IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


<\ 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
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which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 
D 
D 

n 

D 

D 


■0 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  addel  <iuring  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainesi  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


r~~|    Coloured  pages/ 


D 


0 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe< 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu6es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


r~r|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ennutft  the  best  possible  image/ 
Lea  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
ohscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
e'l'C  ont  6t6  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


Irregular  pagination  :   [i]-[xiiUl3]-204,  217-228,  205-216. 229-[368]  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessou^t. 

10X  14X  18X  22;( 


26X 


30X 


y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


laire 
}  details 
(ues  du 
It  modifier 
Iger  une 
B  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  fllmd  fut  reproduit  grfice  A  la 
g6n6roslt6  de: 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  ie 
plus  grand  suin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  l'exemplaire  fllm6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


1/ 
u6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  Impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  filmds  en  commen9ant 
par  Ie  premier  plat  et  en  tarminant  soit  par  la 
dernldre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  ie  second 
plat,  selon  Ie  cas.  Tous  ies  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  fllmis  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustralion  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —»>(  meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
dernldre  image  de  cheque  microfiche  selon  Ie 
cas:  Ie  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  Ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


aire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
fllmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  i  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  Ie  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
lllustrent  la  m6thode. 


by  errata 
led  to 

ent 

une  peiure, 

Fapon  d 


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2 

3 

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F«OM  ITS  8afdiCE  TO  ITS  MOUTH 


COMMIT RCE  OF  THE   LAKES,  ETC. 


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NEW  YORK: 

TOTTED    BY    J.    1    i;  .  i  K..  x.vN J:U:.l., 
i<v.    M',    BEEKMA5    =T-i:E"^.T.  .■ 

1857. 


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pub: 


A    TRIP 


T<IBOirOH  THB 


LAKES  OF  NORTH  AMERICA; 


ESIBBACINO  A  FULL  DESCBIPTIOIT  OF  THX 


ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER, 


^*  e 


i.^r^i. 


c 


TOOSTHEB  WITH  ALL  THB 


PRINCIPAL   PLACES   ON    ITS   BANKS, 


FROM  ITS  SOXmCE  TO  ITS  MOUTH: 


COMMEKCE  OF  THE  LAKES,  ETC. 


FOBMINO  ALTOOETHXX 


^  (Complete  ©uitie 


''•-««•'»  .*w 


^4  i'-i^ii 


»0B  THB  PLXA8UBS  TBATBLKB  AND  BllIff»C»».^,^^ 


I 


Wltl)  JHaps  untt  lBmhtl\i8l)Mtntu, 


NEW  YORK: 

I*' PUBLISHED   BY  J.   DISTURNKLL, 

No.    16    BEEEMAN    STBEET. 

1857. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congresfi,  in  the  year  1857,  by 

JOHN  DISTURNELL, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  DisMc'  3ourt  of  the  United  States  for  the 
Southern  Disfrict  of  New  Yorlc. 


I#     ♦ 


J.  J.  REED. 

rSINTIR  AID  STBBBOTTPIft, 

16Spraoo-St.,N.  Y. 


In  pres< 
Trip  thri 
a  descripti 
to  return  ] 
many  kind 
Mm  in  his 
ation  in  rej 
great  Vn]!: 
affording  a 
importance 
of  America 
source  to  it 
picturesque, 
viewed,  as  a 
St.  Lawreni 
In  the  PI 
tempt  has  b 
cise  and  tri 
now  exist,  a 
est  as  they 
Falls,  or  Tc 
succession  I 
arriving  at 
country, 
jscts  of  intJ 
spend  some[ 
inoludetl  a 
son  could 

Lake  Sup] 
be  easily  rej 


PREFACE. 


In  presenting  to  the  public  the  present  volume,  entitled  **  A 
Trip  through  the  Lakes  of  North  America,"  embracing 
a  description  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  etc. ,  the  compiler  wishes 
to  return  his  sincere  Ihanks  for  the  liberal  patronage  and  the 
many  kind  favors  received  from  those  who  have  doubly  assisted 
him  in  his  labors,  by  contributing  reliable  and  useful  inform- 
ation in  regard  to  the  many  interesting  localities  in  which  the 
great  Vnlby  cf  the  Lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  abounds— 
aifording  altogether  many  new  and  interesting  facts  of  'great 
importance  to  the  Tourist  who  m&j  wish  to  visit  the  Inland  Seas 
of  America,  or  the  noble  St.  Lawrence,  at  any  point  from  its 
source  to  its  mouth — the  tour  being  one  of  the  most  healthy, 
picturesque,  and  wonderful  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  when 
viewed,  as  a  whole,  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence. 

In  the  arrangement  and  compilation  of  this  work  every  at- 
tempt has  been  made  to  render  the  information  it  contains  con- 
cise and  truthful — taking  up  popular  lines  of  travel  as  they 
now  exist,  and  faithfully  describing  places  and  objects  of  inter- 
est as  they  occur  on  the  route.  We  thus  start  from  Niagara 
Falls,  or  Toronto,  situated  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  describe  in 
succession  Lake  Simcoe,  the  Georgian  Bay  and  North  Channel, 
arriving  at  Saut  Ste  Marie,  the  gateway  of  the  Lake  Superior 
country.  Here,  among  the  Mineral  Regions,  may  be  found  ob- 
jects of  interest  sufEicient  to  induce  the  intelligent  traveler  to 
spend  some  weeks  or  months ;  and  if,  added  to  this,  should  be 
inoluded  a  Trip  to  the  Upper  Mississippi  Valley,  an  entire  sea- 
son could  be  profitably  employed. 

Lake  Superior,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  many  travelers,  can  now 
be  easily  reached  by  lines  of  steamers  starting  from  Chicago, 

1* 


vi 


PREFACE. 


and  running  through  Lake  Michigan  and  the  Straits  of  Mack- 
inac ;  also,  from  Buffalo,  Cleveland,  and  Detroit,  passing  through 
Lakes  St.  Clair  and  Huron  to  the  St.  Mary's  River.  All  these 
routes  are  fully  described,  in  connection  with  the  CoUingvrood 
route,  affording  altogether  ample  and  cheap  opportunities  to 
visit  every  portion  of  the  Upper  Lakes  and  their  adjacent  shores. 

Lakes  Erie,  Ontario,  and  Champlain,  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  with  its  principal  tributaries,  are  alsd  faithfully  described, 
together  with  the  Rapids,  Falls,  Islands,  and  objects  of  interest 
along  their  shores — including  the  Steai^boat  Routes,  with  a 
description  of  the  various  Cities,  Villages,  and  principal  Land- 
ings from  Lake  Superior  to  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  v.: 
its  entrance  into  the  Gulf— thus  forming  a  complete  Travel- 
er's Guide  for  the  seekers  of  health  or  pleasure,  as  well  as  for 
the  emigrant  or  man  of  business. 

The  great  changes  and  improvements  constantly  going  on  in 
the  United  States^  and  Canada  render  this  kind  of  compilation 
both  laborious  and  expensive  ;  therefore  the  productions  of 
original  authors  ought  to  be  protected  by  public  opinion  and 
favor,  as  well  as  by  the  laws  of  the  land ;  but  tlie  latter,  un- 
fortunately, are  often  found  insufficient. 

In  the  compilation  of  a  number  of  the  Guide  Books  and  geo- 
graphical Works  now  before  the  American  public,  many  bear- 
ing the  names  of  publishers,  instead  of  the  authors,  great  in- 
justice has  been  done  to  the  faithful  compiler,  or  author,  by 
trespassing  upon  their  copyrights.  A  noted  instance  of  this 
sort  occurred  a  few  years  since,  in  the  publication  of  an 
**  American  Guide  Book,  or  Appleton*8  Hand-Book  through 
the  United  States.''*  This  work  was  an  acknowledged  infringe- 
ment of  the  "  Picturesque  Tourist,"  edited  by  0.  L.  Holley, 
Esq. ,  and  issued,  in  1844,  by  the  present  compiler.  Since  the 
above  period  two  or  three  similar  works  have  been  issued,  with 
the  names  of  the  publishers  conspicuously  attached  to  the  title, 
although  edited,  or  compiled,  by  persons  of  doubtful  authority, 
and  almost  entirely  unknown  to  the  public.  J.  D 

Now  YoBK,  May^  1357. 


Table  or  Dit 
Route  from 
Route  from  ] 
Route  from  '. 
Route  from  { 
Route  from  J 
Superioi 

Railroad  Roi] 

AROUND    La 

New  Market 
Lake  Simci 
Hawkstone— 
Toronto  and  ( 

Trip  from  Ori 
ids  and  Falls- 
Bay — Innura< 

Trip  from  Coi 
Sound — Lone 
Cloche  Moun 
ning— Little  ( 
Drummond  Is 
Island,  etc. 

Trip  through 
Manitoulin— 
Saut  Ste  Mar 

Trip  from  Coi 

CAGO,  LTC- 

ron— Straits 
Green  Bay — J 
Lac — Lake 

Trip  from  Sai 
Lake  Super] 
Fish  Point— I 
Iron  Region- 
Portage  LakI 
Harbor —  Eaj 
Pointe — Bayl 


CONTENTS. 


Page 
Table  of  Distances,  etc. 

Koute  from  New  York  to  Montreal,  Canada 13 

Route  from  New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  etc 14 

Route  from  Toronto  to  Collingwood  and  Saut  Ste  Marie. .  16 

Route  from  Saut  Hte  Marie  to  Superior  City,  Wis 16 

Route  from  New  York  to  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  via  Lake 

Superior 16 

RaiLiRoad  Route  from  Toronto  to  Collixgwood,  and  Trip 
AROUND  Lake  Simcoe.  —  Toronto — Thornhill— Aurora— 
New  Market — Holland  Landing — Bradford — Bell  Ewart — 
Lake  Simcoe  —  Be.averton  —  Atherly  —  Orillia  —  Rama  — 
Hawkstone—  Barrie —  Collingwood —  Nottawassaga  Bay — 
Toronto  and  Georgian  Bay  Canal Page  17-26 

Trip  from  Orillia  to  Georgian  Bay. — Severn  River — Rap- 
ids and  Falls—  Penetanguishene — Christian  Island — Georgian 
and      I       Bay — Innumerable  Islands— French  River 27-82 

un-  I  Trip  from  Collingwood  to  the  Saut  Ste  Marie. — Owen's 
Sound — Lonely  Island — Squaw  Island — Smyth's  Bay — La 
Cloche  Mountains  —  She-ba-wa-nah-ning —  Man-i-tou-wah- 
ning — Little  Current— Clapperton  Island — Cockburn  Island — 
Drummond  Island — Bruce  M  ines — Campement  D'Ours — Sugar 
Island,  etc 83-37 

Trip  through  Georgian  Bay  and  North  Channel. — Great 
Manitoulin— Indians— Wequamekong — St.  Joseph's  Island — 
Saut  Ste  Marie — Ship  Canal — Upper  Lake  Country . . .  38-49 

Trip  from  Collingwood  to  Mackinac,  Green  Bay,  Chi- 
cago, ETC. — Yeo  Island  and  Fitzwilliam  Island— Lake  Hu- 
ron— Straits  of  Mackinac — Mackinac — Potawatomee  Island— 
Green  Bay — Astor — Appleton — Neenah — Oshkosh — Fond  du 
Lac — Lake  Winnebago 60-66 

Trip  from  Saut  Ste  Marie  to  the  Different  Portm  on 
Lake  Superior. — Iroquois  Point — Tequamenon  Bay — ^White 
Fish  Point — Pictured  Rocks— Grand  Island— Marquette — 
Iron  Region — Stanard's  Rock — L'Ance — Portage  Entry — 
Portage  Lake — Keweenaw  Point — Copper  Harbor— Agate 
Harbor — Eacle  Harbor —Ontonagon —Copper  Region — La 
Pointe — Bayfield — Ashland — Superior  City— Fond  du  Lao— 


I  h' 


m  mt     ^  I    t    t 


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vni 


CONTENTS. 


I  1 


.Vi 


St.  Louie  R'lTor — Encampment— Grand  Portage— Pigeon  Bay 
and  River— Isle  floyalo — Pie  Island— Fort  William— Karain- 
iHtoquoi  River — Noopigon  Bay  and  River Pago  67-82 

Red  Riveh  of  thk  North. — Pembina,  etc 83,  84 

IlirpMox  Bay  Company. — Charter  and  Territory — Hudson 
Bay 85-91 

North  Shork,  Lake  Superior. — Ste  Ignace  Island — Slate 
Inlands— Pic  Island  and  River — Michipicotcn  Island,  Harbor, 
and  River — Caribou  Island — Grand  Pleasure  £xcursion  92, 93 

Geology  of  L\ke  Superior  Country 94 

Fihheries  of  Lake  Superior DS,  96 

Chicago. — Railroads— Progress  of  Chicago,  etc 97-100 

J*ort«  of  Lake  Michigan,  East  and  South  Shores. — Mich- 
igan City — New  Buffalo — St.  Joseph — St.  Joseph  River — 
Niles,  etc 101-102 

Trip  from  Chicago  to  Mackinac  and  Saut  Ste  Marie. — 
Lake  Michigan — Waukegan — Kenosha — Racine — Milwaukee 
— Port  Washington— Sheboygan — Manitouwoc — ^Two  Rivers 
— Kewaunee— Little  and  Great  Manitou  Islands — Fox  Isl- 
ands— Great  and  Little  Beaver  Islands — Garden  and  Hog 
Islands — Mackinac,  Town,  Fortress,  and  Island — Bois  Blanc 
Island — Point  De  Tour — Drummond  Island— St.  Joseph  Isl- 
and—Lime Island — Mud  Lake — Sugar  Island — Nebish  Rap- 
ids— Lake  George — Church's  Landing — Garden  River  Settle- 
ment—St. Mary's  River 103-117 

Sunday  on  Lake  Huron 118,  119 

Table  of  Distances. 
Route  from  Chicago  to  Mackinac  and  Saut  Ste  Marie. . .  120 
Route  from  Saut  Ste  Marie  to  Detroit 121 

Trip  from  Detroit  to  Mackinac  and  Saut  Ste  Marie. — 
Lake  St.  Clair — Mt.  Clemens — Chatham — Algonao — New- 
port-*-St.  Clair — Port  Sarnia— Port  Huron — Fort  Gratiot — 
Point  Edward — Goderich — Saugeen — Lake  Huron — Forrest- 
ville — Saginaw  Bay — Saginaw  City — Thunder  Bay — Presque 
Isle— Mackinac,  etc 122-127 

Bats  and  Hivers,  etc.,  of  Lower  Peninsula  of  Michigan. 
— Lumber — Climate — Soil — Cheboygan  River — Grand  Trav- 
erse Bay — River  Anx  Bees  Sceis — Beaver  Islands — Manistee 
River — P6re  Marquette  River — White  River — Muskegon  River 
— Newaygo— Grand  Haven— Grand  Rapids — Grand  River 
Pineries 128-133 

Detroit. —  Railroads  —  Detroit  River —  Islands — Fisheries- 
Steamboat  Routes,  etc 134-140 


Steamboat 
andotte — 1 
— Maumee 

Trip   from 
Port  Dove; 
—Point  P 
herstburg- 
sor — Detroi 

Steamers  B 

Railroad  R 
Detroit,  v 
sion  Bridg< 
— Paris— \^ 

Buffalo  to  ( 
—Black  R< 
Stratford — ( 

Table  of  Die 

Trip  from  I 
etc. — Stur^ 
aut  —  Ashtii 
Black  River 
ands — Put-i 

Railroad  Ro 
Erie  Canals 

Opening  of  1 

Buffalo. — Ti 

Trip  from  I 

Erie— Huroi 
First  Vessei 

Navigation 

Magnitude 
Coast  Line 
Tributaries 

Extent  of  L 
List  of  Stea 
Proposed  Shi 

I'AKE   AND  0< 

Commerce  oi 


CONTENTS. 


Steamboat  Routes  from  Detroit  to  Toledo,  etc. — Wy- 
andotte— Trenton — Monroe — Sandusky — Toledo— Perrysburg 
— Maumee  City Page  141-141 

Trip  from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  direct. — Long  Point- 
Port  Dover— Port  Burwell  — Port  Stanley — Point  aux  ^  .iis 
— Point  Pel6e — Point  Pelee  Island — Detroit  River— Am- 
herstburg —  Fort  Maiden— Brownstown —  Sandwich — W ind- 
Bor— Detroit 145-148 

Steamers  Running  from  Buffalo  to  Different  Portm. 
140 

Railroad  Route  from  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  to 
Detroit,  via  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada. — Suspen- 
sion Bridge— Thorold — St.  Catherine's — Hamilton — Dundas 
— ^Paris — Woodstock — London — Chatham — Windsor.  150-162 

Buffalo  to  Goderich,  via  Buffalo  and  Lake  Huron  Railway. 
— Black  Rock — Fort  Erie — Dunnville— Brantford — Paris- 
Stratford— Goderich 163-165 

Table  of  Distances — from  Buffalo  to  Toledo,  etc 166 

Trip  from  Buffalo  to  Cleveland,  Sandusky,  Toledo, 
ETC. — Sturgeon  Point — Dunkirk— Barcelona — Erie — Conne- 
aut  —  Ashtabula  —  Fairport  —  Painesville  —  Cleveland  — 
Black  River — Vermilion — Huron — Kelley*8  Island — Bass  Isl- 
ands—Put-in  Bay — Naval  Battle  on  Lake  Erie. . . .  157-162 

Railroad  Route  around  Lake  Erie. — Ohio  River  and  Lake 
Erie  Canals 163 

Opening  of  Navioatioit  on  Lake  Erie,  etc 164 

Buffalo. — Trade  and  Commerce 166-170 

Trip  from  Buffalo  to  Mackinac,  Chicago,  etc. — Lake 
Erie— Huron,  etc.  171, 172 

First  Vessel  which  Navigated  the  Upper  Lakes.— 
Navigation  of  the  Lakes 173-179 

Magnitude  of  the  Lakes 180, 181 

Coast  Line  of  the  Great  Lakes 182 

Tributaries  of  the  Lakes  and  St.  Lawrence  River 

183 

Extent  of  Lake  and  River  Navigation,  etc 184 

List  of  Steamers  Built  on  Lake  Erie,  etc.  . . .   185-188 
Proposed  Ship  Canal. — Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Michigan.  189, 190 

Lake  and  Ocean  Navigation 191, 192 

Commerce  of  the  Lakes 193-198 


■'0. 


CONTENTS. 


Buffalo  to  Niagara  Falls,  Toronto,  etc. — Port  Erie- 
Grand  Island — Navy  Island— Chippewa— Falls  of  Niagara- 
Clifton —  Queenston  —  Brock's  Monument — Niagara  —  Fort 
George Page  201-206 

lAOARA  BivER.— Its  Bapids,  Falls,  Islands,  and  Bomantio 
Scenery — Grand  Island — Tonawanda- -Iris,  or  Goat  Island. 
206-210 

Cataract  or  Niagara. — American  Fall— Canadian,  or  Horse 
Shoe  Fall — Suspension  Bridge— Whirlpool  and  Bapids— Maid 
of  the  Mist — ^Niagara  Falls  Village — Lewiston — ^Youngstown. 
211-218 

Lake  Ontario. — Beautiful  Mirage — ^Boute,  etc 219, 220 

Steamboat  Boutes. — Lake  Ontario  and  Biver  St.  Lawrence 
Steamers 221, 222 

Trii  from  Lewiston  to  Oswego,  Kingston,  and  Ogdens- 
BURGH. — Fort  Niagara — Charlotte,  or  Port  Genesee — Gene- 
see Biver — Great  Sodua  Bay— Little  Sodus  Bay — Oswego 
225-230 

Bailroad  and  Steamboat  Boute  from  Syracuse  to  Nia- 
gara Falls,  via  Oswego , 231 

Oswego  to  Kingston,  Ogdensburgh,  etc. — Port  Ontario — 
Salmcn  Biver — Sacket's  Harbor — Black  Biver — Chaumont 
Bay — Cape  Vincent — Clayton,  or  French  Creek — Alexandria 
Bay— WelPs  Island— Morristown— Ogdensburgh. . .  232-236 

Trip  from  Niagara  and  Hamilton  to  Toronto  and 
Kingston,  Canada. — Port  Dalhousie — Welland  Canal — St. 
Catherine's— Hamilton — Oakville— Port  Credit — Toronto 
— Oshawa— Port  Hope — Cobourg — Duck  Island—Amherst 
Island — Kingston 237-246 

Kingston  to  Bellevil^^e  and  Port  Trenton. — Bay  of 
Quinte —  Fredericksburg — Picton — Belleville — Port  Trenton 
—River  Trent— Rice  Lake 247-249 

List  of  American  and  British  Steamers 250-253 

Canals  of  Canada 254 

Trip  from  Kingston  to  Montreal. — ^Thousand  Islands- 
Wolfe,  or  Grand  Island — Gage  Island — Howe  Island— Carl- 
ton Island— Grindstone  Island — Admiralty  Islands — Amateur 
IsV^nds  —  Brockville  —  Prescott  —  Ogdensburgh  —  Windmill 
Point— Gallop  Bapids — Matilda — Waddington — Williamsburg 
—Louisville— Long  Saut  Rapids — Cornwall — St.  Regis — Lake 
St.  Francis— Coteau  du  Lac — Cedar  Bupids — Beauhamois— 
Caughnawaga— La  Chine  Bapids — St.  Lawrence  River  and 
Rapids 255-268 


CONTENTS. 


zi 


Ene— 
jara — 
-Fort 
[)l-205 

mantic 
Island. 
06-210 

r  Horse 
—Maid 
rstown. 
11-218 

19, 220 

iwrence 
>21,222 

GDENS- 

— Gene- 

0»^EGO 

225-230 

TO  NlA- 

...  231 

ntario — 

haomont 

exandria 

232-236 

rTO    AND 

Einal — fit. 

Toronto 

-Amherst 

237-246 

—Bay  of 
Trenton 

.  247-249 

.  250-253 

254 

Islands— 
,nd— Carl- 
-  Amateur 
.  Windmill 
lliamsburg 
)gis — Lake 
imamois— 
River  and 
.  255-268 


Railroad  Route  from  Montreal  to  Toronto,  via  Grand 
Trunk  Railway — St.  Anne's— Isle  Perot— Vaudreuil — Corn- 
wall, etc Page  269-271 

MoNiREAL. — Grand  Trunk  Railway,  etc 272-277 

Trip  from  Montreal  to  Ottawa  City,  etc. — St.  Anne's — 
Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains — Carillon — Point  Fortune — Gren- 
ville — Rideau  Falls — Chaudiere  Falls  -City  of  Ottawa — Ayl- 
mer — Amprior-     embroke 278-282 

Ottawa  River. — Chaudiere  Falls,  etc 283-288 

Lake  George. — Caldwell — Falls  of  Ticonderoga,  etc.  289-292 

Lake  Champlain. — Missisquoi  Bay,  etc 293-295 

Li8T  OF  Steamers  running  on  Lake  Champlain — ^Table  of 
Distances— Whitehall,  etc 296-298 

Trtp  from  Whttehall  to  Rouse's  Point,  etc. — Ticonde- 
roga— Crown  Point — Port  Henry — Westport — Fort  Cassin — 
Split  Rock — Essex — Burlington — Port  Kent — Keeseville — 
Au  Sable  River — Port  Jackson — Platts  burgh — Battle  of 
Plattsburgh — Cumberland  Head — Chazy— Isle  au  Motte — 
Alburgh—  Highgate  Springs — Missisquoi  Bay — Rouse's  Point 
—St.  John's,  Canada— Chambly  Canal 299-322 

Table  of  Distances. — Montreal  to  Albany,  Portland,  Quebec, 
Toronto,  etc 323, 324 

Trip  from  Montreal  to  Quebec— Longueuil — Rapids  of 
St.  Mary— Varennes — Sorel,  or  William  Henry — Lake  St, 
Peter  —  Three  Rivers  —  Richelieu  Rapids  —  Cape  Rouge- 
Wolfe's  Cove 325-32Q 

QuEREC. — The  Citadel — Plains  of  Abraham — Wolfe's  Monu- 
ment— Gen.  Montgomery 329-338 

Vicinity  of  Quebec. — Cape  Rouge — ^Falls  of  Lorette — Falls 
of  Montmorenci— Falls  of  St.  Anne— Lake  St.  Charles- 
Point  Levi— Chaudiere  Falls 339-S42 

Trip  from  Quebec  to  the  Saguenav  River,  etc. — Island 
of  Orleans  —St.  Patrick's  Hole — Madam  Island — Cape  Tour- 
ment — Grosse  Island — St.  Thomas— Crane  Island — Isle  aux 
Coudres- Murray  Bay— Kamouraska — Red  Island— River  du 
Loup — KiJtouna— Tadousac 843-351 

Saguenay  River. — Ttite  du  Boule — St.  Louis  Island— Eter- 
nity Point  and  Cape  Trinity— Tableau — Ha-Ha,  or  Great 
Bay— Chicoutimi—Lake  St.  John 852-367 

Trip  to  Murray  Bay,  Tadousac,  Ha-Ha  Bay,  etc.  858-360 

Anticosti. — Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  etc 861-863 

Value  of  Moneys,  etc 864 

Advsrtibements 865-406 


i 


' 


J  , 


<  I 


.1     ! 
t   I 


^'1 


fist  0f  (&mMlh\mnti. 

Page. 

1.  Frontispiece. — Cedar  Rapids— St.  Lawrence  River.      2 

2.  Vignette. — Horse  Shoe  Fall— Niagara 17 

3.  Saut  Stb  Marie — from  American  side ...  46 

4.  The  Chapel— Pictured  Rocks 66 

5.  Island  of  Mackinac Ill 

6.  Arched  Rock — Ma^^kinac 112 

7.  Brock's  Monument — Queenston  Heights 204 

8.  Rapids  in  Niagara  River,  above  American  FalL . . .  206 

9.  American  Fall,  by  moonlight 211 

10.  Map  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  surrounding  Country . . .  219 

11.  Fort  Niagara — Mouth  Niagara  River 221 

12.  Steamboat  Landing,  Burlington,  Tt 807 

13.  Cape  Trinity  and  Point  Eternity,  Sagueney  River  344 

14.  Map  and  Profile  of  the  Valley  of  the  St.  Law- 

rence River  and  Lake  Country. 


RAII 

STEAMBOAT  . 

Stations,  eU 
NEW  YORl 
Albany,  {I 
Troy,  {Sta 
Saratoga  Sp 
Whitehall,  y 
Ticonderoga 
Burlingto 
Plattsburgh 
Rouse's  Poii 
St.  John's,  ( 
MONTREAl 

Note.— Thi 
excursions  dui 
plain,  a  most  1 
by  romantic  a 

BAILEOAD  B 
] 

Stations,  etc 
NEW  YORI 
Poughkeepsi 
Albany . . . 

Tr»jy 

North  Benn 
Rutland  . 
Middlebury 
Burlingto 
Rouse's  Poll 
St.  John's,  ( 
MONTREA] 

Usual  Fai 


Page. 

iver.   2 

•  • 

..  17 

..  46 

•  • 

..  66 

..  Ill 

•  • 

..  112 

•  • 

..  204 

L. 

..  206 

.. » 

..  211 

5^. 

..  219 

•  • 

..  224 

. . 

..  307 

liver  344 

AW- 

RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES. 


STEAMBOAT  AND  ^AILEOAD  BOUTE  FEOM  NEW  YORK  TO 
MONTBEAL,  via  LAKE  GHAMFLAIN. 


Usual  Time. 

H.     M. 


Stations,  etc.  Miles. 

NEW  YORK 0 

Albany,  {Steamer) 145     10  00 

Troy,  {Steamer) 161     10  30 

Saratoga  Springs,  {Railroad)    182     

Whitehall,  vi2a»/road) 223     14  00 


« 


« 


•  •  •  • 


Ticonderoga,       {Steamer). 

BUELINGTON,  Vt. 

Plattsburgh,  N.  Y. 
Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.  **  .... 
St.  John's,  Can.  {Railroad)*. 
MONTREAL,  {Railroad).,. 


247  

300 20  00 

325  

360  24  00 

374  

395  26  00 


Note. — This  line  of  trayel  affords  one  of  the  most  deli^tfulL 
excursions  during  warm  weather — ^passing  through  Lake  Uham- 
plain,  a  most  lovely  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water,  i^urroundedE. 
by  romantic  and  mountainous  scenery. 


BAILEOAD  ROUTE  PBOM  NEW  YOEK  TO  MONTBEAL,  via- 
RUTLAND  AND  BUBLINGTON,  VT. 

Stations,  etc.  MUeis.                           UsnalTjme.. 

NEW  YORK 0  

Poughkeepsie 76  

Albany 144  

Trmy 150  

North  Bennington 182  

Rutland 234  

Mlddlebury 266  10  30> 

BuRUNGTOif  XS.toPlattsb'h)  301  1100 

Rouse's  Point 356  14  O0» 

St.  John's,  C.  E 879  16  00^ 

MONTREAL 400  16  00» 

Usual  Fare  from  New  York  to  Montreal,  $9  to  $10  50. 


2  40 
5  00 

5  16. 

6  80< 
8  30» 


if 


14 


RAILKOAD    AND    STEAMBOAT    ROUTES. 


EAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO 
NIAGARA  FALLS  AND  TORONTO,  0.  W.,  LEAVING 

NEW  YORF*:  AT   6  P.M.  BY  STEAMER. 
Stations,  etc.  MUca.         ^  UBnalTime. 

NEW  YORK 0     

Albany,  {Steamer) 145     12  00 


{( 


<( 


«( 


Schenectady,  (Railroad)  . . . 

Utica, 

Rome, 

Syracuse, 

Rochester,  (*9^  to  Toronto) 

Lockport,         {Railroad) . . . 

Suspension  Bridge,  *^ 

Lewiston, 


<« 


TORONTO,  ( Steamer) 494 


162  13  00 

240  16  00 

264  16  80 

293  18  00 

874  22  46 

430  26  00 

448  26  00 

452  

30  00 


RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO 

OSWEGO,  TORONTO,  ETC.,  LEAVING  NEW  YORK 

AT  6  A.M.  BY  HUDSON  RIVER  RAILROAD. 

Station.,  etc.  MUea.  UsnalTime. 

NEW  YORK 0 

Poughkeepsie,  {Railroad) . 

Hudson, 

Albany, 

Schenectady, 

Utica, 

Rome, 

Syracuse, 

Oswego, 

Lewiston,  ( Steamer  140  m.) . 

TORONTO,  {Steamer  150m.) 

Note. — Passengers  by  continuing  on  by  Railroad  from  Syra- 
cuse, via  Rochester  and  Lockport,  will  arrive  at  Suspension 
Bridge,  448  miles,"'in  sixteen  hours  after  leaving  New  York, 
stop  at  Niagara  Falls  if  desired,  and  reach  Toronto  by  Rail- 
rofibd,  via  Hamilton,  0.  W.,  81  miles  farther;  making  the  total 
distance  from  New  York  to  Toronto  by  Railroad,  via  Suspen- 
Bion  Bridge,  629  miles. 


(( 


(( 


(C 


« 


(( 


If 


€t 


76  

2  40 

116  

144  

162  

4  00 

6  00 

6  00 

240  

8  30 

254  

9  00 

293  

......  10  30 

828  

13  00 

468  

478  

27  00 

il 


RAIL 


RAILROAD  AH 
COLLINC 

Toronto  to 


(Collingwood  to 


Ports,  etc. 
Collingwood  . . 

Cape  Rich , 

Cabot's  Head  . . . 
Lonely  Island. . 
Cape  Smy  th . . . , 
She-ha-vm-nah- 
Man-i-tou-wah-i 
I  Little  Current y 
Great  Manitouli] 
Clapperton  Islan 
Barrio  Island . . . 
Cockburn  Island 
Druromond's  Isli 
Bruce  Mines,  C 
3t.  Joseph  Islanc 
Oampement  D'Oi 
The  Narrows  . . 
Sugar  Island,  M 
Nebish  Rapids  . 

Lake  George 

Church'J  Landii 
Garden  River  Se 
Saut  Stk  Mari 

Steamboat  I 
Including 


RAILROAD   AND   STEAMBOAT   ROUTES. 


15 


RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  PROM  TORONTO  TO 
COLLINGWOOD  AND  BAUT  8TK  MARIE,  MICH. 

Toronto  to  Colli  no  wood  {Railroad  Route)  ^  94  miles. 

Steamboat  Route. 

(Collingwood  to  Saut  Ste  Marie,  Mich.,  passing  through  Qeor- 
gian  Bay  and  North  Channel.) 

Ports,  etc.                           Miles.  Ports,  etc.                            Miles. 

Collingwood 0    Saut  Ste  Marie 0 

Cape  Ilich 80    Sugar  Island 4 

Cabot's  Head 80    Garden  Riyer  Set 10 

Lonely  Island 100    Churches  Landing 14 

Cape  Smyth 125    Lake  George 20 

She-ba-vm-nah-ning . . . .  145    Nebish  Rapids 24 


170 


Man-i-tou-wah-ning  (25  m.) 
Little  Current,  > 

Great  Manitoulin  Is.  ) 

Clapperton  Island 190 

Barrie  Island 220 

Cockburn  Island 255 

Druromond's  Island,  Mich.  270 


St.  Joseph  Island 26 

The  Narrows 35 

Campement  D'Ours  Is 88 

Bruce  Mines 50 

Drummond's  Island,  Mich.  70 

Cockburn  Island,  C.  W. . .  86 

Barrie  Island 120 


Bruce  Mines,  C.  W.....  290    Clapperton  Island 150 

3t.  Joseph  Island 296  Little  Current,          ^          _-. 

Campement  D'Ours  Is 302  Great  Manitoulin  Is.  > 

The  Narrows 305  Man-i-tou-wah-ning(25m.) 

Sugar  Island,  Mich 315     She^ha-wa-nah-ning 195 

Nebish  Rapids •. . . .  316    Cape  Smyth 215 

Lake  George 320    Lonely  Island 240 

Church'd  Landins 326    Cabot's  Head 260 

Garden  River  Set 330    Cape  Rich. 810 

Saut  Ste  Marie 340    Collingwood 340 

Steamboat  Fare,  $8  60.  Usual  Time,  86  hours. 
Including  meals. 

Note.— Landings  in  RaUo, 


I  I 


16 


RAILROAU    AND    STEAMBOAT    ROUTES. 


|:M 


I   '- 


■  1 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  8AUT  STE  MARIE  TO  SUPEKIOR 
CITY,  Wia.,  PASSINO  ALONG  THE  SOUTH  SHORE  OF 

LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Saut  Ste  Marie 0 

Point  Iroquois 15 

White  Fish  Point 40 

Point  au  Sable 90 

Pictured  Rocks 110 

Grand  Island 125 

Marquette,  (Fare,  $6.). .  170 

Manitou  Island 235 

Copper  Harbor 250 

Eagle  Harbor. 266 

Eagle  River 276 

Ontonagon^  (Fare,  $9.)  .  836 
La  Pointe,  (Fare,  $11). .  410 

Bayfield 414 

Point  de  Tour 424 

Superior  CiTYrFare  $13)  494 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Superior  City 0 

Point  de  Tour 70 

Bayfield 80 

La  Pointe 83 

Ontonagon 158 

EagleRiver 218 

Eagle  Harbor 228 

Copper  Harbor 244 

Manitou  Island  .• 269 

Marquette 824 

Grand  Island 369 

Pictured  Rocks 884 

Point  au  Sable 404 

White  Fish  Point 454 

Point  Iroquois 479 

Saut  Ste  Marie 494 


Usual  Time  from  Saut  Ste  Marie  to  Superior  City,  54  hours, 
including  landings. 


ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  THE  FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY, 

via  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 

Stopping  Places.  Total  Miles.  Usual  Time. 

New  York  to  Albany,  by  ( Steamboat)  . .            146  12  hours. 

Albany  to  Niagara  Falls,  (Railroad) 803  448  1  day. 

Niagara  Falls  to  Toronto,  {R.R.  and  St.)    46-494  1^  " 

Toronto  to  CoUingwood,  (Railroad) 94-588  l|  « 

Collingwood  to  Saut  Ste  Marie,  (S^camfttfaO  340-928  8  *< 

Saut  Ste  Marie  to  La  Pointe,  ( Steamboat)  350-1 ,278  4^  « 

La  Pointe  to  Superior  City,  (Steamboat) .  84-1,362  6  «« 

Superior  City  to  Falls  St.  Croix,  (Portage)  120-1,482  8  " 
Falls  St.  Croix  to  milw&ter,  (Steamboat)  30-1,512 

Stillwater  to  St.  Paul,  ( Stage) 18-1,530 

St.  Paul  to  Falls  oJSt.  Anthony,  (Stage)     8-1,538  9  " 

From  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  Dubuque 826  miles. 

*«     Dubuque  to  St.  Louis,  ( Steamboat) 474     " 

Total 800miles. 


KIOR 

►F 

Miles. 

..   0 

..  70 

..  80 

..  83 

..  158 

..  218 

..  228 

..  244 

..  269 

..  824 

. . .  369 

...  884 

...  404 

. . .  454 

...  479 

. . .  494 

4  hours, 


PHONY, 

iial  Time. 

2  hours. 
1  day. 
li" 

3  ** 
4i  " 
6    «« 

8    « 


9 


({ 


26  miles. 
00  miles. 


ATRIP 


TflBOUOH  THE 


LAKES  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  TORONTO  TO  COLLING' 
WOOD,  AND  TRIP  AROUND  LAKE  SIMCOK. 


After  passing  over  the 
^  delightful  and  usually 
smooth  waters  of  Lake  On- 
tario, the  Tourist,  on  ap- 
proaching Toronto,  either 
from  Cape  Vincent,  Os- 
wego, Rochester,  Buffalo, 
or  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  usually  experiences  sensations 
which  incite  him  to  further  travel  and  enjoyment.  From  this 
place  the  tourist  can  proceed  direct  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  by 
railroad  or  steamer,  or  to  Hamilton  and  Detroit  on  the  west — 
while  the  CoUingwood  route  extends  north  through  a  beautiful 
section  of  country. 

2* 


?•   ,  'Ilia 


iF  "-■ 


■*-lfir  —  t^ 


urn 


f  • 


18 


TORONTO    TO    COLLINGWOOD,    ETC. 


I     i 


!      I 


U 


■   It 


!:;;l 


On  landing  at  Toronto  from  American  ports,  it  is  m  ual  for 
thd  c  istom-house  officers  to  question  passengers  in  regard  to  the 
contents  of  their  baggage,  which  if  it  consists  of  nothing  but 
common  wearing  apparel,  is  passed  ^dthout  further  delay,  and 
the  porters  take  charge  of  the  samo,  delivering  the  articles  as 
directed.  All  persons,  however,  taking  into  Canada  manufac- 
tured goods,  whether  subject  to  pay  duty  or  otherwise,  are  ex- 
pected to  enter  the  same  at  tht^  custom  house. 

The  hotels  are  principally  situated  on  Front  Street,  facing 
the  bay,  Church  Street,  or  King  Street,  the  latter  being  the 
principal  promenade,  or  Broadway,  of  Toronto,  Yonge  Street 
is  another  principal  thoroughfare,  extending  from  the  Espla- 
nade, Of  water's  edge,  for  many  miles  into  the  interior,  affording 
a  delightful  drive  in  pleasant  weather.  The  attractions  of  this 
th'iiving  city,  in  connection  with  the  beautiful  ba^  and  harbor, 
are  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  For  a  further  de- 
scription of  Toronto,  see  page  240. 

The  railroads  diverging  from  Toronto  are  the  Oniarioy  Sim- 
coe  and  Huron  Railroad^  extending  north  to  Collingwood,  94 
miles;  the  Grand  Trunk  Railnay^  extending  northeast  to 
Montre<il  and  Quebec,  and  west  through  Guelph  to  Port  Sarnia, 
situated  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  and  the  Hamilton  and 
Toronto  Branch  of  the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  run- 
ning from  Clifton  at  the  Suspension  Bridge,  to  Hamilt^jn,  and 
thence  through  to  Windsor,  on  the  Detroit  River.  These  rail- 
r  ;ads,  in  connection  with  the  steamers,  render  Toronto  a  great 
thoroughfare  and  mart  of  commerce  It  now  takes  about 
thirty  hours  to  reach  Toronto  from  New  York ;  five  hours  from 
Buffalo,  and  only  twelve  hours  from  Montreal,  since  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railwiy :  the  favjrite  steamboat 
route  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  consumes  about  twice  as 
much  time.  In  four  hours  more  the  traveler  can  be  landed  at 
Collingwood,  at  the  head  of  Georgian  Bay,  from  whence  steam- 
ers leave  almost  dai^y,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  for 
Mackinac,  Green  Bay,  Chicago,  Saut  Ste  Marie,  and  other  ports 
on  the  Upper  Lakes. 


TORONTO   TO   COLLINOWOOD,   BTO. 


19 


1  for 
0  the 
;  but 
,  and 
es  as 
lUfac- 
ro  ex- 
facing 
ig  the 
Street 
Espla- 
brding 
of  this 
larbor, 
aer  de- 

>,  Sim- 
ood,  94 
least  to 
Sarnia) 
m  and 
ia,  run- 
on,  and 
se  lail- 
a  great 
about 
irs  from 
ho  com- 
eamboat 
twice  as 
tnded  at 
e  steam* 
tion,  for 
ler  ports 


Passenger  trains  leave  Toronto  morning  and  afternoon  for 
Oollingwood,  etc.,  starting  from  the  depot  near  the  corner  of 
Front  and  Bay  Streets.  The  first  objects  of  interest  passed  are 
the  Parliament  House,  University  Building,  Lunatic  Asylum, 
Ihe  Barraoks,  and  Old  Fort,*  the  latter  being  situated  near  the 
water's  edge,  for  the  protection  of  the  bay  and  harbor. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  also  runs  for  two  or  three  miles 
parallel  with  the  Ontario,  Simcoe  and  Huron  Railroad.  The 
farming  land  through  which  the  latter  road  runs  is  very  pro- 
ductiye,  being  in  part  heavily  timbered  with  maple,  birch, 
beech,  oak,  elm,  pine,  and  hemlock.  For  many  miles  there 
seems  to  ha  a  been  a  studied  effort  to  avoid  the  villages  and 
thriving  settlements  lying  west  of  Toronto  on  Yonge  Street  road. 
Thorxhill  Station,  14  miles  from  Toronto,  is  located  four 
miles  west  from  the  village,  which  is  situated  on  Yonge  Street. 
Here  are  extensive  fiouring-mills,  propelled  by  water-power  de- 
rived from  the  river  Don,  flowing  into  Toronto  Bay. 

The  highest  summit  of  the  Ontario,  Simcoe  and  Huron  Rail- 
road, being  700  feet  above  Lake  Ontario,  and  226  feet  above  the 
level  of  Lake  Simcoe,  is  passed  about  25  miles  north  of  Toronto. 
The  highest  grade  ascending  is  sixty  feet  to  the  mile. 

AuROR  ' ,  29  miles  from  Toronto,  is  a  small  village  situated 
on  Yonge  Street,  where  the  morning  trains  usually  meet  on  their 
way  to  and  from  CoUingwood. 

New  Market,  34  miles  from  Toronto,  is  an  old  and  thriving 
town,  surrounded  by  a  fine  section  of  country.  Here  are  sev- 
eral millF*  and  other  manufacturing  establishments,  situated  on 
a  stream  which  passes  through  the  village,  flowing  into  Lake 
Simcoe  on  the  north.  Fruit  of  different  kinds,  of  n-^  quality, 
as  well  as  grain,  is  raised  in  large  quantities  in  ihw  icinity. 
Holland  Landing,  38  miles  north  of  Toronto  uy  railroad,  is 

♦  The  Old  Garrison^  as  it  is  now  called,  is  situated  on  the  lake  shore, 
commanding  the  entrance  to  the  harbor.  On  th^  capture  of  Toronto, 
formerly  called  Little  York,  by  the  American  army  in  1S18,  the  magazine 
cf  the  fort  was  flred  by  the  British  on  their  retreat,  causing  the  death  of 
General  Pikk,  the  American  commander,  and  many  other  valuable  men. 
Long  may  it  be  before  the  scourge  of  war  again  desolates  the  frontier  bor- 
dering  the  waters  of  the  lakes  or  the  St.  Lawrence  Biver. 


20 


TORONTO   TO   COLLINGWOOD,    ETC. 


:iii 


i  li 


i    ^1! 


sdyantageously  situated  on  Holland  River,  which  empties  into 
Lake  Simcoe.  It  contains  an  Episcopal,  Pre8byt<\rian,  and 
Methodist  church;  steam  and  water  power,  grist  and  saw  mills, 
an  extensive  tannery,  a  foundry,  and  about  1,500  inhabit' 
ants,  'he  railway  here  again  intersects  Yonge  Street,  studded 
with  ti.4 .  dwellings,  orchards,  and  farms,  all  the  way  through 
from  Toronto,  86  miles,  bearing  evidence  of  wealth,  intelligence, 
and  comfort,  not  surpassed  by  any  other  section  of  Canada. 

Br  vDroRD,  42  miles  from  Toronto,  is  a  small  village  situated 
near  Lake  Simcoe.  The  afternoon  train  of  cars  meets  at  this 
station  on  its  way  to  and  from  Toronto.  Large  quantities  of 
wheat  and  other  farming  products  are  annually  sent  from  this 
place  to  Toronto,  and  other  markets. 

Belt^  Ewart,  53  miles  from  Toronto,  is  situated  on  Cook's 
Bay,  lying  at  the  south  end  of  Lake  Simcoe.  Here  are  a  con- 
venient steamboat  landing,  several  stores  and  lumber  yards,  and 
a  population  of  some  300  or  400  inhabitants.  The  stumps  and 
decayed  trees  by  which  it  is  surrounded  indicate  that  it  is  of 
recent  origin,  yet  still  the  town-lota  are  held  at  a  high  price, 
showing  that  speculation  is  not  entirely  confined  to  the  Yankees, 
as  the  Americans  are  here  usually  called. 

Baring  the  summer  of  1856  the  author  accepted  an  invita- 
tion to  visit  Lake  Simcoe,  and  take  a  trip  over  its  lovely  waters, 
now  plowed  by  one  of  the  most  comfortable  steamers,  named 
the  J.  C.  Morrison,  in  honor  of  the  President  of  the  Ontario, 
Simcoe  and  Huron  Railroad.  This  pioneer  work  of  Upper 
Canada  was  first  advocated  and  commenced  through  the  untir- 
ing zeal  of  an  enterprising  citizen  of  Toronto,  now  entirely  dis- 
connected with  its  present  management. 

The  running  of  the  trains  on  the  above  road,  and  the  steamer 
on  the  lake,  is  so  arranged  that  pleasure  travelers  can  leave 
Toronto  in  the  morning,  enjoy  a  most  delightful  sail  around 
Lake  Simcoe,  and  return  to  Toronto  in  the  evening,  or  proceed 
cmward  toward  CoUingwood,  reaching  the  latter  place  in  ample 
time  for  the  steamer  for  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  which  usually 
leaves  soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  evening  train. 


long  from  north 
picturesque  islai 
ened  by  the  eflFe 
autumn  months. 
Superior  about 
the  Severn  Rivei 

On  leaving  th 
runs  between  £ 
inhabited  by  In( 
idle  life,  neglecti 
certain  employm 

Jack.son*8  Po 
landing  usually 
resque  spot,  as 
Tenient  steamboa 

Georgiana  Is 
on  tJie  east,  near 
ifiland,  at  present 

Beaverton,  X 
from  Orillia,  is  a 
habitants.  Here 
A  railroad,  to  be 
north  shore  of  Li 


LlKE  SIMCOK. 


21 


'-'«Cr 


fc^^-^^*5^ij^ 


.if^i^JK 


ff,5-  .  -^  ■  ^/_, 


The  beautiful  steamer  J.  C.  Morrison  daily 
leayee  Bell  Ewart,  on  the  arrival  of  the  morning 
train  from  Toronto,  making  a  trip  around  Lake 
SiMCOE,  a  most  lovely  and  pure  sheet  of  water, 
elevated  474  feet  above  Lake  Ontario  and  184 
feet  above  Lake  Huron.  It  is  about  40  miles 
long  from  north  to  south,  and  25  miles  wide,  embosoming  several 
picturesque  islands,  the  beauties  of  which  are  very  much  height- 
ened by  the  effects  of  light  and  shade  during  the  summer  and 
autumn  months.  This  romantic  lake  is  elevated  above  Lake 
Superior  about  100  feet;  its  surplus  waters  running  through 
the  Severn  River  into  Georgian  Bay  or  Lake  Huron, 

On  leaving  the  landing  in  Cr  Vs  Bay,  the  steamer  usually 
runs  between  Bird  and  Snake  Islands,  both  being  owned  and 
inhabited  by  Indians  of  the  Mohawk  tribe,  who  here  lead  an 
idle  life,  neglecting  the  noble  pursuit  of  agriculture  for  the  less 
certain  employment  of  fishing  and  hunting. 

Jackson's  Point,  twelve  miles  from  Bell  Bwart,  is  the  first 
landing  usually  made  on  the  upward  trip.  This  is  a  pictu- 
resque spot,  as  yet  unimproved,  although  affording  a  con- 
venient steamboat  landing. 

Georgiana  Island,  eight  miles  farther,  is  next  passed,  lying 
on  tlie  east,  near  the  main  shore.  This  is  a  large  and  fertile 
island,  at  present  unimproved. 

Beaverton,  29  miles  from  Bell  Ewart  and  21  miles  distant 
from  Orillia,  is  a  flourishing  village,  containing  about  1,000  in- 
habitants. Here  is  a  long  pier  and  good  steamboat  landing. 
A  railroad,  to  be  built,  extending  from  Port  Hope,  lying  on  the 
north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  to  Lake  Simcoe,  will  terminate  at 


I 


l\ 


LAKE    8IMOOX. 


ii,  \  il 


1 


ii 

'  i  '!  I' 


tho  Ooorgian 

rapida  and  fall 

to  be  found  goi 

ample  amusem 

On  returnin 

direction  along 

sion  of  picture&N 

Hawkstopti: 

where  building 

summer  visitor 

direct  for  Bell  ] 

at  the  head  of  ti 


Deaverton,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  fine  section  of  agricaltural 
lands,  producing  wheat  and  other  kinds  of  grain  of  good  quality. 

Thora  Iblaitd  is  next  passed  on  the  west,  and  Point  Mora 
on  the  right,  running  in  a  N.W.  direction  toward  the  foot  of  the 
lake,  which  here  increases  in  beauty. 

Qrape  Island,  lying  near  the  foot  of  the  lake,  is  a  beautiful 
small  uninhabited  island ;  and  near  by  on  the  west  lies  Chief 
Jtlandf  occupied  by  Indians.  Here  the  islands  and  headlands 
appear  to  great  advantage,  btsing  clothed  with  rich  foliage, 
varied  in  tint  by  every  passing  cloud. 

Atherly,  18  miles  from  Beaverton,  is  a  steamboat  landing 
and  small  settlement  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Simcoe.  Half  a  mile 
below  Atherly  the  steamer  passes  through  a  narrow  channel  I  eight  miles  froi 
and  draw-bridge  into  Lake  Couchiehing,  or  Seoern  RiveTf  here  I  soon  enters  Coc 
some  three  or  four  miles  wide,  containing  several  beautiful  I  iniles  south  of  0: 
small  islands,  where  may  usually  be  seen  the  Indians  in  bark  I  in  time  to  take  i 
canoes  gliding  from  island  to  island,  seeming  in  the  distance  to  I  thus  affording  tl 
resemble  fairies  of  by -gone  days.  The  islands  may  be  thus  |  of  the  most  beau 
described : 

At  Lefroy,  0 

|52  miles  from  To 

Barrie  Stat 

Orillia,  Simcoe  Co.,  C.  W.,  is  pleasantly  situated  threolcoUinirwood  is  s 
miles  beyond  Atherly  by  steamboat  route.     This  is  a  summer  I jjjg  ^^^^  of  Barr 
resort  for  invalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure.    The  village  con-  L  ^oad  runninir  r 
tains  two  churches,  three  hotels,  and  several  boarding-houses  lof^jj^  ^^^  ^    , 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors.      Population  about  800.1    Barrie    the 


"  All  the  fairy  crowds 
Of  Islanda,  which  together  lie, 
As  quietly  as  the  spots  of  skv, 
Among  the  evening  clouds." 


This  place  is  destined  no  doubt  to  become  a  favorite  and  fashion 
able  resort,  being  easily  reached  from  Toronto  or  CoUingwood. 
Rama  is  the  name  of  an  Indian  village  situated  across  the 


on  the  northwesi 
Besides  the  count, 
m  Episcopal,  Pr 


lake  from  Orillia,  about  four  miles  distant.     The  Indians  may  ehurch  •  also  two 


here  be  seen  engaged  in  fishing,  or  paddling  from  place  to  place, 
many  of  them  leading  a  roving  and  idle  life,  no  doubt  being 
destined  soon  to  fade  away  as  the  falling  leaf  of  autumn. 

The  Rapids  or  Falls  commence  in  the  Severn  River  some 
seven  or  eight  miles  below  Orillia,  which  stream  empties  int< 


tains  about  1,600 
lultural  country, 
^shene,  32  miles 
After  leaving  B 
ailroad  runs  in 


TORONTO   TO   COLLINGWOOD,    ETC. 


28 


iltural 
uality. 
i  Mora 
;  of  the 


iho  Georgian  Bay  near  Penotanguiflhene,  after  a  succession  of 
rapids  and  falls  of  184  feet  descent.  In  the  lake  and  riror  are 
to  be  found  good  fishing,  and  game  of  different  kinds,  affording 
ample  amusement  to  the  angler  and  sportsman. 

On  returning  from  Orillia,  the  steamer  runs  in  a  southerly 
direction  along  the  west  shore  of  the  lake,  presenting  a  succes- 
sion of  picturesque  headlands,  and  most  beautiful  water  scenery. 
Hawkbtone,  15  miles  south  of  Orillia,  is  a  new  settlement, 
where  buildings  are  being  erected  for  the  accommodation  of 
summer  visitors.  On  leaving  Hawkstone  the  steamer  runs 
direct  for  Bell  Ewart,  passing  the  mouth  of  Kempenfeldt  Bay, 
at  the  head  of  which  lies  the  town  of  Barrie.  Big  Bay  Point, 
channel  I  eight  miles  from  Hawkstone,  is  next  passed,  and  the  steamer 
yer,  here  I  soon  enters  Cook's  Bay,  on  which  is  situated  Bell  Ewart,  83 
>eautiful  I  miles 'south  of  Orillia.  The  steamer  usually  arrives  at  5}  p.m., 
in  bark  in  time  to  take  the  afternoon  cars  for  CoUingwood  or  Toronto, 
stance  to  thus  affording  the  pleasure  traveler  an  opportunity  to  visit  one 
be  thus    of  the  most  beautiful  lakes  of  Canada. 


autiful 
\  Chief 
idlands 
foliage, 

landing 
f  a  mile 


At  Lefroy,  one  mile  from  Bell  Ewart  by  branch  road,  and 
52  miles  from  Toronto,  the  journey  by  railrAl  is  resumed. 
Barrie  Station,  63  miles  from  Toronto  and  31  miles  from 

»d  three  I  CoUingwood,  is  situated  on  Kempenfeldt  Bay,  directly  opposite 
summer  I  the  town  of  Barrie,  about  one  mile  distant,  which  is  reached  by 

[age  con- 1|^  road  running  round  the  head  of  the  bay,  affording  a  fine  view 

ig-houseslof  the  town  and  surrounding  country. 

)ut  800.1    Barrie,  the  capital  of  Simcoe  Co.,  is  delightfully  situated 
fashioQ-|oii  the  northwest  shore  of  Kempenfeldt  Bay  of  Lake  Simcoe. 

|ngwood.  iBesides  the  county  buildings  there  is  a  handsome  market-house, 
;ross  tholm  Episcopal,  Presbyterian,  Methodist,  and  Roman  Catholic 

[ians  ittayljhurch ;  also,  two  or  three  well-kept  hotels.    The  village  con- 
to  place.iains  about  1,500  inhabitants,  being  surrounded  by  a  fine  agri- 
ibt  beinglmltural  country.    A  stage  road  runs  from  Barrie  to  Penetan- 
m.  kushene,  32  miles ;  also,  to  Orillia,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake. 

Iver  Bomel  After  leaving  Barrie  Station,  the  Ontario,  Simcoe  and  Huron 
>ties  intokailroad  runs  in  a  northwest  direction  to  CoUingwood,  passing 


it 


84 


TORONTO   TO   COLLI  NO  WOOD,   KTO. 


1 1   'iilijfii 


through  a  leyel  section  of  country,  abounding  in  lumber  of  dif- 
ferent kinds ;  there  being  several  large  lumber  establishments 
on  the  line  of  the  road. 

CoLLiNowooD,  94  miles  north  from  Toronto,  is  most  advanta- 
geously situated  near  the  head  of  Nottawassaga  Bay,  an  inden- 
tation of  Georgian  Bay.    The  town,  although  commenced  in 

1854,  at  the  time  of  the  completion  of  the  Ontario,  Simcoe  and 
Huron  Railroad,  now  contains  (1857)  about  2,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  surprising  erowth  is  mainly 
owing  to  its  being  the  northern  ternunus  of  the  railway  which 
connects  the  Georgian  Bay  with  Lake  Ontario  at  Toronto. 
Great  numbers  of  travelers  and  emigrants  are  at  this  point 
transferred  to  magnificent  steamers,  bound  for  Mackinac,  Green 
Bay,  Chicago,  and  the  Great  West,  as  well  as  to  the  Saut  Ste 
Marie  and  Lake  Superior.  H^re  are  a  long  pier,  800  feet  in 
length;  a  breakwater,  and  light^house ;  several  large  stores  and 
storehouses;  four  hotels,  and  two  or  three  churches  ki  the 
course  of  erection. 

The  steamers  leaving  Collingwood  for  MacMnac  and  Chicago, 
running  along  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  are  of  a  large 
class,  affording  good  accommodations  for  pleabure  travelers.  A 
steamer  leaves  weekly  for  Green  Bay,  sometimes  proceeding  to 
the  Saut  Ste  Marie  and  into  Lake  Superior.  The  steamer 
Canadian  runs  every  day  to  Owen's  Sound,  50  miles  distant; 
and  the  steamer  0hllingwood  runs  weekly  to  Bruce  Mines  and 
the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  affording  a  delightful  steamboat  excursion. 

Immense  quantities  of  fish  are  t>;Ken  in  the  waters  of  Notta- 
wassaga Bay,  belnff  principally  carried  to  the  Toronto  market. 
The  whole  north  shore  of  the  Georgian  Bay  abounds  in  white 
fish,  salmon,  trout,  mc^alonge,  and  other  fish  of  fine  quality, 
affording  profitable  employment  to  the  Canadians  and  Indians. 

"  Some  idea  of  the  value  and  extent  of  the  fishing  operation! 
promiscuously  pursued  in  Nottawassaga  Bay  may  be  formed 
from  the  knowledge  that  the  average  daily  take  exceeds  one 
thousand  fish,  weighing  from  forty  pounds  down  to  one  pound. 
At  this  rate,  that  of  the  season  would  not  fall  short  of  £40,000. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Nottawassaga  Biver  the  white  fish  are 
netted  in  perfect  shoals  throughout  the  spawning  season.  Meet 
of  the  larger  kinds  of  trout  spa^n  about  the  islands,  upon  beds 
of  calcareous  rock,  over  which  a  shifting  drift  of  sand  or  gravel 
passes  by  the  action  of  the  waves,  where  the  water  is  shallow; 
and  from  being  exposed  to  the  sun,  the  temperature  of  the  lake 
is  warmer  at  these  localities  than  e&ewhere.  Thither  the 
fishermen  resort,  and  net  the  fijsh,  vapid  and  placid  m  they  are, 
in  fabulous  amo'unts.** 


THE  1 
This  is  a  ne 
citizens  of  U] 
Toronto  and  G 
the  far  North 
long,  extendinj 
the  Nottawass 
ously  situated 
mit  is  650  feet 
succession  of  1 
the  latter  desci 
feet  below  Lak 

{Eixtraci 

"  The  geogn 
gards  the  Atlai 
each  now  strivi 
West  (and  as  it 
the  north),  woi 
all  those  vast  c 
productions  wo 
their  importati 

The  writer  i 
marks,  and  to  < 
to  the  British 
also  be  pourinj 
posed  canal, 
adapted  to  all 
ceptible  of  the 
Lake  Superior 
gree  of  N.  lat.; 
and  character 
upon  this  terri 
Kiver  country, 
country  it  will 
In  order  to  giv< 
perhaps  I  shoi 
your  attention 
designated,  no< 
Territories,  coi 
of  the  Assinibc 
intersected  in 
this,  agam,  lie 


pofdif. 
ihments 

.dvanta- 

1  inden- 

snced  in 

icoe  and 
kbitants, 
I  mainly 
ly  which 
Toronto, 
lis  point 
10,  Green 
Saut  Ste 
)  feet  in 
tores  and 
IS  in  tbe 

Chicago, 
if  a  large 
e^ers.  A 
ceding  to 

steamer 
)  distant; 
lines  and 
xcursion. 
of  Notta- 
)  market. 

in  white 
I  quality, 
Indians. 
>peratioTy! 
>e  formed 
ceeds  one 
ne  pound. 
'  £40,000. 
9  fish  are 
ion.  Most 
upon  beds 

or  gravel 
I  shallow; 
)f  the  lake 
lither  the| 
I  they  are, 


GEORGIAN  BAT  CANAL.  ^60 


THE  TOEONTO  AND  GEORGIAN  BAT  CANAL. 

This  is  a  new  and  noble  project,  which  is  now  interesting  the 
citizens  of  Upper  Canada,  as  well  as  of  the  United  States: 
Toronto  and  Oswego  being  alike  interested  in  connection  with 
the  far  North  and  West.  The  proposed  canal  will  be  80  miles 
long,  extending  from  Nottawassaga  Bay  through  the  valley  of 
the  Nottawassaga  and  Humber  rivers  to  Toronto,  advantage- 
ously situated  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario.  The  sum- 
mit is  650  feet  above  the  waters  of  Lake  Ontario,  recjuiiing  a 
succession  of  locks  in  the  ascent  and  descent  to  Georgian  Bay, 
the  latter  descent  being  only  310  feet— Lake  Ontario  lying  340 
feet  below  Lake  Huron,  or  Georgian  Bay. 

{Extract  from  ths  Tobonto  Glodb,  of  Septemlery  1856.) 

"  The  geographical  position  of  the  projected  canal,  as  it  re- 
gards the  Atlantic  sea-board  and  those  cities  of  the  United  States, 
each  now  striving  to  grasp  the  trade  and  traffic  of  the  great 
West  (and  as  it  regards  the  great  West  itself,  the  northwest  and 
the  north),  would  give  to  the  city  of  Toronto  the  power  to  make 
all  those  vast  countries,  in  a  measure,  tributary  to  her.  Their 
productions  would  seek  the  sea-board  through  your  canal,  and 
their  importations  would  likewise  pay  their  tribute  in  return.*' 

The  writer  adds :  "  He  wished  only  to  indulge  in  a  few  re- 
marks, and  to  call  attention,  not  to  the  United  States  alone,  but 
to  the  British  Possessions  in  America,  which  ere  long  would 
also  be  pouring  its  flood  of  trade  and  traffic  through  the  pro- 
posed canal.  Westward,  we  possess  vast  and  fertile  countries, 
adapted  to  all  the  pursuits  of  agricultural  life — countries  sus- 
Cdptible  of  the  highest  cultivation  and  improvement.  Between 
Lake  Superior  and  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  (above  the  49th  de- 
gree of  N.  lat.)  we  ^ssess  a  country  of  this  description,  in  soil 
and  character  inferior  to  no  part  of  Minnesota,  and  bordering 
upon  this  territory  lies  the  valley  of  the  Aecdniboine,  or  the  Red 
Kiver  country,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  As  a  wheat-growing 
country  it  will  rival  Canada.  It  does  so  now  in  soil  and  climate. 
In  order  to  give  you  some  idea  of  the  extent  of  that  country,  or, 
perhaps  I  should  say,  portion  of  Western  Canada,  I  will  call 
your  attention  to  a  few  facts.  All  Canada,  as  now  usually 
designated,  not  in  connection  with  what  is  termed  Hudson  Bay 
Territories,  contains  about  860,000  square  miles.  The  valley 
of  the  Assiniboine  contains  about  as  many  square  miles,  and  is 
intersected  in  every  direction  by  navigable  rivers.  Beyond 
this,  again,  lies  the  miignifioent  valley  of  Uie  Saskatchawan. 


? 


ii 


8 


il 


i 


MM 


m\ 


26 


GEORGIAN    BAT    CANAL. 


It  contains  about  400,000  square  miles,  larger  again  than 
Canada. 

'<  Over  the  richest  prairie  lands,  loaded  carts  now  pass  in  any 
direction  for  hundreds  of  miles,  to  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains.     In  its  present  wild  and  uncultivated  state  it  affordg 
sustenance  to  immense  herds  of  wild  cattle.    What  would  it  do 
if  cultivated  by  the  hand  of  man  ?    The  future  products  of  these 
immense  countries  must  seek  the  sea-board,  and  all  the  canals 
and  railroads  which  can  be  constructed  will  scarce  suflSce  to 
afford  facilities  for  the  products  of  the  West.    He  wished  to  call 
their  attention  also  to  another  source,  whence  a  trade  would 
arise,  and  contribute  to  swell  the  traffic  along  the  canal.     Hud 
son  Bay  would  give  to  Canada  a  sea-coast  of  3,000  miles.    Nof 
maritime  power  has  ever  possessed  so  great  a  nursery  for  a  mer 
cantile  navy  as  this.    It  abounds  wim  whales,  and  every  kin(l| 
of  fish ;  and,  strange  as  it  may  appear,  that  great  sea  lies,  as  ii 
were,  in  the  center  of  Canada.     From  the  proposed  terminus  of 
the  canal  it  is  about  650  miles,  350  miles  of  which  is  a  naviga 
tion  capable  of  bearing  ships  of  any  burden ;  from  Lake  Su 
rior  to  Hudson  Bay  is  300  miles.    If  the  route  between  Lab 
Superior  and  Hudson  Bay  was  open  and  improved,  they  wouli 
speedily  establish  fisheries  along  the  coasts  of  that  bay.     Thi 
oil  and  fish  now  consumed  in  those  states  is  immense,  and  the; 
will  be  furnished  them  from  Hudson  Bay  cheaper  and  mo: 
speedily  than  from  the  source  they  now  receive  them.     A  trad 
like  this  will  sooner  or  later  spring  up,  and  create  along  Hud 
son  Bay  an  immense  demand  for  all  those  manufactures  am 
productions  which  the  United  States  can  supply,  and  th 
must  find  their  way  through  their  canal.     A  large  trade  at  t 
moment  is  had  along  that  bay.*    The  Hudson  Bay  Company, 
who  have  seven  forts  there,  and  one  above  York  Factory, 
ceive  annual  supplies  to  the  amount  of  from  £70,000  to  £90,000, 
Many  of  these  goods,  perhaps,  are  of  that  description  whici 
Toronto  merchants  could  supply  with  advantage.     To  the  traffii 
which  must  exist  all  along  the  shores  of  Lakes  Huron  and  So 
perior  I  make  no  allusion.     It  is  evident  to  all  that  it  must ' 
tributary  to  the  canal.     It  may  be  said  that  all  that  I  havi 
n  lluded  to  as  regards  the  traffic  to  arise  from  our  country  is  fi 
in  prospective,  but  there  is  no  reason  why  we  should  not  pro 
gress  and  advance  westward  as  do  the  United  States." 


From  OniLLii 
author  with  his 
birch  canoes  dow 
Georgian  Bay, 


♦  "  The  Hudson  Bay  Company  have  lone  endeavored  by  rewards  m 
argumonts  to  excite  an  exportation  of  tallow,  hides,  wool,  etc.,  to  £n^ 
land ;  but  the  bulky  nature  of  the  exports,  the  long  and  dangerous  navij 
gation  to  Hudson  Bay,  and  the  habits  of  the  half-breed  race,  who  formth 
mass  of  the  people,  and  generally  prefer  chasing  the  buffalo  to  asricultu' 
or  regular  industry,  have  rendered  their  efforts  ineffectual.**— -B.  Moa 
OOXXBT  Mabtik. 


lin  than 

BS  in  any 
y  Moun 

affordg 

uld  it  do 

i  of  these 

le  canals 

Buffice  to 

ed  to  call 

ie  would 

1.    Hud- 

lies.    No 

or  a  mer 

very  kind 

lies,  as  it 

•minus  of 

a  naviga* 

B,ke  Supe- 

een  Lake 

ley  would 

)ay.    The 

and  they 

and  more 

A  trade 
ong  Hud- 
tures  am 
and  thes< 


Company 
ustory,  n 

>  £90,000, 


TRIP  FROM  ORILLIA  TO  GEORGIAN  MY. 


Extract  from  the  Canadian  Toubibt. 

From  Orillia,  situated  near  the  foot  of  Lake  Simcoe,  the 

author  with  his  companions,  four  in  number,  passed  in  two 

birch  canoes  down  the  Severn,  a  distance  of  about  60  miles,  to 

Georgian  Bay,  and  thence  to  Collingwood  by  steamer.    The 

river  is  navigable  only  for  canoes,  and,  except  by  sportsmen,  is 

as  yet  rarely  visited. 

"  In  our  eyes,  its  solitary  character  and  the  romantic  scenery 
on  its  banks  were  its  principal  attractions.  Having  reduced 
our  luggage  to  the  smallest  possible  dimensions,  and  put  our 
fishing-tackle  into  good  order,  it  only  remained  for  us  to  make 
ourselves  comfortable  by  spreading  a  quantitv  of  plucked  fern 
and  juniper  branches  at  the  bottom  of  our  canoes.  We  re- 
reclined  sumptuously  in  one,  with  about  as  much  accommoda- 
tion as  a  ship's  hammock  would  afford  two  moderately  stout 
individuals.  However,  as  we  were  less  likely  to  be  upset  by 
being  so  closely  jammed  together  that  we  could  scarcely  move, 
we  became  reconciled  to  our  position  between  Bonaquum 
('Thunderbolt'),  who  knelt  at  the  bows  and  paddled,  and  his 
brother  Kabeshquum  (*  Triumphant*),  who  steered.  The  other 
ide  at  tliif  canoe  contained  Captain  A ,  whose  experience  in  such  expe- 
ditions, and  knoMedge  of  Indian  character  and  language,  were 
most  valuable— and  Babehwum  (*  Snow-Storm*),  whose  son,  as 
an  exemplification  of  the  effect  of  civilization  over  the  elements. 


ion  whicl  called  himself  simply  John  Stornr.  As  the  wind  was  fair,  we 
the  traffic  Hgged  our  blankets  upon  sticks  cut  for  the  purpose ;  and,  with 
n  and  Sn  all  sail  set,  we  glided  rapidly  on  (through  the  lovely  waters  of 
it  must  b(  Lake  Couchiching),  sometimes  threading  our  way  through  nar- 
lat  I  hav(  row  channels,  past  low- wooded  islands,  imtil  in  about  two  hours 
ntry  is  fai  we  found  ourselves  upon  the  green  waters  of  the  Severn. 
1  not  pro  "  The  scenery  at  the  point  of  debouchure  was  very  beautiful. 
Masses  of  rich  variegated  foliage  clothed  the  banks,  and  bent 
over  until  the  river  rippled  among  the  leaves.  ften  dark 
shadows  reached  across  it,  or  were  checkered  by  sunbeams 
glancing  through  the  branches  upon  the  clear  and  singularly 
light- colored  water.  As  we  proceeded,  we  exchanged  for  the 
calm  surface  of  the  lake,  and  the  islands  which  seemed  to  rest 
on  its  bosom,  rock  and  rapid,  until  at  last  the  torrent  became 
too  tumultuous  for  our  frail  canoes.  Meantime,  we  had  not 
been  engaged  only  in  enjoying  the  beauties  of  nature,  we  had 


■owards  aD<| 
(tc,  to  En^ 
l^eroQS  M^ij 
r ho  form  t"" 
» agricult 
»— B.  MM 


28 


ORILLIA   TO    GEORGIAN   BAT. 


Ill 


KiH 


adopted  the  usual  mode  of  trolling  in  thia  part  of  the  world, 
with  copper  spoons,  which,  twisting  rapidly  through  the  water, 
formed  a  bright  and  attractive  bait;  so  that,  upon  arriving  at 
the  first  portage,  we  congratulated  ourselves  upon  the  prospect 
of  lunching  off  half-a-dozen  black  bass  weighing  from  two  to 
five  pounds  each ;  while  the  Indians  were  engaged  in  culinary 
preparations. 

"  We  were  up  before  daylight  on  the  following  morning,  and, 
after  a  good  &h  breakfast,  were  again  on  our  way.  I  had 
scarcely  thrown  my  trolling-line,  when  it  was  nearly  jerked 
out  of  my  hand  by  a  most  unexpected  and  violent  tug.  A  bark 
canoe  is  not  the  most  convenient  place  from  which  to  play  a 
largo  fish ;  and,  in  my  inexperienced  eagerness,  I  hauled  away 
pretty  steadily,  bringing  to  the  surface  with  some  difficulty  a 
fine  maskalonge,  weighing  at  least  twenty-five  pounds.  He 
came  c^lashing  and  plunging  up  to  the  side  of  the  canoe,  and  I 
had  lifted  him  out  of  water,  when  the  hook  gave  way,  and  I 
lost  as  fine  a  fish  as  I  ever  had  at  the  end  of  a  line.  However, 
I  was  consoled  soon  after  by  taking  some  fine  pickerel,  weigh- 
ing from  five  to  eight  pounds  each;  and,  before  luncheon, 
hooked  another  maskalonge,  when  my  companion,  profiting  by 
experience,  was  ready  with  his  gaff-hook,  and  jerked  him  most 
scientifically  into  the  canoe,  much  to  the  delight  of  the  Indians. 
Though  not  so  large  as  the  first,  he  was  a  respectable  fish, 
weighing  about  eighteen  pounds.  The  scenery  in  the  place 
was  bold  and  rocky,  the  banks  often  lofty  and  precipitous.,  and 
the  current  always  strong,  with  an  occasional  rapid.  We 
lunched  at  a  portage,  which  we  were  oMiged  to  make  in  order 
to  avoid  the  falls  of  the  Severn,  which  are  here  about  twenty- 
five  feet  in  height,  and  surrounded  by  fine  scenery.  There  are 
rapids  above  and  below  the  falls,  so  that  the  difference  of  level 
between  the  upper  and  lower  banks  of  the  portage  is  not  less 
than  fifty  feet." 

We  regret  that  we  can  not  make  room  for  more  extractis  from 
these  interesting  "  Notes  on  Canada  and  the  Northwest  States," 
but  we  do  the  next  best  thing  by  recommending  the  articles 
themselves  to  the  perusal  of  our  readers. 

The  above  trip  affords  a  favorable  opportunity  to  visit  Pene- 
tanguishene  and  the  *'  Million  Islands"  of  Georgian  Bay.         ^ 

Penetanguishene,  C.  W.,  60  miles  north  of  CoUingwood 
by  steamboat  route,  situated  on  a  lovely  and  secure  bay,  is  an 
old  and  very  important  settlement,  comprising  an  Episcopal 
and  Roman  Catholic  church,  two  hotels,  a  custom-house,  seve- 


ORILLIA    TO    GEOPGIAN    BAY. 


29 


ral  stores  and  storehonses,  and  has  alout  500  inhabitants.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  is  a  naval  and  military  depot  and  bar- 
racks, established  by  the  British  g-overnuient.  The  natural 
beauties  of  the  bay  and  harbor,  combined  wi^h  the  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  shores,  make  up  a  picture  of  rare  beauty.  Here 
may  be  seen  the  native  Indian,  the  half-breed,  and  the  Canadian 
voyageur,  with  the  full-blooded  Englishman  or  Scotchman, 
forming  one  community.  This  place,  being  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Severn,  and  contiguous  to  the  numberless  islands  of 
Georgian  Bay,  is  no  doubt  destined  to  become  a  favorite  resort 
for  the  angler  and  sportsman,  aa  well  as  the  invalid  and  seeker 
of  pleasure. 

Christian  Island,  lying  altout  25  miles  from  Penetangui- 
shene,  and  25  miles  N.  E.  of  Cape  Rich,  is  a  large  and  fertile 
island,  which  was  early  settled  by  the  Jesuits.  There  are  sev- 
ieral  others  passed  north  of  Christian  Island,  of  great  >  auty, 
while  still  farther  northwest  are  encountered  innumerable 
islands  and  islets,  forming  labyrinths,  and  secluded  passages 
and  coves  as  yet  almost  unknown  to  the  white  man,  extending 
westward  for  upward  of  one  hundred  miles. 


ts  from 
bates," 
i.rticlf5S 

Pene- 

ngwood 
y,  is  an 
Mscopal 
e,  seve- 


ISLANDS   ON  NORTH   SHOEE,   GEORGIAN   BAY. 

Extract  from  Letters  from  the  Korth  and  Lake  Huron. 

Shb-ba-wa-nah-nino,  Georqtan  Bat,  C.  W.,  I 
Augmt  16, 1856.  f 

"  Among  the  regions  of  the  continent  interesting  to  the 
[traveler,  and  which  are  not  frequently  visited,  is  the  north 
iBhore  of  Georgian  Bay.  Leaving  Penetanguishene  we  crossed 
|to  the  mouth  of  the  river  Mushkoss,  a  distance  of  about  eighteen 
liles.  From  this  place  we  proceeded  up  the  shore  in  a  small 
|l)oat,  making  daily  such  journeys  as  suited,  and  lingering  when- 
ever we  found  an  interest  to  repay. 

"  The  Mushkoss  is  one  of  the  lumber  points  on  the  bay.    It 
[s  approached  through  a  strip  of  numerous  islands  seven  miles 
width,  and  it  is  the  first  inhabited  place  on  the  shore  above 
(he  mouth  of  the  Severn.    Here,  as  at  the  Severn,  the  only 
img  to  attract  a  habitation  is  the  lumber,  which  only  receives 
attention.    But  one  almost  wonders,  when  he  sees  the  country. 


30 


ORILLIA    TO    GEORGIAN    BAY. 


where  the  lumber  comes  from,  for  the  rock  here  again  appears, 
and  holds  a  dominion  forever  beyond  the  hopes  of  man  to  see 
subdued.  The  rock  is  throughout  the  country.  It  stands  boldly 
along  the  shore,  and  forms  the  islands,  sustains  the  water,  and 
its  bare  surface  appears  everywhere.  Yet  the  country  has  a 
vegetation  which  covers  it  with  verdure.  Bushes,  wild  flowers, 
and  pine  spring  up  everywhere,  where  a  little  earth  has  drifted 
and  found  a  lodgment.  Pine  is  almost  the  only  timber,  and  we 
daily  saw  it  growing  in  places  so  barren,  that  i*,  seemed  as  if  no 
vegetation  could  be  sustained  either  in  nutrition  or  uprightness 
of  position.  Some  dwarfed  oaks  may  be  seen,  and,  perhaps, 
occasionally  some  birch.  The  pine  which  is  sawed  into  lumber 
is  cut  a  distance  back,  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  is  then 
drifted  down.  It  is  inferior  in  size  to  that  of  more  southern 
regions,  and,  we  believe,  by  no  means  has  so  good  an  average 
soundness  of  quality. 

"  The  Mushkoss  is  a  stream  of  moderate  size,  but  sends  a 
large  division  to  the  bay,  to  the  westward,  which  diverges  many 
miles  above.  The  river,  in  the  interior  country,  expands  into 
lakes  or  pools,  some  of  which  are  large  and  filled  with  numer- 
ous islands.  This,  with  a  dark-colored  water,  is  characteristic 
of  many  of  the  streams  which  come  down  from  the  north. 
Even  small  streams  sometimes  form  a  small  chain  of  numerous 
lakes,  extending  a  great  distance  back.  It  is  up  these  streams 
and  around  these  lakes  that  many  of  the  Indians  find  their 
hunting-grounds  for  the  winter ;  sometimes  going  almost  to  the 
divide,  beyond  which  the  waters  flow  into  Hudson  Bay.  They 
ffo  in  the  fall,  and  return  in  the  spring  with  furs,  which  fall 
into  the  hands  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  or  those  of  the 
various  traders  along  the  coast,  and  are  paid  for  in  goods  at  a 
large  profit. 

**  Proceeding  westward  the  traveler  encounters  a  maze  of 
innumerable  islands,  which  commences  at  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  bay,  and  continues  in  an  almost  unbroken  stretch  for  one 
hundred  miles  and  upward.  There  are  myriads  of  them,  and 
we  have  counted  over  fifty  from  a  single  stand-point.  They  are 
mostly  small,  although  some  of  them  are  of  large  size.  One 
may  wander  industriously  amid  them  for  months,  and  find  new 
scenes  to  gladden  his  eyes  every  day,  for  the  chain  has  a  breadth  | 
of  many  miles.  Countless  channels  run  between  them,  many 
of  which  are  sufficiently  deep  and  clear  for  the  largest  vesseU  | 
of  the  lakes.  There  are  numerous  small  bays,  and  the  chan- 
nels sometimes  haVfe  a  considerable  width ;  and,  now  and  then,  I 
one  runs  a  distance  of  ten  and  twenty  miles  with  scarcely  an 
interruption.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  tell  when  you  approach 
the  mainland.  One  may  think  himself  upon  it  when  he  ia  mileii 
away,  or  may  pursue  some  lagoon  projecting  deep  into  it,  whenj 


OKTLLIA   TO   GEORGIAN    BAT. 


81 


ppears, 

to  see 

boldly 

er,  and 

has  a 

lowers, 

drifted 

and  we 

as  if  no 

ghtness 

)erhaps, 

lumber 

is  then 

outhern 

average 

sends  a 
es  many 
nds  into 

numer- 
Lcteristic 
e  north, 
lumerous 
i  streams 
nd  their 
3st  to  the 
7,  They 
hich  fall 
36  of  the 
oods  at  a 

maze  of 
)xtremity 
ih  for  one 
hem,  and 
They  are 
ize.  One 
L  find  new 
a  breadth 
jm,  many 
jst  vessels  | 
the  chan- 
and  then,! 
larcely  an 
approach 
18  is  miles  I 
0  it,  when  I 


he  supposes  himself  treading  on  an  island  channel,  and  at  last 
be  obliged  to  return. 

"  One  is  earnestly  told  before  he  starts,  by  those  who  have 
been  on  this  shore,  that  if  he  would  take  his  course  throueh 
the  islands,  he  must  have  a  guide ;  and  certainly  without,  &e 
sti-anger  can  not  be  sure  of  great  expedition.  We  were  for- 
tunate enough  to  have  Bayfield's  chart  along,  which  we  found 
a  great  help,  although  no  attempt  is,  or  could  successfully  be, 
made  to  chart  in  detail  the  interminable  labyrinth  of  isl  nds. 

'*  The  better  way  for  one  coasting  thus  is  to  take  a  course 
through  the  outer  edge  of  the  islands,  keeping  the  broad  waters 
in  view.  A  certain  guide  and  a  cool,  bracing  atmosphere  are 
thus  obtained,  while  the  splendor  of  its  scenery  is  almost  un- 
rivaled. Along  the  islands  and  next  to  th«  bay  are  numerous 
and  wide  shoals.  The  rock  floor,  sometimes  level  and  again 
broken,  can  often  be  seen  through  the  clear  water  for  a  long 
distance.  To  the  west  the  islands  grow  less  numerous  and  the 
water  between  them  wider,  until  you  approach  She-ba-wa-nah- 
ning,  when  the  chain  draws  to  a  close.  Islands  after  this  are 
numerous,  but  may  mostly  be  traced  upon  the  chart.  Tho 
islands  have  the  same  vegetation  and  the  same  physical  con- 
formation as  the  mainland. 

"  The  course  of  the  shore  seems  much  nearer  north  and  west, 
until  you  arrive  at  the  French  River,  when  it  runs  nearly  west. 
The  rock  is  continuous  the  whole  distance.  It  is  chiefly  gran- 
ite, but  sandstone  appears  in  considerable  quantity  this  side  of 
the  French  River.  The  rock  attains  at  times  considerable  height 
and  boldness,  and  as  you  near  She-ba-wa-nah-ning,  it  sometimes 
rises  into  grandeur.  Here  a  mountain  chain  hangs  along  the 
coast,  standing  up  against  the  sky  like  a  large  blue  cloud. 
Between  this  and  the  water  are  a  few  acres  of  tillable  land, 
yet  none  is  under  cultivation  save  a  very  little  which  is  mowed, 
indeed,  farming  is  a  business  which  is  not  thought  of  on  the 
north  side  Georgian  Bay,  even  by  the  few  white  inhabitants  scat- 
tered there.  There  may  be  a  patch  of  a  few  acres  now  and 
then  along  the  shore  which  might  be  cultivated,  but  we  saw 
scarcely  any.  But  there  are  probably  some  sections  where  a 
little  may  be  found,  for  the  Indians  find  somewhere  here  the 
maple  for  the  manufacture  of  sugar.  They  told  us  that  it  is 
near  the  mouth  of  French  River,  on  the  east  side,  and  that  they 
there  raise  some  potatoes  and  corn.  But  we  believe  that  the 
shore  can  never  be  even  sparingly  settled.  At  some  points 
there  may  be  tillable  lands  a  considerable  distance  back.  Yet 
there  are  no  indications  of  it  along  the  shore.  A  large  grant 
of  land,  we  are  informed,  bars  been  obtained  to  construct  a  rail- 
road from  the  Ottawa  to  some  point  near  the  mouth  of  the 
French  River  on  the  bay 


32 


COLLINaWOOD   TO    THE    SAUT    STB    MARIE. 


,(!       M 


'*  The  timber  observed  as  far  as  Sbe-ba-wa-nah-ning  is  almost 
entirely  pine.  One  is  almost  surprised  at  the  constancy  of  it. 
Some  spruce,  tamarao,  birch,  and  poplar  are  seen,  howeyer, 
and  probably  cedar  may  be  found  also  The  juniper  shrub  is 
abundant,  and  often  very  productive.  There  are  exhaustless 
quantities  of  whortleberries,  and  as  fine  as  the  world  anywhere 
produces.  We  hardly  landed  at  a  place  where  they  were  not 
plenty.  Wild,  red  cherries,  currants,  gooseberries,  raspberries, 
blackberries,  and  cranberries  are  frequently  met  with  in  con- 
siderable quantities.  Such  is  the  general  character  of  the 
north  shore,  and  the  islands  of  Georgian  Bay  and  their  pro- 
ductions, up  to  She-ba-wa-nah-ning,  which  is  situated  nearly 
mid-way  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  waters  of  Lake  Huron." 


ii,  .-■.,1 


I 


.Til 
■■'IP 


iiii  ««!' 


TRIP  FROM  COLLIiXGWOOD  TO  THE  SAUT  STE  MARIE, 

THEOUGH  GEORGIAN  BAY  AND  NOETH  CHANNEL. 


This  is  a  new  and  highly  interesting  steamboat  excursion, 
brought  into  notice  by  the  completion  of  the  Ontario t  Simcoe 
and  Huron  Railroad j  extending  from  Toronto  to  CoUingwood, 
at  the  southern  extremity  of  Georgian  Bay, 

NoTTAWAssAOA  Bait,  the  southern  termination  of  Georgian 
Bay,  is  a  large  expanse  of  water  bounded  by  Cape  Rich  on  the 
west  and  Christian  Island  on  the  east,  each  being  distant 
about  30  miles  from  Collingwood.  At  the  south  end  of  the  bay 
lies  a  small  group  of  islands  called  the  Hen  and  Chickens. 

On  leaying  Collingwood  for  Bruce  Mines  and  the  Saut  Ste 
Marie,  the  steamer  usually  runs  direct  across  Georgian  Bay  io 
Lonely  Island,  passing  Cabot's  Head  to  the  right,  and  the  pas- 
sage leading  into  the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Huron,  which  is  the 
route  pursued  by  the  steamers  in  the  Toyage  to  Mackinac, 
Green  Bay,  and  Chicago.  During  the  summer  months  the 
trip  from  Collingwood  to  Mackinac  and  Chicago  affords  a  de- 
lightful excursion. 

Owen's  Sound,  or  Sydenham,  50  miles  west  of  Collingwood, 
although  off  the  direct  route  to  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  is  well 
worthy  of  a  passing  notice.  Here  is  a  thriving  settlement, 
surrounded  by  a  fertile  section  of  country,  and  containing  about 
2,500  inhabitants.  A  steamer  runs  daily  from  Collingwood  to 
this  place,  which  will,  no  doubt,  soon  be  reached  by  railroad. 

Lonely  Island,  situated  about  100  miles  west  of  Colling- 
wood and  20  miles  east  of  the  Great  Manitoulin  Islands,  is  a 
largo  body  of  land  mostly  covered  with  a  dense  forest,  and  un- 
inhabited, except  by  a  few  fishermen,  who  resort  here  at  cer- 
tain seasons  of  the  year  for  the  purpose  of  taking  fish  of 
different  kinds.  The  steamer  usually  passes  this  island  on  its 
north  side,  steering  for  Cape  Smyth,  a  bold  promontory  jutting 


34 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    8AUT    STB    MARIE. 


CO 


oat  from  the  Great  Manitoulin,  and  distant  from  Lonely  Island 
about  25  miles. 

Squaw  Island  and  Papoose  Island  are  seen  on  the  north- 
east, while  farther  inland  are  the  Fox  Islands^  being  the  com- 
mencement on  the  west  of  the  innumerable  islands  which 
abound  along  the  north  shore  of  Georgian  Bay. 

La  Cloche  Mountains,  rising  about  2,000  feet  above  the 
sea,  are  next  seen  in  the  distance,  toward  the  north ;  these, 
combined  with  the  wild  scenery  of  the  islands  and  headlands, 
form  a  grand  panoramic  view,  enjoyed  from  the  deck  of  the 
passing  steamer. 

Smyth's  Bay  is  passed  on  the  west,  some  eight  or  ten  miles 
distant.  At  the  head  of  this  bay,  on  the  Great  Manitoulin  Is- 
land, is  situated  a  village  of  Indians,  and  a  Jesuit^s  mission, 
called  We-qua-me-kong.  These  aborigines  are  noted  for  their 
industry,  raising  wheat,  corn,  oats,  and  potatoes  in  large  quan- 
tities. This  part  of  the  island  is  very  fertile,  and  the  climate 
is  healthy. 

She-ba-wa-nah-ning,  signifying,  in  the  Indian  dialect, 
"  Here  is  a  channel,^*  is  a  most  charming  spot,  40  miles  dis- 
tant from  Lonely  Island,  hemmed  in  by  mountains  on  the  north, 
and  a  high  rocky  island  on  the  south.  It  is  situated  on  the 
north  side  of  a  narrow  channel,  about  half  a  mile  in  length, 
which  has  a  great  depth  of  water.  Here  is  a  convenient  steam- 
boat landing,  a  church,  a  store,  aud  some  ten  or  twelve  dwel- 
lings, inhabited  by  Canadians  and  half-breeds.  Indians  as- 
semble here  often  in  considerable  numbers,  to  sell  their  fish 
and  furs,  presenting  with  their  canoes  and  dogs  a  very  gro- 
tesque appearance.  One  resident  at  this  landing  usually 
attracts  much  attention — a  noble  dog,  of  the  color  of  cream.  No 
sooner  does  the  steamer's  bell  ring,  than  this  animal  rushes  to 
the  wharf,  sometimes  assisting  to  secure  the  rope  that  is  thrown 
ashore;  the  next  move  he  makes  is  to  board  the  vessel,  as  though 
he  was  a  custom-house  officer;  but  on  one  ocuasion,  in  his  eager- 
ness to  get  into  the  kitchen,  he  fell  overboard ;  nothing  daunted, 
he  swam  to  the  shore,  and  then  again  boarding  the  Tessei,  suc- 


ceeded in  his 
which  prompts 

On  leaving 
a  most  beauti 
mountains  upi 
and  sterile  ap; 
the  view — thei 
latter  lying  off 
the  Great  Man 

Man-i-tou- 
nah-ning,  is  ] 
Sound.    It  is 
agency,  being 
Indian  annuiti 

Little  Cui 
another  interee 
itoulin,  opposit 
narrow,  with  a 
knots  an  hour, 
stops  at  this  la 
of  wood,  it  l?e 
breed,  who  res 
often  seen  here 
be  indolent  ai 
of  the  soil  for 
ing,  although 
ferently  cultiv 

Clapper TO 
are  passed  in  \ 
about  120  mile 
situated  a  po; 
seen  from  the 

Co^KBURN 

durectly  west  o 
by  a  narrow  c 
bat  uninhabiti 


COLLINQWOOD   TO    8AUT    RTB    MARIE. 


35 


ceeded  in  his  dcsiro  to  fill  his  stomaeh,  showing  the  instinct 
which  prompts  many  a  bipod  office-seeker. 

On  leaving  Shc-ba-wa-nah  ning  and  procecdin^r  westward, 
a  most  beautiful  bay  is  pas)«ed,  studded  with  i:jlands — and 
mountains  upward  of  1,000  feet  in  hei^hl,  presenting  a  rocky 
and  sterile  appearance,  forming  an  appropriate  background  to 
the  view — thence  is  passed  Ba^lijley  and  Jleywood  islands,  the 
latter  lying  off  Hey  wood  Sound,  situated  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Great  Manitoulln. 

Man-i-tou-wah-ning,  25  miles  northwest  of ' She-ba-wa- 
nah-ning,  is  handsomely  situated  at  the  head  of  Heywood 
Sound.  It  is  an  Indian  settlement,  and  also  a  government 
agency,  being  the  place  annually  selected  to  distribute  the 
Indian  annuities. 

Little  Current,  25  miles  west  of  She-ba-wa-nah-ning,  is 
another  interesting  landing  on  the  north  shore  of  the  Great  Man- 
itoulin,  opposite  La  Cloche  Island.  Here  the  main  channel  is 
narrow,  with  a  current  usually  running  at  the  rate  of  five  or  six 
knots  an  hour,  being  much  affected  by  the  winds.  The  steamer 
stops  at  this  landing  for  an  hour  or  upward,  receiving  a  supply 
of  wood,  it  l^eing  furnished  by  an  intelligent  Indian  or  half- 
breed,  who  resides  at  this  place  with  his  family.  Indians  are 
often  seen  here  in  considerable  numbers.  They  are  reported  to 
be  indolent  and  harmless,  too  often  neglecting  the  cultivation 
of  the  soil  for  the  more  uncertain  pursuits  of  finhing  and  hunt- 
ing, although  a  considerable  large  clearing  is  to  be  seen  indif- 
ferently cultivated. 

Clapper  TON  Island  and  other  islands  of  less  magnitude 
are  passed  in  *.he  JVorth  Channel ^  which  is  a  ^arge  body  of  water 
about  120  miles  long  and  25  miles  wide.  On  the  north  shore  is 
situated  a  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  which  may  be 
seen  from  the  deck  of  the  passing  steamer. 

Co'^KBURN  Island,  85  miles  west  of  Little  Current,  lies 
dbrectly  west  of  the  Great  Manitoulin,  from  which  it  is  s^aratec^ 
by  a  narrow  channel.  It  is  a  large  island,  somewhat  elevated, 
hat  uninhabited,  except  by  IndiaDS. 


^ 


36 


COLLINOWOOD   TO   BAUT   8TX   MARIS. 


Drummond  Tsland,  15  miles  farther  westward,  belongs  to 
the  United  States,  being  attached  to  the  State  of  Michigan 
This  is  another  large  body  of  land,  being  low,  and  as  yet  mostly 
uninhabited. 

The  next  island  approached  before  landing  at  Bruce  Mines  \a 
St.  Joseph  Island,  leing  a  large  and  fertile  body  of  land, 
with  some  few  settlers. 

Bruce  Mines  Village,  C  W.,  is  situated  on  the  north 
shore  of  Lake  Huron,  or  the  "  North  Channel,'*  as  it  is  here 
called,  distant  290  miles  from  CoUingwood,  and  60  from  the 
Saut  Ste  Marie.  Here  are  a  Methodist  chapel,  a  public-house, 
and  a  store  and  storehouse  belonging  to  the  Montreal  Copper 
Mining  Company,  besides  extensive  buildings  used  for  crushing 
ore  and  preparing  it  for  the  market ;  about  75  dwellings  and 
600  inhabitants.  The  copper  ore,  after  being  crushed  by  power- 
ful machinery  propelled  by  steam,  is  put  into  puddling  troughs 
and  washed .  by  water,  so  as  to  obtain  about  20  per  cent,  pure 
copper.  In  this  state  it  is  shipped  to  the  United  States  and 
England,  bringing  about  $80  per  ton.  It  then  has  to  go  througb 
an  ext^isive  smelting  process,  in  order  to  obtain  the  pure  metal 
The  mines  are  situated  in  the  immediate  yicinity  of  the  Tillage,  | 
there  being  ten  openings  or  shafts  from  which  the  ore  is  ob*  i 
tained  in  its  crude  state.  Horse-power  is  mostly  used  to  ele- 
vate the  ore ;  the  whims  are  above  ground,  attached  to  which 
are  ropes  and  buckets.  This  mine  gives  employment  to  abont 
300  workmen.  The  capital  stock  of  the  company  amounts  to| 
$600,000. 

The  Wellington  Mine^  about  one  mile  distant,  is  also  owned] 
by  the  Montreal  Mining  Company,  but  is  leased  and  worked  by 
an  English  company.    This  mine,  at  the  present  time,  is  morej 
productive  than  the  Bruce  Mines. 

The  Lake  Superior  Journal  gives  the  following  description! 

of  the  Bruce  Mine,  from  which  is  produced  a  copper  ore  differ* 

ing  from  that  which  is  yielded  by  other  mines  of  that  peninsukl 

'*  Ten  years  ago  this  mine  was  opened,  and  large  sums  ex'j 
pended  for  machinery,  which  proved  useless,  but  it  is  now  ufi'l 


(ler  now  ma 

shafts  have 

some  8.30  fe 

the  Kuropeo 

the  eye,  res 

shaft,  they  i 

where  they  i 

only  a  fine  p 

where  they  i 

is  Wftshod  a^ 

shipment,  ha 

It  is  now  m 

Two  years  si] 

fiilo  to  be  smi 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    SALT    8TE    MARIE. 


37 


mgfl  to 

chigan 

mostly 

klines  is 
}f  land, 

,e  north 
;  is  here 
rom  the 
ic-house, 
il  Copper 
crushing 
lings  and 
t)y  power- 
g  troughs 
jent.  pure 
tates  and 
0  through  j 
ure  metal- 
he  Tillage,  I 
ore  is  oh* 
Bed  to  ele- 
i  to 'which 
Lt  to  about  I 
imonnts  to  I 

also  owned 
-worked  hjl 
ne,  is  more 

descriptioB| 
ore  difftf* 


der  now  management,  and  promises  to  yield  profitably.  Twolye 
shafts  have  been  openeil,  one  of  which  has  been  carried  down 
8omo  3J30  feet.  Some  200  or  300  men  are  employe<l,  all  from 
tlie  European  mines.  Some  of  the  ores  are  Tery  beautiful  to 
the  eye,  resembling  fine  gold.  After  bcinz  taken  out  of  the 
shaft,  they  are  taken  upon  a  rail-track  to  Uie  crushing-house, 
where  they  are  passed  between  large  iron  rollers,  and  sifted  till 
only  a  fine  powder  remains  ;  from  thence  to  the  ♦  jigger  works,' 
where  they  are  shaken  in  water  till  much  of  the  earthy  matter 
is  washed  away,  after  which  it  is  piled  in  the  yard  ready  for 
shipment,  having  more  the  appearance  of  mud  than  of  copper. 
It  is  now  mostly  shipped  to  Swansea,  in  Wales,  for  smelting. 
Two  years  since  1,600  tons  were  shipped  to  Baltimore  and  Buf- 
falo to  be  smelted." 

On  resuming  the  voyage  after  leaving  Bruce  Mines,  the 
steamer  runs  along  St.  Joseph  Island  through  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  in  which  are  embosomed  some  few  islands  near 
the  main  shore. 

Campemi>.nt  D'Ourb  is  an  island  passed  on  the  left,  lying 
contiguous  to  St.  Joseph  Island.  Here  are  encountered  several 
small  rocky  islands,  forming  an  intricate  channel  called  the- 
"  JVarrows."  On  some  of  the  islands  in  this  group  are  found^ 
copper  ore,  and  beautiful  specimens  of  moss.  The  forest  trees, 
however,  are  of  a  dwarfish  growth,  owing,  no  doubt,  to  the* 
scantiness  of  soil  on  these  rocky  islands. 

About  10  miles  west  of  the  "  Narrows,"  the  main  channel  of 
the  St.  Mary's  River  is  reached,  forming  the  boundary  between* 
the  United  States  and  Canada.    A  rocky  island  lies  on  the  Ca- 
nadian side,  which  is  reserved  for  government  pui;poses,  as  it 
commands  the  main  or  ship  channel. 

Sugar  Island  is  now  reached,  which  belongs  to  the  United 
States,  and  the  steamers  run  a  further  distance  of  25  miles, 
when  the  landing  at  the  Saut  Ste  Marie  is  reached,  there  being- 
settlements  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  The  British  boats  usu- 
ally land  on  the  north  side,  while  the  American  boats  make  a 
I  landing  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  near  the  mouth  of  the^ 
I  Bhip  canal. 


^  Bums  ex'l 

;  iB  now  HB*! 


^  I 


to  '  !fii 


I  m 


II. 


:,:ii»: 


r>8 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    8AUT    STE    MARIK. 


TEIP  THROUGH  GEORGIAN  BAY  AND  THE  NORTH  CHANNEL 
OF  LAKE  HURON  TO  MANITOULIN  AND  BAUT 

STE  MARIE. 

{Copied  from  a  Toronto  paper.) 

Dated  on  board  the  Steamer  Collingwood,  | 
Lake  Hubon,  August  17,  1856.  ( 

"  A  LONG,  dark  tongue  of  land  stretches  out  into  the  lake  on 
our  larboard  quarter,  and  the  opposite  y'leyr  is  backed  by  a 
rugged  coast,  with  mountains  tall  and  grim.  We  are  just  off 
Cabot's  Head,  near  where  the  Georgian  Bay  attains  its  g,ieatest 
width  (68  miles).  The  east  coast  of  the  Georgian  Bay,  as  de- 
scribed by  Mr.  Murray,  consists  almost  exclusively  of  a  sterile 
rocky  border.  There  are  numerous  harbors,  many  of  which 
are,  however,  so  hemmed  in  by  reefs  and  sunken  islets  as  to 
I  render  them  almost  inaccessible  to  boats  of  any  considerable 
draught.  As  we  advance  toward  the  north  mainland  past 
Lonely  Island,  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  Great  Manitoulin 
comes  clearly  within  view.  An  abrupt  escarpment  here  forms 
Cape  Smyth,  and  inside  a  deep  sheltered  bend,  called  Smyth's 
Bay,  is  located  the  Jesuit  Missionary  village  of  Wequamc- 
kong.  This  neat  little  settlement  being  situated  on  a  slope  sur- 
rounded by  extensive  clearances,  a.nd  covered  with  regularly- 
built  frame  houses,  shows  out  favorably  to  the  passer-by. 
Due  north  lies  our  first  stopping-place.  The  distance  from 
CoUingwood  to  the  head  of  the  Georgian  Bay  is  about  140  miles, 
and  the  point  of  measurement  is  a  small  trading  port  named 
She-ba-wa-nah-ning,  which  was  reached  early  on  the  forenoon 
of  Thursday.  The  entrance  to  it  is  by  a  strait  so  narrow  as  to 
be  quite  imperceptible  at  any  considerable  distance  from  shore, 
bounded  on  the  east  side  by  the  mainland,  and  on  the  west  by 
a  high  island.  It  forms  a  secure  harbor  at  all  times,  and  oi?»ing 
to  the  great  depth  of  water  and  the  steepness  of  both  sides,  it  is 
not  so  difficult  to  pass,  even  in  stormy  weather,  as  one  would 
suppose.  This  village,  now  for  some  unaccountable  reason 
styled  *  Killarney,'  with  the  exception  of  a  store,  post-office, 
and  diminutive  Roman  Catholic  church,  is  a  mere  collection  of 
fishing  huts  and  Indian  camps.  It  derives  its  original  name, 
as  indeed  do  most  of  these  Indian  localities —from  a  natural 
characteristic.  That  name  signifies  *  Here's  a  channel^'  and  it 
amounts  to  a  piece  of  great  impertinence  on  the  part  of  any 
one  to  destroy  its  adaptability  by  substituting  Killarney,  or 
any  other,  for  it.  The  population  numbers  somewhere  about  40 
whites  and  half-breedj^  with  an  occasional  accession  to  the 
Indian  residents,  bringing  it  to  an  average  between  60  and  70. 
They  employ  themselves  almost  entirely  in  the  pursuits  o^'  trad- 
ing, hunting,  and  fishing,  but  make  no  attempt  at  cultivation, 


not  even  sc 

tolerably  g« 

an  odd  visit 

the  Church 

which  occai 

horn  instead 

of  those  lov< 

northern  cc 

bling  the  fai 

and  closing 

which  here 

steamer  doe; 

the  island, : 

back  throu^ 

entered  fron 

to  have  threi 

the  enchant] 

side  adds  del 

of  this  islar 

steamer   her 

miles.     At  t] 

Grand   Man: 

to  find  a  hosi 

of  trumpery 

annually  ai 

marvelous  si 

Father,"  wh| 

no  wharf,  br 

steamboat  si] 

is  laid  from 

altogether  ii 

Indian  Resej 

the  market 

descriptive 

For  such  pu| 

the  *  small- 

barkation  ol 

heterogeneoi 

"The  bell 

Fitzwilliam,) 

of  this  gro( 

l^arrie  and 

The  La  Clocl 

included  inf 

guished  by 

a  portion  of) 

Manitoulin,f 


OOLl.lSOWUOD    TO    SAUT    8TE    MARIE. 


39 


not  even  so  much  ns  a  cabbage-garden,  althougb  there  is  some 
tolerably  good  land  in  the  vicinity.  Now  and  again  they  have 
an  od<l  visit  from  the  Jesuit  priests  at  the  Wequamekong,  and 
the  Church  of  England  Missionary  at  Manitonwahning ;  on 
which  occasions  the  parishioners  are  called  together  by  a  tin 
horn  instead  of  a  bell.  Just  inside  She-ba-wa-nah-ning  is  one 
of  those  lovely  bayous  so  common  alon^  the  rocky  and  indented 
northern  coast,  with  countless  small  islets,  very  much  resem- 
bling the  famous  '  Thousand  Islands*  in  the  river  St.  Lawrence; 
and  closing  it  in  on  three  sides  are  the  La  Cloche  Mountains, 
which  here  rise  abruptly  to  a  considerable  altitude.  The 
steamer  does  not  return  by  the  same  channel,  but  passes  around 
the  island,  forming  its  boundary  on  the  lake  side.  Looking 
back  through  the  narrow  strip  of  water  by  which  we  have 
entered  from  the  main  lake,  it  seems  a  fairy-like  performance 
to  have  threaded  so  small  a  gorge  with  this  huge  steamboat,  and 
the  enchanting  wildncss  of  the  scenery  that  bounds  us  on  every 
side  adds  delight  to  such  surprise.  On  rounding  the  west  point 
of  this  island,  the  lake  opens  out  again  before  us,  and  our 
steamer  heads  toward  Manitonwahning,  distant  about  27 
miles.  At  the  head  of  Heywood  Sound,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Grand  Manitoulin,  is  situated  the  village,  where  wt  expect 
to  find  a  host  of  '*  aborigines"  awaiting  the  receipt  of  a  cargo 
of  trumpery  by  means  of  which  the  commissariat  manages  to 
annually  amuse  their  uncultivated  fancies  and  illustrate  the 
marvelous  solicitude  entertained  for  them  by  their  "Great 
Father,"  w^ho,  in  the  present  instance,  is  a  Mother.  There  is 
no  wharf,  but  the  water  is  so  deep  close  in  shore,  that  the 
dteamboat  sidles  up  to  a  low,  gravelly  beach,  and  our  gangway 
is  laid  from  her  side  to  land  with  perfect  ease.  As  it  seems  not 
altogether  improbable  that  the  chain  of  islands  constituting  an 
Indian  Reserve  in  this  locality  must  ere  long  be  brought  into 
the  market  for  sale,  it  may  prove  serviceable  to  publish  a  few 
descriptive  particulars  relating  to  their  position  and  quality. 
For  such  purpose,  then,  I  shall  here  briefly  relate  them  while 
the  '  small-boy'  in  treasury  uniform  is  superintending  the  em- 
barkation of  government  presents  to  be  distributed  among  that 
heterogeneous  and  expectant  multitude  before  us. 

"  The  belt  of  islands  known  as  the  Manitoulins  embraces 
Fitzwilliam,  an  unimportant  island  southeast  of  the  princip;»l 
of  this  group,  the  3rand  Manitoulin,  and  others,  of  wlioh 
Barrie  and  Cockburn  islands  are  the  only  ones  worthy  of  note. 
The  La  Cloche  and  St.  Joseph  Island  are  sometimes  erroneously 
included  in  the  general  denomination;  but  they  are  distin- 
guished by  being  crown  properties,  while  the  Manitoulins  form 
a  portion  of  the  Indian  Reserves.  With  the  exception  of  Great 
Manitoulin,  none  of  these  islands  are  of  much  consequence  in 


n 


i^  -f  r 


40 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    8AUT    8TE    MARIB. 


in 


\ 


I 


point  of  value.  The  timber  thereupon  would  indicate  soil  of  a 
workable  description,  but  their  rocky  elevation  seems  to  deny 
the  existence  of  fertile  tracts  of  any  appreciable  extent.  The 
Grand  Manitoulin  is  eighty-one  miles  in  length,  a?  d  averages 
about  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  has  an  area  of  at  least  sixteen 
hundred  square  miles.  Its  geological  features  present  nothing 
remarkable.  The  soil,  over  a  limestone  structure,  with  a  lower 
fossiliferous  bed  of  extraordinary  depth,  is  rich ;  and  there  is 
an  abundance  of  soft  and  hard  lumber  covering  it  throughout. 
I  am  unaware  whether  or  not  any  portions  of  it  have  been  sur- 
veyed. Certainly  the  sooner  something  practical  is  done  in  the 
way  of  cultivating  it  the  better.  It  may  be  rather  an  easy  ad- 
ministration of  that  heirloom  of  titled  boobies  and  aristocratic 
sprigs,  the  Indian  Department,  to  keep  these  reserved  lands 
locked  up  in  the  chimerical  pretense  of  benefiting  the  Indians. 
The  majority  of  Indians  derive  no  real  advantage  from  them — 
will  certainly  never  cultivate  them — and,  therefore,  their  con- 
tinuous reservation  operates  but  as  a  bar  to  the  settlement 
of  adjacent  territories.  The  villages  of  Wequamekong  and 
Manitouwahning  are  the  only  extensive  settlements  of  pre- 
tension upon  the  Manitoulin  Islands.  The  latter  being  the 
place  where  we  had  just  landed  at  the  above  digression,  is  the 
locale  of  the  government  agency,  and  the  appointed  residence 
of  Captain  Ironsides,  the  local  superintendent.  In  other  words, 
it  is  the  head- quarters  of  the  Indian  Department.  As  a  culti- 
vated spot  it  has  a  very  enticing  appearance.  The  site  is  favor- 
able, in  sopie  respects,  for  a  village,  but  building  frame  houses 
for  savages,  and  neither  clearing  off  the  stones  at  similar  cost, 
nor  teaching  the  natives  themselves  to  do  so,  and  afterward  to 
plant  gardens,  potatoes,  corn  and  maize  fields,  is  not  a  model 
plan  of  carrying  out  the  objects  of  such  selections.  The  present 
condition  of  this  place  is  the  best  proof.  The  white  inhabitants 
residing  here  number  abuut  thirty ;  the  Indian  population  fluc- 
tuates between  six  or  seven  hundred  and  two  thousand.  These, 
however,  seem  never  to  have  appreciated  the  wooden  domiciles 
erected  for  them,  as  upward  of  sixteen  frame  houses  in  the 
village  are  forsaken,  and  the  remainder  may  be  said  to  merely 
serve  as  a  shelter  for  the  families  living  in  them,  as  they  have 
no  signs  of  improvement  near  or  far.  There  is  a  neat  little 
churdi  in  the  villace,  and  a  resident  minister  of  the  Church  of 
England.  There  also  is  a  '  medicine  man.'  The  residences  of 
these  gentlemen  and  that  of  Captain  Ironsides  are  very  com- 
fortable dwellings.  About  £600  worth  of  goods  were  landed 
as  presents.  They  consist  principally  of  blankets,  trinkets, 
calicoes,  pork,  flour,  and  a  small  quantity  of  ammunition.  It 
was  the  custom  formerly  to  give  them  articles  adapted  to  their 
habitual  pursuits,  such  as  shot,  guns,  rifles,  knives,  ammuni- 


tion, kettles 

things  hav( 

of  authorit; 

or  three  we' 

now  present 

Chippewas,  i 

awares  used 

is  no  great 

deed,   at  th 

attended,  in 

former  years 

and  before  i 

will  most  pro 

about  these  li 

steps  of  the  p 

*'  The  next 

of  friends,  to 

Jesuit  mis.sioi 

Tt  was  reach( 

neck  of  the  pe 

Heywood  Sour 

be  much  mor 

island.     The 

situated,  and 

Indians  here  a. 

and  they  appej 

had  seen  else^ 

patches  of  bean 

garden  vegetal 

*  numbering  of 

opportunity  to  i 

were  astonished 

The  villagers  al 

scarce  believed 

goods  as  their  ♦  i 

Jesuits  have  car 

praiseworthy  ms 

tites,  an  agreeal: 

almost  envy,  our 

steamboat  on  Sui 

the  sight  of  Capt 

newalofouracq 

tiie  ColHngwood 

"  After  leavini 

wreat  Manitoulii 

next  stopping.pla 

Picruresque  clust( 


ai 


COLLING  ^VOOD    TO    SA.UT    STE    MARIE. 


41 


tion,  kettles,  hatchets,  etc. ;  but  the  most  serviceable  of  these 
things  have  been  discontinued,  in  accordance  with  the  wisdom 
of  authority.  It  occupies  the  officers  in  charge  sometimes  two 
or  three  weeks  dispensing  these  articles.  The  scraps  of  tribes 
now  present  to  receive  these  gifts  belong  mostly  to  the  Ottawas, 
Cliippewas,  and  Pottawatamies.  Some  few  Munsees  and  Del- 
awares  used  at  one  time  to  frequent  the  station,  but  now  there 
is  no  great  variety  of  tribes  about  any  part  of  the  lake.  In- 
deed, at  this  annual  distribution  but  a  very  few  Indians 
attended,  in  comparison  with  the  multitudinous  attendance  of 
former  years.  The  *  forest  children*  are  annually  fading  away, 
and  before  many  more  winters  and  summers  have  elapsed  it 
will  most  probably  be  as  rare  a  thing  to  find  a  handful  of  them 
about  these  lakes,  as  it  was  in  earlier  days  to  discover  the  foot- 
steps of  the  pale-face  away  up  in  these  northern  wilds. 

"  The  next  day  we  accompanied  Captain  Ironsides,  and  a  party 
of  friends,  to  the  Indian  village  of  Wequamekong.  (This  is  the 
Jesuit  mission  mentioned  in  the  preceding  part  of  my  letter.) 
It  was  reached  by  a  portage  of  about  seven  miles  across  the 
neck  of  the  peninsular  promontory  which  forms  the  east  side  of 
Heywood  Sound.  The  land  through  which  we  passed  is  said  to 
be  much  more  fertile  than  that  in  any  other  section  of  the 
island.  The  village  of  Wequamekong  is  quite  romantically 
situated,  and  is  altogether  a  very  pretty  little  place.  The 
Indians  here  are  remnants  of  the  Chippewa  and  Ottawa  tribes, 
and  they  appear  cleaner,  more  industrious,  and  civilized  than  I 
had  seen  elsewhere.  They  have  fine  fields  of  Indian  corn, 
patches  of  beans,  potatoes,  etc.,  and  quite  a  respectaWe  show  of 
garden  vegetables.  We  witnessed  an  interesting  sight  in  the 
*  numbering  of  the  tribes'  by  Captain  Ironsides.  It  gave  us  an 
opportunity  to  see  some  fine-looking  old  chiefs,  several  of  whom 
were  astonished  at  the  idea  of  having  their  likenesses  taken. 
The  villagers  also  turned  out  in  holiday .a,ttire.  We  could  have 
scarce  believed  it  possible  they  were  so  well  to  do  in  worldly 
goods  as  their  •  fashionable'  habiliments  denoted.  Certainly  the 
Jesuits  have  carried  out  their  mission  at  this  village  in  the  most 
praiseworthy  manner.  What  with  good  spirits,  ravenous  appe- 
tites, an  agreeable  host,  and  the  weather  that  an  Italian  might 
almost  envy,  our  time  glid  swiftly  away  until  the  return  of  the 
steamboat  on  Sunday  morning.  And  contented  as  we  had  been, 
the  sight  of  Captain  Butterworth's  jovial  countenance,  and  a  re- 
newal of  our  acquaintance  with  the  *  quite  at  home'  comforts  of 
the  Collrngwoodt  were  abundantly  relished. 

"  After  leaving  Manitouwahning  (on  Friday),  we  have  the 
Great  Manitoulin  on  our  left;  and  up  to  Little  Current,  the 
next  stopping-place,  30  miles  farther  on,  the  course  lies  through 
picruresquo  clusters  of  low  islands,  scantily  wooded,  and  covered 


i'  .i}, 


u. 


1^*1 'li 


ti. 


42 


COLLINGWOOD    TO    8AUT    STE    MARIE. 


in  the  open  parts  with  a  rank  growth  of  dry-looking  wild  grass, 
and  diversified  by  clumps  of  dwrarfish  pines  and  firs.  There  is 
here  a  small  settlement  of  Indians  and  half-breeds.  They 
furnish  wood  for  the  steamer,  and  likewise  supply  meat,  fish, 
vegetables,  etc.  At  dark  we  cast  off  from  Little  Current. 
Thence  our  passage  was  among  woody  islands,  and  through 
narrow  but  deep  channels,  the  main  shore  of  Manitoulin  always 
within  sight,  and  now  and  then  opening  out  into  a  wider  sheet 
of  water;  so  that  the  whole  course  seems  to  be  alternate  narrow 
straits  and  small  lakes.  From  Little  Current  to  the  Bruce 
Mines  the  distance  is  nearly  120  miles,  and  between  the  west 
end  of  Manitoulin  and  the  north  shore,  for  some  distance,  the 
channel  is  very  broad.  We  passed  this  during  the  night-time. 
It  was  a  clear  moonlight  night ;  and  we  could  see  by  the  drift- 
ing clouds  that  hovered  above  the  Great  Manitoulin,  how  rude 
Boreas  was  indulging  himself  with  a  jolly  blow  outside,  in  tha 
lake,  while  not  a  gust  moved  the  surface  of  this  inside  lake, 
through  which  our  steamboat  smoothly  plowed  her  way.  After 
a  short  stay  at  the  mines,  we  proceeded  onward  to  Saut  Ste 
Marie,  landing  once  more,  en  voyage^  at  Sugar  Island.  The 
village  of  St.  Mary,  or  Saut  Ste  Marie,  is  so  well  known  to  most 
people,  I  shall  not  bore  the  reader  with  any  description  of  it. 
Suffice  to  say,  the  canal  on  the  American  side  has  helped  to  build 
up  that  part  at  the  expense  of  its  opposite  settlement.  The  in- 
habitants, however,  seem  to  have  nothing  else  to  do  besides 
smoking,  drinking  gin-slings  and  mint-juleps,  and  catching  fish. 

"Dr.  Jackson  states  that  the  healthiness. of  the  climate  in 
these  parts  during  summer  months  is  unsurpassable,  and,  above 
all  other  places,  is  calculated  to  restore  the  health  of  invalids 
suffering  from  the  depressive  miasms  of  the  fever-breeding 
Southwestern  States,  or  the  pent-up  enervating  atmosphere  of 
Eastern  cities. 

*'  This  route  along  the  North  Channel,  for  the  safe  conveyance 
of  merchandise  and  all  perishable  goods,  is  infinitely  preferable 
to  that  usually  traveled  across  the  lakes,  filling  up  as  it  does  a 
distance  of  not  less  than  4G0  miles  of  rough  lake  navigation  by 
a  pleasant  course  sheltered  from  storms  and  affording  a  diversity 
of  scenery  calculated  to  relieve  the  tedium  of  so  long  a  voyage." 


ST.  JOSEPH  ISLAND,  0.  W. 
This  important  island,  lying  in  St.  Miiry's  River,  near  its 
outlet  into  Lake  Huron,  is  thus  described  by  T.  N.  Moles- 
worth,  provincial  land  surveyor,  and  may  answer  in  p"^ 


COLUXOWOOD    TO    8AUT    STE    MARIE. 


43 


rass, 

sre  is 

They 

,  fish, 

•rent. 

rough 

Iways 

sheet 
arrow 
Bruce 
e  west 
Be,  the 
[i-time. 
3  drift- 
w  rude 
in  th3 
,e  lake. 

After 
aut  Ste 
i.  The 
to  moat 
311  of  it. 
to  build 
The  in- 

besides 
ing  fish, 
imate  in 
id,  above 

invalids 
breeding 

(here  of 

iveyance 
referable 
it  does  a 
ration  by 
[diversity 
voyage." 


near  ita 

.  MOLES- 

in  p 


for  a  description  of  Drummond  and  Sugar  islands,  lying  con- 
tiguous and  belonging  to  the  United  States. 

"The  surface  along  the  southern  and  southwestern  shores 
of  St.  Joseph  Island  is  generally  flat,  low,  and  swampy,  being 
in  many  places  wet,  and  very  thick'  timbered.  The  northern, 
northeastern,  and  eastern  shores,  in  general,  rise  with  a  gentle 
inclination  from  the  shore,  being  swampy  only  for  a  s^ort  dis- 
tance inward ;  and  along  the  northerly  shore  of  Point-au-Gra- 
vier  there  is  a  precipitous  rise  of  about  30  feet  in  height.  The 
highest  hill,  near  the  center  of  the  island,  has  an  elevation  of 
about  400  feet. 

"  The  island  is  generally  well  watered,  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  streams  rising  in  the  swamps  in  the  interior,  and  enter- 
ing the  lake.  The  principal  one  is  that  having  its  source  in 
Lake  Hilton,  which  enters  Milford  Haven  with  a  rapid  cu  rrent, 
and  having  a  very  good  mill-site  near  its  mouth,  and  a.  con- 
stant supply  of  water,  and  also  entering  a  safe  and  capacious 
harbor,  is  the  best  adapted  for  the  use  of  the  island.  The 
other  streams  iire  of  small  size,  but  appear  to  have  a  constant 
supply  of  Water. 

"  The  surface  soil  is  almost  generally  a  red  sandy  loam,  or 
clay  and  sand  mixed  with  mold ;  but  in  some  places  a  w^hite 
sand  appears ;  in  others  a  brown  or  red  clay ;  under  this  there 
is  a  stiff  clay,  some  places  of  a  reddish  color,  in  others  nearly 
white,  which  crumbles  when  exposed  to  the  surface. 

'*Very  little  rock  appears  anywhere  on  St.  Joseph  Island, 
and  only  on  the  shore .;  small  particles  of  quartz  rock  rising 
aboat  ten  feet  above  tlie  surface,  appear  atPayme-day-giundeg. 
In  the  channel  opposite  Campement  D'Ours  Island  a  mass  of 
syenitic  granite  puts    ^nt   in   irregular   points,   some  parts 
rising  about  20  feet  above  ihc  water.    In  Lot  10,  Concession  V., 
white  sandstone  appears  just  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  at 
the  level  of  its  surface;  and  in  the  Point-au-Gravier  Conces- 
[Bion,  blue  limestone  app^iara  rising  abruptly  from  the  water  to 
[the  height  of  30  feet — in  the  horizontal  strata,  of  from  six 
ches  to  a  foot  in  thickress.      It  is  used  for  making  lime  and 
ttilding  at  the  Bruce  Mines,  and  by  the  inhabitants. 
"  The  island  is  closely  wooded ;  the  timber  on  the  hills  and 
Iry  surface  being  maple,  beech,  birch— often  mixed  with  hem- 
It  -<;odar,  spruce,  basswood,  and  elm.      In  some  parts  the 
ber  is  all  maple,  and  a  great  deal  of  it  is  bird*8-eye  and 
rly  maple— the  latter*  mostly  where  the  surface  is  stony.     In 
e  swamps  the  timber  is  cedar,  spruce,  balsam,  hemlock,  pine, 
id  tamarack — generally  growing  very  densely  in  most  of  the 
amp& — the  cedar  predominating — in  some,  Uie  tamarack  or 
>rt  Bnice. 


'  %.: 


♦< 


■  W  J 


i'  nl 


44  COL..ISOW00U   TO    S^OT    8TE    MAB.K. 

..  WUH  re.a.a  *o  the  capa^''^^- ""^^t  t'afS^^^ 

l''*'^^'  Te  harve^  commences  about    he  mddle  of^^J  ^^^^ 
crops.  .  The  "^T^  of  toe  fish  »  ]„„?,,   the  following 

pla^ea     Tenby  Bay  j;^h    ^  ^  th  very  abundant,) 

tl.e  mi**?., f„kTa"3,  pike,  »»>! /''^Jr^iery^  andiuM«d 
Joseph,  ^f^^rtd  there  is  a  hernng  Bf «'?  \  American 
Opposite  Sugar  "l^na  i  ^^  Matelote,  on  the  A 

**rKke  freezes  over  geueraUy »  t^«^  ,^^  ^,,u.jA 

ojnd  the  snow  uc    r      -^^j^e  of  April ;  «s/^*^^  Jf .     \uq  lowest 
of  P3cember  to  *f.^'^l.eatest  about  four  feet,     ino 


COLLTNGV/OOD    TO    8AUT    STE    M\RIK. 


45 


nent, 
—the 
idows 

L  corn, 
prov- 

let  foT 
whicli 

I  Amer- 

Lut  Ste 


Saut  Stk  Marie,  capital  of  Chippewa  Co.,  Mich.,  is  advan- 
tageously situated  on  St.  Mary's  River,  or  Strait,  350  miles 
N.N.W.  of  Detroit,  and  15  miles  from  the  foot  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior, in  N.  lat.  4G°  ST.  The  rapids  at  this  place,  giving 
the  name  to  the  settlements  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  have 
a  descent  of  20  feet,  within  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  form 
the  natural  limit  of  navigation.  The  Ship  Canal,  however, 
which  has  recently  been  constructed  on  the  American  side, 
i  obviate ,*s  this  difficulty.  Steamers  of  a  large  class  now  pass 
throu£;h  the  locks  into  Lake  Superior,  greatly  facilitating  trade 
and  commerce.  The  village  on  the  American  side  is  pleasantly 
situated  near  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  contains  a  court-house 
and  jail ;  a  Baptist,  a  Methodist,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  church ; 
15  or  20  stores  and  storehouses,  besides  a  few  manufacturing 
lestablishments,  and  about  1 ,000  inhabitants.     Many  of  the  in- 


middle 
BW  days 
ure  any 
August, 
^und  the 
rollow'ng 
ely  after 
,  or  St. 

^^  Mud  f^bi^^ants  and  Indians  in  the  vicinity  are  engaged  in  the  fur 
American  Itrade  and  fisheries,  the  latter  being  an  important  and  profit- 
ble  occupation.  Summer  visitors  flock  to  this  place  and  the 
ake  Superior  co\intry  for  health  and  pleasure.  There  are  two 
otels  on  the  American  side,  and  one  on  the  Canadian  side  of 
e  river,  affording  good  accommodations. 
Fort  Brady  is  in  old  and  important  United  States  military 
it  contiguous  to  this  frontier  -village,  where  is  stationed  a 
)th  is  fromBegular  garrison  of  troops.  It  commands  the  St.  Mary's  River 
The  lowe  ■  ^  tjjQ  approach  to  the  mouth  of  the  canal. 
^  coWB  Saut  Ste  Marie,  C.  W.,  is  a  scattered  settlement,  where  is 

ated  a  part  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.    Here  is  a  steam- 
at  landing,  an  hotel,  and  two  or  three  stores,  including  the 
udson  Bay  Company's;  and  it  has  from  200  to  300  inhabit- 
ts.    Indians  of  the  Chippewa  tribe  reside  in  the  vicinity  in 
nsiderable  numbers,  they  having  the  exclusive  right  to  take 
it  in  the  waters  contiguous  to  the  rapids.     They  also  employ 
emselves  in  running  the  rapids  in  their  frail  canoes,  when 
ired  by  citizens  or  strangers — this  being  one  of  the  most 
ilarating  enjoyments  for  those  fond  of  aquatic  sports.   (See 
graving.) 


des  these 
in  all  the 
to  the  in- 
id  a  num- 
etc. 

ile  of  Be- 
,  1st  May; 
the  middle 


verage 
,  July,  an< 
zero;  a^^r 


lands  I 
of  Cana<i» 
ation* 


.t 


w 


!ii 


6' 

THE  I 

Tills  Canal,  y^ 

itli  the  Lower 

incl  cost  about  a 

It  was  built  i 

'alls  Ship  CanaJ 

;is  appointed  bj 

[ccure  the  buildi; 

A  grant  of  76C 

m  made  by  Coi 

instruction  of  th 

This  grant  of  7/ 

igfor  the  buildi 

ompleted  within 

The  work  was  cc 

pthin  the  time  sp 

This  result  was 

iring  a  very  sick 

krienced  in  obtai: 

ose  who  had  the 

lemostsubstantij 

paring  a  great 

""  men  employe 

ferent  quarries 

[fa,  besides  a  la) 

ttiDg  timber,  etcf 

■"le  stones  for  th| 

^Iden),  and  at 

fe  sent  in  vessel^ 

vessels  being  ei 

^n  the  completiol 

l^iie  State,  the 

-eeded  to  Saut 

^'^    It  was  accej 

of  the  contrao 


ST.  MARY  8    FALLS    SIflP    CANAL. 


47 


fl: 

"I 

if'i 

'N 


THE  SAINT  MARY'S  FALLS  SHIP  CANAL. 
This  Canal,  which  connects  the  navigation  of  Lake  Superior 
f it'll  the  Lower  Lakes,  is  a  little  more  than  one  mile  in  length, 
nd  cost  about  one  million  dollars. 

It  was  built  in  the  years  1853,  '54,  '55  by  the  Saint  Mary's 
alls  Ship  Canal  Company,  under  a  contract  with  corcmission- 
rs  appointed  by  the  authorities  of  the  State  of  Michigan  to 
iccure  the  building  of  the  canal. 

A  grant  of  750,000  acres  of  the  public  land  had  previously 
n  made  by  Congress  to  '  State  of  Michigan  to  aid  in  the 
astruction  of  this  important  work. 

This  grant  of  750,000  acres  was  given  to  the  parties  contract- 
g  for  the  building  of  the  canal,  provided  the  work  should  be 
mpleted  within  two  years  from  the  date  of  the  contract. 
The  work  was  commenced  in  the  spring  of  1853,  and  completed 
ithin  the  time  specified  in  the  contract  {two  years  !). 
This  result  was  accomplished  under  many  disadvantages, 
ring  a  very  sickly  season,  and  when  great  difficulty  was  ex- 
rienced  in  obtaining  laborers ;  but  the  unremitting  vigor  of 
lOBe  who  had  the  charge  of  the  work  secured  its  completion  in 
e  most  substantial,  permanent,  and  acceptable  manner. 
Daring  a  great  portion  of  the  time  there  were  from  1 ,200  to 
men  employed  upon  the  work,  exclusive  of  the  force  at  the 
ferent  quarries  where  the  stone  was  cut  anc*  prepared  for  the 
iks,  besides  a  large  force  employed   in  necessary  agencies, 
ting  timber,  etc. 

e  stones  for  the  locks  were  cut  at  Anderden,  Canada  (near 
Men),  and  at  Marblehead,  near  Sandusky,  in  Ohio.     These 
e  sent  in  vessels  to  the  work,  some  twenty-five  different  sail- 
vessels  being  employed  in  this  business. 
n  the  completion  of  the  canal  in  June,  1855,  the  Governor 
the  State,  the  State  ofiicers,  alid  the  Canal  Commissioners 
eeded  to  Saut  Ste  Marie  for  the  purpose  of  inspecting  the 
i    It  was  accepted,  and  thereupon,  in  accordance  with  the 
of  the  contract,  the  State  authorities  released  to  the  Canal 


tXf^m- 


«i 


,4 


^         if' 


1.  ■  ' 


>^ 


I» 


II! 


*i 

i  i 


■:l 


m 


l^i 


1 


48 


ST.    MARY  8    FALLS    SHIP    CANAL. 


Company  and  issued  pn  'ents  for  the  750,000  acres  of  land.   This 
was  all  the  remuneration  the  company  received  for  the  work. 

The  lands  were  selected  during  the  building  of  the  canal  by 
ag(  nts  appointed  by  the  Governor  of  Michigan. 

Of  the  750,000  acres,  39,000  acres  were  selected  in  the  iron 
region  of  Lake  Superior,  147,000  acres  in  the  copper  region, 
and  the  balance,  504,000  acres,  in  the  Lower  Peninsula. 

The  following  figures  will  give  some  idea  of  the  magnitude  of 
this  work: 

Length  of  canal  6,584  feet,  ^^  1  mile  304  feet. 

Width  at  top  115  feet — at  water-line  100  feet — at  bottom  C4 
feet. 

The  depth  of  the  canal  is  1 2  feet. 

A  slope  wall  on  the  sides  of  the  canal  is  4,000  feet  in  length. 

There  are  two  locks,  each  350  feet  in  length. 

Width  of  locks  70  feet  at  top— 61 J  feet  at  bottom. 

The  walls  are  25  feet  high — 10  feet  thick  at  bott?  i. 

Lift  of  upper  lock  8  feet — lower  do.,  10  feetj  total  lockage | 
18  feet. 

Lower  wharf  180  feet  long,  20  feet  wide. 

Upper  wharf  830  feet  long,  from  16  to  30  feet  wide. 

There  are  three  pairs  of  folding  gates,  each  40  feet  wide. 

Upper  gate  17  feet  high— lower  gate  24  feet  6  inches  high. 

There  are  also  upper  and  lower  caisson  gates,  used  for  shutting  { 
off  the  water  from  the  canal. 

The  amount  of  lumber,  timber,  and  iron  used  in  the  buildingj 
of  the  piers  and  gates  is  enormous. 

There  were  103, 437  lbs  of  wrought  iron  used  in  the  gates,  and] 
88,000  lbs  cast  iron. 

About  8,000  feet  of  oak  timber,  etc. 

The  tolls  on  the  canal  are  collected  by  the  State— are  merely! 
nominal — and  only  intended  to  defray  the  necessary  expensefj 
of  repairs.  ' 


THK  UPPKK  LAKE  COUNTRY. 


THE  UPPER  LAKE  COUNTRY. 


49 


bottom  64 


iwide. 
les  high, 
br  shutting  I 

he  building 

gates,  and 

-are  merely 
ry  expenseB 


We  copy  the  following  extract  from  an  address  published  in 
the  Lansing  (Mich.)  Republican,  as  containing  interesting  in- 
formation regarding  the  Commerce  of  the  Upper  Lakes  : 

C.  T.  Harvey,  Esq.,  of  Lake  Superior,  agreeably  to  appoint- 
ment, made  an  address  in  the  Hall  of  the  House  of  Represent- 
atives on  the  subject  of  the  *•  present  state  and  future  prospects 
of  the  Commerce  of  Lake  Superior." 

"  As  to  the  past,  he  observed  that  in  1839  the  lirg'  steamer 
visited  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  to  the  great  ^astonishment  of  the 
Indians  who  lived  on  St.  Mary's  River.  That  in  1841  Capt. 
I  Ward  first  established  a  regular  steamboat  line  from  Detroit  to 
the  entrance  of  Lake  Superior  via  Mackinac.  That  in  1849 
Mr.  S.  McKnight  (a  member  of  the  house)  did  all  the  trans- 
portation ol  merchandise  aroiund  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary*s  with 
one  or  two  horses,  and  it  wos  not  till  1851  that  the  first  steamer 
[floated  on  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior  only  six  years  ago. 

'•  After  some  further  reminiscences  showing  at  how  very  re- 
Iccnt  a  date  business  in  that  q^iarter  had  commenced,  the  speaker 
(proceeded  to  the  present. 
"  He  referred  t<j  the  report  of  the  Superintendent  of  the  Saut 
^anal,  to  show  that  in  the  season  of  1856  just  closed  there  was 
over  11,000  tons  of  iron  ore  shipped  through  it  to  Detroit  and 
eastward.  An  increase  of  800  per  cent,  over  1855,  when  only 
1,400  tons  were  sent  down.  That  1,040  tons  Oi"  bloom  iron  were 
ent,  an  increase  of  25  per  cent. ;  but  the  most  remarkable  fact 
fas  that  ten  millions  four  hundred  and  fifty-two  thousand 
ounds  of  copper  were  sent  through  the  canal  in  the  raw  state 
)ver  two  and  a  quarter  millions  of  dollars— an  increase  of 
)me  67  per  cent.  Mr.  H.  remarked  that  this  noticeable  in- 
crease did  not  look  like  a  failure  of  the  mining  interests,  al- 
"lough  public  excitement  respecting  them  had  subsided. 
"  The  business  ea»j  tward  through  the  canal  of  mineral  and 
sh  exported  from  the  lake,  amounted  to,  ais  estimated  by  the 
Superintendent,  $2,876,000 ;  while  the  imports  of  merchandise 
[nd  supplies  were,  in  round  numbers,  $2,500,000 ;  making  a 
rtal  of  $5,375,000,  of  which  he  calculated  full  $5,000,000  was 
ammerce  of  the  Upper  Peninsula.  Remarking  that  a  trade 
*  this  magnitude,  which  had  sprung  up  out  of  nothing  within 
fteen  years,  must  in  the  next  fifteen  years  increase  in  almost 
ie  same  ratio,  till  the  results  would  be  almost  incredible,  he 
warded  the  conjecture,  that  within  25  years  as  many  vessels 
'  all  kinds  would  pass  and  re-pass  in  the  St.  Mary's  River,  as 
Dw  frequent  the  waters  of  the  St.  Clair." 

6 


''  n 


I 


t:     p 


•■«!!i 


|!!-  JJl 


TRIP  FROM   COLLING  WOOD  TO  MACKINAC,  GREEN 

BAY,  CHICAGO,  ETC. 


This  excursion  is  an  interesting  one  for  the  pleasure  traveler, 
as  'vcU  as  the  man  of  business.  The  steamer  on  leaving  Col- 
llngwood  runs  direct  for  Cabot* 8  Head,  80  miles,  skirting  the 
main  shore  of  Canada  to  Cape  Huniy  about  20  miles  farther, 
passing  the  Bear's  Rump,  Flower  Pot,  Echo  and  Cove  islands. 

Yeo  Island  and  Fitz  William  Island  (a  large  island)  arc 
seen  on  the  north;  several  smaller  islands  are  also  passed,  when 
the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Huron  are  entered,  the  steamers 
usually  running  direct  for  Mackinac. 

The  Great  Manitoulin  may  be  seen  in  the  distance, 
toward  the  north,  in  pleasant  weather,  and  the  Outer  Duck 
and  Great  Duck  islands  are  passed  about  80  miles  westward 
of  Cape  Hurd. 

The  steamer  then  pursues  a  westerly  course  toward  Mackinac, 
about  100  miles  farther,  sighting  Presque  Isle  on  the  maiu 
Michigan  shore,  and  passing  Bois  Blanc  and  Round  islands. 
The  Straits  of  Mackinac  are  now  entered,  being  here  about 
twenty  miles  across,  but  soon  diminishes  in  width;  opposite 
old  Fort  Mackinac  it  is  four  or  five  miles  in  width. 

The  Straits  of  Mackinac,  with  the  approaches  thereto 
from  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan,  will  always  command  atten* 
tion  from  the  passing  traveler.  Through  this  channel  will  pass, 
for  ages  to  come,  a  great  current  of  commerce,  and  its  shores 
will  be  enlivened  with  civilized  life,  where  at  present  the  Indian  > 
now  lingers,  but,  alas !  is  fast  fading  away. 

It  is  proposed  to  construct  a  railroad  running  from  Detroit  I 
or  Saginaw  to  Old  Fort  Mackinac,  which,  when  completed,  -will 
tend  to  open  the  whole  northern  portion  of  this  part  of  the 
State  of  Michigan,  one  of  the  most  favorably  situated  States  of 


the  whole  Un 

ral  productic 

qiLintitics  of 

Iji  this  gret 

a»x)iit  180  mil 

nc-is  and  its  a 

Lake  Huron  i 

the  voyage  wil 

Mackinac, 

any  other  locf 

turesque  beau 

Hore  the  invali 

man  and  angl 

during  warm  v 

On  leaving  I 

runs  a  west  coi 

islands  in  Lake 

Bay,  about  150 

SU.AIAIER  Isi 

lies  on  the  sout 
charming  view 
Potawatom 
small  islands,  i 
head  of  the  baj 
Grken  Bay 
wide,  is  a  sple: 
enlivened  with 
to  bo  saen  a 
S3V3ral  importi 
of  which  is  Nee| 
of  Winnebago 
between  the  s( 
into  the  bay  opi 

The  town  of 
Ifiaely  situated 
entrance  into 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    MACKINAC,    ETC. 


51 


the  whole  Union ;  having  two  peninsulas,  rich  in  soil  and  mine- 
ral productions,  and  from  which  are  now  exported  immense 
quantities  of  lumber,  copper,  and  iron  ore. 

In  this  great  commercial  route  Lake  Huron  is  traversed  for 
about  180  miles,  often  affording  the  traveler  a  taste  of  sea-sick- 
ness and  its  consequent  evils.  Yet  there  often  are  times  when 
Lake  Huron  is  hardly  ruffled,  and  the  timid  ■  -^ngcr  enjoys 
the  voyage  with  as  much  zest  as  the  more  exp«  .i'  rrjed  mariner. 

Mackinac,  the  gem  of  the  Upper  Lake  islun  a,  may  vie  with 
any  other  locality  for  the  salubrity  of  its  climate,  for  its  pic- 
turesque beauties,  and  for  its  vicinity  to  fine  fisliing-grounds. 
Hare  the  invalid,  the  seeker  of  pleasure,  as  well  as  the  sports- 
man and  angler,  can  find  enjoyment  to  their  heart's  cout.'ut 
durin;;  warm  weather.     For  further  dasoription  see  page  110. 

On  leaving  Mackinac  for  Green  Bay  the  steamer  generally 
runs  a  west  course  for  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  passing  several 
islands  in  Lake  Michigan  before  entering  the  waters  of  Green 
Bay,  about  150  miles  distant. 

Su-AiMKR  Island  lies  on  the  north  side  and  Rock  Island 
lies  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance  to  Green  Bay,  forming  a 
charming  view  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer. 

POTAWATOMEE    IsLAND,     CHAMBERS*     IsLAND,     and     OtllCr 

small  islands,  are  next  passed  on  the  upward  trip  toward  tho 
I  head  of  the  bay. 

Grken  Bay,  about  100  miles  long  and  from  20  to  30  miles 
j  wide,  is  a  splendid  sheet  of  water,  destined  no  doubt  to  be 
enlivened  with  commerce  and  pleasure  excursions.  Here  are 
to  be  seen  a  number  of  picturesque  islands  and  headlands. 
Sjvoral  important  streams  enter  into  Green  Bay,  the  largest 
of  which  is  Neenah  or  Fox  River,  at  its  head,  ar>d  is  the  outlet 
of  Winnebago  Lake.  Mcnomonce  River  forms  the  boundary 
between  the  States  of  Wisconsin  and  Michigan,  and  empties 
|iiito  the  bay  opposite  Green  Island. 

The  town  of  GreexV  Bay,  the  capital  of  Brown  Co.,  Wis.,  is 
[finely  situated  near  the  mouth  of  Foi  or  Neenah  River,  at  its 
laitrancc  into  Green  Bay,  where  is  a  good  and  secure  harbor. 


^mmmmmmi\m- 


i 


i 


w. 


52 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    MACKINAC,    ETC. 


It  lies  25  miles  due  west  of  Kewaunee,  on  the  west  sbore  of 
Lake  Michigan,  and  115  miles  north  from  Milwaukee.  The 
town  is  handsomely  situated,  and  contains  many  large  ware- 
houses and  elegant  residences,  together  with  several  churches, 
hotels,  and  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  about  8,000  inhab' 
ita)its.  The  improvement  of  Fox  River  by  dams  and  locks,  in 
Connection  with  the  improvements  on  the  Wisconsin  River, 
afford  an  uninterrupted  steam  navigation  from  Green  Bay  to 
Prairie  du  Chien,  on  the  Mississippi  River — thus  making  Green 
Bay  a  great  point  for  the  trans-shipment  of  goods  and  produce 
of  every  variety ;  the  largest  class  steamers  running  to  Chicago 
on  the  south,  Saut  Ste  Marie  on  the  north,  as  well  as  to  Colling. 
wood,  to  Detroit,  and  to  Buffalo  on  the  east.  The  lumber  trade 
of  Green  Biy  is  immense,  this  whole  section  of  country  abound- 
ing  in  timber  of  different  kinds  the  most  useful  for  building 
purposes. 

AsTOR  is  the  name  of  a  suburb  of  Green  Bay,  lying  at  the 
mouth  of  Fox  River,  while  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream 
stands  Fort  Howard^  surrounded  by  a  village  of  the  same 
name. 

Nenomonee  City,  Oconto  Co.,  Wis.,  is  a  new  settlement,! 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  Green  Bay,  near  the  mouth  of  Ne- 
nomonee River.    The  country  to  the  west  and  north  of  tfiis 
place  is  as  yet  a  wilderness,  inhabited  only  by  a  few  roving  | 
Indians. 

In  regard  to  the  route  from  Green  Bay  to  Lake  Superior,  the| 
Advoeace  says : 

'•  A  road  from  Green  Bay  to  the  most  southerly  point  of  Kee- 
wenaw  would  be  less  than  200  miles  in  length,  and  while  it 
would  shorten  the  travel  over  the  present  route  (by  water)  at| 
loast  100  miles,  would  open  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  fer- 
tile sections  in  the  Union— a  section  which  will  remain  unknown  I 
and  unoccupied  until  such  a  road  is  opened  by  the  governiiient.f 
The  Lake  Superior  people  need  it  most  especially  for  procuringj 
supplies,  driving  cattle,  etc. 

*'  The  traveler  finds  the  whole  distance,  to  within  a  few  miieij 
of  Lake  Superior,  abounding  in  every  resource  which  will  make] 
a  country  wealthy  and  prosperous.    Clear,  beautiful  lake.<t 


COLLINGWOOD    TO    MACKINAC,    ETC. 


53 


interspersed,  and  these  have  plenty  of  largo  trout  and  other 
fish.  Water  and  water  powers  are  everywhere  to  be  found,  and 
the  timber  is  of  the  best  kind — maple  groves,  beech,  oak,  pinfe, 
etc.  Nothing  is  now  wanted  but  a  few  roads  to  open  this 
rich  country  to  the  settler,  and  it  will  soon  teem  with  vil- 
lages, schools,  mills,  farming  operations,  and  every  industrial 
pursuit  which  the  more  southern  portion  of  our  State  now  es- 
liibits." 

Fox  or  JVeenah  River  vise?  in  Marquette  Co.,  Wis.,  and 
I  passing  through  Lake  Winnebago,  forms  its  outlet.  This  im- 
portant stream  is  rendered  navigable  for  steamers  of  a  small 
class  by  means  of  dams  and  locks,  forming  in  connection  with  a 
jsliort  canal  to  the  Wisconsin  River  a  direct  water  communica- 
tion from  Green  Pay  to  the  Mississippi  River,  a  distance  of 
about  200  milesf  The  rapids  in  the  lower  part  of  Fox  River 
afford  an  immense  water-power,  while  the  upper  section  of 
country  through  which  it  flows,  produces  lumber  and  grain  in 
I  great  abundance. 

Appleton,  Outaganie  Co.,  Wis.,  is  situated  on  Fox  or  Nee- 
Inah  River,  30  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Green  Bay,  and  five 
miles  from  Lake  Winnebago,  where  are  rapids  called  the 
Grand  Chute.  Here  the  river  descends  about  30  feet  in  one 
mile  and  a  half,  affording  an  inexhaustible  amount  of  water- 
poVer.  Here  are  located  two  flouring  mills,  four  saw  mills,  a 
paper  mill,  and  sash  factory.  This  is  the  capital  of  the  county, 
and  is  no  doubt  destined  to  become  a  large  manufacturing  and 
commercial  place,  from  the  facilities  which  it  possesses,  by 
Imeans  of  navigation  and  hydraulic  power.  Steamers  run  south 
|into  Lake  Winnebago,  and  north  into  Green  Bay. 

Neenah,  situated  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Winnebago,  where 
Icommences  the  river  improvement,  is  a  growing  place.  Here 
[is  a  fine  water-power,  which  gives  motion  to  several  mills. 

The  City  of  Oshkosh,  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Win- 
nebago, is  a  flourishing  place,  and  the  capital  of  Winnebago 
bounty.  Wis.  It  contains  the  county  buildings,  7  churches,  a 
md-oflBce,  several  public  houses,  40  or  50  stores  of  different 
^ds,  2  steam  grist-mills,  12  steam  saw-mills,  2  iron  foundries, 

6* 


54 


COLLINOWOOD    TO    MACKINAC,    ETC. 


and  a  number  of  other  manufacturing  establishments,  and  about 
7,500  inhabitants. 

The  Fox  and  Wb//*  rivers  uniting,  form  a  large  and  important 
stream,  flowing  into  the  lake  at  Oshkosh,  which,  together  with 
plank-roads  and  a  railroad  to  extend  south  to  Fond  dti  Lac, 
and  another  road  to  Ripon,  give  great  facilities  for  trade  and 
commerce,  in  connection  with  lake  and  river  navigation.  The 
Fox  River  Improvement  here  leaves  Lake  Winnebago,  and  ex- 
tends in  a  southwest  direction  toward  the  junction  with  the 
Wisconsin  River  at  Portage  City. 

Fond  DU  Lac,  capital  of  Fond  du  T  ".  County,  is  a  flourish- 
ing city  favorably  situated  at  the  h^ad  of  Lake  Winnebago, 
87  miles  N.N.W.  from  Milwaukee  by  railroad  route,  and  42 
miles  west  of  Sheboygan,  lying  on  Lake  Michigan,  Here  are 
located  the  county  buildings,  a  city  hall,  several  churches  and 
public  houses,  60  stores  of  different  kinds,  two  banking  houses, 
a  car  factory,  an  iron  foundry,  and  several  other  manufacturing 
establishments,  and  7,000  inhabitants.  Steamers  run  daily  to 
Oshkosh,  Appleton,  Green  Bay,  and  other  ports. 

The  Chicago,  St.  Paul  and  Fond  du  Lac  Railroad,  when 
finished,  will  form  a  direct  and  speedy  commnnication  with  al- 
most every  part  of  Wisconsin,  Illinois,  and  Minnesota. 

Lak£  Winnebago,  which  is  a  most  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
about  30  miles  long  and  10  broad,  forms  a  link  in  the  chain  of 
navigable  waters,  connecting  Green  Bay  and  Lake  Michigan 
with  the  Wisconsin  and  Mississippi  River  at  Prairie  du  Chien. 
Railroads  will  soon  reach  the  waters  of  this  lake  from  several 
points. 

The  Trip  from  Chicago  to  Mackinac,  etc.,  connecting 
at  the  latter  place  with  the  Green  Bay  route,  is  fully  described  j 
in  another  part  of  this  work 


and  about 

important 
ether  with 
d  dd  Lac, 
trade  and 
tion.  The 
50,  and  ex- 
1  with  the 


a  flourish- 
iVinnebago, 
Lte,  and  42 
Here  are 
urches  and 
dng  houses, 
aufacturing 
Tin  daily  to 

^road,  when 
ion  with  al- 

ta. 

eet  of  water, 

the  chain  of 
^e  Michigan 
•ie  du  Chien. 
from  several 


,,  connecting! 
Uy  described  I 


TRIP  FEO] 


Since  the 

spring  of  185^ 

tlio  waters  of 

dations  for  t: 

three  large  st 

frotri  ClevelaiK 

at  the  head  o 

several  propell 

stopping  at  M 

with  the  differ 

The  steamer 

C.  W.,  to  the  J 

Toronto  and 

Superior, 

On  leaving  tj 
the  rapids,  the 
Iroquois  Poijvj 
Cap,  on  the  noi 
!  miles  asunder. 
I  mated  to  rise  6 1 
j  tap  is  a  name 
I  projecting  head! 
I  tlie  conspicuouj 
North  of  GroJ 
ptheAoId  heac 
I  shore,  as  seen  fj 
[grand  appearai 
TequamenoJ 
I  terminating  at 
Ydrisien  Islam 


TRIP  FROM  SAUT  STE  MARIE  TO  THE  DIITEREXT 
PORTS  OX  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


Since  the  completion  of  the  St.  Mary's  Ship  Canal  in*  the 
Bpring  of  1855,  steamers  and  propellers  of  a  large  class  traverse 
tho  waters  of  Lake  Superior,  affording  safe  and  excellent  accom- 
dations  for  travelers  and  emigrai'^s.  During  the  year  1856 
three  large  steamers  formed  the  Lake  Superior  Line  running 
froTTt  Cleveland  and  Detroit  through  the  oanal  to  Superior  City, 
at  the  head  of  Fond  du  Lac,  and  two  large  steamers,  besides 
several  propellers,  ran  from  Chicago  for  the  same  destination, 
stopping  at  Mackinac,  forming  an  almost  daily  communication 
with  the  different  Lake  Superior  ports. 

The  steamer  Collingwood  also  runs  direct  from  Collingv/ood, 
C.  W.,  to  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  enabling  passengers  taking  the 
Toronto  and  Oollingwood  route  to  proceed  direct  into  Lake 
Superior. 

On  leaving  the  Upper  Landing  at  the  Sant  Ste  Marie,  above 
the  rapids,  the  steamer  soon  enters  Tequamenon  Bay,  passing 
lRO(iuois  Point,  15  miles  distant  on  the  south  shore,  while  Gros 
Cap,  on  the  north  or  Canada  side,  lies  opposite,  being  about  four 
miles  asunder.  This  headland  consists  of  hills  of  porphyry  esti- 
mated to  rise  6  or  700  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  lake.  "Gros 
Cap  is  a  name  given  by  the  voyageura  to  almost  innumerable 
projecting  headlands ;  but  in  this  case  appropriate  —since  it  is 
the  conspicuous  feature  at  the  entrance  of  the  lake." 

North  of  Gros  Cap  lies  Goulais  Bay,  and  GouluU  Point,  an- 
i  other*  Dold  headland,  is  seen  in  the  distance.    The  whole  north 
shore,  as  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  presents  a  bold  and 
[grand  appearance. 

Tequamenon  Bay  is  about  25  miles  long  and  as  many  broad, 
I  terminating  at  White  Fish  Point,  40  miles  above  Saut  Ste  Marie. 
\Parisien  Island  is  passed,  lying  near  the  middle  of  the  above 


V;' 


t' 


m 


58 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


bay,  being  attached  to  Canada.  Opposite  this  island,  to  the 
north,  is  seen  CouUe  Point,  and  besides  this,  several  sraall 
islands  stud  the  north  shore.  Tequamenon  River  enters  the 
bay  from  the  east,  discharging  a  large  quantity  of  water. 

Mamainse  Point  (Little  Sturgeon),  opposite  White  Fish 
Point,  is  anothei  bold  headland,  near  where  is  situated  the 
Quebec  Copper  Mining  Co.'s  Works,  at  present  abandoned,  owing 
to  their  being  found  unproductive.  Some  15  or  20  miles  iiorth 
are  located  the  Montreal  Company's  Copper  Mine,  which  is  being 
successfully  worked.  While  still  farther  north,  skirting  Lake 
Superior,  is  to  be  found  a  vast  mineral  region,  as  yet  only  par- 
tially explored. 

The  scenery  of  Lake  Superior,  and  the  productions  of  its 
shores,  which  are  so  little  known  to  even  our  professional  tour- 
ists, are  thus  vividly  described  by  an  intelligent  writer : 

"  Situated  between  latitudes  forty -six  and  forty- nine — with 
an  altitude  of  over  two  hundred  yards  above  the  level  of  tho 
ocean,  and  a  depth  reaching  far  below  that  level — a  coast  of 
surpassiiicr  beauty  and  grandeur,  more  than  twelve  hunJrol 
miles  in  extent,  and  abounding  in  geological  phenomena,  varied 
mineral  wealth,  agates,  cornelian,  jasper,  opal,  and  other  precious 
stones — with  its  rivers,  bays,  estuaries,  islands,  presque  isles, 
peninsulas,  capes,  pictured  rocks,  transparent  lakes,  leaping  cas- 
cades, and  bold  highlands,  limned  with  pure  veins  of  quartz,  i 
spar,  and  amethystine  crystals,  full  to  repletion  with  mineral 
riches ;  reflecting  in  gorgeous  majesty  the  sun's  bright  rays  and 
the  moon's  mellow  blush ;  o'crtopped  with  ever- verdant  groves 
of  fir,  cedar,  and  the  mountain  ash;  while  the  background  is 
filled  up  with  mountain  upon  mountain,  until  rising  in  majesty 
to  the  clouds,  distance  loses  their  inequality  resting  against  the  | 
clear  vault  of  heaven." 

On  passing  White  Fish  Point,  where  may  be  seen  a  number 
of  "  sand-dunes,"  or  hills,  and  a  light-house  75  feet  in  height, 
the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Superior  are  reached.  The  steamers | 
usually  pursue  a  westerly  course  toward  Grand  Island  or  lS\^i- 
quette,  passing  Point  au  Sable,  50  miles  farther.  During  clearj 
weather,  the  steep  sandy  hrlls  on  the  south  shore,  ranging  froml 
400  to  1,000  feet  in  height,  may  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  tlie| 
steamer. 


The  Picture 
given  by  traveh 
Here  also  are  i 
Rock,  both  obje( 
Castle,  Chapel, 
great  picturesqi 
appreciated. 

Extract  from 
of  the  Lake  Supi 


"  The  range  o1 

has  been  given, 

and  beautiful  fef 

well  worthy  the 

I  and  beautiful,  ai 

"Although  oc 

I  curate  descriptio 

I  been  communicat 

"ThePicTURi 

las  a  series  of  sa 

I  Lake  Superior  fo 

rertically  from  t] 

Iheight  varying  f 

Ithey  simply  a  lin 

Iheight  or  extent 

priosities,   altho 

Iwashed  by  the  wa 

|circumstances,   b 

casting  along  th 

Itimes,  be  an  obje( 

pund  coast,  affoi 

fring  sky,  the  rii 


LAKG    6UPERI0R. 


50 


ine — TTitb 
irel  of  til? 

coast  of 

hundre-l 
na,  varied 
sr  precious 
ique  isles, 
aping  ctis- 
[)f  quartz, 
h  mineral 

rays  and 
mt  groves 
ground  is 
in  majesty  I 

gainst  the  1 

a  number 
in  lieiglit, 
e  steamers  j 

ad  or  ^^-f* 
iring  clearl 
aging  froml 
ieck  of  thel 


The  Pictured  Rocks,  of  which  almost  bibulous  accounts  are 
given  by  travelers,  are  about  110  miles  west  of  Saut  Ste  Marie. 
Here  also  are  to  be  seen  the  Cascade  Falls  and  the  Arched 
Rock,  both  objects  of  great  interest.  The  Amphitheatre,  Miners* 
Castle,  Chapel,  Grand  Portal,  and  Sail  Rock,  are  also  points  of 
great  picturesque  beauty,  which  require  to  be  seen  to  be  jusLly  . 
appreciated. 

Extract  from  Foster  and  Whitney's  Report  of  the  Geology 
of  the  Lake  Superior  Land  District : 

PICTURED  ROCKB. 

The  range  of  cliffs  to  which  the  name  of  the  Pictured  Rocks 

[has  been  given,  may  be  regarded  as  among  the  most  striking 

and  beautiful  features  of  the  acenery  of  the  Northwest,  and  are 

well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  artist,  the  lover  of  the  grand 

land  beautiful,  and  the  observer  of  geological  phenomena. 

Although  occasionally  visited  by  travelers,  a  full  and  ac- 
I curate  description  of  this  extraordinary  locality  has  not  as  yet 
[been  communicated  to  the  public* 

"The  Pictured  Rocks  may  be  described,  in  general  terms, 
las  a  series  of  sandstone  bluffs  extending  along  the  shore  of 
iLake  Superior  for  about  five  miles,  and  rising,  in  most  places, 
Ivertically  from  the  water,  without  any  beach  at  the  base,  to  a 
Iheight  varying  from  fifty  to  nearly  two  hundred  feet.     Were 
Ithey  simply  a  line  of  cliffs,  they  might  not,  so  far  as  relates  to 
jheight  or  extent,  be  worthy  of  a  rank  among  great  natural 
leuriosities,   although    such   an  assemblage  of   rocky  strata, 
liashed  by  the  waves  of  the  great  lake,  would  not,  under  any 
[circumstances,  be  destitute  of   grandeur.      To  the  voyager 
casting  along  their  base  in  his  frail  canoe  they  would,  at  all 
fimes,  be  an  object  of  dread ;  the  recoil  of  the  surf,  the  rock- 
ound  coast,  affording  for  miles  no  place  of  refuge ;  the  low- 
ering sky,  the  rising  wind ;  all  these  would  excite  his  appre- 


*  Schoolcraft  has  undertaken  to  describe  this  range  of  cliffs,  and  illns- 
ate  the  scenery.    The  sketches  do  not  appear  to  liave  been  made  on  the 

jKor  finished  by  one  wlio  was  acquainted  with  the  scenery,  as  they 

Varno  resemblance,  so  far  as  we  observed,  to  any  of  the  prominent  fea- 

^v^  of  the  Pictured  Rocks. 

"It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that,  so  far  as  we  know,  none  of  our  artists 
ave  visited  this  region  and  given  to  the  world  representations  of  scenery 

||i  striking,  and  so  different  from  any  which  can  be  found  elsewhere. 

^e  can  hardly  conceive  of  any  thing  more  worthy  of  the  artistes  pencil ; 
«kI  if  the  tide  of  pleasure«-travel  should  once  be  turned  in  this  direction, 
'<>^m3  not  unreasonable  to  suppose  that  a  fashionable  hotel  may  yet  be 
^ilt  under  the  shade  of  the  pine  groves  near  the  Chapel,  and  a  trip 
tither  become  as  common  as  one  to  Niagara  now  is.** 


ti^- 


60 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


If 


n  <. 


I  1    :^l 


l» 


'I?' 


pR 


hension,  and  induce  him  to  ply  a  vigorous  oar  until  the  dreaded 
wall  was  passed.  But  in  the  Pictured  Rocks  there  are  two 
features  which  communicate  to  the  scenery  a  wonderful  and 
almost  unique  character.  These  are,  first,  the  curious  manner 
in  which  the  cliflFs  have  been  excavated  and  worn  away  by  the 
action  of  the  lake,  which  for  centuries  has  dashed  an  ocean- 
like  surf  against  their  base :  and,  second,  the  equally  curious 
manner  in  which  large  portions  of  the  surface  have  been 
colored  by  bands  of  brilliant  hues. 

*'  It  is  from  the  latter  circumstance  that  the  name  by  which 
these  cliffs  are  known  to  *he  American  traveler  is  derived; 
while  that  applied  to  them  by  the  French  voyageurs  (*  Les 
Portails'*)  is  derived  from  the  former,  and  by  far  the  most 
striking  peculiarity. 

*'  The  term  Pictured  Rocks  has  been  in  use  for  a  great 
length  of  time,  but  when  it  was  first  applied  we  have  been 
unable  to  discover. 

•*  The  Indian  name  applied  to  thes":  cliffs,  according  to  our 
voyageurSf  is  Schkuee-archibi-kung  or  "The  end  of  the 
rocks,"  which  seems  to  refer  to  the  fact  that,  in  descending  the 
lake,  after  having  passed  them,  no  more  rocks  are  seen  along 
the  shore.  Our  voyageurs  had  many  legends  to  relate  of  the 
pranks  of  the  Menni-boujou  in  these  caverns,  and  in  answer  to 
our  inquiries  seemed  disposed  to  fabricate  stories  without  end 
of  the  achievements  of  this  Indian  deity. 

"  We  will  describe  the  most  interesting  points  in  the  series, 
proceeding  from  west  to  east.    On  leaving  Grand  Island  harbor,! 

*  Le  Portail  is  a  French  term,  signifying  the  principal  entrance  of  a 
church  or  a  portal,  and  this  name  was  given  to  the  Pictured  Bocks  by 
the  voyageurs  evidently  in  allusion  to  the  arched  entrances  which  con- 
stitute the  most  characteristic  feature.  Le  Grand  Portail  is  the  great 
archway,  or  grand  portal. 

t  The  traveler  desirous  of  visiting  this  scene  should  take  advantage 
of  one  of  the  steamers  or  propellers  which  navigate  the  lake  and  land  at 
Grand  Island,  from  which  he  can  proceed  to  make  the  tour  of  the  inter- 
esting  points  in  a  small  boat.  The  large  vessels  on  the  lake  do  not  ap- 
proach suflBcicntly  near  the  cliifs  to  allow  the  traveler  to  gather  more  than 
a  general  idea  of  their  position  and  outlines.  To  be  able  to  appreciate 
and  understand  their  extraordinary  character,  it  is  indispensable  to  coast 
along  in  close  proximity  to  th&'Cliffs  and  pass  beneath  the  Grand  Portal, 
wliicii  is  only  accessible  from  the  lake,  and  to  laud  and  enter  within  the 
precincts  of  the  Chapel.  At  Grand  Island,  boats,  men,  and  provisions 
may  be  procured.  The  traveler  should  lay  in  a  good  supply,  if  it  is  in- 
tended to  be  absent  long  enough  to  make  a  thorough  examination  of  the 
whole  series.  In  fl&ct,  an  old  voyager  will  not  readily  trust  himself  to  the 
mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves  of  the  lake  without  them,  as  he  may  not 
unfrequently,  however  auspicious  the  weather  when  starting,  And  himself 
weather>bound  for  Jays  together.  It  is  possible,  however,  In  one  day,  lo 
start  ft'om  Grand  Island,  see  the  most  interesting  points  and  return.  Tlie 
distance  flrom  William's  to  the  Chapel— the  farthest  point  of  interestr-is 
about  fifteen  miles. 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


61 


rh  cliffs  are  seen  to  the  east,  which  form  the  commence- 
init  of  the  series  of  rocky  promontories,  which  rise  vertically 
froA  the  water  to  the  height  of  from  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dret  find  twenty -five  feet,  covered  with  a  dense  canopy  of  foli- 
age. I  Occasionally  a  small  cascade  may  be  seen  falling  from 
the  /erge  to  tlie  base  in  an  unbroken  curve,  or  gliding  down 
th/inclined  face  of  the  cliff  in  a  sheet  of  white  foam.  The 
^ks  at  this  point  begin  to  assume  fantastic  shapes ;  but  it 
is  not  until  having  reached  Miners*  River  that  their  striking 
peculiarities  are  observed.  Here  the  coast  makes  an  abrupt 
turn  to  the  eastward,  and  just  at  the  point  where  the  rocks 
break  off  and  the  friendly  sand-beach  begins,  is  seen  one  of  the 
grandest  works  of  nature  in  her  rock-built  architecture.  We 
gave  it  the  name  of  *'  Miners'  Castle,"  from  its  singular  resem- 
blance to  the  turreted  entrance  and  arched  porial  of  some  old 
castle — for  instance,  that  of  Dumbarton.  The  height  of  the  ad- 
vancing mass,  in  which  the  form  of  the  Gothic  gateway  may  be 
recognized,  is  about  seventy  feet,  while  that  of  the  main  wall 
forming  the  background  is  about  one  hundred  and  forty.  The 
appearance  of  the  openings  at  the  base  changes  rapidly  with 
each  change  in  the  position  of  the  spectator.  On  taking  a  posi- 
tion a  little  farther  to  the  right  of  that  occupied  by  the 
sketcher,  the  central  opening  appears  more  distinctly  flanked 
on  either  side  by  two  lateral  passages,  making  the  resemblance 
to  an  artificial  work  still  more  striking. 

"  A  little  farther  east.  Miners'  River  enters  the  lake  close 
under  the  brow  of  the  cliff,  which  hero  sinks  down  and  gives 
place  to  a  sand-bank  nearly  a  third  of  a  mile  in  extent.  The 
river  is  so  narrow  that  it  requires  no  little  skill  on  the  part  of 
the  voyager  to  enter  its  mouth  when  a  heavy  sea  is  rolling  in 
from  the  north.  On  the  right  bank,  a  sandy  drift  plain,  cov- 
ered with  Norway  and  Banksian  pine,  spreads  out,  affording 
good  camping-ground — the  only  place  of  refuge  to  the  voyager 
until  he  reaches  Chapel  River,  five  miles  distant,  if  we  excep* 
a  small  sand  beach  about  midway  between  the  two  points, 
where,  in  case  of  necessity,  a  boat  may  be  beached. 

"  Beyond  the  sand  beach  at  Miners'  River  the  cliffs  attain 
an  altitude  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-three  feet,  and  main- 
tain a  nearly  uniform  height  for  a  considerable  distance.  Here 
one  of  those  cascades  of  which  we  have  before  spoken  is  seen 
foaming  down  the  rock. 

"  The  cliffs  do  not  form  straight  lines,  but  rather  arcs  of 
circles,  the  space  between  the  projecting  points  having  been 
worn  out  in  symmetrical  curves,  some  of  which  are  of  large  di- 
mensions. To  one  of  the  grandest  and  most  regularly  formed 
we  gave  the  name  of  *  The  Amphitheatre.'  Looking  to  the 
west,  another  projecting  point — its  base  worn  into  cave-like 

6 


^"■fT' 


.<:' 


■%r^ 


*";«l 


i 


G2 


LAKE    8UPKRI0R. 


I'M- 


forms— and  a  portion  of  the  concave  surface  of  tlie  intervening 
space  are  seen. 

'•  It  '"  in  this  portion  of  the  series  that  the  phenomena  of 
colors  are  moat  beautifully  and  conspicuously  displayed.  These 
can  not  be  illuwt rated  by  a  mere  crayon  sketch,  but  would  re- 
quire, to  rQprolaoc  the  natural  effect,  an  elaborate  drawing  on 
a  large  scale,  in  which  the  various  combinations  of  color  should 
be  caretully  represented.  These  colors  do  not  by  any  menns 
cover  the  whole  surface  of  the  cliflf  even  where  they  are  most 
conspicuously  displayed,  but  are  confined  to  certain  portions  of 
the  cliifs  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Amphitheatre ;  the  great  mass 
of  the  surface  presenting  the  natural,  light-yellow,  or  raw- 
sienna  color  of  the  rock  The  colors  are  also  limited  in  their 
vertical  range,  rarely  extending  more  than  thirty  or  forty  feet 
above  the  water,  or  a  quarter  or  a  third  of  the  vertical  height 
of  the  cliff.  The  prevailing  tints  consist  of  deep-brown,  yellow, 
and  gray— burnt  sienna  and  French-gray  predominating. 

•There  are  also  bright  blues  and  greens,  though  less  fre- 
quent. All  of  the  tints  are  fresh,  brilliant,  and  distinct,  and 
harmonize  admirably  with  one  another,  which,  taken  in  con- 
nection with  the  grandeur  of  the  arched  and  caverned  surfaces 
on  which  they  are  laid,  and  the  deep  and  pure  green  of  the 
water  which  heaves  and"  swells  at  the  base,  and  the  rich  foliage 
which  waves  above,  produce  an  eflfect  truly  wonderful. 

*'  They  are  not  scattered  indiscriminately  over  the  surface 
of  the  rock,  but  are  arranged  in  vertical  and  parallel  bands, 
extending  to  the  water's  edge.  The  mode  of  their  production 
is  undoubtedly  as  follows:  Between  the  bands  or  strata  of 
thick-bedded  sandstone  there  are  thin  seams  of  shaly  mate- 
rials, which  are  more  or  less  charged  with  the  metallic  oxides, 
iron  largely  predominating,  with  here  and  there  a  trace  of 
copper.  As  the  surface-water  permeates  through  the  porous 
strata  it  comes  in  contact  with  these  shaly  bands,  and,  oozing 
out  from  the  exposed  edges,  trickles  down  the  face  of  the  cliffs, 
|ind  leaves  behind  a  sediment,  colored  according  to  the  oxide 
which  is  contained  in  the  band  in  which  it  originated.  It  can 
not,  however,  be  denied  that  there  are  some  peculiarities  which 
it  is  difficult  to  explain  by  any  hypothesis. 

*'  On  first  examining  the  Pictured  Rocks,  we  were  forcibly 
struck  with  the  brilliancy  and  beauty  of  the  colors,  and  won- 
dered why  some  of  our  predecessors,  in  their  descriptions,  had 
hardly  adverted  to  what  we  regarded  as  their  most  character- 
istic feature.  At  a  subsequent  visit  we  were  surprised  to  find 
that  the  eflfect  of  the  colors  was  much  less  striking  than  before : 
they  seemed  faded  out,  leaving  only  traces  of  their  former  bril- 
liancy, so  that  the  traveler  might  regard  this  as  an  unimport- 
ant feature  in  the  scenery.    It  is  difficult  to  account  for  this 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


h 


cliango,  but  it  may  bo  duo  to  the  dryn.\ss^  or  humidity  of  the 
i;3ason.  If  the  colors  are  produced  hy  the  percolation  of  the 
water  through  the  strata,  taking  up  and  di*p(»8lting  the  colored 
sediments,  as  before  suggested,  it  is  evident  that  i\  long  period 
of  drouth  would  aut  off  the  supply  of  moisture,  and  the  colors, 
l)oing  no  longer  renewed,  would  fade,  and  finally  disappear. 
This  explanation  seems  reasonable,  for  at  the  time  of  our  second 
visit  the  beds  of  the  streams  on  the  summit  of  the  table-land 
were  dry. 

"  It  is  a  curious  fact,  thftt  the  colors  arc  so  firmly  attached 
to  the  surface  that  they  are  very  little  atfected  by  rains  or  the 
dashing  of  the  surf,  since  they  were,  in  numerous  instances, 
observed  extending  in  all  their  freshness  to  the  very  water's 
edge. 

"  Proceeding  to  the  eastward  of  the  Amphitheatre,  we  find 
the  cliffs  scooped  out  into  caverns  and  grotesque  openings,  of 
the  most  striJiing  and  beautiful  variety  of  forms,  in  some 
places  huge  blocks  of  sandstone  have  become  dislodged  and 
accumulated  at  the  base  of  the  cliff,  where  they  are  ground  up 
and  the  fragments  borne  away  by  the  ceaseless  action  of  the 
surge. 

"  To  a  striking  group  of  detached  blocks  the  name  of  '  Sail 
Rock'  has  been  given,  from  its  striking  resemblance  to  the  jib 
and  mainsail  of  a  sloop  when  spread — so  much  so,  that  when 
viewed  from  a  distance,  with  a  full  glare  of  ligh*^  upon  it,  while 
the  cliff  in  the  rear  is  left  in  the  shade,  the  illusion  is  perfect. 
The  height  of  the  block  is  about  forty  feet. 

"  Masses  of  rock  are  frequently  disloged  from  the  cliff,  if  we 
may  judge  from  the  freshness  of  the  fracture  and  the  appear- 
ance of  the  trees  involved  in  the  descent.  The  rapidity  with 
wliich  this  undermining  process  is  carried  on,  at  many  points, 
will  be  readily  appreciated  when  we  consider  that  the  cliffs  do  not 
form  a  single  unbroken  line  of  wall ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  they 
present  numerous  salient  angles  to  the  full  force  of  the  waves. 
A  projecting  corner  is  undermined  until  the  superincumbent 
weight  becomes  too  great,  the  overhanging  mass  cracks,  and 
aided  perhaps  by  the  power  of  frost,  gradually  becomes  loosened, 
and  finally  topples  with  a  crash  into  the  lake. 

"  The  same  general  arched  and  broken  line  of  cliffs  borders  the 
coast  for  a  mile  to  the  eastward  of  Sail  Rock,  where  the  most  im- 
posing feature  in  the  series  is  reached.  This  is  the  Grand  Portal 
~Le  Grand  Portail  of  the  voyageurs.  The  general  disposition 
of  the  arched  openings  which  traverse  this  great  quadrilateral 
mass  may,  perhaps,  be  made  intelligible  without  the  aid  of  a 
ground-plan.  The  main  body  of  the  structure  consists  of  a  vast 
mass  of  a  rectilinear  shape,  pi  ejecting  out  into  the  lake  about  six 
hundred  feet,  and  presenting  a  front  of  three  hundred  or  four 


M 


04 


LAKB    8UPEIII0R. 


II  Mmfi 


'Pl 


M 


hundred  foot,  and  rlaing  to  a  height  of  about  two  hundred  feet. 
An  entrance  has  bcon  excavated  from  one  side  to  the  other,  open- 
ing out  into  large  vaulted  passages  which  communicate  with  the 
great  dome,  some  three  hundred  feet  from  the  front  of  the  cliff. 
The  Grand  Portal,  which  opi'us  out  on  the  lake,  is  of  magnificent 
dimensions,  being  alK)ut  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  one 
hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet  broad  a*  the  water-level.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  Vv^rge  of  the  cliff  over  the  arch  to  the  w  .ter  is 
one  hundred  and  thiity-three  feet,  le.iving  thirty-three  eet  for 
the  thickness  of  the  rock  above  the  arch  itself.  The  extreme 
height  of  the  cliff  is  about  fifty  feet  more,  making  in  all  one 
hundred  and  eighty -three  feet. 

*'  rt  is  impossible,  by  any  arrangement  of  words,  or  by  any 
combinaticm  of  colors,  to  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  this  won- 
derful scene.  The  vast  dimensions  of  the  cavern,  the  vaulteil 
passages,  the  varied  effects  of  the  light  as  it  streams  through 
the  great  arch  and  falls  on  the  different  objects,  the  deep 
emerald  green  of  the  water,  the  unvarying  swell  of  the  lake 
keeping  up  a  succession  of  musical  echoes,  the  reverberations 
of  one's  own  voice  coming  back  with  startling  eflfect,  all  those 
must  be  seen,  and  hoard,  and  felt,  to  be  fully  appreciated. 

**  Beyond  the  Grand  Portal  the  cliffs  gradually  diminish  in 
height,  and  the  generjl  trend  of  the  coast  is  more  to  the  south- 
east; hence  the  rock  being  less  exposed  to  the  force  of  the 
waves,  bears  fewer  marks  of  their  destructive  action.  The 
entrance  to  Chapel  River  is  at  the  most  easterly  extremity  of  a 
sandy  beach  which  extends  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  affords 
a  convenient  landing-place,  while  the  drift-terrace,  elevated 
about  thirty  feet  above  the  lake-level,  being  an  open  pine  plain, 
alTordb  excellent  camping-ground,  and  is  the  most  central  and 
convenient  spot  for  the  traveler  to  pitch  his  tent,  while  he  ex- 
amines the  most  interesting  localities  in  the  series  which  occur 
in  this  vicinity — to  wit,  the  Grand  Portal  and  the  Chapel.-- 
(See  Engraving.) 

The  Chapel — La  tbapelle  of  the  voyageurs— \f  not  the  grand- 
est, is  among  the  most  grotesque,  of  Nature's  architecture  here 
displayed.  Unlike  the  excavations  before  described,  which  occur 
at  the  water's  edge,  this  has  been  made  in  the  rock  at  a  height 
of  thirty  or  forty  feet  above  the  lake.  The  interior  consists  of 
a  vaulted  apartment,  which  has  not  inaptly  received  the  name 
it  bears.  An  arched  roof  of  sandstone,  from  ten  to  twenty  feet 
in  thickness,  rests  on  four  gigantic  columns  of  rock,  so  as  to 
leave  a  vaulted  apartment  of  irregular  shape,  about  forty  feet 
in  diameter,  and  about  the  same  in  height.  The  columns  con- 
sist of  finely  stratified  rock,  and  have  been  worn  into  curious 
shapes.  At  the  base  of  one  of  them  an  arched  cavity  or  niche 
has  been  cut,  to  which  access  is  had  by  a  flight  of  steps  formed 


LAKE    &UPEKIOU. 
t 


C5 


by  tlio  projecting  strnta.  The  disposition  of  the  whol »  is  such 
us  to  ruso'inble  very  much  tlio  "pulpit  of  a  church;  since  there 
is  overhciid  an  arched  canopy,  anil  in  front  an  opening  out 
toward  the  vaulted  interior  of  the  chapel,  with  a  Hat  tabular 
mass  in  front,  rising  to  a  convenient  height  for  a  desk,  while  on 
the  right  is  an  isolated  block,  which  not  in:ip  ly  represents  an 
alttir ;  so  that  if  the  whole  hail  been  adapted  expressly  for  a  place 
of  worship,  and  fashioned  by  tlie  hantl  of  ni.m,  it  could  hanlly 
have  been  arranged  more  appropriately.  It  is  hardly  possible 
to  describe  the  singular  and  ur.iquc  eft\jct  of  this  extraordinary 
structure;  it  is  truly  a  temple  of  nature — "  a  housj  not  made 
with  hands." 

••  i)n  the  west  side,  and  in  close  proximity,  ('hapvd  River  enters 
the  lake,  precipitating  itself  over  a  rocky  ledge  ten  or  fii'tcen 
feet  in  height.* 

"  It  is  surprising  to  see  how  little  the  action  of  the  stream 
has  worn  away  the  rocks  which  form  its  bed.  There  appears  to 
have  been  hardly  any  recession  of  the  cascade,  and  the  rocky 
bed  has  been  excavated  only  a  foot  or  two  since  the  stream 
r»jsumed  its  present  direction. 

"  It  seems  therefore  impossible  that  the  river  could  have  had 
any  influence  in  excavating  the  Chapel  itself,  but  its  excavation 
must  be  referred  to  a  periOd  when  the  waters  of  the  lake  stood 
at  a  higher  level. 

'*  N^ar  the  Grand  Portal  the  cliffs  are  covered,  in  placps,  with 
an  efflorescence  of  sulphate  of  lime,  in  delicate  crystallizations  ; 
this  substance  not  only  incrusts  the  walls,  but  is  found  deposited 
on  the  moss  which  lines  them,  forming  singular  and  interesting 
specimens,  which  however  can  not  be  transported  without  losing 
their  beauty. 

"  At  the  same  place  we  found  numerous  traces  of  organic  life 
in  the  form  of  obscure  fucoidal  markings,  wiiich  seem  to  be  the 
impressions  of  plants,  similar  to  those  described  by  Prof.  Hall 
as  occurring  in  the  Potsdam  sandstone  of  New  York.  These 
were  first  noticed  at  this  plice  by  Dr.  Locke,  in  1847." 

Grand  Island,  125  miles  distant  from  the  Saut,  is  about  ten 

miles  long  and  five  wide,  lying  close  in  to  the  south  shore.   This 

is  a  wild  and  romantic  island  ;  the  cliffs  of  sandstone,  irregular 

and  broken  into  by  the  waves,  form  picturesque  caverns,  pillars, 

and  arches  of  immense  dimensions.     The  main  shore,  also  in 


I 


yj 


13' 1 


*  "  At  this  fall,  according  to  immemorial  usage  among  the  voyag^uvs  in 
Jweending  the  lake,  the  mangeurs  de  tard,  who  make  their  first  trip,  re- 
ceive baptism ;  which  consists  in  giving  them  a  severe  ducking — a  cere- 
mony somewhAt  similar  to  that  practic^  on  green-horns,  when  crossing 
Uie  line. 


6* 


*i  m 


66 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


sight,  presents  a  magnificent  appearance.  Here  are  several 
other  small  islands,  and  a  good  harbor.  It  is  proposed  to  con- 
struct a  railroad  from  this  harbor  to  the  head  of  Big  Bay  de 
Noc,  the  most  northern  arm  of  Green  Bay,  only  30  miles  dis- 
tant, thus  forming  an  almost  direct  north  and  south  route  to 
Chicago,  etc. 

Marquette,  Mich.,  170  miles  from  the  Saut,  is  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  places  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Superior,  being 
the  shipping  port  of  the  rich  iron  mines,  which  are  from  four  to 
twelve  miles  distant  from  the  village.  These  mines  yield  from 
60  to  80  per  cent,  pure  iron,  which  is  exported  in  large  quan- 
tities to  Detroit,  to  Cleveland,  and  to  Pittsburgh.  A  railroad 
extends  some  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  to  the  mines,  affording 
the  mines  facilities  for  transporting  the  ore  to  Marquette,  where 
is  a  good  harbor.  The  village  contains  two  churches,  a  large 
hotel,  besides  several  taverns  and  stores,  and  about  1,000  in- 
habitants. A  railroad  will  soon  be  constructed  from.this  point 
to  Little  Bay  de  Noc,  about  30  miles  southeast,  which,  when 
completed,  will  greatly  facilitate  the  traffic  in  iron  and^opper 
ores,  in  which  this  whole  section  of  country  abounds,  as  well  as 
with  other  valuable  metals,  precious  stones,  etc. 


'}"^\i 


LAKE    SUPERIOR   IRON   REGION. 

"  The  discovery  of  the  iron  mountains  and  mines  of  Lake 
Superior  was  made  in  1846,  but  owing  to  the  cost  of  trans-ship- 
ment and  transportation  across  the  Portage  at  the  Falls  of  St. 
Mary's  River,  but  little  was  done  to  develop  them  until  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Snut  Ste  Marie  ship  canal,  two  years  ago,  which 
gave  a  new  and  lively  impetus  to  the  business ;  and  it  now  foruis 
an  important  feature  of  the  Lake  Superior  trade. 

"  The  mines  are  situated  from  three  to  sixteen  miles  from 
Marquette,  a  pleasant  and  thriving  village  of  1,000  inhabitants., 
overlooking  Luko  Superior,  located  near  the  mouth  cf  Carp 
River,  140  miles  above  Saut  Ste  Marie. 

«*  The  mine  nearest  to  the  lake  is  the  Eureka,  about  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  Marquette.  The  ore  here  is  not  so  easily  or 
cheaply  obtained  as  at  the  Sharon  or  Cleveland  mountains,  but 
it  is  of  surpassing  richness,  and  yields  an  iron  of  the  finest  and 


LAKE    SUPERIOR 


67 


J  several 
d  to  con- 
5  Bay  de 
ailes  dis- 
route  to 

me  of  the 
ior,  being 
>m  four  to 
j^ield  from 
rge  quan- 
V.  railroad 
,  affording 
Btte,  where 
es,  a  large 
i  1,000  in- 
.this  point 
hich,  when 
ind^opper 
as  well  as 


Is  of  Lake 
[rans-ship- 
Jalls  of  St. 
Il  the  com- 
\go,  which 
(now  forms 

lilcs  from 

ittbitants., 

cf  Carp 

two  and 

easily  or 

Itains,  but 

lest  and 


best  quality  for  cutlery,  etc.    It  has  not  been  worked  so  ex- 
tensively as  the  others,  but  it  is  being  prosecuted  with  vigor. 

"  The  Jackson  Iron  Mountain,  owned  by  the  Sharon  Company, 
is  situated  14  miles  from  Marquette ;  and  the  Cleveland  Mount- 
ain, ownetl  by  Wm^  H.  Gordon  and  others,  of  Cleveland,  is  two 
miles  beyond.  A  plank  road,  laid  with  flat  iron  rails,  is  in 
operation  from  Marquette  to  both  of  these  mines,  and  the  ore 
is  transported  in  cars  drawn  by  horses  and  mules.  One  span 
of  horses  or  mules  will  draw  a  car  containing  five  tons  of  ore, 
and  make  one  trip  a  day.  The  operative  forces  at  each  of  them 
the  present  season  are  about  equal,  and  they  send  to  Marquette 
an  aggregate  of  from  800  to  1 ,000  tons  per  week.  These  mount- 
ains rise  gradually  to  a  height  of  six  or  seven  hundred  feet,  and 
arc  a  solid  mass  of  iron  ore,  yielding  from  50  to  60  per  cent,  of 
the  best  iron  in  the  world. 

"  Two  and  a  half  miles  beyond  the  Cleveland  is  the  New 
England  Iron  Mountain,  which  is  said  to  abound  with  ore  of 
equal  richness  and  quality  with  the  others,  but  as  the  railroad 
is  not  yet  completed  to  it,  nothing  has  been  done  to  develop  it. 
A  mile  or  two  farther  on  we  reach  the  Burt  Iron  Mountain ; 
but  as  they  all  bear  so  strong  a  resemblance  to  each  other  in 
quantity,  quality,  and  richness  of  ores,  a  description  of  one 
answers  for  them  all.  That  the  iron  of  this  region  is  inex- 
iiaustible  admits  of  no  doubt,  and  that  it  is  the  richest  and  best 
in  the  world  haa  been  clearly  proved  by  analysis  and  practical 
demonstration. 

"The  associates  of  the  late  Heman  B.  Ely,  Esq.,  are  con- 
structing a  substantial  railroad  from  Marquette  to  the  Burt 
Mountain,  and  a  company  has  been  formed  to  continue  it  on 
to  Wisconsin  Stato-line.  Six  or  eip^ht  miles  of  tliis  road  is  com- 
pleted, laid  with  heavy  T  rail,  and  a  locomotive  is  running  upon 
it.  The  grading  is  nearly  completed  to  the  Jackson  Mountain, 
U  miles,  and  the  iron  ¥rill  be  laid  this  fall,  or  early  in  the 
spring.  The  completion  of  this  road  will  have  a  tendency  to 
reduce  materially  the  price  of  ore  at  Marquette.  It  is  now 
[lield  at  $5  per  ton,  delivered  on  the  wharf;  it  can  then  be  sold 
I  at  $?,  50,  and  yield  as  fair  a  profit  as  it  now  does  at  !if  5. 

"  The  Sharon  Iron  Company  have  expended  some  $300,000 

I  in  the  construction  of  a  substantial  breakwater  and  wharf, 

twelve  hundred  feet  long,  a'.  Marquette.     The  harbor  is  well 

protected,  except  against  an  east  wind,  which  blows  directly 

in ;  but  an  expenditure  of  fifty  thousand  dollars,  in  extending 
Ithe  breakwater  already  constructed,  would  make  it  safe  at  aU 
I  times. 

"In  1848,  two  years  after  the  discovery  of  iron,  the  first 
[bloom  forge  on  Lake  Superior  was  built  by  the  Jackson  Iron 
ICompany.    It  is  situated  about  ten  miles  from  Marquette,  in 


:'ki': 


68 


LAKE    SUPEIUOR 


the  vicinity  of  the  Jackson  Mountain.  It  is  a  small  affiir, 
having  only  two  fires,  and  as  the  machinery  proved  imperfect, 
but  little  has  been  done  with  it. 

"  The  second  forge  was  built  by  the  Marquette  Iron  Company 
in  1850,  located  at  the  village  of  Marquette.  This  had  four 
fires,  and  was  worked  by  steam.  It  was  in  successful  operation 
about  eighteen  months,  when  it  was  destroyed  by  fire,  in  18r)2 

"  The  third  bloomery  was  built,  in  185o,  by  Mr.  M'Connell 
It  is  situated  on  the  Dead  River,  six  miles  from  Marquette,  has 
tvro  fires,  and  i    'Vf)rked  by  water-power. 

"  The  fourth  aud  iii-^'st  extensive  and  successful  bloom  forgo, 
on  Lake  .Superior  is  that  of  the  Collins  Iron  Company,  situated 
on  Dead  liiver,  three  miles  from  Marquette.  This  was  ccm- 
pleted  in  1855.  It  is  worked  by  water-power,  has  e'ght  fires, 
and  is  capable  of  manufacturing  2,000  tons  blooms  per  {;mium. 

"  Burt  Mount  lin  is  situated  seventeen  miles  west  from  the 
lake,  and  forms  the  present  terminus  of  the  I.  M.  II.  \\.  The 
surface  indications  of  the  iron  ore  at  this  point  are  of  the  first 
class,  of  which  we  procured  some  fine  specimens.  It  has  not 
yet  been  opened,  yet  those  who  understand  such  matters  think 
it  will  pay  richly  to  work  it.  We  did  not  find  all  the  surface- 
indications,  yet  what  we  did  find  contained  but  little  jasper, 
being  mostly  diamond,  granulated,  and  slate  ore.  The  weight 
of  it  quite  sur^'-ised  us— we  took  hold  of  a  piece  about  eight 
inches  square  .*nd  three  in  thickness,  thinking  to  lift  it  with 
one  hand,  but  our  fingers  slipped  off  as  though  it  had  been 
oiled,  and  no  attempt  was  made  afterward  to  lift  any  but  small 
pieces.  The  bed  of  ore  which  we  found  lay  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  railroad  track,  and  could  be  loaded  on  to  cars  at  a  very 
small  expense.  It  will  probably  be  opened  as  soon  as  the  cars 
are  running  to  this  point ;  from  this  point  we  strike  off  nearly 
south  to  Lake  Angelina. 

*'  Cleveland  Mountain  is  sixteen  miles  from  the  lake,  and 
one  mile  east  of  the  Burt  Mountain.  This  mine  is  now  actively 
worked,  and  sends  down  daily  to  the  lake  from  forty  to  fifty 
tons  of  good  ore.  Mr.  D.  P.  Moore,  the  foreman  of  the  mining 
work,  informed  us  they  had  some  two  hundred  tons  of  ore  ready 
for  transportation,  and  were  constantly  gaining  upon  the  teams 
that  take  it  away.  There  are  now  about  thirty  men  employed 
at  this  mine  constantly,  and  additions  aic  expected  soon.  It 
would  be  utterly  impossible  to  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the  im- 
mense amount  of  ore  at  this  point — it  lies  piled  up  in  huge 
masses  above  the  surface,  and  the  depth  of  it  can  not  be  deter- 
mined, but  probably  extends  farther  down  than  ever  will  be 
dug  to  get  it.  Indeed,  there  is  now  enough  upon  the  surface  to 
last  for  ages,  to  say  nothing  of  other  looalities,  to  which  this  ia 
but  a  conmienoement.    The  miners  have  struck  a  bed  of  jasper, 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


69 


lU  aflTiir, 
mperi'ect, 

Company 
had  four 
operation 
I,  in  18r.2 
I'Connell 
uette,  haa 

lom  forgo, 
r,  situated 
was  ccm- 
i'ght  iires, 
er  r.mium. 
t  from  the 
L.  R.  The 
)f  tbe  first 
It  has  not 
Iters  think 
le  surface- 
tie  jasper, 
rhe  weight 
bout  eight 
lift  it  with 

had  been 
'  but  small 

a  few  feet 
s  at  a  very 
as  the  cars 

off  nearly 

i  lake,  and 
[)W  actively 
•ty  to  fifty 
the  mining 
f  ore  ready 
1  the  teams 
n  employed 
i  soon.  It 
I  of  the  im- 
ap  in  huge 
)t  be  deter- 
ver  will  be 
B  surface  to 
hich  this  is 
)d  of  jasper, 


where  they  are  now  at  work,  on  a  level  with  the  road,  which 
will  not  be  very  profitable  working;  yet  this  is  no  drawback 
at  all,  for  it  is  thought  that  below  it  is  as  good  ore  as  any  ob- 
tained, and  even  if  there  was  none,  there  is  enough  above 
ground,  which  can  be  got  out  cheaper  than  that.  This  the 
company  will  probably  do  now,  as  when  the  work  of  mining 
shall  become  thoroughly  systemfttized,  the  cheaper  ore  can  be 
worked  as  profitably  as  the  b^st  can  now.  Yet  this  is  not  neces- 
sary, as  there  is  an  unlimited  amount  of  ore  that  yields  from 
eighty  to  ninety  per  cent,  of  pure  iron.  There  seems  to  be  no 
obstacle  now  in  the  way  of  the  successful  and  profitable  work- 
iig  of  this  mine. 

"  Jackson  Mountain ^  from  the  lake,  is  fourteen  miles  distant, 
and  east  from  the  Cleveland  Mountain  to  the  place  where  the 
miners  are  working,  two  miles.  It  will  be  seen  at  once,  that 
thousands  of  tons  can  be  prepared  with  but  little  labor,  wlien  a 
good  face  is  defined  off  and  ready  for  blasting.  From  Mr. 
Zimmerman,  the  foreman  of  the  mining  operations,  we  learned 
that  the  company  have  eleven  men  now  at  work  excavating  the 
ore  and  preparing  it  for  removal.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  re- 
mark here,  that  the  ore  is  broken  up  into  a  convenient  size  for 
handling  and  shipping,  at  all  the  mines,  before  it  is  taken  away. 
They  have  now  at  tue  min  s  about  five  hundred  tons  ready  for 
transportation.  The  quantity  carried  to  the  lake  as  yet,  this 
season,  is  small,  compare Mvely ;  but  we  understand  the  com- 
pany have  just  received  a  stock  of  mules,  and  will  probably 
commence  the  transportation  of  it  on  a  large  scale  very  soon. 
V/uere  the  miners  are  now  excavating,  the  surface  exhibits  a 
thin  layer  of  slaty  rock,  which,  being  removed,  shows  ore  of  the 
best  quality,  except  in  a  ifew  small  veins  which  contain  some 
jasper.  The  surface-indications  upon  the  top  of  the  mountain 
exhibit  a  rather  large  proportion  of  jasper ;  yet  where  the  side 
has  been  faced  down  it  shows  that  it  is  only  at  the  surface ; 
what  it  may  be  on  penetrating  to  the  heart  of  the  mountain  it 
is  impossible  to  conjecture. 

"  The  Eureka  Mine  is  distant  from  the  lake  but  two  and  a 
half  miles,  and  but  "a  short  distance  from  the  railway,  with 
which  it  connects  by  a  side  track.  Some  difficulty  has  been 
experienced  here  in  getting  out  the  ore,  in  consequence  of  the 
veins  being  imbedded  in  the  rock,  but  the  work  of  excavating 
has  been  persevered  in,  until  it  now  promises  well.  The  ore 
improves  as  it  progresses  downward,  and  the  veins  grow  wider. 
The  close  proximity  of  this  mine  to  the  lake  gives  it  an  ad- 
vantage over  those  more  distant,  as  the  cost  of  transportation 
will  be  materially  lessened.  There  are  many  locations  within 
the  district  which  we  passed  over,  that  we  did  not  visit.  They 
are  not  yet  opened,  and  we  did  not  think  it  proper  to  describe 


''^'i 
"« 


70 


LAKE    SUPERIOR 


i!li 


them  until  they  should  be,  and  their  value  ascertained.    This 
will  probably  be  done  at  no  distant  day." — Report  of  1856. 

Carp  and  Bead  rivers  both  flow  into  Lake  Superior,  near 
Marquette,  on  eiwh  side  of  which  there  are  rapids  and  falls  of 
great  beauty,  affording  good  water-power.  Chocolate  River 
also  flows  into  the  lake  some  two  or  three  miles  east  of  Marquette, 
but  through  a  different  geological  formation. 

On  leaving  Marquette,  the  steamer  usually  runs  in  a  N.W. 
direction,  passing  Pre^que  lie.  Granite  Point,  and  Granite 
Island,  the  lat*er  having  two  vertical  walls  of  trap  20  feet 
high  and  12  feet  apart,  forming  a  good  boat-harbor. 

SrANARD*s  Rock,  discovered  by  Captain  Stanard  in  1835, 
while  in  the  employ  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  sailing 
the  schooner  John  Jacob  Astor,  is  a  solitary  and  dangerous 
bare  rocky  projection,  rising  out  of  the  lake,  off  the  mouth  of 
Keweenaw  Bay,  in  the  route  of  the  steamers  on  their  way  from 
Marquette  to  Copper  Harbor,  65  miles. 

L'Ance  is  an  excellent  harbor,  where  is  a  small  settlement, 
situated  at  the  head  of  Keweenaw  Bay.  A  short  distance  north 
are  located  a  Roman  Catholic  and  Methodist  mission  house  and 
church.  The  Catholic  being  on  the  west  shore  of  the  bay,  and 
the  Methodist  on  the  east,  both  are  surrounded  by  Indian 
tribes  and  settlements.  This  locality,  at  no  diatant  day,  must 
become  an  important  point,  being  favorably  situated  between 
the  iron  and  copper  regions  of  Lake  Superior. 

Portage  ExVtry,  situ»^ted  on  the  west  shore  of  KeweenaTf 
Bay,  about  fifteen  miles  north  of  L'Ance,  at  the  outlet  of  Port- 
age Lake,  is  a  new  and  important  place,  from  whence  some  of 
the  rich  copper  ore  of  this  region  is  exported. 

Portage  Lake  is  an  extensive  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
extending  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  entire  breadth  of  thb 
peninsula  of  Kev.eenaw  Point,  in  the  county  of  Houghton,  h 
receives  a  number  of  small  streams,  draining  the  rich  copper 
region  of  Lake  Superior.  No  portion  of  the  south  shore  of  Lake 
Superior  exceeds  this  lake  and  its  vicinity  as  a  resort  for  health 
and  pleasure. 


Keweb:v 
mto  Lake  S 
about  sixty 
ward  of  1( 
abounds  in  i 
of  the  latter 
such  large  i 
rated  for  th( 
1,000  to  5,0 
markets.  T 
cing  specim.e 

Manitou 
light-house 
The  island  if 

Copper  L 
shore  of  Ke^ 
the  best  har 
600  inhabits 
and  storehoi 
has  been  con 
for  the  accoi 

The  coppe: 
mg,  are  ver 

Agate  H 
I  name  of  a  so 
I  as  yet  by  st( 

Eagle  IL 
[steamboat  la 
soveral  ston 
m!l:is  and  uf 


LAKE    8UPERI6R. 


1 


Kewee.vaw  Point*  is  a  large  exten«,  of  land  jutting  out 
into  Lake  Superior,  from  ten  to  twenty-five  miles  wide,  and 
about  sixty  miles  in  length.  This  section  of  country  for  up- 
ward of  100  miles»  running  from  southwest  to  northeast, 
abounds  in  silver  and  copper  ores,  yielding  immense  quantities 
of  the  latter ;  much  of  it  being  pure  native  copper,  but  often  in 
such  large  masses  as  to  render  it  almost  impossible  to  be  sepa- 
rated for  the  purpose  of  transportation.  Masses  weighing  from 
1,000  to  5,000  pounds  are  often  sent  forward  to  the  Eastern 
markets.  The  geological  formation  is  very  interesting,  produ- 
cing specimens  of  rare  beauty  and  much  value. 

Manitou  Island  lies  oflf  Keweenaw  Point,  on  which  is  a 
light-house  to  guide  the  mariner  to  and  from  Copper  Harbor. 
The  island  is  about  seven  miles  in  length  and  four  wide. 

Copper  Karbor,  Houghton  Co.,  Mch.,  situated  on  the  north 
shore  of  Keweenaw  Point,  260  miles  from  the  Saut,  is  one  of 
the  best  harbors  on  Lake  Superior.  The  village  contains  about 
600  inhabitants,  a  church,  and  two  hotels,  besides  several  stores 
and  storehouses.  Fort  Wilkins,  formerly  a  U.  S.  military  post, 
has  been  converted  into  a  hotel  and  water-cure  establishment 
for  t1ie  accommodation  of  visitors  and  invalids. 

The  copper  mines  are  from  four  to  six  miles  back  of  the  land- 
ing, are  very  productive,  and  well  worthy  a  visit. 

Agate  Harbor,  ten  miles  west  of  Copper  Harbor,  is  the 
I  name  of  a  small  settlement.  This  port,  is  not  much  frequented 
I  as  yet  by  steamers. 

Eagle  Harbor,  16  miles  west  of  Copper  Harbor,  is  a  good 
[steamboat  landing.  Here  is  a  good  public-house,  together  with 
several  stores  and  storehouses.  The  mines  are  situated  three 
ua'.las  and  upward  from  the  landing. 


*  "  On  many  maps  spelled  Keweeicaiwona^  and  otherwise.  Pronounced 
jl)y  our  Indians,  *  Kl-wi-wai-non-hig,'  now  written  and  pronounced  as 
above;  meaning  a  portaae,  or  place  where  a  portage  is  made — the 
V,  hole  distance  of  some  efehty  or  ninety  miles  around  the  Point  being 
ttved  by  entering  Portage  Lake  and  following  np  a  small  stream,  leaving 
I  portage  of  only  about  a  half  mile  to  Lake  Superior  on  the  other  side."— 
ViMtUr  and  Whitney^a  KeporU 


72 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


If 


Eagle  River  Harbor  and  village  are  favorably  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  a  stream  of  the  same  name.  Here  is  a  thriving 
settlement,  it  being  the  outlet  of  the  celebrated  Cliflf  and  North 
American  Copper  mines,  two  of  the  most  successful  copper  min- 
ing companies  probablj'  in  this  or  any  other  country.  licre 
the  lamented  Dr.  Houghton  was  drowned,  October,  1845,  while 
engaged  in  exploring  this  section  of  country — Keweenaw  Point 
and  adjacent  country  being  very  appropriately  named  Hough- 
ton County  in  honor  of  his  memory. 

The  following  is  an  account  of  the  melancholy  death  of  Dr. 
Houghton : 

"  By  a  friend  direct  from  Lake  Superior,  we  have  the  painful 
intelligence  of  the  death  of  Dr.  Douglas  Houghton,  State  Geolo- 

§ist  of  Michigan,  who,  with  two  voyageurs  or  half-breeds,  was 
rowned  by  the  swamping  of  their  boat  on  Lake  Supeiior 
during  a  storm  on  the  13th  of  October,  1845,  as  they  were  com- 
ing down  from  a  portage  to  Copper  Harbor.  They  were 
swamped  about  a  mild  and  a  half  from  Eagle  River.  Dr. 
Houghton  had  been  for  some  time  engaged  in  a  geological  and 
linear  survey  of  the  Copper  Region  for  the  Federal  Government, 
and  was  engaged  in  the  discharge  of  this  duty  when  he  met 
with  his  lamented  end.  He  was  about  50  years  old,  univer- 
sally beloved  by  those  who  knew  him,  and  had  \y  years  of  pa- 
tient toil  and  study  acquired  a  knowledge  of  the  Mineral  Re- 
gion which  no  living  man  possesses  or  can  for  years  acquire. 
His  death  is  not  Qnl,y  a  sore  blow  to  his  family  and  numerous 
friends,  but  a  public  calamity.  His  body  had  not  been  recov- 
ered on  the  22d,  when  our  informant  left,  though  search  had 
been  made  for  it.  The  body  of  one  of  his  voyageurs  (Pequettej 
had  been  found,  with  a  few  pieces  of  the  boat.  There  were  four 
with  him  at  the  time  of  the  disaster,  two  of  whom  were  hurled 
by  the  waves  upon  the  rocks,  ten  feet  above  the  usual  level  of 
the  waters  " 

Ontonagon,  Ontonagon  Co.,  Mich.,  836  miles  from  the  Sant 
Ste  Marie,  is  advantageously  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
of  the  same  name.  The  river  is  about  200  feet  wide  at  its 
mouth,  with  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  over  the  bar  for  large 
steamers.  Here  is  being  erected  an  extensive  pier  and  break- 
water. The  village  contains  an  Episcopal,  a  Presbyterian,  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  church;  three  good  hotels,  the  Bigelovf 


House  being 
and  storehoi 
In  this  vi« 
National,  tl 
per  mines, 
ing,  being  ii 
naw  Point 
here  found  i 
copper  ore, 

«*  During 
152  tons  1, 
weighed  7,1 
that  districi 

"The  Roc 
Some  of  th< 
which  have 


*'We  hav 
and  conden 
concerning 

"  Ontona 
Miner  thin 
on  the  lak 
were  erecte 
amount  of  i 

«  The  Mi 
luring  the 
copper.  0 
The  copper 
now  eraploj 
537  persons 

"  The  R 
also  report* 

"  Great 
harbor,  an 

*'A11  th 
largely  dui 
pected. 

"  It  won 
trade  with 
we  mi8tak< 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


78 


[tuated  at 
thriviiig 
^nd  North 
)per  min- 
ry.  licre 
i45,  while 
law  Point 
\d  Hough- 

ith  of  Dr. 


e  painful 
ate  Geolo- 
reeds,  was 
>  Superior 
were  com- 
'hey  were 
iver.  Dr. 
ogical  and 
vernment, 
en  he  met 
Id,  nniver- 
sars  of  pa- 
[ineral  He- 
's acquire, 
numerous 
►een  recov- 
search  had 
(Pequetto; 
I  were  four 
ere  hurled 
al  level  of 


n  the  Sant 
f  the  river 
ide  at  its 
r  for  large 
nd  break- 
erian,  and 
B  Bigelov 


House  being  the  largest;  2  steam  saw- mills,  and  10  or  12  stores 
and  storehouses,  and  about  1,500  inhabitants. 

In  this  vicinity  are  located  the  Minnesota,  the  Norwich,  the 
National,  the  Rockland,  and  several  other  very  productive  cop- 
per mines.  The  ore  is  found  from  12  to  15  miles  from  the  land- 
ing, being  imbedded  in  a  range  of  high  hills  traversing  Kewee- 
naw Point  from  N.E.  to  S.VV.  for  about  100  miles.  Silver  is 
here  found  in  small  quantities,  beautifully  intermixed  with  the 
copper  ore,  which  abounds  in  great  masses. 

"  During  the  month  of  July,  1856,  the  Minnesota  Mine  raised 
152  tons  1,272  pounds  of  copper.  One  mass  from  this  mine 
weighed  7,122  pounds — the  largest,  we  believe,  yet  sent  from 
that  district. 

"  The  Rockland  raised  in  the  same  month  30  tons  848  pounds. 
Some  of  the  masses  raised  were  the  most  beautiful  and  pure 
which  have  ever  been  seen  upon  the  lake." 


LAKE  SUPEEIOR  INTELLIGENCE. 

♦*  We  have  received  a  late  copy  of  the  Lake  Superior  Miner y, 
and  condense  from  its  columns  some  interesting  intelligence - 
concerning  Lake  Superior  matters. 

"  Ontonagon  is  said  to  be  improving  very  rapidly,  and  the^ 
Miner  thinks  it  destined  to  become  the  most  important  point 
on  the  lake  shore.     During  1856,  some  forty  new  buildings 
were  erected,  various  streets  graded  and  planked,  and  a  large- 
amount  of  real  estate  sold  to  actual  settlers. 

"  The  Minnesota  Mine,  fifteen  miles  from  Ontonagon,  shipped'. 
luring  the  year  ending  January  1,  1857,  3,718,403  pounds  of 
copper.     Of  this  amount  only  255,854  pounds  was  stamp  work. . 
The  copper  will  probably  be  found  of  a  high  purity.     There  are 
now  employed  on  the  location,  above  and  below  ground,  some 
537  persons. 

'*The  Rockland,  National,  Nebraska,  and  other  mines,  are 
also  reported  as  raising  large  quantities  of  copper. 

''Great  improvements  have  been  made  on  the  Ontonagon 
harbor,  and  several  new  docks  and  piers  erected. 

''All  the  mines  are  making  preparations  to  ship  copper 
largely  during  the  coming  season,  when  '  lively  times'  are  ez^ 
pected. 

"  It  would  be  weU  for  oar  Eastern  merchants  to  open  a  larger- 
trade  with  Lake  Superior,  in  which  there  is  a  good  chance,  if 
we  mistake  not,  for  investments  of  a  most  profitable  nature." 

7 


1 


n 


nil 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


COPPPEE  MINING  MATTEE8. 


"  The  Minnesota  has  raised  during  the  year  ending  Jan.  Ist, 
1857,  3,718,403  pounds  of  copper.  'Hxey  have  built  during  the 
year  one  very  fine  warehouse  and  office,  26  by  60,  an  excellent 
agent's  house,  a  minister's  house,  and  a  new  engine-house. 

*'  The  following  is  the  product  of  the  year  1866,  by  months 
In  that  time  the  Minnesota  leads  the  Cliff,  in  mine  production, 
by  more  than  200  tons,  and  we  think  the  difference  in  ingot 
copper  will  be  still  greater  in  favor  of  the  former  mine. 

January 318,1T7 

February. 806,682 

March 8^^0,488 

April 818,811 

Mkv 805,117 

Juno 808,123 


July 805,272 

August 80!»,7ai 

September. 800,201 

October 8or,ia^ 

November. 813,87'2 

December 800,994 


Total  pounds,  nett 8,718,408 

Or  1,S59  tons  408  pounds. 

*•  The  CVty  raised,  during  the  year  preceding  December  1, 
1866,  at  which  their  fiscal  year  terminates,  8,291,229  pounds 
of  copper,  or  1,654  tons  and  1 ,239  pounds.  They  raised  during 
the  preceding  year  a  little  less  than  1,489  tons,  which  shows  an 
increase  of  about  149  tons  in  favor  of  the  year  just  past. 

**  The  following  additional  shipments  were  made  by  the 
Various  mines  on  the  Point  during  the  last  season.  We  can 
only  regret  that  we  are  not  able  to  make  the  list  complete  at 
present. 

North  America 645,498 

Rockland 898,188 

Connecticut 44,080 


Central 105,487 

Northwestern 80,688 

Copper  Falls,  about 896,000 


(( 


Qnincy 20 

Fewabic 108 


This  last-named  mine  shipped  some  pounds  more  than  the 
amount  in  the  table. 

"  The  following  is  the  amount  in  round  tons  shipped  from  the 
Portage  Lake  District. 

IsleRoyale 298 

Portage 101 

Huron 22 

La  Pointe,  La  Pointe  Co.,  Wis.,  situated  on  Madeline  Island, 
one  of  the  group  of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  410  miles  from  the 
Saut,  and  83  miles  from  Superior  City,  is  a  highly  important 
place.  It  was  early  settled  by  the  Jesuits  and  American  Fur 
Traders.  The  population  consists  of  a  mixture  of  Indians, 
French  Canadians,  and  Americans.  In  addition  to  its  fur  trade, 
La  Tointe  has  long  been  the  favorite  resort  of  the  "  red  man" 


indthe  *'pa 
88  the  spirit 
country.  H( 
best  fishing-g 

The  TwEL 
Line,  Sugar, 
and  Presque 
together  a  si 
the  summer  i 
Here  are  to  1 
200  feet  aboi 
with  a  rich  f 

Bayfield 
has  a  good  1 
from  whence 
120  miles  to 
the  above  ri^ 

Ashland, 
wamegon  Ba 
rise  to  some 
harbor. 

Maskeg  I 
small  lakes,  < 
some  ten  mil( 
mg  the  boun 
Wigconain. 

On  proceed 
passes  aroui 
du  Lac,  a  n( 
may  be  saic 
in  good  fishi 

SUPERIOI 

udvantageoi 
of  the  lake,: 
two  hotels, 
1,500  inha 


ag  Jan.  Ist, 
during  the 
n  excellent 
-house, 
by  months 
production, 
ce  in  ingot 
ine. 

....  805,272 

...  80!>,7«l 

...  800,201 

...  80r,l«.N 

...  813,872 

...  800,994 

....  8,718,408 

)ccember  1, 
,229  pounds 
lised  during 
h  shows  an 
past. 

ade  by  the 
n.  We  can 
complete  at 

105,487 

80,688 

896,000 

re  than  the 
ed  from  the 


LAKR    SUPICKIOR. 


75 


20 
108 


iline  Island, 
;s  from  the 
J  important 
lerican  Fur 
of  Indians, 
s  fur  trade, 
'<  red  man" 


ind  the  **  pale  face;**  the  former  will  no  doubt  soon  disappear, 
B8  the  spirit  of  speculation  has  entered  this  whole  region  of 
country.  Here,  among  the  islands,  are  to  be  found  some  of  the 
best  fishing-grounds  for  which  Lake  Superior  is  so  justly  famed. 

The  Twelve  Apostles'  Isles  consist  of  the  Madeline,  Gap, 
Line,  Sugar,  Oak,  Otter,  Bear,  Kock,  Cat,  Ironwood,  Outer, 
and  Presque  Isle,  besides  a  few  smaller  islands,  Ijeing  crrouped 
together  a  short  distance  off  the  mainland,  presenting  during 
the  summer  months  a  most  picturesque  and  loTely  appoarance. 
Here  are  to  be  seen  clay  and  sandstone  cliffs  rising  from  100  to 
200  feet  above  the  waters,  while  most  of  the  islands  are  clothed 
with  a  rich  foliage  of  forest  trees. 

Bayfield,  La  Pointe  Co.,  Wis. ,  three  miles  west  of  La  Pointe, 
has  a  good  harbor.  The  village  is  situateci  on  the  mainland, 
from  whence  it  is  proposed  to  bv'!d  a  railroad  for  a  distan^se  of 
120  miles  to  the  St.  Croix  River,  t«  minating  at  a  point  where 
the  above  river  becomes  navigable. 

Ashland,  12  miles  south  of  La  Pointe,  at  the  head  of  Chag- 
wamegon  Bay,  is  another  new  settlement  no  doubt  destined  to  < 
rise  to  some  importance,  it   .aving  a  very  spacious  and  secure 
harbor. 

Maskeg  River,  a  considerable  stream,  the  outlet  of  several 
small  lakes,  enters  Lake  Superior  about  15  miles  east  of  Ashland , 
some  ten  miles  fai  ther  eastward  entern  Montreal  River,  form- 
mg  the  boundary,  in  part,  between  the  States  of  Michigan  and 
Wigconsin. 

On  proceeding  from  La  Pointe  westward,  the  steamer  usually 
passes  around  Point  de  Tour,  ten  miles  north,  and  enters  Fond 
(lu  Lac,  a  noble  bay  situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior.  It 
may  be  said  to  be  50  miles  long  and  20  miles  wide,  abounding 
in  good  fishing-grounds. 

Superior,  or  Superior  City,  Douglass  Co ,  Wis.,  is  most 
advantageously  situated  on  a  bay  of  Superior,  at  the  west  end 
of  the  lake,  near  the  mouth  of  St.  Louis  River.  Here  is  a  church, 
two  hotels,  and  ten  or  fifteen  stores  and  storehouses,  and  about 
1,500  inhabitants.    A  small  river  called  the  Nemadji  runs 


i 


76 


LAKK    SUPKIIIOK. 


through  Superior,  and  enters  into  the  bay.  Perhaps  no  plaoe 
on  L&ke  Superior  has  commercial  advantages  equal  to  tliis  town; 
Its  future  is  magnified  almost  beyond  conception.  The  St,  Croix 
am/  Superior  Railroad  is  proposed  to  terminate  at  this  place, 
extending  southward  to  Hudson  on  the  St.  Croix  River,  about 
140  miles.  Another  railroad  is  proposed  to  extend  westward 
to  the  Sauk  Rapids,  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  either  from  ibis 
place  or  Portland,  Min. 


NOTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


From  a  Correnponderd  qf  t/ie  Buffalo  Courier. 
Ontonagon — La  Pointe— Superior  City. 

Dated,  St.  Paul,  Miniv.,  August,  1856. 

*•  On  Sunday  we  attended  church  in  Ontonagon,  situated  on 
the  south  shore  of  Lake  Superior.  There  are,  I  believe,  four 
congregations,  viz.,  Presbyterian,  Episcopalian,  Methodist,  and 
Catholic.  Their  houses  of  worship  bear  the  characteristics 
of  the  place;  they  are  hasty  but  comfortable  edifices,  which,  as 
the  place  advances,  must  give  way  to  more  substantial  and  taste- 
ful structures. 

On  Monday  the  fcteamer  "  Lady  Elgin"  arrived,  bound  for 
Superior  City.  We  got  on  board  about  half-past  three  o'clock, 
and  left,  without  any  poignant  regret,  the  young,  but  ambitious 
Ontonagon. 

*•  We  arrived  at  La  Pointe  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening,  situ- 
ated on  the  southern  extremity  of  Madeline  Island,  the  largest 
of  the  group  denominated  the  Apostles'  Mauds.  La  Pointe 
has  been  a  place  of  considerable  importance  as  a  fur-trading 
post,  and  is  still  a  common  resort  of  the  Indians  desiring  to  sell 
furs  or  obtain  supplies.  Speculators  have  seized  upon  it,  and 
to  believe  their  representations,  it  is  about  the  only  place  of  any 
consequence  upon  the  lake.  How  much  of  a  village  it  is,  or 
how  it  is  situated,  the  shades  of  night  prevented  me  from  observ- 
ing. I  watched,  however,  when  a  passenger  came  on  board,  and 
observed  his  feet  clogged  with  clay ;  so  I  concluded  that  the 
island  had  a  clay  soil. 

"  In  the  morning  of  the  following  day  we  found  ourselves 
maneuvering  to  get  into  the  harbor  of  Superior.  This  place 
has  one  of  most  beautiful  natural  harbors  that  I  ever  witnessed 
The  town  is  situated  on  the  extreme  end  of  Lake  Superior,  on  a 
geiatle  declivity  overlooking  the  water.  Immediately  in  front  a 
long,  narrow  strip  of  land  shoots  across,  cutting  off  a  couuno- 


dious  and 
seems  almo 
it  adapted 
that  is  a  so 
outlay.  B* 
of  these  la] 
narrow  and 
kept  at  WO] 
relieve  it  fi 

Wahbac 
on  the  Wif 
Indian  vilk 
the  northe] 
accessible  I 
of  Superioi 
River  thai 
without  ore 

Gordon, 
St.  Croix  a 
tween  Supe 
capitalists. 

DiBTA 

Fond-du-I 
Pokagema, 
Falls  St. 
Marine  Mi 
Stillwater, 
St.  Paul, 

Distance 
by  propose 
76  miles. 

DiSTi 

Superior. 
Crow  Win 
Otter  Tail 
Rice  River 
Sand  Hills 
Grand  Foi 
Pembina. 

From  St 


LAKZ    SUPERIOR. 


TT 


6  no  plaoe 

this  town; 

St.  Croix 

this  place, 

ver,  about 

westward 

from  this 


gu8f,  1856. 

jituated  on 
jlieve,  four 
loclist,  and 
acteristics 
,  which,  as 
[  and  taste- 

bound  for 
reo  o'clock, 
^  ambitious 

ning,  situ- 
the  largest 
La  Pointe 
ur-trading 
ring  to  sell 
pon  it,  and 
lace  of  any 
rQ  it  is,  or 
'om  observ- 
board, and 
id  that  the 

I  ourselves 
This  place 
'  witnessed 
)erior,  on  a 
f  in  front  a 
F  a  commo- 


dious and  perfectly  secure  harbor.  This  r:itural  breakwater 
seems  almost  to  have  been  placed  there  artificially,  so  exactly  is 
it  adapted  to  its  purpose.  The  harbor  has  but  one  fault,  and 
that  is  a  serious  one,  yet  which  may  be  remedied  bv  sufficient 
outlay.  Boats  of  a  sufficient  capacity  to  undergo  the  weather 
of  these  lakes  can  not  find  sufficient  depth  of  water,  except  in 
narrow  and  confined  channels  of  the  bay.  A  dred^ng-maohine 
kept  at  work  here  for  a  few  months  would,  I  belieTo,  entirely 
relieve  it  from  these  difficulties." 

Wahbaoon  is  the  name  of  a  new  town  that  has  been  laid  out 
on  the  Wisconsin  side  of  the  St.  Louis  Biyer,  opposite  to  the 
Indian  village  of  Fond  du  Lac,  and  at  the  end  of  nayigation  on 
the  northern  lakes  and  rivers.  It  is  the  farthest  inland  point 
accessible  by  vessels  from  the  ocean — ^being  fourteen  miles  west 
of  Superior.  It  is  said  to  be  the  only  point  on  the  St.  Louis 
River  thai  can  be  reached  by  roads  from  the  south  or  west 
without  crossing  the  river. 

Gordon,  the  name  of  a  new  town  located  on  the  line  of  the 
St.  Croix  and  Lake  Superior  Railroad,  and  about  midway  be- 
tween Superior  and  Hudson,  is  now  attracting  the  attention  of 
capitalists. 

Distances  from  Fond  du  Lac  to  St.  Paul,  Min. 

Fond-du-Lac,  (St.  Louis  River) Miles, 

Pokagema,  {Portage) 76 

Falls  St.  Croix,  {Canoe) 40  116 

Marine  Mills,  {Steamboat) 19  134 

Stillwater,  "  11  146 

St.  Paul,  {Stage) 18  168 

Distance  from  Superior  City  to  St.  Cloud  (Sauk  Rapids), 
by  proposed  railroad  route,  120  miles.  St.  Cloud  to  St.  Paul, 
76  miles.    Total,  196  miles. 

Distances  from  Superior  City  to  Pembina,  Min. 

Superior Miles. 

Crow  Wing , 80 

Otter  Tail  Lake : 70  160 

Rice  River 74  224 

Sand  Hills  River. . . ! 70  294 

Grand  Fork,  (Red  River) 40  334 

Pembina 80  414 

From  St.  Paul  to  Pembina,  via  Crow  Wing 464  miles. 

\  I- 


78 


111! 


i|!'.li/ 


:k 


ill    • 


liili! 
■4t 


I 


ii 
I 

I 


LAKE    8UPEUI0R. 


SUPERIOR   CITY 


The  Superior  Chronicle  of  the  20th  of  JiMi.,  1867,  arrived  by 
mail  a  day  or  two  since,  and  is  pretty  mnch  taken  up  with  a 
•  semi-annual  review  of  the  town  of  Supkrior,  Wisconsin.' 
The  statement  is  highly  flatterins  to  the  enterprise  of  the  cit- 
izens, as  well  as  to  the  natural  advantages  of  the  location— the 
extreme  western  and  northern  point  of  lake  navigation.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  is  about  1 ,500,  being  an  inorease  in  one 
year  of  IKK).  The  nuiubcr  of  houses  in  June,  1866, 19G,  and  in 
January,  1867,  840. 

There  are  in  and  round  the  town  five  saw-mills  in  operation. 
Eight  hundred  thousand  feet  of  lumber  were  imported,  and  one 
million  feet  of  lumber  made  by  the  mills.     The  Chronicle  stiys : 

♦•  The  lands  granted  to  build  a  road  from  Hudson  tx)  Superior, 
and  from  Superior  to  Bayfield,  have  passed  into  the  bands  of 
the  St.  Croix  and  Lake  Superior  Railroad  Company,  and  that 
company  have  contracted  with  Messrs.  Dillon,  Jackson,  Jarrett 
&  Co.  for  the  construction  and  entire  equipment  of  that  portion 
of  the  road  between  Superior  and  Hudson  within  two  years  from 
the  4th  of  July  next.  These  contractors  are  also  obligated  to 
build  a  good  wagon  road  from  this  place  to  the  St.  Croix  River 
this  winter ;  and  also  to  complete,  early  next  spring,  an  ex- 
tensive pier  and  warehouse  on  the  grounds  of  the  company  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Ncmadji  River.  About  sixty  men  are  em- 
ployed in  constructing  the  wagon  road,  and  parties  are  pic- 
paring  the  piles  and  timbers  for  the  docks  and  warehouses. 
The  contractors  have  about  $10,000  worth  of  provisions  and 
supplies  for  next  Hummer's  operations  distributed  along  this  end 
of  the  line.  Next  season  the  work  on  the  road  is  to  be  com- 
menced at  three  different  points — Superior,  Gordon,  and  Hud- 
son ;  and  on  this  division  one  thousand  men  vrill  be  employed. 

"  The  St.  Croix  and  Lake  Superior  Railroad  Company  in- 
tend erecting  next  spring  a  substantial  dock  and  warehouse  on 
their  depot  grounds  at  the  mouih  of  the  Nemadji  River.  The 
dock  will  be  three  hundred  feet  long  by  fifty  wide,  and  the 
warehouse  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  front  by  forty  deep,  tl  ( 
timbers  for  which  are  now  being  got  out,  and  the  first  install- 
ment is  to  be  delivered  on  the  ground  the  present  week. 

"  The  proprietors  of  Superior  are  constructing  a  very  ex- 
tensive dock  on  the  river  bank  opposite  to  the  depot  grounds  of 
the  railroad  company.  It  commences  on  the  bay  front,  about 
seven  hundred  feet  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  runs  from 
thence  a  distance  of  two  thousand  feet.  It  is  to  be  fifty  feet 
wide,  and  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  causeway  over  the 
marsh  at  the  foot  of  Robinson  Avenue. 


"  A  comp 
summer,  wit 
contract,  an 
collecting  as 
of  the  stock] 
proposed  to  ( 
next  summe 
not  pcrfcctei 

•'  {Several 
$16,0tK)  to  \ 
matters  intr 
been  unnecc 
limitation  a 
feel  pretty  g 
opening  of  i 

"  The  arr 
following  CO] 

Yen  H. 
1854... 
1S65.... 
1868.... 

"This  tal 
Bels,  and  an 

PORTLAN 

the  extreme 
Supetior  Ci 
good  steami 
of  the  coum 
Superior  Ci 
Pacific  coasi 
seen  bold  s 
mineral  wes 
Fond  du 
River,  20  m 
of  a  large  c 
the  St.  Loui 
an  immense 
ties,  from  v< 
used  for  bui 
vicinity.  T 
of  oommerc< 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


79 


rrived  by 
ip  with  a 
isconsin.' 
f  the  cit- 
tion— the 
ion.  The 
ise  in  one 
6,  and  in 

>peration. 
and  one 
icle  says : 
Superior, 
bands  of 
and  that 
1,  Jarrett 
it  portion 
ears  from 
igated  to 
[oix  River 
g,  an  ex- 
mpany  at 
L  are  em- 
are  pic- 
irehouses. 
sions  and 
5  this  end 
0  be  com- 
),nd  Hud- 
iploycd. 
pany  in- 
ehouse  on 
irer.  The 
,  and  the 
deep,  tl  ( 
!t  instaU- 

very  cx- 
rounds  of 
int,  about 
runs  from 

fifty  feet 
T  oyer  the 


"  A  company  to  erect  a  Masonic  Hall  was  organized  last 
anmmer,  witli  a  capital  stock  of  $7,000.  It  was  placed  under 
contract,  and  the  work  begun,  but  owing  to  the  difficulty  in 
collecting  assessments  in  consequence  of  the  absence  of  many 
of  the  stockholders,  it  was  suspended  until  next  spring.  It  ia 
proposed  to  erect  a  Tery  large  notel  in  the  Ticinity  of  tliis  Hall 
next  summer,  at  a  cost  of  $80,000,  but  as  the  organization  is 
not  perfected,  we  can  make  but  a  brief  inllusion  to  it. 

"  Several  years  ago  Congress  made  an  appropriation  of 
$15,0(K)  to  build  a  light-house  at  this  pUce ;  but,  lilce  all  other 
matters  intrn;ated  to  government  officials,  its  commencement  has 
been  unnecessarily  delayed.  It  is  under  contract,  and  as  the 
limitation  allowed  for  its  completion  will  expire  next  fall,  we 
feel  pretty  sure  that  its  construction  will  be  commenced  on  the 
opening  of  navigation. 

"  The  arrivals  at  this  port  for  the  past  three  years  boar  the 
following  comparison : 


Yen  H. 
1854. 
1S65. 
1866. 


StcamhoHta. 
....  2     ... 
....28     ... 
....40    ... 


SalHug  VeuelR. 
...  6  .... 
...  10  .... 
...     16    .... 


ToIkI. 

7 

06 


"This  table  jhoi^s  an  increase  in  1856  over  1?''A  of  20  ves- 
sels, and  an  increase  '.n  1856  over  1855  of  23  vessels." 

Portland,  St.  Louis  Co.,  Min.,  advantageously  situated  at 
the  extreme  west  end  of  Lake  Superior,  sever  miles  N.W.  from 
Superior  City,  is  a  place  of  growing  importance,  where  is  a 
good  steamboat  landing,  vriih.  bold  shore.  This  is  the  capital 
of  the  county,  and  bids  fair  to  be  a  successful  competitor  with 
Superior  City  for  the  carrying  trade  of  the  Great  West  and 
Pacific  coa^t.  Along  the  shore  of  the  lake  northward  are  to  be 
seen  bold  sandy  blufifs  and  highlands,  supposed  to  bv'  rich  in 
mineral  wealth. 

Fond  du  Lac,  St.  Louis  Co.,  Min.,  is  situated  on  St.  Louis 
River,  20  miles  above  its  entrance  into  Lake  Superior.  Vessels 
of  a  large  class  ascend  to  this  place,  being  within  four  miles  of 
the  St.  Louis  Falls,  having  a  descent  of  about  CO  feet,  affording 
an  immense  water-power.  Here  are  sandstone  and  blato  quar- 
ries, from  which  stone  and  slate  are  quarried,  and  extcjnsively 
used  for  building  purposes.  Iron  and  copper  ore  abound  in  the 
yicinity.  These  advantages  bid  fair  to  moke  his  point  a  mart 
of  commerce  and  m'^nufacture. 


i 


I 


\  1 


i 


80 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


ffill 


St.  Louis  River,  flowing  into  the  S.W.  end  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior, is  a  large  and  important  stream,  and  ie  nayigablo  for 
steamers  and  lake  craft  for  upward  of  20  miles  from  its  mouth. 
Above  the  falls  (where  the  water  has  a  descent  of  60  feet,  pre- 
senting a  beautifiil  appearance),  the  river  is  navigable  for  canoes 
and  small  craft  for  about  80  miles  farther.  This  river  is  the 
recipient  of  the  waters  of  several  small  lakes  lying  almost  due 
north  of  its  outlet,  its  head  waters  flowing  south  from  near 
Rainy  Lake. 

Clifton,  St.  Louis  Co.,  Min.,  situated  11  miles  N.E.  of  the 
head  of  Lake  Superior,  is  a  new  settlement.  In  the  vicinity 
are  rich  copper  mines  and  good  farming  lands. 

Burlington  is  another  new  settlement,  situated  northeast 
of  Clifton,  possessing  similar  advantages. 

Encampment  is  the  name  cf  a  ri\er,  island,  and  village, 
where  is  a  good  harbor,  the  mouth  of  vhe  river  being  protected 
by  the  island.  On  the  river,  near  its  entrance  into  the  lake, 
are  falls  affording  fine  water-power.  Cliffs  of  greenstone  are  to 
be  seen,  rising  from  200  to  800  feet  above  the  water's  edge,  pre- 
senting a  handsome  appearance.  To  the  north  of  Encampment, 
along  the  lake  shore,  abound  porphyry  and  greenstone.  This 
locality  is  noted  for  a  great  agitation  of  the  magnetic  needle ; 
the  depth  of  water  in  the  vicinity  is  too  great  for  vessels  to 
anchor,  the  shores  being  remarkably  bold,  and  in  some  places 
rise  from  800  to  1,000  feet  above  the  water. 

Hiawatha  is  another  new  settlement,  situated  on  the  y.  est 
shore  of  Lake  Superior,  where  is  found  copper  oia  and  other 
valuable  minerals,  precious  stones,  etc. 

Grand  Portage,  Min.,  advantageously  situated  on  a  secure 
bay,  near  the  mouth  of  Pigeon  River,  is  suk  old  station  of  the 
American  Fur  Company.  Here  is  a  Roman  Catholic  Mission,  a 
block-house,  and  some  12  or  15  dwellings.  Mountains  from  800 
to  1,000  feet  are  here  seen  rising  abruptly  from  the  water's 
edge,  presenting  a  bold  and  sublime  appearance. 

Pigeon  Bay  and  River  forms  the  northwest  boundary 
between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  or  the  Hudson  Bay 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


81 


ce  Snpe- 
ablo  for 
s  mouth, 
eet,  pre- 
)r  canoes 
jr  is  the 
nost  due 
om  near 

!.  of  the 
vicinity 

lortheast 

I  village, 
protected 
the  lake, 
>ne  are  to 
(dge,  pre- 
bmpment, 
le.    This 

0  needle; 
(ressels  to 
ae  places 

the  T.  est 
md  other 

1  a  seen  re 
ion  of  the 
Mission,  a 
I  from  800 
le  "water's 

boundary 
dson  Bay 


Company's  territory.  Pigeon  River  is  but  a  second-class  stream, 
and  by  its  junction  with  Arrow  River  continues  the  boundary 
through  Rainy  Lake  and  River  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods, 
where  the  49th  degree  of  north  latitude  is  reached.  The  mouth 
of  Pigeon  River  is  about  48  degrees  north  latitude,  and  89  de- 
grees 30  minutes  west  from  Greenwich. 

Along  the  whole  west  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  from  St.  Louis 
River  to  Pigeon  River,  are  alternations  of  metamorpliosed 
scliists  and  sandstone,  with  volcanic  grits  and  other  imbedded 
traps  and  porphyry,  with  elevations  rising  from  800  to  1,200 
feet  above  the  lake,  often  presenting  a  grand  appearance. 

Pie  Island,  lying  northeast  of  Grand  Portage,  is  a  large 
island  belonging  to  the  British.  Hills  some  700  feet  in  height 
are  here  to  be  seen,  presenting  a  wild  and  romantic  appearance, 
being  formed  in  part  of  green  rock. 

Thunder  Cape  is  a  bold  promontory  on  the  north,  rising 
1,350  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  lake;  inside  of  this  point 
■    lies  Thunder  Bay^  a  large  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water. 

Isle  Roy  ale,  Houghton  Co.,  Mich.,  being  about  45  miles  in 
length  from  N.p.  to  S.W.,  and  from  8  to  12  miles  in  width,  is 
a  rich  and  important  island,  abounding  in  copper  ore  and  other 
minerals,  and  also  precious  stones.  The  principal  harbor  and 
only  settlement  is  on  Siskowit  Bay,  being  on  the  east  shore  of 
the  island,  about  50  miles  distant  from  Eagle  Harbor,  on  the 
main  shore  of  Michigan. 

The  other  harbors  are — ^Washington  Harbor  on  the  south- 
west, Todd's  harbor  on  the  west,  and  Rock  Harbor  and  Chip- 
pewa Harbor  on  the  northeast  part  of  the  island.  In  some 
places  on  the  west  are  perpcriicular  cliffe  of  greenstone,  very 
bold,  rising  from  the  water's  edge,  while  on  the  eastern  shore 
conglomerate  rock  or  coarse  sandstone  abounds,  with  occasional 
stony  beach.  On  this  coast  are  many  islets  and  rocks  of  sand- 
stone, rendering  navigation  somewhat  dangerous.  Good  fish- 
ing grounds  abound  all  around  this  island,  which  will,  no 
doubt,  before  many  years,  become  a  favorite  summer  resort  for 
the  invalid  and  sportsman,  as  well  as  the  scientific  tourist. 


f 


4<< 


: 


's  I 


i; 


r 


82 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


SisKowiT  Lake  is  a  considerable  body  of  water  lying  near 
the  center  of  the  island,  which  apparently  has  no  outlet.  Other 
small  lakes  and  picturesque  inlets  and  bays  abound  in  all  parts 
of  the  island.  Hills,  rising  from  300  to  400  feet  above  the 
waters  of  the  lake,  exist  in  many  localities  throughout  the 
island. 

Fort  William,  an  Hudson  Bay  Company's  post,  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  Kaministequoi  River,  is  a  very  important  locality. 
Besides  the  fort  and  Company's  buildings,  here  is  a  Roman 
Catholic  Mission  and  some  200  resident  inhabitants  of  a  mixed 
character,  mostly  in  the  employ  of  the  gigantic  Company,  which 
here  holds  undisputed  sway.  Here  commences  the  Portage  road 
to  Pembina  and  the  Red  River  Settlement. 

The  Kaministequoi  River  is  a  large  and  rapid  stream,  with 
a  fall  of  about  200  feet  perpendicular  descent  some  30  miles 
above  its  mouth.  Canoes  descended  from  this  point  in  about 
four  hours ;  but  the  ascent  is  long  and  tedious.  The  river  ia 
represented  as  containing  many  beautiful  rapids  and  islands, 
also  as  abounding  in  fish  of  various  kinds.  It  empties  its  pure 
waters  into  I'huiider  Bay.  The  scenery  around  Thunder  Bay 
is  very  grand,  the  mountains,  rising  1 ,000  feet  and  upward  above 
the  surface  of  the  water,  have  a  very  imposing  effect. 

Black  Bay  and  River  is  another  important  locality,  being 
in  part  surrounded  by  high  elevations,  presenting  a  romantic 
and  picturesque  appearance. 

JS'eepigon  Bay  and  River,  situated  at  the  north  extremity 
of  Lake  Superior,  is  a  wild  and  almost  unknown  region  d 
country.  The  bay  contains  several  islands,  and  the  river  is 
represented  as  being  a  large  and  rapid  stream  rising  far  toward 
the  nor  !  ,  and  from  thence  flowing  through  a  wilderness  of  great 
picturesque  beauty. 


This  intc 
with  the  tri 
tion  at  the 

"MiNNEHOI 

"It  is  con 
beyond  Cro\ 
facts  in  regj 
to  the  nortn 
its  adaptedn 

*' There  h 
between  Bri 
lied  River  o 
tier,  sure  en 
been  from  tl 
called  Rainj 
itants.  It  ] 
French  wore 
born  there, 
by  British  s 
soil.  The  g 
earn  a  comf< 
is  460  miles 
Crow  Wing, 
able  commi 
about  thirti 
naar  a  large 
Devil's  Lake 

"Now  let 
North,  for  i 
country.  I 
connects  wit 
sluggish  sti 
River  for  ve 
year,  so  thi 
alone  (betw< 
is  400  miles 
tributaries 
choicest  kin 
tul  foliage, 
valley  (tog( 
ducts  into 
genial  life. 

"Red  Ri^ 
vdA  lies  on 


RED    RIVEU    OF    THE    NOUTII. 


83 


nng  near 
t.  Other 
I  all  parts 
above  the 
hout  the 


t 


tuated  at 
locality. 

a  Roman 
a  mixed 

ny,  which 

tage  road 

earn,  with 
>  30  miloj 
in  about 
e  river  i3 
d  islands, 
BS  its  pure 
mder  Bay 
rard  above 

ity,  being 
romantic 

extremity 
region  d 
e  river  k 
ar  toward 
38  of  great 


RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH. 

This  interesting  section  of  country  being  closely  connected 
with  the  trade  of  the  Upper  Lakes,  and  attracting  much  atten- 
tion at  the  present  time,  we  subjoin  the  following  extract  from 
"Minnesota  and  Dacofah,"  by  C.  C.  Andrews — 1857  : 

"  It  is  common  to  say  that  s(  ttlements  have  not  been  extended 
beyond  Crow  Wing,  M.n.  This  is  only  technically  true.  A  few 
facts  in  regard  to  the  people  who  live  four  or  five  hundred  miles 
to  the  nortn  will  best  illustrate  the  nature  of  the  climate  and 
its  adaptedness  to  agriculture. 

*'  There  is  a  settlement  at  Pembina,  where  the  dividing  line 
between  British  America  and  the  United  States  crosses  the 
lied  River  of  the  North.  It  didn't  extend  there  from  our  fron- 
tier, sure  enough.  If  it  extended  from  anywhere,  it  must  have 
been  from  the  north,  or  along  the  confine  of  that  mystic  region 
called  Rainy  Lake.  Pembina  is  said  to  have  about  600  inhab- 
itants. It  is  situated  on  the  Pembina  River.  It  is  an  Indian- 
French  word  meaning  *  Cranberry*  Men  live  there  who  were 
born  there,  and  it  is  in  fact  an  old  settlement.  It  was  founded 
by  British  subjects,  who  thought  they  had  located  on  British 
soil.  The  greater  part  of  its  inhabitants  are  half-breeds,  who 
earn  a  comfortable  livelihood  in  fur-hunting  and  farming.  It 
is  460  miles  northwest  of  St.  Paul,  and  330  miles  distant  from 
Crow  Wing.  Notwithstanding  the  distance,  there  is  consider- 
able communication  between  the  places.  West  of  Pembina, 
about  thirty  miles,  is  a  settlement  callad  St.  Joseph,  situated 
near  a  large  mythological  body  of  water  called  Miniwakiny  or 
Devil's  Lake. 

"  Now  let  me  say  something  about  this  Red  River  of  the 
North,  for  it  is  beginning  to  be  a  great  feature  in  this  upper 
country.  It  runs  north  and  empties  into  Lake  Winnipeg,  which 
connects  with  Hudson  Bay  by  Nelson  River.  It  is  a  muddy  and 
sluggish  stream,  navigable  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sioux  Wood 
River  for  vessels  of  three  feet  draught  for  four  months  in  the 
year,  so  that  the  extent  of  it3  navigation  within  Minnesota 
alone  (between  Pembina  and  the  mouth  of  Sioux  Wood  River) 
is  400  miles.  Buffaloes  still  feed  on  its  western  banks.  Its 
tributaries  are  numerous  and  copious,  abounding  with  the 
choicest  kind  of  game,  and  skirted  with  a  various  and  beauti- 
ful foliage.  It  can  not  be  many  years  before  this  magnificent 
valley  (together  with  the  Saskatchawan)  shall  pour  its  pro- 
ducts into  our  markets,  and  be  the  theater  of  a  busy  and 
genial  life, 

"  Red  River  Settlement  is  seventy  miles  north  of  Pembina, 
*nd  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  river.    Its  population  is  estimated 


-U 


* 


-'^"^ 


■^ 


W' 


n 


lil. 


ili 


il  '''■.«; 


84 


HUDSON    BAV    COMPANY.. 


at  10,000  souls.  It  < /Wed  i\n  >T'icr,A  &v\  growtJi  o  the  enterprise 
and  success  of  the  Hu'^son  C&y  CJompany.  Mt  ^  y  of  tLe  settlers 
came  from  Scotland,  but  tii<b  iiiost  were  froio  tiaiiada.  They 
speak  English  and  Oap.adloin  Fr,  ich.  The  English  style  of 
society  is  well  kept  up,  • 'hcuior  ■yc*'  regard  the  church  with  its 
bishop,  the  trader  with  hib  wir  o-ccllar,  the  scholar  with  his 
library,  the  officer  with  his  sinecure,  or  their  paper  currency. 
The  great  business  of  the  settlement,  of  course,  ia  the  fur 
traffic. 

"  Au  immense  amount  of  buifa-o  skins  is  taken  in  summer 
and  autumn,  while  in  the  winter  smaller  but  more  valuable 
furs  are  procured.  The  Indians  also  enlist  in  the  hunts ;  and 
it  is  estimated  that  upward  of  $200,000  worth  of  furs  are  an- 
nually taken  from  our  territory  and  sold  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company.  It  is  high  time  indeed  that  a  military  post  should 
be  established  somewhere  on  Red  River  by  our  government. 

"The  Hudson  Bay  Company  is  now  a  powerful  monopoly. 
Not  so  magnificent  and  potent  as  the  East  India  Company,  it  is 
still  a  powerful  combination,  showering  opillenco  on  its  members, 
and  reflecting  a  peculiar  feature  in  the  strength  and  grandeur 
of  the  British  empire — a  power,  which,  to  use  the  eloquent 
language  of  Daniel  Webster,  has  dotted  over  the  whole  surface 
of  tne  globe  with  her  poM<«^isions  and  military  posts,  whose 
morning  drum-beat  followijig  the  sun,  and  keeping  company 
with  the  hjurs,  circles  the  earth  daily  with  one  continuous  and 
unbroken  strain  of  martial  music'  The  company  is  growing 
richer  every  year,  and  itn  jurisdiction  and  its  lands  will  soon 
find  an  availability  never  treamed  of  by  its  founders,  unless,  as 
may  possibly  happen,  popn'ar  sovereignty  steps  in  to  grasp 
thefrvits  of  its  long  apprenticeship." 


r  I 


narter  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  expires,  by  its  own 
limiiution,  in  1860,  and  the  question  of  annexing  this  vast 
domain  to  Canada,  or  forming  a  separate  province,  is  now 
deeply  agitating  the  British  public,  both  in  Canada  and  in  the 
mother  country. 


THE  HUDSON  BAY  COMPANY'S  CHARTER. 
From  a  Correspondent  of  the  Toronto  Globe,  dated^  July.,  1856. 

Sir — In  the  year  1670  Charles  the  Second  created  nine  in- 
dividuals a  corporate  body,  and  granted  them  a  charter  under 
the  style  rmd  title  of  the  "  Hudson  Bay  Compare^*  * 

*'  The  preamble  of  the  charter  sets  fo  th,  *  tba   v,  vcrims  cer- 


IIUDSt)N    BAY    COMPANY. 


85 


nterprisc 
e  settlers 
They 
style  of 

with  Us 
with  his 
5urrency. 

the  fur 

summer 
valuable 
nts ;  and 
s  are  an- 
dson  Bay 
st  should 
ment. 
Bonopoly. 
)any,  it  is 
members, 
grandeur 

eloquent 

le  surface 

}ts,  whose 

company 

Quous  and 

s  growing 

I  will  soon 

unless,  as 

to  grasj) 

by  its  own 

this  Tast 

36,  is  now 

,nd  in  the 


^1866. 

i  nine  in- 
ter under 

umas  cer* 


tu'n  i  'irties  had  at  their  own  cost  ard  charges  undertaken  an 
exppf  itioii  for  Hudson  Bay,  for  the  disoovery  of  a  new  passage 
into  ihe  South  Sea,  and  for  fiudin.,  some  trade  for  furs,  mi  lerah, 
and  o^her  consiJernVr'  comT.cati  9,  etc. ;  r  .rkimw  vr  th'^t  wo, 
being  desirous  to  promote  ail  endp^.voM  tending  tv  ti»t3  piJjii;, 
gjod  and  eucourage  the  said  design,  have  grantwl.* 

'*  The  words  of  the  grant  are  these  following : 

"  '  We  lo  give,  grant,  and  confirm  unto  the  said  j(;o\-'v  >  ja'  u"  d 
company,  and  their  successors,  the  sole  trade  and  C(»ni>u3r.v:  of 
all  those  seas,  straits,  bays,  rivers,  lakes,  creeks  and  LO^^r'Jn,  in 
whatsoever  latitude  they  shall  be,  that  lie  within  the  entrance 
of  the  strait  commonly  called  Hudson  Straity  together  witli 
ail  the  lands  aiid  territories  upon  tha  countries,  coasts  and  con- 
fines of  the  seas,  bays,  lakes,  rivers,  creeks  and  sounds  aforesaid, 
that  are  not  already  actually  possessed  by  the  subjects  of;'  any 
other  Christian  prince  or  state ;  with  the  fishery  of  all  sorts  of 
fish,  yfhales,  sturgeon,  and  all  royal  fishes  in  the  seas,  bays, 
inlets  and  rivers  within  the  premises,  and  the  fish  therein  taken, 
together  with  the  royalty  of  the  sea  upon  the  coasts  within  the 
Umits  aforesaid,  and  all  miiies  royal  as  well  discovered  as  not 
discovered,  of  gold,  silver,  gems  and  precious  stones,  to  be  found 
or  discovered  within  the  territories,  limits  and  places  aforesaid  ; 
and  that  the  said  land  be  from  henceforth  reckoned  and  reputed 
as  one  of  our  plantations  or  colonies  in  America  called  RuperVs 
Land.  And  furthermore  we  do  grant  unto  the  said  governor 
and  company,  and  their  successors,  that  they  and  their  success- 
ors, and  their  factors,  servants,  and  agents  for  tht^m ,  an«l  on 
their  behalf,  and  not  otherwise,  shall  forever  heres  fter  ha"e, 
use  and  enjoy,  not  only  the  whole,  entire  and  only  trade  and 
traffic,  and  the  whole,  entire  and  only  liberty  use  an»  ■  privihjge, 
of  trading  and  trafficing  to  and  from  the  ti  jiti»ry,  limits,  '^m\ 
places  aforesaid,  but  also  the  whole  and  ent  a  nr,*' '  ?!  and  traljic 
to  and  from  all  havens,  bays,  creeks,  ri\  >,  lakes,  and  ftcas, 
into  which  they  shall  find  entrance  or  passage  by  water  or  land, 
out  of  the  territories,  limits  and  places  atonfesoil,  and  lo  and 
with  all  nations  and  people  iTihabiting  or  whicli  lall  inhabit 
within  the  territories,  limits  and  places  aforesa,ia,  and  to  and 
with  all  other  nations  inhabiting  any  of  the  coasts  adjacent  to 
the  said  territories,  limits  and  places,  which  are  not  already 
possessed  as  aforesaid,  or  whereof  the  sole  liberty  or  pnvilege  of 
trade  or  traffic  is  not  yet  granted  to  any  other  of  our  subjects  * 
'  Who  can  say  what  constituted  Rupert's  Land ;  or  where  it 
was  supposed  to  be  situated  ?  And  who  can  undertake  to  ex- 
plain or  give  a  true  construction  of  the  meaning  of  the  absurdly 
vague  and  indefinite  language  in  which  the  grant  in  quesiion  13 
supposed  to  be  made  ? 

"  if  this  grant  of  land  is  worth  any  thing  ai  all,  or  if  it  con- 


fir 


'       §■ 


9  '   Pi 
III  P 


i..* 


I'll  •■!;! 


11 '' 


I 


8r> 


HUDSON    BAY    COMPANY. 


veys  any  estate  whatever  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  it  must 
be  confined  to  those  islands  lying  within  the  entrance  of  the 
strait,  and  can  not  be  made  to  convey  any  other  portion. 

**  The  entrance  of  the  strait  is  from  the  Atlantic,  am^  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  strait  is  Labrador ;  its  coast  can  not 
be  said  to  be  within  the  entrance  of  the  strait,  nor  can  Huieon 
Bay,  distant  some  800  miles  from  that  entrance,  in  the  common 
acceptation  of  the  term,  be  said  to  be  within  the  entrance  of  the 
strait ;  much  less  can  the  lands  and  shores  of  Hudson  Bay  bs 
said  to  lie  within  the  entrance  of  the  strait. 

*'  If  ever  the  claims  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  are  brought 
before  a  judicial  tribunal  for  investigation,  the  interpretation 
which  shall  be  given  this  charter  (if  charter  it  is)  will  be  in  the 
strictest  and  most  limited  sense,  and  not  in  the  enlarged  and 
extended  one  which  that  Company  have  given  to  it. 

"  At  all  events,  *  within  the  strait^  must  mean  such  a  prox- 
imity to  the  strait  as  would  give  the  lands  spoken  of  an  affinity 
or  relation  to  Hudson  Strait,  and  not  such  lands  as  from  their 
immense  distance  have  no  such  geographical  affinity  or  relation 
to  that  strait.  In  this  case  the  nearest  point  to  Hudson  Bay 
is  700  miles,  nevertheless  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  set  up  a 
claim  to  1,6()0  miles  beyond  this  point— 2,200  miles  from  ivithin 
the  entrance  of  Hudson  Strait. 

"  The  immense  extent  of  country  claimed  is  not  warranted 
by  any  possible  construction  of  the  charter,  and  is  wholly  in- 
consisient  with  the  objects  of  a  trading  company,  who  evidently 
are  not  calculated  to  found  kingdoms  or  establish  states  and 
empires. 

"  Although  Henry  Hudson  is  supposed  to  be  the  discoverer 
of  Hudson  Bay,  for  he  sailed  into  the  strait  that  now  bears 
his  name  in  1610,  and  perished  there  that  year,  nevertheless 
France  laid  claim  to  all  that  territory  as  early  as  1598.  In 
that  year  letters  patent  were  granted  by  Henry  the  4th  of 
France  to  Sieur  de  la  Roche,  creating  him  Governor-General  of 
Canada,  Hochelaga,  Terres  Nueves,  Labrador,  and  the  river  of 
the  great  Bay  of  Norrembegue. 

'*  On  the  29th  April,  1627,  Louis  the  13th  granted  a  charter  to 
a  company  called  '  Le  Compagnie  de  la  Nouvelle  France,'  to 
which  company  was  also  granted  the  exclusive  trade  and  pos- 
session of  the  country  called  La  JVouveUe  France^  for  a  perio-l 
of  fifteen  years.  Now  the  boundaries  of '  La  Nouvelle  France,' 
as  described  at  that  time,  include  the  whole  of  Hudson  Strmt 
and  Hudson  Bay,  and  in  tu,ct  all  that  country  extending  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean  which  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  now  claim. 

"  By  the  treaty  of  Saint  Germain-en-Laye  in  March,  1632, 
Charles  the  1st  of  England  resigned  to  Louis  the  13tb  of  France 
the  sovereignty  of  Acadia,  La  A'ouveUe  France^  and  Canada. 


"  Some  tim« 
English  advei 
trading  estat 
erected  two  or 
us  one  of  usur 
scut  from  Ca] 
who  destroyec 
ova,  alleging  t 
dominions  of 
quently  ensue 
taken  by  the 
in  16J6.  By 
and  they  rem 
treaty  of  Utr 
ceded  to  Eng 
oontinued  in  J 

"Thus  it  i 
grant  to  the 
even  if  fliere 
Ryswick  acti 
country  to  F 
ceded  to  Eng 
England  clea 
tion  of  any  v( 


To  the  Editor  < 

Sir — In  a 
much  pleasu 
Company,  ai 
an  exclusive 

"  The  peri 
right  in  rel 
which  hei  v 
time  that 
authority  it 
sharehoUlcn 
trade  over  a 
the  east  to 
north  only 

*'  When  y 
turers  drav 
the  traffic 
we  are  indi 


HUDSON    BAY    COMPANY. 


m 


I  it  must 
:e  of  the 

antl  the 
can  not 
Hnicon 

common 

ice  of  the 

Bay  bs 

brought 

jpretation 

be  in  the 

'ged  and 

a  prox- 
n  affinity 
pom  their 
r  relation 
idson  Bay 
set  up  a 
)m  tvithin 

v^arranted 
wholly  in- 
evidently 
tates  and 

liscoverer 
low  bears 
p^ertheless 
1598.  In 
e  4th  of 
eneral  of 
5  river  of 

iharter  to 
[•ance,'  to 
and  pos- 
a  periO'l 
France,' 
on  Strait 
ig  to  the 
Lim. 

ch,  1632, 
if  Franoe 
'anada. 


"  Sorno  time  about  1663,  according  to  Charleyoix,  a  party  of 
English  adventurers,  guided  by  two  French  deserters,  built  a 
trading  establishment  on  Hudson  Bay,  and  subsequently 
erected  two  or  three  others.  This  act  was  regarded  by  France 
as  one  of  usurpation,  and  accordingly  in  1686  an  expedition  was 
sent  from  Canada  under  the  command  of  Chevalier  de  Troyes, 
who  destroyed  the  establishments  and  drove  away  the  possess- 
ors, alleging  that  the  country  thus  occupied  by  them  was  in  the 
duminions  of  the  king  of  France.  During  the  war  that  subse- 
quently ensued  between  France  and  England,  thyse  places  were 
taken  by  the  English,  and  retained  until  the  treaty  of  Uyswick 
in  1606.  By  that  treaty  they  were  again  restored  to  France, 
and  they  remained  in  her  possession  until  1714,  when  by  the 
treaty  of  Utrecht  the  whole  of  the  Hudson  Bay  countries  were 
ceded  to  England ;  since  which  period  the  whole  country  has 
continued  in  her  possession. 

''  Thus  it  is  clear  that  at  the  time  when  Charles  made  the 
grant  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  it  was  not  his  to  grant, 
even  if  fliere  had  been  no  doubt  as  to  his  power.  The  treaty  of 
Ryswick  actually  destroyed  the  charter,  by  surrendering  the 
country  to  France;  and  when  by  the  treaty  of  Utrecht  it  was 
ceded  to  England  in  1714,  that  country  came  to  the  crown  of 
England  clearty  freed  from  any  stipulations  as  to  the  reserva- 
tion of  any  vested  or  other  right  whatever. 


THE   HUDSON   BAT    COMPANY. 


To  the  Editor  of  tfvA  Tora/ito  Globe  : 

Sir — In  a  city  paper,  of  the  29th  ultimo,  I  have  read  with 
much  pleasure  some  observations  relative  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  and  the  charter  under  which  that  Company  assume  ' 
an  exclusive  control  over  half  a  continent. 

"  The  period  has  now  arrived  when.  Canada  should  assert  Ker 
right  in  relation  to  a  matter  of  so  important  a  nature,  and  in 
which  her  vital  interests  are  most  deeply  involved.  And  it  is 
time  that  her  mercantile  community  should  inquire  by  what 
authority  it  is  that  a  company,  consisting  of  some  two  hundred 
shareholders,  in  the  city  of  London,  claim  the  exclusive  right  to 
trade  over  a  country  extending  from  the  coast  of  Labrador  on 
the  east  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  and  bounded  on  the 
north  only  by  the  Arctic  seas .' 

"  When  we  know  that  this  community  of  commercial  adven- 
turers draw  their  wealth  and  influence  and  power  solely  from 
the  traffic  carried  on  within  this  immense  circuit  of  country, 
we  are  induced  to  ask,  how  does  it  happen  that  the  mercantile 


'^:  -tr 


\V 


"'  -M 


M 


88 


HUD3UN    BAV    COMPANY. 


if.. 


am 


m 


community  of  Canada,  living,  as  it  were,  within  the  very  sphere 
of  their  action,  are  dead  to  all  those  commercial  enterprises 
which,  for  nearly  a  century  past,  has  annually  poured  into  the 
coffers  of  this  monopoly  a  copious  shower  of  wealth  ? 

"  The  reply  probably  will  be,  *  It  is  not  that  our  merchants 
are  unenterprising  or  unpatriotic— but  as  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  possRSS  an  exclusive  right  to  trade  throughout  that 
country,  all  others  are  by  law  prohibited.' 

*'  While  I  admit  that  this  is  the  general  impression,  I  contend 
that  it  is  an  impression  designedly  created  and  artfully  main- 
t.iined  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  in  order  that  they  may 
more  be." v  rely  profit  by  the  monstrous  imposture. 

*'  There  was  a  time  when  a  company  of  Canadian  merchants 
successfully  disputed  the  assumed  claims  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company. 

"  That  which  then  was  accomplished  may  now  be  done  again. 

"  The  Northwest  Company  of  Montreal  pushed  their  enter- 
prises ^  J  an  extent  which  this  chartered  one  of  Charles  the 
Second  had  never  then  attempted.  And  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany carried  these  enterprises  into  effect  at  a  time  when  the 
means  of  transport  were  in  its  very  infancy.  The  bark  canoe 
was  the  only  conveyance  by  which  merchandise  was  conveyed 
from  Montreal,  or  by  which  the  rich  productions  of  even  in 
those  times  the  mighty  West  were  brought  in  return  to  that  city. 

"If  we  draw  a  comparison  between  the  manner  in  which 
that  trade  was  carried  on,  and  the  mode  in  which  it  could  now 
be  conducted,  while  we  can  not  but  admire  the  energy  and  the 
entei'prise  of  the  merchants  of  that  day,  wo  must  admit  that 
those  of  the  present  time  are  enabled  to  enjoy  advariagcs  which 
the  Northwest  Company  could  not  have  dreamed  of. 

"  Where  the  light  canoe  of  former  tim2s  could  scarcely  float, 
or  where  these  were  obliged  to  discharge  their  cargoes  and  em- 
bark them  at  the  extremity  of  some  portage,  ships  of  one  thou- 
sand tons  burden  now  float,  and  a  ship  navigation  is  now  opened 
from  Montreal  to  half  way  across  the  continent ;  instead  of  the 
canoe  timidly  hugging  the  shores  of  the  great  lakes,  the  steamer 
and  propeller  are  now  seen  mid-lake  pursuing  their  courses, 
undeterred  by  wind  or  wave. 

'*  The  course  of  trade,  as  conducted  in  those  days,  required 
two  }  ears'  time  to  complete  an  order  for  goods  sent  by  the  trader 
in  the  West.  The  usual  time  for  dispatching  such  orders  was 
in  the  autumn,  when  vhe  canoes  were  about  to  return  for  Mon- 
treal. Sometimes  these  orders  did  not  arrive  in  time  to  be  for- 
warded by  the  fall  ships  to  England,  in  which  case  they  had  to 
lay  over  for  the  spring  ships,  or  rather  summer.  When  the 
goods  arrived  in  the  spring  at  Mouneal,  they  were  then  em- 
barked in  canoes,  and  reached  Lake  Nippising  via  the  Ottawa 


River;  from 
French  Rive 
to  Lake  Sup< 
Kaministequ 
la  Pluie  anc 
along  the  Li 
Winnipeg,  ai 
by  it  to  Grci 
and  pcioss  t 
the  distance 
load  and  rel( 
Montreal  an 
this  traflic  l 
dition  to  the: 
in  the  servic 
of  2,000  or  B 
ada  who  wer 
ductions  of  t 
by  the  trade 
to  circulate 
which  a  trad 

**  Had  the 
is  no  doubt  I 
Superior  wou 
the  portals  Ic 
Pigeon  river 
lock  and  key 
of  their  traf 
population  a 
have  followe( 
up  along  the 
was  conduct* 
the  woods  th 
these  active 
lively  songs  ( 
ed ;  for  the  i 
directed  to  1 
Hudson  Bay 

"  Some  ide 
the  North wej 
tune  of  the 
profits  of  th 
ceeded  the  oi 
the  annual  ] 
ensuing  yeai 
contests  of  t 
resulted  in  a 


HUDSON    BAY    COMPANY. 


89 


y  sphere 

terprises 

into  the 

erchants 
son  Bay 
lOut  that 

[  contend 
lly  main- 
Dhey  may 

lerchants 
ison  Bay 

ne  again, 
jir  enter- 
larles  the 
rest  Com- 
when  the 
irk  canoe 
conveyed 
f  even  in 
that  city. 
in  which 
sould  now 
y  and  the 
dmit  that 
kgcs  which 

cely  float, 
IS  and  em- 
one  thou- 
ow  opened 
ead  of  the 
le  steamer 
r  courses, 

i.  i-equired 
the  trader 
orders  was 
Q  for  Mon- 
5  to  be  for- 
hey  had  to 
When  the 
I  then  em- 
the  Ottawa 


River ;  from  Lake  Nippising  they  reached  Lake  Huron  by  the 
French  River,  thence  along  Lake  Huron  to  the  Ste  Marie  Kivor 
to  Lake  Superior;  and  coasting  Lake  Superior  they  reached  the 
Kaministequoi«  up  the  Kaministequoi  to  Lac  la  Pluie,  down  Lac 
la  Pluie  and  the  La  Pluie  River  to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods, 
along  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  the  Winnipeg,  thence  to  Lake 
Winnipeg,  around  Lake  Winnipeg  to  the  Saskatchawan  River, 
by  it  to  Great  Slave  Lake,  thtmce  to  the  plains  of  Athabasca, 
and  PCI  OSS  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  making 
the  distance  thus  traveled  over  4,000  miles,  and  having  to  un- 
load and  reload  their  canoes  at  innumerable  portages  between 
Montreal  and  the  place  of  their  destination.  In  conducting 
this  traffic  500  French  voyageurs  were  employed,  and  in  ad- 
dition to  these  were  the  numerous  hunters  and  traders  engaged 
in  the  service  of  this  Company,  in  all,  perhaps,  to  the  number 
of  2,000  or  more.  And  these  men  were  all  inhalntants  of  Ca.»i- 
ada  who  were  thus  early  engaged  in  developing  tht;  rich  pro- 
ductior<<  of  their  country,  and  Canada  at  large  was  benefited 
by  the  trade,  for  the  wealth  it  brought  was  freely  flung  back 
to  circulate  through  those  various  industrial  pursuits  of  life 
which  a  trade  like  this  had  called  into  action. 

♦•  Had  the  Northwest  Company  continued  in  existence,  there 
is  no  doubt  but  the  country  along  the  great  Lakes  Huron  and 
Superior  would  not  now  be  the  *  terra  incognifa*  that  it  is ; 
the  portals  leading  to  the  West,  such  as  the  KamLiist(  quoi  and 
Pigeon  rivers,  would  not  have  been  closed,  as  it  were,  under 
lock  and  key,  but  the  voyageurs  making  these  the  thoroughfare 
of  their  traffic  would  have  speedily  opened  out  tlie  country  to 
population  and  production,  other  traders  or  mei'chants  would 
have  followed  in  their  wake,  and  settlements  would  have  sprung 
up  along  the  channel  down  which  this  vast  and  important  trade 
was  conducted,  by  Canadian  enterprise  alone.  The  waters  and 
the  woods  that  were  then  enlivened  by  the  stir  and  bustle  of 
these  active  and  enterprising  merchants,  and  cheered  by  the 
lively  songs  of  the  happy  voyageur,  are  now  silent  and  desert- 
ed ;  for  the  whole  of  the  trade  of  that  western  country  is  now 
directed  to  the  shores  of  Hudson  Bay,  there  to  be  stowed  in 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  ships  for  the  city  of  London. 

"  Some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  magnitude  of  the  trade  of 
the  Northwest  Company  by  these  facts.  In  four  years  from  the 
time  of  the  formation  of  that  Company,  the  net  return  of  the 
profits  of  that  year  was  £60,000,  a  sum  of  money  which  ex- 
ceeded the  original  capital  invested.  Li  three  years  afterward, 
the  annual  net  profits  had  amounted  to  <£  150 ,000;  and  each 
ensuing  year  these  profits  were  annually  increasing,  until  the 
contests  of  the  two  companies  led  to  open  warfare,  and  this 
resulted  in  a  union  of  interests. 

8» 


0\t 


HUDSON    BAT    Cu^Ia..  r. 


**  The  Hudson  Bay  Company,  however,  had  in  fact  been  (riyen 
from  all  commercial  rivalry,  and  it  was  only  when  they  /ound 
that  neither  fraud  nor  force  in  Canada,  nor  courtly  favor  nor 
parliamentary  influence  in  England,  could  succeed  in  driving 
the  Northwest  Company  from  their  pretended  teniture,  they 
offered  to  compromise  their  disputes,  and  proposed  to  share 
with  the  Northwest  Company  of  Montreal  their  imaginary 
privileges,  in  order  that  all  other  adventurers  to  that  country 
should  be  excluded  a  participation  in  the  spoils. 

'*  It  was  thus  that  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  bribed  the  rivals 
whom  they  could  not  defeat,  and  tb  7i  Northwest  Company  sub- 
scribed to  the  existence  of  claims  or  nghts  which  they  had 
heretofore  defied  and  disputed,  fortified  by  the  opinions  of  such 
men  as  Lord  Brougham,  Sir  Vickery  Gibbs,  Sir  Arthur  Pigot, 
Mr.  Sponkie,  Mr.  Braidoft,  and  others. 

**  Jmd  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  dared  to  test  the  validity  of 
their  charter  in  a  court  of  law,  it  would  have  been  proclaimed 
to  the  world  that  every  British  subject  had  a  right  to  trade 
and  traffic,  unfettered  and  uncontrolled,  throughout  that  coun- 
try, for  that  the  Royal  Charter  under  which  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  claimed  exclusive  privileges  there  was  illegal,  was 
null  and  void. 

*'  By  changing  the  route  of  transport  to  and  from  the  West, 
the  shorter  and  better  one,  ttia  the  Lakes,  became  unfrequented, 
and  its  very  existence  almost  forgotten,  and  the  now  limited 
companies  traded  without  the  apprehension  of  exciting  the 
rivalry  of  others. 

"  Their  trade  was  kept  a  secret — no  one  witnessed  the  pass* 
age  of  imports  upward,  nor  the  productions  downward  from 
hunting-grounds,  claimed  by  a  company  irresponsible  to  any 
law,  or  to  any  country.  So  secret  even  now  are  all  the  opera- 
tions of  that  Company,  that  the  furs  taken  within  ninety  miles 
of  Penetanguishene  are  transported  to  Lake  Superior,  thence 
to  Hudson  Bay  for  shipment  to  London. 

"  The  very  productions  of  our  own  country  are  sold  here  in 
Toronto,  after  having  been  purchased  at  the  Hudson  Bay  House 
in  liondon  by  our  merchants. 

**  The  very  employ 6b  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who  are 
engaged  in  the  Orkney  Islands  at  low  wages,  are  taken  to  Lake 
Superior  via  Hudson  Bay,  lest  these  men  should  learn  that  they 
could  engage  elsewhere  at  higher  wages,  which  they  would  do 
if  taken  to  Lake  Superior  via  the  St.  Lawrence  route.  Within 
these  few  years  past,  since  the  mining  interests  have  awakened 
attention  to  Lake  Superior,  these  men  frequently  leave  the  em- 
ployment of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  such  acts  are  de* 
nominated  by  the  Company's  agents  *  desertion,"  and  they  are 
often  arbitrarily  imprisoned. 


«♦  With  thij 
as  the  merits 
ers  to  take  tl 
section  of  Bi 
about  350,0(X 
denominated 
portion  will  \\ 
miles,  and  to 
which  for  yea 
and  blighting 

"Two  hui 
bond  or  tie  ol 
to  hold  four 
their  hunting 
one  million  f< 
rials  which 
wealth.  Bef 
capabilities  a 
try  for  agrici 
sess,  I  propoj 
of  the  Iludso] 


"  Hudson 
in  1610.  It 
breadth,  wit 
tween  the  p 
tent  is  about 
are  generall 
The  bay  is  i 
greater  par 
fields  of  ice. 
from  100°  t< 
prising;  th<= 
140°.  Tht 
which  is  ab 
with  an  intr 
principal  bj 
Bay,  on  th( 
Button's  Ba 
terfield  Inl( 
the  interior 
Ttrritories. 


HUDSON    BAY    COMPANY. 


01 


n  ('men 
sy  /oond 
ivor  nor 
driving 
ire,  they 
0  share 
aginary 
country 

he  rivals 
any  sub- 
hey  had 
of  such 
ir  Pigot, 

ilidity  of 
'oclaimed 
to  trade 
lat  coun- 
ison  Bay 
egal,  was 

the  West, 
equented, 
w  limited 
iting  the 

the  pass* 
ord  from 
le  to  any 
he  opera- 
lety  miles 
)r,  thence 

d  here  in 
tay  House 

,  who  are 
a  to  Lake 
that  they 
would  do 
Within 
iwakcned 
B  the  em- 
3  are  de- 
they  are 


"  With  this  ?ntroduction,  which  is  very  far  from  being  such 
as  the  merits  of  the  subject  require,  let  me  now  ask  your  read- 
ers to  take  the  map  of  North  America,  trace  the  lines  of  that 
section  of  British  North  America  styled  Canada,  containing 
about  350,0(X)  square  miles,  then  compare  it  with  that  which  is 
denominated  the  Territories  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  this 
portion  will  be  found  to  comprise  ahont  four  mi/lions  of  square 
miles,  and  to  this  roust  be  added  very  large  portions  of  Canada 
which  for  years  past  have  been  subjected  to  tne  despotic  control 
and  blighting  influences  of  this  monstrous  monopoly. 

"  Two  hundred  stockholders  in  London,  without  a  single 
bond  or  tie  of  any  nature  to  the  true  interests  of  Canada,  claim 
to  hold  four  millions  of  square  miles  in  British  America  as 
their  hunting-grounds.  Of  these  four  millions  of  square  miles, 
one  million  four  hundred  thousand  abound  in  all  those  mate- 
rials which  can  contribute  to  agricultural  and  to  natural 
wealth.  Before,  however,  entering  upon  the  subject  of  the 
capabilities  and  advantages  which  those  sections  )f  our  coun- 
try for  agricultural,  mechanical,  and  mercantile  parsuits  pos« 
sess,  I  propose  to  show  what,  in  fact,  is  this  supposed  charter 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  Huron." 


"  Hudson  Bay,  or  Sea,  was  discovered  by  Henry  Hudson 
in  1610.  It  is  about  900  miles  in  length,  by  000  at  its  greatest 
breadth,  with  a  surrounding  coast  of  3,000  miles.  It  lies  be- 
tween the  parallels  of  61°  and  05°  north  latitude,  and  in  ex- 
tent is  about  six  times  as  large  as  Lake  Superior.  The  coasts 
are  generally  high,  rocky,  rugged,  and  sometimes  precipitous. 
The  bay  is  navigable  for  a  few  months  in  summer,  but  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  remainder  of  the  year  is  filled  up  with 
fields  of  ice.  The  transitions  of  the  thermometer  in  summer  are 
from  100°  to  40**  in  two  days,  and  the  torrents  of  rain  are  sur- 
prising ;  the  range  of  the  thermometer  throughout  the  year  is 
140°.  Tht  sea  is  entered  by  Hudson  Strait,  on  the  northeast, 
which  is  about  500  miles  long,  with  a  varying  breadth,  and 
with  an  intricate  navigation  obstructed  by  several  islands.  The 
principal  bays  and  inletfi  in  this  great  inland  sea  are,  James' 
Bay,  on  the  southeast,  which  is  240  miles  long  by  140  wide ; 
Button's  Bay  and  Port  Nelson  on  the  western  coast,  and  Ches- 
terfield Inlet  on  the  northwest,  which,  after  stretching  far  into 
the  interior,  terminates  in  a  fresh-water  lake." — Hudson  Bay 
Territories,  by  R.  M.  Martin,  Esq. 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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^>^^ 

*>'% 


92 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


W 


m 


Ste  1j3nace  Island  is  a  large  and  bold  extent  of  land  lying 
on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  forming,  with  other  islands, 
the  outward  barrier  to  Neepigon  Bay.  Here  may  be  seen 
mountains  rising  from  1,000  to  1,300  feet  above  the  lake.  Cop- 
per and  other  minerals  abound  in  this  region. 

The  Slate  Islands,  lying  east  of  Ste  Ignace,  are  also  large 
bodies  of  land,  lying  some  10  or  12  miles  south  of  the  main 
shore,  which  is  bold  and  precipitous,  and  supposed  to  abound 
with  copper  ore  and  other  minerals. 

Pic  Island  and  River  lie  still  farther  east.  At  the  mouth 
of  the  river  is  situated  a  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 
This  is  a  large  stream,  affording  six  feet  of  water  over  the  bar 
at  its  mouth. 

MiCHipicoTEN  Island  is  a  large  and  bold  body  of  land;  in 
some  places  the  surface  rises  800  feet  above  the  waters  of  the 
lake.  The  shores  abound  with  greenstone  and  amygdaloid, 
while  in  the  interior  is  found  copper  and  silver  ores.  Here  was 
located  the  Lake  Superior  Silver  Mining  Company  of  Canada. 

MiCHipicoTEN  Harbor  and  River  is  another  favorable 
and  important  locality.  The  river  is  navigable  to  the  falls,  15 
miles.  It  rises  near  the  source  of  Moose  River,  which  empties 
into  James'  Bay. 

In  this  vicinity  are  found  iron  and  copper  ore  of  good  quality. 
At  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  situated  a  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company,  from  whence  the  Portage  road  extends  northward 
about  300  miles  to  James'  Bay,  on  the  south  end  of  Hudson 
Bay. 

This  road  has  "been  traveled  in  six  days  from  Lake  Superior 
to  Moose  Fort,  situated  on  James'  Bay,  although  the  usual  time 
is  from  eight  to  ten  days.  A  chain  of  forts  or  trading-houses 
is  passed  along  this  line,  situated  for  the  most  part  on  Moose 
River,  emptying  into  the  head  of  James'  Bay,  near  52°  N.  lat. 
The  time,  no  doubt,  will  soon  arrive,  when  the  Canadian  public 
will  claim  this  route  for  the  purpose  of  trade  and  commerce,  it 
forming  a  most  direct  communication  between  the  Arctic 
Ocean,  Hudson  Bay,  Lake  Superior,  and  the  lower  lakes. 


Two  Gram 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


9S 


nd  lying 
islands, 
be  seen 
Cop. 


e. 


Iso  large 
he  main 
abound 

le  mouth 
ompany. 
'  the  bar 

land;  in 
rs  of  the 
jrgdaloid, 
Here  was 
!)anada. 
favorable 
J  falls,  16 
ti  empties 

I  quality, 
dson  Bay 
orthward 
r  Hudson 

Superior 
3ual  time 
ig-houses 
)n  Moose 
1°  N.  lat. 
in  public 
merce,  it 
9  Arctic 
:es. 


Montreal  Island  and  River  is  ap.other  locality  south  of 
Michipicoten,  which  abounds  in  minerals  of  different  kinds. 

Caribou  is  a  small  island  lying  about  30  miles  south  of 
Michipicoten,  near  the  middle  of  the  lake.  It  is  usually  passed 
in  sight  when  the  steamers  return  along  the  north  shore  on 
pleasure  excursions 


In  order  to  give  an  idea  of  these  magnificent  excursions,  we 
copy  the  following  advertisement  which  appeared  in  a  Cleveland 
piper  in  August,  1856  : 

Two  Grand  Pleasure  Excursions  around  Lake  Superior. 

The  new,  staunch,  upper-cabin  and  low-pressure  steamer 
Planet,  Capt.  Joseph  Nicholson,  will  make  two  pleasure  excur- 
sions to  Lake  Superior,  as  follows : 

First.— Leave  Cleveland  on  Monday,  August  18th,  and  De- 
troit on  Tuesday,  August  19th.  Second. — Leave  Cleveland  on 
Thursday,  August  28th,  and  Detroit  on  Friday,  August  29th ; 
touching  at  MacVinac,  passing  through  the  Saut  Ste  Marie 
("annl,  and  also  pass  in  view  the  Pictured  Rocks  amd  Grand 
Island  by  daylight;  visit  Marquette  (the  iron  region),  Cop- 
per Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  Eagle  River,  Ontonagon  (the 
copper  region),  La  Pointe  (the  fairy  region) — thence  passing 
over  to  Pigeon  Bay,  Prince's  Bay,  Pie  Island,  and  Isle  Roy  ale, 
on  the  north  she  re,  and  returning  by  the  south  shore.  A  fine 
view  of  the  Michipicoten  and  Caribou  islands  is  also  obtained. 

The  Planet  is  new,  1,200  tons  burden,  low-pressure  engine 
of  1,000  horse-power;  has  an  upper  cabin  210  feet  long,  and 
splendid  accommodations  for  300  passengers,  but  on  these  trips, 
that  they  may  be  in  fact,  as  well  as  in  name.  Pleasure  Excur- 
sions, the  number  will  be  limited  to  lib. 

A  good  band  of  music  will  be  in  atteftdance  to  enliven  the 
scene,  and  no  expense  will  be  spared  to  make  theso  excursions 
the  most  agreeable  that  have  been  made  to  Lake  Si'pcrlor. 

The  price  of  tickets  for  the  excursion  round  will  be  Forty 
Dollars  from  Cleveland,  and  Thirty-six  Dollars  from  Detroit. 
Those  wishing  to  remain  over  one  trip  can  do  so,  an  I  return 
the  second  trip  of  the  Planet^  without  extra  charge. 

E.  B.  Ward,  Detroit. 


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94 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


NOETHEEJ^J   SHOEE  OF  LAKE   SUPEEIOE. 


Extract  from  Report  on  the  Geology  of  the  Lake  Siq)erior 
Country,  by  Foster  and  Whitney  : 

North er;v  Shore. — *'  Beginning  at  Pigeon  Bay,  the  bound- 
ary between  the  United  States  and  the  British  Possessions 
(north  latitude  48°),  we  find  the  eastern  portion  of  the  penin- 
sula abounds  with  bold,  rocky  cliflFs,  consisting  of  trap  and  red 
granite. 

"The  Falls  of  Pigeon  River,  eighty  or  ninety  feet  in  height, 
are  occasioned  by  a  trap  dyke  which  cuts  through  a  series  of 
slate  rocks  highly  indurated,  and  very  similar  !n  miner alogical 
characters  to  the  old  graywacke  group.  Trap  dykes  and  in- 
terlaminated  masses  of  traps  were  observed  in  the  slate  near 
the  falls. 

*'  The  base  of  nearly  all  the  ridges  and  clififs  between  Pigeon 
River  and  Fort  William  (situated  at  the  mouth  of  Kaministequoi 
River,  the  western  boundary  of  Upper  Canada)  is  made  up  of 
these  slates,  and  the  overlaying  trap.  Some  of  the  low  islands 
exhibit  only  the  gray  grits  and  slates.  Welcome  Islands,  in 
Thunder  Bay,  display  no  traps,  although,  in  the  distance,  they 
resemble  igneous  products,  the  joints  being  more  obvious  than 
the  planes  of  stratification,  thus  giving  a  rude  semi>columnar 
aspect  to  the  clififs. 

**  At  Prince's  Bay,  and  also  along  the  chain  of  islands  which 
lines  the  coast,  including  Spar,  Victoria,  and  Pie  islands,  the 
slates  with  the  crowning  traps  are  admirably  displayed.  At 
the  British  and  North  American  Company's  works  the  slates 
are  traversed  by  a  heavy  vein  of  calc-spar  and  amethystine 
quartz,  yielding  gray  sulphuret  and  pyritous  copper  and 
galena.  From  the  vein  where  it  cuts  the  overlaying  trap  on 
the  main  shore,  considerable  silver  has  been  extracted. 

"  At  Thunder  Cape,  the  slates  form  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque headlands  on  the  whole  coast  of  Lake  Superior.  They 
are  made  up  of  variously  colored  beds,  such  as  compose  the  up- 
per group  of  Mr.  Logan,  and  repose  in  a  n-^arly  horizontal  po- 
sition. These  detrital  rocks  attain  a  thickness  of  nearly  a 
thousand  feet,  and  are  crowned  with  a  sheet  of  trappean  rocks, 
three  hundred  feet  in  thickness. 

"  At  L'Anse  tk  la  Boufeille  (opposite  the  Slate  Islands,  on  the 
north  shore  of  Lake  Superior)  the  slates  re-appear,  with  the 
granite  protruding  through  them,  and  occupy  the  coast  for  fif- 
teen miles;  numerous  dykes  of  greenstone,  bearing  east  and 
west,  are  seen  cutting  the  rocks  vertically.  The  Slate  Islands 
form  a  part  of  this  group,  and  derive  their  name  from  their 
geological  structure 


LAKK    SUPKKIOR. 


95 


**  They  are  next  seen,  according  to  Mr.  Logan,  for  about 
seven  miles  on  each  side  of  the  Old  Pic  River.  Near  Otterhead 
a  gneissoidal  rock  forms  the  coast,  which  presents  a  remarkable 
regular  set  of  strata,  in  which  the  constituents  of  syenite  are 
arranged  in  thin  sheets  and  in  a  highly  crystalline  condition. 
From  this  point  to  the  Michipicoten  River  the  slates  and  gran- 
ite occupy  alternate  reaches,  along  the  coast,  for  ihe  distance 
of  fifty  miles.  *  With  the  exception  of  a  few  square  miles  of 
the  upper  trap  of  gargantua,  these  two  rocks  appear  to  bold 
the  coast  all  the  way  to  the  vicinity  of  Pointe  aux  Mine,  at  the 
extremity  of  which  they  separate  from  the  shore,  maintaining 
a  nearly  straight  southeasterly  line  across  the  Batchewanung 
Bay,  leaving  the  trap  of  Mamainse  between  them  and  the  lake. 
Thence  they  reach  the  northern  part  of  Goulais  Bay,  and 
finally  attain  the  promontory  of  Gros  Cap,  where  they  consti- 
tute a  moderately  bold  range  of  hills,  running  eastwardly 
toward  Lake  Huron.'  "* 


FISHERIES   OF   LAKE    SUPERIOR. 

Good  fishing-grounds  occur  all  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  affording  a  bountiful  supply  of  white  fish,  Mackinac 
trout,  and  many  other  species  of  the  finny  tribe.  On  the  south 
shore  there  are  fisheries  at  White  Fish  Point,  Grand  Island,  near 
the  Pictured  Rocks,  Keweenaw  Point,  La  Pointe,  and  Apostles' 
Islands,  and  at  different  stati'  -  on  Isle  Roy  ale,  where  large 
quantities  are  taken  and  exported;  but  there  are  do  reliable 
statistics  as  to  the  number  of  men  employed  or  the  number  of 
barrels  exported.  Between*  the  head  of  Keweenaw  Point  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Ontonagon  River,  considerable  quantities  of 
fish  are  taken,  for  which  there  i?  a  ready  market  at  the  mining 
stations.  In  addition  to  the  white  fish  and  Mackinac  trout,  the 
siskawit  is  occasionally  taken.  Its  favorite  resort,  however,  is 
the  de^  water  in  the  vicinity  of  Me  Royale. 

Lake  Superior  Trout-Fishing  in  Winter.— The  Lake 
Superior  Journal  ?ays : 

"  Angling  through  the  ice  to  a  depth  of  thirty  fathoms  of 


?*?■?' 


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*  Canadian  Report,  1846-7. 


96 


LAKE    SUPERIOR. 


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water  is  a  novel  mode  of  fishing  somewhat  peculiar  to  this 
peculiar  region  of  the  world.  It  is  carrying  the  war  into  fish- 
dom  with  a  vengeance,  and  is  denounced,  no  doubt,  in  the  cora- 
rnunities  on  the  bottom  of  these  northern  lakes  as  a  scaly  piece 
of  warfare.  The  large  and  splendid  salmon- trout  of  these 
waters  have  no  peace ;  in  the  summer  they  are  enticed  into  the 
deceitful  meshes  of  the  gill -net,  and  in  the  winter,  when  they 
hide  themselves  in  the  deep  caverns  of  the  lakes,  with  fifty 
fathoms  of  water  above  their  heads,  and  a  defense  of  ice  two 
or  three  feet  in  thickness  on  the  top  of  that,  they  are  tempted 
to  destruction  by  the  fatal  hook. 

"  Large  numbers  of  these  trout  arc  caught  every  winter  in 
this  way  on  Lake  Superior ;  the  Indian,  always  skilled  in  the 
fishing  business,  knows  exactly  where  to  find  them  and  how  to 
kill  them.  The  whites  make  excursions  out  on  the  lake  in 
pleasanv  weather  to  enjoy  this  sport.  There  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  both  fish  and  fishermen  near  Gros  Cap,  at  the  entrance  of 
Lake  Superior,  through  the  rocky  gateway  between  Gros  Cai> 
and  Point  Iroquois,  about  18  miles  above  the  Saut,  and  many  a 
large  trout,  at  this  point,  is  pulled  up  from  its  warm  bed  at  the 
bottom  of  the  lake,  in  winter,  and  made  to  bite  the  cold  ice  in 
this  upper  world.  To  see  one  of  these  fine  fish,  four  or  five  feet 
in  length,  and  weighing  half  as  much  as  a  man,  floundering  on 
the  snow  and  ice,  weltering  and  freezing  to  death  in  its  own 
blood,  oftentimes  moves  the  heart  of  the  fisherman  to  expres- 
sions of  pity. 

"  The  modus  operandi  in  this  kind  of  great  trout-fishing  is 
novel  in  the  extreme,  and  could  a  stranger  to  the  business  over- 
look at  a  distance  a  party  engaged  in  the  sport,  he  would  cer- 
tainly think  they  were  mad,  or  each  one  making  foot-races 
against  time.  A  hole  is  made  through  the  ice,  smooth  and 
round,  and  the  fisherman  drops  down  his  large  hook,  baited 
with  a  small  herring,  pork,  or  other  meat,  and  when  he  ascer- 
tains the  right  depth,  he  waits — with  fisherman's  luck— some 
time  for  a  bite,  which  in  this  case  is  a  pull  altogether,  for  the 
fisherman  throws  the  line  over  his  shoulder,  and  walks  from  the 
hole  at  the  top  of  his  speed  till  the  fish  bounds  out  on  the  ice. 
We  have  known  of  as  many  as  fifty  of  these  splendid  trout 
caught  in  this  way  by  a  single  fisherman  in  a  single  day ;  it  is 
thus  a  great  source  of  pleasure  and  a  valuable  resource  of  food, 
especially  in  Lent,  and  the  most  scrupulous  anti-pork  believers 
might  here  *  down  pork  and  up  fish*  without  any  offense  to  con- 


science. 


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CHICAGO. 


*     '■! 


The  City  of  Chicago  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  west 
Me  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Chicago  River,  in  N. 
lat.  41°  52',  and  W.  ""ong.  from  Greenwich  87^  35'.     It  is  ele- 
vated six  to  eight  feet  above  the  lake,  which  secures  it  from 
ordinp.i-y  floods,  and  extends  westward  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  about  two  miles  distant  from  its  entrance  into  Lake 
Michigan,  the  front  on  the  lake  being  three  or  four  miles  from 
north  to  south.     The  harbor  has  a  depth  of  from  twelve  to  four- 
teen feet  of  water,  which  makes  it  a  commodious  and  safe 
haven ;  and  it  has  been  much  improved  artificially  by  the  con- 
struction of  piers,  which  extend  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  of 
the  river  for  some  distance  into  the  lake,  to  prevent  the  accu- 
mulation of  sand  upon  the  bar.     The  light-house  is  on  the  south 
side  of  the  harbor,  and  shows  a  fi^ed  light  on  a  tower  forty  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  lake ;  there  is  also  a  beacon-light  on 
the  end  of  the  pier.    In  a  naval  and  military  point  of  view, 
this  is  one  of  the  most  important  ports  on  the  upper  lakes,  and 
should  be  strongly  defended,  it  being  the  "  Odessa"  of  these 
inland  seas. 

The  city  contains  a  court-house,  the  county  buildings,  Rush 
Medical  College,  a  commercial  college,  a  marine  hospital,  a 
United  States  land-office,  market  houses,  sixty  churches,  eight 
hanks,  several  fire  and  marine  insurance  companies,  and  a 
number  of  large  hotels ;  gas-works,  and  water- works.  The 
manufacturing  establishments  of  Chicago  are  numerous  and 
extensive,  consisting  of  iron-foundries  and  machine  shops,  rail- 
road car  manufactory,  steam  saw,  planing,  and  flouring  mills, 
manufactories  of  agricultural  implements,  etc.  Numerous 
steamers  and  propellers  ply  between  this  place  and  Saut  Ste 
Marie,  Lake  Superior  ports,  CoUingwood,  Detroit,  Buffalo,  and 
the  various  intermediate  ports.    Estimated  population  in  1856, 

100,000. 

9 


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CHICAGO. 


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TliG  ininou  and  Michigan  Canal ^  connecting  Lake  Michigan 
with  Illinois  River,  which  is  60  feet  wide  at  the  top,  6  feet  deep, 
and  107  miles  in  length,  including  five  miles  of  river  navigation, 
terminates  here,  through  which  brought  a  large  amount  of 
produce  from  the  south  and  southwest ;  and  the  numerous  rail- 
roads radiating  from  Chicago  add  to  the  vast  accumubition 
which  is  here  shipped  for  the  Atlantic  sea-board.  Chicngo 
being  within  a  short  distance  of  the  most  extensive  coal-fielils 
to  be  fuund  in  Illinois,  and  the  pineries  of  Michigan  and  Win- 
consiu,  as  well  as  surrounded  by  the  finest  grain  region  on  tli} 
face  of  the  globe,  makes  it  the  natural  outlet  for  the  varied  nnd 
rich  produce  of  an  immense  ?^ection  of  fertile  country. 

RAILUOADS  DIVERGING  FROM  CHICAGO. 

Miles. 

1 .  Chicago  and  Milwaukee 85 

2.  Chicago,  St.  Paul  and  Fond  du  Lac* i . ,    3(10 

3.  Fox  River  Valley  and  Wisconsin  Central* 75 

4.  Galena  and  Chicago  Union,  (to  Dunleith) 18» 

Beloit  Branch,  and  Beloit  and  Madison. 

6.  Chicago,  Fulton  and  Iowa  Air  Line 136 

6.  Chicago,  Burlington  and  Quincy 210 

7.  Chicago  and  Rock  Island 182 

8.  Chicago,  Alton  and  St.  Louis 290 

9.  Illinois  Central — Chicago  Branchf 805 

10.  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne  and  Chicago* 470 

11.  Cincinnati,  Peru  and  Chicago* 87 

12.  Michigan  Southern  and  Northern  Indiana 247 

13.  Michigan  Central  (and  New  Albany  and  Salem) 282 

Total. 2,997 


*  Unfinished  railroads. 

t  At  this  time  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  is  the  means  of  connecting 
Chicago  with  Cairo  and  St.  Louis  on  the  south,  and  with  Galena  and 
Dunleith  on  the  west,  forming  a  total  line  of  road  of  722  miles,  as  f9llow8: 

ILLINOIS  CENTEAL  EAILEOAD— AND  ITS  BBANC£1». 

Cairo  to  Laaalle— Main  I'.ue 808  miles. 

LasE  0  to  Dunleith— Galena  Branch , 147     " 

Chicugo  to  Centralia— Chicago  Branch 267    " 

Total 722  miles. 


PKOGl 


Total  numl 

Illinois  n 

Increase  in 

Increase  in 

per  year 

Total  earni 

cage  for 

Increase  of 

Population 


Total  rece 

bushels 

Total  rec( 

grain  j 

crease  i 

Total  shi] 

for  the 

Total  am< 

Total  am' 

Total  nu 

inChi( 

Total  nu 

Averagii 

price 

receive 

Number 


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09 


ke  Michigan 
6  feet  (Jeep, 
navigation, 
e  amount  of 
merous  rail- 
ccuDiul'ition 
Chicfigo 
^e  coal-fieMs 
an  and  Wis. 
egion  on  tli3 
varied  jind 

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Ho 

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210 
182 

m 

805 

470 

87 

247 

282 


2,997 


f  connecting 
Galena  and 
>  a8f9llow8: 


.  808  miles. 

.  147     " 

.  267     " 

.  722  miles. 


riCOGRESS  OF  CHICAGO  AND  THE   GREAT  WEST. 

"  TwKNTY  years  ago  the  city  of  Chicago,  Illinois,  was  an  in- 
gignificant  town  at  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Michigan ;  now, 
her  granaries,  her  storehouses,  her  railroad  depots,  and  her 
private  dwellings  are  scarcely  surpassed  by  thosa  of  any  city 
in  the  Union  for  their  solidity,  enormous  dimensions,  and  their 
unexampled  cost,  giving  evidence  of  rapid  wealth,  caused  by 
her  lake  commerce  and  her  railroad  concentrations. 

"  The  *  Democratic  Press*  of  that  city  has  just  made  uj  its 
annual  statistical  statement  of  the  progress  of  Chicago,  and  from 
it  we  copy  the  annexed  siatistics,  which  the  editor  says  may  be 
relied  on.  It  is  headed  *  Fifth  annual  review  of  the  pro^^peots, 
condition,  traffic,  etc.,  of  the  railroads  centering  in  Chicago, 
with  a  general  summary  of  the  business  of  the  city  for  18'>*3.' 

GENERAL   HVTj,i,jARY. 

Total  number  of  miles  of  railway  in  the  State  of 

Illinois  now  in  operation 2,761 

Increase  in  1856. . .- 351 

Increase  in  the  State  in  five  years  (over  600  miles 

per  year) 2,666 

Total  earnings  of  all  the  railways  centering  in  Chi- 
cago for  the  year  1856 $17,343,242 

Increase  of  185(5  over  1855 $4,045,041 

Population  of  Chicago  in  1850 29,963 

in  1862 38,783 

in  1854 74,500 

"  in  1865 82,750 

"  January  1,  1857  (estimated)        110,000 

Total  receipts  of  grain  in  Chicago  for  the  year  1855, 

bushels 20,487,953 

Total  receip  ;s  of  grain,  being  the  largest  primary 
grain  port  in  the  world,  for  the  year  1856  (in- 
crease in  1856  over  20  per  cent.),  bushels 24,674,824 

Total  shipments  of  grain  from  the  port  of  Chicago 

for  the  year  1856,  bushels 21,583,221 

Total  amount  of  corn  received  in  1856,  bushels. . . .  11,888.398 
Total  amount  of  wheat  received  in  1856,  bushels  . .  9,392,365 
Total  number  of  hogs,  alive  and  dressed,  received 

in  Chicago  for  1855-56 308,539 

Total  number  of  shipments,  alive  and  dressed. ....         170,831 
Averaging  the  weight  at  only  200  pounds,  and  the 
price  at  $5  per  hundred,  the  value  of  the  hogs 

received  would  be $3,585,880 

Number  of  barrels  of  beef  packed  in  1856 33,038 


% 


P 

'  i'ifi 


11^^^ 


100 


CHICAGO. 


Receipts  of  Inmber  at  the  port  of  Chicago  for  the 
year  IHiV),  being  the  largest  lumber  market  in 
the  world,  feet 450,678,109 

Receipts  of  lead  for  the  year  I806,  pounds 9,527,600 

Now  laid  up  in  the  port  of  Chicago,  steamers  and 

sail  vessels 245 

Total  number  of  vessels  arriving  in  Chicago  for  the 
year  185(> ! . . . .  7,328 

Total  tonnage  of  vessels  arriving  in  tliis  port  for  the 
year  1850 1,545,379 

Amount  of  imposts  received  at  the  Chicago  custom- 
house on  foreign  goods  for  the  past  year $102,994 

Total  amount  01  capital  invested  in  manufactures 
during  the  year  1856,  showing  an  increase  of 
$1,464,400  over  1855 $7,759,40C 

Total  number  of  hands  employed,  showing  an  in- 
crease over  1855  of  1,838 10,573 

Total  value  of  manufactured  articles,  showing  an 
increase  of  $4,483,572 $15,515,002 

Total  amount  invested  during  the  year  1856  in  im- 
provements, stores,  dwellings,  hotels,  etc.,  show- 
ing an  increase  over  1855  of  $1,973,370 $5,708,024 

Total  number  of  passengers  carried  west  by  four 

principal  railways  leading  out  of  Chicago 039,006 

Total  number  remaining  west  above  those  who  ro- 

•    turned  on  these  four  lines 107,653 

Total  number  of  passengery  moved  on  all  the  roads 

centering  in  Chicago 3,850,000 

"  The  editor  remarks,  in  conclusion :  *  The  total  movement 
on  the  principal  railway  lines  centering  at  Chicago  would  be 
about  3,350,000  passengers. 

"  The  above  facta  and  figures  will  be  regarded  with  special 
satisfaction  by  all  our  citizens,  and  by  the  people  of  the  North- 
west generally.  They  show  a  healthy,  but  rapid  and  most 
astonishing  progress.  It  may  be  doubted  whether  the  whole 
history  of  the  civilized  world  can  furnish  a  parallel  to  the  vig- 
orous growth  and  rapid  development  of  the  country  which  has 
Chicago  for  its  commercial  metropolis.  When  it  is  remembered 
that  twenty  years  ago  she  was  not  an  incorporated  city,  and 
loss  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  since  the  Indians  still  had 
possession  of  the  largest  portion  of  this  magnificent  country, 
these  facts,  stubborn  and  incontestable  though  they  be,  seem 
more  like  the  dreams  of  some  vagrant  imagination  than  sober 
matters  of  reality,  which  scores  of  men  still  among  us  have 
themselves  seen  and  realized.'* 


P0RT3  OF 

Michigan 

Lake  Miohig 

228  miles  fi 

071  d  Salem 

place,  conne 

eral  plank  ] 

cros.sing  the 

several  larg( 

intended  for 

duce;  15  or 

a  branch  of 

1831,  with  1 

porium  of  ti 

ilie  rapid  ii 

have  not  b< 

itants,  and 

New  Bui 

boat  route, 

road,  218  m 

house  and  j 

and  lake  ci 

inhabitants 

rounded  bj 

east  and  soi 

St.  JosEi 

on  the  east 

River,  194 : 

ing  about 

inhabitant! 

active  trad 

place,  most 

70  miles  b 


PORTS    OF    LAKE    MICHIGAN. 


101 


PORTS  OF   LAKE   MICIIIOAL    LYING    ON    THE   EAST   AND 

SOUTH  8IIOISE8. 

Michigan  City,  Ind.,  situated  at  the  extreme  south  end  of 
Lake  Michigan,  is  distant  45  miles  from  Chicago  by  water,  and 
2-8  miles  from  Detroit  by  railroad  route.  The  J\''ew  Albany 
and  Salem  Railroad^  228  miles  in  length,  torminatoa  at  this 
place,  connecting  with  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad.  Sev- 
eral plank  roads  also  terminate  here,  affording  facilities  for 
crossing  the  extensive  prairies  lying  in  the  rear.  Here  are 
several  large  storehouses  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Trail  Creek, 
intended  for  the  storage  and  shipment  of  wheat  and  other  pro- 
duce; 15  or  20  stores  of  different  kinds,  several  hotels,  and 
a  branch  of  the  State  Bank  of  Indiana.  It  was  first  settled  in 
1831,  with  the  expectation  that  it  would  become  a  great  em- 
porium of  trade ;  but  owing  to  the  want  '^f  a  good  harbor,  and 
the  rapid  increase  of  Chicago,  the  expectation  of  its  founders 
have  not  been  realized.  It  now  contains  about  3,000  inhab- 
itants, and  is  steadily  increasing  in  wealth  and  numbers. 

New  Buffalo,  Mioh.,  lying  50  miles  east  Chicago  by  steam- 
boat route,  is  situated  on  the  line  of  the  Michigan  Central  Rail- 
road, 218  miles  west  of  Detroit.  Here  has  been  erected  a  light- 
house and  pier,  the  latter  affording  a  good  landing  for  steamers 
and  lake  craft.  The  settlement  contains  two  or  three  hundred 
inhabitants,  and  several  stores  and  storehouses.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  light,  sandy  soil,  which  abounds  all  along  the 
east  and  south  shores  of  Lake  Michigan. 

St.  Joseph,  Berrien  Co.,  Mich.,  is  advantageously  situated 
on  the  east  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Joseph 
River,  194  miles  west  of  Detroit.  Here  is  a  good  harbor,  afford- 
ing about  10  feet  of  water.  The  village  contains  about  1,000 
inhabitants,  and  a  number  of  stores  and  storehouses.  An 
active  trade  in  lumber,  grain,  and  fruit  is  carried  on  at  this 
place,  mostly  with  the  Chicago  market,  it  being  distant  about 
70  miles  by  water.    Steamers  of  a  small  class  run  from  St. 

9* 


,'r*i 


U 


■■\l 


i-M 


:fj 


I' 


ft;* 


di»i 
I' 


102 


PORTS    OF    LAKE    MICHIGAN, 


Joseph  to  Nilcs  and  Constantino,  a  distance  of  120  miles,  to 
ivliich  place  the  St.  Joseph  River  is  navigable.  Stages  also  run 
to  Niles  and  Dowagiac,  connecting  with  trains  on  the  Michigan 
Central  Railroad. 

St.  Joseph  River  rises  in  the  southern  portion  of  Michigan 
and  Northern  Indiana,  and  is  about  250  miles  long.  Its  general 
course  is  nearly  westward  ;  is  very  serpentine,  with  an  equable 
current,  and  flowing  through  a  fertile  section  of  country.  There 
are  to  bo  found  several  flourishing  villages  on  its  banks.  The 
principal  are  Constantino,  Elkhart,  South  Bend,  Niles,  and 
Berrien. 

NiLKs,  situated  on  St.  Joseph  River,  is  2G  miles  above  its 
mouth  by  land,  and  191  miles  from  Detroit  by  railroad  route. 
This  is  a  flourishing  village,  containing  about  3,000  inhab- 
itants, five  churches,  three  hotels,  several  large  stores  and  flour- 
ing mills ;  the  country  around  producing  large  quantities  of 
wheat  and  other  kinds  of  grain.  A  small  class  of  steamers  run 
to  St.  Joseph  below  and  other  places  above,  on  the  river,  afford- 
ing great  facilities  to  trade  in  this  section  of  country. 

The  Ports  extending  from  Grand  Haven  to  Saginaw  Bay  are 
fully  described  in  another  portion  of  this  work,  as  well  as  the 
bays  and  rivers  falling  into  Lakes  Michigan  and  Huron. 


20  miles,  to 
fes  also  run 
10  Michigan 

[f  Michigan 

Its  general 

an  equable 

ttry.    TJiere 

knks.    The 

Niles,  and 

3  above  its 
road  route. 
000  inhab- 
s  and  flour- 
lantities  of 
earners  run 
iver,  afford- 

Eiw  Bay  are 
well  as  the 
iron. 


TIIIP  FIIOM  CHICAGO  TO  MACKINAC  AND  SAUT  STR 

MARIE. 


On  starting  from  the  steamboat  wharf  near  the  mouth  of  the 
rhicap^o  Hiver,  the  Marine  Hospital  and  depot  of  the  Illino'fi 
(entrnl  Railroad  arc  passed  on  the  right,  while  the  Lake  Hous? 
and  lumber-yards  are  seen  on  the  left  or  north  side  of  the 
sfream.  The  government  piers,  long  wooden  structures,  afford 
a  good  entrance  to  the  harbor;  a  light-house  has  been  con- 
structed on  the  outer  end  of  the  north  pier,  to  guide  vessels  to 
the  port. 

The  basin  completed  by  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  to  facili- 
tate commerce  is  a  substantial  work,  extending  southward  for 
near  half  a  mile.  It  affords  ample  accommodation  for  loading 
and  unloading  vessels,  and  transferring  the  freight  to  and  from 
the  railroad  cars. 

The  number  of  steamers,  propellers,  and  sailing  vessels 
annually  arriving  and  departing  from  the  harbor  of  Chicago 
is  very  great ;  the  carrying  trade  being  destined  to  increase  in 
proportionate  ratio  with  the  population  and  wealth  pouring 
into  this  favored  section  of  the  Union. 

On  reaching  the  green  waters  of  Lake  Michigan,  the  city  of 
Chicago  is  seen  stretching  along  the  shore  for  four  or  five  miles, 
presenting  a  fine  appearance  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer. 
Tlie  entrance  to  the  harbor  at  the  bar  is  about  200  feet  wide. 
The  bar  has  from  ten  to  twelve  feet  water,  the  lake  being  sub- 
ject to  about  two  feet  rise  and  fall.  The  steamers  bound  for 
Milwaukee  and  the  northern  ports  usually  run  along  the  west 
shore  of  the  lake  within  sight  of  land,  the  banks  rising  from 
thirty  to  fifty  feet  above  the  water.* 


*  The  thermometer  stood  at  70°  Fahrenheit,  Sept.  26,  1854,  the  day 
being  thick  and  foggy,  with  little  or  no  wind. 


S^t.,.E 


III! 


I  i 


lif«1     "^ 


ill'-   . 


104       CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT    8TE    MARIE. 

Lake  Michigan  is  about  seventy  miles  average  width,  and 
340  miles  in  extent  from  Michigan  City,  Ind.,  on  the  south,  to  the 
Strait  of  Mackinac  on  the  north ;  it  presents  a  great  expanse 
of  water,  now  traversed  by  steamers  and  other  vessels  of  a  large 
class  running  to  the  Saut  Ste  Marie  and  Lake  Superior;  to 
CoUingwood,  Can. ;  to  Detroit,  Mich, ;  to  Cleveland  Ohio ;  and 
to  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  From  Chicago  to  Buffalo  the  distance  is 
about  1,000  miles  by  water;  while  from  Chicago  to  Superior 
City,  at  the  head  ef  Lake  Superior,  or  Fond  du  I-ac,  the  dis- 
tance is  about  the  same,  thus  affording  two  excursions  of  1 ,000 
miles  eaoh  over  four  of  the  great  lakes  or  inland  seas  of  America, 
in  steamers  of  from  1,000  to  2,000  tons  burden.  During  the 
summer  and  early  autumn  months  the  waters  of  this  lake  arc 
comparatively  calm,  affording  safe  navigation.  But  late  in  the 
year,  and  during  the  winter  and  early  spring  months,  the 
navigation  of  this  and  the  other  great  lakes  is  very  dan- 
gerous. 

WAUKEGANy  Lake  Co.,  111.,  36  miles  north  of  Chicago,  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  elevated  ground,  gradually  rising  to  50  or  60 
feet  above  the  water.  Here  are  v  wo  piers,  a  light-house,  several 
large  storehouses,  and  a  neat  and  thriving  town  containing  about 
6,000  inhabitants,  six  churches,  a  bank,  several  well-kept  hotels, 
thirty  stores,  and  two  steam-flouring  mills. 

Kenos^.a,  Wis.,  62  miles  from  Chicago,  is  elevated  30  or  40 
feet  above  the  lake.  Here  is  a  small  harbor,  a  light-house, 
storehouses,  mills,  etc.  The  town  has  a  populate,  n  of  about 
6,000  inhabitants,  surrounded  by  a  fine  back  country.  Here  is 
a  good  hotel,  ^  bank,  several  churches,  and  a  number  of  stores 
and  manufacturing  establishments  doing  a  large  amount  of 
business.  The  Kenaha  and  Beloit  Railroad^  when  finished, 
win  connect  at  the  latter  place  with  a  railroad  running  to  Madi- 
son, and  thence  to  the  Mississippi  River. 

The  City  of  Racine,  Wis.,  62  miles  from  Chicago  and  25 
miles  south  of  Milwaukee,  is  built  on  an  elevation  some  forty 
or  fifty  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  handsome 
and  flourishing  place.    Here  is  a  light-house,  piers,  storehouses, 


'E    MARIE. 


CHICAGO    TO    MACKrNAC    AND    8AUT    STE    MARIK.      105 


etc.,  situated  near  the  water,  ■while  the  city  contains  some  fin^ 
public  buildings  and  private  residences.  The  population  is 
about  9,000,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Racine  is  the  second 
city  in  the  State  in  commerce  and  population,  and  possesses  a 
fine  harbor.  Here  are  located  the  county  buildings,  fourteen 
churches,  several  hotels,  and  numerous  stores  of  different  kinds. 

The  Racine  and  Mississippi  Railroad  Ktending  from  this 
place  to  Beloit,  68  miles,  will  be  continued  to  the  Mississippi 
River  at  Savanna.  The  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  Railroad  also 
runs  through  the  town. 

The  City  of  Milvtaukee,  Wis.,  86  miles  from  Chicago,  by 
railroad  and  steamboat  rente,  is  handsomely  situated  on  rising 
ground  on  both  sides  of  the  Milwaukee  Rfver,  at  its  entrance  into 
Lake  Michigan.  In  front  of  the  city  is  a  bay  or  indentation 
of  the  lake,  affording  a  good  harbor,  except  in  strong  easterly 
gales.  The  harbor  is  now  being  improved,  and  will  doubtless 
be  rendered  secure  at  all  times  of  the  season.  The  river  affords 
an  extensive  water-power,  capable  of  giving  motion  to  ma- 
chinery of  almost  any  required  amount.  The  city  is  built  upon 
beautiful  slopes,  descending  toward  the  river  and  lake.  It  has 
a  court-house,  city  hall,  a  United  States  land-office,  the  Uni- 
versity Institute,  a  college  for  females,  three  academies,  three 
oi-phan  asylums,  thirty  churches,  several  well-kept  hotels,  ex- 
tensive ranges  of  stores,  and  several  large  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. The  city  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  well  supplied  with 
good  water.  Its  exports  of  lumber,  agricultural  produce,  etc., 
are  immense,  giving  profitable  employment  to  a  large  number 
of  steamers  and  other  lake  craft,  running  to  different  ports  on 
the  upper  lakes,  Detroit,  Buffalo,  etc.  The  growth  of  this  city 
has  been  astonishing ;  twenty  years  since  its  site  was  a  wilder- 
ness ;  now  it  contains  over  30,000  inhabitants,  and  of  a  class  in- 
ferior to  no  section  of  the  Union  for  intelligence,  sobriety,  and 
industry. 

The  future  of  Milwaukee  it  is  hard  to  predict ;  here  are  cen- 
tering numerous  railroads  finished  and  in  course  of  construc- 
tion, extending  south  to  Chicago,  west  to  the  Mississippi  River, 


V 


!  '    %  » *i 


^    J'l 


106       CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT    STE    MARIE. 


CHICAOC 


».«;■ 


i  ! 


and  north  to  Lake  Superior,  which  in  connection  ^th  the  De- 
troit and  Milwaukee  Railroad,  terminating  at  Grand  Haven, 
80  miles  distant  by  water,  and  the  lines  of  steamers  running  to 
this  port,  will  altogether  give  an  impetus  to  this  favored  city, 
blessed  with  a  good  climate  and  soil,  which  the  future  alone 
can  reveal. 

During  the  past  year  an  unusual  number  of  fine  buildings 
have  been  erected,  and  the  commerce  of  the  port  has  amounted 
to  $60,000,000.  The  bay  of  Milwaukee  offers  the  best  advant- 
ages for  the  construction  of  a  harbor  of  refuge  of  any  point  on 
Lake  Michigan.  The  city  has  expended  over  $100,000  in  the 
oonstruction  of  a  harbor ;  this  needs  extension  and  completion, 
which  will  no  doubt  be  eflFected. 

Port  Washington,  Ozaukee  Co.,  Wis.,  25  miles  north  of 
Milwaukee,  is  a  flourishing  place,  and  capital  of  the  county. 
The  village  contains  besides  the  public  build ings.  several 
churches  and  hotels,  twelve  stores,  three  mills,  an  iron  foundry, 
two  breweries  and  other  manufactories.  The  population  is  about 
2,500.  Here  is  a  good  steamboat  landing,  from  which  large 
quantities  of  produce  are  annually  shipped  to  Chicago  and  other 
lake  ports. 

The  unfortunate  steamer  Niagara,  while  on  her  passage  from 
Collingwood  to  Chicago,  was  destroyed  by  fire  oflf  Port  Wash- 
ington in  September,  1856,  whereby  sixty  lives  were  lost 

Sheboygan,  Wis.,  50  miles  north  of  Milwaukee  and  130 
miles  from  Chicago,  is  a  thrivinjij  place,  containing  about  5,000 
inhabitants.  Here  are  seven  churches,  several  public  houses  and 
stores,  together  with  a  light-house  and  piers ;  the  harbor  being 
improved  by  government  works.  Large  quantities  of  lumber 
and  agricultural  products  are  shipped  from  this  port.  The 
country  in  the  interior  is  fast  settling  with  agriculturists,  the 
soil  and  climate  being  good.*  A  railroad  is  about  being  con- 
structed from  this  place  to  Fond  du  Lac,  42  miles  west,  lying 


♦  September  27, 1854,  the  thermometer  stood  at  60°  Fahr.,  with  a  light 
wind  Arom  the  north. 


at  the  heac 
extend  to  M 

west. 
Manitou 

miles  east  f 

contains  ab< 

houses,  two 

saw-mills,  t 

titles  of  lun 

bor  is  being 

stormy  wea 

The  west 

80  feet,  pr 

sundry  blu 

country,  ab 

kinds. 

"  Manito 
Michigan  i 
rives  additi 
it  will  affor 
bound  fron 
southern  p 

Two  Riv 

new  and  tb 

(from  whi( 

Two  piers  i 

a  8hip-yar< 

about  2,0( 

back  to  Gi 

and  shipp 

large  quai 

Kewab 

miles  froi 

situated  e 

Bay  is  sit 

From  Ik 

the  couni 


'   MARIK. 

mth  the  De- 
'and  Haven, 
s  running  to 
favored  city, 
uture  alone 

le  buildings 
IS  amounted 
est  advant- 
ny  point  on 
,000  in  the 
completion, 

JS  north  of 
the  county. 
igS;  several 
on  foundry, 
ion  is  about 
vhich  large 
o  and  other 

issage  from 
Port  Wash- 

lost 

ie  and  180 
ibout  5,000 
houses  and 
rhoT  being 

of  lumber 
)ort.  The 
lUrists,  the 
being  con- 
rest,  lying 

with  a  light 


CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND   SAUT   STB   MARIE.       107 

at  the  head  of  Lake  Winnebago;  also,  another  railroad  to 
extend  to  Milwaukee  on  the  south  and  Green  Bay  on  the  north- 
west. 

Manitouwoc,  Wis.,  70  miles  north  of  Milwaukee  and  33 
miles  eaflt  from  Green  Bay,  is  an  important  shipping  port.  It 
contains  about  ^i,500  inhabitants ;  five  churches,  several  public 
houses,  twelve  stores,  besides  several  storehouses ;  three  steam 
saw-mills,  two  ship-yards,  light-house,  and  pier.  Large  quan- 
tities of  lumber  are  annually  shipped  from  this  port.  The  har- 
bor is  being  improved  so  as  to  afford  a  refuge  for  vessels  during 
stormy  weather. 

The  west  bank  of  Lake  Michigan  is  here  elevated  about  60  or 

80  feet,  presenting  a  rough  appearance  in  many  places,  with 

sundry  bluffs  rising  from  the  water's  edge  U)  the  level  of  the 

country,  above  which  it  is  clothed  with  heavy  timber  of  different 

kinds. 

"  Manitouwoc  is  the  most  northern  of  the  harbors  of  Lake 
Michigan  improved  by  the  United  States  government.  It  de- 
rives additional  importance  from  the  fact  that,  when  completed, 
it  will  afford  the  first  point  of  refuge  from  storms  for  shipping 
bound  from  any  of  the  other  great  lakes  to  this  or  to  the  most 
southern  ports  of  Lake  Michigan." 

Two  Rivers,  Wis.,  eight  miles  north  from  Manitouwoc,  is  a 
new  and  thriving  place  at  the  entrance  of  the  conjoined  streams 
(from  which  the  place  takes  its  name)  into  Lake  Michigan. 
Two  piers  are  here  erected,  one  on  each  side  of  the  river ;  also 
a  ship-yard  and  three  steam  saw-mills.  The  village  contains 
about  2,000  inhabitants.  This  section  of  country,  extending 
back  to  Green  Bay,  abounds  in  good  timber,  which  is  prepared 
and  shipped  to  Chicago  and  other  ports.  Fish  are  taken  in 
large  quantities,  and  sent  to  different  markets. 

Kewaunee,  Wis.,  26  miles  north  of  Two  Rivers  and  102 
miles  from  Milwaukee,  is  a  small  shipping  town,  where  are 
situated  several  saw-mills  and  lumber  establishments.  Green 
Bay  is  situated  about  25  miles  due  west  from  this  place. 

From  Manitouwoc  and  Two  Rivers,  in  a  northerly  direction, 
the  country  is  still,  for  the  most  part,  a  wild  wilderness,  in- 


If 
^1 


i  ■ 


f  i 


ft*  iKi 


-gi  y 


108       CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND   8AUT    8TE    MARIE. 

habited  sparsely  by  Indians  of  different  tribes.     The  following 
is  an  extract  from  the  Manitouwoc  Tribune  of  March,  1857  : 

ROMANCE  OF  THE  FOREST. 

'•  Some  months  since  we  gave  the  particulars  of  a  horrible 
occmrrence  which  happened  in  our  immediate  neighborhood, 
rivaling  in  interest  the  thrilling  story  of  the  eagle's  victim,  on 
the  mountain  of  Switzerland  No  traces  of  the  child  which  the 
bear  carried  off  in  such  a  daring  manner  have  as  yet  been 
found ;  but  the  excitement  which  such  an  incident  awakens  is 
gradually  dying  away,  and  is  now  replaced  by  that  of  one  of 
more  recent  date,  scarcely  less  thrilling  in  its  detail. 

'*  Last  week  a  Mr  Woodward,  living  near  Sandy  Bay,  had 
some  difficulty  with  an  Indian.  The  next  day  his  little  girl, 
three  years  of  age,  wps  standing  near  the  house,  when  an  In- 
dian sprang  out  of  the  thickets,  and  clasped  her  in  his  arms, 
and  bounded  away  through  the  underbrush.  Pursuit  was  com- 
menced immediately,  but  up  to  Saturday  without  success,  though 
information  had  been  received  which,  it  was  hoped,  would  lead 
to  the  recovery  of  the  child— an  Indian  and  a  squaw  having 
been  seen  the  day  after  t'e  abduction  carrying  a  child  which 
was  closely  wrapped  in  a  blanket,  and  was  crying  bitterly." 

On  leaving  Two  Rivers,  the  steamers  usually  run  for  the 
Manitou  Islands,  Mich.,  a  distance  of  about  100  mi  eSc  Soon 
after  the  last  vestige  of  land  sinks  below  the  horizon  on  the 
west  shore,  the  vision  catches  the  dim  outline  of  coast  on  the 
east  or  Michigan  shore  at  Point  aux  Betsie,  which  is  about  GO 
miles  south  of  the  Great  Manitou  Island.  From  this  point, 
passing  northward  by  Sleeping  Bear  Point,  a  singular  shaped 
headland  looms  up  to  the  view.  It  is  said  to  resemble  a  sleep- 
ing bear.  The  east  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  presents  a  suc- 
cession of  high  Band-banks  for  many  miles,  while  inland  are 
numerous  small  bays  and  lakes. 

Little,  or  South  Manitou  Island,  250  miles  from  Chicago 
and  100  miles  from  Mackinac,  lies  on  the  Michigan  side  of  the 
lake,  and  is  the  first  island  encountered  on  proceeding  north- 
ward from  Chicago.  It  rises  abruptly  on  the  west  shore  2  or 
300  feet  from  the  water's  edge,  sloping  toward  the  east  shore, 
on  which  is  a  light-house  and  a  fine  harbor.  Here  steamers 
stoT)  for  wood.    The  Great  or  North  Manitou  is  nearly  twice 


chicag* 

as^  large  as 
of  land.  ] 
principal  o< 
steamers  ai 

Fox  IsLA 
three  small 
which  is  he 
to  Green  Bi 
erse  Bay,  a 
tie  Traversi 

Great  i 
between  th( 
tile  bodies 
who  have  h 

Garden 
the  Strait 
about  six  n 
the  south  I 
Ignace,  on 
entrance  o 
miles  from 

Old  For 
tion ;  it  wc 
of  the  stra 
exclusively 
easily  reac 

Pte  la 
a  pictures( 

The  Sti 
width,  anc 
several  im 
being  Bois 
Between  i 
Garden 
were  still 
fall  of  the 


CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    BAUT    STE    MARIE.       l09 


a^ large  as  the  former  island,  and  contains  about  14,000  acres 
of  land.  Both  islands  are  settled  by  a  few  families,  whose 
principal  occupation  is  fishing  and  catting  wood  for  the  use  of 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels. 

Fox  liiLANDs,  50  miles  north  from  South  Manitou,  consist  of 
three  small  islands  lying  near  the  middle  of  Lake  Michigah} 
which  is  here  about  60  miles  wide.  On  the  west  is  the  entrance 
to  Green  Bay,  and  on  the  east  is  the  entrance  to  Grand  Trav- 
erse Bay,  and  immediately  to  the  north  is  the  entrance  to  Lit- 
tle Traverse  Bay. 

Great  and  Little  Beaver  islands,  lying  about  midway 
between  the  Manitou  Islands  and  Mackinac,  are  large  and  fer- 
tile bodies  of  land,  and  are  at  present  occupied  by  Mormons, 
who  have  here  their  most  eastern  settlement. 

Garden  and  Hog  islands  are  next  passed  before  reaching 
the  Strait  of  Mackinac,  which,  opposite  Old  Fort  Mackinac,  is 
about  six  miles  in  width.  The  site  of  Old  Fort  Mackinac  is  on 
the  south  main  or  Michigan  shore,  directly  opposite  Point  Ste 
Ignace,  on  the  north  main  shore.  St.  Helena  Island  lies  at  the 
entrance  of  the  strait  from  the  south,  distant  about  fifteen 
miles  from  Mackinac. 

Old  Fort  Mackinac  is  an  important  and  interesting  loca- 
tion ;  it  was  formerly  fortified  and  garrisoned  for  the  protection 
of  the  strait  and  this  section  of  country  when  inhabited  almost 
exclusively  by  various  tribes  of  Indians.  This  place  can  bo 
easily  reached  by  sail-boat  from  the  island  of  Mackinac. 

Pte  la  Orgs  Cap,  lying  to  the  west  of  Old  Fort  Mackinac,  is 
a  picturesque  headland  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

The  Strait  of  Mackinac  is  from  five  to  twenty  miles  in 
width,  and  extends  east  and  west  about  thirty  miles,  embosoming 
several  important  islands  besides  Mackinac  Island,  the  largest 
being  Bois  Blanc  Island,  lying  near  the  head  of  Lake  Huron. 
Between  this  island  and  the  main  north  shore  the  steamer 
Garden  City  was  wrecked.  May  16, 1864 ;  her  upper  works 
were  still  visible  from  the  deck  of  the  passing  steamer  in  the 
fall  of  the  same  year 

10 


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110       CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT    STE    MARIS. 


«     i 


i 


,;:;i!  1 V 


Grcsse  Ile  St.  Martin  and  lie  St.  Martin  lie  within  the 
waters  of  the  strait,  eight  or  ten  miles  north  of  the  island  of 
Mackinac.  In  the  nei|];hborhood  of  these  different  islands  are 
the  fayorite  fishing-grounds  both  of  the  Indian  and  the  "  pale 
face." 

The  town  and  fortress  of  Mackinac  is  most  beautifully  situ- 
ated  on  the  east  shore  of  the  island,  and  extends  for  a  distance 
of  about  one  mile  along  the  water's  edge,  and  has  a  fine  harbor 
protected  by  a  water  battery.  This  important  island  and 
fortress  is  situated  in  N.  lat.  45°  54',  W.  Ion.  84°  30'  from 
Greenwich,  being  seven  degrees  thirty  minutes  west  from 
Washington.  It  is  350  miles  north  from  Chicago,  100  miles  south 
of  Saut  Ste  Marie  by  the  steamboat  route,  and  about  300  miles 
northwest  from  Detroit.  Fori  Maclinac  stands  on  eleyated 
ground,  about  200  feet  above  the  water,  overlooking  the  pictur- 
esque town  and  harbor  below.  In  the  rear,  about  half  a  mile 
distant,  stands  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Holmes^  situated  on  the 
highest  point  of  land,  at  an  elevat'iOn  of  about  350  feet  above  the 
water,  affording  an  extensive  view. 

The  town  contains  two  churches,  two  hotels,  ten  or  twelve 
stores,  100  dwelling-houses,  and  about  600  inhabitants.  The 
climate  is  remarkably  healthy  and  delightful  during  the  summer 
months,  when  this  favored  retreat  is  usually  thronged  with 
visitors  from  different  parts  of  the  Union,  while  the  Indian 
warriors,  their  squaws  and  their  children,  are  seen  lingering 
around  this  their  favorite  island  and  fishing-ground.* 

The  island  of  Mackinac,  lying  in  the  Strait  of  Mackinac,  is 
about  three  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide.  It  contains  many 
deeply  interesting  points  of  attraction  in  addition  to  the  village 
and  fortress ;  the  principal  natural  curiosities  are  known  as  the 
Arch  Bock,  Sugar  Loaf,  Lover's  Leap,  Devil's  Kitchen,  Robin- 
son's Folly,  and  other  objects  of  interest  well  worthy  the  atten- 
tion of  the  tourist.  The  Mission  House  and  Grove  House  are 
the  principal  hotels.  v 

*  Sept  28, 1854,  the  thermometer  atood  at  60O  Fahr.  Very  pleasant 
we&ther  with  light  wind,  not  having  seen  a  wave  break  for  two  days. 


CHICAGO   TO    MACKINAC   AND    8AUT   8TE   MARIE.    Ill 


ISLAND  OF  MACKINAC. 

The  view  jk'iven  represents  the  Island,  approaching  from  the 
eastward.  •*  A  cliff  of  limestone,  white  and  weather-beaten, 
with  a  narrow  alluvial  plain  skirting  its  base,  is  the  first  thing 
wlch  commands  attention;"  but,  on  nearing  the  harbor,  the 
village  (2),  with  its  many  picturesque  dwellings,  and  the  fort- 
ress (3),  perched  near  the  summit  of  the  Island,  are  gazed  at 
with  wonder  and  delight.  The  promontory  on  the  left  is  called 
the  "  Lover's  Leap"  (1),  skirted  by  a  pebbly  beach,  extending 
to  the  village.  On  the  right  is  seen  a  bold  rocky  precipice, 
called  **  Robinson's  Folly"  (5),  while  in  the  same  direction  is 
a  singular  peak  of  nature  called  the  •*  Sugar  Loaf"  Still  far- 
ther onward,  the  "  Arched  Rock" and  other  interesting  sights, 
meet  the  eye  of  the  explorer,  affording  pleasure  and  delight, 
particularly  to  the  scientific  traveler  and  lover  of  nature.  On 
the  highest  ground,  elevated  about  350  feet  above  the  waters 
of  the  Strait,  is  the  signal  station  (4),  situated  near  the  ruins 
of  old  Fort  Holmes. 

The  settlement  of  this  Island  was  commenced  in  1764.  In 
1793  it  was  surrendered  to  the  American  government ;  taken 
by  the  British  in  1812 ;  but  restored  by  the  treaty  of  Ghent, 
signed  in  November,  1814. 


)■  sr 


^'■A 


J  ('. 


•-^4  -H 


i 


CHIOAOC 


ri  > 


iw 


Abohbd  Rcjoe.— Mackinao. 


The  wl  ol< 
scientific  ex 
ure.  The  i 
copied  from 
that  region 

"  As  par 
we  would  I 
The  former, 
interest.  1 
feet,  while  i 
ha^e  fallen 
in  a  project 
span  is  aboi 
about  ten 
which  rises 
which  an  < 
clambering 
edges  of  thi 

«*Thebe< 
direct  conn 
great  depti 
side,  and  th 
and  can  m 
frosts,  whic 
produce  gri 
side  now  cc 
be  destroye 
precipitatec 

"  It  is  e\ 
opening,  w 
operated  wl 

Sreat  lake  i 
enuding  a 
action  as  n 
on  the  shor 
scenery  of 
tion,  and  ii 
Engraving 

Other  pi 
enumerated 
^chanting 
afford  a  plei 
▼isitedand 


CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND   SAUT   BTS    MARIE.       113 


The  wli  ole  island  of  Mackinac  is  deeply  interesting  to  the 
flcientifio  explorer,  as  well  as  to  the  seeker  of  health  and  pleas- 
ure. The  following  extract,  illustrated  by  an  engraving,  is 
copied  from  "  Foster  and  Whitney's  Geological  Report"  of 
that  region : 

"  As  particular  examples  of  denuding  action  on  the  island, 
we  would  mention  tho  *  Arched  Rock'  and  the  '  Sugar  Loaf.' 
The  former,  situated  on  the  eastern  shore,  is  a  feature  of  great 
interest.  The  cliffs  here  attain  a  height  of  nearly  one  hundred 
feet,  while  at  the  base  are  strowr,  numerous  fragments  which 
lia'Te  fallen  fiom  above.  The  Arched  Rock  has  been  excavated 
in  a  projecting  angle  of  the  limestone  cliff,  and  the  top  of  the 
!^n  is  about  ninety  feet  above  the  lake-level,  surmounted  by 
about  ten  feet  of  rock.  At  tho  base  of  a  projecting  angle, 
which  rises  up  like  a  buttress,  there  is  a  small  opening,  through 
whioh  an  explorer  may  pass  to  the  main  arch,  where,  after 
clambering  over  the  steep  slope  of  debris  and  the  projecting 
edjrcs  of  the  strata,  he  reaches  the  brow  of  the  cliff. 

**  The  beds  forming  the  summit  cf  the  arch  are  cut  off  from 
direct  connection  with  the  main  rock  by  a  narrow  gorge  of  no 
great  depth.  The  portion  supporting  the  arch  on  the  north 
side,  and  the  curve  of  the  arch  itself,  are  comparatively  fragile, 
and  can  not,  for  a  long  period,  resist  the  action  of  rains  and 
frosts,  which,  in  this  latitude,  and  on  a  rock  thus  constituted, 
produce  great  ravages  every  season.  The  arch,  which  on  one 
side  now  connects  this  abutment  with  the  main  cliff,  will  soon 
be  destroyed,  as  well  as  the  ai*:.cment  itself,  and  the  whole  be 
precipitated  into  the  lake. 

*<  It  is  evident  that  the  denuding  action,  producing  such  an 
opening,  with  other  attendant  phenomena,  could  only  have 
operated  while  near  the  level  of  a  large  body  of  water,  like  the 

Sreat  lake  itself;  and  we  find  a  striking  similarity  between  the 
enuding  action  of  the  water  here  in  time  past,  and  the  same 
action  as  now  manifested  in  be  range  of  the  Pictured  Rocha 
on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior.  As  an  interesting  point  in  the 
scenery  of  this  island,  the  Arched  Rock  attracts  much  atten- 
tion, and  in  every  respect  is  worthy  of  examination."  ( See 
Engraving.) 

Other  picturesque  objects  of  great  interest,  besides  those 
enumerated  above,  occur  at  every  turn  on  roving  about  this 
enchanting  island,  where  the  pure,  bracing  air  and  clear  waters 
afford  a  pleasurable  sensation,  difficult  to  be  described,  unless 
tisited  and  enjoyed. 

10» 


114      CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    8AUT    8TK    MAUIE. 


M^    "i!  I 


Rod  VD  Ihland  ^'s  a  small  body  of  land  lying  a  short  distance 
southeast  of  Mackinac,  T7iiile  Bois  Blanc  Island  is  a  large 
bo<ly  of  land  lying  still  farther  in  the  distance,  at  the  head  of 
Lake  Huron,  here  about  30  miles  wide,  which  width  it  aver- 
ages for  about  50  miles,  whv  't  widens  to  100  miles  and  up- 
ward. 

Point  de  Tour,  40  miles  east  from  Mackinac,  is  the  site  of  a 
light-house  and  settlement,  at  the  entrance  of  St.  Mary's  Ilivcr, 
which  is  here  about  half  a  mile  in  width ;  this  passage  is  also 
calle<^l  the  West  Channel.  At  a  distance  of  about  two  miles 
above  the  Point  is  a  new  settlement,  where  has  been  erected  a 
steamboat  pier,  a  hotel,  and  several  dwellings. 

Drummond  IsLjt.ND,  a  large  and  important  body  of  land 
belonging  to  the  United  States,  is  passed  on  the  right,  where  is 
to  be  seen  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort  erected  by  the  British.  On 
the  left  is  the  mainland  of  Northern  Michigan.  Ascending  St. 
Mary's  River  next  is  passed  Round  or  Pipe  Island,  and  other 
smaller  islands  on  the  right,  most  of  them  belonging  to  the 
United  States. 

On  Drummond  Island  is  said  to  exist  a  fine  and  valuable 
quality  of  stone,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  extract : 

"  A  correspondent  of  the  New  Haven  Journal  denies  the  ac- 
curacy of  the  assertion  that  the  deposit  of  lithographic  stone 
lately  foi  nd  in  Kentucky  is  the  first  discovery  of  that  species 
of  stone  ill  the  t  nited  States.  The  writer  says  that  he  obtained 
a  specimeii  of  tne  same  kind  of  stone  in  1825  at  Drummond 
Island,  at  the  entrance  of  the  strait  between  Lakes  Huron  and 
Superior,  where  the  supply  was  apparently  inexhaustible.  The 
stone  was  carried  to  Boston  and  tested  by  a  lithographer,  who 
said  it  was  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  German  stone.  At 
that  time,  however,  Drummond  Island  was  far  less  accessible 
than  Germany,  and  the  discovery  was,  therefore,  of  no  prac- 
tical value." 

St.  Joseph  Island,  10  miles  above  Point  de  Tour,  is  a 
large  and  fertile  island  belonging  to  Canada,  which  is  more 
fully  described  on  page  43.  It  is  about  20  miles  long  from  east 
to  west,  and  about  15  miles  broad,  covered  in  part  with  a  heavy 
growth  of  forest  trees.    Here  is  seen  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort 


MARIE. 

rt  distance 
is  a  large 
le  head  of 
h  it  aver- 
ts and  up. 

le  site  of  a 
ry*s  River, 
ige  is  also 
two  miles 
I  erected  a 

ly  of  land 
t,  where  is 
•itish.  On 
sending  St. 
and  other 
ing  to  the 

i  valuable 
ract: 

es  the  ac- 
phic  stone 
lat  species 
e  obtained 
)rummond 
luron  and 
ible.  The 
ipher,  who 
stone.  At 
accessible 
r  no  prac- 

Cour,  is  a 
h  is  more 
from  east 
h.  a  heavy 
n  old  fort 


CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    8AUT    8TB    MAKIE.       115 

erected  by  the  British  on  a  point  of  land  commanding  the  chan- 
nel of  the  river. 

CARLTONviLiiE  Is  a  Small  settlement  on  the  Michigan  side  of 
the  river,  12  miles  above  the  De  Tour.  Hero  is  a  steam  saw- 
mill and  a  few  dwelling-houses. 

Lime  Island  is  a  small  body  of  land  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  lying  in  the  main  channel  of  the  river,  about  12  miles 
from  its  mouth.  The  channel  here  forms  the  boundary  between 
the  United  States  and  Canada.     . 

Mud  Lake,  as  it  is  called,  owing  to  its  waters  being  easily 
riled,  is  an  expansion  of  the  river  about  five  miles  wide  and 
ten  miles  long,  but  not  accurately  delineated  on  any  of  the 
modern  maps,  which  appear  to  be  very  deficient  in  regard  to 
St.  Mary's  River  and  its  many  islands — presenting  at  several 
points  most  beautiful  river  scenery  In  the  St.  Mary's  River 
there  are  about  50  islands  belonging  to  the  United  States,  be- 
sides several  attached  to  Canada. 

Nebish  Island  and  Sailor* s  Sncatnpment,  situated  about 
half  way  from  the  Point  to  the  Saut,  are  passed  on  the  left 
while  sailing  through  the  main  channel. 

Sugar  Island,  a  large  body  of  fertile  land  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  is  reached  about  30  miles  above  Point  ue  Tour, 
situated  near  the  head  of  St.  Joseph  Island.  On  the  right  is 
passed  the  British  or  JVbrth  Channel^  connecting  on  the  east 
with  Qeorgian  Bay.  Here  are  seen  two  small  rocky  islands 
belonging  to  the  British  Government,  which  command  both 
channels  of  the  river. 

The  JVebish  Rapids  are  next  passed  by  the  ascending  vessel, 
the  stream  here  running  about  five  knots  per  hour.  The  main 
knd  of  Canada  is  reached  immediately  above  the  rapids,  being 
clothed  with  a  dense  growth  of  forest  trees  of  small  size.  To 
the  north  is  a  dreary  wilderness,  extending  through  to  Hudson 
Bay,  as  yet  almost  wholly  unexplored  and  unknown,  except  to 
the  Indian  or  Canadian  hunter. 

Lake  George,  twenty  miles  below  the  Saut  is  another  ex- 
pansion of  the  river,  being  about  five  miles  wide  and  eight  miles 


U- 


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116       CHICAGO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    8AUT    STE    MARIK. 

long.  Here  the  channel  is  only  from  eight  to  ten  feet  in  depth 
for  about  one  mile,  forming  a  great  impediment  to  navigation. 

Church's  Landing,  on  Sugar  Inland,  twelve  miles  below  the 
Saut,  is  a  steamboat  landing;  opposite  it  is  Squirrei^  Island, 
belonging  to  the  Canadians.  This  is  a  convenient  landing,  where 
is  situated  a  store  and  dwelling.  The  industrious  occupants  arc 
noted  for  the  making  of  raspberry  jamt  which  is  sold  in  large 
quantities,  and  shipped  to  Eastern  and  Southern  markets. 

Garden  River  Settlement  is  an  Indian  village  ten  miles  be- 
low  the  Saut,  on  the  Canadian  shore.  Here  is  a  missionary 
church  and  several  dwellings,  surrounded  by  grounds  poorly 
cultivated,  fishing  and  hunting  being  the  main  employment  of 
the  Chippewa  Indians  who  inhabit  this  section  of  country. 
Both  sides  of  the  river  abound  in  wild  berries  of  good  flavor, 
which  are  gathered  in  large  quantities  by  the  Indians,  during 
the  summer  months.* 

Extract  from  a  letter  dated  Saut  Ste  Marie,  Sept.,  1854 : 
"  The  scenery  of  the  St.  Mary's  River  seems  to  grow  more 
attractive  every  year.  There  is  a  delicious  freshness  in  the 
countless  evergreen  islands  that  dot  the  river  in  every  direction 
from  the  Fails  to  Lake  Huron,  and  I  can  imagine  of  no  more 
tempting  retreats  from  the  dusty  streets  of  towns,  in  summer, 
than  these  islands;  I  believe  the  time  will  soon  come  when 
neat  summer  cottages  will  be  scattered  along  the  steamboat 
route  on  these  charming  islands.  A  summer  could  be  delight- 
fully spent  in  exploring  for  new  scenery  and  in  fishing  and  sail- 
ing in  these  waters. 

"  And  Mackinac,  what  an  attractive  little  piece  of  terra  Jirma 
is  that  island — half  ancient,  half  modern !  The  view  from  the 
fort  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  Perched  on  the  brink  of 
a  precipice  some  two  hundred  feet  above  the  bay — one  takes  in 
at  a  glance  from  its  walls  the  harbor,  with  its  numerous  boats 
and  the  pretty  village ;  and  the  whole  rests  on  one's  vision  more 
like  a  picture  than  a  reality.  Every  thing  on  the  island  is  a 
curiosity ;  the  roads  or  streets  that  wind  uround  the  harbor  or 
among  the  grove-like  forests  of  the  island  are  naturally  pebbled 
and  macadamized ;  the  buildings  are  of  every  style,  from  an 
Indian  lodge  to  a  fine  English  house.  The  island  is  covered  with 
charming  natural  scenery,  from  the  pretty  to  the  grand,  and 

*  Sept  80,  1854,  the  thermometer  stood  at  42^  Fahr.,  at  the  Saat  Ste 
Marie,  in  the  morning,  a  flner^lay  for  the  season,  with  little  or  no  wind. 


CinCAOO    TO    MACKINAC    AND    8AUT    8TE    MARIE.       117 

one  may  spend  weeks  constantly  finding  now  objects  of  interest 
and  new  scenes  of  beauty.  It  is  unnecessary  to  particularize — 
every  visitor  will  find  tliem,  and  enjoy  the  sight  more  than  any 
description. 

'••The  steamers  all  call  there,  on  their  way  to  and  from  Chicago, 
and  hundreds  of  small  sail  vessels,  in  the  fishing  trade,  have 
here  their  head -quarters.  Drawn  upon  the  pebbled  beach  or 
plidinp  about  the  little  bay  are  bark  canoes  and  the  far-famed 
♦»  Mackinac  boats,"  without  number.  These  last  are  the  perfec- 
tion of  light  sail-boats,  and  I  have  often  been  astonished  at  see- 
ing them  far  out  in  the  lake  beating  up  against  winds  that  were 
next  to  gales.  Yesterday  the  harbor  was  thronged  with  sail- 
boats and  vessels  of  every  description,  among  the  rest  were  the 
only  two  irgn  steamers  that  the  United  States  have  upon  all  the 
laices,  the  "Michigan"  and  the  "Surveyor,"  formerly  called 
the  "  Abert,"  employed  in  the  coast  survey. 

"  For  a  wonder.  Lake  Huron  was  calm  and  at  rest  for  its  en- 
tire length,  and  the  steamer  Northerner  made  a  beautiful  and 
quick  passage  from  Mackinac  to  this  place.  The  weather  con- 
tinues warm  and  dry,  and  hundreds  are  regretting  they  have 
80  early  left  the  Saut  and  Mackinac,  and  we  believe  you  will 
6M  crowds  of  visitors  yet.  Jay." 


>  I 


■■'«• 


5 

I 
i' 


1^'   ^1 


■  4 


'   '^ 


.^ 


ilH    I 


*A. 


*•' 


i''.  i^i 


118 


LAKE  HURON. 


A  SUNDAY  ON  LAKE  HURON. 

During  the  autumn  of  1856  the  steamer  Illinois  arrived 
at  Saut  Ste  Marie  on  Saturday  evening,  on  her  return  from  a  | 
trip  through  Lake  Superior,  having  proceeded  to  La  Pointe, 
situated  on  one  of  the  "  Twelve  Apostles,"  and  thence  crossed 
over  to  the  extreme  western  shore  of  the  lake,  near  the  mouth 
of  Pigeon  River,  returning  along  the  north  or  Canada  shore  to 
the  Saut,  with  a  pleasure  party  on  board. 

While  the  steamer  was  detained  at  the  wharf,  below  the 
mouth  of  the  ship  canal,  most  of  the  passengers,  and  many  of 
the  citizens  of  this  ancient  and  romantic  village,  together  with 
a  few  Canadians  from  the  opposite  shore,  amused  themselves  by 
music  and  danci'  j;  while  not  a  few  drank  deep  from  the  in- 
toxicating bowl.  This  scene  of  pleasure  was  kept  up  until  near 
midnight,  when,  one  by  one,  the  passengers  retired  to  their  rest, 
and  the  villagers  bade  adieu  to  their  new-made  and  old  ac- 
quaintances. 

The  next  morning  the  steamer  wab  coursing  her  way  through 
the  pure  and  lovely  waters  of  the  St.  Mary's  River,  with  every 
appearance  of  a  fine  day.  After  passing  Sugar  Island,  the 
Nebish  Rapids,  and  the  island  of  St.  Joseph,  and  entering  the 
broad  waters  of  Lake  Huron,  a  most  beautiful  view  was  pre- 
sented to  our  gaze.  In  the  rear  was  seen  the  entrance  to  the 
De  Tour  passage,  just  passed,  and  the  British  island  of  St. 
Joseph — on  the  north  lay  Drummond  Island,  attached  to  the 
stars  and  stripes,  although  bearing  a  foreign  name — while  in 
the  far  distance  southward  were  seen  the  romantic  island  of 
Mackinac  and  the  main  shore  of  Michigan. 

At  this  time,  the  hour  of  breakfast  having  passed,  the  Rev. 

Mr.  ,  an  Episcopal  minister  from  Ontonagon,  Mich.,  vras 

invited  to  read  the  church  service  and  preach  a  sermon,  for  the 
benefit  of  the  passengers  on  board,  among  whom  were  persopj 
of  different  creeds  and  nations.  Never  was  a  discourse  more 
appropriately  selected,  or  received  with  more  devout  attention, 


LAKE    HURON. 


110 


*  i 

I! 


considering  the  mixed,  and  mostly  strange,  persons  assembled 
in  the  after-cabin. 

The  lake,  when  seen,  presented  a  serene  and  quiet  calmness, 
alono  disturbed  by  the  powerful  machinery  propelling  us 
through  the  waters  at  a  most  rapid  rate ;  while  the  sentiments 
nnd  rich  melody  of  the  speaker's  voice  lent  a  charm  to  the  scene 
never  to  be  forgot  by  many  then  present.  Thus  should  it  al- 
ways be  oii  a  Sabbath,  while  journeying  over  these  magnificent 
waters,  if  the  weather  will  permit — blending  serious  thoughts 
with  the  most  grand  and  lovely  objects  of  nature— that  pro- 
duced by  the  view  of  land  and  water,  as  seen  at  times  on  the 
great  lakes  of  North  America. 

A  hounteous  dinner  was  next  served  up,  afifording  delight  to 
those  blessed  with  good  appetites ;  while  every  passenger,  male 
»Qd  female,  seemed  to  enjoy  the  scenery  that  during  the  entire 
day  was  visible  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer. 

Thunder  Bay,  Saginaw  Bay,  and  Point  au  Barque  were  passed 

in  succession— the  mainland  on  the  Canada  or  Michigan  shore 

I  beinj,  for  most  of  the  time,  seen  in  the  far  distance ;  while 

occasionally  the  smoke  of  a  passing  steamer  or  a  sail  vessel 

caught  the  eye,  silently  gliding  over  the  broad  waters  of  Lake 

I  Haron. 

Were  it  not  for  the  almost  criminal  carelessness  or  reckless- 

I  ness  of  many  of  the  owners  and  masters  of  steamers  navigating 

these  lakes,  whereby  hundreds  of  valuable  lives  have  been  lost 

and  millions  of  property  destroyed,  no  more  safe,  instructive, 

or  grand  excursion  could  be  found  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 


i  1 


120 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTK. 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  CHICAGO  TO  MACKINAC  AND 

SAUT  8TE  MARIE. 


PASSING    THROUGH 

Ports,  etc. 

Chicago,  111 

TVaukegan 

Kenosha.,  Wis 

Racine 

Milwaukee 

Port  Washington 

Sheboygan 

Manitouwoc 

Tuw  Rivers 

Kewaunee,  (25  miles) . . . 
South  Manitou  Is.  Mich. 

North  Manitou  Is 

Fox  Islands 

Great  Beayer  Is 

Hog  and  Garden  Islands 

Old  Fort  Mackinac 

Mackinac*  Is.  and  town 

Point  De  Tour 

St.  Joseph  Is.,  C.  W.  ... 
Nebish  Rapids, 
Sugar  Island, 

Ohiprch^s  Landing 

Garden  River  Set.,  C.  W. 
Saut  Ste  MAHiE,Mich. 


LAKES   MICHIGAN    AND   HURON. 


ds,    ^ 
I,  Mich.  5  • 


Miles. 

0 

36 

62 

62 

86 

111 

136 

156 

173 

250 
260 
300 
316 
325 
340 
350 
396 
400 

420 

431 
435 
446 


Usual  Fare,  $8,  including 
meals. 


Ports,  etc.           '  Miles. 

Saut  Ste  Marie 0 

Garden  River  Set 10 

Churches  Landing,  ) 
Sugar  Island,  5 

Nebish  Rapids 25 

St.  Joseph  Is.,  C.  W.  . . .  26 

Point  De  Tour 50 

Mackinac,  Is.  and  town  95 

Old  Fort  Mackinac 105 

Hog  and  Garden  Islands  120 

Great  Beaver  Is 130 

Fox  Islands  . , 145 

North  Manitou  Is 185 

South  Manitou  Is 195 

Kewaunee,  Wis 

Two  Rivers 272 

Manitouwoc 289 

Sheboygan 309 

Port  Washington 334 

Milwaukee 359 

Racine 383 

Kenosha 393 

Waukegan,  HI 409 

Chicago 445 

Usual  Time,  48  hours. 


lit    >I!J 


*  The  steamers  running  fVom  Detroit  and  CoUingwood  to  Oreen  Bay 
and  Chicago  all  stop  at  this  port. 


STEAMBOAT    ROUTE. 


121 


CINAC  AND  I  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FEOM  8AUT  8TE  MARIE  TO  DETROIT. 


PASSING   THROUGH 

Ports,  etc. 

S.vUT  Stk  Marie 

Garden  River  Set.,  C.W. 

Churches  Landing 

Lake  George 

Nebish  Rapids 

St  Joseph  Is.,  C.  W 

Mud  Lake  

Lime  Island,  Mich 

Dnimmond  Island 

Point  De  Tour,  ^ 
Lake  Huron,  5 
Mackinac,  (40  miles) . . . 

Presque  Isle 

Thunder  Bay  Is 

Saginaw  Bay 

Point  au  Barque 

St.  Clair  River,  ^ 
Fort  Gratoit,     5 
Port  Huron,  Mich.  ^ 
Port  Sarma.C.  W.  5     * 

St.  Clair,  Mich 

Newport  

Algonac 

St.  Clair  Lake 

Detroit  River 

Detroit 


;:s 


LAKES   HURON   AND   ST.    CLAIR. 

Miles.        Ports,  etc. 

0    Detroit 

10    Lake  St.  Clair  ... 
St.  Clair  Flats  .... 

Algonac  

Newport 

St.  Clair 

Port  Sarnia,  C.  W. 
Port  Huron,  Mich 
Fort  Gratiot,  ^ 
Lake  Huron,  5 
Point  au  Barque 
Saginaw  Bay. . . 
Thunder  Bay  Is. 
Presque  Isle,  . . . 
Mackinac,  (70  miles) 
Point  De  Tour, 
St.  Mary's  River 

Drummond  Island 

St.  Joseph  Island,  G.  W. 

Lime  Island 

Mud  Lake 

Sugar  Island 

Lake  George 


14 
20 
24 
25 
80 
43 
48 

60 


105 
135 
ISO 
210 

276 

277 


.,!■ 


294 
304 
310 
313 
843 
850 


Churches  Landing 

Garden  River  Set.,  C.  W. 
Saut  Ste  Marie 


Miles. 
0 
7 

80 
40 
46 
66 

73 


75 


140 
160' 
215' 
245. 

300' 

802' 

310- 

812 

820 

825« 

830' 

336 

840  • 

860^ 


to  Green  Ba; 


Fare,  $7,  including  meals.  Usual  Time,  80  hours. 

11 


>i 


TRIP  FROM  DETROIT  TO  MACKINAC  AND  SAUT  STE 
MARIE,  PASSING  THROUGH  LAKE  HURON. 


During  the  season  of  navigation,  steamers  of  a  large  class, 
with  good  accommodations  for  passengers,  leave  Detroit  almost 
daily  for  Mackinac,  for  Green  Bay,  for  Chicago,  situated  on 
Lake  Michigan,  or  for  the  Saut  Ste  Marie ;  from  thence  passing 
through  the  ship  canal  into  Lake  Superior,  forming  delightful 
excursions  during  the  summer  and  the  early  autumn  months. 

On  leaving  Detroit  the  steamers  run  in  a  northerly  direction, 
passing  Belle,  or  Hog  Island,  two  miles  distant,  which  is  about 
three  miles  long  and  one  mile  broad,  presenting  a  handsome  ap- 
pearance. The  Canadian  shore  on  the  right  is  studded  with 
dwellings  and  well-cultivated  farms. 

Peche  Island  is  a  small  body  of  land  attached  to  Canada, 
lying  at  the  mouth  of  Detroit  River,  opposite  which,  on  the 
Michigan  shore,  is  Wind  Mill  Point  and  light-house. 

Lake  St.  Clair  commences  seven  miles  above  Detroit;  it 
may  be  said  to  be  20  miles  long  and  25  miles  wide,  measuring 
its  length  from  the  outlet  of  St.  Clair  River  to  the  head  of  De- 
troit River.  Compared  with  the  other  lakes  it  is  very  shallow, 
having  a  depth  of  only  from  8  to  24  feet,  as  indicated  by  Bay- 
field's chart.  It  receives  the  waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes  from 
the  St.  Clair  Strait  by  several  channels  forming  islands,  and 
discharges  them  into  the  Detroit  River  or  Strait.  In  the  upper 
portion  of  the  lake  are  several  extensive  islands,  the  largest  of 
which  is  Walpole  Maud  ;  it  belongs  to  Canada,  and  is  inhab- 
ited mostly  by  Indians.  All  the  islands  to  the  west  of  Walpole 
Island  belong  to  Michigan.  The  Walpole,  or  "  Old  Ship  Chan- 
nel," forms  the  boundary  between  the  United  Stat(«  and  Can- 
ada. The  main  channel,  now  used  by  the  larger  class  of  ves- 
sels, is  called  the  "  North  Channel."  Here  are  passed  the  *'  St. 
Clair  Flats,"  a  great  impediment  to  navigation,  for  the  removal 


i.  • 


DETROIT    TO   MACKINAC    AND   8AUT    STE    MARIE.    123  lil'^l^tff 


of  which  Congress  will  no  doubt  make  ample  appropriation 
sooner  oi'  later.  The  northeastern  channel,  separating  Walpole 
Mand  from  the  main  Canada  shore,  is  called  "  Chenail  Ecarte." 
Besides  the  waters  passing  through  the  Strait  of  St.  Glair,  Lake 
St.  Clair  receives  the  river  Thames  from  the  Canada  side,  which 
ia  navigable  to  Chatham,  some  24  miles ;  also  the  waters  of  Clin- 
ton River  from  the  west  or  American  side,  the  latter  being 
narigable  to  Mt.  Clemens,  Michigan.  Several  other*  streams 
flow  into  the  lake  from  Canada,  the  principal  of  which  is  the 
RiTer  Sydenham.  Much  of  the  land  bordering  on  the  lake  is 
low  and  marshy,  as  well  as'  the  islands ;  and  in  places  there  are 
large  plains  which  are  used  for  grazing  cattle. 

Ashley,  or  New  Baltimore,  situated  on  the  N.W.  side  of 
Lake  St.  Clair,  80  miles  from  Detroit,  is  a  new  and  flourishing 
place,  and  has  a  fine  section  of  country  in  the  rear.  It  contains 
tliree  steam  saw-mills,  several  other  manufactories,  and  about 
1,000  inhabitants.   A  steamboat  runs  from  this  plate  to  Detroit. 

Mt.  Clemens,  Macomb  Co.,  Mich.,  is  situated  on  Clinton 
River,  six  miles  above  its  entrance  into  Lake  St.  Clair,  and 
about  30  miles  from  Detroit  by  lake  and  river.  A  steamer  plies 
daily  to  and  from  Detroit  during  the  season  of  navigation.  Mt. 
Clemens  contains  the  county  buildings,  several  churches,  three 
hotels,  and  a  number  of  stores  and  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, and  about  2.500  inhabitants.  Detroit  is  distant  by 
plank-road  only  20  miles. 

Chatham,  C.  W.,  46  miles  from  Detroit  by  railroad  route, 
and  about  24  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  Thames,  which 
enters  into  Lake  St.  Clair,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  thriving  place 
of  business,  where  have  been  built  a  large  number  of  steamers 
and  sail-vessels. 

Algonac,  Mich.,  situated  near  the  foot  of  St.  Clair  River, 
40  miles  from  Detroit,  contains  a  church,  two  or  three  saw- 
loills,  and  about  600  inhabitants 

Newport,  Mich.,  seven  miles  farther  north,  is  noted  for 
Bteamboat  building,  there  being  extensive  ship-yards,  where  are 
annually  employed  a  large  number  of  workmen.    Here  are  four 


'j  I' 


-r 


124     DBTROIT    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT    8TE    MARIE. 


steam  saw-mills,  machine  shops,  etc.    Population  about  800. 
Belle  River  here  enters  the  St.  Clair  from  the  west. 

S^r.  Clair  Strait  connects  Lake  Huron  with  Lake  St.  Claif, 
and  discharges  the  surplus  waters  of  Lakes  Superior,  Michigan, 
and  Huron.  It  flows  in  a  southerly  direction,  and  enters  Lake 
St.  Clair  by  six  channels,  the  north  one  of  which,  on  the  Mich- 
igan side,  is  the  only  one  at  present  navigated  by  large  vessels 
in  ascending  and  descending  the  river.  It  receives  several 
tributaries  from  the  west,  or  Michigan ;  the  principal  of  which 
are  Black  River,  Pine  River,  and  Belle  River,  and  several  rivers 
flow  into  it  from  the  east,  or  Canadian  side.  It  has  several 
flouridiing  villages  on  its  banks.  Tt  is  48  miles  long,  from  a 
half  to  a  mile  wide,  and  has  an  average  depth  of  from  40  to  50 
feet,  with  a  current  of  three  miles  an  hour,  and  an  entire  de- 
scent of  about  1 6  feet.  Its  waters  are  clear  and  transparent, 
the  navigation  easy,  and  the  scenery  varied  and  beautiful- 
forming,  for  its  entire  length,  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada.  The  banks  of  the  upper  portion  are  high ; 
those  of  the  lower  portion  are  low,  and  in  parts  inclined  to  he 
marshy.  Both  banks  of  the  river  are  generally  well  settled, 
and  many  of  the  farms  are  beautifully  situated.  There  are 
several  wharves  constructed  on  the  Canada  side,  for  the  con- 
venience of  supplying  the  numerous  steamboats  passing  and  re- 
passing  with  wood.  There  is  also  a  settlement  of  the  Chippewa 
Indians  in  the  township  of  Sarnia,  Canada ;  the  Indians  reside 
in  small  log  or  bark  houses  of  their  own  erection. 

St.  Clair,  Mich.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
St.  Clair  Strait,  56  miles  from  Detroit  and  14  miles  from  Lake 
Huron.  This  is  a  thriving  place,  with  many  fine  buildings, 
and  is  a  great  lumber  depot.  It  contains  the  county  buildings 
for  8i.  Clair  Co.,  several  churches  and  hotels,  one  flouring 
mill,  and  five  steam  saw-mills,  besides  other  manufacturing 
establishments,  and  about  3,000  inhabitants.  St.  Clair  has  an 
active  business  in  the  construction  of  steamers  and  other  lake 
craft.  The  site  of  old  Fort  St,  Clair,  now  in  ruins,  is  on  the 
border  of  the  village 


DETROIT    TO   MACKINAC    AND   SAUT   STE   MARIE.    125 

SouTHERLAND,  G.  W.,  is  a  Small  village  on  the  Canada  shore, 
opposite  St.  Clair.  It  was  laid  out  in  1833  by  a  Scotch  gentle- 
man of  the  same  name,  who  here  erected  an  Episcopal  church, 
and  made  other  valuable  improvemeAita. 

Moore,  C.  W.,  is  a  small  village  ten  miles  below  Port  Sarnia 

Fromefield,  or  Talfoxtrd's,  C.  W.,  is  another  small  village, 
handsomely  situated  four  and  a  half  miles  below  Port  Sarnia 
Here  is  an  Episcopal  cuurch,  a  wind-mill,  and  a  cluster  of 
dwellings. 

Port  Sarnia,  C.  W.,  68  miles  from  Detroit,  is  an  important 
place  and  port  of  entry,  handsomely  situated  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  river  St.  Clair,  opposite  Port  Hnron  on  the  American 
shore,  and  near  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron.  It  now  contains  about 
2,500  inhabitants,  and  is  the  proposed  terminus  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  of  Canada,  which  will  afford  a  speedy  com- 
munication with  Hamilton,  Toronto,  Kingston,  Montreal,  and 
Quebec.  Steamers  run  from  Port  Sarnia  to  Goderich,  and 
different  places  on  the  Upper  Lakes,  and  to  Detroit,  etc. 

Port  Huron,  St.  Clair  Co.,  Mich.,  is  very  advantageously 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  St.  Clair,  at  the  mouth 
of  Black  River,  two  miles  below  Lake  Huron  and  68  miles  from 
Detroit  by  water.  It  contains  several  churches,  two  or  three 
public  houses,  fifteen  stores,  one  steam  flouring-mill,  four  steam 
saw-mills,  and  several  other  manufacturing  establishments. 
Population  about  3,000.  It  is  an  important  depot  for  lumber, 
fish,  etc.  A  railroad  is  to  be  constructed  from  Port  Huron  to 
Corunna  and  Grand  Rapids,  connecting  with  the  Detroit  and 
Milwaukee  Railroad ;  another  railroad  will  extend  to  Detroit, 
thus  forming  a  direct  route  from  Lake  Huron  to  Lake  Michigan, 
and  to  Toledo,  Cincinnati,  etc.  During  the  season  of  navigation 
there  is  daily  intercourse  by  steamboat  with  Detroit. 

Fort  Gratoit,  two  miles  above  Port  H^cn,  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  Lake  Huron,  at  the  commencement  of  the  St.  Clair 
Strait.  It  was  built  in  1814,  at  the  close  of  the  war  with  Great 
Britain,  and  consists  of  a  stockade,  including  a  magazine,  bar- 
neks,  and  other  accommodations  for  a  garrison  of  one  bat- 

II* 


>:.]     .,4!  J 


'  > 


1  ll' 


m 


M 


. 


126     DETROIT    TO    MACKINAd    AND    8AUT    6TE    MARIR. 

talion.  It  fully  commands  the  entrance  to  Lake  Huron,  from  the 
American  shore,  and  is  an  interesting  landmark  to  the  mariner. 

Point  Edward,  on  the  opposite  Canadian  shore,  is  a  military 
reserve,  where  is  usually  stationed  a  small  British  force.  It 
also  commands  the  entrance  tc  Lake  Huron.  In  the  vicinity  is 
an  excellent  fishery,  where  upward  of  1,000  barrels  of  fish  are 
annually  taken  and  exported. 

During  the  season  of  navigation,  steamers  run  daily  from 
Detroit  to  Port  Sarnia,  Goderich,  Saugeen,  and  other  ports  in 
Canada  West. 

Bayfield,  108  miles  from  Detroit,  is  a  new  and  flourishing 
place,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same  name. 

Goderich,  120  miles  north  of  Detroit,  is  situated  on  elevated 
ground  at  the  mouth  of  Maitland  River,  where  is  a  good  har- 
bor. This  is  a  very  important  and  growing  place,  where  will 
terminate  the  Buffalo  and  Huron  Mailroad,  160  miles  in 
length.     (  See  page  000. ) 

Kincardine,  thirty  miles  from  Goderich,  is  another  port  on 
the  Canadian  side  of  Lake  Huron,  where  the  British  steamers 
land  and  receive  passengers  on  their  trips  to  Saugeen. 

Saugken,  C.  W.,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the 
same  name,  where  ie  a  good  harbor  for  steamei^  and  lake  craft. 
This  is  the  most  northern  port  to  which  steamers  now  run  on 
the  Canada  side  of  Lake  Huron,  and  will  no  doubt,  ere  long,  be 
reached  by  railroad. 

Lake  Huron,  oflF  the  mouth  of  Saginaw  Bay,  presents  a  wide 
expanse  of  waters,  attaining  its  greatest  width  after  passing 
Point  au  Barque ;  the  steamer  usually  takes  a  northerly  direc* 
tion  for  many  miles,  when  running  toward  the  Strait  of  Mack- 
inac.   On  the  east  lies  the  Canada  shore  and  Georgian  Bay. 

Forrestville,  Mich.,  120  miles  north  of  Detroit,  situated 
on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Huron,  is  a  new  settlen.  t,  where  is 
erected  an  extensive  steam  saw-mill.  It  has  some  three  or  four 
hundred  inhabitants,  mostly  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade.  A 
steamer  runs  from  Detroit  to  this  landing,  which  is  distant  47 
miles  from  Port  Huron. 


DETROIT    TO    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT    8TE    MARIE.    127 

Saginaw  Bay  is  a  Tery  Inrge  body  of  water,  it  being 
about  80  miles  wide  and  60  miles  long,  penetrating  far  into  the 
lower  peninsula  of  Michigan.  There  are  several  islands  near 
the  center  of  the  bay  and  along  its  eastern  shore ;  while  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  fish  are  taken  from  its  waters  in  large  quanti- 
ties. Saginaw  River j  flowing  into  the  head  of  the  bay,  is  a 
large  and  navigable  stream,  draining  a  rich  section  of  country. 

Lower  Saginaw,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  a  flourish- 
ing settlement,  from  whence  a  large  amount  of  lumber  is  an- 
nually exported. 

Saginaw  City,  Saginaw  Co.,  Mich.,  is  handsomely  situated 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  23  miles  above  its  mouth.  It 
contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  several  churches,  two  hotels, 
15  stores,  two  warehouses,  and  six  steam  saw-mills.  Population 
about  4,000.  There  is  a  fine  section  of  country  in  the  rear  of 
Saginaw,  much  of  which  is  heavily  timbered ;  the  soil  produces 
grain  in  abundance,  while  the  streams  afford  means  r^  easy 
transportation  to  market.  Steamers  run  daily  from  Saginaw 
City  to  Detroit,  during  the  season  of  navigation. 

East  Saginaw,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
about  one  mile  below  Saginaw  City,  is  a  new  and  flourishing 
place,  also  largely  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade,  where  are 
located  several  extensive  steam  saw-mills  and  other  manufao- 
toring  establishments. 

The  other  important  points  passed  on  a  trip  from  Detroit  to 
Mackinac  or  the  Saut  Ste  Marie  are  Thunder  Bay  Island  and 
light,  and  Presque  Isle,  on  the  Michigan  shore;  while  the 
Great  Manitoulin  Island,  Great  Duck  Island,  and  Cockburn 
Island  are  on  the  Canada  side. 

If  the  s«eamer  is  bound    or  Mackinac,  a  westerly  course  is 

1  pursued  after  passing  Presnue  isie  light  until   Bois   Blanc 

I  Island  is  reached  and  passed,  the  steamer  then  gliding  through 

the  Strait  of  Mackinac,  where  the  water-surface  narrows  to 

the  width  of  about  20  miles! 


VI 


y.  ■. 


*i  V 


'irfliiW 


BAYS  AND  RIVERS-SOIL,  CLIMATE,  ETC.,  OF 
THE  LOWER  PENINSULA  OF  MICHIGAN. 


The  Lower  Peninsula  of  Michigan  is  nearly  surronnded  by 
the  waters  of  the  Great  Lakes,  and,  in  this  respect,  its  situa- 
tion is  naturally  more  fuTorable  for  all  the  purposes  of  trade 
and  commerce  than  any  other  of  the  Western  States. 

The  numerous  streams  which  penetrate  every  portion  of  the 
peninsula,  some  of  which  are  navigable  for  steamboats  a  con* 
Biderable  distance  from  the  lake,  being  natural  out^ts  for  the 
products  of  the  interior,  render  this  whole  region  desirable  for 
purposes  of  settlement  and  cultivation.  Even  as  far  north  as 
the  Strait  of  Mackinac,  the  soil  and  climate,  together  with  the 
valuable  timber,  offer  great  inducements  to  settlers ;  and  if  the 
proposed  railroads,  under  the  recent  grant  of  large  portions  of 
these  lands  by  Congress,  are  constructed  from  and  to  the  differ- 
ent points  indicated,  this  extensive  and  heavily  timbered  region 
will  speedily  be  reclaimed,  and  become  one  of  the  most  sub- 
stantial and  prosperous  agricultural  portions  of  the  West. 

It  is  well  that  in  the  system  of  compensation,  which  seems  to 
be  a  great  law  of  the  universe,  the  vast  prairies  which  comprise 
so  large  a  portion  of  this  great  Western  domain  are  proviued 
so  well  with  corresponding  regions  of  timber,  affording  the 
necessary  supply  of  lumber  for  the  demand  of  the  increasing 
population  which  is  so  rapidly  pouring  into  these  Western 
States. 

The  State  of  Michigan — all  the  waters  of  which  flow  into  the 
basin  of  the  St.  Lawrence — Northern  Wisconsin,  and  Minuesota 
are  the  sources  from  which  the  States  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
and  Iowa,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  prairie  country  west  of 
the  Mississippi,  must  derive  theii'  supply  of  this  important 
article  (lumber). 

The  quantity  of  pine  lumber  manufactured  in  Michigan  alone 


BATS,   RIVERS,    ETC.,   OF    MrCIIIOAN. 


129 


is  estimated  for  the  past  year  to  amount  to  nearly  one  thousand 
millions  of  feet.  The  amount  sold  in  Chicago  in  1856  was  up- 
ward of  450  millions,  at  an  average  price  of,  say  $14  per 
thousand. 

Tliis  great  commodity  iq  to  a  considerable  degree  undervalued. 
The  supply  in  the  West  is  now  equal  to  the  demand,  but  the 
consumption  is  so  great,  and  the  demand  so  constantly  in^^reas- 
isg  with  the  development  and  settlement  of  the  countrj ,  that 
of  necessity,  within  comparatively  a  very  few  years,  these  vast 
forests  will  be  exliausted.  It  is  estimated  that  in  ten  years  a 
Tery  large  proportion  of  the  pine  timber,  accessible  to  navigable 
streams,  will  be  consumed.  But  as  the  timber  is  exhausted  the 
soil  is  prepared  for  cultivation,  and  a  large  portion  of  the  north- 
em  part  of  the  southern  peninsula  of  Michigan  will  be  settled 
I  and  cultivated,  as  it  is  the  most  reliable  wheat-growing  portion 
of  the  Union. 

Natural  points  for  harbors  are  found  at  the  mouths  of  nearly 
all  the  large  streams  in  the  State.  Besides  the  ports  and  towns 
already  described,  there  are  on  Lake  Huro?i,  after  leaving  Sag- 
inaw Bay  going  north,  several  settlements  and  lumber  estab- 
lishments, fisheries,  etc.  These  are  at  Sauble  River,  Black 
River,  and  Devil  River.  At  Thunder  Bay  a  very  flourishing 
town  is  being  built  up,  with  a  superior  water-power  on  the 
riTer.  This  is  the  county  seat  of  Alpena  County.  The  next 
important  point  on  the  coast  is  Cheboygan  River,  The  U.  S. 
Land  Office  for  this  district  is  located  here,  at  a  small  town  on 
the  bay  called  Duncan.  This  point  is  nearly  opposite  the  isl- 
and of  Mackinac. 

Passing  around  the  western  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  at 
the  Waugoshance  Light  and  Island,  the  next  point  is  Little 
Traverse  Bay.  This  is  the  terminus  of  the  Amboy  and  Trav- 
e  se  Bay  Railroad. 

About  fifteen  miles  southnv  asterly  from  Little  Traverse  wo 
enter  Grand  Iraverse  Bay^  a  large  and  beautiful  arm  of  the 
lake,  extending  about  thirty  miles  inland.  This  bay  is  divided 
ittto  two  parts  by  a  point  of  land  from  two  to  four  miles  wide 


130 


DAYS,    U1VER8,    ETC.,    OF    MICIIIOAN. 


'■t 


Ui 


11 


extending  from  the  head  of  the  bay  about  eighteen  miles  toward 
the  lake.  The  country  around  thiL  bay  is  exceedingly  pictur. 
esque,  and  embraces  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  portions  of 
the  State 

The  climate  is  mild,  and  fruit  and  grain  of  all  kinds  suitable 
to  a  northern  latitude  are  produced,  with  less  liability  to  in- 
jury from  frost  than  in  some  of  the  southern  portions  of  the 
State. 

Large  quantities  of  these  lands  have  been  located,  and  sct- 
oral  sctremcnts  and  towns  are  rapidly  growing  up.  Grand 
Traverse  City  is  located  at  the  head  of  the  west  arm  of  the  bay, 
and  is  the  terminus  of  the  proposed  railroad  from  Grand  Rap- 
ids, a  distance  cf  about  140  miles. 

Passing  out  of  the  bay  and  around  the  point  dividing  the 
west  arm  from  the  lake,  we  first  arrive  at  the  river  Jiux  Bees 
Seeis.  There  is  here  a  natural  harbor,  capable  of  accommoda- 
ting the  larger  class  of  vessels  and  steamboats.  A  small  settle- 
ment has  been  commenced  at  this  place,  but  with  its  natural 
advantages,  and  the  capital  and  enterprise  of  parties  "(vho  now 
contemplate  making  further  improvements,  it  will  soon  become 
a,  very  desirable  and  convenient  point  for  the  accommodation 
of  navigators. 

The  islands  comprising  the  Beavers,  the  Manitous,  and  Fox 
isles  should  here  be  noticed.  The  Beavers  lie  a  little  south  of 
west  from  the  entrance  to  the  Bi'rait  of  Mackinac,  the  Mani- 
tous a  little  south  of  these,  and  the  Fox's  still  farther  dowB 
the  lake.  These  are  all  valuable  for  fishing  purposes,  and  for 
wood  and  lumber.  Lying  in  the  route  of  all  the  steamboat 
lines  from  Chicago  to  Bufifalo  and  the  Upper  Lakes,  the  harbors 
on  these  islands  are  stopping- points  for  the  boats,  and  a  profit- 
able trade  is  conducted  in  furnishing  the  necessary  supplies  of 
wood,  etc. 

The  settlement  of  Mormons  on  the  Big  Beaver  Island  has 
recently  been  abandoned,  and  the  people  have  mostly  dispersed. 

We  next  arrive  at  Manistee,  a  small  but  important  settlement 
at  iJie  mouth  of  the  Manistee  River.    The  harbor  is  a  natural 


BAYS,    UIVEKS,    ETC.,    OF    MICHIGAN. 


131 


one,  but  requires  some  improyemcnt.  A  large  trade  is  carried 
on  with  Chicago  in  lumber.  The  river  passes  through  a  flno 
pine  district,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  State. 

The  next  point  of  importance  is  the  mouth  of  the  P^re  Mar" 
qwtte  River.  Here  is  the  terminus  of  the  proposed  railrood 
from  Flint,  in  Genesee  County,  connecting  with  Detroit  by  the 
Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Railway,  a  distance  of  about  180  miles. 
The  harbor  is  very  superior,  and  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
I  is  well  adapted  for  settlement.  About  10  miles  in  the  interior 
is  situated  one  of  the  most  compact  and  extensive  tracts  of  pine 
I  timber  on  the  western  coast. 

About  forty  miles  south  of  this,  in  the  couity  of  Oceana,  a 
Ismail  village  is  located  at  the  mouth  of  White  River.  The 
Iharbor  here  is  also  a  natural  one,  and  the  region  is  settled  to 
Iconsiderable  extent  by  farmers.  Lumber  is,  however,  the  prin- 
cipal commodity,  and  the  trade  is  principally  with  the  Chicago 
irket. 

The  next  point  is  Muskegon  ^  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskegon 
tiver.  It  is  supported  principally  by  the  large  lumber  region 
of  the  interior.  Numerous  steam  saw-mills  are  now  in  active 
[)peration  here,  giving  the  place  an  air  of  life  and  activity. 
The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  lake,  and  is  >\t  present 
ecessible  for  all  the  vessels  trading  between  Muskegon  and 
icago.  A  small  steamboat  runs  up  the  Muskegon  River  about 
forty  miles  to  JVewaygOt  the  capital  of  Newaygo  County.  This 
HUage  is  in  a  beautiful  region  of  farming  country,  and  also  in 
|lo8e  proximity  to  the  extensive  pineries  stretching  along  the 
|alley  of  the  river.  One  of  the  largest  lumber  mills  in  the 
[tate,  running  114  saws,  is  in  operation  at  this  place.  About 
BTenty  millions  of  feet  of  lumber  are  manufactured  annually 
this  river. 

Grand  Haven,  Ottawa  Co.,  Mich  ,  is  situated  on  both  sides 
Grand  River,  at  its  entrance  into  Lake  Michigan,  here  eighty 
les  wide ;  on  the  opposite  side  lies  Milwaukee,  Wis.  The  dif- 
ent  settlements  comprising  Grand  Haven  contain  about  6,000 
ibitants.    Here  is  a  court-house  and  jail,  two  churches,  six 


** 


132 


BAYS,    RIVERS,    BTC,    OF    MICHIGAN. 


!i;,' 


hotels  and  taverns,  a  number  of  stores ;  eight  large  steam  saw- 
mills, pail  and  tub  factories,  a  foundry  and  machine  shop,  and 
other  manufacturing  establishments. 

Steamers  run  from  Grand  Ha"ven  to  Chicago,  to  Milwaukee, 
and  also  to  other  ports  on  Lake  Michigan.  Steamers  also  mn 
from  Grand  Haven  to  Grand  Rapids,  about  forty  miles  up  the 
river,  bringing  down  immense  quantities  of  lumber  and  produce. 
Above  Grand  Rapids,  where  is  a  fall  of  twenty- two  feet,  steam- 
ers run  to  Lyons,  about  sixty  miles  distant,  where  steamboat 
navigation  ceases. 

The  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Railroad,  when  finished,  will 
extend  from  Detroit  to  Grand  Haven,  185  miles,  running  for 
most  of  the  distance  through  a  rich  section  of  country.  It  wiO 
form  a  through  line  of  travel,  by  means  of  steamers  across  the 
lake  to  Milwaukee,  and  through  Wisconsin  to  the  Mississippi 
River  and  the  Far  West. 

Grand  Rapids,  situated  forty  miles  above  Grand  HaYen,| 
although  in  her  teensy  can  truly  assume  the  title  of  a  city. 
With  a  busy,  enterprising  population  of  more  tian  8,000,  and 
rapidly  increasing,  possessing  a  water-power  unequaled  by  any , 
in  the  State,  alSbrding  to  manufacturers  and  others  temptiii([{ 
inducements ;  surrounded  by  a  new,  fertile,  and  rapidly  impror- 
ing  country,  it  can  not  fail  shortly  to  become  one  of  the  moet  { 
prominent  cities  in  the  Northwest. 

"  Extensive  and  inexhaustible  beds  of  gypsum,  a  valuable 
almost  indispensable  soil-fertilizer  in  any  country^  are  found  I 
near  this  place.     Building  stone  of  good  quality,  easily  attaint' | 
ble,  as  T^  ell  as  other  desirable  building  materials,  are  abundant,! 
and  much  in  requisition,  of  which  fact  there  is  sufficient  satis* I 
factory  evidence  in  the  noble  structures  to  be  seen  here,  botij 
of  stores  and  dwellings,  many  of  which  evince  good  tasto 
correct  architectural  judgment.    I  waa  credibly  informed  that! 
there  were  mercantile  houses,  in  this  remote  city,  doing  busineaj 
to  the  extent  of  one  to  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  each,  yearj 
l.y.     It  is  confidently  expected  that  the  Detroit  and  Milwauksij 
Railroad  will  be  completed  and  in  operation  from  Detroit  to  tlii)| 
place  during  the  summer  of  1857.    This  road  extends  throum 
an  exceedingly  rich  agricultural  section ;  that  portion  lying  ^1 
twee.n  the  cistern  £>und  of  Shiawassa  County  and  Gravl 


Jumber  of  hi 
jumber  of  ha 
Number  of  h^ 
vessels  .  ] 
f^erage  load! 
fnnoai  numbl 

Ijerfromr 


^ 


BAYS,    illVERS,    KTC,    OF   MICHIGAy. 


133 


Rapids  may  eafely  be  classed  as  the  very  best  in  the  whole 
State,  and  I  will  venture  the  assertion  that  a  very  few  years 
only  will  be  reqidred  to  demonstrate  the  truth  of  this,  in  the 
large  amount  of  its  surplus  products  seeking  a  market  eastward, 
through  the  agency  of  this  railroad." 

The  Grand  River  Pineries. — **  Up  in  the  northern  part  of 
the  Grand  River  valley,  and  along  and  beyond  the  Muskegon 
liiTer,  an  immense  amount  of  pine  timber  is  to  be  found.  The 
mills  upon  the  Muskegon  River  are,  most  of  them,  of  later  date 
than  those  of  Grand  River,  and  some  of  them  are  the  finest  in 
the  world.  One  of  the  mills  upon  Grand  River  is  so  complete  an 
automatic  machine  that  it  draws  up  and  arranges  its  own  logs, 
feeds  them  to  any  required  thickness  of  boards,  gigs  back  and 
I  sets  itself,  carries  off  and  piles  up  the  lumber,  registers  the 
I  number  of  boards  out — all  by  the  aid  of  the  most  simple  and 
I  beautiful  machinery. 

'*  At  a  low  estimatd,"  says  the  Grand  Rapids  Enquirer ^  from 
I  which  we  gather  these  facts,  **  the  value  of  this  trade  foots  up 
between  five  and  seven  millions  of  dollars.  There  is  every  pros- 
pect that  these  figures  will  be  largely  increased  in  ensuing 
[years,  there  being  thousands  of  acres  of  better  pine  lands  than 
Ihave  yet  been  cut,  yet  lying  untouched,  north  of  these  two 
Irivers." 

The  following  table  shows,  to  some  extent,  the  amount  of 
{lumber  business  now  done  on  the  Grand  and  Muskegon  rivers 
id  their  tributaries : 

^mber  of  saw-mills  on  Orand  and  Muskegon  rivers  and  their 

tributaries 116 

(These  mills  run  from  1  to  180  saws  each.) 

Imount  of  lumber  cut  per  year—feet. 178,000,000 

«       lath  *'  "  "     48,000,000 

"       staves      "  "  "     ^,000,000 

shingles    "  *'         "     200,000,000 

pumber  of  hands  constantly  employed  in  mills  ...  1,160 

jumber  of  hands  employed  in  pineries  in  winter ...  3 ,400 

iiumber  of  hands  employed  in  rafting  and  loading 

vessels 600 

leverage  load  of  vessels,  feet  . . , 80,000 

^nnual  number  of  arrivals  of  vessels  carrying  lu:;;i- 

ber  from  Grand  and  Muskegon  rivers 1,920 

12 


Sff*' 


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ft 


il 


I 


>r    )« 


DETROIT. 


The  City  of  Detroit,  a  port  of  entry,  and  the  great  com* 
mercial  mart  of  the  State,  is  favorably  situated  in  N.  lat.  42^ 
20',  W.  long.  82°  68',  on  a  river  or  strait  of  the  same  name, 
elevated  some  30  or  40  feet  above  its  surface,  being  seven  miles 
below  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  Clair  and  twenty  above  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  where  it  enters  into  Lake  Erie.  It  extends 
f^'T*  the  distance  of  upward  of  a  mile  upon  the  southwest  bank 
of  the  river,  where  the  stream  is  three  fourths  of  a  mile  in 
width.  The  principal  public  and  private  offices  and  wholesale 
stores  are  located  on  Jefferson  and  Woodward  avenues,  which 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  the  latter  running  to  the 
water's  edge.  There  may  usually  be  seen  a  great  number  of 
steamboats,  propellers,  and  sail  vessels  of  a  large  ilass,  loading 
or  unloading  their  rich  cargoes,  destined  for  Eastern  mar- 
kets or  for  the  Great  West,  giving  an  animated  appearance  to 
this  place,  which  is  aptly  called  the  City  of  the  Straits.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1815,  being  now  divided  into  nine  wards,  and 
governed  by  a  mayor,  recorder,  and  board  of  aldermen.  Detroit 
contains  the  old  State-house,  from  the  dome  of  which  a  fine 
view  is  obtained  of  the  city  and  vicinity ;  the  City  Hall,  Ma- 
sonic Hall,  Firemen's  Hall,  Mechanics  Hall,  Odd  Fellows  Hali, 
the  Young  Men's  Society  Building,  two  Market  Buildings, 
twenty  churches,  ten  hotels,  besides  a  number  of  taverns;  a 
United  States  custom-house  and  post-office,  a  theater,  a  mu- 
seum, two  orphan  asylums,  four  banks,  and  a  savings'  fund 
institute,  besides  a  great  number  of  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. There  are  also  several  extensive  ship-yards  and 
machine  shops,  where  are  built  and  repaired  vessels  of  almost 
every  description.  The  population  in  1850  was  21,801;  io 
1866,48,000. 


DETROIT. 


135 


Detroit  may  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  favored  of  all 
the  Western  cities  of  tlie  Union.  It  was  first  settled  by  the 
French  explorers  as  early  as  1701,  as  A  military  and  fur  trad- 
ing pore.  It  changed  its  garrison  and  military  goTernment  in 
1700  for  a  British  military  commander  and  troops,  enduring 
nnder  the  latter  regime  a  series  of  Indian  sieges,  assaults,  and 
petty  but  vigilant  and  harassing  warfare,  conducted  against 
the  English  garrison  by  the  celebrated  Indian  warrior  Pontiac. 
Detroit  subsequently  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  American 
revolutionists;  but  on  the  16th  August,  1812,  it  was  surren- 
dered by  Gen.  Hull,  of  the  United  States  army,  to  Gen.  Brock, 
commander  of  the  British  forces.  In  1813  it  was  again  sur- 
rendered to  the  Americans. 

The  railroads  finished  and  in  progress  of  construction  in 
Michigan  afiford  facilities  of  an  immense  importance  to  Detroit, 
and  the  State  at  large.  The  following  lines  diverge  frohi 
Detroit : 

1.  The  Detroit t  Monroe  and  Toledo  Railroad f  62  miles  in 
length,  connecting  with  the  Michigan  Southern  Railroad  at 
Monroe,  and  with  other  roads  at  Toledo. 

2.  The  Michigan  Central  Railroad^  282  miles  in  length, 
extends  to  Chicago,  111.  This  important  road,  running  across 
the  State  from  east  to  west,  connects  at  Michigan  City,  Ind. , 
with  the  New  Albany  and  Salem  Railroad — thus  forming  a  di- 
rect line  of  travel  to  Louisville,  St.  Louis,  etc.,  as  well  as  Chi- 
cago and  the  Far  West.    * 

I 

3.  The  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Railroad  runs  through  a 
rich  section  of  country  to  Grand  Haven,  on  Lake  Michigan, 
opposite  Milwaukee,  Wis  ,  and  will  soon  be  completed. 

4.  The  Detroit  and  Port  Huron  Railroad  is  also  under  con- 
struction, which,  when  completed,  will  connect  Lake  Huron  by 
rail  with  the  valley  of  the  Ohio  River. 

5.  The  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada  has  its  terminus 
at  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit,  the  two  places  being  connected  by 
three  steam  ferries — ^thus  affording  a  speedy  line  of  travel 
through  Canada,  and  thence  to  Eastern  cities  of  the  United  States. 


136 


DETROIT   RIVER. 


The  Detroit  Rivkr,  or  Strait^  is  a  noble  stream,  through 
which  flow  the  surplus  waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes  into  Lake 
Erie.  It  is  27  miles  in  length,  and  from  half  a  mile  to  two 
miles  in  width,  forming  the  boundary  between  the  United 
States  and  Canada.  It  has  a  perceptible  current,  and  is  navif'a- 
ble  for  vessels  of  the  largest  class.  Large  quantities  of  fish  are 
annually  taken  in  the  river,  and  the  sportsman  usually  finds 
an  abundance  of  wild  ducks,  which  breed  in  great  numbers  in 
the  marshes  bordering  some  of  the  islands  and  harbors  of  the 
coast. 

There  are  altogether  seventeen  islands  in  the  river.  The 
names  of  these  are,  Clay,  Celeron,  Hickory,  Sugar,  Bois 
Blanc,  Ella,  Fox,  Rock,  Grosse  Isle,  Stoney,  Fighting,  Tur- 
key, Mammy  Judy,  Grassy,  Mud,  Belle  or  Hog,  and  lie  la 
Peche.  The  two  latter  are  situated  a  few  miles  above  Detroit, 
near  the  entrance  to  Lake  St.  Clair,  where  large  quantities  of 
white-fish  are  annually  taken. 

Ile  la.  Peche,  attached  to  Canada,  was  the  home  of  the 
celebrated  Indian  chief  Pontiac,  Parkman,  in  his  "  History 
of  the  Conspiracy  of  Pontiac,"  says :  *♦  Pontiac,  the  Satan  of  this 
forest-paradise,  was  accustomed  to  spend  the  early  part  of  the 
summer  upon  a  small  island  at  the  opening  of  Lake  St.  Clair." 
Another  author  says :  **  The  king  and  lord  of  all  this  country 
lived  in  no  royal  state.  His  cabin  was  a  small,  oven-shaped 
structure  of  bark  and  rushes.  Here  he  dwelt  with  his  squaws 
and  children ;  and  here,  doubtless,  he  might  often  have  been 
seen  carelessly  reclining  his  naked  form  on  a  rush-mat  or  a 
bear-skin,  like  an  ordinary  Indian  warrior." 

The  other  fifteen  islands,  most  of  them  umall,  are  situated 
below  Detroit,  within  the  first  twelve  miles  of  the  river  after 
entering  it  from  Lake  Erie,  the  largest  of  which  is  Grosse 
Isle,  attached  to  Michigan,  on  which  are  a  number  of  exten- 
sive and  well -cultivated  farms.  This  island  has  become  a  very 
popular  retreat  for  citizens  of  Detroit  during  the  heat  of  sum- 
mer, there  being  here  located  good  public  houses  for  the  m- 
commodation  of  visitors. 


DETROIT   RIVER. 


137 


Father  Hennepin,  who  was  passenger  on  the  "  Griffin,"  the 
first  vessel  that  crossed  Lake  Erie,  in  1679,  in  his  description 
of  the  scenery  along  the  route,  says :  "  The  islands  are  the 
finest  in  the  world ;  the  strait  is  finer  than  Niagara ;  the  banks 
are  vast  meadows,  and  the  prospect  is  terminated  with  so-  e 
hills  covered  with  vineyards,  trees  bearing  good  fmit,  groves 
and  forests  so  well  dispoced  that  one  would  think  that  Nature 
alone  could  not  have  made,  without  the  help  of  art,  so  chiirming 
a  prospect." 


COMPARATIVE  PUKITT  OF  DETROIT  RIVER  WATER. 

The  following  Table  shows  the  solid  matter  in  a  gallon  of 
water,  taken  from  Lakes  and  Rivers  *  a  different  cities : 

Grs.  soliil  ninltnr.  Grii.  •oliil  matter. 

Albany,  Hudson  River 6.820  C  Hemlock  L.  1.880 

Troy,  Mohawk  River 7.830  Rochester,  N.  Y.  <  Lake  Ont . .  4.160 

Boston,  Cochituate  Lake 1.850  C  Genesee  R.11.210 

New  York,  Croton  River. ....  6.99S     Detr*      Detroit  River 5.722 

Broolclyn,  L.  I.  Ponds 2.867     Cleveland,  Lake  Erie 5.000 

Philadelphia,  Schuylkill  R. . .  4.260  Montreal,  St.  Lawrence  R. . . .  5.000 

Cincinnati,  Ohio  River 6.786 

Of  the  Detroit  River  water,  Prof.  Douglass,  in  his  report  of 
the  analysis,  says :  "  In  estimating  the  value  cf  your  city  water, 
as  compared  with  other  cities,  due  allowance  must  be  made  for 
the  fact,  that  the  total  solid  matter  is  materially  increased  by 
the  presence  of  silica,  alumina,  and  iron,  elements  that  can 
produce  little  or  no  injury ;  while  the  chlorides,  much  the  most 
injurious  compounds,  are  entirely  absent.  The  presence  of 
8uch  large  quantities  of  silica  and  iron  is  accounted  for  by  the 
fact,  that  Lakes  Superior  and  Huron  are  formed,  for  the  most 
part,  in  a  basin  of  ferruginous  sandstone  and  igneous  rock." 

12* 


m 


138 


FISHERIES. 


LAKE  AND  RIVER  FISHERIES. 

« 

"  The  early  French  explorers  of  the  Upper  iid,Kes,  in  1615, 
make  mention  of  the  white  fish  and  trout  as  being  luxuriotis, 
and  much  used  for  the  sustenance  of  life  by  the  sons  of  the 
forest.  From  the  time  civilization  dawned  upon  the  shores  of 
the  lakes,  the  French  settlers  supplied  themselyes  with  them ; 
and  during  the  war  of  1812,  they  were  found  of  substantial 
benefit  to  the  suidiers  in  appeasing  their  hunger,  for  the  want 
of  other  supplies. 

"Previous  to  the  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal,  salt  was 
mostly  transported  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  thence  up  the 
lakes,  and  obtained  only  at  enormous  prices.  After  the  canal 
was  completed,  in  1827,  it  became  comparatively  cheap,  and 
the  fisheries  were  made  profitable.  In  1830,  emigration  to 
Michigan  rapidly  commenced,  and  increased  to  such  a  degree 
in  1834,  that  the  new-comers  found  it  difficult  to  purchase  pro- 
duce, on  account  of  the  scarcity,  as  nearly  every  thing  con- 
sumed was  imported  from  sister  States.  This  caused  a  great 
consumption  of  fish,  and  gave  birth  to  the  extension  of  river 
and  lake  fisheries. 

"  From  this  time  the  business  increased,  and  several  grounds 
were  cleared  on  the  St.  Clair  River,  and  as  the  market  increased 
they  were  extended  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Huron.  Several 
houses  in  Detroit  became  extensively  engaged  in  the  business, 
employing  vessels  exclusively  in  the  trade.  The  American  Fur 
Company  also  engaged  In  it ;  and,  in  1841,  two  schooners  were 
taken  over  the  falls  at  the  Saut  Ste  Marie  into  Lake  Superior, 
for  the  purpose  of  fishing  on  that  lake. 

**  There  are  a  great  variety  of  fish  in  the  lakes  besides  white 
fish  and  trout.  Lake  Superior  abounds  vrith  the  siskowit,  a 
delicious  fish,  weighing  from  three  to  ten  pounds.  They  are 
excfcddingly  fat,  and  when  tryed  will  yield  25  per  cent,  of  oil. 
Sturgeon  weighing  upward  of  100  pounds  have  been  taken; 
trout,  60  pounds ;  maskalonee,  40  pounds ;  pickerel,  16  pounds; 
mullet,  10  pounds;  bill-fish,  six  pounds;  also  cat-fish,  her- 
rings, eels,  etc.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  and  all 
the  streams  empvjylug  into  Lake  Superior,  large  quantities  of 
small  speckled,  or  brook-trout,  are  taken. 

*♦  In  1840  there  were  35.000  barrels  of  fish  of  various  kinds 
packed,  and  it  is  estimated  that  the  quantity  now  annually 
taken  in  American  waters  can  not  be  less  than  100,000  bar- 
rels, besides  what  find  their  way  to  the  Canadian  markets. 
Detroit  is  the  most  extensive  mart,  where  large  quantities  are 
sold  for  home  consumption ;  and  market  is  found  for  them  in 
New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  other  Western 
States."— See  «*  Sketches  of  the  City  of  Detroit,"  pub.  in  1855. 


STEAMBOAT   ROUTE, 


139 


The  WMte  Fish  is  regarded  as  the  prince  of  fresh-water  fish 
Henry  R.  Schoolcraft,  in  his  poem,  **  The  White  Fish,"  says: 

**  All  fMenda  to  good  living  by  tnreeo  ''nd  dlah, 
Concur  in  exalting  this  prince  of  a  noh ; 
So  fine  in  a  platter,  to  tempting  a  fry, 
So  rich  on  a  gridiron,  so  sweet  in  a  pie ; 
That  even  before  it  the  salmon  must  fail, 
And  that  mighty  bonne-brntche.  of  the  land-beaver's  tail. 
♦  ♦  ♦  ♦  ♦ 

'Tls  a  morsel  alike  for  the  gourmand  or  faster, 
While,  white  as  a  tablet  of  pure  alabaster ! 
Its  beauty  or  flavor  no  person  can  doubt. 
When  seen  in  the  water  or  tasted  without; 
And  all  the  dispute  that  opinion  ere  makes 
Of  this  king  of  lake  fishes,  this  *  deer  of  the  lakes,^* 
Regard  not  its  choiceness  to  ponder  or  sup, 
But  the  best  mode  of  dressing  and  serving  It  up. 
«  ♦  ♦        "       ♦  °      » 

Here  too,  might  a  fancy  to  descant  Inclined, 
Contemplate  the  love  that  pertains  to  the  kind, 
And  bring  up  the  red  man,  in  fanclAil  strains, 
To  prove  its  creation  from  feminine  bralns-'t 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM 
Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Cleveland,  Ohio 0 

Point  Pelde  Is.,  and  Light    60 

BarPoint,  C.  W 97 

Bois  Blanc  Is.  Light,  >  ^ 

Detroit  River,  5 

Maiden,  C.  W 101 

I,  Gibraltar,  Mich 

Grosse  Isle,  " 102 

Mama  Juba  Is.  and  Light  108 

Wyandotte,  Mich 109 

Fish  Island  Light Ill 

Fighting  Island 112 

Windsor,  C.  W 119 

Detroit 120 

Fare,  $3  00. 


CLEVELAND  TO  DETROIT. 

Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Detroit,  lVI[ich 0 

Windsrr,  C.  W 1 

Fighti  ig  Island 8 

Fish  Island 9 

Wyandot' cy  Mich 11 

Mama  Juba  Is.  and  Light  12 

Grosse  Isle 13 

Gibraltar,  Mich 

Maiden,  C.  W 19 

Bois  Blanc  Is.  Light,  ^  .^ 
Lake  Erie,                  5   *  * 

Bar  Point,  C.  W 28 

Point  Pel6e  Island CO 

Cleveland 120 

Usual  Time,  7  hours. 


*  A  translation  of  Ad-dik-JcMm-mnifj,  the  Indian  name  for  this  fish. 
t  Vide  **  Indian  Tales  and  Legends.'* 


m 


» 


ir.  'SI 

^|f  ill 


140  STEAIVJBOAT    ROUTES. 

CLEVELAND   AND   DKTIlOIl'   STEAMERii — DAILY. 

May  Queen,  688  tons Capt.  E.  Vesie 

Ocean,  900     *'  "     C.  C.  Blodgett. 

STEAMERS  EUNNING  FROM  CLEVELAND  AND  DETROIT  TO 
DIFFERENT  PORTS  ON  THE  UPPER  LAKES. 

lake    superior     line,    stopping     at    MACKINAC    AND    SAUT 

8TE  MARIE. 

Steamer  Illinois,  926  tons Capt.  Wilson. 

"       North  Star,  1,106  tons *'      B.  G.  Sweet. 

**       Planet,  1,164  tons **      Nicholson. 

Propeller  Manhattan,  320  tons "      John  Spalding. 

"        Mineral  Rock,  560  *•    . **     John  Fraser. 

**        Gen.   Taylor,  462    " "      R.  Rider. 

•  

GREEN  BAY  LINE,  STOPPING  AT  MACKINAC,  RUNS  BETWEEN 
BUFFALO,  CLEVELAND,  DETROIT,  AND  GREEN  BAT. 

Steamer  Michigan,  642  tons .Capt.  A.  Stewart 

«♦        Sultana,    650    "     "         Mead 

DETROIT   TO   SAGINAW   CITY. 

Steamer  Sam  Ward,  433  tons Capt.  H.  Fish 

running   from   DETROIT. 

Steamer  Ploughboy,  300  tons,  Capt.  D.  Rowan,  runs  to  Port 

Samia  and  Goderich,  C  W. 
Steamer  Mazeppa,  250  tons,  runs  to  Goderich  and  Sangeen 

DETROIT  TO  PORT   HURON   AND   FORRESTVILLE. 

Steamer  Forrester Capt.  J.  Robertson. 

"      Forest  Queen "    S.  D.  Woodworth. 

Steamer  Ariel,  165  tons,  runs  to  New  Baltimore,  Mich. 

*<     Albion,  182  tons,  runs  to  Mt.  Clemens. 


AND    SAUT 


una  to  Port 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTES  FROM   DETROIT  TO  TOLEDO, 

SANDUSKY,  ETC. 


DETROIT  AND   TOLEDO   STEAMBOAT   LINE. 

Arrow,  373  tons Capt.  J.  W.  Keith. 

Dart,     297    «    "     S.  Dustin. 

One  of  the  above  steamers  runs  daily  to  and  from  Toledo, 
stopping  at  Wyandotte,  Trenton,  Monroe,  and  r.ther  ports  on 
the  Michigan  shore.  Distance  from  Detroit  to  Toledo,  by  steam- 
boat route,  70  miles. 

DETROIT   TO   SANDUSKY. 

The  steamer  Bay  City,  479  tons,  Capt.  J.  M.  Lundy,  runs 
from  Detroit  to  Sandusky,  Ohio,  connecting  with  railroad,  lines 
running  to  Newark,  Columbus,  Cincinnati,  etc. 

Wyandotte,  ten  miles  below  Detroit,  is  a  new  and  flourish- 
ing manufacturing  village,  where  are  located  the  most  extensiYe 
iron  works  in  Michigan. 

Trenton,  six  miles  farther,  is  the  next  steamboat  landing. 

The  City  of  Monroe,  capital  of  Monroe  Co.,  Mich.,  is  situated 
CQ  both  sides  of  the  river  Raisin,  three  miles  above  its  entrance 
into  Lake  Erie,  and  about  40  miles  from  Detroit.  It  is  con- 
nected with  the  lake  by  a  ship  canal,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Mkhighn  Southern  RaUroad,  which  extends  west,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Northern  Indiana  Railroad,  to  Chicago,  111.  The 
town  contains  about  5,000  inhabitants,  a  court-house  and  jail, 
a  United  States  land-office,  eight  churches,  several  public- 
houses,  and  a  number  of  large  stores  of  different  kinds.  Here 
are  two  extensive  piers,  forming  an  outport  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  where  the  steamers  land  and  receive  passengers ;  the 
railroad  track  running  to  the  landing.  A  plank-road  also  runs 
from  the  outport  to  the  city,  which  is  an  old  and  interesting 
locality,  being  formerly  called  French  town,  where  a  sanguin- 
ary battle  was  fought  during  the  war  of  1812.  The  Detroit^ 
Monroe  and  Toledo  Railroad,  just  completed,  passes  through 


142 


ToI.EPO. 


f'l^    ' 


this  city;  it  bemg  alxut  40  miles  to  Detroit  and  22  miles  to  | 
Toledo  by  railroad  rout).    This  line  of  travel  will  be  extendi 
south  to   Cincinnati.     Steamers  run  from  Detroit  to  Toledo, 
stopping  at  Monroe  daily  during  the  season  of  navigation. 

The  City  of  Sandusky,  capital  of  Erie  Co.,  Ohifk,  is  a  port 
of  entry  and  flourishiUj^  place  of  trade.  It  is  advantageously 
situated  on  Sandusky  Bay,  three  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  in  N. 
lat.  41°  27',  W.  long.  82^  45'.  The  bay  is  about  20  miles  long, 
and  five  or  six  miles  in  width,  forming  a  capacious  and  excel- 
lent harbor,  into  which  steamers  and  vessels  of  all  sizes  can 
enter  with  safety.  The  average  depth  of  water  is  from  ten  to 
twelve  feet.  The  city  is  built  on  a  bed  of  limestone,  producing 
a  good  building  material.  It  contains  about  10,000  inhabitants, 
a  court-house  and  jail,  eight  churches,  two  banks,  several  well- 
kept  hotels,  and  a  number  of  large  stores  and  manufacturing 
establishments  of  different  kinds.  This  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Mad  River  and  Lake  Erie  Railroad,  running  to  Dayton,  153 
miles,  and  the  Sandusky,  Mansfield  and  Newark  Railroad,  110 
miles  in  length.  The  Cleveland  and  Toledo  Railroad,  northern 
division,  also  runs  through  Sandusky,  aflfording  altogether  great 
facilities  to  travelers,  in  connection  with  a  line  of  steamers 
running  to  Detroit,  Cleveland,  and  Buffalo 

The  City  of  Toledo  is  situated  on  the  Maumee  River,  four 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  ten  miles  from  the  Turtle  Island 
Light,  at  the  outlet  of  the  Maumee  Bay  into  Lake  Erie.  The 
harbor  is  good,  and  the  navigable  channel  from  Toledo  to  the 
lake  is  of  sufficient  depth  for  all  steamers  or  sail  vessels  navi- 
gating the  lakes,  with  the  exception  of  a  short  distance  through 
the  bay,  which  requires  deepening  from  one  to  two  feet.  Toledo 
is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  run- 
ning through  the  Maumee  and  Wabash  valleys,  and  communi- 
cating with  the  Ohio  River  at  Evansville,  a  distance  of  471 
miles ;  also  of  the  Miami  and  Erie  Canal,  which  branches 
from  the  above  canal  68  miles  west  of  Toledo,  and  runs 
southwardly  through  the  Miami  Valley  in  Western  Ohio,  and 
communicates  with  the  Ohio  River  at  Cincinnati. 


TOLKnO. 


143 


|d  22  miles  to 
be  extende<i 
•it  to  Toledo,! 
igation. 
hihf  is  a  port 
vantageousl)^ 
:e  Erie,  in  X, 
*0  miles  long, 
IS  and  excel- 
all  sizes  can 
s  from  ten  to 
ne,  producing 
)  inhabitants, 
.  several  well- 
manufacturing 
•minus  of  the 
Dayton,  153 
Railroad,  Hi] 
Dad,  northern 
ogether  great 
of  steamers 

3  River,  four 
'urtle  Island 
)  Erie.    TLe 
roledo  to  the 
vessels  navi- 
ince  through 
eet.    Toledo 
Canal,  run- 
id  communi- 
ance  of  471 
ih  branches 
,  and  runs 
1  Ohio,  and 


«« The  railroads  diverging  from  Toledo  are  the  Michigan  Smi- 
^hem  and  JVorthern  Indiana  Railroad,  running  through  the 
eoathcrn  counties  of  Michigan  and  the  northern  counties  of 
Indiana,  and  making  its  western  terminus  at  Chicago,  Illinois, 
jta  distance  of  243  miles;  also,  the  Air  Line  Railroad,  run- 
ning due  west  from  Toledo,  through  Northwestern  Ohio  and  the 
northern  counties  of  Indiana  to  Goshen,  a  distance  of  110  miles, 
where  it  connects  with  the  Northern  Indiana  Railroad,  running 
to  Chicago;  also  the  terminus  of  the  Jackson  Brcnch  of  the 
Michigan  Southern  Road,  and  the  Detroit,  Monroe  and  Toleclo 
Railroad. 

"It  is  also  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Toitdo,  JVabanh 
and  Western  Railroad,  running  in  a  southwesterly  direction 
through  the  Maumee  and  Wabash  valleys,  crossing  the  eastern 
line  of  the  State  of  Illinois,  about  125  miles  south  of  Chicago, 
and  continuing  in  a  southwesterly  course  through  Danville, 
Springfield,  Jacksonville,  Naples,  etc.,  in  Central  Illinois,  to  the 
Mississippi  River,  and  connecting  with  the  Hannibal  and  St. 
Joseph  Road,  which  stretches  nearly  due  west  through  the  State 
of  Missouri  to  St.  Joseph,  on  the  Missouri  River.  It  also,  in 
connection'  with  other  roads,  affords  a  through  line  of  travel  to 
St.  Louis.  The  Dayton  and  Michigan  Railroad  (to  be  com- 
pleted the  present  year),  which  connects  Toledo  with  Cincin- 
nati, is  much  the  shortest  railroad  line  connecting  Lake  Erie 
with  the  Ohio  River.  Besides  the  above  important  roads,  the 
Cleveland  and  Toledo  Railroad  terminates  here. 

"Toledo  is  the  nearest  point  for  the  immense  country  trav- 
ersed by  these  canals  and  railroads,  where  a  transfer  can  be 
made  of  freight  to  the  more  cheap  transportation  by  the  lakes, 
and  thence  through  the  Erie  Canal,  Welland  Canal,  or  Oswego 
Canal,  to  the  sea-board.  It  is  not  merely  the  country  traversed 
by  these  canals  and  railroads  that  send  their  products,  and  re- 
ceive their  merchandise,  through  Toledo,  but  many  portions  of 
the  States  of  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Missouri,  and  Iowa  find 
Toledo  the  cheapest  and  most  expeditious  lake-port  for  the  in- 
terchange and  transfer  of  their  products  and  merchandise." 


m 


This  city  is  the  capital  of  Lucas  County,  Ohio,  where  is  situ- 
ated a  court-house  and  jail,  several  fine  churches  and  school 
edifices,  six  hotels,  and  a  great  number  of  stores  and  store- 
houses, also  several  extensive  manufacturing  establishments. 

The  population  of  Tol  do  in  1850  was  about  4,000,  and  now 
it  is  supposed  to  contain  12,000  inhabitants,  and  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  wealth  and  numbers.  The  shipping  interest  is  in- 
"ireasing,  here  being  transhipped  annually  an  enormous  amount 


k'f^ 


ifw 


if 


i  f)  f 


m 


m 


144 


MAUMEE   illVER. 


II 


of  grain,  and  other  kinds  of  agricultui'M  product  of  the  great 
West ;  it  being,  no  doubt,  destined,  like  Chicago,  to  export  direct 
to  European  ports,  lying  as  it  does  on  the  direct  railroad  nnd 
steamboat  route  from  St.  Louis  to  Montreal. 

At  this  time  there  are  in  process  of  erection  in  Tolodo 
many  handsome  dwellings,  numerous  handsome  blocks  of  stores, 
a  post-office  and  custom-house  by  the  general  government,  and 
a  first-class  hotel ;  these  two  latter  buildings,  from  the  plana 
we  have  seen,  would  do  credit  to  any  city,  and  when  completed 
can  be  classed  among  the  most  elegant  structures.  No  city  in 
the  State  can  boast  of  finer  private  residences  than  Toledo ;  and 
the  general  character  of  the  buildings  erected  in  the  past  three 
years  is  substantial  and  elegant. 

Perrysburo,  capital  of  Wood  Co.,  Ohio,  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Maumee  River,  18  miles  above  its  entrance 
into  Maumee  Bay,  the  southern  termination  of  Lake  Eric.  It 
oontafns  a  court-house  and  jail,  four  churches,  20  stores  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  three  steam  saw-mills,  a  tannery,  and  several 
othoT  manufacturing  establishments.  Population  about  1,500. 
Here  is  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  Maumee  River, 
a  fording  thus  far  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  steamers  of  a 
large  class. 

MAUikiEE  City,  capital  of  Lucas  Co.,  Ohio,  and  a  port  of 
entry,  is  situated  on  the  Maumee  River,  opposite  Perrysburg, 
at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  and  at  the  head  of  navigation,  nine 
miles  rbove  Toledo.  A  side  cut  here  connects  the  Wabash  arid 
Erie  Canal  with  the  river  The  Toledo  and  Illinois  Railroad 
also  passes  through  this  place.  It  contains  a  court-house,  five 
churches,  80  stores,  four  flouring-mills,  three  saw-mills,  one 
oil- mill,  and  other  manufacturing  establishments  propelled  by 
water-power,  the  supply  being  here  almost  inexhaustible. 

Maumee  River  rises  in  the  northeast  part  of  Indiana,  and 
flowing  northeast  enters  Lake  Erie,  through  Maumee  Bay.  It 
is  about  100  TQiles  long,  navigable  18  miles,  and  furnishing  an 
extensive  watc  .^  power  throughout  its  course. 


TRIP  FROM  BUFFALO  TO  DETROIT-DIRECT. 


CoMMODioui  Bteamers  of  about  two  thousand  tons  burden 
leave  Buffalo  direct  for  Detroit,  daily,  Sundays  excepted,  at  ter 
o'clock  P.M.,  or  on  the  arrival  of  the  Eastern  express  train  cf 
cars,  leaving  Albany  the  same  morning ;  also,  connects  with 
cars  from  Niagara  Falls,  etc. 

On  leaving  the  wharf  at  Buffalo,  the  steamers  usually  run 
direct  for  Long  Point  on  the  Canada,  or  north  shore  of  Lake 
Erie,  proceeding  for  most  of  the  distance  in  British  waters,  to 
the  mouth  of  Detroit  River. 

Long  Point,  65  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  long  strip  of  land,, 
nearly  20  miles  long  and  from  one  to  three  miles  in  width, 
covered  for  the  most  part  -^dth  a  stunted  growth  of  forest  trees. 
It  was  formerly  a  peninsula,  running  out  from  the  land  in  an 
easterly  direction,  near.y  half  way  across  the  lake;  but  the- 
waters  having  made  a  wide  breach  across  its  western  extremity,, 
has  converted  it  into  an  island.    There  is  an  important  light- 
house on  the  east  end  to  guide  the  mariner  on  his  passage - 
through  Lake  Erie,  here  about  40  miles  wide,  and  where  is 
found  the  greatest  depth  of  water.    To  this  Point  both  shores 
of  the  lake  can  be  seen  in  a  clear  morning  from  the  deck  of  the* 
steamer,  affording  a  most  grand  sight  when  the  sun  rises  on  a 
cloudless  day.    Then  may  usually  been  seen  a  fleet  of  vessels  ^ 
wending  their  way  toward  Buffalo  or  the  mouth  of  the  Welland 
Canal,  through  which  channel  annually  passes  a  great  number - 
of  steam  propellers  and  sail  vessels  on  their  way  to  Lake  Onta-- 
rio  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

Port  CoLBpRifE,  C.  W.,  situated  about  20  miles  west  of 
Buffalo,  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Welland  Canal,  while  Port 
Maitland,  some  20  miles  farther,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Grand  River,  where  is  a  navigable  feeder  communicating  withi 
the  canal,  Unus  affording  two  entrances  to  the  above  canal. 

13 


If '4 


146 


BUFFALO    TO    DETROIT. 


i 

1  •■-'■■  ^-  ■ 


Port  Dover,  about  70  miles  west  of  BuflFalo  and  40  miles 
distant  from  Hamilton  by  proposed  railroad  route,  is  situated 
on  the  north  shore  of  Laks  Erie,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Lynn. 
Here  is  a  good  harbor,  and  the  village  is  a  place  of  growing 
importance,  containing  alK)ut  1,000  inhabitants. 

Port  Ryebse  and  Port  Rowan  are  small  villages  on  the 
Canada  shore,  situated  on  the  bay  formed  by  Long  Point. 
Inland  there  is  to  be  Ibund  a  rich  and  fine  farming  district, 
consisting  of  !^ome  o^  the  best  lands  in  Canada  West. 

The  Said  Hills  ^  immediately  west  of  Long  Point,  are  seen 
for  some  distance  as  the  steamer  pursues  her  onward  course 
toward  Point  aux  Pins^  passing  through  the  widest  part  of  the 
lake,  where  both  shores  are  lost  sight  of  for  a  number  of  miles. 
The  water  usually  presents  a  clear  green  color  in  the  middle, 
but  near  tb  ^  shore  is  more  or  less  tinged  with  muddy  wate^ , 
proceeding  from  the  streams  emptying  into  the  lake. 

Port  Bur  well,  C.  W.,  about  35  miles  west  of  Long  Point, 
is  handsomely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek.  Here  is  a 
light-house  and  (rood  harbor.  A  large  amount  of  lumber  and 
other  products  are  annually  exported  from  this  place  to  Eastern 
markets. 

Port  Stanley,  about  25  miles  farther  west,  is  handsomely 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  Kettle  Creek,  being  in  part  surrounded 
by  high  and  picturesque  hills  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The 
harbor  is  well  protected,  and  much  frequented  by  British  and 
Aik^erican  vessels  running  on  Lake  Erie.  It  is  nine  miles  south 
of  St.  Thomas  and  twenty-four  from  London,  the  chief  town 
of  the  county  of  Middlesex,  for  which  place  it  may  be  consid- 
ered the  out-port.  A  plank-road  runs  between  the  two  places; 
also,  the  London  and  Port  Stanley  Bailroad,  connecting  with 
the  Great  Western  Rail»Tay  of  Canada.  Steamers  run  from 
Port  Stanley  to  Buffalo,  Cleveland,  and  other  ports  on  Lake 
Erie. 

Point  aux  Pins,  o?  Rond*  Eau  (usually  called  by  the 
American  navigators  Round  O),  about  100  miles  west  of  Long 
Point,  is  a  cape  wbicli  projects  from  tho  Canada  shore,  inclosmg 


BUFFALO    TO    DETROIT. 


147 


a  natural  basin  of  about  6,000  acres  in  extent,  with  a  depth 
of  froiD  ten  to  twelve  feet,  thus  forming  an  excellent  and  secure 
harbor,  the  entrance  to  which  has  been  improved  by  the  Cana- 
dian government  by  runmng  out  piers,  etc.  It  is  proposed  to 
construct  a  ship  canal  from  this  port  to  the  St.  Clair  River,  a 
distance  of  about  35  miles  thus  avoiding  the  St.  Clair  Flats. 
Another  Canadian  project  is  to  construct  a  canal  from  Goderio^ 
to  Hamilton,  C.  W.,  about  120  miles  in  length. 

Point  Pblee,  lying  about  40  miles  east  of  the  mouth  of  De- 
troit River,  projects  a  number  of  miles  into  Lake  Erie,  and 
forms,  in  connection  with  the  island  of  Point  Pel6e  and  other 
islands  in  the  vicinity,  the  most  picturesque  portion  of  lake 
eoenery  to  be  met  with  on  this  inland  ssa. 

PoixT  Pelee  Island,  belonging  to  Canada,  is  about  seven 
miles  long  and  two  or  three  miles  in  width.  It  is  inhabited  by 
a  few  settlers.  The  island  is  said  to  abound  with  red  cedar, 
and  possesses  a  fine  limestone  quarry.  A  light-house  is  situ- 
ated on  the  east  side. 

The  steamers  bound  for  Detroit  River  usually  pass  to  the 
north  side  of  Point  Pelee  Island,  and  run  across  Pigeon  Bay 
toward  Bar  Point,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Detroit  River. 
Seyeral  small  islands  are  passed  on  the  south,  called  East  Sis- 
tcTy  Middle  Sister,  and  West  Sister;  also,  in  the  distance, 
may  be  se^i  the  Bass  Islands,  known  as  the  "  North  Bass," 
'<  Middle  Basr>,"  and  "  South  Bass."  On  the  west  side  of  the 
latter  lies  the  secure  harbor  of  Put-in-Bat,  celebrated  as  the 
rendezvous  of  Com.  Perry's  fleet,  before  and  after  the  glorious 
naval  victory  which  he  achieved  over  the  British  fleet,  Septem- 
ber 10th,  1813. 

Detroit  River,  forming  one  of  the  links  between  the  Upper 
and  Lower  Lakes,  is  next  approached,  near  the  mouth  of  which 
may  be  seen  a  light  on  the  Michigan  shore  called  Gibraltar 
Lighty  and  another  light  on  an  island  attached  to  Canada,  the 
steamers  usually  entering  the  river  through  the  east  or  Brit' 
i»h  Channel  of  the  river,  although  vessels  often  pass  through 
the  west  or  American  Channel, 


^Hl 


^  i 


148 


BUFFALO    TO    DETROIT. 


Amherktburg,  C.  W.t  18  miles  below  Detroit,  is  an  old  and 
important  town.  The  situation  is  good ;  the  banks  of  the  riyer, 
both  above  and  below  the  village,  but  particularly  the  latter, 
where  the  river  emerges  into  Lake  Erie,  are  very  beautiful; 
several  handsome  residences  may  here  be  seen,  surrounded  by 
highly  cultivated  grounds.  About  a  mile  below  the  town  is  a 
chalybeate  spring, ,  which  is  said  to  resemble  the  waters  of 
Cheltenh  tm,  in  England.  British  and  American  vessels  fre- 
quently 1  lud  at  Amherstburg,  on  their  trips  to  and  from  tlie 
Upper  Lakes. 

Fort  Malden,  capable  of  accommodating  a  regiment  c. 
troops,  is  situated  about  half  a  mile,  above  Amherstburg,  on 
the  east  bank  of  the  river,  the  channel  of  which  it  here  com- 
mands. 

At  Brown sTOWN,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
in  Michigan,  is  the  battle-ground  where  the  Americans,  under 
disadvantageous  circumstances,  and  with  a  slight  loss,  routed 
the  British  forces,  which  lay  in  ambush,  as  the  former  were  on 
their  way  to  relieve  the  fort  at  Frenchtown,  which  event  occur- 
red August  5, 1812. 

Sandwich,  C.  W,,  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  river,  two 
miles  below  Detroit,  and  nine  miles  below  Lake  St.  Clair.  It 
stands  on  a  gently  sloping  bank  a  short  distance  from  the  river, 
which  is  here  about  a  mile  wide.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest 
settlements  in  Canada  West. 

Windsor,  C.  W.,  situated  in  the  township  of  Sandwich,  is  a 
village  directly  opposite  Detroit,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
three  steam  ferries.  It  was  laid  out  in  1 834,  and  is  now  a  place 
of  considerable  business,  having  a  population  of  about  2,000 
inhabitants.  Here  terminates  the  Great  Western  Railway 
of  Canada,  which  extends  from  Niagara  Falls  or  Suspension 
Bridge,  via  Hamilton  and  London,  to  opposite  Detroit— thus 
forming  an  important  link  in  the  great  line  of  railroads,  now 
finished,  running  from  the  sea-board  at  different  points  to  the 
Mississippi  River 


BUFFALO    TO    CLEVELAND,    DETROIT,    ETC.  149 


STEAMEB8  EUNNING  FEOM  BUFFALO  TO  DIFFERENT  POETS 
ON  LAKE  EEIE,  ETC.— 1867. 

MICHIGAN   CENTBAIi   RAILBOAD  LINE 

Steamer  Plymouth  Rock,  2,000  tons. . .  .Capt.  P.  J.  Ralph. 

«       Mississippi,  1,830    "   "      S.  G.  Langlev. 

Western  World,  2,000    «* «*     J.  S.  Richards. 

One  of  the  above  splendid  steamers  leaves  the  foot  of  Erie 
Street,  Buffalo,  every  evening  (Sundays  excepted)  at  9  p.m., 
direct  for  Detroit,  connecting  Tvith  trains  on  the  Michigan  Cen- 
tral Railroad,  rmining  to  Chicago,  etc. 

C.  E.  Noble,  Gen.  Agents  Buffalo 

MICHIGAN   SOUTHERN   RAILROAD   LINE 

Southern  Michigan,  1,470  tons Capt.  L.  B.  Goldsmith. 

Western  Metropolis,  1,830    "    "     L  T.  Pheatt. 

City  of  Buffalo,  2,200    "    "     A.  D.  Perkins. 

One  of  the  above  new  and  popular  steamers  usually  leaves  the 

foot  of  Main  Street,  Buffalo,  daily  (Sundays  excepted),  direct 

for  Toledo,  connecting  with  trains  on  the  Michigan  Southern 

and  Northern  Indiana  railroads,  running  to  Chicago,  etc.    This 

line  also  connects  with  trains  of  cars  running  from  Toledo  to 

Lafayette,  Ind.,  St.  Louis,  etc. 

C.  Forbes,  Gen,  Agent,  Buffalo. 


CLEVELAND,   COLUMBUS   AND   CINCINNATI   RAILROAD  LINE. 

Steamer  Crescent  City 1,740  tons,  Capt.  Wm.  T.  Pease. 

"       Queen  OF  THE  West,  1,850    "        "    D.H.McBride. 

One  of  the  above  steamers  usually  leaves  Buffalo  at  8  o'clock 
P.M.,  direct  for  Cleveland,  0.,  connecting  with  trains  on  tho 
(Tleyeland,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati  Railroad. 

J.  C.  Harbison,  Gen.  Agent,  Buffalo. 

Steamer  Clifton,  Capt.  H.  Van  Allen,  runs  from  Buffalo  to 
Chipptwa,  C.  W.,  daily,  connecting  with  the  Erie  and  Ontario 
Railroad,  forming  a  through  line  of  travel  to  Niagara  Falls, 
Toronto,  etc. 

Steamer  Mohawk  runs  from  Buffalo  to  Port  Stanley,  etc.> . 
Qonnecting  with  the  London  ana  Port  Stanley  Railroad. 

18* 


150        BUFFALO    AND    NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    DETROIT. 


EAILROAD  EOUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  FALLS  TO  HAMILTON 
AND  DETROIT,  via  GREAT  WESTERN  RAILWAY  OF 

CANADA. 

This  great  International  Line,  extending  from  Niagara  River 
to  Detroit  River,  opposite  the  city  of  Detroit,  a  distance  of  229 
miles,  passes  through  a  fine  and  interesting  section  of  country, 
equal  in  many  espects  to  Western  New  York.  It  connects 
with  the  New  York  Central  and  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls 
Railroad,  forming  a  great  through  route  of  travel. 

Starting  from  the  Suspension  Bridgt  it  Clifton,  two  miles 
below  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  the  passenger  train  soon  reaches  tlie 
verge  of  the  mountain  ridge  overlooking  the  plain  below,  while 
in  the  distance  may  be  seen  the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario, 
usually  studded  with  sail  vessels  and  prope  ^  rs  on  their  wa/  to 
or  from  the  mouth  of  the  Welland  CanaL 

"  Traced  like  a  map,  the  landscape  lies 
In  cultured  beauty  stretching  wide.'' 

Thokold,  nine  miles,  is  situated  on  the  line  of  the  WcUand 
Canal,  where  is  abundant  water-power  propelling  five  or  six  flour- 
ing-mills.  A  railroad  extends  to  Port  Dalhousie,  some  five  or  six 
miles  distant,  connecting  with  a  steamer  running  to  Toronto. 
This  road  will  be  extended  to  Port  Colbourne,  on  Lake  Erie,  about 
twenty  miles  distant. 

St.  Catherines,  12  miles  from  the  Suspension  Bridge>  is  a 
flourishing  town,  also  situated  on  the  line  of  the  Welland  Canal, 
which  connects  Erie  and  Ontario.  This  has  become  of  late  a 
fashionable  place  of  resort  during  the  summer  months,  caused 
by  the  mineral  waters  of  the  "  Artesian  Wells"  obtaining  great 
celebrity,  owing  to  their  curative  properties.  Here  are  two  or 
three  well-kept  hotels  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors.  For 
further  description  of  this  place,  see  page  238. 

Beamsville,  twenty-two  miles  from  the  Suspension  Bridge, 
ifl  a  thriving  village,  about  one  mile  from  the  station. 

Grimsby,  five  miles  farther,  is  situated  on  Forty-mile  Creek, 
the  scene  of  some  hard  fighting>  during  the  war  of  1812.    It  is  i 


BUFFALO    AND   NIAGARA   FALLS    TO   DETROIT.        151 


small  village  of  350  inhabitants ;  there  are  two  churches,  a 
hotel,  and  several  stores ;  also,  a  grist  ai^d  saw-mills  propelled 
by  water-power. 

Hamilton,  43  miles  from  Suspension  Bridge,  is  the  principal 
sta^oTi  on  the  line  of  the  Great  Western  Railway,  where  are 
located  the  principal  offices  and  workshops  connected  with  the 
company.  Here  is  a  commodious  depot  and  steamboat  landing. 
Carriages  and  omnibuses  are  always  in  readiness  to  convey 
passengers  to  the  hotels  in  the  city,  which  is  more  fully  de- 
scribed on  page— i 

The  Tot  onto  Branch  of  the  Great  Western  Railway  com- 
mences at  Hamilton,  and  extends  a  distance  of  thirty-eight 
miles  to  the  city  of  Toronto,  running  near  the  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario. 

On  leaving  Hamilton  for  Windsor  or  Detroit,  the  road  passes 
near  the  mansion  of  Sir  Allan  M*Nab,  and  over  the  Des  Jardines 
Canal,  entering  the  head  of  Burlington  Bay.*  Here  is  also  a 
Suspension  Bridge  in  sight,  thro  a  over  the  steam  as  it  cuts  its 
way  through  the  high  bank  which  encircles  the  bay  or  lake. 
This  point  presents  a  beautiful  view,  both  on  leaving  or  arriving 
at  the  head- waters  of  Lake  Ontario. 

DuNDAs,  five  miles  from  Hamilton,  is  situated  on  rising 
ground  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  is  a  thriving  manu- 
facturing place,  having  the  advantage  of  a  stream  which  flows, 
or  rather  rushes,  with  great  impetuosity  through  its  center, 
working  on  its  way  numerous  mills.  Th«  Des  Jardines  Canal 
runs  from  hence  to  Burlington  Bay,  enabling  the  manufacturers 
to  ship  their  goods  at  their  own  doors.  Among  the  manufac- 
tories are  flouring-mills,  a  paper-mill,  a  foundry,  which  is  an 
extensive  establishment,  where  machinery  of  every  kind  and 
steam-engines  are  made  to  a  largo  extent ;  an  axe  factory,  a 
woolen  factory ;  two  newspapers,  and  several  places  of  wor- 
ship.   Population  8,500. 


Mi 
m 


ml 


*  On  Thursday,  March  12th,  1857,  the  most  fearftil  accident  on  record 
oecorred  at  this  bridge,  killing  about  seventy  passengers,  men,  women,  an^ 
children,  being  on  their  way  firom  Toronto  to  Hamilto* 


m 


.Hi 
ill 


152       BUFFALO   AND   NIAGARA   FALLS   TO   DETROIT. 


, 


Harrisburo,  nineteen  miles  from  Hamilton, is  the  station  of 
the  Gait  Branch  of  the  Great  Western  Railway. 

Paris,  with  the  Upper  and  Lower  Town,  contains  about  3,500 
inhabitants ;  so  called  from  its  contiguity  to  beds  of  gypsum  or 
plaster  of  Peris.  It  possesses  a  considerable  amount  of  water- 
power,  which  works  numerous  mills.  There  are  two  foundries. 
a  tannery,  machine-shop,  distillery,  sa>-mill,  etc.  The  Buf- 
falo and  Lake  Huron  Railway  intersects  the  Great  Western 
at  this  point,  running  to  Goderich,  on  Lake  Huron. 

Woodstock,  48  miles  from  Hamilton  and  138  from  Wind- 
sor, is  a  county  town,  well  situated  on  rolling  ground,  and 
contains  about  4,500  inhabitants.  It  may  be  call^  a  town  of 
magnificent  distances ;  East  and  West  Woodstock  forming  a  street 
upward  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  vacant  spaces,  however,  are 
fast  being  filled  up  with  stately  edifices,  and  it  will  thus  in  a 
short  time  become  one  of  ihe  handsomest  thoroughfares  in 
Canada.  In  this  locality,  noted  for  its  handsome  country  seats 
— and  indeed  all  the  way  ifrom  Hamilton — the  land  as  seen  from 
the  road  (the  railroad  for  the  most  part  passes  through  a  new 
country)  is  rolling  and  well  cleared  of  trees  and  stumps,  pre- 
senting more  the  appearance  of  '*merrie  England"  than  any 
other  section  of  the  Province. 

Ingersoll,  nine  miles  farther,  formerly  an  Indian  village, 
now  contains  about  2,000  inhabitants.  A  small  arm  of  the 
Thames  runs  through  it,  and  turnishes  some  water-power,  by 
which  several  mills  are  worked.  Since  the  opening  of  the  rail- 
way it  has  risen  in  a  surprising  manner ;  and  the  town,  which 
before  then  had  a  very  dingy  appearance,  the  houses  being  of 
wood  and  wanting  paint,  is  now  gay  with  white  brick,  and  the 
streets  resound  with  the  hum  of  an  enterprising  population. 

London,  119  miles  from  Suspension  Bridge  and  110  from 
Windsor,  if  not,  like  her  English  namesake, 


The  great  resort 


Of  all  the  earth— checkered  with  all 
Complexiona  of  mankind — 

is  nevertheless  a  very  stirring  business  place,  and  presents  an- 
other instance  of  the  energy  and  enterprise  of  the  Canadian. 
Ten  years  ago,  this  then  very  small  village  of  wooden  houses 
was  entirely  burned  down,  and  now  on  its  ashes  is  raised  a  most 
flourishing  city,  containing  four  banks,  several  wholesale  houses, 
fifteen  churches,  many  of  them  handsome  structures,  and  the 
English  Church  having  a  fine  peal  of  bells ;  life  and  fire  in- 
surance offices,  breweries  and  distilleries.  It  has  three  news- 
papers and  several  good  hotels.  Population  nearly  18,000.  V^ 
'  IS  well  watered  by  the  river  Thames,  which,  however,  is  only 
navigable  up  to  Chatham,  sixty  miles  distamt. 


BUFFALO    fO    uoDkRICH. 


153 


The  London  and  Port  Stanley  Railroad  here  joins  the  Gr  .>at 
Western  Railway ;  length  twenty >four  miles,  running  south  to 
Lake  Erie. 

Chatham,  forty-six  miles  from  Windsor,  situated  on  the 
river  Thames,  possesses  the  great  advantage  of  a  navigation, 
and  is  therefore  a  place  of  considerable  business.  It  contains 
eight  churches ;  and  being  the  county  town  of  Kent,  it  has  a 
court-house,  a  very  handsome  building,  several  grist  and  saw- 
mills, woolen  factory,  two  foundries,  machine  shop,  etc.  Nu- 
merous steamers  and  sail  vessels  have  been  built  at  this  place. 
Steamers  ply  between  Chatham,  Detroit,  and  Amherstburg. 
Population  about  5,000. 

Windsor,  229  miles  from  Suspension  Bridge,  opposite  Detroit, 
prettily  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable business,  and  is  rapidly  increasing  in  wealth  and 
population,  owing  to  the  advantage  it  has  of  being  the  western 
terminus  of  the  Great  Western  Railway.  Of  course  Windsor 
most  have  a  "  Castle,"  and  the  hotel  of  that  name  will  be  found 
excellent.    Population,  2,000. 

Three  steam-ferries  ply  between  Windsor  and  Detroit,  making 
close  connections  for  tne  benefit  of  railroad  passengers. 

For  further  information  in  regard  to  this  route — See  Canada 
Railway  and  Steam  Navigation  Guide, 


BUFFALO  TO  GODERICH,  C.  W.,  via  BUFFALO  AND  LAKE 

HURON  RAILWAY. 

Office^  87  Bechanffe  Street^  Buffalo^  N.  Y. 

This  important  line  of  travel  extends  from  Buffalo,  N.  Y., 
crossing  Niagara  River  by  means  of  a  steam  ferry  at  Black 
Rock  to  Fort  Erie,  on  the  Canada  side.  It  is  proposed  to  con- 
struct a  permanent  railroad  bridge  of  about  one  mile  in  length, 
a  short  distance  above  the  present  ferry.  From  Fort  Erie  the 
line  of  the  railway  extends  westward  within  a  short  distance  of 
Lake  Erie  for  forty  miles,  to  Dunnville,  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Grand  River,  crossing  the  Welland  Canal. 

From  Dunnville  the  road  runs  along  the  valley  of  the  river  on 
the  north  side  to  Brantford,  thirty-eight  miles  farther,  and  from 
thence  extends  westward  to  Paris,  where  it  connects  with  the 
Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada.  The  line  thence  runs  to 
Stratford,  C.  W.,  where  it  connects  with  the  Grand  Trunk 


ft  I 


154 


BUFFALO   TO   GODERICH. 


n 


■■i^f 


Railway,  a  total  diBtance  from  Buffalo  of  116  miles.  To  tMs 
point  the  road  is  now  completed  and  in  running  order,  and  will 
be  finished  through  to  Goderich,  situated  on  Lake  Huron,  during 
the  year  1857. 

DuNviLLE  is  adyantageously  situated  on  the  Grand  River,  at 
a  point  where  it  is  intersected  by  the  feeder  of  the  Welland 
Canal.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  and  contains 
several  grist,  saw,  and  plaster  mills,  and  a  tannery.  ?opula< 
tion,  about  1,600. 

The  Welland  Canal  is  one  of  the  many  works  of  the  same 
kind  of  which  Canadians  may  be  proud.  This  Canal  affords  a 
passage  for  propellers,  sloops  and  schooners  of  125  tons  burden, 
around  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  connects  Lake  Erie  wi^h  Lake 
OntariOe  It  is  42  miles  long,  including  feeder,  56  feet  wide,  and 
from  8^  to  16  feet  deep.  The  whole  descent  from  one  lake  to  the 
other  is  834  feet,  which  is  accomplished  by  37  locks. 

Brantford,  78  miles  from  Buffalo  and  82  miles  from  God- 
erich,  is  beautifully  situated  on  Grand  River,  and  named  after 
Brant,  the  renowned  chief  of  the  Six  Nations  Indians,  who, 
with  lis  tribe,  steadily  supported  the  British  Crown  during  the 
American  War.  "In  *  Gertrude  of  Wyoming*  he  is  alluded  to 
in  disparaging  terms : 

*The  mammoth  comes— the  fiend,  the  monster  Brant.' 
But  some  7/ears  afterward  Campbell  was  obliged  to  apologize  to 
Brant's  son^^who  happened  to  visit  London;  as  it  appeared,  on 
satisfactory  evidence,  his  father  was  not  even  present  at  the 
horrible  desolation  of  Wyoming.  This  much  is  due  to  the  mem* 
ory  of  Brant,  who  was  a  brave  warrior  and  a  steadfast  ally  of 
the  British,  and  always  exerted  himself  to  mitigate  the  horrors 
of  war." 

Brantford,  until  the  opening  of  the  Great  Western  Railway, 
was  a  great  wheat  market,  the  streets  being  crowded  with  hun- 
dreds of  wagons  daily;  but  that  road  created  other  markets, 
and  to  this  extent  the  town  has  suffered.  It  has,  however,  other 
sources  of  prosperity.  There  is  no  place  in  the  Province  which 
oommands  such  extensive  water-power,  and  which  is  m&d^ 


BUFFALO    TO   OODERICH. 


155 


B.  To  this 
BT,  and  will 
ron,  during 

id  River,  at 
he  Welland 
ad  contains 
y.    Popnla- 

of  the  same 
lal  affords  a 
tons  burden, 
Le  wi-h  Lake 
set  wide,  and 
le  lake  to  the 

3. 

es  from  God- 
.  named  after 
udians,  who, 
n  during  the 
is  alluded  to 


available  for  the  working  of  numerous  mills.  The  iron  foun- 
dries, machine  shops,  and  potteries  are  on  a  large  scale,  and 
have  caused  the  place  to  be  regarded  as  the  Birmingham  of 
Canada.  It  has  a  goodly  number  of  churches  of  various  denomi- 
nations, and  one  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  hotels  in  the 
Province—**  The  Kirby  House."    Population  about  6,000. 

Stratford,  is  a  new  and  thriving  town,  favorably  situated 
on  the  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada.  This 
section  of  Canada  enjoys  a  good  climate  and  fertile  soil,  produo- 
iag  cereal  grains  in  great  abundance. 

The  distance  from  Stratford  to  Goderich,  by  railroad  route,  is 
44  miles,  which,  when  completed,  will  afford  a  direct  and  speedy 
route  from  Buffalo  to  Lake  Huron,  a  total  distance  of  160  miles. 

Goderich,  C.  W.,  is  advantageously  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Maitland  River,  here  affording, a  safe  and  good  harbor  for  ves- 
sels of  a  large  size.  The  village  is  beautifully  situated  on  ele- 
vated ground,  rising  about  150  feet  above  the  waters  of  Lake 
Huron.  The  population  now  amounts  to  about  4,000,  and  is 
rapidly  increasing  in  numbers  and  wealth.  Steamers  run  from 
this  port  to  Port  Sarnia,  Detroit,  and  Saginaw,  and  other  har- 
bors on  tjhe  Upper  Lakes. 

The  Buffalo  and  Lake  Huron  Railway  Company  is  pushing 
with  energy  the  completion  of  this  road,  and  the  improvement 
of  its  passenger  and  freight  capacity.  We  learn  that  the  board 
of  directors,  at  a  late  meeting  in  London,  England,  appropriated 
$1,800,000  for  the  construction  of  a  steam  ferry  to  run  be- 
tween Fort  Erie  and  Black  Rock,  which  shall  be  able  to  trans- 
fer  six  cars  at  a  time  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the  other ; 
for  the  construction  of  slips  and  docks  on  both  sides  to  accomo- 
date the  steamer ;  for  the  construction  of  a  track  from  Black 
Rock  into  the  city  of  Buffalo,  and  to  improve  the  harbor  at 
Ooderich,  the  terminus  of  the  road  on  Lake  Huron. 


•i 


I!i  •' 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES 

FROM  BUFFALO  TO  TOirDO.-LAKE  ERIE  ROUTE. 


Ports,  etc  Miles. 

Buffalo,  N.  Y 0 

Silver  Creek,  " 34 

Dunkirk,     " 42 

Portland,       " 52 

Erie,  Pa 90 

Conneaut,  Ohio 117 

Ashtabula,    "  131 

Painesville,    "  168 

Cleveland,  " 185 

KeUey's  Island 240 

Sandusky    "  246 

South  Bass  Island 246 . 

West  Sister  Island 263 

Turtle  Island 276 

Maumee  Bay 278 

Toledo,  Ohio 286 

Note. — The  direct  through 
from  Buffalo  to  Toledo  is  about 
Erie  being  about  560  miles. 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Toledo,  Ohio 0 

Maumee  Bay " 

Turtle  Island 10 

West  Sister  Island 22 

South  Bass  Island 40 

Kelley's  Island 45 

Sandusky,  Ohio 60 

100 

129 

154 

.168 

195 

Zoo 

243 

251 

.....  285 


<( 


(i 


(( 


«( 


Cleveland, 
Painesville, 
Ashtabula, 
Conneaut, 

Erie,  Pa 

Portland,  N.  Y. 
Dunkirk,    " 
Silver  Creek," 
Buffalo,      " 

route  as  run  by  the  steamers 
250  miles ;  the  circuit  of  Lake 


COMPARATIVE  INCREASE  OF  LAKE  CITIES. 


Buffalo,  N.  Y.  . 
Chicago,  111.  . . . 
Cleveland,  0.  . 
Detroit,  Mich.  . 
Milwaukee,  Wis 
Oswego,  N.  Y.  . 
Sandusky,  0.  . 
Toledo,  0 


1340. 
18,213 
4,470 
6,071 
9,102 
1,700 

•  •  •  • 

1,434 
1,222 


1850. 
42,261 
28,269 
17,034 
21,019 
20,061 
12,205 
6,008 
3,829 


1868. 
60,000* 
60,000 
40,000t 
34,436 
25,000 


8,000 
6,412 


lS5fi. 
85,000 
100,000 
60,000 
48,000 
42,000 
16,000 
10,000 
12,000 


*  Mack  Book  annexed. 


t  OMo  City  annexed. 


is. 

1856. 

m* 

85,000 

)00 

100,000 

)00t 

50,000 

136 

48,000 

}00 

42,000 

»  •  • 

16,000 

DOO 

10,000 

112 

12,000 

TRIP  FROM  BUFFALO  TO  CLEVELAND,  SANDUSKY, 

TOLEDO,  ETC. 


Steamers  of  a  large  class  leaye  Buffalo,  daily,  Sundays  ex- 
cepted, for  the  different  ports  on  the  American  or  south  shore 
of  Lake  Erie,  connecting  with  railroad  cars  at  Cleyeland,  San- 
dusky, and  Toledo. 

On  leaving  Buffalo  harbor,  which  is  formed  by  the  mouth  of 
Buffalo  Creek  where  is  erected  a  breakwater  by  the  United 
States  government,  a  fine  view  is  afforded  of  the  city  of  Buffalo, 
the  Canada  shore,  and  Lake  Erie  stretching  off  in  the  distance, 
with  here  and  there  a  steamer  or  sail  vessel  in  sight.  As  the 
steamer  proceeds  westward  through  the  middle  of  the  lake,  the 
landscape  fades  in  the  distance,  until  nothing  is  visible  but  a 
broad  expanse  of  green  waters. 

Sturgeon  Point,  20  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  passed  on  the 
south  shore,  when  the  lake  immediately  widens  by  the  land 
receding  on  both  shores.  During  the  prevalence  of  storms, 
when  the  full  blast  of  the  wind  sweeps  through  this  lake,  its 
force  is  now  felt  in  its  full  power,  driving  the  angry  waves  for- 
ward with  the  velocity  of  the  race-horse,  often  causing  the 
waters  to  rise  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake  to  a  great  height 
so  as  to  overflow  its  banks,  and  forging  its  surplus  waters  into 
the  Niagara  River,  which  causes  the  only  perceptible  rise  and 
increase  of  the  rush  of  waters  at  the  Falls. 

Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  42  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  advantageously 
situated  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie  where  terminates  the  J^Tew 
York  and  Erie  Railroad,  460  miles  in  length.  Here  is  a  good 
and  secure  harbor,  affording  about  twelve  feet  of  water  over 
the  bar.  A  light-house,  a  beacon  light  and  breakwater,  the 
latter  in  a  dilapidated  state,  have  here  been  erected  by  the 
United  States  government.  As  an  anchorage  and  port  of 
refuge  this  harbor  is  extremely  valuable,  and  is  much  resorted 

14 


\oS  BUFFALO    TO    CLEVKLAND,    TOLEDO,    F.TO. 


If  I. 


«;. 


to  for  that  '  iirposo  by  steamers  and  sail  vessels  during  the 
prevalence  of  storms ;  there  is  twelve  feet  of  water  over  the 
bar. 

The  village  was  incorporated  in  1837,  and  now  contains 
about  4,000  inhabitants,  600  dwelling-houses,  five  churches,  a 
bank,  throe  hotels,  and  20  stores  of  different  kinds,  bcHides 
several  extensive  storehouses  and  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. 

The  Buffalo  and  State  Line  Railroad t  extending  to  Erie, 
Pa.,  runs  through  Dunkirk,  forming  in  part  the  Lake  Shore 
line  of  railroad,  which  in  connection  with  the  railroad  leading 
direct  to  the  city  o'i  New  York,  affords  great  advantages  to  this 
locality,  which  is  no  doubt  destined  to  increase  with  the  grow- 
ing trade  of  the  lake  country. 

Fredonia,  three  miles  from  Dunkirk,  with  which  it  is  con- 
nected by  a  plank-road,  is  handsomely  situated,  being  elevated 
about  100  feet  above  Lake  Erie.  It  contains  about  2,300 
inhabitants,  800  dwelling-houses,  five  churches,  one  bank,  an 
incorporated  academy,  four  taverns  twenty  stores,  besides 
some  mills  and  manufacturing  establishments  situated  on  Cana- 
doway  Creek,  which  here  afifords  good  water-power.  In  the 
village,  near  the  bed  of  the  creek,  is  an  inflammable  spring, 
from  which  escapes  a  sufficient  quantity  of  gas  to  light  the 
village.  A  gasometer  is  constructed  which  forces  the  gas 
through  tubes  to  different  parts  of  the  village,  the  consumer 
paying  $4  per  year  for  each  burner  used.  It  is  also  used  for 
lighting  the  streets  of  the  village.  The  flame  is  large,  but  not 
80  strong  or  brilliant  as  that  obtained  from  gas  in  our  cities ; 
Vj  is,  however,  in  high  favor  with  the  inhabitants. 

Barcelona,  N.  Y.,  58  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  the  westernmost 
village  in  the  State.  It  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  is  much  resorted 
to  by  steamers  and  large  vessels  navigating  the  lake,  affording 
a  tolerable  good  harbor,  where  is  situated  a  light-house  which 
is  righted  by  inflammable  gas;  it  escapes  from  the  bed  of  a 
creek  about  half  a  mile  distant,  and  is  carried  in  pipes  to  the 
light-honse. 


BUFFALO  TO  CLEVELAND,  TOLEDO,  ETC. 


159 


The  City  of  Erie,  Pa.,  00  miles  from  Buflfalo  and  95  miles 
froiti  Cleveland,  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  blu£f,  affording  a 
proHpect  of  Presque  Isle  Bay  and  the  lake  beyond.  It  has  one 
of  the  largest  and  best  harbors  on  Lake  Erie,  from  whence 
sailed  Perry's  fleet  during  the  war  of  1812.  The  most  of  the 
vcijselH  were  here  built,  being  finished  in  scTcnty  days  from  the 
time  *  .e  trees  were  felled ;  and  here  the  gallant  yiotor  returned 
with  his  prizes  after  the  battle  of  Lake  Erie,  which  took  place 
September  10th,  1813.  The  remains  of  his  flag-ship,  the  Law- 
renee,  lie  in  the  harbor,  from  which  visitors  are  allowed  to  cut 
pieces  as  relics.  On  the  high  bank,  a  little  distance  from  the 
town,  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  French  fort,  Presque  Isle.  The 
city  contains  a  court-house,  nine  churches,  a  bank,  three  hotels, 
a  ship-yard,  several  extensive  manufacturing  establishments, 
and  about  7,000  inhabitants.  In  addition  to  the  lAike  Shore 
Railroadf  the  Sunbury  and  Erie  Railroad  will  terminate  at 
this  place,  affording  a  direct  communication  with  New  York  and 
Philadelphip . 

Presque  Isle  Bay  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water,  protected  by 
an  island  projecting  ioto  Lake  Erie.  There  is  a  light-house 
on  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  in  lat.  42°  8'  N. ; 
it  shows  a  fixed  light,  elevated  98  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
lake,  and  visible  for  a  distance  of  15  miles.  The  beacon  shows 
a  fixed  light,  elevated  28  feet,  and  is  visible  for  nine  miles. 

CoNNEAUT,  Ohio,  117  miles  from  Buflfalo  and  68  from  Cleve- 
land, situated  in  the  northeast  corner  of  the  State,  stands  on  a 
creek  of  the  same  name  near  its  entrance  into  Lake  Erie.  It 
exports  large  quantities  of  lumber,  grain,  pork,  beef,  butter, 
cheese,  etc.,  being  surrounded  by  a  rich  agricultural  section 
of  country.  The  village  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants. 
The  harbor  of  Conneaut  lies  two  miles  from  the  village,  where 
b  a  light-house,  a  pier,  and  several  warehouses." 

Ashtabula,  Ohio,  14  miles  farther  west,  stands  on  a  stream 
of  the  same  name,  near  its  entrance  into  the  lake.  This  is  a 
thriving  place,  inhabited  by  an  intelligent  population  estimated 
at  2,600.    The  harbor  of  Ashtabula  is  two  and  a  half  miles 


i 


160 


BUFFALO  TO  CLEVELAND,  TOLEDO,  ETC. 


from  the  village,  at  the  mouth  of  the  riTer,  where  is  a  light- 
house. 

F AIRPORT  stands  on  the  east  side  of  Grand  Riyer,  155  miles 
from  Buffalo.  It  has  a  good  harbor  for  lake  vessels,  and  is  a 
port  of  considerable  trade^  This  harbor  is  so  well  defended 
from  winds  and  easy  of  access,  that  vessels  run  in  when  they 
can  not  easily  make  other  ports.  Here  is  a  light-house  and  a 
beacon  to  guide  the  mariner. 

pAiNEsviLLE,  0.,  three  miles  from  Fairport  and  30  miles 
from  Cleveland,  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing  town,  being  sur- 
rounded by  a  fine  section  of  country.  It  is  the  county  seat  for 
Lake  County,  and  contains  a  court-house,  five  churches,  a  bank, 
20  stores,  a  number  of  beautiful  residences,  and  about  3,000 
inhabitants. 

The  City  of  Cleveland  is  situated  on  an  elevated  plain  at 
the  entrance  of  Cuyahoga  River  into  Lake  Erie,  in  N.  lat.  41°  30', 
W.  Ion.  81°  47'.  It  is  distant  185  miles  from  Buffalo,  and  107 
miles  from  Toledo  by  railroad  route ;  120  miles  from  Detroit  by 
steamboat  route.  Its  harbor  is  spacious  and  safe  when  once 
entered,  being  formed  by  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  city  is 
regularly  and  beautifully  laid  out,  ornamented  with  numerous 
shade- trees,  from  which  it  takes  the  name  of  *'  Forest  City ;" 
near  its  center  is  a  large  public  square.  It  is  the  mart  of  one 
of  the  greatest  grain-growing  States  in  the  Union,  and  has  a 
ready  communication  by  railroad  with  Albany,  New  York,  and 
Philadelphia.  The  bluff  on  which  it  is  built  is  80  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lake,  where  stands  a  light-house,  from  which  an 
extensive  and  magnificent  view  is  obtained,  overlooking  the 
meandering  of  the  Cuyahoga,  the  line  of  railroads,  the  shipping 
in  the  harbor,  and  the  vessels  passing  on  Lake  Erie. 

The  city  contains  a  court-house,  city  hall,  custom-house, 
college  buildings,  a  lyceum,  a  public  reading-room,  a  literary 
institution,  which  sustains  a  course  of  lectures  during  tlie 
winter  season;  25  churches  of  different  denominations,  six 
banks,  an  insurance  company,  and  several  large  and  well-kept 
hotels,  among  which  may  be  named  the.  Weddell  House,  the 


BUFFALO    TO    CLEVELAND,    TOLEDO,    ETC. 


161 


Angier  House,  the  American  Hotel,  and  the  Johnson  House. 
It  now  boasts  of  50,000  inhabitants,  and  is  rapidly  increasing 
in  numbers  and  wealth.  The  Ohio  Canal  terminates  here, 
forming  a  water  communication  with  the  Ohio  River  at  different 
points. 

The  railroads  diverging  from  Cleveland  are  the  Cleveland 
and  Erie,  95  miles ;  Cleveland  and  Pittsburgh,  100  miles,  with 
several  branches ;  Cleveland  and  Mahoning,  67  miles  finished ; 
Cleveland,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati,  135  miles;  and  Cleveland 
and  Toledo,  Northern  Division,  107  miles.  These  roads  all  run 
into  one  general  depot,  situated  near  the  water's  edge,  afford- 
ing great  facilities  to  the  trans-shipment  of  freight  of  different 
kinds.  The  trade  with  the  Upper  Lakes  is  one  of  great  and 
growing  importance ;  steamers  leave  daily  for  Detroit,  Macki- 
nac, Green  Bay,  Chicago,  the  Saut  Ste  Marie,  and  Lake  Superior. 

For  list  of  steamers  sailing  from  Cleveland  and  Detroit  to 
the  Upper  Lakes,  see  page  140. 

Black  River,  28  miles  from  Cleveland,  is  a  small  village 
with  a  good  harbor,  where  is  a  ship-yard  and  other  manufac- 
turing establishments. 

Vermilion,  10  miles  farther  on  the  line  of  the  Cleveland 
and  Toledo  Railroad,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  sauio  name. 

Huron,  Ohio,  50  miles  from  (Cleveland  and  10  miles  from 
Sandusky,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Huron  River,  which 
affords  a  good  harbor.  It  contains  several  churches,  15  or  20 
stores,  several  warehouses,  and  about  2,000  inhabitants 

The  islands  lying  near  the  hqad  of  Lake  Erie,  off  Sandusky, 
are  Kelley's  Island,  North  Bass,  Middle  Bass,  and  South 
Bass  islands,  besides  several  smaller  islands,  forming  altogether 
a  handsome  group.  Kelley's  Island  is  the  largest  and  most 
important,  but  on  the  north  side  of  South  Bass  Island  lies  the 
secure  harbor  of  Put-in  Bay,  made  celebrated  by  being  the 
rendezvous  of  Com.  Perry's  flotilla  before  and  after  the  decisive 
battle  of  Lake  Erie,  which  resulted  in  the  capture  of  the  entire 
British  fleet. 


162 


BUFFALO  TO  CLEVELAND,  TOLEDO,  ETC. 


NAVAL  BATTLE  ON  LAKE  ERIE. 

September  10th,  1813,  the  hostile  fleets  of  England  and  the 
United  States  on  Lake  Erie  met  near  the  head  of  the  lake,  and 
a  sanguinary  battle  ensued.  The  fleet  bearing  the  "  red  cross" 
of  England  consisted  of  six  vessels,  carrying  64  guns,  under 
command  of  the  veteran  Com  Barclay ;  and  the  fleet  bearing 
the  "  broad  stripes  and  bright  stars"  ^  the  United  States,  con- 
sisted of  nine  vessels,  carrying  54  guns,  un^nr  command  of  the 
young  and  inexperienced,  but  brave,  Com.  Oliver  H.  Perry. 
The  result  of  this  important  conflict  was  made  known  to  the 
world  in  the  following  laconic  dispatch,  written  at  4  p.m.  of 
that  day : 


« 


Dear   General :    We  have  met  the  enemy,  and  they  are 
ours.    Two  ships,  two  brigs,  one  schooner,  and  one  sloop. 

«« With  esteem,  etc.,  0.  H.  Perrv. 

"  Gen.  William  Jones." 


Mr.  Powell,  the  artist,  who  painted  the  De  Soto  picture  for 
Congress,  has  been  appointed  by  the  ^  Mo  Legislature  to  paint 
a  representation  of  Perry's  Victors  on  Lake  Erie — the  price 
not  to  exceed  $5,000.  It  will  be  placed  in  one  of  the  panels  of 
the  rotunda  of  the  new  State  {louse  in  Columbus,  the  capital 
of  the  State. 


Hi 


/ 


OHIO    RIVER    AND    LAKE    BRIB    CANALS. 


163 


BAILBOAD  BOUTE  ABOUND  LAKE  EBIE. 
This  important  body  of  water  being  encompassed  by  a  band 

of  iron,  wo  subjoin  the  following  Table  of  Distances: 

Miles. 
Buffalo  to  Paris,  C.  W.,  via  Buffalo  and  Lake  Huron 

Railroad 84 

Paris  to  Windsor  or  Detroit,  via  Great  Western  Railway.  158 

Detroit  to  Toledo,  Ohio,  via  Detroit  and  Toledo  R.R 63 

Toledo  to  Cleveland,  via  Cleveland  and  Toledo  R.R 107 

Cleveland  to  Erie,  Pa.,  via  Cleveland  and  Erie  R.R 05 

Erie  to  Buffalo,  via  LaAre  Shore  Road 88 

Total  miles : 695 

The  extreme  length  of  Lake  Erie  is  250  miles,  from  the 
nouth  of  Niagara  River  to  Maumee  Bay ;  the  circuit  of  the 
lake  about  660  miles,  being  about  100  miles  lesa  distance  than 
has  been  stated  by  some  writers  on  the  great  lakes. 


OHIO  BIYEB  AND  LAKE  EBIE  CANALS. 

The  completion  of  the  Miami  Canal  makes  four  distinct 
channels  of  communication  from  the  Ohio  Iliver  through  the 
State  of  Ohio  to  Lake  Erie,  namely : 

1.  The  Erie  Extension  Canal,  from  Beaver,  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  below  Pittsburgh ,  to  Erio,  136  miles.  2.  The  Cross- 
Cut  Beaver  Canal,  which  is  an  extension  or  branch  from 
Newcastle,  Pa.,  on  the  Beaver  Canal,  to  Akron,  Ohio,  where  it 
nnites  with  the  Portsmouth  and  Cleveland  Canal— making  a 
canal  route  from  Beaver  to  Cleveland  of  143  miles.  8.  The 
Ohio  Canal,  from  Cleveland  to  Portsmouth,  through  the  center 
of  the  State,  809  miles.  4.  The  Miami  Extension,  which  is  a 
union  of  the  Miami  Canal  with  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal, 
through  Dayton,  terminating  at  Toledo,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Maumee  River  on  Lake  Erie,  247  miles.  The  vast  and  increas- 
ing business  of  the  Ohio  Valley  may  furnish  business  for  all 
these  canals.  They  embrace  rich  portions  of  Pennsylvania, 
Ohio,  and  Indiana ;  but  are  not  so  located  as  to  be  free  from 
competition  with  one  another.  At  no  distant  time,  they  would 
unquestionably  command  a  sufficient  independent  business, 
were  it  not  probable  that  they  may  be  superseded  by  railways. 
The  capacity  of  railways — both  for  rapid  and  cheap  transporta- 
tion— as  it  18  developed  by  circumstances  and  the  progress  of 
science,  is  destined  to  affect  very  materially  the  value  and  im- 
portance of  canals. 


' 


164 


DISCOVERY   OF   A   NEW   HARBOR. 


OPENING  OF  NAVIGATION  IN  L\KE  ERIE. 

The  following  table,  prepared  by  the  Df^ii  ^it  Advertiser^  from 
back  files,  shows  th")  time  when  nayigatioii  has  opened  at  tbis 
port  for  the  past  seventeen  years : 


1840.. March  8.... 
1841..  April  18.... 
1842.. March  3.... 
1843..  April   18.... 

1844.. March  11 

1845..Jan*y    4 

1846..  March  14 


Steamer  Star  arrived  from  Cleveland. 


(( 


1847. 
1848. 
1849. 
1850. 
1851. 
1852. 
1853. 
1854. 
1855. 
1856. 


Gen.  Wayne  arrived  from  BuflFalo. 

Gen.  Scott  cl'd  for  Buffalo. 

Fairport  cl'd  for  Cleveland. 

Red  Jacket  cl'd  for  Fort  Gratiot. 

United  States  arrived  from  Buffalo. 

John  Owen  arrived  from  Cleveland. 
"     30....      "        United  States    "  « 

22 Prop.  Manhattan  cl'd  for  Buffalo. 

21 Steamer  John  Owen  cl'd  for  Cleveland. 


{€ 
(( 

(( 
(( 

« 


«( 
it 
t€ 
*t 
{( 
« 
C( 


April 


(( 


25., 
19., 
22. 
14. 
24. 
2. 
16. 


18e7..  March  24.... 


it 
«( 
(( 

(C 
(C 

tt 
it 
it 


Southerner  arrived  from  Buffalo. 

HoUister       «<        "        Toledo. 

Arrow  cl'd  for  Toledo. 

Bay  City  arrived  from  Sandusky. 

May  Queen    "        "     Cleveland. 

Arrow  cl'd  for  Toledo. 

May  Queen  cl'd  for  Cleveland. 

Ocean  cleared  for  Cleveland. 


h 


DI8C0VEEY  OF  A  NEW  HARBOB  IN  LAKE  HURON. 

We  learn  fvom  a  Michigan  paper  that  Capt.  W.  Gilmore,  of 
the  brig  Sultan,  yiaving  come  into  collision  with  a  vessel  off  the 
Middle  IsUnd,  on  the  night  of  October  27th,  1856,  was  driven 
by  stress  of  the  accident  into  Bail  du  Berd,  on  the  north  side 
of  Lake  Huron,  about  eighty  miles  above  Goderich.  Captain 
Gilmore,  in  a  letter  to  the  editor  of  the  Port  Bruce  Pioneer, 
states  that  there  is  plenty  of  water  in  the  harbor  for  the  largest 
vessel  on  the  lakes,  and  a  safe  anchorage  A  pier  inside  the 
harbor  is  alone  wanted  to  render  the  accommodations  perfect. 
The  captain  expresses  the  opinion,  that  a  light-house  and  a  pier 
would  render  this  bay  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  lakes. 
Since  this  letter  was  written,  we  are  informed  that  a  small 
town  has  been  planted  in  that  locality. 


.    1 


BUFFALO 

Buffalo  Citt,  Erie  Co.,  N.  Y.,  possessing  commanding  ad- 
Tantages,  is  distant  from  Albany  298  miles  by  railroad,  and 
ibont  350  miles  by  the  line  of  the  Erie  Canal ;  in  N.  lat. 
42°  53',  W.  long.  78°  65'  from  Greenwich.  It  is  favorably 
ghuated  for  commerce  at  the  head  of  Niagara  Riyer,  the  outlet 
of  Lake  Erie,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  great  chain  of  Western 
l&kes,  and  is  the  point  where  the  vast  trade  of  these  inland 
eeas  is  concentrated.  The  harbor,  formed  of  Bu£falo  Creek,  lies 
nearly  east  and  west  across  the  southern  part  of  tne  city,  and 
is  separated  from  the  waters  of  LtVe  Erie  by  a  peninsula  be- 
tween the  creek  and  lake.  This  harbor  is  a  very  secure  one, 
anil  is  of  such  capacity,  that  although  steamboats,  ships,  and 
other  lake  craft,  and  canal  boats,  to  the  number,  in  all,  of  from 
three  to  four  hundred,  have  sometimes  been  assembled  there  for 
the  transaction  of  the  business  of  the  lakes,  yet  not  one  half 
part  of  the  water  acco:  ^modations  has  ever  yet  been  occupied 
by  the  vast  business  of  the  great  and  growing  West.  The  har- 
bor of  Buffalo  is  the  most  capacious,  and  really  the  easiest  and 
safest  of  access  on  our  inland  waters.  Improyements  are  an- 
nually made  by  dreclging,  by  the  construction  of  new  piers> 
wh&nree,  warehouses,  and  eleyators,  which  extend  its  facilities, 
and  render  the  discharge  and  trans-shipment  of  cargoes  more 
rapid  and  conyenieut;  and  in  this  latter  respect  is  without  an 
equal. 

Buffalo  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in  1801.  Tn  1832  it  was 
chartered  as  a  city,  being  now  goyemed  by  a  mayor,  recorder, 
and  board  of  aldermen.  Its  population  in  1830,  according  to 
the  United  States  Census,  was  8,668 ;  in  1840, 18,213 ;  and  in 
1850, 42,261.  Since  the  latter  period  the  limits  of  the  city  haye 
been  enlarged  by  taking  in  the  town  of  Black  Rock ;  it  is  now 
divided  into  thirteen  wards,  and,  according  to  the  State  Census 
of  1855,  contained  74,214  inhabitants,  being  now  the  third  city 


166 


BUFFALO. 


iril 


in  point  of  site  in  tho  State  of  New  York  The  public  build- 
ings are  numerous,  and  many  of  them  fine  specimens  of  archi- 
tecture ;  while  the  private  buildings,  particularly  those  for  busi- 
ness purposes,  are  of  the  most  durable  construction  and  modem 
style.  The  manufacturing  establishments  are  also  numerous, 
and  conducted  on  a  large  scale,  producing  manufactured  articles 
for  the  American  and  Canadian  markets. 

The  lines  of  i^teamers  and  railroads  diverging  from  Buffalo 
tend  to  make  it  one  of  the  greatest  thoroughfares  in  the  Union. 
Steamers  and  propellers  run  to  Cleveland,  Toledo,  Detroit, 
Mackinac,  Saut  Ste  Marie,  Green  Bay,  Milwaukee,  Chicago,  et<;. 

The  railroads  diverging  from  Buffalo  are  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral, extending  to  Albany  298  miles  by  direct  route ;  Buffalo 
Division  of  the  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad ;  Lake  Shore  Hail- 
road  ;  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls,  and  Lewiston  Railroad ;  and  the 
Buffalo  and  Huron  Railroad,  the  latter  running  through  Can- 
ada to  Goderich  on  Lake  Huron,  and  connecting  with  the  Great 
Western  Railway,  terminating  at  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit. 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  American,  Clarendon,  Commer- 
cial, and  Mansion  House,  on  Main  Street,  and  the  Western 
Hotel,  facing  the  Terrace. 

**  The  climate  of  Buffalo  is,  without  doubt,  of  a  more  evoi 
temperature  than  any  other  city  in  the  same  parallel  of  lati- 
tude from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Atlantic  coast.  Observations 
have  shown  that  the  thermometer  never  ranees  as  low  in  win- 
ter, nor  as  high  in  summer,  as  at  points  in  Massaohusetts,  the 
eastern  and  central  portions  of  this  State,  the  northern  and 
southern  shores  of  Lake  Erie,  in  Michigan,  Northern  Illinois, 
and  Wisconsin.  The  winters  are  not  as  keen,  nor  the  summers, 
cooled  by  the  breezes  from  the  lake,  as  sultry ;  and  in  a  sani- 
tary point  of  view,  it  is  probably  the  healthiest  city  in  the 
world.  ' 

"  London,  usually  considered  the  healthiest  of  cities,  has  & 
ratio  of  one  death  in  forty  inhabitants.  The  ratio  of  Buffalo 
is  one  in  fifty-six.  The  favorable  situation  of  the  city  for 
drainage,  and  for  a  supply  of  pure  water ;  its  broad,  well-paved  j 
streets,  lined  with  shrubbery  and  shade-trees ;  its  comparatiTelj  | 
mild  winters ;  its  cool  summers ;  its  pleasant  drives  and  pictur- 
esque suburbs,  and  its  proximity  to  the  *  Falls,*  combine  to  | 
render  it  on^  of  the  most  desirable  residences  on  the  contiuflnt." 


In  reg 

centers  i 

"Few 

of  unintc 

miles,  coi 

aggregate 

exceed  th 

an  amou] 

witnessed 

of  tho  shi 

sea  of  vas 


BUFFALO. 


167 


iblic  bnild- 
is  of  arcbi- 
«e  for  bud- 
md  modern 
numerous, 
ired  articles 

• 

Vom  Buffalo 
1  the  Union, 
do,  Detroit, 
Chicago,  etc. 
w  York  Cen- 
,ute;  Buffalo 
8  Shore  Rail- 
)ad ;  and  the 
through  Can- 
ith  the  Great 
te  Detroit. 
ion,  Commer- 
the  Weetern 


a  more  even 

.rallel  of  lati- 

Observations 

tB  lovv  in  vin- 
achusetts,  the 
northern  and 
ihern  Illinois, 
the  summers, 
md  in  a  sani- 
jt  city  in  the 


In  regard  to  the  commerce  of  the  '*  Far  West,"  much  of  which 

centers  in  Buffalo,  a  writer  justly  remarks  : 

"  Few  men  have  duly  estimated  the  value  of  our  1,500  miles 
of  uninterrupted  lake  navigation.  A  coast  of  upward  of  3,000 
miles,  connecting  with  numerous  canals  and  railroads,  whose 
aggregate  length,  when  they  shall  be  completed,  will  greatly 
exceed  the  length  of  all  our  inland  seas  and  coasts,  must  create 
an  amount  of  commerce  far  greater  than  has  ever  yet  been 
witnessed  on  the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  completion 
of  the  ship  canal  at  the  Saut  Ste  Marie  alone  opens  an  inlani 
sea  of  vast  and  growing  importance." 


TRADE  AND  COMMERCE  OP  BUFFALO— 1856. 

IMPORTS    BY    LAKK.  V^  V 

The  annual  tables  of  the  Lake  Trade  during  the  year,  with 
some  additional  comparative  statements  showing  the  course  of 
trade,  the  increase  and  decrease  in  the  general  average  value 
of  most  articles,  and  other  matters  of  interest  concerning  this 
trade  during  the  year  1856,  are  copied  from  the  Buffalo  Courier. 
The  value  of  Imports  by  Lake  for  the  past  six  years  is  as  follows : 


m\ $31,889,951 

iP!'>2 84,943,865 

1863 36,881,230 


1854 $45,030,931 

1856 6),846,8]9 

1866 45,684,079 


This  table  exhibits  a  steady  increase  in  the  yearly  valuation 
of  the  Lake  Imports  until  last  vcar,  when  there  is  a  decrease  as 
compared  with  1866  of  $4,662,740.  This  large  decrease  has 
been  occasioned,  not  by  a  falling  off  in  the  receq>ts  of  the  more 
valuable  articles  of  import,  but  by  the  decline  in  the  average 
value  of  nearly  every  description  of  produce. 

The  following  table  will  show  the  different  States  through 

whose  ports  have  been  shipped  the  following  produce  received 

at  this  port..    Through  Cleveland,  Sandusky,  Toledo,  and  a  few 

I  smaller  ports,  we  have  received  the  products  of  Ohio,  Indiana, 

Southern  Illinois,  and  Kentucky,  and  through  Chicago,  the  pro- 

[doots  of  Illinois,  Iowa,  Indiana,  and  Missouri. 

Hoar. 

lOhio ports  ...641,166 
[Michigan  ....203,125 

ilinois 122,472 

Tisconsm 116,427 

Canada 60,906 


Wheat 

826,016 

495,289 

6,127,947 

1,707,798 

886,067 

Cora. 

1,717,130 

164,497 

7,922,461 

62,702 

Oats. 

1,094,016 

42,314 

648,826 

89,146 

Total...  1.143,086        8,643,117       9,846,790      1,723,801 


Wr 


168 


BUFFALO. 


The  following  Table  will  sUow  the  entranoeH  and  clearances 
of  foreign  and  Amerioan  vessels,  together  ^th  their  tonnage  and 
crews  during  the  year  18^6,  and  the  total  for  the  past  7  years : 


Arrived.  No. 
American  vessels  from  foreign 

ports 112 

Foreign  do.,  do 718 


830 


Total 

Cleared. 
Amer.  vessels  to  foreign  ports      181 
Foreign  do.,  do 632 


Total. 


Inward 
Outwari: 


'tJi' '  trade. 


813 

3,292 
8,193 


Tom. 

17,746 
71,039 

88,784 

80,607 
62,838 

93,440 

1,441,668 
1,424,702 


Crews. 


(« 
i( 
«« 

« 


«c 
« 

« 
<« 


5,912 

1,193 
5,580 

6,773 

49,656 
49,210 

98,766 
111.451 
111,515 
120,838 
128,112 
127,491 
120,542 
125,562 


Total 6,485  2,866,366 

Grand  Total  for  1856 8,128  3,048,689 

•«      •»  1865 9,231  8,360,233 

"  1864 8,972  8,996,284 

«  1863 8,298  3,262,978 

«  1862 9,441  3,092,247 

«*  1861 9,060  3,087,633 

«  1860 8,444  2,743,700 

The  amount  of  new  tonnage  now  on  the  stocks  both  at  this 
and  other  Western  ports,  and  destined  for  the  trade  of  this  city 
and  the  West,  will,  we  believe,  increase  the  tonnage  entering 
and  departing  from  this  district  very  materially  during  the 
coming  season  (1857),  and  that  it  must  exceed  any  former  year. 

Losses  on  the  Lakes.— If  the  losses  on  the  great  Lakes 
during  the  past  year  are  any  indication  of  the  amount  of  com* 
merce  on  our  inland  seas,  it  must  have  grown  enormously  since 
1848.  In  that  year  the  losses  amounted  to  but  a  little  oyer 
$400,000;  in  1863  they  had  increased  to  nearly  a  million;  in 
1854  they  were  a  little  over  two  millions ;  in  1866  over  two  and 
a  half  millions ;  but  the  present  year,  1866,  they  have  reached 
the  fearful  8um  of  over  three  millions.  But,  large  as  this 
amount  is,  it  does  not  seem  so  great  when  it  is  viewed  in  con- 
nection with  the  statement  that  the  commerce  of  the  Lakes 
passing  the  St.  Clair  Flats  amounted  in  1856  to  more  than  three 
hundred  millions  of  dollars,  while  the  coasting  trade  not  in- 
cluded in  that  estimate  amounts  to  at  least  a  hundred  millions 
more.  This  looks  very  much  like  the  coarse  of  empire  taking 
a  westerly  direction. 


Inc 

Synoj 
derwriti 
1856. 

Steamei 
PropelU 
Barques 
Brigs.. 
Sohoonc 

Tot 


ii.fc"' „ 


BUFFALO. 


109 


md  clearances 

ir  tonnage  and 

past  7  years : 

'•  Crews. 


46 

39 

84 

07 
38 

40 

63 
02 

66 
;89 
!33 
584 
178 
^7 
>33 
(00 

ks  both  at  this 
Eide  of  this  city 
onage  entering 
\\j  during  the 
ly  former  year. 

le  great  Lakes 
mount  of  com- 
Lormously  since 
it  a  little  oyer 
r  a  million;  in 
6  over  two  and 
y  have  reached 
,  large  as  this! 
viewed  in  con- 
I  of  the  Lakes 
lore  than  three] 
trade  not  in* 
mdred  millions  I 

empire  takisgl 


m 

5,314 

5,912 

1,193 
6,580 

6,773 

49,656 
49,210 

98,766 
111.451 
111,515 
120,838 
128,112 
127,491 
120,542 
125,562 


RECAPITULATION    OF  LOSSES  ON  THE   LAKES — 1866. 

Losses  in  May,     steam  and  sail ..^ $142,600 


June, 

July, 
August, 
September,** 
October,  *« 
November,  ** 
December,  *< 


(I 


*•     118,660 

**     266,180 

**    67,760 

842,860 
882,089 
1,069,896 
«     169,660 


« 


Total  loss,  8t«am  and  sail,  in  1866 $8,038,874 

«•  *•  **    in  1866 2,797,839 


Increased  loss 

Total  loss  of  life  in  1866 407 

«•  in  1866 118 


241,086 


(( 


Increase  

Loss  on  steam  hulls 

Loss  on  cargoes  by  steam 


:89 


$732,800 
646,300 


Total  loss  by  steam  in  1866 1,878,100 

in  1866 1,692,700 


« 


«« 


Decrease  in  1866 $814,600 

Loss  on  sail  hulls 868,676 

Loss  on  cargoes  by  sul 797,099 


Total  loss  by  sail  in  1856 1,660,714 

«*    in  1855 1,106,189 


« 


Increase  in  1866 $666,685 


Synopsis  of  the  Marine  Re^ster 
derwriters  of  vessels  in  commission 
1856. 

Number. 

Steamers 107 

Propellers 185 

Barques 66 

Brigs 108 

Schooners 860 


of  the  Board  of  Lake  Un- 
on  the  lakes  in  the  fall  of 


Totid 


1,266 


Tonnage. 
62,868 
64,676 
21,778 
27,046 

178,880 

Gash  Value. 

$3,820,400 

2,741,200 

673,800 

701,860 

6,487,100 

839,786 

$12,944,860 

D.  P.  DOBBINS,  Sei^y 
Board  of  Lake  Underwritors. 

16 


p 

i^^KflHi^  '^ 

if 

Ji^'' 

¥ 

iif 

1 

'A 


170  BUFFALO. 


EXPORTS  PROM  UP-LAKE  PORTS  TO  BUFFALO. 

ST.\TE}£EyTy  Hltowing  the  teveral  amounta  of  Flour  and  Oraintgt»\ 
ported  by  Lake  from  various  ports  to  Buffalo^  during  the  sf.unon  jy 
1856: 

,  Flour,         Wht'Ht, 

bbU.  biiMh. 

Ashtabula  2,500 

Allensburgh 1,200     

Bayfluld,  0.  W 6^115 

Bluck  River 

Braiitford,  0.  W 16,281  82,003 

Port  Burwell,  C.  W 18,164 

Caledonia,  O.W...; 2726 

Cayuga. 7,628  41,127 

Cleveland 245,512  72,577 


Corn, 
bUKb. 


t  •   •    •   •  I 


On'8. 
bu«h. 


•#•••• 


Hv(, 

biiitli. 


1,600 


•  ■  •  •  •  I 


••••■•• 


84,202 


•  •  •  •  • 


117  289 

Chicago  119,772  6,100,298  7,884',615 

Coimeaut 1,200     

Detroit 189,809  888,898 

Port  Dover,  0.  W 18,086  89,718 

Dunnville,  C.W 2,228  19,502 

Krlo 

Fremont. 9,676 

FortErie,C.W 7,077     

Grand  Haven 8,955  87,891 

Green  Bay 1,864  15  > 

Goderlch,  0.  W 600  26,164 

Huron 827  20,8S9 

Indiana 1,671  ...   ... 

Kenosha   606  106,848 

Maltland,  0.  W 8,7S0 

Milwaukee 106,866  1,440,887 

Michigan  City 26,829 

Milan..     40 

Monroe 995  78,909 

Morpeth,  C.W 5,000 

Port  Washington 1,463  8,210 

Perrysburg 2,875     

Racine 1,622  68,763 

Port  Robinson,  C.  W 4,686 

Port  Rowan,  0.  W 867  465 

Ryerse,  C.  W 2,977  6,400 

Saginaw 766     

Sandusky. 178,664  69,218 

Sheboygan 898  87,082 

Port  Stanley,  C.  W «  2,295  99,716 

Toledo 208,417  621,164 

Venice 100     

VermUlon 2,810 

Waukegan 124  61,870 

York 2,624  1*997 


172,087 
687,9S6 


IS 
«!),78« 


64,997        43,411 


26S 


6,995 

86,000 


274IW 

11,808 


281,428      252,916        8S,182 


84,000 

81,269 

6,700 

I  •  •  •      •  • 
I  •   •       •  •  • 


!•••••• 


48,241 
88J792 


••••••»• 


•••••••• 


210,687  421,147 

•••••••  ••••■••• 

••«••••  •••••■•• 

987,579  81,157 

8,000  20,000 

20,088  80,650 

188    


•  •••*••• 

•  ••■■••• 

"63,756 

•  •••••I* 

•  •  ••  •••• 

24,003 


>  •  •  •  •  • 


Totals 1,126,048  8,466,671  9,682,477    1,788,882     245,810 


lUPPALO. 

/•  a'ld  Grain  «> 
ing  tfie  neanon  oj 

„„  I  TRIP.  FROM  BUFFALO  TO  MACKINAC,  CHICAGO,  ETC. 

This  is  a  deeply  interesting  excursion,  calculated  to  give 

']'][    I  the  traveler  a  just  conception  of  the  great  iniand  seas  of  North 

I  America,  inasmuch  as  the  route  traverses  Lakes  Erie,  St.  Clair, 

IS  I 

172,087       fiOM  I  Huron,  and  Michigan,  a  total  distance  of  more  than  a  thousand 
687,9S«     ....■., 

^'^^i    I     If  to  this  is  added  a  trip  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Mary  (Saut  de 

Ste  Marie),  in  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior,  and  connecting  it 

80,000  11,808  I  ^^^  Lake  Huron — to  the  Manitoulin  Islands  in  the  northern 
quarter  of  Lake  Huron,  their  very  name  implying  scenery  fitted 
to  excite  sublime  emotions,  and  suggesting  the  strong  sentiment 

******         ••••••■        ^H 

252,916       83,182  |  of  religious  awe  which  characterized  the  primitive  red  man — if 

these  he  added  to  the  tour,  no  excursion  of  equal  extent  can  be 
^241       ■  ^^^^^  *^**  presents  a  greater  variety  of  picturesque  and  mag- 

I  nificent  scenery.     Besides  the  above  grand  excursion,  Lake  Su- 

'        ■  perior  alone  affords  ample  inducements  for  the  tourist  to  extend 

■  his  visit  to  this  greatest  of  all  the  inland  seas  of  America. 

As  this  excursion  begins  on  Lake  Erie,  we  begin  our  guid- 
ance with  a  brief  description  of  thai  noble  and  most  useful 
body  of  water. 

121147      M7sfl  ■     ^^^^  Erie,  washing  the  shores  of  four  of  these  United 

States— New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  and  Michigan — and 

81,i57    '24003  I  ^I'e&ding  between  them  and  a  large  segment  of  the  British 

|^'9^    I  province  of  Canada  West,  with  the  line  of  division  as  settled 

I  by  treaty,  running  through  the  middle  of  the  lake,  is  250  miles 

long  by  40  to  GO  miles  wide.    Its  surface,  as  ascertained  by  the 

'88,882  245,810  |  engineers  of  the  Erie  Canal,  is  565  feet  above  the  Hudson  River 
at  Albany,  and  880  feet  above  Lake  Ontario.  The  greatest 
depth  oi  the  lake  yet  observed  is  204  feet.  This  is  compara- 
tively shallow ;  and  the  relative  depths  of  the  great  series  of 
lakes  may  be  illustrated  by  saying,  that  the  surplus  waters 


172  BUFFALO    TO    MACKINAC,    CHICAGO,    VTO. 


hv.> 


. « 


poured  from  the  vaat  baaim  of  Superior,  Huron,  and  Michigan 
flow  across  the  plate  of  Erie  into  the  deep  bowl  of  Ontario. 

Lake  Erie  is  reputed  to  be  the  only  one  of  the  series  in 
whioh  any  current  is  perceptible.  The  fact,  if  it  is  ono,  I? 
usually  ascribed  to  its  shallowness;  but  the  vast  volume  of  its 
outlet — the  Niagara  River — with  its  strong  current,  ib  a  much 
more  favorable  cause  than  the  small  depth  of  its  water,  which 
may  be  far  more  appropriately  adduced  as  the  reason  why  tbo 
navigation  is  obstructed  by  ice  much  more  than  either  of  the 
other  great  lakes.  The  New  York  shore  of  Lake  Erie  extends 
about  60  miles,  in  the  course  of  which  the  lake  receives  a  num- 
ber of  streams,  the  most  considerable  of  which  are  the  Buffalo 
and  Cattaraugus  creeks;  and  presents  several  harbors,  the 
most  importa^t  of  which  at  present  are  Buffalo  Creek  and 
Dunkirk. 

As  connected  with  trade  and  navigation,  this  lake  is  far  the 
most  important  of  all  the  great  chain,  not  only  because  it  is 
bordered  by  older  settlements  than  any  of  them,  except  Ontario, 
but  still  more  because,  from  its  position,  it  concentrates  the 
trade  of  the  vast  West. 

When  WQ  consider  the  extent,  not  only  of  this  lake,  but  of 
Huron,  260  mile«i  long ;  of  Michigan,  830  miles  long ;  of  Su- 
perior, 420  miles  long,  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the 
globe,  we  may  quote  !vith  emphasis  the  words  of  an  English 
writer :  "  How  little  are  they  aware,  in  Europe,  of  the  extent  of 
commerce  upon  these  inland  seas,  whose  coasts  are  now  lined 
with  flourishing  towns  and  cities;  whose  waters  are  plowed 
with  magnificent  steamers,  and  hundreds  of  vessels  crowded 
with  merchandise!  Even  the  Americans  themselves  are  not 
fully  aware  of  the  rising  importance  of  these  lakes,  as  connected 
with  the  West." 


THE    FI 


Tk^.  folli 
work,  print( 
,)/  a  very  i 
Hennepin. 

"  It  now 
obiect,  to  c< 
ficiently  lai 
carry  on  a 
Tfestern  lak 
miles  above 
built  a  docl 

"On  the 
ready.  La  S 
bolt,  but  th 

"  During 
to  Fort  Fi 
Italian  nai 
Father  Hen 
ersed  the  c 
companions 
sisting  on  i 
two  days'  j 
ing  of  the  v 
boring  save 
beyond  La 
tempted  th( 
cessfuUy  w 
friendly  sqi 
which  was 
(Usheartcnc 
the  work  h 

•  There  ca 
their  bark  w 
falls.  Govei 
craft,  in  his  J 
Ctttes  the  sti 
mouth  of  th( 
the  Tonawa 
only  Htream 

t  Now  Kli 


'0. 


;*.  1 


id  Mchigan 
ntario. 
0  eerier  in 
t  is  one,  I? 
)lume  of  its 
b,  iti  a  much 
ater,  which 
son  why  the 
itlier  of  the 
irie  extends 
iyes  a  num* 
the  Buffalo 
arbors,  the 
Creek  and 

:e  is  far  the 
ocause  it  is 
apt  Ontario, 
ntrates  the 

:ako,  but  of 
mg;  of  Su- 
rater  on  the 
an  English 
Le  extent  of 
e  now  lined 
are  plowed 
>l8  crowvled 
es  are  not 
s  oonnected 


THE  FlRSr  VESSEL   WHICH   NAVIGATED  THE 

UPPER  LAKES. 


Tk^  following  account  is  trarslated  from  an  old  French 
work,  printed  ia  1688,  entitled,  '*^/»  .Account  of  the  Disea^^er]^ 
of  a  very  great  Country  situated  in  America"  by  Fa:her 
Hennepin.     It  r/ill  be  read  with  interest. 

"  It  now  became  necessary  for  La  Salle,  in  furtherance  of  his 
obicct,  to  construct  a  vessel  above  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  suf- 
ficiently largo  to  transport  the  men  and  goods  necessary  to 
carry  on  a  profitable  trade  with  the  savages  residing  on  the 
irestern  lakes.  On  the  22d  of  January,  1(^79,  they  went  six 
miles  above  the  falls  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek,  and  there 
built  a  dock  convenient  for  the  construction  of  their  vessel.* 

"  On  the  2()th  of  January,  the  keel  and  other  pieces  being 
ready,  La  Salle  requested  Father  Hennepin  to  drive  the  first 
bolt,  but  the  modesty  of  the  good  father's  profession  prevented. 

"  During  the  rigorous  winter.  La  Salle  determined  to  return 
to  Fort  Frontenac;t  and  leaving  the  dock  in  charge  of  an 
Italian  named  Chevalier  Tuti,  he  started,  accompanied  by 
Father  Henacpin  as  far  as  Lake  Ontario ;  from  thence  he  trav- 
ersed the  dreary  forests  to  Frontenao  on  foot,  with  only  two 
companions  and  a  dog,  which  drew  his  baggage  on  a  sled,  sub- 
sisting  on  nothing  but  parched  corn,  and  even  that  failed  him 
two  days*  journey  from  the  fort.  In  the  mean  time  the  build- 
ing of  the  vessel  went  ou  under  the  suspicious  eyes  of  the  neigh- 
boring savages,  although  the  most  part  of  them  had  gone  to  war 
beyond  Lake  Erie.  One  of  them,  feigning  intoxication,  at- 
tempted the  life  of  the  blacksmith,  who  defended  himself  suc- 
cessfully with  a  red-hot  bar  of  iron.  The  timely  warning  of  a 
friendly  squaw  averted  the  burning  of  their  vessel  on  the  stocks, 
which  was  dosigned  by  the  savages.  The  workmen  were  almost 
disheartened  by  frequent  alarms,  and  would  have  abandoned 
the  work  had  they  not  been  cheered  by  the  good  father,  who 

♦  There  can  be  but  little  doubt  that  the  place  they  selected  for  building 
their  baric  was  the  moutti  of  the  Cayuga  Creelt,  about  six  miles  a*>ove  the 
falls.  Governor  Cass  says  "  the  vessel  was  launched  at  Erie ;"  School- 
craft, in  his  Journal,  says,  "  near  BufTalo  ;"  and  the  historian  Bancroft  lo- 
cates the  site  at  tlie  mouth  of  Tonawanda  Creek.  Hennepin  says  the 
mouth  of  the  creek  was  two  leagues  above  the  great  falls ;  the  mouth  of 
the  Tonawanda  is  more  than  twice  that  distance,  and  the  Cayuga  is  th' 
oaly  stream  that  answers  to  the  description. 

t  Now  Kingston,  Canada. 

15» 


■''■-^l 


'■^ 


,c,. 


if.  (*i  * 


I,  ?f 


'f  fV 


174 


UPPER    LAKES 


represented  tne  great  advantage  their  perseverance  would  afford, 
and  how  much  their  success  would  redound  to  the  glory  of  God. 
These  and  other  inducements  accelerated  the  work,  and  the  I 
vessel  was  soon  ready  to  be  launched,  though  not  entirely 
finished.  Chantine  Te  Deum,  and  firing  three  guns,  they  com- 
mitted her  to  the  river  amid  cries  of  joy,  and  swung  their  ham- 
mocKS  in  security  from  the  wild  beasts,  and  still  more  dreaded 
Indians. 

"  When  the  Senecas  returned  from  their  expedition,  they 
were  greatly  astonished  at  the  floating  fort.  '  which  struck 
terror  among  all  the  savages  who  lived  on  the  great  lakes  and 
rivers  within  fifteen  hundred  miles.*  Hennepin  ascended  the 
river  in  a  bark  canoe  with  one  of  his  companions  as  far  as  Lake 
Erie.  They  twice  pulled  the  canoe  up  the  rapids,  and  sounded 
the  lake  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  depth.  He  re- 
ported that  with  a  favorable  north  or  northwest  wind  the  vessel 
could  ascend  to  the  lake,  and  then  sail  without  diflficulty  over 
its  whole  extent.  Soon  after  the  vessel  was  launched  in  the  cur- 
rent of  Niagara,  about  four  fxnd  a  half  miles  from  the  lake. 
Hennepin  left  it  for  Fort  Frontenac,  and  returning  with  La 
Salle  and  two  other  fathers,  Gabriel  and  Zenobe  Mambre, 
anchored  in  the  Niagara  the  80th  July,  1679.  On  the  4th  of 
August  they  reached  the  dock  where  the  ship  was  built,  which 
he  calls  distant  eighteen  miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  and  pro- 
ceeded from  thence  in  a  bark  canoe  to  their  vessel,  which  thev 
found  at  anchor  three  miles  from  the  '  beautiful  Lake  Erie.' 

"  The  vessel  was  of  60  tons  burden,  completely  rigged,  and 
found  with  all  the  necessaries,  arms,  provisions,  and  merchan- 
dise ;  it  had  seven  small  pieces  of  cannon  on  board,  two  of  which 
were  of  brass.  There  was  a  griffin  flying  at  the  jib-boom,  and 
an  eagle  above.  There  were  also  the  ordinary  ornaments  and 
other  fixtures  which  usually  grace  a  ship  of  war. 

*'  They  endeavored  many  times  to  ascend  the  current  of  the 
Niagara  into  Lake  Erie  without  success,  the  wind  not  being 
strong  enough.  While  they  were  thug  detained,  La  Salle  em- 
ployed a  few  of  his  men  in  clearing  some  land  on  the  Cana<iian 
shore,  opposite  the  vessel,  and  in  sowing  some  vegetable  seeds 
for  the  benefit  of  those  who  might  inhabit  the  place. 

•'  At  length  the  wind  being  favorable,  they  lightened  the 
vessel  by  sending  most  of  the  crew  on  shore,  and  with  the  »fid 
of  their  sails  and  ten  or  a  dozen  men  at  the  tow-lines,  ascended 
the  current  into  Lake  Erie.  Thus  on  the  7th  of  August,  1079, 
the  first  vessel  set  sail  on  the  untried  waters  of  Lake  Erie. 
They  steered  southwest,  after  having  chanted  their  never-fail- 
ing Te  Deuniy  and  discharged  their  artillery  in  the  presence 
of  a  vast  n^lltnber  of  Seneca  warriors.  It  had  been  reported  to 
our  voyagers  that  Lake  Erie  was  full  of  breakers  and  sand* 


UPPER   LAKES. 


175 


banks,  which  rendered  a  safe  navigation  impossible;  they 
therefore  kept  the  lead  going,  sounding  from  time  to  time,  to 
avoid  danger. 

<'  After  sailing,  without  difficulty,  through  Lake  Erie,  they 
arrived  on  the  11th  of  August  at  the  mouth  of  the  Detroit 
River,  sailing  up  which  they  arrived  at  St.  Clair,  to  which  they 
gave  the  name  it  bears.  After  being  detained  several  days  by 
contrary  winds  at  the  bottom  of  the  St.  Clair  River,  they  at 
length  succeeded  in  entering  Lake  Huron  on  the  23d  of  August, 
chanting  Te  Deum  through  gratitude  for  a  safe  navigation 
thus  far.  Passing  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake,  they 
sailed  with  a  fresh  and  favorable  wind  until  evening,  when  the 
wind  suddenly  veered,  driving  them  across  Saginaw  Bay 
(Sacinaw).  The  storm  raged  until  the  24th,  and  was  succeeded 
by  a  calm,  which  continued  until  next  day  noon  (25th),  when 
they  pursued  their  course  until  midnight.  As  tliey  doubled  a 
point  which  advanced  into  the  lake,  they  were  suddenly  struck 
by  a  furious  wind,  which  forced  them  to  run  behind  the  cape 
for  safety.  On  the  26th,  the  violence  of  the  storm  compelled 
them  to  send  down  their  topmasts  and  yards,  and  to  stand  in, 
for  they  could  find  neither  anchorage  nor  shelter. 

"  It  was  then  the  stout  heart  of  La  Salle  failed  him ;  the 
whole  crew  fell  upon  their  knees  to  say  their  prayers  and  pre- 
pare for  death,  except  the  pilot,  whom  they  could  not  compel  to 
follow  their  example,  and  who,  on  the  contrary,  *  did  nothing 
all  that  time  but  curse  and  swear  against  M.  La  Salle,  who  had 
brought  him  thither  to  make  him  perish  in  a  nasty  lake,  and 
lose  the  glory  he  had  acquired  by  his  long  and  happy  naviga- 
tion on  the  ocean.*  On  the  27th.  favored  with  less  adverse 
winds,  they  arrived  during  the  night  at  Michilimackinac,  and 
anchored  in  the  bay,  where  they  report  six  fathoms  of  water 
and  a  clay  bottom.  This  bay  they  state  is  protected  on  the 
southwest,  west,  and  northwest,  but  open  to  the  south.  The 
sa'  uges  were  struck  dumb  with  astonishment  at  the  size  of  their 
vessel  and  the  noise  of  their  guns. 

•'  Here  they  regaled  themseWes  on  the  delicious  trout,  which 
they  described  as  being  from  60  to  60  pounds  in  vreight,  and  as 
affording  the  parages  their  principal  subsistence.  On  the  2d 
of  September,  1679,  they  left  Muckinac.  entered  Lake  Michigan 
(Illinois),  and  sailed  40  leagues  to  an  island  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Bay  of  Puara  (Green  Bay).  From  this  place  La  Salle  de- 
tertiined  to  send  back  the  ship  laden  with  furs  to  Niacara. 
Tiie  pilot  and  five  men  embarked  in  her,  and  on  the  lOtn  she 
fired  a  gun  and  set  sail  on  her  return  with  a  favorable  wind. 
Nothing  more  was  hoard  from  her,  and  she  undoubtedly  foun- 
dered in  Lake  Huron,  with  all  on  board.  Her  cargo  was  rich, 
and  valued  at  60,000  livres. 


>!. 


P 


IB  m. 


\t,t 


'*■  I 


Jp  " 


II';.* 


.  'V'  n 


,.l. 


i  ^ 


176 


NAVIGATION    OF    THE    LAK!<:S. 


"  Thus  ended  the  first  voyage  of  the  first  ship  that  sailed  over 
the  Western  Lakes.  What  a  contrast  is  presented  between  the 
silent  waves  and  unbroken  forests  which  witnessed  the  course 
of  that  adventurous  bark,  and  the  busy  hum  of  commerce  whicii 
now  rises  from  the  fertile  bottoms,  and  the  thousand  ships  and 
smoking  palaces  which  now  furrow  the  surface  of  those  inland 
seas! 


NAVIGATION   OF   THE   LAKES. 

From  the  Buffalo  Commercial  Advertiser — 1S48. 

"I  HAVE  noticed  several  communications  in  your  paper  re- 
cently, in  relation  to  the  early  Navigation  of  the  Likes  by 
American  vessels,  and  as  you  solicit  further  communications  on 
the  subject.  I  give  you  such  facts  as  1  am  acquainted  with,  and 
will  add,  that  in  regard  to  many  of  them  I  have  vouchers  to 
establish  their  correctness. 

*'  I  first  visited  Lake  Erie  and  the  Niagara  Biver  in  August, 
1795 ;  and  from  an  early  period,  until  within  the  last  twenty 
years,  have  been  more  or  less  interested  in  the  navigation  of 
the  lakes. 

"  It  is  well  known  that  the  military  posts  of  Oswego,  Niagara, 
Detroit,  and  Mackinac  were  not  surrendered  to  the  United  States 
until  the  fore  part  of  the  year  1796,  under  Jay's  treaty.  Boats 
had  not  been  permitted  to  pass  Oswego  into  Lake  Ontario,  and 
as  no  settlements  of  importance  had  been  made  previous  to  that 
time  on  the  American  shores  of  the  lakes  (excepting  the  old 
French  settlements  in  the  neighborhood  of  these  ports,  and  they 
were  under  the  jurisdiction  and  influence  of  the  British  govern- 
ment), no  vessels  were  required,  and,  of  course,  none  had  been 
built. 

**  In  August,  1795, 1  left  Canandaigua  on  a  journey  to  Presque 
Isle—now  Erie,  Pennsylvania.  The  country  west  of  Genesee 
River,  excepting  a  tract  twelve  miles  in  width  extending  from 
opposite  Avon  along  the  river  to  its  mouth,  had  not  then  been 
purchased  of  the  Indians,  and  no  roads  opened.  We,  of  course, 
followed  the  Indian  trail  to  ."*  iffalo. 

"  At  that  time  the  only  residents  at  that  place,  as  far  nsl 
recollect,  Avere  William  Johnson,  the  British  Indian  interpreter, 
whose  house  stood  on  the  site  of  the  present  Mansion  House,  an 
Indian  trader  named  Winneo,  a  negro  named  Joe,  also  a  trader, 
both  of  whom  resided  on  the  flfita  near  the  mouth  of  Little 
Buffalo,  and  a  Dutchman  by  the  name  of  Middough,  with  a 
family,  who  resided  some  forty  or  fifty  rods  east  of  Johnson's. 
A  large  portion  of  the  ground  now  occupied  by  your  beautiful 
city  was  then  an  unbroken  wilderness. 


NAVIGATION    OF    THE    LAKES. 


177 


it  sailed  over 
between  the 
the  course 
merce  which 
nd  ships  and 
those  inlani 


ur  pnper  re- 
le  Likes  by 
mications  on 
ed  with,  and 
vouchers  to 

r  in  August, 

last  twenty 

lavigation  of 

igo,  Niagara, 
Jnited  States 
eaty.  Boats 
Ontario,  and 
vious  to  that 
ting  the  old 
rts,  and  they 
itish  govern- 
me  had  been 

3y  to  Presque 
b  of  Genesee 
ending  from 
lot  then  been 
i' e,  of  course, 

3,  as  far  as  I 
I  interpreter, 
on  House,  an 
lIso  a  trader, 
Lith  of  Little 
>ugh,  with  ft 
)f  Johnson's. 
mr  beautiful 


"  At  that  time  I  am  not  aware  that  a  single  vessel  was  owned 
on  the  Unit^id  States  side  of  the  lakes,  and  remember  that  Capt. 
Lee,  who  would  have  known,  informed  me  that  there  were  none. 

"  In  1796  I  was  employed  by  the  Connecticut  Land  Company 
to  survey  the  Western  Reserve,  and  I  prepared  to  go  on  early 
in  the  season,  with  several  other  surveyors,  and  a  party  of  men 
to  perform  the  work.  At  Schenectady  we  fitted  out  three  bat- 
teaux,  manned  by  four  hands  each,  with  the  necesstrry  articles 
for  the  expedition,  such  as  tents,  blanketo,  cooking  utensils, 
groceries,  etc.,  with  a  quantity  of  dry  goods,  designed  as  pres- 
ents to  the  Indians. 

"  These  boats  were  put  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Joshua  Stow, 
uncle  of  Judge  Stow,  of  Buffalo  Understanding  that  the  mil- 
itary posts  at  Oswego  and  Niagara  were  to  be  given  up  to  the 
United  State-j  early  this  spring,  under  a  stipulation  in  Jay's 
treaty,  Mr.  Stow  took  ttie  route  by  Oswego  and  Niagara  to 
Queenston.  On  his  arrival  at  Oswego,  that  port  had  not  been 
surrendered,  and  the  boats  were  not  permitted  to  pass.  Deter- 
mined not  to  be  delayed,  Mr.  Stow  took  the  boats  a  mile  or  two 
up  the  river,  and  the  night  following  ran  them  past  the  fort 
into  the  lake  and  ifiursued  his  voyage,  and  before  arriving  at 
Niagiua  that  post  nad  passed  into  the  possession  of  our  troops. 
He  landed  at  Queenston,  had  his  boats  and  loading  taken  to 
Chippewa,  where  he  took  in  provisions  to  compete  his  cargoes, 
which  had  been  purchased  at  Canandaigua,  and  forwarded  by 
the  way  of  Irondequoit  and  the  lake  in  open  boats,  and  arrived 
a  day  or  two  before. 

"  At  Buffalo  he  was  met  by  others  of  the  party,  who  had 
come  on  by  land,  among  these,  Gen.  Moses  Cleveland,  one  of 
the  directors  of  the  Connecticut  Land  Company  (from  whom 
the  city  of  Cleveland  took  its  name),  who,  by  way  of  securing 
the  good-will  ^t  the  Indians  to  the  expedition,  held  a  council 
and  distributed  presents  among  them.  The  expedition  went  on 
from  here,  a  paio  by  the  boats,  and  a  part  by  land  with  pack- 
horses,  and  arri\ed  at  the  mouth  of  Conneaut  Creek  on  the  4th 
of  July,  1796,  and  celebrated  the  day.  The  party  then  con- 
sisted of  fifty- two  persons. 

At  this  time,  as  we  ascertained,  there  was  not  a  white  person 
residing  on  the  Reserve,  excepting  a  French  family  just  within 
the  iiouth  of  Sandusky  Bay. 

"  Oi>e  of  our  boats  was  employed  during  the  season  in  bring- 
ing up  supplies  of  provisions  from  Chippewa,  and  in  October, 
on  her  up  trip,  was  wrecktMi  in  a  gale  off  the  mouth  of  Chau- 
tuuque  Creek,  and  Tinker,  the  master,  drowned. 

"  No  American  vvissels  had  yet  been  built,  and  some  of  the 
baggage  and  stores  for  the  troops  at  Detroit  had  l)een  trans- 
ported from  Western  Pennsylvania  by  the  contractor,  Gen. 


it 


"in 


r<  m 


h 


178 


NAVIGATION    OF   THB    LAKES. 


It 


■3 

k 


I'-t 


II. 


I 


w..,^-^ 

.!'» 


w\  - 


O'Hara,  up  the  valley  of  the  BJg  Beavf  r,  and  t)iroagh  the  v/ii- 
den  less  to  Detroit,  on  pack-horses. 

•'  Between  the  years  of  1796  and  1800  (I  »4m  uaobTo  to  par- 
ticwlurize  the  year),  the  schooner  Gen,  Tracy  rap  b'l'It  at  De- 
troit, and  in  August,  1808,  purchased  by  P.rte'.>  Bar  .on  &  Co. 
and  thoroughly  repaired,  and  on  her  second  or  third  trip  was 
wrecked  on  the  Fort  Erie  reef  in  1809. 

"  The  brig  Adams,  a  government  vessel,  was  built  about  the 
same  time  as  the  Gen.  Tracy,  and  was  sailed  by  Capt.  Srevoort 
"for  a  number  of  years.     She  was  built  at  Detroit. 

*'  A  small  vessel  called  the  Good  Intent  was  built  ;t  Presque 
Isle  by  Capt.  Wm.  Lee,  and  I  believe  was  partly,  and  perhaps 
wholly,  owned  by  Rufns  S.  Reed.  She,  I  think,  was  built  about 
1800,  and  wrecked  near  Point  Abino  in  1805. 

**  In  1802  the  schooner  Gen.  Wilkinson,  of  70  tons,  was  built  at 
Detroit,  and  in  1811  thoroughly  repaired,  and  her  name  changed 
to  Amelia.     She  was  sold  to  the  United  States  during  the  war. 

"  In  the  winter  of  1802  and  '3  the  sloop  Contractor,  of  6! 
tons,  was  built  at  Black  Rock  by  the  company  having  the  gov- 
ernment contract  for  the  supply  of  the  militur^  posts,  under 
the  superintendence  of  Captain  \Villiam  Lee,  by  whom  she  was 
sailed  until  1809,  and  afterward  ty  Capt.  Jftinv,^  Beard.  In 
1803  or  '4  a  small  sloop  called  th-;  Niagara,  cC  30  tons,  was 
built  at  Cayuga  Creek,  on  the  Niagara  River,  by  she  U.  S. 
government,  but  not  put  in  commission.  She  was  purchased 
by  Porter,  Barton  &  Co.  in  1806,  and  her  name  changed  to  the 
Nancy,  and  sailed  by  Captain  Richard  ONeil. 

"  In  1806  the  schooner  Mary,  of  105  tons,  Aas  built  at  Erie 
by  Thomas  Wilson,  and  purchased  the  one  half  by  James  Rough 
and  George  Bueshler,  and  the  other  half  by  Porter,  Barton  & 
Co.  in  1808,  and  sailed  'aptain  Rough  until  the  war,  and 
then  sold  to  the  United  t       s. 

"  In  1808  Porter,  Barton  &  Co.  purchased  the  schooner  Ran- 
ger of  George  Wilber,  then  several  years  old — she  was  repaired 
and  sailed  by  Capt.  Hathaway.  In  1810  the  sloop  Erie  was 
built  at  Black  Rock  bj  Porter,  Barton  &  Co. ,  and  sold  to  the 
United  States  in  time  of  the  war.  The  schooner  Salina,  sailed 
by  Capt.  Dobbins,  and  the  schooner  Eleanor,  and  probably 
others  that  I  do  not  recollect,  were  built  and  sailed  before  the 
w£  r,  but  I  am  unable  to  say  where  and  when  they  were  built, 
or  by  whom  owned. 

'*  On  Lake  Ontario  I  find  that  previous  to  1809,  and  during 
^  hat  year,  the  following  vessels  had  been  built,  and  were  en- 
gaged in  the  commerce  of  the  lake  :  Schooner  Fair  American, 
owned  by  M  .cthew  M'Nair,  of  Oswego.  Theophilus  Pease,  mas- 
tei  ;  also,  suhooners  Lark,  island  Packet,  Eagle,  Mary,  Farmer, 
Two  Broiutjrs,  Experiment,  and  Democrat, 


"  Some  t 
l^    f  v»  ouilt, 
*'       "In  1801 
Barton  &  C 
the  war. 

"  In  1801 
lower  end  ( 
to  Lewiatoi 
Barton  &  C 

"  In  addi 
commission 
Charles  am 

"  A  num 
ing  the  wai 
ployed  in  tl 

"  The  foi 
vessels  own( 
aed  it  is  n( 
piete  one. 


Noub;. — I 
was  built  a 
about  thirty 
In  1822  t 
was  built; 
period  to 
Since  1830 
Lake  Erie  i 
Nidded. 


NAVIGATION    OP   THE    LAKEB. 


179 


II 


;h  tiievii- 

>Tv)  to  par- 
AJit  at  De- 
r:ou  &  Co. 
d  trip  was 

ftbout  the 
t.  Brevoort 

at  Presque 
id  perhaps 
built  about 

'•as  built  at 
le  changed 
5  the  war. 
ctor,  of  6i 
ig  the  gov- 
osts,  under 
L)m  she  was 
Beard.  In 
)  tons,  was 

r,he  U.  S. 

purchased 
iged  to  the 

lilt  at  Erie 
mea  Hough 
',  Barton  & 
LO  war,  and 

ooner  Ran- 
as  repaired 
Erie  was 
sold  to  the 
ina,  sailed 
probably 
before  the 
were  built, 

ind  during 
d  were  en- 
American, 
:*ease,  mas- 
•y,Fftrraer, 


"  Some  time  preTior  to  the  war  the  United  States  biig  Oneida 
f »»«  ouilt,  and  comma  ided  by  Captain  Woolsey. 

"  In  1809  the  schooner  Ontario,  of  70  t«t>«  via  bnil t  by  Po^W, 
Barton  &  Co.  at  Lewist  jii,  and  sold  to  the  United  Stc  tou  Juring 
the  war. 

"  In  1809  the  schooner  Cambria  was  built  on  an  island  at  the 
lower  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  brought  in  an  nnfinished  state 
to  Lewiston,  where  she  was  parohased  and  fitted  out  by  Porter , 
Barton  &  Co. ,  and  her  name  changed  to  Niagara. 

"  In  addition  to  the  foregoing  vessels,  the  following  were  in 
commission  in  1810 :  Schooner  Diana,  sloop  Marion,  schooners 
Charles  and  Ann,  Gold  Hunter,  end  Genesee  Packet. 

*'  A  number  of  vessels  on  both  lakes,  owned  and  armed  dur- 
ing the  war  by  the  United  States,  were  afterward  sold  and  em- 
ployed in  the  commerce  of  the  lakes. 

"  The  foregoing  is  a  very  imperfect  history  of  the  American 
vessels  owned  and  employed  on  the  lakes  previous  to  the  war, 
and  it  is  not  probable  that  any  individual  can  furnish  a  com- 
plete one.    As  far  as  it  goes,  I  believe  it  to  be  tolerably  correct. 

"  Aug's  Porter." 

NoiJ!:.— In  1818  the  first  steamboat,  "  ^alk-in-thc- Water," 
was  built  at  Black  Rock ;  at  which  time  there  were,  in  all, 
about  thirty  sail  of  vessels  on  the  Upper  Lakes. 

In  1822  the  Superior  (1st.)  was  built ;  in  1824  the  Chippewa 
wa^  built;  and  in  1825  three  more  were  added;  from  this 
period  to  1830  four  more  steamers  were  added  to  the  list. 
Since  1830  about  two  hundred  steamers  have  been  built  on 
Lake  Erie  and  the  Upper  Lakes,  a  list  of  which  is  hereafter 

Ided. 


s> 


"ll 


1^  ^ 


MAGNITUDE  OF  THE  LAKES. 


I 


LcUee  Superior,  at  a  height  of  600  feet  above  the  sea,  is  420 
miles  long,  160  miles  broad,  and  1,000  feet  deep.  It  discharges 
its  waters  by  the  strait,  or  river  St.  Mary,  50  miles  long,  into 
Lake  Huron,  which  lies  27  feet  below. 

Lake  Michigan,  576  feet  above  the  sea,  is  320  miles  long,  82 
miles  broad,  and  900  feet  deep.  It  discharges  its  surplus 
waters  through  the  Strait  of  Mackinac,  50  miles  in  length,  into 
Lake  Huron,  nearly  on  a  level. 

Green  Bay,  at  about  tbe  same  elevation  as  Lake  Michigan, 
is  100  miles  long,  20  miles  broad,  and  60  feet  deep. 

Lake  Huron,  at  a  height  of  574  feet  above  the  sea,  is  260 
miles  long,  110  miles  broad,  and  900  feet  deep. 

Georgian,  Bay,  lying  northeast  of  Lake  Huron  and  of  the 
same  altitude,  is  130  miles  lorg  and  55  miles  broad.  All  the 
above  bodies  of  wator,  in  ta  which  are  discharged  a  great  number 
ot  streams,  find  an  outlet  by  the  river  and  Lake  St.  Clair,  and 
Detroit  River  or  Strait,  in  all  about  90  miles  long,  with  a 
fall  of  U  feet  into 

LrJre  Erie,  the  fourth  great  lake  of  this  immense  chain. 
This  latter  lake  again,  at  an  elevation  above  the  sea^  of  564  feet, 
250  miles  long,  60  miles  broad,  and  204  feet  at  its  greatest 
depcb,  but,  on  an  average,  considerably  less  than  100  feet  deep, 
di'S'charges  its  surplus  waters  by  the  Niagara  River  and  Falls 
into  lake  Ontario,  330  feet  below ;  51  feet  of  this  descent  being 
iii  tlie  «*apids  immediately  above  the  Falls,  160  feet  at  the  Falls 
thOiiJSfcl  -^es,  and  the  rest  chiefly  in  the  rapids  between  the  Falls 
aitd  the  mouth  of  the  river,  35  miles  below  Lake  Erie. 

iMke  Ontario,  the  fifth  and  last  of  the  Great  Lakes  of  Amer- 
ica, is  elevated  234  feet  above  tide- water  at  Three  Rivers  on  the 
St.  Lawrence;  it  is  180  milos  long,  60  miles  broad,  600  feet 
deep.     Thus  basin  succetKls  basin,  like  the  looks  of  a  great 


cana  *  the 

Gulf  »f  .3t 

large  cla&« 

enabling  a 

the  level  oi 

pcrior  has  ] 

ficial  extent 

Ontario  ha 

that  of  La] 

Lake  Erie, 

shores.     La 

tion,  and  L{ 

perature  in 

ature  of  air 

bottom  63°. 

scientific  tri 

Bay  and  No 

turesque  ish 

of  the  Uppc 

>unmier  and 

The  altitu 

Upper  Lake 

level  of  the 

the  water-sl 

of  the  St.  Lj 

level  of  the 

Jfew  York. 

The  divide 
from  those  fl 
some  places 
Michigan  an 
when  under 
^d,  discha 
River,  and  t 
low  is  the  di^ 


MAGNITUDE  OF  THE  LAKES. 


181 


e  sea,  is  420 
[t  discharges 
es  long,  into 

ailes  long,  82 
I  its  surplus 
1  length,  into 

^e  Michigan, 

e  sea,  is  260 

in  and  of  the 
oad.  All  the 
great  number 
Bt.  Clair,  and 
long,  with  a 

Lmense  chain, 
ea^  of  564  feet, 
,t  its  greatest 
100  feet  deep, 
ver  and  Falls 
descent  being 
Bt  at  the  Falls 
ireen  the  Falls 
Erie. 

lakes  of  Amer- 
B  Rivers  on  the  I 

>road,  600  feet 
ks  of  a  great 


cana  *  tbe  whole  length  of  waters  from  Lake  Superior  to  the 
Gulf  »f  3t.  Lawrence  being  rendered  nayigable  for  vessels  of  a 
large  cla&9  by  means  of  the  Welland  and  other  canals— thus 
enabling  a  loaded  vessel  to  ascend  or  descend  600  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  or  tide- water.    Of  these  lakes.  Lake  Su 
pcrior  has  by  far  the  largest  area,  being  nearly  equal  in  supei 
ficial  extent  to  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan  together,  and  Lake 
Ontario  has  the  least,  having  a  surface  only  about  one  fifth  of 
that  of  Lake  Superior,  and  being  somewhat  less  in  area  than 
Lake  Erie,  although  not  much  less,  if  any,  in  the  circuit  of  itj^ 
shores.    Lake  Ontario  is  the  safest  body  of  water  for  naviga- 
tion, and  Lake  Erie  the  most  dangerous.    The  ascertained  tern 
perature  in  the  midde  of  Lake  Erie,  August,  1845,  was  temper 
ature  of  air  76°  Fahrenheit,  at  noon — ^water  at  surface  73° — at 
bottom  53°.    The  lakes  of  greatest  interest  to  the  tourist  or 
scientific  traveler  are  Ontario,  Huron,  together  with  Georgian 
Bay  and  North  Channel,  and  Lake  Superior.    The  many  pic- 
turesque islands  and  headlands,  together  with  the  pure  waters 
of  the  Upper  Lakes,  form  a  most  lovely  contrast  during  the 
summer  and  autumn  months. 

The  altitude  of  the  land  which  forms  the  water-shed  of  the 
Upper  Lakes  does  not  exceed  from  600  to  2,500  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean,  while  the  altitude  of  the  land  which  forms 
the  water-shed  of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  lower  tributaries 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  rises  from  4,000  to  5,00C  above  the 
IcTel  of  the  sea  or  tide -water,  in  the  States  of  Vermont  and 
New  York. 

The  divide  which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico, 
from  those  flowing  northeast  into  the  St,  Lawrence,  do  not  in 
some  places  exceed  ten  or  twenty  feet  above  the  le vol  of  Lakes 
Michigan  and  Superior;  in  fact,  it  is  said  that  Lake  Michigan, 
when  under  the  influence  of  high  water  and  a  strong  northerly 
wind,  discharges  some  of  its  surplus  waters  into  the  Illinois 
RiTer,  and  thence  into  the  Mississippi  and  Gulf  of  Mexico — so 
low  is  the  divide  at  its  southern  terminus. 

16 


iTt::!-  ,x 


pvi 


i-  "if 


— ,- 


m 


183 


MAGNITUDE    OF   THE    LAKKd. 


'ijii' 


COAST  LINE  OF  THE  GREAT  LAKES  AND  SHORES  OF  THE 
ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER,  ETC. 

AMERICAN    ilDE. 

State*,  etc.  Coast  Line.  Boundaries. 

Minnesota,L.  Superior y  160  ms.    Pigeon  River  to  mouth  St.  Louis 

River. 


Wisconsin, 
Michigan, 


« 


(( 


120  " 
430  " 


"  St.  Mary's  River  60  " 
"  Huron  and  Strait  100  " 
L.  Michigan^       60  " 


(( 


Wisconsin,     " 
Illinois,  " 


200  " 
60  " 


Indiana, 


C( 


40 


(( 


Michigan,      "         ...  300  ♦* 
'*  Strait  of  Mackinac    60  «* 


<c 


L.  Huron, 


260 


(C 


"  St.  Clair  River. 

"  St.  Clair  Lake . . 

"  Detroit  River  . , 
Michigan,    Erie, 
Ohio, 


«i 


Pennsylvania,  " 
New  York, 


(( 


88  « 
30  " 
27  " 
80  « 
180  " 

40  « 
70  « 


"  Niagara  River, . .     S5  ** 
New  York,  X.  OAi^arto,  180  *• 

"  St.  Lawrence  R.  100  V 

Lower  Canada,   "   .    .  666  *' 

Total  miles    ...  3,206 


St.  Louis  River  to  mouth  Mon- 
treal River. 

Montreal  River  to  mouth  St. 
Mary's  River. 

Saut  Ste  Marie  to  Pt.  do  Tour. 

Pt.  de  Tour  to  Pt.  Seuil  Choix. 

Pt.  Seuil  Choix  to  Green  Bay. 

Green  Bay  to  111.  State  line 

Illinois  State  Une  to  Indiana 
State  line. 

Indiana  State  line  to  Michigan 
State  line. 

State  line  to  Strait  of  Mackinac. 

Fox  Point  to  Lake  Huron. 

Strait  of  Mackinac  to  mouth 
St.  Clair  River. 

Fort  Gratiot  to  Lake  St.  Cl&ir. 

West  shore. 

Lake  St.  Clair  to  Lake  Erie. 

Detroit  River  to  Maumee  Bay. 

Maumee  Bay  to  Penn.  State 
line. 

State  line  to  N.  York  State  line. 

State  line  to  mouth  Niagara 
River. 

Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario. 

Mouth  Niagara  River  to  St. 
Lawrence  River. 

Lake  Ontario  to  45th  degree 
N.  lat, 

St.  Regis  to  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence. 


COAST    LINE — CANADIAN   SIDE. 


Lake  Superior ... 460  ms.     Pigeon  River  to  St.  Mary's  R. 

St.  Mary's  River 60*'      Saut    Ste    Marie  to  foot   St 

Joseph  Island. 


)RE3  OP  THE 


to  mouth  Men* 


tie  to  Michigan 


;o  Penn.  State 


If  of  St.  Law- 


yAONITUOL  OF  THE  JAKES.  1S3 

L.  Huron,  (JV.  Chan.)  145  ms.    St.  Joseph  Islana  to  Georgifm 

Bay 
"  (^Georgian  Bay)  230  "      Shebawanahning   to    Collirg- 

wood  and  Cabot's  Head. 

Lake  Huron,  {proper)  200  ♦'      Cabot's    Head    to    mouth  St. 

Claiir  River. 

St.  Clair  River 88  "      Port  Sarnia  to  Lake  St.  Clair. 

St.  Clair  Lake 80  "      East  shore 

Detroit  River 27  ••      Lake  St.  Clair  to  Lake  Erie. 

Lake  Erie 250"      Mouth    of    Detroit    River    to 

Niagara  River. 

Niagara  River 36  "      Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario. 

Lake  Ontario 230  "      Mouth  Niagara  River  to  Ham- 
ilton and  foot  of  Lake. 

St.  Lawrence  River. . .  766  "      Lake  Ontario  to  Gulf  of  St. 

Lawrence. 

Total  miles. 2,451 

Grand  Total,  Lake  and  River  Coast,  5,657  miles. 


TEIBUTARIES  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 

UxLiKE  the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi,  the  streams  falling 
into  the  Great  Lakes  or  the  St.  Lawrence  River  are  mostly  rapid, 
and  navigable  only  for  a  short  distance  from  their  mouths. 

The  following  are  the  principal  rivers  that  are  navigable  for 
any  considerable  length : 

AMERICAN  SIDE.  MUeS. 

St  Louis  River,  Min Superior  to  Fond  du  Lac.  20 

Fox,  or  Neenp.h,  Wis Green  Bay  to  L.  Winnebago  36 

St.  Joseph,  Mich St.  Joseph  to  Niles 26 

Grand  River,   "    Grand  Haven  to  Gd.  Rapids  43 

Muskegon,        **    Muskegon  to  Newaygo 40 

Saginaw,  "    Saginaw  Bay  to  Upper  Sag.  26 

Maumee,  Ohio Maumee  Bay  to  Perrysb'h.   18 

Genesee,  N.  Y Charlotte  to  Rochester 0 

CANADIAN  SIDE.  Miles. 

Thames Lake  St.  Clair  to  Chatham  24 

Ottawa La  CLine  to  Carillon 40 

"     ....    {By  means  of  locks  to  Ot- 
tawa City) 70 

Richelieu  or  Sorel Sorel  to  Lake  Champlain 

{by  means  of  locks)  . .  75 

Saguenay Tadusac  to  Chicoutimi ....  70 

(thence  to  Lake  St.  John,  50  m. ) 


184 


MAGNITUDE    OF    THK    LAKBS. 


^ 


8T.  LAWRENCE  BIVEB  AND  LAKE   NAVIGATION,  FROM 

FOND  DU  LAO,  LAKE  SUPERIOR,  TO  ANTICOSTL 

Lakkh.  HivKM    KTC                       I^nnthln  OientMt  Av.              D.mth*  El.  ihori 

I^AKKH,  UIVERK,  KTC.                                ,|,„^_^  blM.lttl.  bf  U.I  111.            Ill  f.et.           i.». 

Superior 420  160  80         1,000      COO 

St.  Mary's  River 50  4  1 

Michigan 880  82  58            000      576 

Green  Bay 100  25  18            loO      576 

Strait  of  Maokinao 30  20  10  40  to  200 

Huron 260  110  70            900      574 

North  Channel 160  20  10            200      574 

Georgian  Bay 140  55  40            500      574 

St.  Clair  River 38  1 

St.  Clair  Lake*  20  25  15      8  to  20      668 

Detroit  River 27  3  1 

Lake  Erie 250  GO  38            204      565 

Niagara  River  . .    35  3  1 

Lake  Ontario 180  58  40            600      235 

St.  Lawrence  River .766  60  2 

Lake  St.  Francis 8  142 

Lake  St.  Louis,  ^  •  •  • 

Mouth  Ottawa  River,  5  . . .  5  58 

Elevation  at  Montreal ,  13 

Tide- water  at  Thred  Rivers.  0 

Total  miles 2,806 


♦  The  St.  Clair  Flata^  which  have  to  be  passed  by  all  large  steamers 
and  sail  vessels  ranning  trom.  Lake  Erie  to  the  Upper  Lakes,  now  afforda 
only  eight  or  ten  feet  of  water,  the  channel  being  very  narrow  and 
intricate.      An  appropriati'^'a,  however,  h,a8  recently  been  made  by  the 

government  of  the  Unitea  States  for  improving  the  channel  through  the 
t.  Clair  Flats,  which,  no  doubt,  will  effectually  remove  the  obstruction  to 
navigation. 

NoTB. — Lakk  Baikal,  the  most  extensive  bo^.y  of  fresh  water  on  the 

Eastern  Continent,  situated  in  Southern  Siberia,  between  lat  51°  and  56° 

north,  is  about  870  miles  in  length,  45  miles  average  width,  and  about 

900  miles  in  circuit;  being  somewhat  largor  than  Lake  Erie  in  area. 

Its  depth  in  some  places  is  very  great,  being  in  part  surrounded  by  high 

mountains.    The  YmUei,  its  outlet,  flows  north  into  the  Arctic  Ocean 


)N,  FROM 
:OSTL 

D.'nth      El.  «ho»f 

II   fi-C't.  iCB. 

1,000    coo 


000  576 

loO  076 
3  200 

900  574 

200  574 

500  574 

to  20      568 

204      565 

600      235 

142 

58 

13 

0 


LIST  0^  STEAMERS  BUILT  ON  LAKE  ERIE,  ETC.. 
SINCE  THEIR  FIRST  INTRODUCTION  IN  1818. 


irge  steamers 
9,  now  aflfords 
narrow  and 
made  by  the 
;1  through  the 
obstruction  to 

water  on  the 
.  610  and  660 
h,  and  about 
Erie  in  area, 
nded  by  high 
itic  Ocean 


BnlH. 
1818. 
1822. 
1824. 

1825. 


lS2d. 

\m'. 

u 

1830.' 

u 
u 

1881.' 

1882. 

ik 

u 
u 

1888." 

4i 

U 
ti 
(t 
t( 
t( 

1884.' 
tt 

u 

u 

l( 
it 

(i 
t( 
u 
(1 

u 

1S86.' 

• 

i( 

• 

u 

1886." 
u 

u 


Warn*.  ■    T'ln*, 

Walk-ln-the-Wf  ler.   842 

.Superior  (Ist) 800. 

.Cliippewa 100. 

Henry  Clay 848. 

.Pioneer 280. 

.Niagara  (Ist) 180. 

William  Penn 276. 

Enterprise 260. 

Wm.  Peacocic 120. 

.Newburyport 76. 

Sheldon  Thompson.   242. 

.Ohio  (1st)  187. 

.Adelaide  (British)..    280. 

Gratiot 68. 

Pennsylvania 896 . 

.Gen.  Brady 100. 

.Uncle  Sam 280. 

.  Perseverance 60 . 

Washington  (Ist)...    600. 

.New  York 826. 

.Michigan  (1st) 472. 

.Daniel  Webster....    868. 

.Detroit  (1st) 240. 

.Lady  of  the  Lake. .     60. 

.Gov.  Marcy  161. 

.  North  America 862 . 

.Newberry 170. 

.Delaware 170. 

Victory 77. 

Gen.  Porter 842. 

.Jefferson 428. 

Com.  Perry 862. 

.Monroe 841. 

Mazeppa 180. 

Sandusky 877. 

.Minnessetuuk  (Br.)  260. 

.Jackson 60. 

.  Jack  Downing 80 . 

Little  Western  (Br.)     60 . 

Robert  Fulton 803. 

Columbus 891. 

CiiarlesTownsend.    812. 
.United  States......    866. 

.Chicago 166. 

W.F.  P.  Taylor...  96. 
Thames  (British). . ,  160 . 
De  Witt  Clinton....    493: 

Julia  Palmer* 800. 

.Don  Quixote 80. 

.Crockett 18. 


Whei*  built.  Remirkfl. 

.Black  Rock,  N.  T.— wrecked  Nov.,  1821. 
.Bnflhlo,  N.  Y. — changed  to  a  ship. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 
.Lake  Michigan— broken  up. 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— burnt  In  1842. 
.Erie,  Penn.— broken  up. 
.Cleveland,  O.— broken  up. 
.Barcelona,  N.  Y.— exploded  boiler  1880. 
.Erie,  Penn.— broken  up. 
.Huron,  Mich.— broken  up. 
Sandusky,  O.— sunk  1887. 
.Chippewa,  C.  W.— wrecked  1840. 
.Charleston — broken  up. 
.Erie,  Penn.— broken  up. 
.Detroit,  Mich. — broken  up. 
.Grosse  Isle,  Mich.— broken  up. 
.Erie,  Penn.— broken  up. 
.  Huron,  Mich.— wrecked  1888. 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 
.Detroit,  Mich.— broken  up. 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— burnt  1886. 
.Toledo,  O.— wrecked  1886. 
.Mt.  Clemens,  Mich. — broken  up. 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 
.Conneaut,  O.— broken  up. 
.Palmer,  Mich.— broken  up. 
.  Huron,  Mich.— wrecked  .1884." 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— broken  u»  , 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— name  ch.  to  Toronto. 
.Eiie,  Penn.- -broken  up. 
.Perrysburg,  O.— beller  exploded  1835. 
.Monroe,  Mich.- broken  up. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— changed  to  schooner. 
.Sandusky,  O.— burnt  1843. 
.Goderich,  C.  W. — broken  up. 
.Mt  Clemens,  Mich. — broken  up. 
.  Sandusky,  O. — changed  to  schooner. 
.Chatham,  C.  W.— burnt  1842. 
.  Cleveland,  O.— wrecked  in  1842. 
.Htion,  Mich. — broken  up. 
.  Butt'alo,  N.  Y. — broken  up. 
.Huron,  Mich.—broken  up. 
.St  Josephv  Mich.— wrecked  in  1842. 
.Silver  Creek,  N.  Y.— wrecked  I588. 
.Chatham,  C.  W.— burnt  18.38. 
.Huron,  Mich.—broken  up. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 
.Toledo,  0.— wrecked  1886. 
.Brunersburg- wrecked  1844. 


*  Taken  over  khe  portage  at  the  Saut  Ste  Marie  in  1846. 

16* 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


■is  liii   12.2 


I   •    I  >i^         u 


1.8 


1.25   ||.4      1.6 

t 6"     

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s: 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


■^ 


K*     ^\^\ 


'<^ 


'% 


'o 


I/. 


z 


;t?«    ^     ■       S 


186 


LIST    OF    STEAMERS. 


t 


4i 


'    )    .    ■  !■■ 


pre 


«'  -^i:;' 


U'l  "f.               Name.  Tdiis. 

lS;5t5..  Little  Erie 149. 

"    ..Barcelona  (British).    102. 

♦'    ..United  (British)...  40. 

"    ..St.  Clair 250. 

"    ..Cincinnati 116. 

1837.. Illinois  (Ist) 755. 

"    ..Rochester 472. 

"    ..Maf1i.son 630. 

"    ..Cleveland 580. 

"    ..Wisconsin 700. 

*'    ..Erie 497. 

"    ..Constellation 483. 

"    ..Bunker  Hill ^457. 

"    ..Constitution 443. 

"    ..New  England 416. 

"    ..Milwaukee 400. 

"    ..Anthony  Wayne...  890. 

"    ..Macomb 100. 

"    ..Rhode  Island 164. 

"    ..Star 128. 

"    ..Goderlch  (British).  200. 

**    . .  Commerce 80 . 

"    ..Mason 88. 

1838  .Great Western 780. 

"    ..Buffalo 618. 

"    . .  Chesapeake 412 . 

"    ..Vermilion 885. 

"    ..Lexington 868. 

"    ..Fairport 259. 

"    ..Red  Jacket 148. 

*'    . .  Gen.  Vance 75 . 

"    ..James  Allen 258. 

"    ..Washington (2d)...  880. 

"    ..G.  W.  Dale, 162. 

"    . .  C.  C.  Trowbridge . .  52 . 

"    ..Marshall 51. 

"    ..Wabash 84 

"    ..Owashenonk 45. 

"    ..Patronage '...  66. 

1889.. Gen.  Scott 240. 

"    ..Chautauqua 200. 

"    ..Brothers (British)..  150. 

"    ..Kent  (British) 180. 

"    ..Huron 140. 

"    ..Harrison  (Ist) 68. 

1840.. Detroit  (2d) 850. 

"    ..Missouri 612. 

"    ..Waterloo 100. 

"    ..Harrison  (2d) 862. 

1841.. Indiana 484. 

1842 . .  Benj.  Franklin 231 . 

"    ..John Owen 230. 

1848. .Nile 600. 

"    ..Union 64. 

"   ..Champion 270. 

1844 . .  Emerald  (British) . .  250 . 

"    ..Empire 1,186. 

"   ..Tecumseh..  269. 

"   ..J.  Wolcott 80. 


Wlie  e  biiJU. 


Remark4. 


.Detroit,  Mich.— lost  in  1842. 
.Dunnvllle,  C.  W. — changed  to  schooner. 
.Detroit,  Mich.— blown  up. 
.Sandusky,  O. 

Sandusky,  0. — changed  to  schooner. 
.Detroit,  Mich.— broken  up. 

Richmond— changed  to  sail  vessel. 
.Erie,  Penn.— broken  up. 
.Huron,  Mich. — burnt  In  1854. 
.Conneaut,  0. — broken  up. 
.Erie,  Penn.— burnt  Aug.,  1841. 
.  Charleston— broken  up. 
.  Charleston— broken  up. 
.  Conneaut,  0.— broken  up. 
.Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 
.  Grand  Island  -wrecked  1842. 
.  Perrysburg,  O. — blown  up  1850. 
.Mt.  Clemens,  Mich. — tow  boat. 

Sandusky,  O.— wrecked. 
.Belvidere,  Mich.— broken  up. 

.  Sandusky,  O. 

.  Grand  Rapids,  Mich. 

.Huron,  Mich.— broken  up. 

Buffalo,  N.  Y.— changed  to  sail  vessel. 
.Maumee,  O.— sunk  1846. 
.Vermilion,  0.— burnt  1842. 
.Charleston,  0.— broken  up. 
.Fairport,  0.— name  changed. 
.Grand  Island,  N.  Y. 
.  Perrysburg,  O. 
.Chicago,  111. 
.Ashtabula,  O.— burnt  1838. 

Chicago,  111. 
.  Kalamazoo,  Mich. 
.  Perrysburg,  0. 

• 

.Grand  Faven.  Mich 

.Bt.  Joseph,  Mich. 

.Huron,  Mich.— sunk  1847. 

.Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

.Chatham,  0.  W.— broken  up. 

.Chatham,  0.  W. 

.Newport,  Mich. — broken  up. 

.Erie,  Penn. — broken  up. 

.Newport,  Mich.— sunk  in  Lake  Huron. 

.Vermilion— broken  up. 

.  Black  Rock,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

.Maumee,  0.— broken  up. 

.Toledo,  O.— burnt  1848. 

.  Algonac,  Mich. — wrecked. 

.  Detroit,  Mich.— tow  boat 

.Detroit,  Mich.— wrecked  1849. 

.BlackRock,  N.  Y. 

.  Newport,  Mich.— broken  up. 

.  Chippewa,  0.  W. 

.Cleveland,  O.— running  on  Lake  Erie. 

.(Old  Fairport)— wrecked  in  1860. 

.Maumee,  0.— burnt  in  1861. 


Bur.t.  N 

1844..  Indian 
"  ..New  C 
«  ..St.  Loi 
»   ..U.  8.  fi 
"   ..     "    A 
1845..Niagat 
"   . .  Boston 
"   ..Oregoi 
"   ..Troy 
"   ..Superl 
"  ..Lexlng 
"  ..Astor 
"   ..Enterp 
"   ..Londoi 
"   ..Helen 
"   ..Romeo 
1846..All)anj 
"  ..Hendri 
"  ..Loulsu 
"  ..Saratoi 
"  ..Canadi 
1S4T..  Baltic. 
"  ..Sultani 
"  ..A.D.I 
"  ..Baltim 
"  ..Dlamoi 
"  .. Pacific 
"  ..Ohio  (2 
"  ..Samue 
"  ..Southe 
1848..  Arrow, 
*'  ..Alaban 
"  ..Frankl 
"  ..J.  D.  ^ 
"  ..Empln 
"  ..Queen 
"  ..Globe. 
"  ..Colum 
"  ..Charte 
"  ..John  I 
lS49..Atlanti 
"  ..May  F 
"  .  Keysto 
"  ..Telegn 
1850.. Dart.. 
"  ..Dover 
"  ..Ocean 
"  ..MayQ 
1351.  Arctic 
"  ..BayCi 
..Buckej 
..Northe 
..Peart. 
..Plough 
..Mazep 
..Queen 
..Minnee 
..Caspia 
..lAdy  I 


i( 

« 
<( 
u 
u 
u 
u 


LIST   OF   STEAMERS. 


187 


' 

Bul'.t. 

1844. 

to  schooner. 

ti 

u 

u 

chooner. 

a 

1945. 

vessel. 

u 

i( 

L 

i( 

u 

41. 

t( 

i( 

u 

u 

up. 

i« 

2. 

it 

850. 

1S46. 

)at. 

kk 

(( 

P- 

4* 

U 

1547. 

t( 

i( 

sail  vessel. 

(( 

U 

u 

u 

d. 

(i 

u 

1848. 

»k 

u 

i( 

u 

u 

u 

(4 

44 

44 

m9. 

44 

p. 

44 

). 

4( 

1850. 

ake  Haron. 

44 
44 

44 

up. 

1551 ! 

44 

44 

44 

49. 

44 

1     " 

). 

1     < 

Lake  Erie. 

1  :: 

1850. 

1  <. 

Mitme.  Tins. 

.Indian  Queen 112. 

.New  Orleans 610. 

.St.  Louis 618. 

.U.S.  St.  Michigan.   588. 

.     "    Al)ert. 183. 

.Niagara  (2d) 1,084. 

.Boston 7T5. 

.Oregon 781. 

.Troy    547. 

.Superior  (2d) 567. 

.Lexington 863. 

.Astor  200. 

.Enterprise 100. 

.  Loudon  (British) ...   456 . 

.Helen  Strong 2.53. 

.Romeo 180. 

.Albany 669. 

.  Hendrick  Hudson. .    750. 

.Louisiana..  900. 

.Saratoga 800. 

.Canada  (British)...    800. 

.Baltic 825. 

.Sultana 800. 

.A.  D.Patchin 870. 

.Baltimore 500. 

.Diamond 886. 

.Paciflc 500. 

Ohio  (2d) 600. 

.Samuel Ward 450. 

.Southerner 500. 

.Arrow 850 

.Alabama 600. 

.  Franklin  Moore. . . .   800 . 

.J.D.Morton 400. 

.Empire  State 1,700. 

.Queen  City 1,000. 

.Globe 1.200. 

.Columbia 167. 

.Charter 850. 

.John  HoUister 800. 

.Atlantic 1,100. 

.May  Flower 1,800. 

Keystone  State  — 1,500. 

.Telegraph 181. 

.Dart 297. 

.Dover  (British)....     81. 

.Ocean 900. 

.May  Queen 688. 

Arctic 867. 

.Bay  City 479. 

.Buckeye  State 1,274. 

.  Northerner  514 

.Peart 251. 

.  Ploughboy  (British)  450 . 
.Mazeppa  (British) .   250. 

.  Queen  ( British) 64 

.Minnesota 749. 

Caspian 1,050. 

.lAdy  Elgin 1,037. 


Where  built. 


ReniAiks. 


Buffalo,  N.  Y.— wrecked  in  1846. 
.Detroit,  Mich. — wrecked  1849. 
.Perrysburg,  O.— wrecked  in  1852. 
.Erie,  Penn. — in  commission. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— in  commission. 
.BufTalo,  N.  Y.— burnt  Sept.,  1856. 

Detroit,  Mich.— wrecked  1846. 
.Newport,  Mich. — burnt  1849. 
.Maumee,  O. — laid  up. 
.Perrysburg, O.— wrecked  Oct.,  1856. 
.  Black  River,  O. 
.  Green  Bay,  Wis. — wrecked. 
.Green  Bay,  Wis. 

.Chippewa,  C.W.— changed  to  sail  vessel. 
.Monroe,  Mich. — wrecked  in  1846. 
.Detroit,  Mich. — tow  boat. 
.  Detroit,  Mich. — wrecked  in  1854 
.  Black  River,  O. — runs  on  Lake  Erie. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y. — nms  on  Upper  Lakes. 
.Cleveland,  O. — wrecked  in  1854. 
.  Chippewa,  C.  W. — changed  to  barque. 
.  Buffalo,  N.  Y.— changed  to  propeller. 
.Trenton,  Mich. — runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 
.Trenton,  Mich. — wrecked  in  18.50. 
.Monroe,  Mich. — wrecked  in  1835. 
.  Buffalo,  N.  Y. — tow  boat. 
.  Newport,  Mich. — changed  to  sail  vessel. 
.Cleveland,  O. — tow  boat. 
.Newport,  Mich,  —uns  on  Lake  Huron. 

Trenton,  Mich.— wrecked  in  1853. 
.  Cleveland,  O. — runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

Detroit,  Mich.— sunk  in  1854. 
.Newport,  Mich. — tow  boat. 
.Toledo,  O.— tow  boat. 
.St.  Clair,  Mich.- laid  up. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 
.Detroit,  Mich.- changed  to  propeller. 
.  Fairport,  O. 

.Detroit,  Mich.— changed  to  propeller. 
.Perrysburg,  O.— burnt  on  Lake  Erie. 
.Newport,  Mich.— sunk  in  Lake  Erie  185S. 
.Detroit,  Mich.— wrecked  in  1854. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 
.Truargo,  Mich.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 
.Trenton,  Mich.- runs  on  Lake  Erie. 
.Port  Dover,  C.  W. 

Newport,  Mich.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

runs  on  Luke  Erie. 

.Newport,Mlch.— runs  on  Lake  Michigan. 
.Trenton.  Mich.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

Cleveland,  O.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 
.Cleveland,  O.— sunk  in  1856. 
.Newport,  Mich.— runs  on  Lake  St.  Clair. 
.Chatham,  C.  W.— runs  on  Lake  Huron. 

runs  on  Lake  Huron. 

.Dunnville,  C.W.-runs  on  Lake  St  Clair 
.Maumee,  O. 

.Newport,  Mich.— wrecked  in  1852. 
.Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Upper  Lake' 


M 


i^'  ..'.-ti 


1 


<• 


■^ 


»i 


Mf 


t^ 


w^w 


188 


LIST    OF    STEAMERS. 


■:i  ' 


I^H  ; 


niiiit, 

1852. 

(( 

t( 

(( 
u 

1853." 

(( 
(( 
(1 
(( 
(( 
i( 
(( 
(( 
•( 
u 
(( 

1854.' 

ti 

u 
u 
it 

u 

1855.* 
1856'. 

44 

u 
a 

1857." 


Name.  Tons.      Wliere  built,  RemarkH. 

.Cleveland 574.  .Newport,  Mich.— runs  on  Upper  Lakea 

.  Golden  Gate 771 . .  Buffalo,  N.  Y.— wrecked  in  1856. 

.  Huron 848 . .  Newport,  Mich. 

.Traveller 603.  Newport,  Mich.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 

.Michigan  (2d) — .  .Detroit,  Mich.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 

. Crescent  City 1,740.  .Buffalo,  N.  Y.—  runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.Queen  of  the  West.  1,851.  Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

,  Mi.s9l9sippi 1,829.  .Buffalo,  N.  Y. — runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

, St.  Lawrence 1,844.  .Buffalo,  N.  Y.—laid  up. 

•  E.  K.  Collins 950.  .Newport,  Mich.— burnt  Oct.,  18.54. 

.  Ariel 165 . .  Sandusky,  0.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.Garden  City —. .Buffalo,  N.  Y.— wrecked  May,  lb54. 

.Canadian  (British).   889. .Chatham,  C.  W. — runs  on  Georgian  Bay. 

. Collingwood  (Br.). .     — runs  on  Georgian  Bay 

.T.  Whitney 288 . .  Saginaw,  Mich. 

.Northern  Indiana  .1,470.  .Buffalo,  N.  Y.— burnt  Aug.,  1850. 
.Southern  Michigan.1,470.. Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.  Forrester 504. .  Newport,  Mich. — runs  on  Lake  Huron. 

Plymouth  Rock 1,991 .  .Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.Western  World. . .  .2,000.  .Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.North  Star 1,106.  .Cleveland,  O.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 

. Illinois 926.  .Detroit,  Mich.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 

. R.  R.  Elliott 821 .  .Newport,  Mich. — tow  boat. 

.Clifton  (British)....    247.  Chippewa,  C.W.—lake  and  river  St.  Clair. 

.  Forest  Queen 462 . .  N  ewport,  Mich.— runs  on  Lake  Huron. 

.  Planet 1,154. .  Newport,  Mich.— runs  on  Upper  Lakes. 

.  Island  Queen 173 . .  Kelley's  Island— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.Amity  (British)  ....    217. . Chatham,  0.  W. 

.  Magnet 256 . .  fiagioaw,  Mich. — runs  on  Lake  Huron 

.  Western  Metropolis  1,860 . .  Buffalo,  N.  Y.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 

.Uncle  Ben 155.  .Buffalo  N.  Y.— tow  boat. 

.  City  of  Buffalo 2,200.  .Buffalo^  JN.  Y.— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 


Note. — Besides  the  above  list,  there  are  a  few  small  steamers 
of  which  nothing  is  known  other  than  their  names,  among  these 
are  the  Penetanguishene,  Cynthia,  Pontiac,  Phenomenon,  etc. 

The  Steamer  Caroline,  whose  destruction  filled  so  large  a 
portion  of  public  notice,  was  originally  known  as  the  Carolina, 
and  is  believed  to  have  been  built  in  New  York,  at  an  early 
date,  then  sent  to  Charleston,  S.  C,  where  she  ran  for  several 
years.  Before  passing  into  Lake  Erie  she  ran  a  couple  of 
seasons  on  the  Hudson  River,  between  Albany  and  Troy,  when 
her  guards  were  shipped  so  as  to  adxrAt  her  through  the  Erie 
and  Oswego  Canals.  She  was  re-built  at  Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y., 
in  1834,  and  passed  through  the  Welland  Canal  into  Lake  Erie. 
The  date  of  her  destruction  by  the  British  at  Schlosser,  near 
Niagara  Falls,  was  Dec.  29, 1837,  when  five  lives  were  supposed 
to  be  lost. 


"  This 
Eastern 
cab'lity 
ceaed  thi 
without 
exceed  fif 
the  feasib 
that  it  wi 
why  not, 
round  figi 
if  the  coE 
shipping  i 
pass  tliro 
time  of  a 
canal,  be, 
making  it 
the   accoB 
revenue." 

The  Toh 

"  The  hi 
the  propos 
be  a  doubt 
organizf  d 
mense  imp 
it  not  be  i 
and  keep 
which  may 
There  shoi 
citizens  to 
Under  our 
for  the  por 
a  similar  o 
for  the  ext 
the  stock  V 
which  she 
that  the  ca 
be  no  doub 
"A  rout 
deep  cuttin 
through  Oh 


PROPOSED    SHIP    CANAL. 


189 


CTpper  Lakea 
11856. 

Jpper  Lakes, 
pper  Lakes, 
ike  Erie, 
ike  Erie, 
ike  Erie. 

It.,  1854. 
ke  Erie, 
klay,  1S54. 
Georgian  Bay. 
(Georgian  Bay 

f.,  185G. 
like  Erie. 
Lake  Huron, 
ake  Erie, 
ake  Erie, 
jper  Lakes, 
pper  Lakes. 
L 

I  river  St.  Clair. 
Lake  Huron. 
Upper  Lakes. 
Lake  Erie. 

Lake  Huron 
ake  Erie. 

ake  Erie. 


lall  steamers 

among  these 

menon,  etc. 

id  so  large  a 

le  Carolina, 

at  an  early 

1  for  several 

a  couple  of 

i  Troy,  when 

igh  the  Erie 

)urgh,  N.  Y., 

;o  Lake  Erie. 

hlosser,  near 

ere  supposed 


LAKE  ERIE  AND  MICHIGAN  SHIP  CANAL. 
Frwn  the  Buffalo  (AT.  Y.)  Commercial,  March,  185T. 

"  This  project  is  attracting  the  attention  of  Western  and 
Eastern  papers.  No  doubt  is  expressed  as  to  the  practi- 
cab'lity  of  the  construction  of  the  Canal.  In  fa«t,  it  is  con- 
ceaed  that  one  can  be  built  across  the  base  of  the  peninsula 
without  deep  cutting,  and  the  probability  is  that  it  would  not 
exceed  fifty  feet  at  any  particular  point.  But  while  they  grant 
the  feasibility  of  the  plan,  they  occasionally  express  the  opinion 
that  it  will  be  a  long  time  before  it  will  be  built,  if  ever.  Now, 
why  not,  pray  ?  Because,  we  suppose,  it  would  cost  a  pretty 
round  figure  to  build  it.  Is  this  an  insurmountable  objection, 
if  the  construction  of  the  work  be  entirely  feasible  ?  if  all  the 
shipping  to  and  from  Lake  Michigan,  present  and  to  come,  will 
pass  through  it .'  if  the  margin  in  the  original  cost  and  the 
time  of  a  trip,  via  the  straits  and  Lake  Huron,  and  via  the 
canal,  be,  as  it  would  be,  largely  in  favor  of  the  latter,  thus 
making  it  capable  of  producing  a  good  per  centage  of  tolls  .'— 
the  accomplishment  of  which  would  yield  a  remunerative 
revenue." 

The  Toledo  (Ohio)  Commercial  has  the  following : 

"  The  harbor  of  Toledo  affords  the  only  suitable  terminus  for 
the  proposed  Ship  Canal  on  Lake  Erie,  and  there  can  scarcely 
be  a  doubt  that  i*^  ^ill  be  adopted  by  any  company  which  may  be 
organizfd  for  constructing  the  work.  But  in  view  of  the  im- 
mense importance  of  the  canal  to  the  inter esta  of  Toledo,  would 
it  not  be  well  for  our  board  of  trade  to  look  into  the  matter, 
and  keep  an  eye  open  for  any  possible  speculative  movement 
which  may  be  set  on  foot  to  select  some  other  starting  point  ? 
There  should,  indeed,  be  enterprise  enough  among  our  own 
citizens*  to  take  Ht/i  initiative  in  this  most  important  project. 
Under  our  general  law,  a  company  might  be  organized  here 
for  the  portion  of  the  line  lying  within  the  State  of  Ohio ;  and 
a  similar  organization  could  very  readily  be  effected  in  Indiana, 
for  the  extension  through  that  State.  A  large  local  interest  in 
the  stock  would  effectually  secure  to. Toledo  the  advantages  to 
which  she  is  entitled  by  natural  position  ;  supposing,  always, 
that  the  canal  is  to  be  opened — of  which  there  really  ought  to 
be  no  doubt. 

"  A  route  for  the  canal,  eminently  practicable,  and  without 
deep  cutting  or  heavy  lockage,  can  be  found,  we  are  confident, 
through  Ohio  and  Indiana." 

17 


t  »t 


\\ 


.■^j 


!• 


iv 


^^4 


n-^ 


190 


PROPOSED    SHIP    CANAL. 


%.,-. 


The  following  is  from  the  Monroe  (Mich.)  Commercial  : 

*•  For  many  years  past  the  public  attention  has,  at  times, 
been  directed  to  the  importance  of  a  ship  canal  from  I\Ionroe, 
on  Lake  Erie,  to  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan.     The  project  is 
perfectly  feasible,  but  railroad  enterprises  have  of  late  been  so 
numerous,  as  to  divert  public  attention  from  the  benefits  and 
objects  of  such  a  canal.    The  absolute  necessities  of  commerce, 
however,  are  such  as  to  bring  the  subject  forcibly  and  favor- 
ably before  the  community,  and  the  great  commercial  interests 
of  certain  locations  are  intimately  connected  with  the  comply, 
tion  of  such  a  work.    For  instance,  the  project  now  on  fcjt  iu 
Canada  West,  and  portions  of  New  York,  of  which  Oswego  is  the 
commercial  center,  for  constructing  a  ship  canal,  to  connect 
Lakes  Ontario  and  Huron,  if  carried  forward  to  completion, 
would  be  a  more  fatal  blow  to  the  prosperity  of  Buffalo  than 
any  great  work  of  improvement  that  could  be  made  on  the 
American  continent.     The  immense  trade  l^etween  the  great 
agricultural  States  in  the  West,  and  the  Atlantic  States  in  the 
East,  now  tributary  to  Buffalo,  would  seek  the  new  route,  and 
make  Oswego,  at  the  expense,  and  to  the  destruction  of  Buffalo, 
tlie  great  commercial  metropolis  of  the  lakes.     The  citizens  of 
W^estern  New  York  see  this,  and  the  necessity  of  availing  them- 
selves of  a  rival,  and  more  ready  and  feasible  route  for  a  ship 
canal,  to  retain  the  ascendency  they  already  possess,  and  se- 
cure forever,  and  beyond  doubt,  the  trade,  business,  and  profits 
of  the  business  of  the  great  West. 

"  A  ship  canal  from  Monroe  to  the  navigable  waters  of  Lake 
Michigan  will  accomplish  this.  The  canal  would  be  easily 
made,  and  would  always  be  abundantly  supplied  with  water 
from  the  lake,  in  the  county  of  Hillsdale,  which  is  now  the 
source  of  four  of  the  principal  rivers  of  this  State.  The  canal 
would  make  a  direct  line,  and  of  course  the  shortest  one  that 
could  be  made,  between  Chicago  and  Buffalo  and  the  Atlantic 
cities,  and  be  certain  of  securing  the  transportation  of  the 
grain  and  provision  trade  of  the  West,  and  all  the  heavy  freight 
business  that  now  moves  tediously  by  the  protracted  route  of 
the  lakes.  The  distance  would  be  shortened  more  than  half, 
or  yome  five  to  six  hundred  miles,  and  that  the  expenses  now 
incurred  for  insurance  on  produce,  vessels,  and  goods,  by  the 
lakes,  and  the  loss  of  property  on  Lakes  Huron  and  Michigan, 
would  pay  the  construction  of  the  canal  in  a  very  few  years. 

'*  Why,  then,  should  this  great  and  important  work  be  longer 
delayed  ?  A  discerning  public  can  see  its  absolute  necessity, 
and  security  and  permanency  of  great  commercial  interests 
T|rge  its  construction,  by  every  consideration  of  self-preserva- 
tion and  future  greatness. 

"  We  do  say  that  Monroe  and  Michigan  are  also  dowlv  iji- 


terosted 
encouraj 
and  let  , 
object  ca 
Michigii 
work.  I 
etninentl 
coinr  re 
grjatost 


DIREC 


"  An  f 

Liverpool 
■whose  de] 
simple  ai 
in  comrac 
ing  signi 
with  the 
prehend  i 
ment  mu 
the  Westi 
Mediterr 
Aloxandi 
New  Woi 
nenfc  to  : 
wedge, 
pensive  i 
vVestern 
volving  £ 
importan 
phorus,  t 
in  throu^ 
and  the 
complica 
monumei 
roads  an 
the  inter 
Lake  Mi 
Sheba,  o 
in  the  cl 
tody  car 
shipm^n 


ercial : 
is,  at  times, 
rom  ^Monroe, 
'he  project  is 

late  been  so 

benefits  and 

)f  commerce, 

y  and  fiivor- 

cial  interests 

the  compl«- 
ow  on  fcot  iu 
3swego  is  the 
,  to  connect 

completion, 
BulFalo  than 
uade  on  the 
sn  the  great 
States  in  the 
w  route,  and 
)n  of  Buffalo, 
tie  citizens  of 
mailing  them- 
ite  for  a  ship 
isess,  and  se- 
38,  and  profits 

aters  of  Lake 
aid  be  easily 
i  with  water 
ti  is  now  the 
J.  The  canal 
rtest  one  that 
[  the  Atluntic 
tation  of  the 
heavy  freight 
cted  route  of 
re  than  half, 
expenses  now 
goods,  by  the 
nd  Michigan, 
few  years, 
rork  be  longer 
lute  necessity, 
cial  interests 
solf-preserva- 

Iso  f]fier>lv  in- 


..E    AND    OCKAN    NAVIGATION. 


191 


tercsted  in  this  great  ship  canal,  and  that  they  can  do  much  to 
encourage  its  construction  at  an  early  day.  Buffalo  is  moving, 
and  let  M  jnroe  and  Southern  Michigan  second  the  move.  The 
object  can  not  fail  to  enlist  the  hearty  co-operation  of  Southern 
Miohig  in.  and  we  call  upon  our  citizens  to  wake  up  vo  the  great 
work.  It  is  not  only  a  feasible  improvement,  but  will  prove  an 
eaiinently  suooessful  one,  and  will  work  a  revolution  in  the 
conu  rce  of  the  Northwest  that  will  make  Monroe  one  of  the 
grjatost  cities  of  the  lakes." 


DIRECT   TRANSPORTATION    FROM    LAKE    SUPERIOR    TO 

LIVERPOOL. 

From  tJie  St.  Paul  (Minnesota)  Advertiser. 


(( 


An  article  from  the  European  Times  recites  the  arrival  at 
Liverpool,  direct  from  Chicago,  of  the  schr  '  D  ;an  Kichmonp,' 
whose  departure  we  announced  some  three  months  ago.  In  this 
simple  announcement  is  contained  the  initial  fact  of  a  new  era 
in  commercial  history,  and  issues  of  startling  and  overwhelm- 
ing significance  c^owd  upon  the  calmest  view  of  its  relations 
Avith  the  future  West.  It  seems  to  us — we  know  not  if  we  ap- 
prehend its  bearings  correctly — that  the  results  of  this  expari- 
ment  must  be  an  eventual  revolution  of  the  internal  traffic  of 
the  Western  States.  It  virtually  makes  our  inland  lakes  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  of  North  America,  and  Chicago  becomes  the 
Alexandria  of  modern  times.  It  peels  off  the  littoral  rind  of  the 
New  World  at  a  stroke —and  splits  the  ripe  apple  of  the  conti- 
nent to  its  core.  Ocean  commerce  will  follow  that  entering 
wedge.  Direct  transportation  will  inevitably  supersede  the  ex- 
pensive and  complicated  machinery  employed  in  conveying 
\Vestern  grain  through  its  present  channels — which,  besides  in- 
volving several  expensive  trans  shipments,  is  attended  with  an 
important  diminution  of  bulk.  The  Atlantic,  tne  far  Bos- 
phorus,  the  Baltic,  and  the  seas  of  the  old  hemisphere,  will  flow 
in  through  the  rent  torn  by  the  keel  of  the  *  Dean  Richmond,' 
and  the  majestic  commerce  of  the  ocean  overleaping  the  huge 
complications  of  human  ingenuity — passing  in  triumph  past  the 
monuments  of  Clinton's  genius,  past  canals  and  railroads,  rail- 
roads and  canals — through  rivers  and  lakes,  2,000  miles  into 
the  interior — will  plant  its  sea-worn  flags  upon  the  shores  of 
Lake  Michigan,  and  sit  in  royal  state  like  another  queen  of 
Sheba,  on  the  throne  that  Western  industry  shall  build  for  her 
in  the  chief  city  of  the  interior  plain  of  North  America.  No- 
tody  can  doubt  that  the  demonstrated  practicability  of  direct 
shipment  from  Chicago  to  Europe  will  eventually  transfer  the 


13.' 


u  *  \ 


•A 


H 


>* .  (,i 


3    '■     , 


i1 


I' 

I  ' 

1  I 


^11 


II 


.[*   t 


*     i 


192 


LAKE    AND    OCEAN    NAVIGATION. 


business  of  transportation  to  this  channel.  An  inevitable  oon- 
sequence  of  this  will  be  the  cnlorgement  of  the  Weliand  Ship 
Canal,*  the  ring-bolt  in  the  chain  of  communication  from  the 
ocean  to  the  lakes.  a  capacity  sufficient  for  a  ship  of  any  re- 
quired size.  The  application  of  steam  wUl  overcome  the  delays 
of  navigation,  and  the  path  opened  by  the  *  Dean  Richmond' 
will  be  thronged  with  the  Hags  of  every  nation.  But  this  is  not 
all.  What  is  true  of  Lake  Michigan  is  true  of  Lake  Superior. 
What  is  possible  by  the  Weliand  Canal  is  equally  possible  with 
the  Saut  Ste  Marie.  The  splendid  chain  of  inland  navigation 
does  not  end  with  Chicago.  It  is  complete  to  the  extreme  west- 
ern end  of  Lake  Superior.  Here,  at  the  uttermost  limit  of 
ship- navigation,  ihe  town  of  Superior,  some  two  years  old,  and 
containing  not  more  than  1,000  inhabitants,  is  slowly  rising  on 
the  shores  of  tne  que3n  lake,  from  the  somber  woods  that  sur- 
round it,  to  meet  the  majestic  destiny  that  is  creeping  with 
slow  pace  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and  through  the  lakes  toward 
her,  to  cpst  the  commerce  of  the  ocean  at  her  feet,  and  crown 
her  with  a  diadem  of  ocean  pearls.  Nor  is  this  all.  The  ocean 
highway,  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the 
extremity  of  Lake  Superior,  will  be  the  basis  of  the  whole  sys- 
tem of  Western  railroads.  A  JVorthcrn  Pacific  Railroad » with 
a  terminus  at  Superior,  is  the  necessary  supplement  of  the 
navigable  highway  we  have  described.  The  arguments  in  its 
favor  are  irresistible,  unanswerable.  It  is  a  logical  deduction 
from  the  whole  law  of  railroads.  The  paramount  purpose  of 
the  Pacific  Railroad,  we  take  to  be,  to  facilitate  the  commercial 
intercourse  between,  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  coasts,  in  other 
words,  to  facilitate  transportation.  Now  transportation  is  im- 
pelled by  an  irresistible  impulse  in  the  cheapest  routa.  Hence 
gravitation  itself  is  scarcely  more  a  law  than  the  tendency  of 
railroads  to  the  nearest  water-course  iu  the  direction  of  their 
destination.  They  break  off  at  once  by  a  sort  of  physical  ne- 
cessity, as  transporting  agencies,  at  the  nearest  navigable  water 
communication.  One  always  ends  where  the  other  begins.  The 
commercial  apparatus  of  the  country  is  full  of  instances  per- 
tinent to  this.  By  this  long  chain  of  inland  lakes,  covering 
nearly  half  of  the  distance  between  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
coasts,  nature  seems  to  point  with  the  force  of  a  divine  decree 
to  a  supplementary  railroad  route  'o  the  Pacific,  to  connect  at 
its  nearest  span  the  ocean  navigation  of  the  opposite  sides  of  the 
continent,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that,  other  things  being 
equal  in  feasibility  of  a  route  west  of  the  Mississippi,  the  first 
road  to  the  Pacific  will  abut  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Superior." 


**  Also  the  construction  of  a  ship  canal  around  tVe  Falls  of  Niagara,  on 
the  American  or  New  York  side  of  the  river. 


Extra 
on  the  su 

The  fol 
noge  of  t 
nage  for 
Distric 

Sackett's 
Oswego  . 
Genesee . 
Niagara  . 
Oswegatc! 
Buffalo  C] 
Cape  Vi.^( 
Presque  I 
Cuyahoga 
Sandusky 
Miami . . . 
Detroit 
Mackinac 
Milwauke 
Chicago  . 

•  Tol 

"  lucre; 
1854,  to  J 

"  Ratio 
less  than 

TOTAL  TO 


1854 
1855 

"  Ratio 
tonnage  o 
per  annul 
lake  tonn 
nage  of  t 

**  The  c 
and  the  < 


jvi table  con. 
'elland  Ship 
on  from  the 
p  of  any  re- 
le  the  delays 
I  Richmond' 
it  this  is  not 
ke  Superior. 
X)S8ible  with 
1  navigation 
[treme  west- 
ost  limit  of 
lars  old,  anil 
irly  rising  on 
ids  that  sur- 
eeping  with 
akes  toward 
i,  and  crown 
The  ocean 
rence  to  the 
e  whole  sys- 
lilroad,  with 
ment  of  the 
ments  in  its 
a.1  deduction 
purpose  of 
commercial 
sts,  in  other 
tation  is  im- 
uta.  Hence 
tendency  of 
ion  of  their 
physical  ne- 
igable  water 
begins.  The 
stances  per- 
es,  covering 
and  Pacific 
ivine  decree 

0  connect  at 

1  sides  of  the 
ihings  being 
>pi,  the  first 
Superior." 

f  Niagara,  on 


THE  COMMERCE  OF  THE  LAKES. 


Extract  from  the  Report  of  the  Congressional  Committee 
on  the  subject  of  the  Commerce  of  the  Lakes. 

The  following  (from  the  Cleveland  Herald)  is  the  total  Ton- 
nage of  the  Lakes  for  1854  and  1855,  including  the  steam  ton- 
nage for  ohe  same  years : 

Districts.                              Tonnage.  Steam  Tonnuge. 

1854.  1855.  18M. 

Sackett's  Harbor 7,570  6,227  1,944 

Oswego 24,865  42,460  5,199 

Genesee 233  128 

Niagara 868  468  128 

Oswegatchie 3,74^  4,485  3,042 

Buffalo  Creek 82,678  76,952  38,282 

Cape  Vi.^cent 4,860  6,609  1,143 

Presquelsle 8,210  9,269  4,720 

Cuyahoga. . . .'! 45,483  51,078  15,012. 

Sandusky 6,084  8,051  306- 

Miami 5,479  8,763  115 

Detroit 52,363  65,058  32,180- 

Mackinac 4,393  4,431  2,897. 

Milwaukee 11,117  15,673  288  • 

Chicago 31,041         .     50,972  3,207 

■  Total  tonnage 291,231  345,729  108,243" 

"  Inc:*ei-se  of  lako  tonnage  (steam  and  sail)  from  June  30th, 
18o4,  to  June  80th,  1855,  a  fraction  over  18  8-  0  per  cent. 

"  Ratio  of  steam  to  sail  tonnage  for  1855,  a  small  fraction 
less  than  1-3. 

TOTAL.  TONNAGE  OF  THE  UNITKD  STATES  FOR  1854  AND  1855. 

Eegistered.  Enrolled.  Total  Tonnage. 

1854 2,333,819  2,469,083  4,802,902 

1855 2,535,136  2,676,864  5,212,000 

"  Ratio  of  increase  of  lake  tonnage  over  the  aggregate  total 
tonnage  of  the  United  States,  a  fraction  over  2  3-10  per  cent. 
per  annum  more  than  double;  or  as  18  8-10  to  8-12  in  favor  of 
lake  tonnage,  which  thus  constitutes  1  1-15  of  the  entire  ton" 
nage  of  the  U.  States. 

'•  The  clearances  of  vessels  from  ports  in  the  U.  S.  to  Canada, 
and  the  entries  of  vessels  from  Canada  to  ports  in  the  U.  S., 


-        I 


'^'' 

% 


I 


f 

f     !  . 


K 


.l^ 


194 


COMMKPCE    OP    THE    LAKES. 


i 


'> 


M 


m 


\\ 


during  the  year  1855,  show  a  greater  amount  of  tonnage  en- 
tered and  cleared  than  between  the  U.  States  and  any  other  for- 
eign country. 

**  From  the  U.  S.  to  Canada  there  were  2,809  clearances  of 
American  vessels,  and  0,638  of  Canadian,  making  a  total  of 
0,C07.  The  total  tonnage  was  1,793,619.  The  clearances  from 
Canada  to  the  U.  S.  for  the  same  time  were  2,454  American 
vessels  and  4,194  Canadian,  making  a  total  of  6,048,  with  a 
total  tonnage  of  1,767,730,  and  a  total  tonnage  back  and  forth 
of  3,501,249. 

"The  value  of  lake  tonnage  for  1854,  $10,185,000;  at  an 
overage  of  ^43  per  ton,  this  would  make  the  value  of  the  in- 
creased tonnage  for  1855  (viz., 845,000  tons)  reach  $14,835,000. 

*'  The  following  table  shows  the  value  of  the  lake  commerce 
for  1855,  excluding  the  districts  of  Presque  Isle  and  Mackinac, 
and  not  including  the  freight  and  passenger  trade: 

Dlstrlctu.  Tonnage  Ent'd  &  Cleared.       Val.  of  I'mp'ta.  &  Exp'ts. 

Cuyahoga 1,782,493     $102,185,040 

333,028,000 

69,906,000 

94,107,000 

233,878.000 

140,000.000 

36,000,000 

145,235,000 


Buffalo  Creek 3,330,232 

Sandusky 

Maumee 1,034,644 

Chicago 2,632,000 

Detroit 1,588,000 

Milwaukee 

Oswego 1,607,000 

Sackett's  Harbor,  ] 
Cape  Vincent, 
Oswegatchie, 
Genesee, 
Niagara, 


42,226,000 


Exports  and  Imports ^ .  $1,216,620,040 

Total  value  of  lake  commerce,  excluding  Presque 

Isle  and  Mackinac $608,310,390 

"  This  sum  may  seem  incredible  to  those  unacquainted  with 
the  immense  carrying  trade  of  these  lakes.  But  the  figures 
will  show  that  the  trade  between  the  U.  S.  and  Canada,  car- 
ried on  over  the  lakes,  is  in  value  next  to  that  between  France 
and  the  U.  S.  The  amount  of  American  goods  sent  to  Canada 
is  $9,950,764,  and  the  amount  of  foreign  goods,  but  passmg 
through  American  hands,  is  $8,769,280 ;  while  the  amcv"t  of 
goods  sent  from  Canada  to  the  States  is  $12,182,314,  making  a 
total  trade  between  the  two  countries  of  $30,902,658.* 

♦  These  figures  are  very  convincing  of  the  fact  that  the  interests  of  the 
Ganadas  with  the  United  States  are  one  and  identical  -  and  the  commer- 
cial, and  social  good  \mderstanding  happily  ejcisting  between  the  two 


«*The  ac 
navigation 
merchandii; 
foreign  cou 
ported  fron 

"The  di 
three,  viz. 
shown  to  I 
area  over  > 
actcr  of  th 
the  want  ( 
refuge  for 

«  The  fo 
connecting 

Lakes. 
Ontario. . . 

Erie 

Huron.  . . . 
Michigan  . 
St.  Clair.. 


Str.  Detroi 
St.  Clair.. 


"Thus  1 
Chicago,  1 
lakes,  will 
than  23  m 

*'  But  tl 
longer,  an 
Lake  Mich 
ron,  440 ; 

"  A  ver 
set  forth  i 
miles'  dist 
over  a  su 
more  than 
vessels  by 
fear  of  wl 
posed. 

"  No  re 

countries  le 
of  Colonie^ 
distant  mos 


COMMERCE    OF    THE    LAKES. 


195 


tonnage  en* 
y  other  for' 

earanccs  of 
a  total  of 
ranees  from 
American 
,048,  with  a 
k  and  forth 

,000 ;  at  an 
e  of  the  in- 
;14,835,0()0. 
te  commerce 
[i  Mackinac, 
e: 

p'la.  A  Exp'tfl. 

162,185,040 

333,023,000 

69,900,000 

94,107,000 

233,878.000 

140,000.000 

86,000,000 

145,235,000 


42,226,000 


,216,020,040 

1608,310,390 

lainted  vrith 
the  figures 
lanada,  car- 
w^een  France 
t  to  Canada 
but  passing 
5  amcv"t  of 
4,  maKing  a 
38.* 

nteresta  of  the 
I  the  commer* 
vreen  the  two 


"  The  actual  value  of  property  exposed  to  the  perils  of  lake 
Dayieation  in  i*  'nsiderably  greater  tnan  the  total  value  of  the 
mercnandise  of  evcrv  description  exported  from  the  U.  8.  to  all 
foreign  countries,  added  to  the  total  value  of  merchandise  im- 
portwl /rom  all  foreign  countries  into  the  United  States. 

"  The  dangers  to  which  our  lake  commerce  is  exposed  are 
three,  viz.,  shipwreck,  collision,  and  stranding.  These  are 
shown  to  be  in  a  great  measure  attributable  to  the  narrow 
area  over  which  this  commerce  is  carried  on,  the  stormy  char- 
acter of  the  lakes,  the  exposed  condition  of  the  lake  coasts,  and 
the  want  of  natural  or  artificial  harbors  of  commerce  or  of 
refuge  for  the  lake  shipping. 

"  The  following  are  the  dimensions  of  the  lakes  and  their 
connecting  rivers : 

Greatest  breadth.     Av.  breadth.  Areas. 


Lakes.        Length. 

Ontario 180 

Erie 240 

Huron 270 

Michigan  . .   840 
St.  Clair...     20 


1,050 
Str.  Detroit.  27 
St. Clair....   38 


62 
67 
106 
83 
25 


40  6,400 

88  7,800 

70  20,400 

68  20,000 

25  800 

46f  58,900 


1,115  total  length. 

"  Thus  a  vessel  sailing  from  Cape  Vincent,  Lake  Ontario,  to 
Chicago,  Lake  Michigan,  by  keeping  the  center  lines  of  the 
lakes,  will  sail  1,115  miles;  and.  yet  will  average  not  more 
than  23  miles  from  shore  throughout  the  whole  distance. 

''  But  the  coast  line  of  the  lakes  on  the  American  side  is  much 
longer,  and  excluding  Green  Bay  and  the  northwest  coast  of 
Lake  Michigan,  is  for  Lake  Ontario  200  miles;  Erie,  350 ;  Hu- 
ron, 440 ;  Michigan,  850 ;  or  a  total  of  1 ,940  miles. 

"  A  very  large  proportion  of  the  extensive  commerce  above 
set  forth  is  conducted  by  sail  and  steam  vessels,  at  but  a  few 
miles'  distance  from  the  American  coasts  of  these  lakes,  and 
over  a  surface  not  exceeding  an  area  of  7,000  square  miles ; 
more  than  1,400  miles  of  this  coast  constitutes  to  the  numerous 
vessels  by  which  this  commerce  is  carried  on,  a  lee  shore^  to  the 
fear  of  which  vessels  navigating  those  lakes  are  constantly  ex- 
posed. 

"  No  reference  has  been  made  to  the  commerce  and  navigation 

countrieH  leaves  no  room  for  hope  on  the  part  of  the  OHgarchal  JfotKfir 
f>/  Colonie-y  that  Canada  will  remain  long  in  servile  subordination  to  a 
distant  monarchy.— Ed. 


^i' 


m 


i. 


■  :-  r     t 


I   ■  V 


Err,»., 


v*tl 


100 


COMMKKCE    OF    THE    LAKES. 


of  Lake  Superior  from  the  want  of  satisfactory  data.  In  1855, 
hDWOYor,  the  exports  of  iron  and  copper  alone  from  Lake  Supe- 
rior ports  amounted  to  $2,700,000. 

**  The  national  importance  of  the  lake  commerce  and  nsiTi- 
gation  is  clearly  set  forth — first  with  reference  to  the  population 
of  the  seven  States  bordering  on  these  lakes,  and  conseqticntly 
interested  in  their  navigation  and  commerce.  Secondly,  the 
position  of  those  States  relatively  to  the  great  valley  of  the 
Mississippi  Kiver;  and  the  extent  and  cost  of  their  railroads 
and  lands,  designed  to  open  and  facilitate  commercial  inter- 
course between  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  lakes,  and  navigable 
waters  and  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  River.  Thirdly,  the 
position  of  these  seven  lake  States  relatively  to  the  British  pos- 
sessions and  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  Fourthly, 
the  importance  of  the  commerce  and  navigation  of  the  lakes  as 
a  nursery  of  seamen  from  which  the  navy  of  the  United  States 
may  be  supplied  with  the  first  class  of  seamen  in  the  time  of 
war,  in  which  the  tonnage  of  the  lakes  is  compared  with  the 
tonnage  engaged  in  the  whale,  cod,  and  mackerel  fisheries. 

**  The  white  population  of  the  United  States,  according  to  the 
census  of  1850,  was  19,553,038.  There  are  seven  States  bounded 
in  part  with  great  lakes,  with  a  population  as  follows  : 

New  York 8,048,325 

Pennsylvania 2,258,160 

Ohio 1,955,050 

Michigan 395,071 

Indiana 977,154 

Illinois 846,034 

Wisconsin 804.756 


White  population  of  the  7  lake  States. .  9,784,550 

24  other  States.  9,768,488 


(C 


(t 


(( 


cc 


Balance  in  favor  of  the  lake  States. . .        16,062 

Showing  that  the  white  population  of  the  seven  lake  States 
is  greater  by  16,062*  than  the  total  white  population  of  the  re- 
maming  twenty* four  States;  and  the  difference  has  probably 
been  still  more  increaied  since  1850. 

**  The  total  value  of  foreign  imports  for  1865  in  this  region 
is  $274,403,935.  If  the  seamen  engaged  in  the  lake  navigation 
or  in  the  fisheries  are  proportionate  in  number  to  the  tonnage 
engaged  in  each,  then  those  engaged  in  the  navigation  of  the 
lakes  must  very  considerably  exceed  those  engaged  in  the  whale, 
cod,  and  mackerel  fisheries. 

*  The  population  of  Minnesota  (say  100,000)  should  be  added  to  the 
above  excess  of  white  population. 


««The 
want  of 
kind  of  > 
gtrandinji 
limount  o 


1848... 

1849.... 

1850... 

1851... 

1852..: 

1853.... 

1854... 

loOO .... 


1848... 
1849... 
1850... 
1851... 
1852... 
1853... 
1854... 
1855... 


1848.... 
1849.... 
1850.... 
1851.... 
1852.... 
1853.... 
1854.... 
1855 .... 

Sail 

Propeller 
Steamboa 

Tota 


%.    In  ISoo, 
Lake  Supe- 

e  and  nuvi- 
e  population 
lonsequently 
jcondly,  the 
alley  of  the 
>ir  railroads 
jrcial  inter- 
d  navigable 
Thirdly,  the 
British  pos- 
Fourthly, 
the  lakes  as 
nited  States 
the  time  of 
ed  with  the 
sheriea. 
rding  to  the 
<tes  bounded 
78 : 

048,325 
258,100 
955,050 
395,071 
977,154 
346,034 
304,756 


COMMEKCE  OF  THE  LAKES. 


197 


784,550 
768,488 

16,002 

lake  States 
>n  of  the  re- 
is  probably 

this  rc^on 
)  navigation 

he  tonnage 
ation  of  the 
a  the  whale, 

added  to  the 


**  The  amount  of  losses  sustained  by  vessels  and  cargoes  for 
want  of  suitable  river  and  harbor  improvements —number  and 
kind  of  vessels  sustaining  losses  on  the  lakes  by  **  shipwreck, 

stranding,  and  collision,"  from  1848  to  1855  inclusive,  with  the 
amount  of  damage  sustained  : 

8TK  AM  BOATS. 

Shipwreck.                  Rtrandinjf.  Collision. 

No.        I^osfl.               No.      Loss.  No.      Loss. 

1848 3  $25,000     \)     $47,000  0   $ 

1849 1   25,000     5   21,000  3  1,400 

1850 5   98,000     8   13,400  8  28,8(X) 

1851 2   27,000     6   30,700  9  0,0<)0 

1852..'. 3  125,000     6   14,700  16  158,350 

1853 3  120,000     7   61,000  11  31,050 

1854 4  110,000     2  110,000  8  31,200 

1855 4  378,000    11   11,350  12  36,600 

25  914,000    52  305,150  67  286,000 

PROPELLERS. 

1848 0       $ 1     $12,000  1  $400 

1849 0 1         5,000  0         

1850 0 4    2,500  3  2,400 

1851 2   55,000     6   32,800  10  40,400 

1852 4   85,000     6    6,900  9  73,000 

1853 1   42.000     7   28,000  4  39,000 

1854 6  370,000     0    8  69,500 

1855 7  351,000    11    9,950  19  657,760 

19  903,000     35   99,050  64  667,800 

SAIL   VESSELS. 

1848 23  $128,600    65  $73,020  3  $36,000 

1849 10   66,900    30   42,900  10  17,000 

1850 20   89,600    64   82,160  11  44,600 

1851 84  132,700    86   83,950  22  60,700 

1852 80  183,100    62   96,000  36  28,600 

1853 27  176,400    62   84,000  16  23,700 

1854 62  407,626     0 16  90,660 

1855 40  418,300   109  184,650  62  121,800 

Sail 236  1,691 ,626   479  646,770  164  414,250 

Propellers...  19  903,000    35   99,050  64  661,800 

Steamboats..  25  914,500    62  305,160  67  286,000 

Total . .  .380  ^,409,126   666  1,061,170  285  1,868,060 

17* 


'  1 


I 


!'  *1 


/I' 


I 


,f  >.* 


t:    :: 


1         t1 

r 

198 


COMMERCE    OF   THE    LAKES. 


V  l 


m  ■  '  '^i 


TOTAL  LOSS   IN  EIGHT  TEARS. 

Numbei  Damages. 

By  Shipwrec}£ 880  $3,409,126 

By  Stranding 566  1,051,170 

By  ColUsion 285  1,368,050 

Total 1,231  5,828,346 

"  Whole  number  of  disasters  to  vessels  and  cargoes,  or  either 
of  them,  during  these  eight  years,  2,117,  of  which  1,231  con« 
sist  oi  shipwreck,  stranding,  and  coUieion,  a  little  over  4-0  of 
the  whole,  while  the  damage  from  these  causes  during  the  sam«j 
period  was  nearly  5-7  of  the  whole,  and  amounted  to  $5,828,84(5 ; 
the  total  damage  from  disasters  of  all  kinas  being  $8,852,649. 

"  The  amount  of  damages  to  the  commerce  of  the  lakes  dur- 
ing 1854,  from  the  difficulty  of  crossing  the  St.  Clair  Flats  with 
loaded  yesseln,  was  as  follows  : 

VESSELS  ENGAGED   IN  1854   IN   TRADE  TO  THE  UPPER  LAKES. 

Steamboats 8  Tonnage,  6,880 

Propellers 44          "  21,796 

Sail  Vessels  (Barques) 32          *«  12,284 

Brigs. 84          "  24,757 

Schooners 198          ««  48,823 

Total  Tons 110,990 

SAIL   VESSELS. 

Paid  towing  and  lighterage  on  Flats $16C,686  56 

Time  detained— days,  5,566 220,640  00 

Damages  by  collision,  paid  for  repairs 62,800  00 

$452,146  56 
Steam  vessels  paid  for  like  damages 208,000  00 

Total  damage  on  St.  Clair  Flats  (for  the  season) .  .$660,146  50 

**  We  call  especial  attention  to  the  last  item. 

**  The  amount  of  duties  collected  in  the  fifteen  collection  dis- 
tricts of  the  Great  Lakes  from  1837  to  1855  was  $5,511,129  90, 
and  tlio  whole  amount  of  appropriations  that  have  been  made 
to  these  lakes  from  the  beginning  of  the  government  till  now  is 
$2,884,125,  sho^Ting  that  the  United  States  have  received  from 
the  lake  revenue  $2,267,004  98  more  than  it  has  given  back  to 
it  in  any  shape.  This  balance  will  cover  the  amount  expended 
on  the  light-houses  on  the  lakes,  with  repairs,  attendance  of 
keepers,  and  the  cost  of  the  ship  canal  around  the  St.  Mary's 
Falls,  and  still  leave  $1,000,000  for  the  U.  States  Treasury." 


WESTW^ 
COMM 


*'  In  the 
to  look  to 
ization  of 

"  Includ 
mercial  cf 
of  populat 
the  head  o 
is  north  oi 
ductive  pc 
know  It  m 
population 
their  regul 
trial  powe 
ter  of  popi 
Their  tend 
required  t'^ 
centers  be 
expects  it 
beyond  it. 
that  the  ce 
nent  on,  tli 
gather  th«i 
towns  and 
pass  Cleve! 
nearer  the 
by  them,  ai 
l^reatly  inc 
mfluence  o 
distributing 

"  If  we  1 
equal,  the 
dustrial  po 
than  its  pr 
nent  for  en 
are  points 
advantages 
of  industrij 
points  we  i 
there  must 
by  land.  I 
Cleveland, 
,  "But we 
ica,  by  mea 
of  one  to  t 
proportion 
attention  to 
of  this  is  d 
the  numbe 
community 

"  It  can  s 
America  be 
merce.    ih 


fi 


mages. 
09,126 
151,170 
168,050 

^28,340 

js,  or  either 
1,231  con. 
OTer  4-0  of 
ig  the  same 
l5,8--'8,34r); 
i8,852,049. 
)  lakes  dur- 
r  Flats  with 


>ER  LAKES. 

,  6,880 
21 ,79r, 
12,234 
24,757 
48,323 

110,990 


ll6C,686  56 
220,640  00 
62,800  00 

1452,146  56 
208,000  00 

^660,146  5G 


POPULATION,    COMMERCE,    ETC. 


199 


:> 


llecticn  dis- 
11,129  90, 
been  mado 
t  till  now  is 
ceived  from 
ven  back  to 
it  expended 
;endance  of 
I  St.  Mary's 
reasury." 


WESTWARD  MOVEMENT  OF  THE  CENTER  OP  POPULATION, 
COMMERCE,  AND  OF  INDUSTRIAL  POWER  IN  NORTH 

AMERICA. 

Extract  from  IlunVs  Merchanfa  Magazine. 

♦'  In  the  rapidly  developlnr  ^reatness  of  North  America,  it  is  interesting 
to  look  to  the  future,  and  sp*  »late  on  the  most  probable  points  of  central- 
ization of  its  commercial  ana  social  power. 

"  Including  with  our  nation,  as  forming  an  important  part  of  its  com- 
mercial community,  the  Canadas,  and  contiguous  Provinces,  the  center 
of  population,  white  and  black,  is  a  little  west  of  Pittsburgh,  situated  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Ohio  River.  The  movement  of  this  center 
Is  north  of  west,  about  in  the  direction  of  Chicago.  The  center  of  pro- 
ductive power  can  not  be  ascertained  with  any  degree  of  precision.  We 
know  It  must  be  a  considerable  distance  east,  and  north  of  the  center  of 
population.  That  center,  too,  is  on  its  grand  march  westward.  Both,  in 
their  regului  progress,  will  reach  Lake  Michigan.  The  center  of  indus- 
trial power  will  touch  Lake  Eric,  and  possibly,  but  not  probably,  the  cen- 
ter of  population  now  move  so  far  northward  as  to  reach  Lake  Erie  alsp. 
Their  tendency  will  be  to  come  together ;  but  a  considerable  time  will  be 
requ'red  to  bring  them  into  near  proximity.  Will  the  movement  of  these 
centers  be  arrested  before  they  reach  Lake  Michigan  ?  I  think  no  one 
expects  it  to  stop  eastward  of  that  lake ;  few  will  claim  that  It  will  go  far 
beyond  it.  Is  it  not,  then,  as  certain  as  any  thing  in  the  future  can  be, 
that  the  central  power  of  the  continent  will  move  to,  and  become  perma- 
nent on,  the  border  of  the  Great  Lakes  ?  Around  these  pure  waters  will 
gather  the  densest  population,  and  on  their  borders  will  grow  up  the  best 
towns  and  cities.  As  the  centers  of  population  and  wealth  approach,  and 
pass  Cleveland,  that  city  should  swell  to  large  size.  Toledo  will  be  still 
nearer  the  lines  of  their  movement,  and  should  be  more  favorably  affected 
by  them,  as  the  aggregate  power  of  the  continent  will,  by  that  time,  be 
greatly  increased.  As  these  lines  move  westward  toward  Chicago,  the 
influence  of  their  position  will  be  divided  between  that  city  and  Toledo, 
distributing  benefits  according  to  the  degree  of  proximity. 

"  If  wo  had  no  foreign  commerce,  and  all  other  circumstances  were 
equal,  the  greatest  cities  would  grow  up  along  the  lino  of  the  central  In- 
dustrial power,  in  Its  western  progress,  each  new  city  becoming  greater 
than  its  predecessor,  by  the  amount  of  power  accumulated  on  the  conti- 
nent for  concentration  from  point  to  point  of  Its  prog:ress.  But  as  there 
are  points  from  one  resting-place  to  another  possessmg  greatly  superior 
advantages  for  commerce  over  all  others,  and  near  enough  the  center  llnrt 
of  industrial  power  to  approjprlate  the  commerce  which  it  offers,  to  these 
points  we  must  look  for  our  future  great  cities.  To  become  chief  of  these, 
there  must  be  united  in  them  the  best  facilities  for  transport,  by  water  and 
by  land.  It  la  too  plain  to  need  proof,  that  these  positions  ftre  occupied  by 
Cleveland,  Toledo,  and  Chicago! 

"  But  we  have  a  foreign  commerce  beyond  the  continent  of  North  Amer- 
ica, by  means  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  bearing  the  proportion,  we  will  allow, 
of  one  to  twenty  of  the  domestic  commerce  within  the  continent.  Thin 
proportion  will  seem  small  to  persons  who  have  not  dlreciod  particular 
attention  to  the  subject  It  is,  nevertheless,  within  the  truth.  The  proof 
of  this  is  difficult,  only  because  we  can  not  get  the  figures  that  represent 
the  numberless  exchanges  of  equivalents  among  each  other,  In  such  a 
community  as  ours 

"It  can  scarcely  admit  of  a  doubt,  that  the  domestic  commerce  of  North 
America  bears  a  proportion  as  large  as  twenty  to  one  of  its  foreign  com- 
merce,   ilas  internal  commerce  a  tendency  to  concentrate  in  few  points* 


I, 


if 

r 


«p 


200 


POPULATION,    COMMERCE,   ETC. 


like  foreii^  commerce  Is  its  tendency  to  concentrAtion  ess  than  tliat  of 
foreign  commerce ?  No  difference  in  this  respect  can  be  perceived.  Ail 
commerce  develops  that  law  of  its  nature  to  the  extent  of  its  means.  For- 
eiga  commerce  concentrates  chiefly  at  those  ports  where  it  meets  the 

greatest  internal  commerce.  The  dom^^stic  commerce  being  the  great 
ody,  draws  to  It  the  smaller  body  of  foreign  commerce.  New  York,  by 
her  canals,  her  railroads,  and  her  superior  position  for  coastwise  naviga- 
tion, has  drawn  to  herself  most  of  our  foreign  commerce,  because  she  has 
become  the  most  convenient  point  for  the  concentration  of  our  domestic 
trade.  It  is  absurd  to  suppose  she  can  always,  or  even  for  half  a  century, 
remain  the  best  point  for  the  concentration  of  domestic  trade ;  and  aa  the 
foreign  commerce  will  every  year  bear  a  less  and  less  proportion  to  the 
domestic  commerce,  it  can  hardly  be  doubted  that  before  the  end  of  one 
century  from  this  time  the  great  center  of  commerce  of  all  kinds  for  North 
America  will  be  on  a  lake  harbor.  Supposing  the  center  of  population 
(now  west  of  Pittsburgh)  shall  average  a  yearly  movement  westward,  for 
the  next  fifty  years,  of  twenty  miles,  this  would  carry  it  <  le  thousand 
miles  northwestward  from  Pittsburgh,  and  some  five  hundred  or  more 
miles  beyond  the  central  point  of  the  natural  resources  of  the  country.  It 
would  pass  Cleveland  in  five  years,  and  Toledo  in  eleven  years,  reaching 
Chicago,  or  some  point  south  of  it,  in  less  than  twenty-flve  years.  Tlie 
geographical  center  of  industrial  power  is  probably  now  in  northeastern 
Pennsylvania,  having  but  recently  left  the  city  of  New  York,  where  it 
partially  now  for  a  time  remains.  This  center  will  move  at  a  somewhat 
slower  rate  than  the  center  of  population.  Supposing  its  movement  to  be 
fifteen  miles  a  year,  it  will  reach  Clevela.id  in  twenty  years,  Toledo  in 
twenty-seven  years,  and  Chicago  in  forty-five  years. 

********** 

"  At  the  present  rate  of  Increase,  the  United  States  and  the  Canadas, 
fifty  years  from  this  time,  will  contain  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  mil- 
lions of  people.  If  we  suppose  it  to  be  one  hundred  and  five  millions,  and 
that  these  shall  be  distributed  so  that  the  Pacific  States  shall  have  ten  mil- 
lions, and  the  Atlantic  border  twenty-five  millions,  there  will  be  left  for  the 
great  interior  plain  seventy  millions.  These  seventy  millions  will  have 
twenty  times  as  much  commercial  intercourse  with  each  other  as  with  all 
the  world  besides.  It  is  obvious,  then,  that  there  must  be  built  up  in 
their  midst  the  great  city  of  the  continent ;  and  not  only  so,  but  that  they 
will  sustain  several  cities  greater  than  those  which  can  be  sustained  on 
the  ocean  border." 


than  that  of 

ceived.    All 

leans.    For- 

t  meets  the 

g  the  great 

ew  York,  by 

vise  naviga- 

ause  she  has 

)ur  domestic 

ilf  a  century, 

;  and  as  the 

ortion  to  the 

e  end  of  one 

ids  for  North 

>f  population 

tvestward,  for 

le  thousand 

ired  or  more 

country.    It 

ars,  reaching 

years.    The 

northeastern 

ork,  where  it 

,  a  somewhat 

)vement  to  be 

irs,  Toledo  in 

*  * 

the  Canadas, 
id  twenty  mil- 
)  millions,  and 
have  ten  mil- 
be  left  for  the 
ons  will  have 
[ler  as  with  all 
)e  built  up  in 
but  that  they 
I  sustained  on 


f 


"1*  '■'iir 

4% 


RAILRO 
FAL< 

The  mc 
of  Niagar 
the  Buffai 
in  length. 
Falls,  22 
the  Great 
ton,  the  hi 

Araerics 
ton  severa 
the  St.  La 

There  is 
Steamboai 
Chippewa 
miles  in  h 
House,  th 
miles;  Qu 
thirty-fiv< 

A.S  the 
view  may 
River.    0 
niins  of  c 
1814.    It 


RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  ROUTES  FROM  BUF- 
FALO TO  NIAGARA  FALLS,  TORONTO,  ETC. 


The  most  usual  mode  of  conveyance  from  Buffalo  to  the  Falls 
of  Niagara^  and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario,  or  into  Canada,  is  by 
the  Buffalo^  JViagara  Falls  and  Lewiston  Railroad.,  28  miles 
in  length.  It  runs  through  Tonawanda,  11  miles;  Niagara 
Falls,  22  miles ;  Suspension  Bridge,  24  miles,  connecting  with 
the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  and  terminates  at  Lewis- 
ton,  the  head  of  navigation  on  Niagara  River,  28  miles. 

American  and  Canadian  steamers  of  a  large  class  leave  Lewis- 
ton  several  times  daily,  for  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

There  is  also  another  very  desirable  mode  of  conveyance,  by 
Steamboat,  descending  the  Niagara  River,  from  Buffalo  to 
Chippewa,  C.  W.,  thence  by  the  Erie  and  Ontario  Railroad^  17 
miles  in  length ;  passing  in  full  view  of  the  Falls,  to  tho  Clifton 
House,  three  miles  below  Chippewa;  Suspension  Bridge,  five 
miles;  Queenston,  eleven  miles,  terminating  at  Niagara,  C.  W., 
thirty-five  miles  from  Buffalo. 

A.S  the  Steamboat  leaves  Buffalo  on  the  latter  route,  a  fine' 
view  may  be  obtained  of  Lake  Erie  and  both  shores  of  Niagara 
River.     On  the  Canada  side,  the  first  object  of  interest  are  the 
ruins  of  old  Fort  Erie,  captured  by  the  Americans  July  3d, 
1814.    It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  opposite  the  site  of  a 


n 


'H 


',  K 


I  I*  I  L 


J.IIISTT71ilCBLL.BtilSuhex  aii^PeaXRrliLKAf9,OtrmBB 


m  or  nuEVUi  *«' 


Inlfiuiiex  ai}<l.Peal«x  lii.KA7S,0«rn)£B001S,ar 


202 


BUFFALO   TO   NIAGARA   FALLS,   ETC. 


P'-*  "^ 


strong  fortress  which  the  United  Stat-es  government  have  recejU- 
ly  erected  for  the  protection  of  the  river  and  the  city  of  Bufifulo. 
Waterloo,  C.  W.,  three  miles  below  Buflfalo  and  opposite 
Black  Kg  ;k  (now  a  part  of  Buflfalo),  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  a  steam-ferry,  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
Niag^tra  rtiver,  which  is  here  about  helf  a  mile  wide.  The 
Buffalo  and  Lake  Huron  Railroad  runs  from  Fort  Erie,  near 
Waterloo,  to  Paris,  C.  W.,  where  it  connects  with  the  Great 
Western  Railway  of  Canada.  It  is  now  completed  to  Stratford, 
116  miles,  will  soon  be  finished  to  Qoderich,  lying  on  L.  Huron. 

Grand  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States,  is  passed  on 
the  right  in  descending  the  river.  It  is  a  large  and  valuable 
tract  of  good  latid,  abounding  with  white  oak  of  a  superior 
quality. 

Navy  Island,  belonging  to  the  British,  is  next  passed,  lying 
within  gunshot  of  the  mainland.  This  island  obtains  i  great 
notoriety  in  the  fall  and  winter  of  1837-8,  when  it  was  occupied 
by  the  "Patriots,"  as  they  were  styled,  during  the  troubles  in 
Canada.  The  steamer  Caroline  was  destroyed  on  the  night  of 
December  29th,  1837,  while  lying  at  Schlosser's  Landing,  on  the 
American  shore,  having  been  engaged  in  transporting  persons  to 
and  from  the  island,  which  was  soon  after  evacuated. 

Opposite  Navy  Island,  on  the  Canada  aide,  near  Chippewa  bat- 
tle-ground, is  the  house  in  which  Capt.  Usher  re?)ided  when  mur- 
dered in  1838.  It  is  supposed  he  fell  by  the  hands  of  some  of  the 
deluded  patriots,  having  been  shot  by  a  secret  foe,  while  in  his 
own  house. 

Chippewa,  20  miles  below  Buflfalo  and  two  miles  above  the 
Falls,  is  on  the  west  side  of  Niagara  River,  at  the  mouth  of  a 
creek  of  the  same  name,  which  is  navigable  to  Port  Kubinson, 
some  eight  or  ten  miles  west ;  the  latter  place  being  on  the  line 
of  the  Welland  Canal.  The  village  of  Chippewa  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  about  1 ,000  souls.  Steamboats  and  lake  craft  of  a  large 
BLe  are  built  at  this  place  for  the  trade  of  Lake  Erie  and  the 
Upper  I^akes.  It  has  obtained  a  place  in  history  on  account  of 
the  bloody  battle  which  was  fought  near  it  in  the  war  of  1812, 
between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The  battle  was 
fought  on  the  5th  of  July,  1814,  on  the  plains  a  short  distance 
south  of  the  steamboat  landing.  The  American  forces  were 
commanded  by  Major  Gen.  Jacob  Brown,  and  the  British,  by 
Major  General  Riall,  who,  after  an  obstinate  and  sanguinary 
fight,  was  defeated  with  consiaerable  loss. 


Ate] 
ai  the 
continul 
nishingi 
Erie  an) 

Onai 
cfi.:t>  stoj 
ing  to  tf 
giviLg  t[ 
Horse-Sl 
windoT»i 

In  ad{ 
on  the  CI 
the  Mus{ 
beautifu 
of  a  visi 
also  mu( 
in  this 
cursion. 

Drum 
on  Lund} 
ary  enga 
July  25, 

Thefol 
ment.  *• 
army  was 
ascending 
the  imm( 
advanced 
British  hi 
on  the  5tl 
flict  of  tl 
attacked, 
about  3,0 
by  the  mi 
pieces  of  c 
on  the  an 
came  gen( 
on  both  si 
and  resist 
assumed  1 
having  ui 
(America 
artillery  ( 
bayonet  h 
army,  wai 
tested  uni 


BUFFALO    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS,    ETC. 


203 


have  reccnt- 
yof  Bufifulo. 
and  opposite 
is  connected 
wrest  side  of 
I  wide.  The 
pt  Erie,  near 
1  the  Great 
to  Stratford, 
on  L.  Huron. 

,  is  passed  on 
md  valuable 
f  a  superior 


passed,  lying 
tainei  great 
was  occupied 
e  troubles  in 

the  nisrht  of 
bding,  on  the 
ig  persons  to 
ed. 

hippewa  bat- 
d  when  mur- 
f  some  of  the 

while  in  his 

es  above  the 
3  mouth  of  a 
r  Robinson, 
g  on  the  line 
ains  a  popu- 
aft  of  a  large 
Crie  and  the 
1  account  of 
var  of  1812, 
battle  was 
ort  distance 
forces  were 
British,  by 
sanguinary 


At  Chippewa  commences  the  railroad  extending  to  Niagara, 
ai  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a  distance  of  17  miles.  Steamboats 
continue  the  line  of  travel  from  both  ends  of  this  road,  thus  fur- 
nishing an  interesting  ani  speedy  conveyance  between  Lakes 
Krie  and  Ontario. 

On  arriving  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls  or  Niaoaba,  the 
ca*'6  stop  near  the  Clifton  House^  situated  near  the  ferry  lead- 
ing to  the  American  side.  The  site  oi  this  house  was  chosen  as 
giviLg  the  best  view  of  both  the  American  and  Canadian  or 
Horse-Shoe  Falls,  which  are  seen  from  the  piazzas  and  front 
windoifvs.    This  is  the  most  interesting  approach  to  the  Falls. 

In  addition  to  ^,he  Falls,  there  are  other  points  of  attraction 
on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river.  The  collection  of  curiosities  at 
the  Museum,  and  the  Camera  Obscura,  which  gives  an  exact  and 
beautiful,  though  miniature  image  of  the  Falls,  are  well  worthy 
of  a  visit.  The  .Jurning  Spring,  two  miles  above  the  Falls,  is 
also  much  frequented;  and  the  rides  to  the  battle-grounds 
in  this  vicinity  make  an  exhilarating  and  very  pleasant  ex- 
cursion.   For  further  description  of  Falls,  see  pnge  211. 

Drummondsvillk,  one  mile  west  of  the  Falls,  and  situated 
on  Lundy*s  Lane,  if!  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  another  sanguin- 
ary engagement  between  the  American  and  British  forces, 
July  25, 1814. 

The  following  is  a  brief,  though  correct  account  of  the  engage- 
ment. "  On  the  afternoon  of  the  above  day,  while  the  American 
army  was  on  their  march  from  Fort  George  toward  Fort  Erie, 
ascending  the  west  bank  of  the  river,  their  rear  guard,  under 
the  immediate  command  of  Ocn.  Scott,  was  attacked  by  the 
advanced  guar*^  of  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Riall,  the 
British  having  been  reinforced  after  their  defeat  at  Chippewa, 
on  the  5th  of  the  same  month.  This  brought  on  a  general  con- 
flict of  the  most  obstinate  and  deadly  character.  As  soon  as 
attacked.  Gen.  Scott  advanced  with  his  division,  amounting  to 
about  3,000  men,  to  the  open  ground  facing  the  heights  occupied 
by  the  main  British  array,  where  were  planted  several  heavy 
pieces  of  cannoi  .  Between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening, 
on  the  arrival  of  reinforcements  to  both  armies,  the  battle  be- 
came general  and  raged  for  several  hours,  with  alternate  "^ess 
on  both  sides ;  each  army  evincing  the  most  determined  ;  .jry 
and  resistance.  The  command  of  the  respective  forces  »  now 
assumed  by  Maj.  Gen.  Brown  and  Lieut.  Gen.  Drummona,  each 
having  under  his  command  a  well-disciplined  army.  The  brave 
(American)  Col.  Miller  was  ordered  to  advance  and  seize  the 
artillery  of  the  British,  which  he  eflfected  at  tlie  point  of  the 
bayonet  in  the  most  gallant  manner.  Gen.  Riall,  of  the  English 
army,  was  captured,  and  the  possession  of  the  battle-ground  con- 
tested until  near  midnight,  when  1,700  men  being  either  killed 


i^^ 


Pi 


'U 


4  ' 


204 


BUFFALO   TO   NIAGARA   FALLS,    ETC. 


or  Toiinded,  the  conflictinff  armies,  amonntiilg  altoffethor  to 
about  6,000  strong,  ccasea  the  deadly  conflict,  and  for  a  time 
the  bloody  field  was  left  unoccupied,  except  by  the  dead  and 
wounded.  When  the  British  discovered  that  the  Americans  had 
encamped  one  or  two  miles  distant,  they  returned  and  occupied 
their  former  ^  *tion.  Thus  ended  one  of  the  most  bloody  con- 
flicts that  occv  \  during  the  last  war ;  and  while  each  party 
boasted  a  victory ,  altogether  too  dearly  bought,  neither  was  dis- 
posed to  renew  the  conflict." 

Clifton  is  a  new  and  flourishing  village,  situated  at  the 
western  termination  of  the  Great  Western  Railway,  where  it 
connects  with  the  Suspension  Bridge.  For  description  of 
route  to  Detroit,  etc.,  see  page  150. 

QuEENBTON,  situatod  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,  and  about 
the  same  distance  above  the  entrance  of  Niagara  River  into  Lake 
Ontario,  lies  directly  opposite  the  village  of  Lewiston,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  suspension  bridge  850  feet  in  length. 
It  contains  about  600  inhabitants,  60  dwelling-houses,  one 
Episcopal,  one  Scotch  Presbyterian,  and  one  Baptist  church, 
four  taverns,  four  stores,  and  three  warehouses.  This  place  is 
also  celebrated  as  being  the  scene  of  a  deadly  strife  between  the 
American  and  British  forces,  Oct.  13, 1812.  The  American  troops 
actually  engaged  in  the  fight  were  commanded  by  Gen.  Solomon 
Van  Rensselaer,  and  both  the  troops  and  their  commander 
greatly  distinguished  themselves  for  their  bravery,  although 
ultimately  overpowered  by  superior  numbers.  In  attempting  to 
regain  their  own  side  of  the  river  many  of  the  Americana 
perished,  the  whole  loss  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners 
amounting  to  at  least  1 ,000  men. 

Major  Gen.  Brock,  the  British  commander,  was  killed  in  the 
middle  of  the  fight,  while  leading  on  his  men.  A  new  monument 
stands  on  the  heights,  near  where  he  fell,  erected  to  his  memory. 
The  first  monument  was  nearly  destroyed  by  gunpowder,  April 
17,  1840 ;  an  infamous  act,  said  to  have  been  perpetrated  by  a 
jierson  concerned  in  the  insurrection  of  1837-38. 

Brock's  new  Monument  was  commenced  in  1858,  and 
finished  in  1856 ;  being  185  feet  high,  ascended  on  the  inside  by 
a  spiral  staircase  of  235  stone  steps.  The  base  is  40  feet  sqaare 
and  35  feet  in  height,  surmounted  by  a  tablet  85  feet  high,  with 
historical  devices  on  the  four  sides.  The  main  shaft,  about  100 
feet,  is  fluted  and  surmounted  by  a  Corinthian  capital,  on  which 
is  placed  a  colossal  figure  of  Major  General  Brock,  18  feet  in 
height.  This  beautiful  structure  cost  £10,000  sterling,  being 
entirely  constructed  of  a  cream-colored  stone  quarried  in  th« 


MIAGAKA  FALLS. 


217 


BAT£  OF  CHABOES  AT  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

The  following  are  the  rate  of  charges  usually  exacted  from 
persons  yisiting  Niagara  Falls — but,  unfortunately,  impositions 
are  often  practiced  by  anprincipled  individuals,  at  this,  as  well 
08  other  fashionable  resorts : 

AMERICAN    SIDE. 

Board,  from  one  to  two  and  a  half  dollars  per  day. 
For  serrices  of  guide,  from  one  to  three  dollars. 
For  guide  behind  the  Central  Fall,  and  visiting  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds,  one  dollar. 
For  crossmg  bridge  to  Goat  Island,  25  cents. 
Fare  to  and  from  Suspension  Bridge,  12^  cents. 
Fare  for  crossing  Suspension  Bridge,  25  cents. 
Fore  to  the  Whirlpool,  50  cents. 
For  use  of  steps  or  cars  on  Inclined  Plane,  6  j  cents. 
Ferriage  to  Canada  side,  18|  cents. 
Omnibus  fare  and  steam  ferriage  to  Canada  side,  25  cents. 

CANADA   BIDE. 

Board,  from  one- to  two  and  a  hal   dollars  per  day. 

Visiting  Bamett's  Museum,  Camera  Obscura,  and  Pleasure 
Grounds,  25  cents. 

For  guide  and  use  of  dress  to  pass  behind  the  Fall  at  Table 
Rock,  one  dollar.   '  * 

Carriage  fare  from  ferry  to  Clifton  House,  64  cents. 

Carriage  fare  to  Whirlpool,  Lundy's  Lane  Battle  Ground, 
Burning  Spring,  and  back  to  Ferry,  60  to  75  cents. 

Guide  to  Battle  Ground  and  visiting  Monument,  25  cents. 

Carriage  fare  to  Brock's  Monument  on  Queenston  Heights, 
one  dollar. 

Carriage  fare  per  day,  four  dollars. 

The  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls,  on  both  sides  of  the 
river,  are  unrivaled,  and  no  visitor  should  lose  the  opportunity 
to  visit  all  the  objects  of  attraction  above  and  below  the  mighty 
Cataract.  *  . 


4^e  '■ 


'i 


218 


BUFFALO    TO    LRWI8T0V,    ETC. 


iv 


Lbwiston,  Niagara  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  delightfully  sitnated  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Niagara  River,  seTiii  miles  belnw  the  Falls, 
and  seven  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  where  it  falls  into 
Lake  Ontario.  It  is  an  incorporated  village  and  contains  about 
1,000  inhabitants,  four  churches,  an  incorporated  academy ;  a 
custom-house,  it  being  the  port  of  entry  for  the  district  of 
Niagara;  three  hotels,  nine  stores,  and  three  storehouses. 
Here  is  a  very  convenient  steamboat  landing,  from  which 
steamers  depart  daily  for  Oswego,  Ogdensburgh,  etc.,  on  the 
American  side,  and  for  Toronto,  Kingston,  etc.,  on  the  Canadian 
side.  The  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls  and  Lewiston  Railroad  ter- 
minates at  this  place,  where  is  a  magnificent  Suspension  Bridge 
thrown  across  the  Niagara  connecting  Lewiston  witli  Queenston, 
Canada.  The  mountain  ridge  here  rises  about  800  feet  above 
the  river,  forming  many  picturesque  and  romantic  points  of 
great  interest.  On  the  American  side  of  the  river  stands  the 
site  of  old  Fort  Gray,  erected  during  the  war  of  1812,  while  on 
the  Canadian  side  are  situated  QueenBton  Heights,  surmounted 
by  a  beautiful  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Gen.  Brock, 
of  the  British  army,  who  was  here  killed  in  a  sanguinary  con- 
flict, October  13th,  1812.  From  this  height  a  most  extensive 
and  grand  view  is  obtained  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  surround- 
ing country. 

YouNGSTOwN,  six  mllcs  below  Lewiston,  and  one  mile  above 
old  Fort  Niagara  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  a  regular  steam- 
boat landing.  The  village  contains  about  800  inhabitants; 
three  churches,  two  public  houses,  five  stores,  and  two  flouring- 
mills,  besides  other  manufacturing  establishments.  A  railroad 
is  nearly  completed,  extending  from  this  place  to  Niagara  Falls, 
being  a  continuation  of  the  Canandaigua  and  Niagara  Falls 
Railroad,  now  completed  to  the  Suspension  Bridge  A  ferry 
plies  from  Youngstown  to  the  village  of  Niagara  on  the  Canada 
side  of  the  river,  here  about  half  a  mile  in  width.  This  is  the 
first  landing,  on  the  American  side  of  the  river,  after  leaving 
the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario. 


iM\  I 


LAKE   ONTARIO. 


219 


siinated  on  the 
i«lrtw  the  Palla, 
lere  it  falls  into 
contains  about 
ed  academy;  a 
the  district  of 
ee  storehouses, 
g,  from  which 
^h,  eto.,  on  the 
)n  the  Canadian 
n  Railroad  tcr- 
sponsion  Bridge 
witli  Queenston, 
t  800  feet  above 
lantic  points  of 
river  stands  the 
f  1812,  while  on 
hts,  surmounted 
V  of  Gen.  Brock, 
sanguinary  con- 
most  extensiyc 
d  the  surround- 

one  mile  above 
regular  steam- 
K)  inhabitants; 
id  two  flouring- 
ts.  A  railroad 
)  Niagara  Falls, 

Niagara  Falls 
idge      A  ferry 

on  the  Canada 
Ith.    This  is  the 

,  after  leaving 


LAKE  ONTARIO. 

Tkib  Lake,  the  most  eastern  of  the  great  chain  of  Lakes  of 
North  America,  receives  the  surplus  waters  of  Niagara  River ; 
it  is  180  miles  in  length,  and  GO  miles  in  extreme  breadth; 
being  about  485  miles  in  circumference.  The  boundary  line 
between  the  Bntish  Possessions  and  the  United  States  runs 
through  the  middle  of  the  lake,  and  so  continues  down  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  the  45  th  degree  of  north  latitude,  where  the  river 
enters  Canada. 

T)ie  lake  is  navigable  throughout  its  whole  extent  for  vessels 
of  the  largest  size ;  and  it  is  said  to  be  in  some  places  upward 
of  600  feet  in  depth.  Its  surface  is  elevated  234  feet  above  the 
Atlantic,  and  lies  830  feet  lower  than  Lake  Erie,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  the  Niagara  River  and  by  the  Welland  Canal 
in  Canada.  It  has  also  been  proposed  to  construct  a  ship  canal 
on  the  American  side.  The  trade  of  Lake  Ontario,  from  the 
great  extent  of  inhabited  country  surrounding  it,  is  very  con- 
siderable, and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Many  sail  vessels  and 
gplendid  steamers  are  employed  in  navigating  its  waters,  which, 
owing  to  its  great  depth,  never  freezes,  except  at  the  sides, 
where  the  water  is  shallow ;  so  that  its  navigation  is  not  so  ef- 
fectually interrupted  by  ice  as  some  of  the  other  large  lakes. 
The  most  important  places  on  the  Canadian  or  British  side  of 
Lake  Ontario  are  Kingston,  Coburg,  Port  Hope,  Toronto,  Ham- 
ilton, and  Niagara;  on  the  American  shore,  Cnpe  Vincent, 
Sacket's  Harbor,  Oswego,  Charlotte  or  Port  Genesee,  and  Lew- 
iston  on  Niagara  River.  This  lake  is  connected  with  the  navi- 
gable waters  of  the  Hudson  lliver  by  means  of  the  Oswego  and 
Erie  canals.  It  receives  numerous  streams,  both  from  the 
Canadian  and  the  American  sides,  and  abounds  with  a  great 
variety  of  fish  of  an  excellent  flavor.  The  bass  and  salmon,  in 
particular,  have  a  hich  reputation,  and  are  taken  in  large 
quantities.  The  piincipal  Bays  are  Burlington,  Irondequoit, 
Great  and  Little  Sodus,  Mexico,  Black  River,  Chaumont,  and 
the  picturesque  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Quinte. 


■X 


N^- 


220 


LAKE   ONTARIO. 


I  / 


The  passage  across  Lake  Ontario  in  calm  weather  is  most 
agreeable.  At  times  both  shores  are  hidden  from  view,  when 
nothing  can  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel  but  an  abyss 
of  waters.  The  refractions  which  sometimes  take  place  in 
summer,  are  exceedingly  beautiful,  islands  and  trees  appear 
turned  upside  down  ;  and  the  white  surf  of  the  beach,  trans- 
lated aloft,  seems  like  the  smoke  of  artillery  blazing  away  from 
a  fort.* 


*  Lkautifitl  Mirage.— That  grand  phenomenon  occasionally  witnessed 
on  the  Lakes— mirage— was  seen  from  the  steamer  Bay  State,  on  a  recent 
trip  from  Niagara  to  Genesee  Kiver  (August,  1S56),  with  more  than  or- 
dinary splendor.  The  Lockport  Journal  says  it  occurred  Just  as  the  sun 
was  seUmg,  at  which  time  some  twelve  vessels  were  seen  reflected  on  the 
horizon,  in  an  inverted  position,  with  a  distinctness  and  vividness  truly 
surprising.  The  atmosphere  was  overcast  with  a  thick  haze  such  as  pre- 
cedes a  storm,  and  of  a  color  favorable  to  represent  upon  the  darkened 
background,  vividly,  the  full  outlines  of  the  rigging,  sails,  etc.,  as  perfect 

A  if  the  ships  themselves  were  actually  transformed  to  the  aerial  canvas. 
The  unusual  phenomenon  lasted  until  darkness  put  an  end  to  the  scene. 


EOUIE  AROUND  LAKE   ONTARIO. 

Miles. 

Kingston,  C.  W.,  to  Toronto,  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  160 

Toronto  to  Hamilton,  C.  W.,  Toronto  and  Hamilton  R.R.  38 

Hamilton  *o  Suspension  Bridge,  via  Great  Western  R.R. .  43 
Suspension  Bridge  to  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  via  JST.  Y.  Central 

Railway 76 

Rochester  to.  Oswego,  N.  Y.,  by  stage 70 

Oswego  to  Richland,  N.  Y.,          «*        35 

Richland  to  Cape  Vincent,  via  Watertown  and  Rome  R,R.  55 

Cape  Vincent  to  Kingston,  C.  W.,  via  Wolfe  Island 12 

TotalMiles 489 

Note. — The  extreme  length  of  Lake  Eric  is  180  miles,  from 
Cape  Vincent  to  Hamilton,  C.  W. ;  being  about  four  times  as 
long  as  its  greatest  width.     The  circuit  of  the  water  is  esti- 
nated  at  460  miles.     See  Lake  Erie^  pajs?e  163. 


STEAMBOAT   ROUTES. 


221 


AMERICAN  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  LEWISTON  TO 
OSWEGO,  KINGSTON,  AND  OGDENSBURGH. 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Lewiston 0 

Youngstown 6 

JViagaraj  Can 1-7 

Charlotte,     or     Port 

Genesee 80-87 

Pultneyville.  -. 20-107 

SodusPoint 10-117 

Oswego 80^147 

Stoney Point andlsland  83-180 

Sackefs  Harbor 12-192 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Ogdensburgh 0 

Morristown 11 

Brockville,  Can. 1-12 

Thousand  Islands. . . 

Alexandria  Bay 22-34 

Clayton,    or    French 

Creek 12-46 

Grand,  or  Wolfe  Island 

KixGSTON,  Can 24-70 

Sackefs  Harbor 88-108 


Grand,  or  Wolfe  Island  28-220    Stoney  Point  and  Island  12-120 


Kingston,  Can 10-230 

Thousand  Islands. . . 
Clayton,    or    IVench 

Creek 24-254 

Alexandria  Bay 12-266 


Oswego 33-163 

SodusPoint 30-183 

Pultneyville , . . .  10-193 

Charlotte,     or     Port 

Genesee 20-213 


Brockville,  Can 22-288    JSTiagara,  Can 80-293 

Morristown 1-289     Youngstown 1-294 

Ogdbnsburgh 11-800    Lewiston 6-300 

Usual  Time  from  Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh,  via  Oswego  and 
Kingston,  28  hours. 

Usual  Time,  via  Toronto  and  Cape  Vincent,  22  hours. 

Cabin  Fare,  $5  50  (including  meals).    Deck  Fare,  $2  50. 


m. 


■    P 


STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  LEWISTON  TO  TORONTO 
OGDENSBURGH,  via  EXPRESS  LINE. 

Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

LlEWlSTON 0 

Niagara 7 

Toronto,  Can 42-49 

Point  Peter  and  Light  128-177 

Buck  Island 80-207 

libbers  Point  and  L.    19-226 


AND 


Ports,  etc. 

Miles. 

Ogdensburgh 

0 

Brockville,  Can, 

11 

Clayton,  or   French 

Creek 

84-46 

Cape  Vincent.  ... 

18-68 

Tibbet's  Point 

8-61. 

19* 


222 


BTBAMBOAT    ROUTES. 


it    ' 


ifcf 


Forts,  etc.  Miles. 

Cape  Vincent 3-229 

Clayton,  or   French 

'  Creek 13-242 

Broekville,  Can 84-276 

Ogdensburgh 1 1-297 


Ports,  etc.  Miles. 

Duck  Island 19-80 

Point  Peter  and  Light    80-110 

Toronto 128-238 

Niagara 42-280 

Lewiston 7-287 


Usual  Fare,  from  Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal,    $3  50 
Through  Fare,  from  Lewiston  to  Montreal,  9  00 

from  Buffalo  to  Montreal,  10  00 


{( 


(( 


AMERICAN   STEAMERS. 

OMTABIO  AND  ST.  LAWRENCE  STEAMBOAT  COMPAKY'S  OFFICE,  OSWEGO,  K.  T. 

E.  B.  Allen,  Pres.,  Ogdensburgh. 

Jas.  Van  Cleve,  Sec.  and  Treas  ,  Lewiston. 

Steamer  Bay  State,  1,098 tons. Capt.  John  Ledyard. 


New  York,  1,200 
Northerner,  905 
Cataract,  577 
Niagara,  473 
Ontario,         832 


C( 


(C 


« 


« 


« 


ft 


(( 


(( 


(( 


« 


R.  B.  Chapman. 
R.  F.  Child. 
Jas.  R.  Ester. 
John  Morley. 
H.  N.  Throop. 


One  of  the  above  steamers  leaves  Lewiston  daily  for  Charlotte, 
Oswego,  Sacket's  Harbor,  Kingston,  and  Ogdensburgh,  returning 
by  the  way  of  Cape  Vincent,  Toronto,  etc.,  to  Lewiston. 

A  steamer  of  the  same  line  also  leaves  Lewiston  daily  for 
Toronto,  Cape  Vincent,  and  Ogdensburgh,  returning  by  the  way 
of  Sacket's  Harbor,  Oswego,  Charlotte,  etc.,  to  Lewiston,  con- 
necting with  cars  runn'ng  to  Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo,  ete. 


ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER  STEAMERS, 

XUKIOKG  IN  CONNECTION  WITH   THE  ABOVE   BOATS,  FORMING  A  THBOUOD 

LINE  TO  MONTBEAL. 


Steamer  British-  Queen,  300  tons Capt.  A.  Cameron. 

*'      Jenny  Lind,       300  "     «      L.  Moody. 

"      Montreal,  300  "     "      John  Laflame. 

One  of  the  above  steamers  leaves  Ogdensburgh,  daily,  during 
the  season  of  navigation,  for  Montreal,  passing  by  daylight 
through  the  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  returning  through  the 
Canals. 


MileiL 

19-80 

d  Light    80-110 

128-238 

42-280 

7-287 

*eal,    $3  50 

L,  9  00 

10  00 


FICE,  OSWEOO,  K.  T. 

urgh. 
iston. 

John  Ledyard. 

R.  B.  Chapman. 

R.  F.  Child. 

Jas.  R.  Ester. 

John  Morley. 

H.  N.  Throop. 
lyfor  Charlotte, 
>urgh,  returning 
■ewiston. 
w^iston  daily  for 
aing  by  the  way 

Lewiston,  con- 
ffalo,  etc. 

JS, 

RMIira  A  THBOUOa 

b.  A.  Cameron. 

L.  Moody. 

John  Laflame. 
h,  daily,  during 
ng  by  daylight 
ling  through  the 


PJ 


eo 


&< 


TRIP  FROM  LEWISTON  TO  OSWEGO,  KINGSTON, 
AND  OGDE^SBURGH. 


ill 


I   0 

0 

I 

0 


P2 

t 
to 


0 


< 

c 


During  the  season  of  nayigation,  steamers  of  a  large  class, 
belonging  to  the  Ontario  and  St.  Lawrence  Steamboat  Com- 
pany, leave  Lewiston  daily,  following  the  south  or  American 
shore  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  thence  to  Ogdensburgh, 
on  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

On  leaving  the  wharf  at  Lewiston,  a  most  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive view  is  afforded  of  Niagara  River,  the  lower  Suspension 
Bridge,  Brock*8  Monument  on  Queenston  Heights,  and  the  vil- 
lages of  Lewiston  and  Queenston,  with  the  Mountain  Ridge  in 
the  background.  When  are  associated  the  stirring  hist  -jal 
eyents  connected  with  this  vicinity,  no  spot  exceeds  it  in  interest. 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  here  elevated  from  40  to  60  feet, 
with  bold  shores,  while  the  water  rushes  onward  into  Lake 
Ontario,  the  receptacle  of  all  the  waters  of  the  Upper  Lakes. 

Fort  Niagara,  seven  miles  below  Lewiston,  lying  on  the 
American  shore  at  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River,  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit  in  connection  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  George, 
on  the  Canadian  shore,  near  the  village  of  Niagara.  In  1679, 
M.  De  Salle,  the  explorer  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the  service  of 
France,  inclosed  the  spo^  on  which  the  fort  was  here  built  in 
1725,  by  palisades.  In  1759  it  was  taken  by  the  British,  under 
Sir  William  Johnson,  in  whose  hands  it  remained  until  1796, 
when  it  was  evacuated  and  given  up  to  the  United  States.  On 
the  19th  of  December,  1813,  it  was  again  taken  by  the  British 
by  surprise;  and  in  March,  1815,  again  surrendered  to  the 
Americans.  This  old  fort  is  as  much  noted  for  being  the  theater 
of  tyranny  and  crime  as  for  the  scenes  of  military  exploits. 
While  in  the  hands  of  the  French,  there  is  no  doubt  of  its  hav- 
ing been  at  times  used  as  a  prison.  In  its  close  and  impreg- 
nable dungeons,  where  light  was  not  admitted,  for  many  years 


~f.^ 


;4^ 


|^:,fW?;: 


I : 


III 


226      LKWISTON    TO   OSWEOO    AND    OGDENSBURGH. 

there  remained  clear  traces  of  the  ready  instruments  for  exe- 
cution or  for  murder.  During  the  war  of  the  Reyolution  it  was 
the  head-quarters  of  all  that  was  barbarous  and  unrelenting 
and  cruel ;  this  being  the  chief  rendezrous  of  a  sayage  horde 
that  carried  death  and  destruction  into  the  remote  American 
settlements.  Of  late  years,  the  abduction  of  William  Morgan, 
who  was  taken  from  the  jail  in  Canandaigua  and  conveyed 
more  than  100  miles  through  a  populous  country,  and  lodged 
in  the  magazine  at  Fort  Niagara,  where  he  was  kept  three  or 
four  days,  and  then  inhumanly  drowned — has  justly  tended  to 
continue  its  reputation  for  being  the  scene  of  tyranny  and 
murder. 

On  passing  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River,  and  reach- 
ing the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario,  a  deeply  interesting  view 
is  afforded  of  the  town  of  Niagara  and  Fort  Niagara,  situated 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  river,  while  in  the  distance  may  be  seen 
Brock's  Monument,  rising  nearly  500  feet  above  the  waters  of 
the  lake,  being  eight  or  ten  miles  distant. 

The  steamer  now  pursues  an  easterly  course  in  running  for 
Charlotte,  or  Port  Genesee,  80  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara 
River.  The  shores  of  the  lake  of  a  clear  day  are  generally  in 
sight,  presenting  an  elevated  and  bold  appearance  for  many 
miles.  Eighteen  Mile  Creek,  Thirty  Mile  Creek,  and  Oak 
Orchard  River  p/x-e  passed  in  succession ;  at  the  mouth  of  each 
there  are  harbors  and  small  settlements.  BraddocK's  Point 
is  a  bold  headland  ten  miles  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee 
River. 

Charlotte,  or  Port  Geivesee,  80  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
Niagara  River,  and  60  miles  west  from  Oswego,  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  Genesee  River,  seven  miles  by  railroad  below  the 
city  of  Rochester,  it  being  the  outport  for  that  place.  It  is 
a  port  of  entry,  possessing  a  safe  harbor,  being  protected  by  two 
long  government  piers,  on  one  of  which  is  located  a  light ;  there 
is  also  a  light-house  on  the  mainland.  The  village  contains 
about  400  inhabitants,  two  churches,  three  hotels,  four  stores, 
.^fbur  warehouses,  one  steam  elevator,  one  steam  saw-mill,  and 


fSBUROH. 


LBWISTON    TO   OSWKOO   AND   00DEN8BURGH.        227 


truments  for  exe- 
ReTolutionitwas 

and  imrelentiDg 
f  a  savage  horde 
remote  American 
William  Morgan, 
ua  and  conveyed 
intry,  and  lodged 
vras  kept  three  or 
i  jtistly  tended  to 

of  tyranny  and 

River,  and  reach- 
y  interesting  view 
Niagara,  situated 
kance  may  be  seen 
)Ove  the  waters  of 

iQ  in  running  for 

mouth  of  Niagara 

are  generally  in 

arance  for  many 

Creek,  and  Oak 

;he  mouth  of  each 

3raddock'8  Point 

th  of  the  Genesee 

rom  the  mouth  of 
go,  is  situated  at 
ulroad  below  the 
hat  place.    It  is 

protected  by  two 
ed  a  light;  there 

village  contains 
otels,  four  stores, 
am  saw-mill,  and 


an  extensive  brick-yard.  American  and  British  steamers  run 
direct  from  Charlotte  to  Cobourg,  Fort  Hope,  Toronto,  etc.,  on 
the  Canada  side  of  the  lake ;  also  to  Oswego,  Sacket's  Harbor, 
etc.,  on  the  American  side,  all  connecting  at  Charlotte  with 
railroad  cars  for  Rochester. 

The  Falls  of  the  Genesee,  near  Rochester,  are  well  wor  ay 
attention.  The  banks  of  the  river  immediately  above  Charlotte 
r'se  from  50  to  150  feet  in  height,  presenting  a  fine  appearance. 
The  river  is  navigable  for  five  or  six  miles  to  the  first  fall  at 
Carthage,  within  the  city  bounds  of  Rochester ;  then  other  falls 
occur,  the  principal  and  most  interesting  being  near  the  center 
of  the  city,  it  extending  on  both  Hides  of  the  stream.  The 
water- power  here  afforded  is  very  great,  being  used  to  a  great 
extent  in  propelling  flour-mills,  saw-mills,  etc 

Genesee  River,  a  deeply  interesting  and  romantic  stream, 
rises  in  Potter  Co.,  Pa.,  on  the  great  table-land  of  Western 
Pennsylvania,  interlocking  with  some  of  the  head  sources  of 
the  Alleghany  and  west  branch  of  the  Susquehanna  River ;  it 
then  pursues  a  north  course  to  the  New  York  State  line,  thence 
through  the  county  of  Allegany ;  then  by  many  short  turnings 
through  the  rich  and  fertile  valley  of  the  Genesee,  which  ex- 
tends through  Monroe  County,  where  it  falls  into  Lake  Ontario, 
six  miles  below  the  city  of  Rochester.  Its  whole  course  is  about 
145  miles.  Near  its  mouth,  within  the  present  city  limits  of 
Rochester,  are  two  or  three  important  falls,  known  as  the 
Genesee  Falh  ;  within  the  distance  of  three  miles  there  being 
an  estimated  descent  of  226  feet ;  the  great  falls  at  Rochester 
are  96  feet,  at  Carthage  75,  an  intermediate  one  of  20,  and  the 
rest,  rapids  or  small  falls;  altogether  affording  an  immense 
amount  of  hydraulic  power,  which  is  used  to  a  great  extent, 
particularly  at  the  Upper  Falls,  in  propelling  flouring-mills, 
and  different  kinds  of  manufacturing  establishments.  From 
the  landing  at  Carthage,  which  constitutes  a  part  of  the  city 
of  Bochester,  there  is  a  steamboat  navigation  to  Charlotte,  or 
Port  Genesee,  a  distance  of  four  miles,  where  is  a  good  harbor 
oommunicating  with  Lake  Ontario.     From  the  head  of  the 


Ifll 


228      LBWISTON    TO    OSWEGO    AND    0GDEN8BUK0H. 

rapids  above  Rochester  it  is  navigable  during  higb  water  for  a 
considerable  distance,  passin<;  through  a  rich  and  interesting 
region  of  country,  celebrated  for  its  fertility.  This  stream  now 
constitutes  the  main  feeder  of  the  Genesee  Valley  Canal j  which 
runs  parallel  to  it  for  the  greater  part  of  its  length  through 
the  State.  There  are  also  important  falls  on  this  river,  both  in 
Allegany  and  Livingston  counties,  where  are  to  be  found  some 
of  its  most  interesting  features.  In  the  town  of  Portage,  Alle- 
gany Co.,  *'  there  are  three  distinct  falls  on  the  river,  respec- 
tively 60,  90,  and  110  feet,  within  the  space  of  two  miles,  each 
differing  in  character,  and  each  having  peculiar  beauties. 
Although  the  cascades  are  highly  admirable,  they  are  almost 
disregarded  in  the  wonder  and  fear  caused  by  the  stupendous, 
perpendicular  walls  of  the  river,  rising  to  400  feet  in  height, 
and  extending  along  the  stream  for  three  miles,  with  almost  as 
much  regularity  as  if  constructed  by  art.  To  t:.  is  great  depth 
the  river  has  worn  its  bed  in  the  solid  rock,  in  turns  as  short 
and  graceful  as  if  winding  through  the  softest  meadow." 

After  leaving  Charlotte  for  Oswego  the  steamer  passes  Pult- 
neyville  (occasionally  stopping),  Great  Sodus  Bay  and  Little 
Sodus  Bay,  running  within  sight  of  the  south  shore ;  the  lake 
here  presenting  an  irregular  coast-line. 

Great  Sodus  Bay  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  affording  a 
secure  harbor  for  lake  craft,  being  from  ore  to  three  miles 
wide  and  five  miles  long.  The  fishing  is  here  good,  as  well  as 
4n  all  the  bays  along  the  south  shore  of  the  lake. 

Sonus  Point,  Wayne  Co.,  N.  Y.,  situated  at  the  entrance  of 
Great  Sodus  Bay,  is  a  port  of  entry,  with  a  good  harbor,  and 
contains  a  church,  a  public  house,  two  stores,  a  steam  saw-mill, 
and  abont  300  inhabitants. 

LrrTLE  Sodus  Bay,  14  miles  east  of  Great  Sodus,  is  another 
important  body  of  water.  "  A^  ^ittle  Sodus,  in  high  winds, 
vessels  can  often  come  within  tL  j  protection  of  Long  Point  on 
one  side,  and  the  protecting  shores  west,  between  it  and  Big 
Sodus,  and  ride  out  the  storm  in  the  indented  shore  of  the  lake, 
and  can,  when  the  improvements  to  Little  Sodus  harbor  are 


gh  water  for  a 
kiid  interesting 
lis  stream  now 
/  Canal  J  which 
lengtli  through 
I  riyer,  both  in 
be  found  some 
Portage,  Alle- 
5  river,  respec- 
bwo  miles,  each 
iliar  beauties, 
hey  are  almost 
he  stupendous, 
feet  in  height, 
with  almost  as 
''  IS  great  depth 
1  turns  as  short 
leadow." 
er  passes  Pult- 
Bay  and  Little 
shore;  the  lake 

3r,  affording  a 
to  three  miles 
;ood,  as  well  as 
I. 

;he  entrance  of 
od  harbor,  and 
iteam  saw-mill, 

>dus,  is  another 
in  high  winds, 
Long  Point  on 
een  it  and  Big 
ore  of  the  lake, 
iu8  harbor  are 


Ml 


1\ 


.=* 


'  i'. 


13iiOCK'8  MoMUMSNi- — Queenston  Heights. 


'\S 


BUFTALO   TO   NIAGARA    FALLS,    ITO. 


205 


Tioinity.    A  maasiTe  stone  mtd\,  80  feet  square,  adorned  iHth 
military  figures  and  trophies  at  the  comers,  27  feet  in  height, 
surrounds  the  monument,  learing  space  for  a  grabs-plot  and 
walk  on  the  inside  of  the  inclosui*e. 
The  following  is  the  inscription : 

Upper  Canada  has  dedto<ted  this  Monument 

to  the  memory  of  the  late 

Major-Oeneral  Sir  Isaac  Brock,  K.B., 

Provisional  Lleut-Qovernor  and  CommandfT  ofthe  Forces  In  this  Province, . 

whose  remains  are  deposited  in  the  vault  beneath. 

Opposing  the  invading  enemy  he  fell  In  action,  near  the  Heights, 

on  the  18th  October,  181'^,  in  the  48d  year  of  his  age. 

Severed  and  lamented  by  the  people  whom  he  governed,  and  deplored  by 

the  sovereign  to  whose  serrioe  his  life  had  been  devoted. 

The  last  words  of  Major  General  Brock,  when  ho  fell  mortally 
wounded  by  a  musket-shot  through  the  left  breast,  were,  **  Never - 
mind,  my  boys,  the  death  of  one  man — I  have  not  long  to  live  " 
Thus  departed  one  of  the  many  noble  spirits  that  were  sacrificed! 
on  this  frontier  during  the  war  of  1812. 

The  village  of  Niagara  is  advantageously  situated  on  the 
Canada  side,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  into  Lake  OntariO) 
directly  opposite  Fort  J^Tiasfaray  on  the  American  side.    It  con»> 
tains  about  3,000  inhabitants;  a  court-house  and  jail;  one* 
Episcopal,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Methodist,  and  one  Romani 
Catholic  church ;  ten  hotels  and  taverns,  and  twenty  stores  of 
different  kinds;  also,  an  extensive  locomotive  and  car  factory: 
This  is  the  most  noted  place  in  Canada  West  for  building  steams- 
boats  and  other  craft  navigating  Lake  Ontario.     Here  is  a  dock- 
yard with  a  marine  railway  and  foundry  attached,  capable  of 
making  machinery  of  the  largest  description,  and  giving  emplby- 
ment  to  a  great  number  of  men.     It  is  owned  by  the  **  Niagarat 
Dock  Company.*    Steamers  leave  daily  for  Toronto,  etc. 

Fort  George,  situated  a  short  distance  south  or  up-streamk 
from  the  mouth  ot  the  river,  is  now  in  ruins.  This  was  the 
scene  of  a  severe  contest  in  1813,  in  which  the  Americaas  were - 
▼ictorious.  A  new  fort  has  been  erected  on  the  point  of  land  at . 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  directly  opposite  old  Fort  JVingara  on» 
the  American  side.    The  new  fortification  is  called  Fort  Maaaa- 

I  The  whole  frontier  on  the  Canada  side,  from  Fort  George  to 
Fort  Erie,  opposite  Buffalo,  was  occupied  by  the  American  army 
in  1814,  when  occurred  a  succession  of  battles  of  the  noii.  de* 
termined  and  brilliant  character. 

18 


TT 


m 


I': 


Pi  lEU  lb  j|U-4>Vf 


NIAGARA   RIVER, 

ITS  BAPIDB,  FALLS,  ISLANDS,  AND  EOMANTIO  SCENEBT. 


"  MfOettio  stream !  what  river  riralt  thee, 
Thou  child  of  many  lakes,  and  sire  ofone^ 
Lalces  that  claim  kindred  with  the  all-circling  sea- 
Large  at  thy  birth  as  when  thy  race  is  mn  i 
Against  what  great  obstructions  hast  thou  woa 
Thino  august  way— the  rock-formed  mountain-plain 
Has  opened  at  thy  bidding,  and  the  steep 
Bars  not  thy  passage,  for  the  ledge  in  vain 
Stretches  across  the  channel— thou  dost  leap 
Sublimely  down  the  height,  and  urge  again 
Thy  rock-embattled  course  on  to  the  distant  main." 

This  most  remarkable  and  romantic  stream,  the  outlet  of 
Lake  Erie,  through  which  flows  all  the  accumulated  waters  of 
the  Upper  Lakes  of  North  America,  yery  appropriately  forms 
the  boundary  t)etween  two  great  countries,  the  British  proTince 
of  Upper  Canada  on  the  one  side,  and  the  State  of  New  York, 
the  **  Empire  State"  of  the  Union,  on  the  opposite  side.  In  its 
whole  course,  its  peculiar  character  is  quite  in  keeping  with 
the  stupendous  Cataract  from  which  its  principal,  interest  is 
derived. 

The  amount  of  water  passing  through  this  channel  is  im- 
ntense ;  from  a  computation  which  has  been  made  at  the  outlet 
of  Lake  Erie,  the  quantity  thus  discharged  is  about  twenty 
millions  of  cubic  feet,  or  upward  of  600,000  tons  per  minute, 
all  of  which  great  Tolume  of  water,  20  miles  below,  plung\!S 
over  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 

The  Niagara  River  commences  at  Bird  Island,  nearly  opposite 
the  mouth  of  Bu£falo  harbor,  and  passes  by  the  site  of  old  Fort 
Erie  and  Waterloo  on  the  Canada  side.    At  the  latter  place  s  | 
steam  ferry-boat  plies  across  the  river  to  Black  Rock,  now  fonn- 
ing  a  part  of  the  city  of  Buffalo.    It  is  here  proposed  to  cod*  I 


NIAGARA   RTVER. 


207 


10  SCENERY. 


itrnot  a  railroad  bridge  across  the  stream,  about  1,800  feet  in 
width. 

Squaw  Iblaicd  and  Strawberry  Island  are  both  small 
islands  lying  on  the  American  side  of  the  stream,  near  the  head 
of  Grand  Inland  The  riyer  is  here  used  in  part  for  the  Erie 
Canal,  a  pier  extending  from  Squaw  Island  to  Bird  Island, 
forming  a  large  basin  called  Black  Rock  Harbor. 

Ok  AND  Imland,  attached  to  Erie  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  a  large  and 
important  body  of  land,  about  ten  miles  long  from  nortii  to 
south,  and  seven  miles  wide.  This  island  is  partly  cleared  and 
caltivated,  while  the  larger  portion  is  covered  with  a  large 
growth  of  oaks  and  other  forest  trees. 

The  ship  or  steamboat  channel  runs  along  the  bank  of 
Grand  Island  to  nearly  opposite  Chippewa,  where  the  whole 
stream  unites  betore  plunging  over  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  being 
again  separated  at  the  head  of  Goat  Island.  From  this  point 
the  awe-struck  traveler  can  scan  the  quiet  waters  above,  and 
the  raging  rapids  below,  preparing  to  plunge  over  the  cataract. 

Cayuga  Island  and  Buckhorn  Island  are  small  bodies 
of  land  belonging  to  the  United  States,  situated  immediately 
below  Grand  Island. 

Navy  Island,  lying  opposite  the  village  of  Chippewa,  18 
miles  below  the  head  of  the  river,  is  a  celebrated  island  belong- 
ing to  the  Canadians,  having  been  taken  possession  of  by  the 
sympathizing  patriots  in  1837,  when  a  partial  rebellion  occurred 
in  Upper  and  Lower  Canada. 

Tonawanda,  11  miles  below  Buffalo,  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Tonawanda  Creek,  opposite  Grand  Island.  The  Erie  Canal 
here  enters  the  creek,  which  it  follows  for  several  miles  on  its 
cowrso  toward  Lockport.  A  railroad  also  runs  to  Lockport, 
connecting  with  the  JVew  York  Central  Railroad,  extending 
to  Albany.  A  ship  canal  is  proposed  to  be  constructed  from 
Tonawanda  to  some  eligible  point  on  Lake  Ontario,  thus  form- 
hig  a  rival  to  the  Welland  Canal  of  Canada. 
•  Schlosser's  L ANDiiro ,  two  miles  above  Niagara  Falls  village: 
is  a  noted  steamboat  landing,  opposite  Chippewa,  from  whence 


4     •*- 


>:, 


•^'•" 


i'ir."'^ 


..I,i 


i!|ll 


i-i!!i 


208 


NIAGARA   RIVER. 
% 


the  steamer  Caroline  was  cut  adrift  by  the  British  and  de- 
stroye-l,  by  being  precipitated  over  the  Falls  during  the  Ca- 
nadian rebellion,  December  29th,  1837. 

The  Rapids. — Below  Navy  Island,  between  Chippewa  and 
Schlosser,  the  river  is  nearly  three  miles  in  width,  but  soon 
narrows  to  oiie  mile,  when  the  Rapids  commence,  and  continue 
for  about  one  mile  before  reaching  the  edge  of  the  precipice  at 
the  Ilorse-Shoe  Fall. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  Rapids  "  the  bed  of  the  river 
declines,  the  channel  contracts,  numerous  large  rocks  heave  up 
the  rolling  surges,  and  dispute  the  passage  of  the  now  raging 
and  foaming  floods.  The  mighty  torrent  leaping  down  succes- 
sive ledges,  dashing  over  opposing  elevations,  hurled  back  by 
ridges,  and  repelled  from  shores  and  islands — plunging,  boiling, 
roaring — seems  a  mad  wilderness  of  waters  striving  against  its 
better  fate,  and  hurried  on  to  destruction  by  its  own  blind  and 
reckless  impetuosity.  Were  there  no  cataract,  these  Rapids 
would  yet  make  Niagara  the  wonder  of  the  world." 

Iris,  or  Goat  Island,  commences  near  the  head  of  the 
Rapids,  and  extends  to  the  precipice,  of  which  it  forms  a  part, 
separating  the  American  Fall  from  the  Canadian  or  Horse-Shoe 
Fall.  It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  eighty  rods  wide,  and 
contains  over  sixty  acres  of  arable  land,  being  for  the  most  part 
covei  ed  with  a  heavy  growth  of  forest  trees  of  a  variety  of 
species,  and  native  pljmts  and  flowers.  A  portion  of  the  island, 
however,  has  been  cleared  off,  and  a  garden  ipclosed,  in  which 
are  some  excellent  fruit  trees,  and  a  variety  of  native  and 
foreign  plants  and  flowers,  and  a  fish-pond.  The  island  is  re- 
markably cool,  shady,  and  pleasant,  and  is  an  object  of  unceas- 
ing admiration  from  year  to  year.  Comfortable  seats  and 
arbors  are  placed  at  the  most  interesting  points,  where  tbe 
visitor  can  sit  at  ease  and  enjoy  the  beautiful  and  sublime 
riews  presented  to  his  sight— often  entranced  by  a  deafening 
roar  of  mighty  waters  in  their  descent,  often  accompanied  by 
changing  rainbows  gf  the  most  gorgeous  desoription. 


NIAGARA   RIVER. 


209 


NIAGARA. 

WRITTEN    BY   LTDIA   H.    SIGOURIfEY. 

Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty ;  God  hath  set 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantles  around  thy  feet,  and  He  doth  give 
Thy  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
Eternally ;  bidding  the  lip  of  man  * 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar 
Four  incense  of  awe>struck  praise. 

Goat  Island  Bridge. — The  Niagara  Falls   Gazette  gives 
the  following  description  of  this  new  structure : 


(( 


This  bridge  across  the  east  branch  of  the  Niagara  River  is 
situated  in  the  Rapids,  about  sixty  rods  above  the  Cataract,  on 
the  site  of  the  old  wooden  bridge.  It  is  360  feet  long,  and  cour 
gists  of  four  arches  of  ninety  feet  span  each,  supported  between 
the  abutments  of  three  piers.  The  piers  above  water  are  built 
of  heavy  out  stone,  and  are  twenty -two  feet  long  and  six  feet 
wide,  tapering  one  foot  in  the  height.  The  foundations  are 
formed  of  foot-square  oak  timber,  strongly  framed  and  bolted 
together  in  cribs,  filled  with  stone,  and  covered  with  timber  at 
the  surface  of  the  water.  These  timber-foundations  are  pro- 
tected against  wear  and  injury  from  ice  by  heavy  plates  of  iron, 
an<^  being  always  covered  with  witter,  will  be  as  durable  as  the 
stone. 

"The  superstructure  is  of  iron,  on  the  plan  of  Whipple's 
iron-archod  bridge.  The  whole  width  is  twenty-sevtn  feet, 
affording  a  double  carriage-way  of  sixteen  and  a  half  feet,  and 
two  foot-ways  of  five  and  a  foui  ♦h  feet  each,  with  iron  railings. 
The  arches  are  of  cast  iron,  and  the  chords,  suspenders,  and' 
braces  of  wrought  iron.  All  the  materials  used  in  the  construc- 
tion are  of  the  best  quality,  and  the  size  and  strength  of  all  the 
parts  far  beyond  what  are  deemed  necessary  in  bridges  exposed 
to  the  severest  tests. 

•'  This  substantial  and  beautiful  structure,  spanning  a  branch- 
of  this  majestic  river  in  ihe  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  overlook- 
ing the  cataract,  is  worthy  of  the  site  it  occupies,  and  affords 
another  instance  of  the  triumph  of  human  ingenuity  over  the 
obstacles  of  nature. 

"The  islands  connected  by  this  bridge  with  the  American 
shore  are  the  property  of  Messrs.  Porter,  and  constitute  the- 
most  interesting  features  in  the  scenery  surroundins  the  cata- 
ract.   This  briage  has  been  erected  by  them  to  facilitate  com- 

18* 


-iil 


"t.^Ll- 


210 


KIAOARA    KIVER. 


11 


11 


li! 


!"pl 


'i    ^, 


m 
'"li 


|ii 

ijl 


munication  with  these  interesting  localities  not  otherwise  ac- 
cessible." 

This  is  a  toll-bridge,  every  foot  passenger  being  charged  25 
cents  for  the  season,  or  single  crossing. 

There  are  upward  of  thirty  islands  and  islets  in  the  Niagara 
River  or  Strait,  above  the  cataract.  Most  of  those  not  described 
are  small,  and  scarcely  worthy  of  enumeration,  although  those 
immediately  contiguous  to  Goat  Island  form  beautiful  objects  in 
connection  with  the  rushing  and  mighty  waters  by  which  they 
are  surrounded.  Bath  Island,  Brig  Island,  Chapin's  Island, 
and  Bird  Island,  all  situated  immediately  above  the  American 
Fall,  are  reached  by  bridges. 

When  on  Goat  Island,  turning  to  the  right  toward  the  Falls, 
the  first  object  of  interest  is  Hogg's  Back,  a  point  of  land  fac- 
ing the  American  Fall,~ Bridge  to  Adington  Island  immediately 
above  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  160  feet  below.  Sam.  Patch's 
Point  is  next  passed  on  the  right,  from  which  he  took  a  fearful 
leap  some  years  since.  Biddle's  Stairs  descend  to  the  water's 
edge  below  and  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  which  are  annually 
visited  by  thousands  of  visitors.  Terrapin  Bridge  and  Terrapin 
Tower  afford  a  grand  view  of  the  Canadian  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall 
and  Rapids  above  the  Falls.  Three  Sister  Islands  are  contiguous 
to  Goat  Island,  on  the  American  side.  Passing  around  Goat 
Island  toward  the  south,  a  grand  view  is  afforded  of  the  river 
and  rapids  above  the  Canadian  and  American  Falls. 


CATARACT  OP  NIAGARA. 

"  Shrine  of  Omnipotence !  how  vast,  how  graud. 
How  awfiil,  yet  how  beautiAiI  thou  art  I 
PillarM  around  thy  everlusting  hills, 
Robed  in  the  drapery  of  descending  floods. 
Crowned  by  the  rainl>ow,  canopied  by  clouds 
That  roll  in  incense  up  from  thy  dread  base, 
Hid  by  their  mantling  o'er  the  vast  abyss 
Upon  whose  verge  thou  standest,  whence  ascends 
The  mitf  hty  anthem  of  thy  Maker's  praise, 
Hymii'd  in  eternal  thunders  i^ 


■  I:  ■•  ■  •  ■:'l<r:^:^  "' ••■"^fT'  " " " ':-'%Si^-^:'!^'h)iiS^^^^fj^Mjli*t7V  1 


ot  otherwise  ac- 

►eing  charged  25 

rS  in  the  Niagara 
lose  not  described 
!»  although  those 
autiful  objects  in 
rs  by  which  they 
ChapirCs  Island^ 
[>ye  the  American 

toward  the  Falls, 
point  of  land  fac- 
iland  immediately 
w.  Sam.  Patch's 
he  took  a  fearful 
ind  to  the  water's 
ich  are  annually 
dge  and  Terrapin 
Horse-Shoe  Fall 
ds  are  contiguous 
Lng  around  Goat 
rded  of  the  rivep 
FaUs. 


raud, 


uds 
•e, 

iscends 


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THE    \ilK:i:C\N    FALLS   UY    MOOM.UJHT. 


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TlIK   AMKIIICAN    FALLS   IJV    MOOM.KaiT. 


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water 

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the  vi< 

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priate, 

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fall,  G 

the  pi 

project 

Americ 

Island, 

extendi 

has  bee 

and  an( 

erected 

Goat  Is 

stand  0 

fine  vie^ 

Americi 

Goat  Is 

Canadia 

rods.    [ 

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Island,  < 


Cataract  of  niaoara. 


211 


^AG  ARA  is  a  word  of  Indian  origin — the 

orthography,  accentuation  and  meaning 

of  which  arc  variously  given  by  different 

authors     It  is  highly  probable  that  this 

diversity  might  be  accounted  for  and 

explained    by  tracing  the  appellation 

through  the  dialects  of  the  several  tribes 

of  aborigines  who  formerly  inhabited  the 

*  ^hboring  country.    There  is  reason 

to  beheve,  however,  that  the  etymon  belongs  to  the  language  of 

the  Iroquois,  and  signifies  the  **  Thunder  of  Waters.** 

"  When  the  traveler  first  arrives  at  the  cataract,  he  stands 
and  gazes,  and  is  lost  in  admiration.    The  mighty  volume  of 
water  which  forms  the  outlet  of  the  great  Lakes  Superior, 
Michigan,  Huron,  and  Erie,  is  here  precipitated  over  a  preci- 
pice 160  feet  high,  with  a  roar  like  that  of  thunder,  which  may 
be  heard,  in  favorable  circumstances,  to  the  distance  of  fifteen 
miles,  though,  at  times,  the  Falls  may  be  nearly  approached 
without  perceiving  much  to  indicate  a  tremendous  cataract  in 
the  vicinity.    In  consequence  of  a  bend  in  the  river,  the  princi- 
pal weight  of  water  is  thrown  on  the  Canadian  side,  down  what 
is  called  the  Horse- Shoe  Fall,  which  name  has  become  inappro- 
priate, as  the  edges  of  the  precipice  have  ceased  to  be  a  curve, 
and  forms  a  moderately  acute  angle.     Near  the  middle  of  the 
fall,  Goat  Island,  containing  75  acres,  extends  to  the  brow  of 
the  precipice,  dividing  the  river  into  two  parts ;  and  a  small 
projecting  mass  of  rock  at  a  little  distance  from  it,  toward  the 
American  shore,  again  divides  the  cataract  on  that  side.     Goat 
Island,  at  the  lower  end,  presents  a  perpendicular  mass  of  rocks, 
extending  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  precipice,     A  bridge 
has  been  constmcted  from  the  American  shore  to  Bath  Island, 
and  another  connects  the  latter  with  Goat  Island,  and  a  tower  is 
erected  on  the  brow  of  the  Horse- Shoe  Fall,  approached  from 
Goat  Island  by  a  short  bridge,  on  which  the  spectator  seems  to 
stand  over  the  edge  of  the  mighty  cataract,  and  which  aifords  a 
fine  view  of  this  part  of  it.    The  distance  at  the  fall  from  the 
American  shore  to  Goat  Island  is  65  rods ;  across  the  front  of 
Ooat  Island  is  78  rods ;  around  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  on  the 
Canadian  slile,  144  rods ;  directly  across  the  Horse-Shoe,  74 
i  rods.    The  height  of  the  fall  near  the  American  shore  is  163 
I  feet;  near  Goat  Island,  on  the  same  side,  158  feet;  near  Goar^ 
Island,  on  the  Canada  side,  154  feet.    Table  Rock,  a  shelving 


212 


CATARACT    OF    NIAGARA. 


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l'i":i 


pi'0J3C  /ion  on  the  Canadian  side,  at  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  is 
150  feot  high.  This  place  is  generally  thought  to  present  the 
finest  view  of  the  Falls ;  though  if  the  spectator  will  visit  the 
tower  on  the  opposite  side  on  Goat  Island,  at  sunrise,  when  the 
wholo  cavity  is  enlightened  hy  the  sun,  and  the  gorgeous  bow 
trembles  in  the  risinj^  spray,  he  can  not  elsewhere,  the  world 
over,  enjoy  such  an  incomparable  scene.  A  covered  stairway 
on  the  American  side  descends  from  the  top  to  the  bottom  of  the 
precipice. 

*'  It  las  been  computed  that  100  million  tons  of  water  are  dis- 
charged over  the  precipice  every  hour.  The  Rapids  commence 
about  a  mile  above  the  Falls,  and  the  water  descends  67  feet  be- 
fore it  arrives  at  the  cataract.  The  view  from  the  bridge  to 
Goat  Island,  of  the  troubled  water  dashing  tumultuously  over 
the  rocks  of  the  American  fall,  is  terrific.  While  curiosity  con- 
stitutes an  attribute  of  the  human  character,  these  falls  will  bu 
frequented  by  admiring  and  delighted  visitors  as  one  of  the 
grandest  exhibitions  in  nature. 

**  This  stupendous  cataract,  situated  in  N.  lat.  43°  6,'  and  W. 
long.  2°  G'  from  Washington,  is  twenty-two  miles  north  from  the 
efflux  of  the  river  at  Lake  Erie,  and  fourteen  miles  so''th  of  its 
outlet  into  Lake  Ontario.  The  whole  length  of  the  river  is 
therefore  thirty-six  miles,  its  general  course  is  a  few  points  to 
the  west  of  north.  Though  commonly  called  a  river,  this  por- 
tion of  the  St.  Lawrence  is,  more  properly  speaking,  a  slrait, 
connecting,  as  above  mentioned,  the  Lakes  £rie  and  Ontario,  and 
conducting  the  superfluous  waters  of  the  great  seas  and  streams 
above  though  a  broad  and  divided,  and  afterward  compressed, 
devious,  and  irregular  channel  to  the  latter  lake,  into  which  it 
empties — the  point  of  union  being  about  forty  miles  from  the 
western  extremity  of  Lake  Ontario. 

*'  The  climate  of  the  Niagara  is  in  the  highest  degree  health- 
ful and  invigorating.  The  atmosphere,  constantly  acted  upon 
by  the  rushing  water,  the  noise  and  the  spray,  is  kept  pure,  re- 
freshing, and  salutary.  There  are  no  stagnant  pools  or  marshes  | 
near  to  send  abroad  their  foetid  exhalations  and  noxious  mias- 
mas, poisoning  the  air  and  producing  disease. 

*'  Sweet-breathing  herbs  and  beautiful  wild  flowers  spring  I 
up  spontaneously  even  on  the  sides,  and  in  the  crevices  of  the  [ 
piant  rocks ;  and  luxuriant  clusters  of  firs  and  other  stately 
lorest  trees  cover  the  islands,  crown  the  cliffs,  and  overhftDgl 
the  banks  of  Niagara.  Here  are  no  mosquitoes  to  annoy,  no[ 
reptiles  to  alarm,  and  no  wild  animals  to  intimidate,  yet  therel 
is  life  and  vivacity.  The  many-hued  butterfly  sips  ambrosi»| 
from  the  fresh  opened  honey-cup— birds  carol  their  lays  of  loti 
among  the  spray- starred  branches ;  and  the  lively  squirr 
skips  chattering  from  tree  to  tree.    Varieties  of  water-fowli  i 


OARARACT   OF   NIAGARA. 


213 


he  precipice,  is 
to  present  the 
T  viU  visit  the 
[irise,  vrhen  the 
0  gorgeous  how 
here,  the  world 
3verod  stairway 
tie  bottom  of  the 

)f  Tvater  are  dis- 
,apid8  commenco 
Kjends  67  feet  be- 
om  the  bridge  to 
imultuously  over 
»Uo  curiosity  con- 
these  falls  will  ba 
3rs  as  one  of  the 

at.  4S°  6,' and  AV 
les  north  from  the 
,  miles  sovth  of  its 
rth  of  the  river  18 
J  is  a  few  points  to 
4  a  river,  this  por- 
speaking,  a  ffraiU 
ie  and  Ontario,  and 
tt  seas  and  streams 
jrward  compressed' 
lake,  into  which  1 

»rty  miles  from  the 

Ibest  degree  health- 
istantly  acted  upon 
ty,  is  kept  pure,  re. 

mt  pools  or  marshes 
and  noxious  mias-  ] 

E,ild  flowers  spring 
1  the  crevices  of  tb 
[s  and  other  stately 
cliffs,  and  overhaBg 
Utoes  to  a^;>y' n 
Ltimidate,  yet  thew 
[terfly  sips  ambrM 
Irol  their  lays  of  lo^ 
1  the  lively  squiTT 
ties  of  water-fowl, 


certain  seasons  of  the  year,  sport  among  the  rapids,  the  sea-cull 

filays  around  the  precipice,  and  the  eagle -the  banner  bird  of 
reedom — hovers  above  the  cataract,  plumes  his  gray  pinions  in 
its  curling  mists,  and  makes  his  home  among  the  giant  firs  of 
its  inaccessible  islands. 

"  No  place  on  the  civilized  earth  offers  l5uch  attractions  and 
inducements  to  visitors  as  Niagara,  and  they  can  never  be  fully 
known  except  to  those  who  se  >  nnd  study  them,  from  the  utter 
impossibility  of  describing  such  a  scene  as  this  wonderful 
cataract  presents.  When  motion  can  be  expressed  by  t  jlor,  there 
will  be  some  hope  of  imparting  a  faint  idea  of  it ;  but  until  that 
can  be  donCj  Niagara  must  remain  undescribed." 

Below  the  Falls,  the  first  objects  of  interest  a'*e  the  Ferry 
Stairs  and  Point  View  on  the  American  side ;  while  on  the  opposite 
side  is  a  lorry  and  steamboat  landing,  where  carriages  are 
usually  to  be  found  to  convey  passengers  to  the  Clifton  House, 
Table  Rock,  and  other  places. 

About  30  rods  below  the  ferry  stairs  is  the  spot  where  the 
hermit  Abbot  was  droNfned.  Half  a  mile  below  the  latter  point 
is  Catlin's  Cave,  formerly  much  frequented. 

The  steamboat  landing  for  the  Maid  of  the  Mist  is  situated 
on  the  American  shore  two  miles  below  the  Falls  and  about  half 
mile  above  the  Suspension  Bridge.    This  steamer,  the  second 
t  of  the  same  name,  first  commenced  running  as  an  experi- 
ent  boat  in  1848 ;  since  then  she  has  run  annually  without 
n  accident  of  any  kind.    The  first  trip  was  made  on  September 
8th,  1846,  by  Capt.  H.  Filkins,  who  with  his  small  crew  were 
he  only  persons  on  bciird,  except  an  intrepid  Canadian  who  was 
esirous  of  crossing  the  river  with  a  horse,  they  both  being 
fely  landed  on  the  Canadian  shore. 

The  SuspENsioic  Bridge,  the  greatest  artificial  curiosity  in 

erica,  is  situated  two  miles  and  a  half  below  the  Falls,  where 

as  recently  sprung  into  existence  JViagara  City^  or  better 

own  as  the  Suspensio?i  Bridge,  on  the  American  side^  and 

W-^n  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  rivor,  here  being  about  800 

in  width,  with  perpendicular  banks  of  825  feet. 
The  Whirlpool  and  Rapids,  one  mile  below  the  Bridge,  are 
ific  sights  of  great  interest,  and  well  worthy  a  visit. 


V, 

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214 


CATARACT   OF   KIAQARA. 


The  Devir»  Hole,  one  mile  farther  down,  is  also  a  point  of 
great  attraction,  together  with  the  Bloody  Run,  a  small  stream 
where  a  detachment  of  English  soldiers  were  precipitated  in 
their  flight  from  an  attaclc  by  Indians  during  the  old  Frencli 
war  in  1769.  An  amphitheater  of  high  ground  spreads  around 
and  perfectly  incloses  the  valley  of  the  Deyil's  Hole,  with  tie 
exception  of  a  narrow  ravine  formed  by  Bloody  Run— from 
which,  against  a  large  force,  there  is  no  escape,  except  over 
th*^  precipice.  The  Ice  Cave  is  another  object  of  interest  con- 
nected with  the  Devil's  Hole. 

The  Rapids  beloiif  the  Whirlpool  are  the  next  object  of  attrac- 
tion ;  then  Queenston  Heights  and  Brook's  Monument  on  the  Ca* 
nadian  side,  and  the  Suspension  Bridge  at  Lewiston ;  altogether 
forming  objects  of  interest  sufficient  to  fill  a  well-sized  volume. 

The  Niagara  River  is  navigable  from  Lewiston  to  its  mouth  at 
Fort  Niagara,  a  farther  distance  of  seven  miles,  or  fourteen 
below  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 


NEW  STEAMER  MAID  OP  THE  MIST. 

This  steamboat  will  in  future  stop  at  both  the  Ferry  landings, 
on  the  American  and  Canadian  shores.  She  is  of  170  tons  bur- 
den, propelled  by  a  powerful  engine  of  over  100  horse-power, 
built  expressly  for  this  route,  furnished  with  Francis*  Life-boats, 
and  all  the  modern  improvements.  The  Cabins,  Saloons,  and 
Promenade  Deck  extend  over  the  whole  boat,  so  that  passengers 
will  be  completely  protected  from  the  spray ;  now  making  her 
regular  trips  under  the  pilotage  of  J.  R.  Robinson,  the  cele- 
brated navigator  of  the  Rapids  of  Niagara. 

The  pleasure  trip  up  to  the  Falls  would  seem  to  require  little  j 
to  recommend  it,  as  the  thousands  who  have  repeated  it  in  ihs^ 
old  boat  can  bear  witness  to  its  great  attractions.     The  novelty, 
beauty,  and  grandeur  of  the  scene  can  not  be  over-estimated, 
passing  as  the  boat  does,  for  two  miles  through  the  gorge  of  the 
Niagara,  directly  in  front  of  the  New  Railroad  Suspension  j 
Bridge,  the  American  Fall,  Lunar  Island,  Cave  of  the  Winds,  to 


CATARACT  OF  NIAGARA. 


215 


is  also  a  point  of 
in,  a  small  stream 
re  precipitated  in 
ig  the  old  French 
id  spreads  around 
I's  Hole,  with  the 
Jloody  Run— from 
loape,  except  over 
ct  of  interest  con- 
it  object  of  attrac- 
numenton  tbeCa' 
iwiston;  altogether 
ivell-sized  volume, 
ton  to  its  niiouth  at 
miles,  or  fourteen 


MIST. 

tlie  Ferry  landings, 
is  of  170  tons  hur- 
100  horse-power, 
rancis*  Life-boats, 
bins,  Saloons,  and 
so  that  passengers 
;  now  making  her 
obinson,  the  cele- 

em.  to  require  little 
repeated  it  in  the  j 
ons.    The  noTcIty, 
be  over-estimated, 
'h.  the  gorge  of  the  I 
dlroad  Suspension! 
ve  of  the  Winds,  to 


the  Great  Horse-Shoe  Falls  and  Table  Rock,  all  of  which  are 
presented  at  one  view  to  the  beholder  in  their  most  sublime  and 
imposing  aspect. 

The  boat  will  run  daily  {Surnlays  excepted),  leaving  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  Wharf  morning  and  evening.  The  charge  for  the 
Pleasure  Trip  will  be  ^30  cents. 

j?a9*  Omnibuses  and  Carriages  run  from  c  s '  h  i  depots  and 
hotels  in  connection  with  the  boat. 


Tlie  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  Niagara  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  east  side  of  Niagara  River,  in  the  immediate  vi- 
cinity of  the  grand  Cat5>.ract,  22  miles  from  Buffalo  and  803 
nules  from  Albany  by  railroad  route.  No  place  in  the  Union 
exceeds  this  favored  spot  as  a  fashionable  place  of  resort  dur- 
ing the  summer  and  fall  months,  when  hundreds  of  visitors 
may  be  seen  every  day  flocking  to  Qoat  Island,  or  points  con- 
tiguous '  0  the  Rapids  and  Falls.  The  village  contains  several 
large  h  els  for  the  accommodation  of  visitors,  the  most  noted 
of  which  are  the  Cataract  House  and  the  International  Hotel ; 
the  Monteagle  Hotel,  situated  two  miles  below  the  Falls,  near 
the  Suspension  Bridge,  and  the  Clifton  House,  on  the  Canada 
side,  are  all  alike  popular  and  well-kept  hotels ;  there  are  five 
churches  of  dififerent  denominations ;  15  stores,  in  many  of  which 
are  kept  for  sale  Indian  curiosities  and  fancy  work  of  different 
kinds.  The  water-power  here  afforded  by  the  descending 
stream,  east  of  Goat  Island,  is  illimitable.  A  paper-mill,  a 
flouring-mill,  two  saw-mills,  a  woolen  factory,  a  furnace  and 
machine  shop,  together  with  other  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, here  use  the  water-power  so  bountifully  Rupplied.  The 
population  is  about  8,000. 

The  railroads  centering  at  the  Falls  are  the  Buffalo,  JViagara 
Falls  and  Letviston  Railroad,  the  JVew  York  Central  Rail- 
road, and  the  Canandaigtui  and  JMagara  Falls  Railroad ; 
the  latter  road  connecting  with  the  j^ew  York  and  Eric  Rail- 
road, and  forming  with  other  roads  a  direct  route  to  Phila- 
delphia, Baltimore,  and  AVashington 


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t  hn 


216 


CATARACT    OP    NIAGARA. 


An  omnihtts  line  runs  hourly  from  the  village  of  Niagara 
Falls  to  Niagara  City,  or  Suspension  Bridge,  daring  the  sum- 
mer moiths,  and  thence  to  the  Clifton  House  and  Table  Bock 
on  the  Canada  side,  affording  a  cheap  mode  of  visiting  both 
sides  of  Niagara  River. 

Ni/.iiARA  City,  situated  two  miles  below  the  Falls,  at  the 
Suspension  Bridge^  is  a  new  f»nd  flourishing  place.  Here  is  lo- 
cp.ted  the  Monteagle  Hotel,  and  other  public  houses,  together 
with  several  stores  and  manufacturing  establishments. 


DIMENSIONS  OF  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE. 

Lengi  H  of  span  from  center  to  center  of  towers.  822  feet. 

Height  of  railroad  track  above  water 250    " 

Height  of  towers  above  rock  on  American  side. .      88    " 

Height  of  toTvers  above  rock  on  Canada  side 78    '* 

Height  of  towers  above  floor  of  railway 60    " 

Number  of  wire  cables 4 

Diameter  of  each  cable 10  inches 

Number  of  wires  in  each  cable : .  3,659 

Weight  of  superstructure. 750  tons. 

Base  of  towers 16  feet  sq 

Top  of  towers 8     " 

Depth  of  anchor  pits  below  surface  of  rocks 30  feet. 

WEIGHT  OF  THE   MATERIALS    IN    THE    BRIDGE. 

Timber  of  different  kinds. 919,130  lbs. 

Wrought  iron  and  suspenders 113,120    " 

Castings , 44,322    " 

Iron  raib,   66,740    " 

Cable  between  towers 536,400    " 

Total ,1,678,722    " 


The  Gieat  Western  Railway  of  Canada ,  which  unites  with 
the  New  York  Central  Railroad,  terminating  on  the  American 
side  of  the  river,  here  commences  and  extends  westward  through 
Hamilton,  London,  and  Chatham  to  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit, 
Mich.,  forming  one  of  the  great  through  lines  of  travel  from 
Boston  and  New  York  to  Chicago  and  the  Far  West. 

This  road  also  furnishes  a  speedy  route  of  travel  to  Toronto, 
Collingwood,  etc. 


LEWISTON    TO   OSWEOO   AND    OGDENSBUROH.       229 


completed,  enter  the  bay  with  ease,  and  take  refuge  there. 
This  fact  gives  great  advantages  to  Little  Sodus  Bay,  as  it 
makes  it  accessible  at  all  times." 

The  City  of  Oswego,  36  miles  north  of  Syracuse  by  railroad, 
is  advar  (cageonsly  situated  on  both  sides  of  Oswego  Kiver,  at  iit) 
entrance  into  Lako  Ontario.    It  is  a  port  of  entry,  was  char- 
tered in  1848,  being  divided  into  four  wards.    In  1855  it  con- 
tained 16,000  inhabitaAts,  1,500  dwelling-houses,  two  Presby- 
terian, two  Episcopal,  two  Baptist,  two  Methodist,  two  Boman 
Catholic,  one  Universalist,  and  one  African  church,  besides  a 
Bethel  congregation ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  custom-house, . 
four  banking  houses,  two  savings*  banks;  a  gas  company,  a. 
female  seminary,  and  orphan  asylum.    There  are  several  well- 
kept  hotels ;  the  Munger  House  and  the  Hamilton  House  on  the : 
east  side  of  the  river,  and  the  Welland  House  on  the  west  side,, 
are  the  most  frequented  by  pleasure  travelers.    The  Pardee^ 
House  is  a  new  and  commodious  hotel  which  is  nearly  com- 
pleted, situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  near  the  steamboat . 
landing. 

The  Oswego  and  Syracuse  Railroad,  36  miles  in  length,  cone>- 
neots  this  place  with  the  Central  Railroad  of  New  York,  while  - 
another  railroad  is  being  constructed  on  the  east  side  of  the  • 
Oswego  River,  to  run  to  Syracuse  and  connect  witl^  the  Syra-r 
cuse  and  Binghamton  Railroad,  thus  forming  another  direct . 
route  to  the  cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  and  the  coaL. 
region  of  Pennsylvania.     The  Oswego  Canal  also  connects  with 
the  Erie  Canal  at  Syracuse,  altogether  affording  great  facilitieaj 
for  trade  and  commerce,  in  connection  with  the  lake  naviga-  - 
tion  and  water  privilege.     Here  are  now  in  operation  15  flour- - 
ing-mills,  with  84  run  of  stones,  making  8,400  barrels  of  flour  • 
per  day  when  in  full  operation ;  ten  elevators  capable  of  eleva- 
ting 38,000  bushels  of  grain  per  hour,  with  storage  room  fbr 
2,000,000  bushels.    These  huge  edifices  are  so  arranged  a»  to  • 
unload  and  load  vessels  with  great  dispatch. 

The  Oswego  Starch  Factory,  owned  by  an  incorporated 
lH)dy,  was  erected  in  1848,  since  which  large  additions  have  been. 

20 


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230      LEW18T0N   TO    OSWEGO    AND    OGDENSBURGH. 

made.  The  entire  front  of  the  building  is  now  510  feet,  five 
stories  high,  extending  back  over  the  river  260  feet ;  it  is  capa- 
ble of  manufacturing  twelve  millions  pounds  of  com  starch  per 
year,  consuming  some  600,000  bushels  of  com  for  the  purpose, 
and  giving  employment  to  800  persons.  In  addition  to  the 
above  are  two  steam-engine  and  machine  works,  two  iron  and 
brass  foundries,  one  cotton-mill,  besides  several  other  mills  and 
factories. 

The  quantity  of  water  flowing  in  the  Oswego  River  at  ordin- 
ary high  water  is  700,000  cubic  feet  per  m.'nute,  at  low  water 
200,000.  Fall  at  the  two  lower  dams  ir  the  city,  86  feet, 
affording  altogether  an  immense  and  reliable  water-power. 

The  number  of  vessels  which  arrive  and  depart  annually 
from  this  port  is  very  large;  there  being  here  owned  eight 
steamers  and  propellers  and  about  100  schooners,  averaging 
over  100  tons  burden,  besides  a  large  number  of  canal  boats. 
The  harbor  is  capacious  and  safe,  being  well  protected  by  two 
large  stone  piei-s,  constructed  by  the  United  States  government. 
On  the  end  of  the  west  pier  is  situated  a  light-house ;  about 
half  a  mile  above  are  two  bridges  extending  across  the  river, 
600  feet  in  length.  An  extensive  forwarding  business  is  done 
at  this  place  by  means  of  lake,  river,  and  canal  navigation; 
goods  passing  through  from  New  York  to  Oswego,  and  thence 
over  the  GoUingwood  route,  or  through  the  Welland  Canal  to 
the  Upper  Lakes. 

Oswego  now  ranks  as  one  of  the  greatest  grain  markets  in 
the  world,  and  will  no  doubt  continue  to  increase  with  the 
growth  and  production  of  the  Western  States  and  Canada. 
The  lumber  trade  is  also  very  great,  immense  quantities  being 
shipped  from  Canada  to  this  port,  and  re-shipped  to  Eastern 
markets. 

The  impulse  imparted  to  the  commerce  of  Oswego  by  the  late 
Reciprocity  Treaty,  which  went  into  force  October,  1864,  ia 
very  great,  as  wiU  be  seen  by  the  following  returns  made  from 
official  figures ; 


ii;i 


8BURGH. 


LEWISTON    TO    OSWEGO    AND   00DEN8BUR0H.      231 

1S54.  1865. 

Value  of  Foreign  Imports $2,860,918        $6,13P,748 

«  «*       Exporte 8,734,168  M70,920 

Total $6,595,086      $12,010,668 

Here  it  will  be  seen  that  the  trade  with  Canada  nearly 
doubled  in  the  first  year  under  the  operation  of  the  above 
treaty.  The  domestic  or  coastwise  trade  is  also  constantly  and 
rapidly  increasing. 

One  of  the  Steamers  of  the  Ontario  and  St.  Lawrence  Steam- 
boat Company  leaves  Oswego  daily  fbr  Sacket's  Harbor,  Kings- 
ton, C.  W.,  and  Ogdensburgh,  connecting  with  steamers  running 
to  Montreal  and  Rouse's  Point,  via  the  Northern  Railroad  of 
New  York. 

A  steamer  also  leaves  Oswego  daily,  for  Rochester,  Niagara* 
C.  W.,  and  Lewiston,  connecting  with  steamers  for  Toronto,  etc. 

The  Toronto  and  Collingwood  line  of  steamers  runs  daily.  Sun- 
I  days  excepted,  from  Oswego  to  Toronto,  150  miles,  forming  the 
most  direct  route  through  Lake  Ontario  to  the  Upper  Lakes. 


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IBAILROAD   AND   STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FROM  SYRACUSE   TO 
NIAGARA  FALLS,  via  OSWEGO  AND  LEWISTON. 

This  route,  during  the  season  of  navigation  on  Lake  Ontario, 
lis  a  most  interesting  line  of  travel,  affording  the  tourist  a  fine 
opportunity  of  viewing  the  scenery  peculiar  to  Lake  Ontario 
{and  Niagara  River. 

The  Oswego  and  Syracuse  JRailroad,  35  miles  in  length,  runs 
I  along  the  west  side  of  Onondaga  Lake  to  the  Seneca  River,  which 
I  is  passed  near  Baldwinbville,  the  first  stopping-place  after 
ng  Syracuse.  From  thence  the  road  runs  north  on  the 
|wo6t  side  of  Oswego  River,  passing  opposite  to  the  village  of 
IFcjLTON,  11  miles  from  the  city  of  Oswego.  Passenger  cars 
[usually  leave  Syracuse  and  Oswego  three  times  daily. 

American  steamers  leave  Oswego  daily  for  Sacket*s  Harbor, 
|King8ton,  Canada,  Ogdensburgh,  etc.,  in  the  morning,  on  the 

liTal  of  the  cars  from  Syracuse ;  while  in  the  afternoon  a 


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232       LSWI8T0N    TO    OSWEGO    AND    OGPENSBURGIf. 

steamer  leaves  for  Rochester,  Lewiston,  etc.,  running  up  the 
lake.  Paraengers  passing  through  Oswego  are  afforded  a  hastj 
glance  of  the  city,  the  harbor,  and  Fort  Ontario,  the  latter 
being  located  on  the  east  shore  of  the  river  at  its  entrance  into 
Lake  Ontario. 


DISTANCES  AND  FARE  BETWEEN  SYRACUSE  AND  NIAGAEA 
FALLS,  vi-^  OSWEGO  AND  LEWISTON. 


Stopping  Places.       Miles.  Fare. 

Syracuse 0 

OswKGO 35  $1  00 

Pultneyville 75  — 

Cvi  AnLOTTE,  or  Port 

Genesee 100  — 

Niagara,  C.  W  ...  174  — 

Lewiston 182  — 

Niagara  Falls.  .188  4  00 


Slopping  Places.       Miles.  Fare. 
Niagara  Falls  . .     0 

Lewiston 6  $0  60 

Niagara,  C.W.  ...  14  — 
Charlotte,  or  Port 

Genesee 88  — 

Pult-eyville 113  - 

Oswego 153  -— 

Syracuse 188  4  00 


On  resuming  the  trip  from  Oswego  to  Sacket's  Harbor,  the 
steamer  runs  in  a  northerly  direction  ofif  Mexico  Bay,  being  a 
large  expanse  of  water  at  the  east  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  where 
lies  Port  Ontario,  at  the  mouth  of  Salmon  River.  On  this 
stream  is  situated  one  of  the  most  romantic  falls  in  the  country. 

Salmon  River  rises  in  Lewis  Co.,  and  flows  west  through 
Oswego  Co.  into  Lake  Ontario;  discharging  its  waters  into 
Mexico  Bay,  at  the  village  of  Port  Ontario.  This  is  a  fine  and 
durable  stream,  having  a  tolerably  good  harbor  at  its  mouth, 
and  is  beatable  during  high  water  to  the  Falls  in  Orwell,  a  dis- 
tance of  14  miles.  "  The  Falls  of  Salmon  River  may  be 
classed  among  the  principal  natural  curiosities  of  the  country. 
The  current  is  gentle  above  for  six  or  more  miles,  then  two 
miles  of  rapids,  and  at  the  falls  drops  almost  perpendicular 
107  feet.  At  high  water  the  sheet  is  250  feet  in  width,  but  at 
low  water  it  is  narrowed  down  to  about  half  that  extent.  The 
rocky  strata  seem  to  be  composed  of  slate  stone  and  granite,  or 
gneiss,  and  the  height  of  the  banks  immediately  above  the  fall 
is  variously  estimated  at  from  70  to  90  feet;  below  it  is  said 


7SBURG1I. 


LEWISTON   TO    OSWEOO   AND   00DEN8BUR0H.      233 

that  the  walls,  perpendicular  rock,  are  about  200  feet.  At  the 
foot  of  the  cataract  there  is  very  deep  water,  abounding  in  fine 
fish,  such  as  salmon,  trout,  etc.*'  « 

Great  Stone y  Island  and  other  islands  are  passed  as  the 
steamer  approaches  Black  RiVer  Bay,  which  affords  the  most 
capacious  and  safe  harbor  on  Lake  Ontario.  Here  enters  Black 
River,  an  important  stream,  which  rises  many  miles  to  the  east- 
ward, interlocking  with  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  and  other 
tributaries  of  the  Hudson  River. 

Sacket*s  Harbor,  45  miles  north  of  Oswego,  and  distant 
38  miles  from  Kingston,  Canada,  possesses  one  of  the  best  and 
most  secure  harbors  on  Lake  Ontario,  being  situated  on  Black 
River  Bay,  ten  miles  below  Watertown,  with  which  place  it  is 
soon  to  be  connected  by  a  railroad.  It  was  an  important  naval 
nnd  military  station  during  the  war  of  1812,  with  Great 
Britain ;  it  being  the  rendezvous  of  the  American  fleet  on  Lake 
Ontario.  Here  now  lies  a  large  war  vessel  under  cover,  which 
was  commence  '  at  the  abov>  period.  Madison  BarVacks,  gar- 
risoned  by  United  States  troops,  is  handsomely  situated  near 
the  steamboat  landing,  being  in  full  view  from  the  water. 

This  place  is  an  important  port  of  entry,  and  no  doubt  destined 
to  increase  in  wealth  and  numbers  on  the  opening  of  railroad 
facilities.  The  village  now  contains  four  churches,  two  hotels, 
twenty  stores,  four  storehouses,  a  ship-yard  and  rope-walk,  three 
saw-mills,  two  furnaces,  an  iron  foundry  and  machine-shop. 

The  Sacket^s  Harbor  and  Ellisburgh  Bailroad,  18  miles  in 
length,  connects  with  the  Watertown  and  Rome  Railroad. 

Black  River,  so  called  from  the  color  of  its  water,  is  the 
third  in  magnitude  that  has  its  whole  course  in  the  State  of 
New  York.  Its  whole  course  is  about  120  miles,  and  is 
navigable  from  the  High  Falls  in  Leyden,  where  it  has  a  fall 
of  63  feet,  to  the  Long  Falls  at  Carthage,  a  distance  of  40  miles : 
thence,  by  a  succession  of  rapids  and  falls,  it  continues  a  cir- 
cuitous route,  until  It  empties  into  Black  Biuer  Bay,  near  the 
foot  of  Lake  Ontario.  It  is  b  deep,  sluggish  stream,  but  the 
navigation  is  much  obstructed  by  falls ;  affording,  however,  fine 

20* 


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234      LEWISTON    TO    OSWEOO    AND    OGDENSBUROH. 

water-power.  The  land  on  the  borders  of  the  lower  part  of  the 
river  is  very  fertile  and  thickly  settled ;  Je£ferson  County — and 
the  vicinity  of  Watertown  in  particular,  where  is  a  good  water 
power — is  justly  celebrated  for  its  agricultural  products. 

Chaumont  Bay,  situated  north  of  Backet's  Harbor  at  Black 
River  Bay,  is  a  large  body  of  water  abounding  in  fish  of  several 
kinds  and  fine  flavor ;  here  being  extensive  fisheries,  where  are 
annually  taken  large  quantities  of  fish. 

The  trip  across  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario  from  Sacket's  Harbor 
to  Kingston,  Can. ,  38  miles,  is  a  very  interesting  excursion  during 
pleasant  weather.  Here  may  be  seen  beautiful  headlands  and 
several  picturesque  islands;  the  Fox  and  Grenadier  islands 
are  passed  before  reaching  Grand  or  fVcffe  Island,  attached 
to  Canada.  This  latter  island,  situated  in  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  a  large  and  fertile  body 
of  land,  being  settled  by  Canadians. 

Cape  Vincent,  Jefferson  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  where  terminates  the  Watertown 
and  Borne  Railroad^  and  is  a  port  of  entry.  It  contains  about 
1,100  inhabitants,  four  churches,  five  hotels  and  taverns,  ten 
stores,  and  an  extensive  storehouse  connected  with  the  railroad; 
one  steam  grist-mill,  one  foundry  and  machine-shop,  one  steam 
planing-mill,  and  a  ship-yard.  Steamers  arrive  and  depart 
daily  for  diffierent  ports  on  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  A  steamer  also  leaves  Cape  Vincent  twice  daily  for 
Kingston,  Canada,  during  navigation ;  while  in  winter,  stages 
run  across  the  ice  to  Grand  or  Wolfe  Island,  and  thence  to 
Kingston,  distant  12  miles  by  direct  route.  Cape  Vincent  is 
a  healthy  and  pleasant  location,  being  much  resorted  to  in 
warm  weather  by  fishing  and  pleasure  parties,  being  contigu- 
ous to  the  •*  Thousand  Islands.** 

CiiAYTON,  or  French  Creek,  18  miles  below  Cape  Vincent, 
lies  opposite  Grindstone  Island,  attached  to  the  State  of  New  York. 
The  village  contains  three  churches,  two  public  houses,ten  stores, 
and  a  foundry  and  machine-shop.  Here  is  an  extensive  ship* 
yard  for  the  construction  of  steamers  and  other  lake  craft. 


LEWISTON  TO  OSWEOO  AND  OOOENSBURGH.   235 


The  Black  River  and  Utica  Railroad^  when  completed,  will 
extend  to  Clayton,  a  distance  of  109  miles  from  Utica. 

ALEZAin>RiA  Bat,  12  miles  below  Clayton,  is  favorably 
ritnated  on  the  southeast  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  the  im- 
mediate Ticinity  of  the  greatest  cluster  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 
The  Tillage  contains  one  Presbyterian  church,  two  good  hotels 
for  the  accommodation  of  summer  visitorSj  three  stores,  a  steam 
Baw-mill,  a  ship-yard,  and  about  850  inhabitants.  No  place 
on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  exceeds  this  vicinity  for  its  salubrity 
of  climate  and  picturesque  water  scenery.  The  islands  here, 
almost  innumerable,  are  annually  resorted  to  by  visitors  from 
almost  every  section  of  the  country  for  health,  and  to  enjoy  the 
pleasure  of  fishing  and  hunting. 

Well's  Island  is  settled  by  some  20  or  80  families,  and  is, 
no  doubt,  destined  to  become  a  favorite  resort,  as  a  hotel  is  pro- 
jected, to  be  located  near  the  foot  of  this  lovely  island. 

MoRKisTowx,  N.  Y.,  11  miles  above  Ogdensburgh,  lies 
nearly  opposite  Brockville,  C.  W.,with  which  it  is  connected 
by  a  ferry.  This  is  a  regular  landing-place  for  the  American 
steamers.  The  village  contains  two  churches,  two  taverns, 
three  stores,  and  about  850  inhabitants. 

Ogdensburgh,  St.  Lawrence  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  advantageously 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie  River  whore  it  empties 
into  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  was  first  incorporated  as  a  village  in 
1817,  and  now  contains  about  8,000  inhabitants,  1,000  dwelling- 
bouses  ;  one  each  Episcopal,  Presbyterian,  Baptist,  Methodist, 
wd  Roman  Catholic  church — and  a  Universalist  congregation ; 
an  incorporated  academy,  three  banks,  two  insurance  officer,  a 
custom-house,  six  public  houses,  100  stores  of  different  kinds. 
The  Oswegatchie  River  here  furnishes  an  abundance  of  water- 
power,  where  are  situated  one  woolen  factory,  two  flouring-mills, 
tiiree  grist-mills,  three  saw-mills,  one  paper-mill,  two  planing- 
mills  and  two  furnaces,  a  ship-yard  and  marine  railway.  This 
place  is  situated  near  the  foot  of  sloop  navigation  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  although  steamers  of  a  large  class  run  the  Rapids  t» 
Montreal,  120  miles,  asoeuding  through  the  St.  Lawrence  canals. 


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230      LKWISTOK    TO    OSWEOO    AND   OQDENSBUROH. 

Two  daily  lines  of  steamers  leave  Ogdensburgh  for  Cape  Vincent, 
Kingston,  Oswego  Toronto,  Lewiston,  etc.,  while  two  daily  lines 
leave  Ogdensburgh  or  Prescott  for  Montreal,  etc.  Two  steam 
ferry-boats  run  across  the  St.  Lawrence,  here  one  mile  and  a 
half  wide,  to  Prescott,  forming  a  close  connection  between  the 
two  shores.  The  JVorthern  Railroad  extends  from  Ogdensburgh 
easterly  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.,  118  miles,  connecting  with 
steamers  and  railroads  extending  to  Boston  and  New  York.  A 
railroad  is  also  projected  to  extend  from  Ogdensburgh  and 
form  a  junction  with  the  Potsdam  and  Watertown  Railroad. 
Propellers  and  lake  craft  annually  deposit  an  immense  amount 
of  Western  produce,  to  be  carried  forward  by  railroads  to  East- 
em  markets.  As  a  stopping-place  for  pleasure  travelers,  Og- 
densburgh stands  unrivaled,  having  the  Thousand  Islands  above 
and  the  magnificent  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  below.  Passen- 
gers are  here  usually  transferred  from  the  floating  palaces  of 
Lake  Ontario  to  the  equally  safe  but  smaller  steamers  which  run 
the  Rapids  to  Montreal. 

The  JVorthern  Transportation  Coin,  has  here  lis  principal 
ofBice  for  the  trans-shipment  of  produce  and  merchandise  going 
East  and  West.  This  company  owns  15  propellers,  of  about  350 
tons  burden,  running  from  Ogdensburgh  and  Oswego  to  Cleveland, 
Toledo,  Detroit,  Milwaukee,  Chicago,  etc.  This  line  affords  a 
cheap  and  speedy  route  of  travel  for  travelers  and  emigrants. 

The  Oswegatchie  River ^  which  empties  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
at  Ogdensburgh,  is  the  outlet  of  Black  Lake,  lying  in  the  county 
of  St.  Lawrence.  The  lake  and  river  are  navigable  for  about 
25  miles,  to  within  four  miles  of  Ogdensburgh.  At  the  mouth 
of  this  river,  now  a  part  of  the  village  of  Ogdensburgh,  an  early 
settlement  was  made  by  the  French,  and  fortifications  erected, 
all  of  which  have  gone  to  decay. 

The  Trip  from  Kingston  to  Ogdensburgh  and  Montreal  is  de- 
scribed in  another  part  of  this  work,  following  the  Canadian 
route  from  Hamilton  and  Toronto  to  Kingston,  Prescott,  and 
Montreal.  For  further  information,  see  advertisements  of  Lake 
Ontario  and  River  St.  Lawrence  Steamers. 


TRIP  FROM  NIAGAKA  AND  HAMILTON  TO  TORONTO 
AND  KINGSTON,  CANADA. 


American  and  Canadian  steamers  leave  Lewision,  or 
Niagara,  C.  W.,  daily  for  Toronto,  40  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
Niagara  Riyer,  connecting  with  railroad  cars  from  Buffalo  and 
Niagara  Falls,  running  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

A  Canadian  steamer  also  leaves  Port  Dalhousie  daily  for 
Toronto,  connecting  at  St.  Catherine's  with  cars  on  the  Great 
Western  Railway,  altogether  affording  great  facilities  both  in 
Bommer  and  winter  to  resort  to  the  capital  of  Canada. 

On  leaving  the  mouth  of  Niagara  River,  the  steamer  pursues 
a  N.W.  course  direct  for  Toronto,  having,  on  a  clear  day,  land 
constantly  in  sight  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  Nothing  can 
exceed  the  pleasure  of  this  trip  during  pleasant  weather. 
Usually  may  be  seen  propellers  and  sailing  vessels  on  their  way 
to  or  from  Port  Dalhousie,  the  mouth  of  the  Welland  Canal»  a 
magnificent  work,  of  which  the  Canadians  are  justly  proud. 

Port  Dalhousie,  12  miles  west  of  the  mouth  of  Niagara 
River,  and  distant  88  miles  from  Toronto,  is  a  small  village 
sitaated  at  the  terminus  of  the  Welland  Canal,  four  miles  below 
St.  Catherine's,  with  which  place  it  is  connected  by  the  Port 
Lalhousie  and  Thorold  Railroad,  five  miles  in  length,  connect- 
ing with  the  Great  Western  Railway. 

The  Welland  Canal,  28  miles  in  length,  connecting  Lake 
Erie  with  Lake  Ontario,  and  overcoming  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 
is  a  work  alike  beneficial  to  the  commercial  interests  of  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  the  former  paying  by  far  the  greatest 
amount  of  tolls.  The  number  of  locks  are  27,  being  150  feet  in 
length  and  2^  feet  wide.  The  total  rise  is  830  feet.  The 
depth  of  water  is  8  J  feet,  the  canal  being  45  feet  wide  at  bot- 
tom and  81  feet  at  the  surface.  The  feeder  branch,  from  Junc- 
tion to  Dunnville,  is  21  miles  long.    The  Broad  Creek  branch 


238     NIAGARA   AND   HAMILTON   TO   KINGSTON,    ET«.. 


n^^ 


ti'  M 


from  feeder  to  Port  Maitland,  the  terminus  on  Lake  Erie,  is  IJ 
miles  in  length,  with  one  lock  each.  The  entire  cost  of  the 
enlarged  canal  was  about  £1,000,000  Canadian  ourrencj«  or 
$4,000,000. 

St.  Catherine's,  88  miles  south  of  Toronto  by  water,  11 
miles  from  raapension  Bridge,  and  82  miles  from  Hamilton  by 
railroad  route,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  line  of  the 
Welland  Canal,  here  affording  a  large  amount  of  water-power. 
This  town  is  a  place  of  great  attraction  and  growing  importance, 
being  surrounded  by  a  healthy  and  rich  section  of  country. 
Here  is  a  mineral  fountain  called  the  **  Artesian  Well,"  also 
seyeral  large  and  well-kept  hotels,  for  the  accommodation  of 
inyalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure.  The  Stevenson  House,  near 
the  Spring,  and  the  Welland  Hotel,  are  the  most  frequented  by 
pleasure  travelers. 

The  village  contains  about  5,000  inhabitants,  several  fine 
churches  and  private  edifices,  here  being  exhibited  a  degree  of 
taste  and  activity  equal  to  any  other  town  of  its  size  in  Canada 
or  the  United  States.  If  the  mineral  waters  prove  as  beneficial 
to  invalids  as  is  represented  by  many  who  have  experienced  their 
beneficial  efifects,  it  is  no  doubt  destined  to  become  a  popular 
watering-place  during  the  summer  months.  The  **  Well'*  is 
situated  near  the  bank  of  the  canal,  and  is  550  feet  in  depth; 
the  water  being  raised  by  a  steam  pump  to  the  bath-house, 
situated  on  the  bank  above. 

The  City  of  Hamii^ton,  from  its  geographical  position,  and 
its  peculiar  natural  and  artificial  advantages,  lying  on  Burling- 
ton  Bay,  at  the  extreme  west  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  has  within  the 
last  five  or  six  years  rapidly  increased  in  wealth  and  numbers. 
But  a  few  short  years  have  passed  away  since  the  site  on 
which  now  stands  the  crowded  city,  with  its  stately  edifices  and 
its  elegant  residences,  its  thronged  streets,  and  its  marts  and 
factories  teeming  with  life  and  business  activity,  was  a  dense 
forest,  the  residence  and  hunting-ground  of  the  Indian.  It  was 
not  many  years  ago  that  the  waters  of  its  beautiful  bay,  which 
now  bear  upon  their  bosom  magnificent  steamers  and  vessels  of 


NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO  *KIKG8T0N.    ETC.       230 


every  grade,  bringing  to  our  port  the  treasures  of  other  lands, 
and  conveying  to  Eastern  markets  the  products  of  the  West, 
were  calm  and  unruffled,  saro  when  the  red  man  launched  his 
barque  upon  the  blue  expanse,  or  when  lashed  into  fury  by  the 
angry  tempest. 

Hamilton  was  first  laid  out  in  the  year  1818,  during  the  wai 
with  the  United  States,  but  for  many  years  it  progressed  but 
slowly  in  population  and  importance.  By  the  census  of  1841 
it  numbered  8,446  inhabitants.  During  the  succeeding  four 
years  the  population  nearly  doubled,  and  by  the  census  of  1851 
the  numbers  had  increased  to  10,248.  From  that  period  to  the 
present  the  city  has  progressed  with  almost  unexampled  rapid- 
ity for  Canada.  The  commencement  and  completion  of  the 
Oreat  Western  Railway  gave  an  impetus  to  all  kinds  of  busi- 
ness. New  streets  were  opened,  and  handsome  edifices  sprung 
up  as  if  by  magic  in  all  parts  of  the  city,  as  well  as  the  more 
humble  edifices.  The  population  is  now  (1856)  estimated  hi 
25,000,  the  wealth  having  increased  in  greater  proportion 

By  the  following  amounts  of  assessment  of  real  and  personal 
property  during  the  past  six  years,  it  will  be  seen  the  value 
has  more  than  trebled,  and  since  1852 — three  years— nearly 
doubled : 


Valuation  in  1850. . .  .£61,674 

1851....   9'*,259 

"         1852....  105,849 


Valuation  in  1853. .  .£134,858 

1854...    156,926 

"  1855...    190,479 


The  city  is  governed  by  a  mayor  and  board  of  aldermen  and 
councilors,  together  with  a  police  department.  The  public 
buildings  are  a  city  hall,  city  hospital,  post-office  building, 
twenty  churches  of  different  denominations,  five  banks,  and  a 
mechanics'  institute.  A  new  custom-house  and  market  build- 
ing are  about  being  erected,  both  on  a  large  scale  and  in  a 
durable  style  of  architecture. 

The  principal  hotels  are  the  Anglo-American,  King  Street, 
uid  City  Hotel,  Jamos  Street. 

SteameriEi  of  a  large  class  run  from  Hamilton  to  Toronto, 
Kingston,  and  other  ports  on  both  sides  of  Lake  Ontario,  afford- 


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2i0      NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO   KIlfOSTON,  ETC. 


ing  a  Bpeedy  and  delightful  mode  of  oonTeyance,  not  onlj 
'«;hrough  the  laktMs,  but  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Prescott, 
Ogdensburgh,  and  Montreal.  For  description  of  railroad  roato 
to  Detroit,  see  page  150. 

Wellington  Square,  seven  miles  below  Hamilton,  is  a 
place  of  some  importance,  it  being  the  outport  for  '^amilton 
during  the  winter  months,  when  the  lake  is  obstructf    by  ice. 

Broivte,  13  miles  Inlow  Hamilton,  is  a  small  village  con< 
taining  about  400  inhabitants.  Here  are  two  public  houses,  two 
churches,  a  grist-mill,  a  cloth  factory,  and  several  lumber 
yards. 

Oakville,  [\)  miles  from  Hamilton,  and  about  the  same  die* 
tance  from  Toronto,  is  a  place  of  considerable  business,  having  a 
good  harbor.  It  contains  about  1 ,000  inhabitants ;  four  churches, 
several  public  houses  and  storos ;  a  foundry,  and  other  manu- 
facturing establishments.  The  country  in  fhe  rear  is  healthy 
and  productive,  being  drained  by  several  fine  streams. 

Port  Credit,  12  miles  from  Toronto,  is  a  large  shipping 
port  for  produce  of  different  kinds.  It  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  River  Credit,  here  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario.  It  was  once  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  Indians,  receiving  its  name,  in  early 
times,  from  the  circumstance  of  the  fur  traders  here  meeting 
the  Indians,  and  delivering  to  them  on  credit  their  goods,  for 
which  the  following  year  they  received  their  value  in  furs. 


TORONTO. 

The  City  of  Toronto,  and  capital  of  Canada,  is  favorably 
situated  on  Toronto  Bay,  in  43°  32'  N.  lat.,  and  79°  20'  W 
long,  from  Greenwich.  It  is  40  miles  N.E.  Hamilton,  160  W. 
from  Kingston,  333  from  Montreal,  and  413  from  Quebec  by 
railroad  route.  The  bay  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  4 
miles  long  and  2  miles  wide,  separated  from  the  main  body  of  Lake 
Ontario,  except  at  its  entrance,  by  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  sandy 
beach,  the  southwest  termination  of  which  is  known  as  Gibral* 
tar  Point,  on  c^hich  is  located  a  light-house. 


NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON   TO   KINGSTON,  ETC.       24t 


**  Toronto  signifies,  in  the  Indian  language,  a  place  of  meet' 
ing.  In  1703 ,  when  sunreyed  by  the  elder  Bouohette,  under  the 
order»of  Got.  Simcoe,  two  Massasauga  families  were  the  only 
inhabitants  it  contained,  and  the  harbor  was  a  resort  for  numer- 
ous wild  fowl,  while  its  waters  produced  an  abundance  of  fish." 
It  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1834,  when  it  contained  0,254 
inhabitants.  In  1842  it  had  increased  to  15,436;  in  1852,  to 
30,703  ;  and  in  1866,  to  over  60,000.  It  is  laid  out  with  wide 
streets,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  esplanade 
fronting  the  bay  extends  for  a  distance  of  two  miles.  The  city 
is  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  well  supplied  with  pure  water  by 
oomponies  incorporated  for  those  purposes. 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  Parliament  House,  the 
Uniyersity  of  Toronto,  Trinity  College,  Upper  Canada  College, 
the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Custom  House,  the  Post  Office,  St. 
James'  Church  (the  English  cathedral),  and  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Cathedral;  besides  which  there  are  a  great  number  of 
cbnrches  of  different  denominations.  The  Bank  of  Upper  Canada 
has  its  head  office  here,  and  there  are  other  banks  and  agencies ; 
alao  several  Fire  and  Marine  Insurance  Conipanies.  This  is  the 
prmcipal  office  of  the  Canada  Land  Company,  which  has  nearly 
two  millions  of  acres  of  land  for  sale,  situated  in  various  parts 
of  the  Province.  The  hotels  and  public  houses  are  numerous 
and  well  kept,  making  this  city  a  desirable  sojourn.  Russell's 
Hotel,  the  Clarendon,  the  American,  Sword's  Hotel,  and  a  new 
hotel  on  King  Street,  are  the  principal  public  houses. 

Toronto  has  become  a  great  thoroughfare  by  means  of  steam- 
ers and  railroads.  A  constant  intercourse  is  thus  kept  up  with 
the  different  ports  on  Lake  Ontario,  the  Upper  Lakes,  and  the 
St.  Lawrence  River.  Steamers  run  from  Toronto  to  Hamilton, 
St.  Catherine's,  Niagara,  and  Lewiston  on  the  west  and  south ; 
to  Rochester  and  Oswego  on  the  east ;  and  to  Cape  Vincent, 
Kingston,  Prescott,  Montreal,  etc.,  on  the  northeast. 

The  Ontario f  Simcoe  and  Huron  Railroad ^  04  miles  in  length, 
terminates  at  Collingwood,  on  Georgian  Bay,  connecting  with 
the  waters  of  Lake  Huron.    The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  ex« 

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242      NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,  ETC. 

tends  northeast  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  while  its  western  ter- 
mination will  be  at  Port  Sarnia,  lying  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Hu- 
ron. The  Toronto  and  Hamilton  Railroad,  a  branch  of  the 
Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  also  terminates  here, 
afifording  altogether  facilities  of  great  benefit  to  Toronto  and 
the  vfhole  of  Canada. 

.  The  markets  of  Toronto  are  abundantly  supplied  with  every 
description  of  provisions  of  the  best  quality,  and  at  moderate 
prices.  The  climate  is  healthy  and  delightful  during  the  sum- 
mer and  fall  months,  being  modified  by  lake  breezes. 

"  Trade  of  Toronto. — The  value  of  imports  into  Toronto 
last  year  (1856)  amounted  to  .£1,738,657,  showing  an  increase 
on  those  of  1856  of  £338,247.  £822,836  were  from  Great  Brit- 
ain,  £14,797  from  B.  A.  Colonies,  £365,404  from  the  United 
States,  and  from  other  foreign  countries  £36,119.  The  duties 
collected  on  these  imports  were  £195,159,  showing  an  increase 
of  £42.584.  The  exports  during  1 856  were  £551 ,383  (of  which 
£176,703  was  of  flour,  and  £202,792  of  wheat),  showing  an  in- 
crease of  £147,258 

**  There  were  shipped  during  the  year  1855  to  American  ports 
601,524  bushels  of  wheat,  and  118,807  barrels  of  flour;  during 
1866,  1,132,781  bushels  wheat,  and  97,985  barrels  flour.  To 
Canada  ports  27,230  bushels  wheat,  and  32,370  barrels  flour, 
in  1855 ;  and  92,561  bushels  wheat,  and  73,824  barrels  flour, 
in  i%Q, 

**  The  increase  in  the  shipments  of  wheat,  it  will  be  seen,  ate 
equal  to  100  per  oent.  over  those  of  last  year,  while  the  increase 
in  flour,  although  not  large,  is  respectable.  Reducing  the  flour 
into  wheat,  at  the  rate  of  five  bushels  per  barrel,  we  have  the 
following  for  the  two  seasons  ; 

Bushels.  Value. 

1866 2,084,007        at    7h.        £729,402 

1866 1,884,639        at  10s.  692.319 

Increase 699,368  £37,083 

**  The  increase  in  value  is  not  so  great  as  the  increase  io 
quantity,  owins  to  the  fact  that  grain  has  sold  at  25  per  cent. 
lower  in  1866  uian  it  did  in  1855. 

**  The  returns  of  the  Custom  House  set  down  the  value  of 
agricultural  produce  sent  to  the  United  Stakes  at  £524,241 
which  is  very  correct;   add,  however,  that  sent  to  Canada 
ports — say  £230,000~-makinff  Uio  total  exports  upward  of 
£750,000."  ^^ 


NIAGARA   AND   HAMILTON   TO   KINGSTON,    ETC.    243 


Port  Whitby,  20  miles  below  Toronto,  lies  on  the  line  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  where  is  a  steamboat  landing,  at  which 
steamers  land  on  their  route  from  Toronto  to  Rochester,  etc. 

OsHAWA,  33  miles  below  Toronto  bj  railroad  route,  is  hand- 
8omely  situated  a  short  distance  from  the  lake  shore  and  has  a 
good  harbor.  It  contains  five  churches,  two  hotels,  15  stores, 
two  woolen  factories,  two  tanneries  and  a  brewery,  besides  other 
manufacturing  establishments.    Population,  2,500. 

BowMANviLLE,  43  miles  from  Toronto,  lying  a  short  distance 
from  the  lake,  is  connected  with  Darlington  Harbor,  where  is  a 
steamboat  landing. 

Port  Hope  is  a  port  of  entry  situated  on  the  north  shore  of 
Lake  Ontario,  62  miles  from  Toronto  and  98  miles  from  King- 
ston by  railroad  route.  This  is  a  safe  harbor,  where  steamers 
land  daily  from  different  ports  on  the  lake,  which  together  with 
sail  Tcssels  export  large  quantities  oi  produce.  The  village  con- 
tains a  court-house,  six  churches,  four  hotels,  40  stores ;  two 
floaring-miUs,  a  woolen  factory,  two  iron  foundries,  a  machine- 
shop,  two  tanneries,  two  breweries,  and  six  distilleries.  The 
lumber  trade  carried  on  ac  this  port  is  very  extensive  and 
profitable.  Population,  8,500.  In  addition  to  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  which  runs  through  the  town,  a  railroad  runs  from 
Port  Hope  to  Beaverton,  situated  on  Lake  Simcoe,  a  distance  of 
41  miles,  thus  opening  a  fine  section  of  Canada  to  emigration 
and  trade. 

From  Port  Hope,  or  Cobourg,  going  toward  Elingston  by  rail- 
road route,  there  is  to  be  seen  a  fine  section  of  Canada,  passing 
through  several  flourishing  towns,  and  near  the  Bay  of  Quinte. 
CoBouRO,  handsomely  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  nea^'ly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Genesee  River,  where  the 
lake  attains  its  greatest  width,  is  70  miles  from  Toronto,  90 
miles  from  Kingston,  and  263  miles  from  Montreal  by  railroad 
route.  It  possesses  a  good  harbor  and  is  much  frequented  by 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels,  it  being  one  of  the  regular  landings 
^  the  Royal  Mail  Steamers,  which  pass  and  repass,  daily,  on 
their  way  up  and  down  the  lake. 


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244     NIAGARA   AND    HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,    ETC. 

The  principal  public  buildings  in  Cobonrg  are  the  conrt-honae 
and  jail,  and  the  Victoria  College,  which  was  established  in 
1842,  by  Act  of  the  Provincial  Legislature,  with  power  to  grant 
degrees  in  the  arts  and  sciences ;  there  are  also  a  number  of 
fine  church  edifices.  Here  are  the  most  extensiye  cloth  manufac- 
tories in  the  Proyince ;  there  are  also  iron,  marble,  and  leather 
manufactories,  with  breweries  and  distilleries,  six  hotels  and 
taverns,  40  or  50  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  a  number  of 
mechanic  shops.  )pnlation,  6,000.  Few  places  in  Canada 
present  a  more  beautiful  appearance  from  the  water  than 
Cobourg— the  landscape  being  extensive  and  varied  by  a  most 
delightful  background. 

The  Cohourg  and  Peterboro*  Railroad,  28  miles  in  length, 
commences  at  this  place,  which,  together  with  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  tends  greatly  to  benefit  Cobourg  and  the  towns  lying 
on  the  rear,  in  the  vicinity  of  Bice  Lake, 

CoLBORNE,  14  miles  below  Cobourg,  is  situated  on  the  line  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Here  is  a  good  landing  for  vessels 
and  a  flourishing  settlement. 

On  leaving  Cobov.rg  for  Kingston  on  the  downward  trip,  the 
steamer  usually  runs  out  into  the  broad  waters  of  Lake  Ontario, 
Boon  attaining  their  greatest  width.  Often  during  the  prevalence 
of  storms  or  high  winds,  the  unacclimated  voyager  experiences 
sensations  any  thing  but  agreeable ;  sea-sickness  often  prostra- 
ting alike  the  athletic  male  and  the  delicate  female.  This 
however,  on  board  the  larger  class  steamers  is  no  serious  objec- 
tion to  journeying  across  Lake  Ontario,  it  being  considered  the 
most  safe  navigation  of  any  of  the  great  lakes. 

JVicholas  Point  and  Island  are  passed  abont  40  miles  from 
Cobourg.  Next  comes  Wicked  Point,  and  soon  heaves  in  sight 
Point  Peter  and  Light.  This  light  is  a  conspicuous  object 
for  the  mariner,  who  often,  when  off  Prince  Edward,  the 
mainland,  experiences  the  full  force  of  easterly  and  westerly 
winds. 

Duck  Island,  attached  to  Canada  is  another  noted  object 
for  the  mariner,  either  descending  or  ascending  Lake  Ontario, 


NIAGARA   AND 


HAMILTON    TO    KINGSTON,    ETC.     245 


88  this  is  the  first  important  island  to  be  met  on  descending  from 
the  head  of  the  lake  on  the  Canada  side. 

Outer  Drake  and  Inner  Drake  are  two  small  islands  situated 
inland  toward  Prince  Edward's  Bay. 

Amhebbt  Island,  a  large  and  fcrtUe  body  of  land,  is  next 
passed  on  the  left,  while  Gage  hland  and  Grand  or  Wolfe 
hland  may  be  seen  on  the  right.;  these  latter  islands  being 
dtnated  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  or  mouth  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence Biyer,  where  commences  the  celebrated  "  Thousand 
Islands." 

The  City  of  Kixgbton,  capital  of  Frontenac  Co.,  Canada,  160 
miles  from  Toronto,  and  173  miles  from  Montreal  by  railroad 
route,  is  very  adyantageously  situated  on  a  beautiful  harbor  at 
the  northeast  extremity  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  immediately  aboye 
its  outlet,  "  Cataraqui,"  or  St.  Lawrence  Riyer,  in  N.  lat.  44° 
8',  W.  long.  76®  40'  from  Greenwich.    *'  The  yiew  of  the  city 
and  Burrounding  scenery  in  not  surpassed  by  the  approaches  to 
any  other  city  in  America.     A  few  miles  aboye  Kingston  the 
waters  of  Lake  Ontario  are  diyided  by  the  first  of  the  long 
series  of  islands  so  well  known  to  Tourists  as  the  "  Thousand 
Islands i'  of  which  Simcoe  and  Grand  or  Wolfe  Islands,  opposite 
the  city,  may  be  looked  upon  as  strongholds,  designed  by  nature 
to  withstand  the  encroaches  of  the  wayes  of  Ontario.    On  ap- 
proaching from  the  west,  by  water,  the  first  object  that  attracts 
the  traveler's  attention  is  Fort  Henry j  with  the  nayal  station 
of  Fort  Frederick  at  its  base,  and  its  attendant  battlements, 
fortifications,  towers,  and  redoubts.     Fort  Henry  is  a  fayorite 
resort  for  visitors,  and  its  eleyated  position  affords  the  best  yiew 
that  can  be  had  of  the  city,  lake,  and  surrounding  country  '* 

The  principal  public  buildings  are  the  City  Hall,  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  substantial  edifices  in, Canada,  and  built  of  cut 
limestone  at  a  cost  of  $92,000.  It  contains  all  the  public 
offices  of  the  city,  including  a  spacious  hall,  capable  of  seating 
oyer  1 ,000  persons ;  the  court-house  is  a  large  stone  building, 
which  is  about  being  remoyed,  and  another,  more  in  accordance 
with  the  wants  of  the  citizens,  is  to  be  erected  on  a  ground  more 

26* 


3"!  I 


r     11 


i:<  Uih 


246     NIAGARA    AND    HAMILTON    TO   KINGSTON,    ETC. 

central,  and  its  present  site  occupied  bj  a  cnstom-house  and 
post-office.  Here  is  a  Roman  Catholic  cathedral  and  seyeral 
fine  church  edifices,  in  all  numbering  sixteen.  Qaeen*s  College, 
under  the  direction  of  the  Presbyterians,  has  a  president  and 
four  professors ;  the  College  of  Regiopolis  (Roman  Catholic)  has 
also  a  president  and  four  professors;  the  General  Hospital, 
Hotel  Dieu,  and  a  nunnery  are  also  in  the  city,  while  two  miles 
west  is  situated  the  Provincial  Penitentiary.  It  has  four  bank- 
ing-houses  and  several  insurance  offices;  three  well-kept  hotels, 
and  about  100  store<^  of  different  kinds;  besides  several  breweries, 
distilleries,  tanneries,  foundries,  machine-shops,  and  a  marine 
railway  and  ship-yard  for  the  building  of  lake  craft;  on  JVavy 
Bay,  which  lies  between  Point  Frederick  and  Point  Henry,  is 
the  naval  dock-yard  used  for  government  purposes.  Near  the 
Penitentiary  is  a  mineral  spring  of  some  celebrity,  resembling 
in  its  component  parts  the  Cheltenham  spring  of  England ;  an- 
other spring  exists  which  is  unusually  strong,  resembling  in 
some  respects  the  "  Artesian  Well"  of  St.  Catherine's.  It  has 
been  analyzed  by  Prof.  Williamson,  and  found  to  contain  valu- 
able medical  properties. 

Kingston  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Frontenac,  an  old  French 
post,  this  being  one  of  a  chain  of  posts  extending  from  Quebec 
to  Mackinac.  Here  are  ow^ed  20  steamerd  and  about  40 
schooners,  sailing  to  and  from  the  port,  besides  numerous  other 
Canadian  and  American  steamers  and  sailing  vessels.  It  being 
the  outlet  for  the  productions  of  the  fertile  Bay  of  Quinte,  and 
the  Rideau  Canal,  terminating  at  Kingston,  makes  it  an  im- 
portant and  active  mart  of  commerce. 


1 1  :  Ii, 


STEAMBOAT    ROUTE 


FROM  KINGSTON  TO  BELLEVILLE  AND  POBT  TEENTON, 
PASSING  THEOUGH  THE  BAY  OP  QUINTE. 


Landings. 
ElNGSTOir 

Amherst  Island. 
Bath 


MUes. 

0 

13 

....     5-18 

Fredericksburg 10-28 

Adolphustown 4-32 

Stone  Mills 8-85 

PiCTON 5-40 


Landings.  Miles. 

Port  Trenton 0 

Belletille 12 

North  Port 12-24 

Indian  Woods 8-^32 

PiCTON 15-47 

Stone  Mills 5-62 

Adolphustown 8-55 


Indian  Woods 15-55    Fredericksburg 4-59 

North  Port 8-63    Bath 10-69 

Belleville 12-75    Amherst  Island 5-74 

Port  Trenton 12-87    Kingston 18-87 

Fare  from  Kingston  to  Picton $1  00 

"  "  Belleville 1  50 

Several  steamers  leave  Kingston  daily  for  Picton,  Belleville, 
Port  Trenton,  and  intermediate  ports,  during  the  season  of 
nayigation,  connecting  at  Belleville  and  Port  Trenton  with  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  line  of  stages  running  to  Rice  Lake, 
Peterboro',  eto. 

On  leaving  the  wnarf  at  Kingston  the  steamers  run  in  a 
westerly  direction,  passing  the  Brothers ^  to  Amherst  Island, 
13  miles.  This  is  a  large  a.id  fertile  island,  inhabited  by  an 
intelligent  and  prosperous  class  of  citizens.  Here  commences 
the  Bay  of  Quinte,  a  long,  crooked,  and  picturesque  body  of 
water,  into  which  empties  the  Napanee,  Moira,  and  Trent 
rivers. 

Bath,  18  miles  from  Kingston,  is  situated  on  the  mun  shore, 
opposite  Amherst  Island.  It  contains  about  600  inhabitants, 
with  a  fine  back  country. 


i;M' 


248 


KIKOSTOK   TO   BELLEVILLE,   ETC. 


ill.! 


Fredericksburg,  28  miles  from  Kingston,  is  a  settlement 
on  the  mainland. 

AroLPHUSTOwx,  32  miles  from  Kingston,  is  situated  on  the 
mainland,  opposite  Mahysburg,  located  on  Prince  Edward'j 
Island. 

Stone  Mills,  85  miles  from  Kingston,  is  situated  on  Prince 
Edward's  Island,  near  a  most  remarkable  lake,  elevated  some 
300  feet  above  the  Bay  of  Quinte.  It  is  called  the  Lxike  of  the 
Mountain^  being  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  nearly  as  wide.  It 
has  no  perceptible  inlet,  but  discharges  a  large  volume  of  water, 
which  is  used  in  propelling  several  mills  of  different  kinds. 

PiCTON,  40  miles  from  Kingston,  and  35  miles  from  Belle- 
ville by  water,  is  the  capital  of  Prince  Edward  Co.,  C.  W.,  being 
handsomely  situated.  The  Bay  of  Quinte,  which  here  expands 
to  a  considerable  width,  is  called  Hallowell  Bay.  The  village 
contains  about  2,000  inhabitants ;  a  court-house  and  jail,  one 
Episcopal,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Methodist,  and  one  Roman 
Catholic  church,  two  hotels,  and  several  taverns,  twelve  stores, 
one  steam  flouring-mill,  one  large  tannery,  and  an  extensiye 
carriage  manufactory. 

On  leaving  Picton,  the  steamer  runs  north  to  the  landing 
called  Indian  Woods,  when  a  westerly  course  is  again  pursued 
to  the  head  of  the  bay,  passing  Morris,  or  HalVs  Island,  and 
several  beautiful  headlands.  Here  is  another  expansion  of 
water  called  Hairs  Bay,  on  Capt.  Owen's  (r.  n.)  Chart  of  Lake 
Ontario. 

Belleville,  Hastings  Co.,  C.  W.,  is  advantageously  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Moira,  75  miles  by  steamboat  route, 
and  only  47  miles  by  railroad  from  Kingston.  This  is  a  very 
thriving  town,  now  containing  about  8,000  inhabitants;  the 
county  buildings,  a  town  hall  and  market  building ;  a  Method- 
ist seminary,  erected  in  1855 ;  one  Episcopal,  two  Presbyterian, 
two  Methodist,  and  one  Roman  Catholic  church ;  four  hotels,  and 
a  number  of  taverns;  50  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  most 
kinds  of  mechanic  workshops.  The  Moira  River  affords  a  good 
water-power,  here  being  situated  one  woolen  factory,  three 


"liiiiii'ii 


KINGSTON   TO   BELLEVILLE,    ETC. 


249 


on,  18  a  settlement 


flooring-mills,  foar  saw-mills,  one  paper-mill,  one  axe  factory, 
one  extensive  distillery,  three  foundries  and  machine-shops,  and 
a  ship-yard.  This  is  a  great  market  for  lumber,  grain,  and 
other  kinds  of  produce.  It  is  proposed  to  extend  a  railroad  from 
Belleyille  to  Lake  Simcoe,  and  thence  to  the  Georgian  Bay  of 
Lake  Huron. 

Port  Trenton,  87  miles  from  Kingston  by  steamboat  route, 
and  59  miles  by  railroad,  is  another  growing  place  and  port  of 
entry,  situated  near  the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Quinte,  at  the  mouth 
of  Trent  River.  It  contains  about  1,200  inhabitants ;  one  Epis- 
copal and  one  Methodist  church ;  three  hotels,  ten  stores,  one 
grist-mill,  one  extensive  steam  saw-mill,  one  large  tannery,  two 
distilleries,  a  foundry,  machine-shop,  and  ship-yards.  Steamers 
rnn  from  Port  Trenton  to  Kingston,  Prescott,  Montreal,  etc., 
trans-shipping  a  large  amount  of  lumber  and  country  produce. 

The  River  Trent,  which  is  the  outlet  of  Pemedashcoutayong, 
or  Rice  Lake,  is  a  fine  stream  of  water,  and  L  in  part  navi- 
gable for  steamers  running  into  the  lake.  Immense  quantities 
of  wild  rice  are  found  in  the  low  waters  of  this  lake  and  its  vi- 
cinity, which  abound  in  game  of  different  kinds,  affording 
ample  sport  and  profit  to  the  huntsman. 

The  principal  inlet  of  Rice  Lake  is  called  Otonibee  River ^ 
bemg  the  outlet  of  a  succession  of  lakes,  the  most  celebrated  of 
which  lies  823  feet  above  the  ocean,  and  is  called  Balsam  Lake ; 
the  other  bodies  of  water  are  called  Sturgeon  Lake,  West  Lake, 
and  East  Lake.  From  Balsam  Lake  to  the  Bay  of  Quinte 
there  is  a  succession  of  falls  of  588  feet  descent. 


0 


t. 


A,m 


LIST  OF  STEAMERS. 

AMERICAN  8TEAMEKS  BUILT  ON  LAKE  ONTARIO  AND  RIVEB 
ST.  LAWRENCE  SINCE  THEIR  INTRODUCTION  IN  1818. 


Vn'H.  N«m#.  Tons.  Wlieie  huiU.  Remark*. 

181fi. .Ontario 282. .Sacket's  Harbor— broken  up. 

181^ . .  Sophia  75 . .  Sacket's  Harbor— broken  up. 

1  28 . .  Martha  Ogden. . .  150 . .  Sacket's  Harbor— lost  in  1882. 

I'^O . .  Brownvllle 150 . .  Brownville— broken  up. 

ISjJI  . .  Charles  Carroll . .  100 . .  Sacket's  Harbor— broken  up. 

"    . ,  Paul  Pry. 50 . .  Ogdensburgh- broken  up. 

1 833 . .  United  States 450 . .  Ogdensburgh  -  broken  up. 

1S88 . .  Black  Hawk ....  200 . .  French  Creek— broken  up. 

1884 . .  Oswego 400 . .  Oswego,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

1886 , .  Oneida 800 . .  Oswego,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

1S87 . .  Telegraph 200 . .  Dexter.  N.  Y.— laid  up. 

1B88. .  John  Marshall. . .     60.  .Lake  Erie -lost  in  1844. 

1889 . .  St.  Lawrence ....  450 . .  Oswego,  N.  Y.— broken  up. 

"   . .  Express. 150 . .  Pultney  ville — tow  boat. 

1841 . .  George  Clinton . .  100 . .  Oswego,  N.  Y.— destroyed. 

"   . .  President 60 . .  Oswego,  N.  Y.— lost  in  1844. 

1842.  .Lady  of  the  Lake  425.  .Oswego,  N.  Y.— burnt  in  1854. 

1848.  .Rochester 850.  .Oswego,  N.  Y.— name  changed. 

1845 . .  Niagara. 478 . .  Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

1847.  i Cataract 577. . Clayton.  N.  Y.— Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

1848.  .Bay  State 1,098.  .Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

"   . .  Ontario 882 . .  Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

1849 . .  Northerner 905 . .  Os wej,'o,  N.  Y.-— Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

1868.  .New  York 1,200.  .Clayton,  N.  Y.— Lewiston  to  Ogdensburgh. 

RUNNING  ON  THE   ST.    LA.WRENCE    RIVER. 

Jenny  Lind 800 . .  Montreal,  0.  E.— Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal 

Montreal. 800 . .  Kingston,  C.  W.—Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal. 

British  Queen 800.  .Grand  Island -Ogdensburgh  to  Montreal 


BRITISH   STEAMERS   BUILT  ON  LAKE   ONTARIO  AND  THE 
RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE  SINCE  1816. 

BnMt.  Name.  T'"m.  Wliere  built.  Remarks. 

1816 . .  Frontenac  (Ist) 500 Kingston,  C.  W.— broken  up. 

1817.  .Charlotte 150. . .  .Kingston. 

1819..Dalhousie 850. . .  .Prescott 

1824. .Toronto 200. . . .Toronto. 

''   ..Queenston S50....Queenston. 

1S25. .Canada  (Ist) 250. . .  .Toronto. 

"   ..Niagara 400....Brockville. 

lS28..Alciope 450 ....  Niagara. 

1829.  .Sir  James  Kempt 2  0 Kingston. 

1830. . Great  Britain 700  .. .  Prescott, 

1881    Iroquois 100....  Prescott. 

1682.  .John  By 100. . .  .Kingston. 

"   . .  William  the  Fourth 450 ... .  Gananoque— tow  boat. 

"   ..Transit 850 . . . . Oakville—wrecked. 

1888.  .Britannia 200 ... . Kingston— broken  up. 

♦*     .Cobourg 600....Cobourg. 

**   -  .Kingston  (Ist) 200....  Kingston. 


1937.'! 


i< 
ik 
it 

t( 

1841. .H 


LIST    OF    STKAMKR9.    ETC. 


251 


AEIO  AND  RIVEB 
STION  IN  1818. 


larkM. 

en  up. 
en  up. 

in  1882. 

P- 

:en  up. 

I  up. 

.  up. 

1  up. 

n  up. 

nup. 

>. 

i. 

in  up. 

t. 

3yed. 

11844. 

i  in  1854. 

>  changed. 

)ton  to  Ogdensburgh. 

)ton  to  Ogdensburgh. 

iton  to  Ogdensburgh. 

iton  to  Oirdensburgh. 

iton  to  Ogdensburgh. 

(ton  to  Ogdensburgh. 

B   RIVER. 

msburgh  to  MontreaL 
msburgh  to  Montreal. 
sburgh  to  MontreaL 


TARIO  AND  THE 

1816. 

RemaTkB. 

W.— broken  up. 


flaiU. 

198S 

\m. 

u 

it 

1835." 
it 

1937; 

ii 

isss! 

n 

1840 ! 

tt 

it 
it 

tt 
t( 

mi." 

• 
u 

t( 

m. 
t« 

u 
i( 
a 
u 

1848 ! 


Nmn*.  Toil*. 

Broekville 850. 

.Com.  Barrie 275. 

Enterprise 200 . 

Union 800. 

Traveller   8.50. 

.St.  George  400 

.air  Robert  Peel 850. 

.Gore.... 200 

gueen  Victoria 200 
xperlment  — 150 . 

.  Henry  Glld(  rsleeve 250. 

.Ontario* 800 

.Highlander  (1st) 800. 

.Albion 200. 

.America  (1st) 8''0. 

.Sovereign 475 

.City  of  Toronto  600. 

.Prince  Edward 2  0. 

.  Frontenac  (2d) 200 . 

.Princess  Royal 600 . 

.Canada  «2d) 460. 

.  Despatch 200 

.  Prince  of  Wales 200 

.Admiral 400. 

.Chief  Justice  Robinson . .  4(f 

.Welland(l8t) 80u. 

.Mohawk  (iron) 150 . 

.Cherokee  (gov.  steamer)  700. 
.Eclipse 400. 


Wiierp  hnMt.        ReinarllB. 

. .  BrockvlUe. 
.  .Kingston— lost  in  1842. 
.  .F'ngston— broken  up. 
.  .Oakville— changed  to  barque. 
. .Niagara— tow  w)at. 
. .  Kingston    laid  up. 
. .  BrockvlUe    burnt  In  188S. 
.  .Niagara-  runs  on  Lake  Huron. 
.  .Niagara— wrecked. 
, .  .Niagara —broken  up. 
, .  .Kingston — tow  boat 
. .  Prescott— name  changed. 
, .  Coteau  du  Lac— broken  up. 
...BrockvlUe. 
, .  .Niagara— tow  boat 
, .  .Niagara— broken  up. 
, .  .Niagara— tow  boat 
. . .  Kingston— lost  In  1848. 
. . .  Kingston— broken  up. 
, .  .Niagara-  tow  boat 
. .  .Prescott— tow  boat 

laid  up. 

.  .Kingston— name  changed. 
. . .     ngara— runs  on  8t  Lawrence. 
. .  .,^1.  igara— Cobourg  to  Oswego. 

. ..    burnt  in  1856. 

. .  .Kingston— runs  on  Lake  Erie. 
.  .Kingston— sent  to  Halifax. 
.  .Niagara— changed  to  schooner. 


BRITISH    STEAMERS    RUNN     TO    ON    LAKE   ONTARIO    AND   THE 
ST.    LAWRENCE    KIVER,    1856. 


Vnm«. 


Comm«H'<«»ni. 


Tonn. 


Peerless James  Dick 400. 

Zimmerman D.  Mlllory 500 

Champion W.  Wilson a50 

Europa J.  Murdock 600 

May  Flower D.  Sinclair 800 

Highlander  (2d). ... .  D.  M^Brlde 250 . 

Maple  Leaf R.  Kerr 898 

Welland  (2d) W.  Donaldson . . .  — 

Ch.  Just  Robmson .  .Jacob  Young 815. 

Arabian Sclater 860. 

Kingston  (2d) C.  Hamilton 400 

Magnet H.  Twohy 600 

Passport Harbottlo 400 

Bowmanville C.  Peny. 400 

Monarch A.  Sinclair 400 

ProTlncial T.  Kidd 800 

Cora  Linn Sutherland 160. 

Lady  Elgin Nosworthy 200 

Bay  (T  Quinte F.  Carroll 250 

Oily  of  the  Bay W.  R.  Monroe . .  .200 

Sir  Charles  Napier..  G.  F.  Creighton.200 

™ton H  De  Witt 260. 

»^  Helen C.  Chrysler 100 


From 

Toronto. 


it 
it 


.Toronto. 

ti 


(t 


Cobourg.. 
Hamilton. 


To 

.Niagara. 
Oswego,  N.  Y. 


.RochesterNY. 

u 

PortDalhonsie. 
.Oswego,  N.  Y. 
.Prescott 


ii 
t( 
t( 
t( 

t( 

.Kingston 

i( 
i( 
({ 


•Port  Trenton. 

u 


u 
Montreal. 

Prescott 

.  Port  Trenton. 

Belleville. 
u 

u 

Cape  Vincent 

.Montreal. 

ii 


♦  Lord  Sj/denham— running  on  the  lower  St  Lawrence— waa  the  first 
•teamer  that  run  down  the  Rapids  in  1840. 


252 


LIST    OF    STEAMERS,   BffO. 


Illlfllln;,:.! 


RUNNIirO   ON    THE    8T.    LAWRENCE    RIVER. 

Nnme.  ConiinHndBrn.  Tons.        From  To 

Banshee T.  Howard 800..Ein(r8tou Montreal. 

NewEra.  P.  O.  Chrysler...  2()0         ^*  " 

Ottawa   J.  R.  Kellcy 270  "  ** 

St.  Lawrence T.  Muxwell. 200  "  •♦ 

Note. — ^The  Tonnage  of  British  Steamers  is  rated  about  one 
third  less  than  by  the  American  measurement,  owing  to  de* 
ducting  the  space  for  engine  and  machinery. 

The  Steamers  America  and  Canada,  two  large  vessals  of 
about  800  tons  each,  were  recently  built,  and  run  from  Hamll* 
ton  to  Brockville,  in  connection  with  the  Great  Western  Rail- 
way of  Canada ;  but  after  the  completion  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  to  Toronto  they  were  found  unprofitable,  have  since  been 
condemned^  and  their  engines  taken  out  and  sold. 


CANADIAN  VESSELS. 

From  a  list  of  Canadian  steamers,  propellers,  and  schooners 
trading  on  the  Lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence  Riyer,  recently  com* 
piled,  we  gather  the  following  facts  :  In  commission,  47  steam* 
ers,  17  propellers,  und  171  schooners ;  the  tonnage  of  which 
(British  measurement)  amounts  to  about  42,000  tons ;  the  esti- 
mated value  being  about  $3,500,000. 


LIST   OF   BTEAMERSy  ETC. 


253 


U3T  OP  BRITISH  STEAMERS  BUILT  AND  RUNNING  ON  THE 
ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER,  BELOW  MONTREAL  SINGE  1810. 


s  rated  about  one 
9nt,  owing  to  do* 

)  large  vessalg  of 
run  from  Hamll* 
sat  Western  Rail- 
the  Grand  Trunk 
le,  have  since  been 
sold. 


ers,  and  schooners 
Lver,  recently  com' 
uission,  47  steam* 
tonnage  of  which 
100  tons ;  the  esti- 


Hiillt 


Name. 


Turn.  Wli«r«  bullC    Rem«rki. 


ISIO 

m 

1814 


Accommodation ....  — 

Swiftsure — 

Malsham — 

1S16  Car  of  Commerce. . .  — 
IJlt.Lady  Sherbrooke...  — 

"  .Caledonia — 

*'  .Telegraph — 

lSl3.New  Swlftsuro — 

2uebec(l8t) — 
ontreal  (Ist) — 

•♦  .Chambly — 

"  .St.  Lawrence  (l8t)..  — 

1S22. La  Prairie — 

1825.Hercales 800 

"  .Edmund  Henry — 

18M.  Waterloo 200 

1329 .  British  America ....  891 . 

"^  .JohnMolson 800. 

ISM.Voyageur 800. 

"  .Canada 850. 

**  .Canadian Eagle.... 260 

«  .Patriot 100 

1838.Britannla. 185. 

1884. John  Bnll COO. 

lS86.Prinoess  Victoria...  171. 

1887.Charlevoix 200. 

1889.Lady  Colborne 250 . 

"  .Lord Sydenham....  — . 

1940.Queen 872. 

1841.Montreal  (2d) 878. 

1842.North  America 181. 

1348.AUiance 102. 

"  .St.  Louis 190. 

"  .Prince  Albert  (lron).188. 
1945.Lord  Elgin 153. 

"  .Quebec  (2d)....,... 400. 

«  .Rowland  Hill 250. 

1846.  John  Munn 400. 

"  .Richelieu 70. 

184T.Iron  Duke  (iron). .  .109. 

"  .Ottawa 270. 

1848.  Jaques  Cartier 78 . 

1849.  Crescent. 72. 

ISW.Oastor 76. 

"  .St.  Lawrence  (2d)... 800. 

1354.Montreal  (8d) 800. 

"  .J.M'Ker.zie 260 

"  .Saguenay 800 

"  .Princess  Royal — 

"  .Huron 860 

"    MuskRat 160 

1855.0ultivateur 60 

"  .Advance — 

ISM.Napoleon 114 

•*  .Victoria. 114 


Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal -broken  up. 

Suebeo— broken  up. 
ontreal — broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal- broken  up. 
La  Prairie,  C.  £.— lost  in  the  loe. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal- broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal — broken  up. 
Montreal— burnt  in  1889. 
Montreal— tow  boat 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Montreal— broken  up. 
Lake  Ontario— broken  up. 
Sorel,  0.  E.— laid  up. 
Montreal— wrecked  1868. 
.Montreal— broken  up. 
.Montreal — ^laid  up. 
.  Sorel,  C.  E.— laid  up. 

,  Montreal  -  Champluin  Sc  St  Lawr*nce  Ferry. 
.Lake  Ontario— Montreal  to  Kingston. 
.Quebec- Montreal  to  Quebec. 
.Quebec— tow  boat 
.Quebec— Montreal  to  Quebec. 
Sorel,  0.  E.— M-^ntreal  to  Chambly. 
, Montreal— Ohamplain  &  St  Lawr'nce Ferry. 
.  Montreal. 

Sorel,  C.  £.— Montreal  to  Three  Rivers. 
.Montreal— laid  up. 
.Montreal— Montreal  to  Throe  Rivers. 

.Quebec -Montreal  to  Quebec. 
.Quebec — Montreal  to  Quebec. 
.Sorel,  C.  E. — Quebec  to  Saguenay. 

Lake  Ontario— Quebec  to  Saguenay. 

Sorel,  C.  E. 

.Montreal— Montreal  to  LongueiL 
.Montreal— Montreal  to  Berthier. 
.Quebec— Quebec  to  River  du  Loup. 
.Montreal— Montreal  to  Quebec 
.Montreal— Montreal  to  Quebc*. 

22 


m 
m 

■'-lit 


m 


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si,H;i:,|!}i|| 


^^  ^^fisr 


27      880 


CotU 


1 
1 

2 

1 
2 
1 

7 


8 

8 


£1,061,4J7 


254  CANALS   OF   CANADA. 

CANALS  OF  CANADA,  6H01I7INO  THEIR  LENGTH, 

LOCKS,  ETC. 

Welland  Canal. 
Main  Trunk,  Port  Colbome  to 

Pt.  Dalhouiie 28 

Dunnville  Feeder,  junction  to 

Dunnville 21 

Broad  Creek  i3rancu 1| 

St.  Lawrence. 

The  Gallops 2 

Point  Iroquois 8 

Rapid  Plat 4 

Farren's  Point | 

Cornwall llj 

(Long  Saut  Rapids) 
Beauharnoib 11 4 

(Cascade,  Cedars,  etc.) 
La  Chine 8| 

Total,  from  L.  Erie  to  Montreal    09 
Add  fall  not  requiring  locks . 
Fall  from  Montreal  to  tide- 
water at  Three  Riy.,  C.  E. 


£1,052,'jOI 


5 
64 


82} 

45 

635  feet 
17 

18 


£366,331 
£481,786 


Grand  total 


665  feet. 


Note. — Lake  Huron  is  eleyated  mne  feet  above  Lake  Erie, 
and  Lake  Superior  is  elevated  26  feet  above  Lake  Huron- 
making  a  total  elevation  above  tide->yater,  or  the  ocean,  of  600 1 
feet,  according  to  recent  surveys. 


Chamblt  Canal 11 J 

(River  Richelieu) 

St.  Ours  Lock,  do 

St.  Anne's  Lock. 

(Ottawa  River) 

BiDBAir  Canal. 

Kingston  to  Ottawa  City  . .  126 
Ottawa  Canal  and  Locks  . 


74 


CmI. 


9 

1 

1 

87 


5 


467      £965,000 
£117,647 


^ff 


TRIP  FROM  KINGSTON  TO  MONTREAL. 


46  £481,786 


The  American  steamers  on  lea^ng  Kingston  on  their  trip  to 
Ogdensburgh  run  between  Qrand  Island  and  Howe  bland,  two 
large  islands  belonging  to  the  British,  when  they  enter  the 
American  Channel  of  the  St.  Lawreno  and  land  at  Clayton, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  French  Cree):,  while  the  Canadian 
steamers  usually  run  the  North  or  British  Channel,  passing 
Gananoquif  20  miles  below  Kingston.  This  is  usually  the  first 
landing  made  by  the  British  steamers  in  descending  the  river, 
unless  they  stop  to  take  in  wood  at  some  of  the  numerous  islands. 

Thu  Thousand  Inlands. — The  remarkable  group  of  islands 
in  the  River  St.  Lawrence  called  "  The  Thousand  Islaadu" 
commences  opposite  the  city  of  Kingston,  and  stretches  down  the 
rirer  for  between  40  and  60  miles,  for  which  distance  the  St. 
Lawrence  is  between  jix  and  twelve  miles  wide.  They  lie  partly 
in  Canada  and  partly  within  the  bounds  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  the  boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  Canada 
(liriding  them  into  about  equal  parts. 

Fi  ( >m  an  examination  of  Bayfield's  chart  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  it  appears  that  Wolfe  or  Grand  Island,  belonging  to 
the  British,  is  18  miles  long  and  from  one  to  six  miles  wide. 
This  is  the  largest  island  of  the  group,  and  contains  much  good 
land,  being  inhabited  by  a  number  of  families.  A  canaJ  is  com- 
menced, extending  across  this  island,  to  facilitate  trade  with 
Cape  Vincent. 

Gage  Island,  lying  west  of  Grand  Island,  is  three  miles  long. 
On  its  southwest  end  may  be  seen  a  light-house  as  you  approach 
Kingston  from  Toronto  or  Oswego.  The  American  boats  usually 
run  between  this  island  and  Wolfe  Island,  through  the  Packet 
OT  Bateau  Channel. 

On  Garden  Island,  opposite  Kingston,  is  situated  a  large 
I  lumber  establishment,  where  may  usually  be  s'  n  vessels  taking 
in  Imnber,  destined  for  different  ports. 


250 


KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 


;i'»i' 


I  f ' 


Howe  Island,  also  belonging  to  the  British,  is  eight  milei 
long,  and  from  one  to  two  miles  wide,  lying  near  the  Canada 
shore.  The  usual  steamboat  route,  on  ascending  and  descending 
the  river,  is  between  this  island  and  Wolfe  Island,  running 
through  the  Kingston  or  British  Channel,  a  wide  expanse  of 
water,  extending  from  near  Kingston  to  French  Creek,  on  the 
American  side. 

The  American  Channel  runs  east  of  Wolfe  or  Grand  Island, 
between  that  and  Cape  Vincent,  where  extends  the  boundary 
line  between  the  two  countries,  this  being  considered  the  main 
channel. 

Carleton  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States,  is  situ- 
ated  nearly  opposite  Cape  Vincent.  It  contains  about  1,200 
acres  of  excellent  land,  and  is  an  important  island,  as  it  com- 
mands the  American  Channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  has  tvo 
fine  coves  or  harbors  at  the  upp«i  end,  where  are  extensive 
lumber  stations.  Here  was  erected  a  fort  by  the  British  in 
1777,  and  it  became  their  principal  military  and  naval  depot 
for  Lake  Ontario  during  the  Revolutionary  War.  Some  yean 
afterward,  the  shipping  and  public  stores  were  removed  to 
Kingston,  but  the  island  was  retained  and  occupied  by  British 
troops  until  1812,  when  the  guard  was  surprised  and  taken  by 
a  party  of  New  York  militia. 

The  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  among  the  islands  here  vary 
at  diflferent  seasons  from  three  to  four- feet  in  height,  exposing 
some  hundreds  of  islets  at  its  lowest  stage. 

The  fish  most  abundant  are  the  maskalonge,  pickerel,  black 
bass,  pike,  perch,  rock  bass,  cat-fish,  and  eels.  The  maskalonge, 
pickerel,  and  black  bass  are  taken  by  trolling ;  the  pike  are 
taken  in  nets,  and  the  perch,  rock  bass,  etc  ,  are  taken  by  hook 
and  line. 

On  the  islands  are  found  deer,  foxes,  raccoons,  rabbits,  squir- 
rels, muskrats,  and  minks ;  also  partridges,  quail,  and  wild  ducks 
in  abundance. 

Grindstone  Island,  five  and  a  half  miles  long,  belongs  to  i 
the  United  States.     This  is  a  large  island,  lying  in  the  mid- 


KINGSTON   TO   MONTREAL. 


257 


16  of  the  river ,  a  short  distance  below  the  mouth  of  French 
Creek.  Here,  it  is  said,  the  noted  Bill  Johnson  has  his  fayorite 
abodC}  either  on  the  main  island,  or  the  small  island  in  its  im- 
mediate vicinity,  called  Johnson^a  Island. 

Well's  Island,  another  large  and  important  island,  eight  or 
aine  miles  in  length,  is  attached  to  the  State  of  New  York ;  it 
lies  mostly  above  the  village  of  Alexandria,  the  boundary  line 
running  on  its  west  side,  where  lies  a  beautiful  body  of  water, 
called  the  "  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands  y*  which  is  a  favor- 
ite resort  for  the  angler  and  sportsman. 

The  Admiralty  Islands  are  a  group  lying  below  Howe 
Island,  and  belong  to  the  British.  Here  the  Canadian  Channel 
becomes  a  perfect  labyrinth  for  a  number  of  miles,  and  the 
navigation  would  be  very  dangerous  were  it  not  for  the  great 
depth  of  water  and  bold  shores  of  the  islets. 

The  Fleet  Group,  or  Navy  Islands,  commence  opposite 
Grindstone  Island,  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  and  ex- 
tends for  some  distance  below  to  opposite  Well's  Island.  Here 
the  boimdary  line  runs  close  to  the  latter  island,  giving  most 
of  the  small  islands  to  the  British. 

The  Old  Friends  are  a  small  group  immediately  below 
Well's  Island,  belonging  to  the  United  States. 

The  Indian  Group  also  lie  on  the  American  side  of  the  chan- 
nel, a  few  miles  below  the  latter  islands. 

The  Amateur  Islands  lie  in  the  middle  ot  the  river,  oppo- 
site Chippewa  Creek,  and  are,  in  part,  attached  to  the  State  of 
New  York,  and  a  part  belong  to  Canada,  the  boundary  lino 
running  between  them. 

Immediately  below  the  latter  ^elands  the  river  contracts  to 
I  cne  or  two  miles  in  width,  and  the  Thousand  Islands,  of  which 
I  there  are  at  least  fourteen  hundred,  may  be  said  to  terminate, 
although  a  large  collection  of  islands  called  Brock's  Group, 
lying  mostly  on  the  Canada  side,  are  passed  a  short  distance 
below  the  village  of  Brockville,  where  the  St.  Lawrence  River 
is  about  one  mile  wide,  which  width  it  averages  for  80  or  40 
|nile8j  until  you  approach  the  rapids  below  Ogdensburgh,  when 

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258 


KINGSTON    TO   MONTREAL. 


f- 

i 

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it' 

it  narrows  to  about  half  a  mile  in  widtli,  with  banks  elevated 
but  a  few  feet  above  the  water. 

"  The  main  stream  of  tlie  St.  Lawrence,"  says  Buckingham, 
speaking  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  "  is  So  thickly  studded  with 
islands  that  it  is  like  passing  through  a  vast  archipelago,  rather 
than  navigating  a  mighty  river.  They  are  for  the  most  part 
rocky  islets,  sometimes  rising  in  abrupt  cliffs  from  the  water, 
and  so  bold  and  steep  that  you  may  run  the  boat  near  enough 
to  touch  the  cliffs  from  the  vessel.  A  few  only  are  low  and  flat, 
but  being  nearly  all  wooded,  they  form  a  perpetual  succession 
of  the  most  romantically  beautiful  and  picturesque  groups  that 
can  be  conceived." 

Among  the  Thousand  Islands  are  usually  found  immense 
quantities  of  water-fowl  and  other  kinds  of  wild  game,  which, 
during  the  spring,  and  summer  months,  afford  great  pleasure  to 
the  sportsman.  The  fishin;^  is  also  excellent  for  the  most  part 
of  the  year.  During  the  months  of  July  and  August,  pleasure 
parties  from  the  surrounding  country,  and  strangers  from  a 
distance,  resort  here  for  their  amusement,  enjoying  themselves 
to  their  heart's  content  by  hunting,  fishing,  and  bathing,  being 
BUrrounded  by  wild  and  interesting  scenery  and  invigorating 
air,  not  exceeded  by  any  section  of  the  United  States  or  Canada. 

The  St,  Lawrence  River,  in  fact  for  its  entire  length  of  sev- 
eral hundred  miles,  presents  a  magnificent  appearance,  well 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  The  Rapids,  now  succoss- 
fully  navigated  on  their  downward  trip  by  steamboats  of  a  large 
class,  returning  through  the  canals,  afford  a  deeply  interesting 
excursion.  The  cultivated  fields  and  settlements  interchanging 
with  bolder  features,  impart  a  grandeur  as  well  as  variety  anl 
beauty  ^o  the  river  and  its  shores  which  no  other  streaui  on 
the  continent  possesses  in  an  equal  degree. 

Brockville,  50  miles  below  Kingston  and  125  miles  above 
Montreal  by  railroad  route,  is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing  town 
of  about  8,000  inhabitants ;  it  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  a 
custom-house,  several  churches,  two  good  hotels,  and  many  fine 
buildings,  besides  several  extensive  manufacturing  'establish- 


KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 


259 


'-■if 


th  banks  elevated 


ments«  Here  is  a  conyenient  steamboat  landing,  where  the 
American  and  British  passage-boats  usually  land  on  their  trips 
ap  and  down  the  river,  the  stream  here  being  about  two  miles 
in  width. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  which  runs  through  the  town, 
has  added  much  to  the  growth,  and  trade  of  this  place.  The 
BrockvUle  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  which  is  in  the  course  of  con- 
ptruction,  when  finished,  will  further  add  to  its  prosperity,  the 
country  in  ihc  rear  being  very  fertile  and  heavily  timbered, 
pmlucing  large  quantities  of  grain  and  lumber. 

Maitland  is  a  small  village,  five  miles  below  Brockville,  on 
the  same  side.  It  contains  a  church,  a  public  house,  and  some 
300  inhabitants. 

The  town  of  Prescott,  C.  W.,  is  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  directly  opposite  Ogdensburgh,  being  tlO 
miles  below  Kingston  and  1 13  miles  above  Montreal  by  railroad 
route.  This  point  may  bo  considered  as  the  foot  of  lake  and 
river  navigation  for  sail  vessels,  as  the  Gallop  Rapids  occur  about 
six  miles  below,  where  commences  the  first  of  the  series  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  canals,  terminating  with  the  La  Chine  Canal,  which 
enters  Montreal.  Prescott  is  a  port  of  eutry  and  contains  a 
cu8toni-hcu3e,  a  town- hall,  four  churches,  six  public  houses,  20 
or  30  stores,  a  foundry  and  machine-shop,  together  with  several 
breweries  and  distilleries,  and  three  extensive  laundries.  This 
is  also  a  great  depot  for  lumber  and  country  produce.    . 

British  and  American  steamers  usually  land  at  Prescott  several 
times  daily  on  their  route  up  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence.  Two 
steam  ferry-boats  are  also  constantly  running  between  this  place 
and  Ogdensburgh.  The  Grand  Trunk  Rai/way  ^fisHQS  through 
the  town,  and  the  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railroad ,  53  miles  in 
length,  terminates  here,  affording  a  speedy  and  direct  route  to 
Ottawa  City  and  the  lumber  region  above. 

No  section  of  (Canada  has  fairer  prospects  of  advancement 
than  Brockville  and  Prescott,  if  the  advantages  arg  embraced 
of  forming  lines  of  railroads  to  the  upper  Ottawa  country,  lying 
a8  they  do  nearer  to  that  heavily  timbered  region  than  MontreaL 


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260 


KINGSTON    TO    MONTKLAL. 


Fort  Wellington^  adjuinincr  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  is  a 
Btrong  fortification  u-»uaily  ga.'ri^oned  by  morj  ^'^  Iops  British 
troops.  Windmill,  Poina,  '-'vr  zi\\<i  and  a  h-^lT  hcio*v  che  fort, 
was  the  scene  of  an  uafortuiiaie  attack  by  the  patriots  of  1838, 
who,  after  effecting  a  laud  ir.g  an)  ma'utaining  their  position  with 
great  determination  for  several  days,  were  taken  prisoners,  many 
of  whom  were  afterward  executed  at  Elingston,  and  others  tran- 
sported to  Van  Dieman's  Land. 


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KINGSTON    TO    MONTREAL. 


EAPID8  OF  THE  ST.  LAWEKNOl 


2C1 


Os  resuming  tlie  dovnTyurd  'rip,  after  Icav'^ip  rr^jcct*.  {it 
Oi^cnsbu'gn,  the  most  interesting  oujccta  are  prtienteJ  ii.  vie^ 
irom  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  The  depot  buildings  of  f  ut  No'tb  - 
em  Railroad  of  New  York,  on  the  one  side,  and  Wiii*i  411  Vyjut 
on  the  Canada  side,  are  quickly  passed  and  the  Eapiiils  ,oon 
reached. 

Chimney  Island,  four  miles  below  Prescottj  is  an  interest- 
ing spot  J  where  may  be  seen  tLc  remains  of  a  fortification, 
erected  by  the  French  during  the  early  settlement  of  Canada. 

The  Gallop  Rapids,  six  miles  below  Preacott  or  Ogdensburgh, 
are  easily  passed  by  steamboats,  although  they  prevent  the 
navigation  of  the  S^  Lawrence  by  sail  vessels.  They  extend 
for  about  two  miles,  arounf^  which  is  a  ship  canal  on  the  Canada 
side  of  the  river,  overcoming  a  descent  of  seven  feet. 

Matilda,  eight  miles  farther,  is  a  convenient  steamboat 
landing  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river,  where  is  a  canal  one 
mile  and  three-quarters  in  length. 

Waddington,  on  the  American  shore,  18  miles  below  Og- 
densburgh, lies  opposite  Ogden's  Island,  which  is  pas -*kI  to  tlve 
right,  descending  through  the  main  channel,  forming  the  bound- 
ary line.  Here  commences  Rapid  Plat,  and  Ttende  .bout  two 
and  a  half  miles.  Another  canal  of  the  sai  j  lenpoh  is  buiit: 
on  the  Canada  shore,  to  overcome  the  desc  m  the  river  of 
eleven  and  a  half  feet. 

Williamsburg,  seven  miles  below  MatiHa,  '■ '  a  regular 
steamboat  landing,  where  passage-boats  usually  touch  ascend- 
ing and  descending  the  river.    Here  is  another  short  canal. 

Chrysler's  Farm,  a  few  miles  below  Williamsburg,  is  the 
place  where  was  fought  a  battle  in  the  war  of  1812,  between 
the  English  and  Americans,  in  which  the  latter  were  defeated, 
with  considerable  loss  in  killed  and  wounded. 

Louisville  Landixg,  28  miles  below  Ogdensburgh,  is  wl.ere 
passengers  leave  for  Masftena  Springs^  six  les  distant  by 
stage.   This  is  a  great  resort  for  invalids  during  warm  weather. 


'i? 


fe  ;  't 


*{P.,.- 


262 


KINGSTON   TO   MONTREAL. 


The  Long  Saut  Bapidb,  extending  from  Dickinsoii^s  Land- 
iug,  40  miles  below  Prescott,  to  Cornwall  on  the  Canada  side, 
is  one  of  the  longest  and  most  important  rapids  of  the  i^t.  Law- 
rence. They  are  divided  by  islands  into  two  channv^ls,  the 
•American  Channel  and  the  Lost  Channel  *  Formerly,  the 
American,  or  East  Channel,  was  mostly  run  by  steamers  .'n  the 
downward  trip,  but  of  late  the  Lost  Channel,  on  the  Canadian 
side,  is  mostly  used.  This  channel  presents  a  grand  and  ter- 
rific appearance,  the  water  being  lashed  into  a  white  foam  foT 
seTeral  miles,  yet  still  the  steamer  glides  rapidly  through  them 
into  the  quiet  and  beautiful  expanse  of  water  below  Cornwall. 

The  Cornwall  Canal  commences  72  miles  above  Montreal, 
on  about  the  45th  degree  of  north  latitude,  the  dividing  line  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Canada.  It  extends  to  Dickinson's 
Landing,  11^  miles,  overcoming  48  feet  descent  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Barnhart  Island  and  Long  Saiit  Island,  two  large  and 
cultivated  bodies  of  land,  belong  to  the  State  of  New  York, 
while  Cornwall  Island  and  Sheek's  Island  belong  to  Canada, 
dividing  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  into  two  channels,  for 
most  of  the  distance  through  the  rapids. 

Cornwall,  112  miles  from  Kingston  and  70  miles  aboTe 
Montreal,  is  situated  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  river,  at  the 

*  Tassagb  op  thh  Loxo  Sattt  Rapid.— Those  who  have  traveled  on  the 
8t  Lawrence  are  aware  that  betweeir  Dickinson's  Landing  and  Cornwall, 
a  distance  of  from  twelve  to  fourteen  miles,  there  is  a  long  rapid  called  the 
Loftff  Saut.  This  rapid  is  divided  into  two  channels  by  an  inland  in  the 
center,  the  channel  on  the  south  side  being  the  one  which  has  heretofore 
been  descended  by  steamers  and  other  large  craft  passing  down  the  river. 
Capt  Maxwell,  the  enterprising  commander  of  the  mail  steamer  "  Ollder- 
sleeve,"  having  some  time  ago  become  impressed  with  nn  idea  that  ilic 
channel  on  the  north  side  of  the  island  was  not  only  practicable  for  vessels 
of  a  large  class,  but  that  it  was  much  safer  and  easier  of  descent  than  the 
channel  on  the  south  side,  made,  with  much  trouble,  soundings  and  obser- 
vations, for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether  such  was  really  the  case. 

Having  well  satisfied  himself  in  the  matter,  he  (with  Mr.  Hamilton's 
permission)  made  a  descent  down  the  North  Channel,  sometimes  called 
Lost^  Cfianne',  in  the  mail  steamer  "  Gildersleeve."  The  passage  was 
mugniflcent,  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  Rapid  far  surpassing  even 
those  of  the  Rapids  at  the  Cedars,  the  Cascades,  or  La  Chine.  Owing  to 
the  great  rapidity  of  the  current,  the  water  is  much  rougher  than  on  the 
south  side  of  the  island,  but  the  channel  is  straighter,  and  in  every  respect 
better  than  the  one  heretofore  adopted,  and  there  is  little  doubt  that  ere 
long  the  North  Channel  will  be  the  one  which  the  main  traffic  of  the  river 
will  pass  through. — Montreal  Ilerald. 


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KINGSTON   TO  MONTREAL. 


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lower  end  of  the  Cornwall,  or  St,  Lawrence  Canal.  The 
town  contains  about  2,500  inhabitants,  400  dwelling-houses,  a 
court-house  and  jail,  five  churches,  twenty  stores,  and  seyeral 
hotels.  This  is  a  regular  steamboat  landing  for  American  and 
British  steamers.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  also  passes 
through  the  rear  part  of  the  town. 

St.  Regis,  four  miles  below,  on  the  American  side  of  the 
riTer,  is  situated  on  the  line  of  the  46th  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude, the  St.  Lawrence  below  this  point  being  entirely  in 
Ctuiada.  St.  Regis  is  an  Indian  Tillage,  part  of  its  inhabitants 
living  in  the  United  States  and  part  in  Canada.  It  contains 
four  or  &ve  hundred  inhabitants,  80  dwelling-houses,  one  Roman 
Catholic  church,  one  Protestant  church,  one  tavern,  and  two 
stores.  Here  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing,  where  during 
warm  weather  may  sometimes  be  seen  Indian  boys,  prepared  to 
plunge  into  the  water  on  having  a  piece  of  money  thrown  over- 
board: often  it  is  caught  by  these  expert  swimmers  before 
reaching  the  bottom. 

Lake  St.  Fraxcis,  a  most  beautiful  expanse  of  water,  is  an 
expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Goteau  du  Lac,  extending 
for  a  number  of  miles.  It  is  studded  with  lovely  and  pictur- 
esque islands,  giving  a  variety  to  the  scenery  of  this  river  which 
is  almost  indescribable.  The  Indian  village  of  St.  Regis,  and 
an  island  owned  by  the  natives,  lie  near  its  upper  termina- 
tion. 

Lancaster,  15  miles  below  Cornwall,  lies  on  the  west  side 
of  the  lake,  or  river,  here  presenting  a  wide  surface,  the  waters 
calmly  pursuing  their  course  downward  before  rushing  impetu- 
ously do. fn  the  several  rapids  below  Coteau  du  Zmc,  or  the  foot 
of  the  lake. 

At  Coteau  dit  Lac,  40  miles  above  Montreal,  commences  a 
rapid  of  the  same  name,  extending  about  two  miles.  Seven 
miles  below  this  commences  the  Cedar  Rapid,  which  extends 
about  three  miles.  (  See  Frontispiece. )  Then  comes  the  Cascade 
Rapid,  which  terminates  at  the  head  of  Lake  St.  Louis,  where 
the  dark  waters  of  the  Ottawa,  by  one  of  its  mouths,  joins  the 


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St.  Lawrence.    These  three  rapids,  in  eleven  miles,  have  a  de- 
scent of  82J  feet,  being  overcome  by  the  Beauharnois  Canal. 

The  grandeur  of  the  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  these  Rapids 
can  not  be  conceived  without  being  Witnessed.  The  mighty  St. 
Lawrence  is  here  seen  in  all  its  magnificence  and  power,  being 
lashed  into  a  foam  for  miles  by  the  impetuosity  of  its  current. 
The  Cedar  Rapids*  have  hitherto  been  considered  the  most 
formidable  obstruction  to  downward-bound  craft,  but  the  uew 
^jth  Channel,  or  McPherson's  Channel,  as  it  is  now  called, 
affords  an  additional  depth  of  water.  The  steamer  Bytown, 
Capt.  Wm.  Sughrue,  in  1843,  was  the  first  steamboat  that  de- 
scended this  channel,  which  was  brought  into  notice  by  D.  S. 
McPherson,  Esq.,  one  of  the  late  firm  of  the  forwarding-house 
of  McP>  -rson,  Crane  &  Go. 

Beauharnois,  24  miles  above  Montreal,  lies  at  the  foot  of 
the  Cascade- Rapids,  where  commences  the  Beauharnois  Canal, 
12  miles  in  length,  overcoming  altogether  a  descent  of  82^  feet. 
Between  Fond  du  Lac  and  Beauharnois,  or  the  foot  of  the  Cas- 
cade Rapids,  is  the  most  wild  and  romantic  scenery  that  the  St. 
Lawrence  presents. 

Caughxawaga,  ten  miles  above  Montreal,  is  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, numbering  several  hundred  inhabitants.  Here  commences 
the  Montreal  and  Plattsburgh  Railroad,  52  miles  m  length.  It 
lA  proposed  to  construct  a  ship  canal  from  this  place  to  the  Riche- 
lieu River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain,  thus  uniting  the  waters 
of  the  3t.  Lawrence  and  Hudson  River,  via  Champlain  Canal. 

La  Chine,  eight  miles  above  Montreal,  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  called  Lake  St.  lA)uii, 
where  enter  the  black  waters  of  the  Ottawa  River,  the  St. 
Lawrence  presenting  a  greenish  hue,  the  diflference  in  the  color 
of  the  waters  being  plainly  visible  for  many  miles  below. 

The  La  Chine  R.*  pids,  a  few  miles  above  Montreal,  are  the 
last  rapids  of  importance  that  occur  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  They 

♦  It  was  here  that  Gen.  Amherst's  brigade  of  800  men,  on  their  way  to 
attaolc  Canada,  then  in  possession  of  the  French,  were  lost  I  At  Montreal 
Uiey  received  the  first  intelligence  of  the  invasion,  by  the  dead  bodies 
flOAting  down  the  river  past  the  town. 


KINGSTON    TO   MONTREAL. 


265 


are  now  considered  the  most  dangerous  nnd  difficult  of  naviga- 
tion. Those  rapids  are  obviated  by  the  La  Chine  Canal,  8i^ 
miles  in  length,  overcoming  a  descent  of  44 J  feet.  Canals  of  a; 
large  capacity  now  run  7round  all  the  rapids,  enabling  steamers 
of  a  large  size  to  ascend  the  river,  although  at  a  much  less- 
speed  than  the  downward  trip. 

"  The  St.  Lawrence  is  perhaps  the  only  river  in  the  world' 
possessing  so  great  a  variety  of  scenery  and  character,  in  the 
short  distance  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles — from  Kingston 
to  Montreal.     The  voyage  down  this  portion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence in  a  steamer  is  one  of  the  most  exciting  and  interesting; 
that  our  country  affords  to  the   pleasure-seeking    traveler. 
Starting  at  daylight  from  the  good  old  city  of  Kingston,  we  are  ■ 
at  first  enraptured  by  the  lovely  and  fairy-like  scenery  of  the? 
•  Lake  of  the  Tho:::  and  Isles,'  and  oft  we  wonder  how  it  is  that 
oar  helmsman  can  guide  us  through  the  intricate  path  that  lies« 
before  him.    Surely  he  will  make  some  mistake,  and  we  shalL 
lose  our  way,  and  our  steamer  wander  for  ages  ere  the  track- 
less path  be  once  more  discovered.    However,,  we  are  wrong,., 
and  long  before  the  sun  has  set  we  have  shot  the  *  Long  Saut,' 
and  are  passing  through  the  calm  and  peaceful  Lake  St.  Francis. 
Gently  we  glide  along,  and  are  lost  in  pleasing  levei'ies,  which, 
grace  the  scenes  of  our  forenoon's  travel.     SudtJenly  "v/e  aret 
awakened  from  our  dreams  by  a  pitch,  and  then  u  quick  j,erk. 
of  our  vessel,  and  rising  to  see  .the  cause,  we  find  ourselves  re- 
ceiving warning  in  the  Coteau  Rapids,  of  wh  j,t  wo  may  expect 
when  we  reach  the  Cedars,  a  few  miles  farther  on.    Now  the* 
bell  is  rung  for  the  engine  to  slow  its  speed,  and  glancing  tow- 
ard the  beam,  we  find  it  merely  moving  sufficient  to  keep  head- 
way on  the  vessel ;  now  looking  toward  the  wheelman's  house, . 
we  see  four  men  standing  by  the  wheel ;  backward  we  turn  our  • 
gaze,  and  four  more  stand  by  the  tiller ,  to  assist  those  at  the 
wheel  in  guiding  our  craft  down  the  fearful  leaps  she  is  about 
to  take.    These  preparations  striking  us  with  dread,  we,  wlio- 
are  now  making  our  first  trip,  involuntarily  clutch  the  nearest, 
object  for  support,  and  checking  our  bruath,  await  the  first 
plnnge.    *Tis  over.     We  are  reeling  to  and  fro,  and  dancing 
hither  and  thither  among  billows  of  enormous  size,  caused  solely 
by  the  swiftness  of  the  current.     With  difficulty  we  keep  our 
feet  while  rushing  down  the  tortuous  channel,  through  which 
only  we  can  be  preserved  from  total  wreck  or  certain  death. 
Jfow  turning  to  the  right,  to  avoid  a  half-sunken  rock,  about 
whose  summit  the  waves  are  ever  dashing,  we  are  apparently 
^inming  on  an  island  situated  immediately  before  us.     On  !  on 
we  rush !    We  must  ground !  but  no ;  her  head  is  easing  off,  and. 

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RAPIDfl    OP    THK    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


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as  we  fly  past  the  island,  a  darins  leap  miffht  land  \is  on  itg 
shores ;  and  now  again  we  are  tossed  and  whirled  about  In  a  sea 
of  foam ;  we  look  back  to  scan  the  dangers  passed,  and  se ;  a  raft 
far  behind,  struggling  in  the  waves.  While  con  tempi  at' ng  its 
dangers,  we  foreet  our  own,  and  the  lines  of  Horace  appear  pe- 
culiarly applicable  to  the  Indian  who  first  intrusted  his  frail 
canoe  to  these  terrific  rapids  : 

llli  robur  et  oes  triplex 
Circa  pectus  erat,  qui  Aragilem  truoi 

Oommisit  pelago  ratera 
Primus .' " 


RAPIDS  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE-EXCITEMENT  OF  THE 

TRIP. 
Extractfrom  a  OorfMpotident  of  the  DetroU  Advertiser — 1856. 

'"Lbavixo  Hamilton  in  the  evening,  on  board  one  of  the 
splendid  steamers  navigating  Lake  Ontario,  running  direct  for 
the  St.  Lawrence  River,  a  distance  of  about  180  miles,  we  liad 
a  very  pleasant  night  on  the  lake,  and  arrived  at  Cape  Vincent, 
N.  Y.,  at  7  next  morning;  discharged  some  freight,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Brockville,  Canada,  and  thence  toOgdensburgh,  N.  Y., 
where  we  arrived  about  noon ;  passing  from  Cape  Vincent  to 
Ogdensburgh  {via  the  FiXpress  Line  of  steamers),  we  thread  our 
winding  way  through  among  the  Thousand  Islands ;  here  is  nor 
monotony,  for  the  scenery  is  continually  changing  and  ever 
beautiful. 

*♦  I  have  spoken  of  the  route  by  which  I  came  to  Ogdens- 
burgh ;  another  very  pleasant  route  is  by  way  of  the  steamer 
from  Detroit  to  Buffalo,  thence  to  the  Niagara  Falls,  taking  the 
boat  at  Lewiston.  By  this  route,  passengers  may  see  many 
points  of  interest.,  which  they  do  not  see  in  traveling  by  the 
direct  route. 

'*  On  Wednesday,  July  17th,  we  left  Ogdensburgh  on  the 
steamer  Montreal,  Cape.  J.  Laflamme,  ran  across  the  St. 
Lawrence  to  Prescott — then  headed  down  the  river  to  Montreal. 
At  six  miles  from  Ogdensburgh  we  passed  the  first  rapid 
(Gallop).  This  being  the  first  of  a  series  of  rapids  that  we  had 
to  pass  on  our  way  to  Montreal,  we  had  the  curiosity  to  notice 
the  effect  the  scene  had  on  the  passengers.  The  first  with  whom 
we  came  in  contact  was  a  nervous  old  gentleman,  and  he  was 
rushing  from  one  side  of  the  boat  to  the  other,  with  fear  and 
admiration  depicted  on  his  countenance,  whib  excitement  had 
taken  |K)ssession  of  his  whole  frame. 

**  Here  is  a  grbup  of  sentimenlal  young  ladies ;  so  deeply  are 
they  absorbed  in  drinking  in  the  sickly  sentiments  of  the  cheap, 
yellow-covered  literature  which  they  hold  in  their  hands,  that 


RAPIDS    OF    THE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


267 


SMENT  OF  THE 


they  know  nothing  of  the  wild  and  beautifal  Boene  through 
which  we  are  passing.  This  is  not  the  case  with  all,  for  many 
are  standing  or  seated  near  the  railing  of  the  deck,  looking 
calmly  at  the  turbulent  waters,  and  discoursing  upon  the  cause 
of  all  this  commotion ;  others  stand  in  the  background,  wishing, 
but  fearing  to  look  at  the  trembling  of  the  waves.  We  are  now 
post  the  first  rapid,  or  the  '*  Gallops,"  and  the  water  is  now  in 
a  state  of  perfect  calmness,  and  so  are  the  passengers. 

''  The  bocvt  stops  a  few  moments  at  Louisrille,  85  miles  from 
Ogdensburgh.  At  this  point  the  river  is  divided  by  an  island, 
and  here  begins  the  Lmhi^  Santj  a  rapid  of  nine  miles  in  length ; 
formcrl}'^  the  boat^s  passed  down  the  south  side,  where  the  water 
runs  with  greater  rapidity.  The  north  side  is  called  the  *  Lost 
Channel,*  a  name  given  to  it  by  the  French  boatmen,  as  they 
supposed  that  if  a  boat  drifted  into  it,  it  would  certainly  be 
lost.  A  channel  has  been  found  on  the  north  side,  and  now' 
the  steamers  pass  by  it  in  preference  to  the  south  channel. 

"  As  we  approach  the  rapid,  the  grand  and  lofty  tumbling  of 
the  waters,  as  they  break  upon  the  projecting  r-  -oks,  have  an 
angry  appearance,  and  look  as  if  they  were  pi  3{raring  to  ol.- 
gulph  us.  We  are  standing  upon  the  bow  of  the  boat,  and  are 
fascinated  by  the  view  of  tho  scene,  yet  we  involuntarily  turn 
our  eyes  to  the  pilot-house,  iL  front  of  which,  on  an  elevation, 
stands  the  captain,  and  at  the  wheel  are  four  strong  men. 
^'either  fear  nor  anxiety  is  to  be  perceived  in  either  counte- 
nance ;  but  with  their  eyes  fixed  upon  the  landmarks,  and  their 
Btrong  hands  upon  the  wheel,  they  guide  the  ship  through  the 
narrow  and  crooked  channel  with  unerring  precision.  The 
grand  and  picturesque  scene  has  now  brought  all  to  their  feet ; 
the  novel-readers  have  dropped  their  books,  and  the  excitement 
of  reality  now  surpasses  the  excitement  of  their  fiction.  The 
nervous  man  is  standing  bareheaded  against  the  pilot-house, 
with  both  Lands  elevated,  mouth  open,  and  an  exclamation  upon 
the  end  of  his  tongue,  as  his  tongue  refuses  to  act ;  but  as  the 
boat  glides  out  of  the  last  billow  into  smooth  water,  the  ex- 
clamation drops  from  his  lips,  his  mouth  shuts  with  a  sudden 
jerk ;  and  as  he  subsides  into  a  calm  he  wipes  the  sweat  from 
his  brow,  and  is  glad  that  he  has  seen  and  passed  over  that 
rapid.  Only  a  small  portion  of  the  Long  Saut  is  very  rough, 
the  rest  of  't  has  much  the  appearance  of  Hell  Gate,  N.  Y. 

"  After  pt^ssing  the  Long  Saut,  the  boat  stops  a  few  moments 
at  Cornwall  on  the  Canada  side.  In  a  short  time  after  leaving 
Cornwall,  the  river  widens  into  a  lake,  which  is  called  iMke  St, 
FrancM.  This  lake  is  about  forty  miles  in  length.  Having 
passed  it,  the  boat  stops  a  few  moments  at  the  -village  of  Uoteau 
du  Lac. 

"  Soon  after  leaving  the  Coteau,  we  pass  the  Coteau,  Cedar, 


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RAPIDS    OF    THE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


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Siplit'Rocky  and  Cascade  Rnp'uU.  The  passage  of  these  rapids 
is  very  exciting,  particularly  the  Split- Rock ;  here,  as  the  boat 
is  by  the  action  of  the  water  lifted  above  the  rocks,  and  then 
dropped  down  among  them,  the  waters  covering  and  then  re- 
ceding and  leaving  the  rocks  nearly  bare,  upon  either  side, 
looks  fearfully  dangerous ;  the  channel  is  narrow,  the  current 
rapid,  and  the  boat  is  carried  along  at  a  2  40  pace ;  but  the 
boat  is  strong,  and  a  skillful  pilot  is  at  the  helm,  and  the  pas- 
sage is  very  quickly  and  safely  made. 

"  The  river  again  widens,  and  is  called  Lake  St.  Louis.  At 
the  foot  of  this  lake,  on  the  south  side,  is  the  Indian  village  of 
Caughnawaga.  Here  a  boat  comes  off  from  the  village,  and 
brings  an  Indian  named  Baptiste.  He  is  a  fine-looking  man, 
apparently  about  sixty  years  of  age;  he  comes  on  board  to  pilot 
the  boat  over  the  La  Chine,  which  is  the  last  but  most  dangerous 
of  the  rapids.  No  man  but  Baptiste  has  ever  yet  piloted  a 
steamer  over  these  rapids.  As  the  boat  moves  onward  to  the 
rapids,  all  the  passengers,  even  to  the  novel-readers,  are  anx- 
ious to  get  a  good  position  in  order  to  have  a  good  view  of  the 
heaving,  breaking,  and  laughing  waters.  As  we  enter  the 
rapids,  we  appear  to  be  running  upon  a  small  grass-covered 
rocky  island.  Indeed,  as  the  bow  of  the  boat  is  so  near  that  it 
appears  to  be  impossible  to  clear  it,  we  look  to  see  if  the  pilot 
is  at  the  helm.  Yes,  there  stands  the  captain  at  his  post  in 
front  of  the  wheel-house,  and  the  Indian  pilot,  with  three  other 
Strong  men  are  at  the  wheel ;  and  as  we  look  at  the  calm  coun- 
tenance of  the  Indian,  and  see  that  his  bright  eye  does  not  so 
much  as  wink,  but  is  fixed  steadily  upon  his  beacon,  whatever 
it  may  be,  and  that  the  wheelsmen  are  fully  under  his  control, 
we  feel  that,  with  his  skill,  care,  and  knowledge  of  the  way,  we 
may  banish  fear  from  our  thoughts. 

'  i^aptiste  is  a  noble  Indian ;  he  guides  the  boats  among  the 
islands  and  the  rocks,  over  the  rapids  and  through  the  intricate 
channels,  as  easily  as  a  skillful  horseman  reins  a  high-spirited 
charger.  As  quick  as  thought  the  boat  glides  away  from  those 
rocks  which  it  appeared  impossible  to  avoid,  but  the  pilot  ap- 
parently is  insensible  to  fear,  though  not  to  the  responsibility 
that  rests  upon  him.  He  is  aware,  and  all  are  aware,  that  one 
false  move  and  all  is  lost ;  for  the  current  is  so  swift,  the  seas 
run  so  high,  and  the  boat  is  driven  so  rapidly,  that  one  touch 
upon  a  rock  would  shiver  her  to  atoms.  Although  the  passage 
of  the  rapids  appears  to  be  dangerous,  a  sense  of  pleasure  and 
excitement  takes  the  place  of  fear.  Just  as  we  left  the  La  Chins 
llapids,  looking  for  the  nervous  man— there  he  stood,  shaking, 
laughing,  and  exclaiming,  ♦  that  caps  ths  climax.*  In  about 
half  an  hour  after  leaving  this  last  rapid,  we  enter  the  harbor 
of  Montreal." 


;e  of  these  rapida 
here,  as  the  boat 
I  rocks,  and  then 
ng  and  then  re- 
ipon  either  side, 
TOW,  the  current 
10  pace ;  but  the 
elm,  and  the  pas- 

fce  St.  Louis.    At 
Indian  village  of 

the  village,  and 
fine-looking  man, 
J  on  board  to  pilot 
at  most  dangerous 
'er  yet  piloted  a 
ves  onward  to  the 
readers,  are  anx- 
i  good  view  of  the 
As  we  enter  the 
lall  grass-covered 
b  is  so  near  that  it 
to  see  if  the  pilot 
ain  at  his  post  in 
;,  with  three  other 
at  the  calm  coun- 
ht  eye  does  not  so 

beacon,  whatever 
under  his  control, 
[ge  of  the  way,  we 

boats  among  the 
pugh  the  intricate 
IS  a  high-spirited 

away  from  those 
but  the  pilot  ap- 
the  responsibiUty 
•e  aware,  that  one 

so  swift,  the  seas 
lly,  that  one  touch 
^ough  the  passage 
le  of  pleasure  and 
k  left  the  La  Chine 
he  stood,  shaking, 
liMAx.*    In  about 

enter  the  harbor 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  TORONTO, 
ETC.,  VIA  GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY. 


As  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada  has  recently  been 
opened  from  Montreal  to  Toronto,  and  from  the  latter  place  is  in 
rapid  progress  of  completion  to  Port  Sarnia,  situated  at  the  foot 
of  Lake  Huron,  we  give  the  following  description  of  the  route 
from  Montreal  westward,  ascending  the  noble  St.  Lawrence. 

The  depot  is  situated  at  the  termination  of  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  center  of  Montreal, 
subjecting  the  traveler  to  a  long  ride  from  the  hotels  or  steam- 
boat landing.  On  leaving  the  depot  the  La  Chine  Canal  is  soon 
passed,  and  then  the  Montreal  and  La  Chine  Railroad,  the 
track  of  tht  Grand  Trunk  Railway  extending  westerly  across 
the  fertile  island  of  Montreal,  passing  in  sight  of  Lake  St. 
Louis,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Lawrence 
riyers. 

St.  Anne*s,  21  miles  from  Montreal,  is  a  French-Canadian 
village,  of  some  four  or  five  hundred  inhabitants.  Here  is  a 
Roman  Catholic  church,  and  a  number  of  picturesque  edifices 
situated  near  the  water's  edge.  The  rapids,  government  lock  for 
steamers,  and  the  railroad  bridge,  together  with  the  beautiful 
Ottawa  and  islands,  altogether  afford  a  magnificent  view,  al- 
most unrivaled  for  river  scenery.  A  few  miles  westward  may 
be  seen  the  hills  giving  the  name  to  the  Lake  of  the  Two 
Mountains. 

Isle  Perot,  about  two  miles  in  width,  is  next  passed  over  by 
the  upward  train,  and  another  branch  of  the  Ottawa  crossed, 
when  the  cars  stop  at  the 
Vaudreuil  Station,  situated  about  half  a  mile  below  the- 

village  of  the  same  name.    Here  a  lovely  view  is  obtained  of  the* 


f!*i 


270 


MONTRE\L    TO    TORONTO,    ETC. 


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Ottawa,  its  islands,  and  the  hills  of  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Moun- 
tains in  the  distance.  The  railroad  track,  on  leaving  the 
Ottawa,  runs  through  a  fertile  tract  of  country  for  several 
miles,  the  village  of  the  Cedars  being  passed  on  the  left,  some 
two  miles  distant. 

CoTEAU  Station  is  37  miles  from  Montreal  and  one  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  landing;  here  is  a  scattered  settlement 
of  French  Canadians,  numbering  about  600  inhabitants. 

Lancaster,  64  miles  from  Montreal,  is  situated  on  the 
north  shore  of  Lake  St.  Francis,  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence River.  Here  is  a  population  of  about  700  inhabitants, 
mostly  of  Scotch  descent. 

Cornwall,  68  miles  from  Montreal,  is  a  thriving  town,  situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  the  Long  Saut  Rapids.  It  contains  about 
2,500  inhabitants.  Here  the  trains  usually  meet,  and  the  pas- 
sengers are  furnished  refreshments.  This  is  also  a  convenient 
steamboat  landing,  where  the  Royal  Mail  Lino  of  steamers  stop 
daily  on  their  trips  np  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Dickinson's  Landings  77  miles ;  Aultsburg^  84  mJles ;  Wil- 
liamsburg, 92  miles ;  Matilda,  99  miles,  and  Prescott  Junction^ 
112  miles,  are  soon  reached  and  passed  by  the  ascending  train. 

The  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  from  Vaudreuil  to 
Brockville,  a  distance  of  100  miles,  runs  through  a  level  section 
of  country,  from  a  half  to  two  miles  distant  from  the  St.  Law- 
rence River,  which  is  only  seen  occasionally  from  the  passing 
train  of  cars. 

The  town  of  Prescott,  113  miles  from  Montreal,  and  60  miles 
from  Kingston,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  north  bank  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite  the  village  of  Ogdensburgh.  It  con- 
tains a  population  of  about  3,000  inhabitants.     {See  page  259.) 

The  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railroad,  64  miles  in  length,  ex- 
tends from  Prescott  to  Ottawa  City,  intersecting  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  On  leaving  Prescott  the  railroad  runs  through  a  level 
country  to  Kemptville,  23  miles,  and  thence  to  Ottawa  City, 
a  further  distance  of  30  miles.    This  is  now  the  most  speedy  and 


MONTREAL    TO    TORONTO,    KTO. 


271 


ifii 


!"  the  Two  Moun- 

on  leaving  the 

ntry  for  several 

on  the  left,  some 

al  and  one  anil  a 
tered  settlement 
tiabitants. 

situated  on  the 
L  of  the  St.  Law- 

700  inhabitants, 

riving  town,  situ- 

It  contains  about 

aeet,  and  the  pas- 

also  a  convenient 
e  of  steamers  stop 
rence. 

ff,  84  miles;  fVil- 
^rescott  Junction, 
e  ascending  train, 
com  Vaudreuil  to 
igh  a  level  section 
Tom  the  St.  Law- 

from  the  passing 

treal,  and  60  miles 
Ithe  north  bank  of 
isburgh.    It  con- 

{See page  2b9.) 

^les  in  length,  ex- 
jcting  the  Grand 
I  the  St.  Lawrence 
IS  through  a  level 
to  Ottawa  City, 
le  most  speedy  fM 


favorite  route  from  Montreal  to  the  Upper  Ottawa,  passengers* 
baggage  being  checked  through,  via  Prescott. 

Brockville,  125  miles  above  Montreiil,  and  208  miles  below 
Toronto,  is  one  of  the  most  important  stations  on  the  line  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  it  being  a  flourishing  town  of  about 
8,000  inhabitants.  The  Brockville  and  Ottawa  Railroad  will 
extend  from  this  place  to  Pembroke,  situated  100  miles  above 
Ottawa  City  The  railroad  route  from  Brockville  to  Kingston, 
48  miles,  continues  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario  to 
Cobourg,  90  miles  farther,  and  thence  to  Toronto,  70  miles ; 
being  a  total  distance  of  333  miles 

For  further  information  in  regard  to  Kingston,  Cobourg, 
Toronto,  etc.,  see  Trip  from  Hamilton  and  Toronto  to  Kings- 
ton, etc. 


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MONTREAL. 

The  City  of  Montreal,,  the  largest  and  chief  seat  of  com- 
merce of  British  America,  is  favorably  situated  at  the  head  of 
ship  navigation  on  t'.ie  left  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
here  about  two  miles  in  width.  It  lies  170  miles  above  Quebec 
and  350  miles  below  Toronto,  by  water,  in  N.  lat.  45°  30',  and 
W.  long.  73°  25'  from  Greenwich.  The  site,  although  not  so 
commanding  as  Quebec,  is  in  every  other  respect  superior, 
l^ing  at  the  foot  of  a  romantic  eminence  from  which  it  derives 
its  name,  called  Moxmt  Royal^  which  hill  rises  in  picturesque 
beauty,  about  one  mile  from  the  city,  to  the  height  of  650  feet, 
forming  a  prominent  object  in  the  picture  from  every  point  of 
view.  The  streets,  although  somewhat  irregular,  present  a  fine 
and  clean  appearance.  Notre  Dame  Street,  the  Broadway  of 
Montreal,  is  the  principal  promenade  and  seat  of  the  fashion- 
able retail  trade;  it  is  about  one  mile  in  length  and  has  many 
elegant  stores,  built  of  stone  in  the  most  durable  manner.  St. 
Paul  Street,  lying  nearer  the  water,  is  mostly  filled  with  whole- 
sale stores.  Great  St.  James  Street  is  a  wide  and  beautiful 
avenue,  where  are  located  most  of  the  banks  and  insurance 
offices;  together  with  hotels  and  other  substantial  buildings. 
McGill  Street  is  filled  with  stores  and  offices  of  diiFerent  kinds, 
running  across  the  streets  enumerated  above.  Water  Street, 
Commissioners*  Street,  and  Common  Street  extend  the  entire 
length  of  the  city,  facing  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  La 
Chine  Canal ;  at  times  presenting  a  pleasing  and  lively  appear- 
ance when  the  harbor  and  canal  are  filled  with  steamers  and 
sail  vessels  of  diflferent  kinds.  From  whatever  side  the  city  is 
approached,  either  by  water  or  land,  the  scene  is  one  of  mucli 
interest ;  if  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  Victoria  Bridge  and  islands 
first  attract  attention ;  then  the  splendid  towers  of  the  Cathedral, 
the  tall  spires  of  other  churches,  the  elegant  front  of  Bonsecours 


MONTREAL. 


273 


Market,  the  magnificent  stone  quay,  and  the  long  range  of  cut- 
stone  buildings  which  front  the  river,  form  at  once  a  tout  en- 
semble which  is  unbqualed. 

The  public  buildings  in  Montreal  are  numerous;  many  of 
thom  massiyo  and  costly  edifices.  The  most  noted  is  the  Roman 
Catholic  or  French  Cathedraly  situated  on  Notre  Dame  Street, 
fronting  the  Place  d'Armes ;  it  is  built  in  the  Gothic  style  of 
architecture,  255  feet  in  length  by  134  in  breadth ;  it  has  six  tow- 
ers, of  which  the  throe  belonging  to  the  main  front  are  220  feet 
in  height.  The  principal  window  is  64  feet  in  height  and  82 
in  breadth.  The  interior  has  several  desks  or  altars,  and 
is  capable  of  accommodating  from  6  to  7,000  persons,  who 
can  disperse  by  several  outlets.  *'  This  church  boasts  the 
possession  of  a  magnificent  set  of  bells,  one  of  which,  weigh- 
ing thii'teen  tons,  is  hung  in  the  western  tower,  and  is  the 
largest  bell  in  America.  Under  the  church,  the  entire  space 
is  occupied  by  a  cemetery — i^  which  the  more  wealthy  of  the 
Roman  Catholics  are  interred."  The  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice, 
adjoining  the  Cathedral,  is  a  substantial  stone  building,  at  pres- 
ent only  finished  to  the  extent  of  half  the  proposed  plan.  In 
this  building  is  transacted  all  the  parochial  business,  and  also 
the  secular  affairs  connected  with  the  very  valuable  property 
belonging  to  the  priests  of  the  seminary.  There  are  several 
other  Roman  Catholic  churches,  mostly  belonging  to  the  order 
of  St.  Sulpice,  to  the  members  of  which  Montreal  chiefly  owed 
its  foundation,  and  who  still  hold  the  seigniory  of  the  island  on 
which  it  stands. 

The  Protestant  churches,  consisting  of  the  Church  of  England 
or  Episcopal,  the  Church  of  Scotland  (Presbyterian),  the  Con- 
gregational, the  Baptist,  the  Methodist,  and  other  persuasions, 
are  numerous ;  Montreal  being  justly  celebrated  for  its  church 
edifices  and  church-going  people.  There  are  also  a  great  num- 
ber of  nunneries  and  charitable  institutions  in  the  city,  both 
under  Roman  Catholic  and  Protestant  management.  The  court- 
house and  prison  are  new  and  substantial  stone  buildings,  occu- 
pying the  site  of  the  former  college  of  the  Jesuits.    The  govern- 


B 


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^■i^ 


iU-i 


274 


MONTREAL. 


■!  ' 


U  H 

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ment  house,  barracks,  ordnance  office,  six  banks,  and  five 
market-houses,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  Bonsecours  Market, 
are  among  the  remaining  public  buildings.  Nelson's  Monumcwit. 
a  colossal  statue  of  the  hero  ^ .  the  Nile,  is  placed  on  a  Doric 
column,  the  pedestal  of  which  lias  bas-reliefs  representing  naval 
actions.  McGill  College  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain,  and  is  richly  endowed.  Here  are  also  a  Baptist 
college  and  two  Roman  Catholic  colleges,  besides  numerous 
other  educational  institutions.  Montreal  has  a  theater-royal, 
an  exchange  building,  a  penitentiary,  a  house  of  industry,  a 
hospital,  water  works,  gas  works,  a  custom-house,  a  board  of 
trade,  scientific  institutions,  religious  and  benevolent  institu- 
tions, and  numerous  well-kept  hotels. 

The  faTorable  position  of  Montreal  for  trade  and  commerce, 
both  foreign  and  domestic,  makes  it  a  great  thoroughfare  for 
men  of  business,  as  well  as  of  the  pleasure-seeking  community. 
The  facilities  afforded  by  means  of  the  St,  Lawrence  and  Ot- 
tawa rivers,  in  connection  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
other  railroads,  Open  a  ready  communication,  not  only  with  all 
parts  of  Canada,  but  with  Portland,  Me.,  Boston,  and  the  city 
of  New  York ;  the  latter  city  being  only  400  miles  distant,  and 
connected  during  the  season  of  navigation  by  two  popular  lines 
of  travel.  The  harbor^  though  not  large,  is  safe  and  conven- 
ient ;  vessels  drawing  15  feet  may  lie  close  to  the  quay,  which 
is  a  most  substantial  stone  structure  of  upward  one  mile  in 
length.  The  La  Chine  Canal ^  nine  miles  long,  admits  steam- 
ers of  a  large  size  on  their  upward  trips,  they  usually  running 
the  Rapids  on  their  downward  trips  from  the  Lakes  above  and 
the  Ottawa  River.  Besides  steamers  of  a  large  class  running 
to  Quebec,  steamships  run  regularly,  during  the  season  of  na\'i- 
gation,  between  Montreal  and  Liverpool,  making  quick  and 
rofitable  voyages.  The  trade  through  Lake  Champlain,  liiostlv 
by  means  of  the  Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence  Railroad^  44 
miles  in  length,  is  immense — so  much  so  es  to  require  a  ship 
canal  from  Caughanawa,  or  opposite  Montrepl,  to  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  Richelieu  River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Chpmplain. 


MONTR  K  A  L. 


275 


Tbe  Montreal  and  Plattshurgh  Railroad^  62  miles  in  length, 
umting  with  the  La  Chine  Railroad,  forms  a  direct  line  of  travel 
to  Plattsburgh,  situated  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain. 
The  Montreal  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  under  construction,  will 
add  greatly  to  the  advantage  of  Montreal. 

The  Victoria  Bridge,  now  erecting  across  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  immediately  above  the  city,  when  completed,  will  form 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  age ;  it  is  to  cross  the  river  from 
Point  St.  Charles  to  thv^  south  shore,  a  total  length  of  10,284 
feet,  or  Lbout  50  yards  less  than  two  miles.  It  is  to  be  built 
on  the  tubular  principle,  and  will  have  a  track  for  railroad  cars 
in  the  center,  while  on  the  outside  of  the  tube  there  will  be  a 
balcony  on  each  side,  with  a  footpath  for  passengers.  The 
bridge  will  rest  on  24  piors  and  two  abutments  of  limestone 
masonry ;  the  center  span  being  330  feet  long,  and  00  feet  high 
from  summer  water-le 'el,  descending  at  either  end  at  the  rate 
of  one  in  130.  It  io  in  every  respect  to  be  built  in  the  most 
substantial  manner,  and,  when  completed,  will  cost  the  enor- 
mous sum  of  £  1 .250 ,000  sterling,  or  $0,250,000.  The  contents 
of  the  masonry  will  be  3,000,000  of  cubic  feet.  The  weight  of 
iron  in  the  tubes  8,000  tons.  The  following  are  the  dimensions 
of  tube  through  which  the  trains  pass  in  the  middle  span,  viz.  : 
22  feet  high,  16  feet  wide ;  at  the  extreme  ends,  19  feet  high, 
16  feet  wide.  This  gigantic  struc  ture  is  in  rapid  progress  of 
construction,  ard,  it  is  understood,  will  be  completed  in  1859, 
or  early  in  1 J60. 

The  drives  and  inviting  excursions  about  Montreal  are  nu- 
merous, and  highly  appreciated  by  visitors  from  more  southern 
climes.  The  foremost  stands  the  excursion  around  the  mount- 
ain, which  stands  as  a  beacon  to  point  out  the  true  position  of 
the  city  on  nearing  or  departing  from  this  romantic  city.  Other 
drives  up  or  down  the  St.  LawrcLce,  or  on  almost  any  part  of 
the  fertile  island  of  Montreal,  are  attended  with  pleasure  and 
delightful  emotions.  "  Besides  these  excursions,  the  tourist 
^  find  his  time  well  repaid  by  a  visit  to  the  Saut-au-Recol- 
lect,  which  is  a  series  of  Rapids  at  the  northern  side  of  tho 


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GRAND    TRUNK    RAILWAY 


island,  on  a  branch  of  the  Ottawa  called  La  Riviere  des  Prairies. 
Here,  besides  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  he  may  see  the  rafts 
from  the  Ottawa  making  the  descent — an  exciting  exploit  botli 
to  the  spectators  and  hardy  crews,  though  from  the  rarity  of 
accidents  we  must  conclude  that  the  skill  of  the  voyageurs  has 
taught  them  to  avoid  any  real  danger." 

Population  of  Montreal — 1852. 

Males 27,580    Other  countries 1,457 

Females 30,129 

Roman  Catholics 41,466 

Total  population 57,716    Protestants 16,196 

French  Canadians 26,020    Number  of  houses 7,420 

British  Canadians 12,494  "         families  . . .     9,990 

English,  Irish,  &  Scotch  17,774 


GRAND   TSUNK  RAILWAY  OF   CANADA. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  the  greatest  scheme  of  its 
kind  in  America,  embraces  in  its  ramifications  the  construction 
of  a  continuous  line  of  railway  from  Trois  Pistoles,  C.  E.,  about 
160  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river  St. 
Lawrence,  the  point  at  which  a  junction  with  the  proposed  Hal- 
ifax Railway  is  looked  forward  ta— and  Port  Sarnia,  C.  W.,  on 
Lake  Huron,  a  distance  of  upward  of  800  miles— also  a  branch 
line  of  50  mile?  in  length,  from  Belleville  to  Peterborough,  C.  W. 
— and  the  leasing  of  the  railroad  then  already  built  between 
Montreal  and  Portland,  Me.,  so  that  the  products  of  the  west- 
ern points  of  the  Province  might  be  conveyed  through  Canada 
to  the  Atlantic  seaboard,  without  break  of  guage  or  bulk.  The 
total  length  of  unbroken  railway  communication  which  will 
thus  be  obtained,  when  the  St.  Lawrence  River  is  spanned  by 
the  Victoria  Bridge,  a  structure  unequaled  in  the  history  of 
engineering,  either  in  size  or  in  massive  proportions — is  up- 
ward of  1 ,100  miles.  The  original  capital  of  the  company  Tvas 
£9,500,000,  but  this  being  found  insuflBcient,  it  has  been  de- 
termined to  increase  this  amount  to  £12,000,000  sterling,  or 
$60,000,000.  Of  this  sum  the  Province  has  an  interest  in  the 
undertaking,  in  the  shape  of  a  guaranty,  to  an  amount  of  up- 
ward of  £3,000,000  sterUng,  or  $15,000,000.  Of  the  works 
proposed,  however^  it  was  found  necessary,  from  several  causes. 


GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY. 


277 


to  place  in  abeyance  the  prosecution  of  three  different  sections 
of  tlie  work,  viz.,  the  distance  between  St.  Thomas  to  Trois  Pis- 
toles, 100  miles ;  from  Bellev'  le  to  Peterborough,  60  miles;  and 
from  St.  Mary's  to  Sarnia,  68  miles.  But  these  sections  will 
doubtless  ere  long  be  proceeded  with ;  in  the  first  case,  becauf^o 
the  Lower  Provinces  in  all  probability,  assisted  by  the  Imperial 
Government,  will  complete  their  railway  communication  to 
Trois  Pistoles,  in  order  to  connect  it  with  the  Canadian  railway 
jystera ;  and  in  the  latter  two  cases,  simply  because  the  traffic 
of  the  country  will  very  speedily  demand  the  construction  of 
these  lines. 

With  these  curtailments,  and  they  are  but  temporary,  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  is  now  composed  of  the  following  sec- 
tions, viz. : 

Montreal  to  Portland 202  miles. 

Richmond  to  Port  Levi,  opposite  Quebec,  St.  Thomas.  137      " 

Montreal  to  Toronto 333      ** 

Toronto  to  Stratford 88      ♦♦ 

Making  a  total  mileage  of 850  miles. 

The  works  throughout  the  whole  of  his  great  length  of 
line  have  been  pronounced  by  competent  authorities,  both  En- 
glish and  American,  to  be  altogether  unequaled  by  any  rail- 
way on  this  continent,  and  reflect  much  credit,  not  only  on  the 
engineer  of  the  company,  but  also  on  the  several  agents  of  the 
contractors.  On  an  average,  there  is  a  station  to  every  six 
I  miles,  two  men  to  every  three  miles,  and  a  locomotive  to  every 
four  miles. 

Apart  from  the  through  travel  between  the  East  and  the 
I  West,  which  must  be  very  large,  the  juncti(Jns  between  other 
railways  and  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  throughout  the  Prov- 
ince are  very  numerous,  and  will  provide  a  heavy  trafi&c,  both 
of  passengers  and  freight. 


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TRIP  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  OTTAWA  CITY  AND  TUE 
UPPER  OTTAWA  RIVEIL 


Tourists  who  design  to  visit  the  Ottawa  River,  and  view  ito 
varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  should  leave  Montreal  by  steamer, 
or  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway y  in  the  morning  for  St.  Anne's, 
21  miles ;  there  taking  a  steamer  for  Ottawa  City,  90  miles  far- 
ther ;  or  if  desired,  continue  the  railroad  route  to  Prescott,  1 13 
miles  from  Montreal,  and  proceed  by  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Rail- 
road. The  La  Chine  Railroad  also  conveys  passengers  to  La 
Chine,  nine  miles,  from  whence  steamers  depart  daily  for  Ot- 
tawa City. 

At  St.  Annk's,  14  miles  above  La  Chine,  the  steamer  passes 
through  a  lock  45  feet  wide  and  180  feet  long.  Here  is  a  suc- 
cession of  rapids  in  the  river,  and  several  small  islands.  The 
village  is  handsomely  situated  on  the  southwest  end  of  the  isl- 
and of  Montreal,  and  is  the  place  where  the  poet  Moore  located 
the  scene  of  his  admired  Canadian  Boat  Song* 

CANADIAN  BOAT  SONG. 

BY   THOMAS  MOORB. 

Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 
Our  voices  keep  tune  and  our  oars  keep  time ; 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim, 
WeUl  sing  at  St.  Anne^s  our  ))artlng  hymn. 
Row,  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast, 
The  Rapids  are  near  and  the  daylighrs  past. 

Why  should  we  yet  our  sail  unfViTl  ? 

There  is  not  a  breatli  the  blue  wave  to  curl ; 

But  when  the  wind  blows  off  the  shore, 

Oh !  sweetly  we'll  rest  ou  •  weary  oar. 

Blow,  breezes,  blow,  \he  stream  runs  fast, 
The  Rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight's  past. 

♦  The  voyageurSy  in  passing  the  Rapids  of  St.  Anne,  were  formerly 
obliged  to  take  out  a  part,  if  not  the  whole,  of  their  lading,  owing  to  the 
small  depth  of  water  nere  afforded.  It  is  from  this  village  that  the  Ca- 
nadians consider  they  take  their  departure  on  ascending  the  Ottawa,  as  it 
possesses  the  last  church  on  the  island  of  Montreal,  which  ia  dedicated  to 
the  tutelar  saint  of  toyageurs. 


CITY  AND  THE 


MONTREAL    TO    OTTAWA    CITY.  279 

Ottawa's  tiflo  !  thin  tromhlinff  moon 

Shall  RPO  US  float  ovor  thy  «nr)yf»'i»  noon. 

Saint  of  thin  Rreen  Isle  !  htar  our  prayers, 

Oh  !  f^rant  us  cool  heavens  an<l  fuvorlnfj^  airs. 
IJlow,  breezes,  blow;  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  Rapids  are  near  and  tlio  daylight's  past 

Two  miles  west  of  St.  Annc'd  commences  the  Lake  of  the 
Tv^o  Movnfainsj  being  an  expansion  of  the  Ottawa,  about  ten 
miles  long  and  eight  miles  wide.  Here  a  branch  of  the  river 
diverges  toward  the  northeast,  forming  the  west  boundary  of 
the  island  of  Montreal.  Two  hills  to  the  north,  elevated  400 
or  500  feet  above  the  river  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  give 
the  name  to  this  body  of  water. 

The  Indian  Village  of  the  Two  Mountains  is  situated  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Ottawa,  about  25  miles  west  of  La  Chine. 
Here  reside  the  remnants  of  two  tribes,  the  Mohawks  and  Al- 
gonquins.  The  settlements  are  divided  by  a  Roman  Catholic 
church,  standing  near  the  river  side.  On  the  hill  toward  the 
north  are  situated  three  or  four  chapels.  The  highest  summit 
of  the  hill  or  mountain,  one  or  two  miles  distant,  is  called  Cal- 
vary, and  is  visited  by  the  Indians  and  whites  on  certain  re- 
ligious festivals  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  Here  the  river 
contracts  in  width  to  about  half  a  mile,  for  a  distance  of  one 
mile,  when  it  again  expands,  forming  the  Upper  Lake  of  the 
Two  Mountains.  About  nine  miles  farther  west  the  river 
again  contracts  to  half  a  mile  in  width. 

On  the  south  is  passed  the  settlement  of  Regaud,  and  a 
mountain  of  the  same  name. 

Carillon,  eight  miles  fn'ther,  is  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Ottawa.  Here  are  rapids  in  the  river,  and  the  navigation  by 
steamboat  is  continued  by  means  of  a  lock  and  canal,  12  miles 
in  length. 

At  Point  Fortune,  opposite  Carillon,  passengers  going  to 
the  Caledonia  Springs  usually  take  a  stage  for  L'Original,  a 
distance  of  18  miles,  along  the  south  bank  of  the  Ottawa, 
which  affords  some  picturesque  views. 

At  Grenvii.i.e,  12  miles  from  Carillon,  navigation  is  resumed 
oa  the  Ottawa  River,  for  a  further  distance  of  58  miles. 


280 


MONTREAL    TO    OTTAWA    CITT 


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The  KiDEAu  Falls  (the  Curtain),  so  called  from  their  re- 
semblance to  drapery,  is  formed  by  the  waters  of  the  Rideau 
Riyer  precipitating  itself  into  the  Ottawa,  a  short  distance  be- 
low the  c'ty  of  Ottawa.  This  is  a  beautiful  fall  of  30  feet,  and 
attracts  much  notice,  being  seen  to  advantage  from  the  stec^mer 
ascending  the  0>*^^tawa. 

Chaudiere  Falls  (the  Boiling  Po/),  which  are  second  only 
to  those  of  Niagara  in  grandeur  and  magnificence,  are  on  the 
Ottawa,  immediately  above  the  city.  These  falls,  in  connection 
witL  the  surrounding  scenery,  render  this  section  of  Canada 
very  attractive  tO  tourists  seeking  health  or  pleasure. 

The  City  of  Ottavjta,  C.  W.,  formerly  called  By  town  ^  occu- 
pies a  most  romantic  position  on  the  southwest  side  of  Ottawa 
River,  being  120  miles  distant  from  Montreal,  and  54  from 
Prescott  by  railway.  It  is  in  a  naturally  strong  situation,  and 
could  be  easily  rendered  almost  impregnable.  The  city  is 
divided  into  two  parts,  like  Quebec,  known  as  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Towns,  which  are  about  half  a  mile  apart.  The  Bideau 
Canal  commences  here,  anr'  is  spanned  by  a  handsome  stone 
bridge,  forming  part  of  the  btreet  which  connects  the  two  por- 
tions of  the  town,  and  it  is  also  connected  with  Hull,  on  the 
Lower  Canada  side  of  the  river,  by  a  fine  suspension  bridge. 

The  city  is  justly  celebrated  as  being  a  great  mart  for  lum- 
ber, in  which  the  Ottawa  country  abounds.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood is  found  beautiful  pale-gray  limestone,  "f  which  material 
many  of  the  edifices  are  constructed,  giving  a  handsome  and 
solid  i»]t;;;>'^arance  to  the  place ;  the  streets  have  been  laid  out 
with  great  regularity,  and  are  very  wide.  Barrack  Hill,  a 
commanding  site,  is  retained  by  the  government,  which,  if 
judiciously  improved,  the  inhabitants  might  have  beautiful 
grounds  for  purposes  of  health  and  recreation.  Here  are  situ- 
ated the  county  buildings,  ten  churches  of  different  denomina- 
tions, four  or  five  banking-houses,  several  well-kept  hotels, 
together  with  numerous  stores  and  extensive  grist-mills,  saw* 
mills,  and  other  manufacturing  establishments. 

The  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railway,  64  miles  in  length,  te> 


UPPER    OTTAWA   RIVER. 


281 


jninates  at  Prescott,  situated  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  di- 
rectly opposite  Ogdensburgh.  No  other  road  of  its  length  in 
America  possesses  greater  advantages  than  this  railway,  if 
rightly  turned  to  account,  pointing  as  it  does  to  the  State  and 
city  of  New  York. 

Stages  and  Steamboats  run  daily  from  Ottawa  City  to  dif- 
ferent places  on  the  river  above  the  ci  y,  affording  romantic 
excursions  during  the  summer  and  autumn  months. 

The  Union  Line  of  steamers  runs  from  Aylmer,  nine  miles 
above  Ottawa,  to  Joachin,  150  miles  above  the  city.  The  pro- 
prietors have  three  iron  steamers,  with  fifty-horse-power  engines : 
one  running  from  Aylmer  to  Chatts;  one  from  Amprior  to 
Portage  Du  Fort,  and  one  from  Portage  I>u  Fort  to  Joachin. 
These  boats  are  not  sufficient  to  do  the  business  that  is  now 
offered ;  and  it  is  a  rem&rkable  fact,  that  while  goods  are  car- 
ried in  winter  on  sleighs  over  this  route  for  50  cents  per  100 
pounds,  the  steamboat  charge  is  $1  25. 


'    -'Mi 
■  ■.  ■it 


TILLAGES  ON  THE  UPPER  OTTAWA  EIVER. 

Aylmer,  nine  miles  above  the  city  on  the  Lower  Canada 
side,  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Chaudiere  Lake,  through  which 
the  river  flows,  has  about  1,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  shire  town 
of  Ottawa  County.  Is  at  the  foot  of  steamboat  navigation 
above  the  city.  There  is  a  good  McAdam  road  from  the  city  to 
Aylmer. 

FiTZROY  and  Chatts — these  villages  are  connected,  and  situ- 
ated 32  miles  above  the  city,  with  about  600  inhabitants ;  the 
river  at  this  place  has  a  fall  of  52J  feet. 

Amprior,  40  miles  above  the  city.  This  place  has  sprung 
into  existence  within  the  last  two  years ;  has  now  60  dwellings, 
and  40  more  under  contract.  A  railroad  is  now  under  contract 
from  Ottawa  City  to  Amprior,  to  be  completed  in  1858,  and  I 
understand  that  this  is  also  the  point  where  the  Brockville  and 
Pembroke  Railroad  comes  to  the  river.  The  river  has  a  fall 
here  of  twelve  feet.    To  hear  the  descriptions  which  are  given 

24* 


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282 


UPPER    OTTAWA    RIVER. 


of  this  section  of  the  country,  one  would  think  that  it  was  the 
Garden  of  Eden,  and  that  it  was  soon  to  be  reclaimed.    Those  I 
engaged  in  building  up  Amprior,  predict  that  it  is  soon  to 
become  the  Chicago  of  Canada. 

Portage  Du  Fort  is  60  miles  above  Ottawa  City.  The 
river  here  has  a  fall  of  twelve  feet,  affording  good  water-power. 

Pembroke,  100  miles  above  the  city,  is  the  next  place  on  the 
river,  and  is  a  point  of  great  importance. 

The  Brockville  and  Ottawa  Railroad^  when  completed,  will 
terminate  at  this  place,  and  afford  great  facilities  to  the  settle- 
ments on  the  Upper  Ottawa  River  and  its  tributaries. 


***'M 


OTTAWA   RIYER. 


Copied  from  the  Canadian  Tourist. 

"  This  river,  and  the  vast  fertile  territory  which  it  drains, 
has  hitherto  been,  in  a  great  measure,  abandoned  to  the  oper- 
ations of  the  lumberman,  and  the  comparatively  few  farmers 
who  have  followed  his  steps ;  but,  latterly,  its  capabilities  as 
an  agricultural  country  have  gradually  attracted  a  greater 
degree  of  attention,  which  the  proposal  of  connecting  its  waters 
with  Lake  Huron  and  the  Far  West  will  greatly  increase.  Of 
the  magnitude  of  the  river,  the  riches  of  its  banks,  and  the 
beauty  of  the  scenery,  we  can  not  better  speak  than  by  mak- 
ing use  of  the  excellent  Report  lately  made  by  a  Committee  of 
the  Canadian  House  of  Assembly  on  Railways : 

"  '  The  length  of  the  course  of  the  Ottawa  River  is  about  780 
miles.  From  its  source  it  bends  in  a  southwest  course,  and 
after  receiving  several  tributaries  from  the  height  of  land  sep- 
arating its  waters  from  the  Hudson  Bay,  it  enters  Lake  Temis- 
camiiig.  From  its  entrance  into  this  lake  downward  the  course 
of  the  Ottawa  has  been  surveyed,  and  is  well  known. 

" '  At  the  head  of  the  lake  the  Blanche  River  falls  in,  coming 
about  ninety  miles  from  the  north.  Thirty-four  miles  farther 
down  the  lake  it  receives  the  Montreal  River,  coming  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles  from  the  northwest.  Six  miles  lower 
down  on  the  east,  or  Lower  Canada  bank,  it  receives  the  Kee- 
pawa-sippi,  a  large  river  which  has  its  origin  in  a  lake  of  great 
size,  hitherto  but  partially  explored,  and  known  as  Lake  Kce- 
pawa.  This  lake  is  connected  with  another  chain  of  irregularly 
shaped  lakes,  from  one  of  which  proceeds  the  River  dn  Moine, 
which  enters  the  Ottawa  about  a  hun clrc  1  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Keepawa-sippi. 

" '  From  the  Long  Sant  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Temiscaraing, 
two  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles  above  the  city  of  Ottawa, 
and  three  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ot- 
tawa, down  to  Deux  Joachim  Rapids,  at  the  head  of  the  Deep 
River,  thsit  is,  for  eighty-nine  miles,  the  Ottawa,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  seventeen  miles  below  the  Long  Saut,  and  some  other 
intervals,  is  not  at  present  navigable,  except  for  canoes.  Be- 
sides other  tributaries  in  the  interval,  at  a  hundred  and  ninety- 
seven  miles  from  Bytown,  now  called  Ottawa,  it  receives  on  the 
west  Bide  the  Mattawan,  which  is  the  highway  for  canoes  going 
to  Lake  Huron  by  Lake  Nippissing.    From  the  Mattawan  the 


I 


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284 


OTTAWA    RIVER. 


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Ottawa  flows  east  by  sonth  to  the  head  of  Deep  River  Reach, 
nine  miles  above  which  it  receives  the  River  du  Moine  from  tlie 
north. 

"  '  From  the  head  of  Deep  River,  as  this  part  of  the  Ottawa 
is  called,  to  the  foot  of  Upper  Allumettes  Lake,  two  miles  below 
the  village  of  Pembroke,  is  an  uninterrupted  reach  of  navigable 
water,  forty-three  miles  in  length.  The  general  direction  of 
the  river  in  this  part  is  southeast.  The  mountains  along  the 
north  side  of  Deep  River  are  upward  of  a  thousand  feet  iu 
height,  and  the  many  wooded  islands  of  Allumettes  Lake  ren- 
der the  scenery  of  this  part  of  the  Ottawa  magnificent  and  ex- 
ceedingly picturesque — far  surpassing  the  celebrated  Lake  of 
the  Thousand  Islands  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

**  •  Passing  the  short  rapid  of  Allumettes,  and  turning  north- 
ward round  the  lower  end  of  Allumettes  Island,  which  is  four- 
teen miles  long  and  eight  at  its  greatest  width,  and  turning 
down  southeast  through  Coulonge  Lake,  and  passing  behind  the 
nearly  similar  islands  of  Calumet  to  the  head  of  Calumet  Falls, 
the  Ottawa  presents,  with  the  exception  of  one  slight  rapid,  a 
reach  of  fifty  miles  of  navigable  water.  The  mountains  on  the 
north  side  of  Coulonge  Lake,  which  rise  apparently  to  the 
height  of  fifteen  hundrc  i  feet,  add  a  degree  of  grandeur  to  the 
scenery,  which  is  in  other  respects  beautiful  and  varied.  In 
the  Upper  Allumettes  Lake,  a  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  from 
Ottawa,  the  river  receives  from  the  west  the  Petawawee,  one  of 
its  largest  tributaries.  This  river  is  a  hundred  and  forty  miles 
in  length,  and  drains  an  area  of  two  thousand  two  hundred 
square  miles.  At  Pembroke,  nine  miles  lower  down  on  the 
same  side,  an  inferior  stream,  the  Indian  River,  also  empties 
itself  into  the  Ottawa. 

"  *  At  the  head  of  Lake  Coulonge  the  Ottawa  receives  from 
the  north  the  Black  River,  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  in  length, 
draining  an  area  of  eleven  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  and  nine 
miles  lower  on  the  same  side  the  river  Coulonge,  which  is  prob- 
ably a  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length,  with  a  valley  of  eight- 
een hundred  square  miles. 

*' '  From  the  head  of  the  Calumet  Falls  to  Portage  du  Fort, 
the  head  of  the  steamboat  navigation,  a  distance  of  eight  miles, 
are  impassable  rapids.  Fifty  miles  above  the  city,  the  Ottawa 
receives  on  the  west  the  Bonnechere,  a  hundred  and  ten  miles 
in  length,  draining  an  area  of  nine  hundred  and  eighty  miles. 
Eleven  miles  lower  it  receives  the  Madawaska,  one  of  its  great 
feeders,  a  river  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  in  length,  and  drain- 
ing four  thousand  one  hundred  square  miles. 

it « Thirt;'-seven  miles  above  Ottawa  there  is  an  interrupiion 
in  the  navigation,  caused  by  three  miles  of  rapids  and  falls,  to 
pass  which  a  railroad  has  been  made.    At  the  foot  of  the  rap- 


i 


OTTAWA    RIVER. 


285 


ids  the  Ottawa  divides  among  islands  into  numerous  channels, 
presenting  a  most  imposing  array  of  separate  falls. 

"  •  Six  miles  above  Ottawa  begin  the  rapids  terminating  in  the 
Ottawa  Chaudihre  Falls,  which,  inferior  in  impressive  grandeur 
to  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  are,  perhaps,  more  permanently  inter- 
esting, as  presenting  greater  variety.  The  greatest  height  of 
Chaudiere  Falls  is  about  forty  feet.  Arrayed  in  every  imagin- 
able variety  of  form — in  vast,  dark  masses,  in  graceful  cas- 
cades, or  in  tumbling  spray — they  have  been  well  described  as 
a  hundred  rivers  struggling  for  a  passage.  Not  the  least  inter- 
esting feature  which  they  present  is  the  Lost  Chaudiere,  where 
a  body  of  water,  greater  in  volume  than  the  Thames  at  London, 
is  quietly  sucked  down,  and  disappears  under  ground. 

" '  At  the  city  of  Ottawa  the  river  receives  the  Rideau  from 
the  west,  running  a  course  of  a  hundred  and  sixteen  miles,  and 
draining  an  area  of  thirteen  hundred  and  fifty  square  miles.' 

"The  city  of  Ottawa  is,  perhaps,  situated  more  pictur- 
esquely than  any  other  in  North  America,  with  the  exception 
of  Quebec.  The  view  from  the  Barrack  Hill — embracing,  as  it 
does,  in  one  coup  iTceil,  the  magnificent  Falls  of  the  Chaudiere, 
with  its  clouds  of  snowy  spray,  generally  spanned  by  a  bril- 
liant rainbow ;  the  Suspension  Bridge  uniting  Upper  and  Lower 
Canada ;  the  river  above  the  great  Falls,  studded  with  pretty  . 
¥ooded  islands,  and  the  distant  purple  mountains,  which  divide 
the  waters  of  the  Gatineau  from  those  of  the  Ottawa — is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  in  the  world. 

"  The  city,  now  containing  about  fourteen  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, sprung  up,  about  thirty  years  ago,  from  a  collection  of 
shanties  inhabited  by  the  laborers  and  artificers  employed  bj 
the  Royal  Engineers  to  construct  the  Rideau  Canal.  This 
canal  (terminating  at  Kingston)  was  intended  by  the  govern- 
ment of  England  to  be  a  means  of  communication  between  the 
Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Lake?,  in  case  the  communication 
on  the  front  should  be  interrupted.  The  canal  was  designed  by 
Colonel  By,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  and  the  present  city  of 
Ottawa  was  named  Bytown  in  memory  of  its  founder,  until, 
about  two  years  ago,  the  inhabitants  petitioned  the  Provincial 
Parliament  to  change  the  name. 

"  The  canal  is  a  splendid  specimen  of  engineering  skill,  and 
the  masonry  of  the  numerous  locks  is  generally  admired  for  its 
finish  and  solidity.  Eight  of  these  locks  rise  one  above  another 
directly  in  the  center  of  the  city,  the  canal  being  crossed  by  a 
handsome  stone  bridge  just  above  them.  The  canal,  in  fact, 
divides  the  city  into  two  parts,  the  Upper  and  Lower.  A  large 
pirt  of  the  Upper  Town  is  comprised  in  what  is  called  the  Bar- 
rack Hill,  on  which  is  a  small  barracks  for  troops,  and  some 
storehouses,  the  property  of  the  Imperial  Government;  there 


''■■■  n 


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m 

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if''  4 

4*il\  -2, 

:  \S 

li 


^  ~- 


286 


OTTAWA    RIVEK. 


,i  ^^ 


f  t 


'i 


■  t^x'i 


is  here  a  parade-ground  of  several  acres,  and  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  from  which  is  to  be  seen  the  beautiful  view  which  we 
spoke  of  before,  is  one  of  the  finest  promenades  in  the  world. 
A  few  very  simple  fortifications  on .  this  hill  would  make  the 
c  iy  of  Ottava  almost  as  impregnable  as  Quebec. 

*'  Within  the  last  few  years  a  small  hamlet  has  sprung  cp 
near  the  Suspension  Bridge,  in  consequence  of  the  abundam 
water-power  existing  ther8>  of  which  several  enterprising  per- 
sons  have  availed  themselves  to  erect  saw- mills.  There  is  also 
here  a  very  large  iron  foundry  and  machine  manufactory. 

"  Here  also  are  the  slides,  erected  by  government,  for  the 
passage  of  timber,  in  order  to  avoid  the  great  fall,  over  which 
the  pieces  of  timber  used  to  be  precipitated  singly,  to  be  again 
collected  below  at  a  great  trouble  and  loss.  Throughout  the 
whole  summer,  from  mornijig  to  night,  the  *  cribs'  of  timber, 
each  manned  by  three  or  four  hardy  raftsmen,  may  be  seen 
darting  down  these  slides ;  while  from  the  lofty  summit  of  the 
Barrack  Hill  the  huge  rafts,  gay  with  bright  streamers  floating 
from  their  many  masts,  may  be  seen  on  the  smooth,  dark  bosom 
of  the  river,  the  golden-colored  timber  flashing  in  the  gun- 
beams. 

*'  In  the  Lower  ToTm  are  the  principal  m3rcantile  establish- 
ments, the  court-house  and  jail,  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
the  Bishop's  Palace ;  a  nuncery,  to  wbich  the  General  Hospital 
is  attached,  and  a  Roman  Catholic  college ;  the  Protestant  hos- 
pital, the  Terminus  of  the  Prescott  and  Ottawa  Railway,  and 
the  steamboat  wharf.  Among  the  objects  well  worth  seeing  m 
this  part  of  the  town  is  a  steam  saw-mill,  of  great  size,  recently 
erected  by  an  enterprising  citizen.  In  Central  Ottawa  are  the 
town-hall,  the  post-office,  telegraph  office  and  news-room,  to 
which  are  attached  a  library  and  museum,  the  latter  contain- 
ing some  very  interesting  geological  specimens.  In  Upper  Ot- 
tawa are  the  Episcopal  church  and  the  office  at  which  all  thej 
business  connected  with  timber  cut  on  the  lands  of  the  Crown 
is  transacted.  The  banks  of  Upper  Canada,  British  North 
America,  Montreal,  and  Quebec  have  agencies  in  the  city. 

'*  During  the  summer  months  steamers  run  dally  on  the  river 
between  Ottawa  and  Montreal,  and  between  Ottawa  and  Kings- 
ton, by  the  way  of  Rideau  Canal.  A  railway  train  loaves  t*'e| 
city  every  day  for  Prescott,  where  those  passengers  who  inten(i| 
to  go  to  Montreal  change  into  the  cars  of  the  Grand  Trunk  line,j 
and  so  reach  Montreal  by  railway. 

*'  Travelers  who  wish  to  proceed  farther  up  the  river  can  takel 
a  carriage  or  omnibus  for  Aylmer,  a  pretty  village  about  nine 
miles  from  Ottawa,  between  which  place  and  Aylmer  there  is 
an  excellent  turnpike  road,  where  they  will  find  a  steamer 
which  takes  them  to  the  Chatts ;  from  this  there  is  a  railway 


OTTAWA    RIVER. 


287 


about  two  miles;  they  then  proceed  by  another  steamer  to 
Portage  du  Fort ;  here  wagons  are  used  for  a  short  distance. 
and  another  8te»\mer  takes  them  to  Pembroke,  and  again  an- 
other from  that  point  to  Deux  Joachim,  where  for  the  present 
navigation  ceases  for  any  thing  larger  than  a  canoe  A  rail- 
road is  under  construction,  extending  from  Pembroke  to  Brock- 
ville,  situated  on  the  St.  Lawrence  Rivar. 

"  Immediately  below  the  city  of  Ottawa  the  river  Rideau  dis- 
charges into  the  Ottawa,  falling  gently  over  the  edge  of  a  lime- 
stone precipice  like  a  beautifully  transparent  '  curtain^  of 
water,  from  which  resemblance  its  name  has  been  derived  ;  the 
fall  is  divided  into  two  portions  by  a  small  rocky  island,  which 
adds  greatly  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  scene.  The  Rideau 
Falls  are  best  seen  from  a  boat. 

"  A  mile  lower  it  receives  from  the  north  its  greatest  tribu- 
tary, the  Gatincau,  which,  with  a  course  probably  of  four  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  drains  an  area  of  twelve  thousand  square 
miles.  For  about  two  hundred  miles  the  upper  course  of  this 
river  is  in  the  unknown  northern  country.  At  the  farthest 
point  surveyed,  two  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  from  its 
mouth,  the  Gatineau  is  still  a  noble  stream,  a  thousand  feet 
wide,  diminished  in  depth,  but  not  in  width. 

"Eighteen  miles  lower  down  the  Riviere  au  Li^vre  enters 
from  the  north,  after  ri-tming  a  course  of  two  hundred  and 
sixty  miles  in  length,  and  draining  an  area  of  four  thousand 
one  hundred  miles.  Fifteen  miles  below  it  the  Ottawa  receives 
the  North  and  South  Nation  rivers  on  cither  side,  the  former 
ninety-five  and  the  latter  a  hundred  miles  in  length.  Twenty- 
two  miles  farther  the  river  Rouge,  ninety  miles  long,  enters 
from  the  north.  Twenty-one  miles  lower  the  Riviere  du  Nord, 
a  hundred  and  sixty  miles  in  length,  comes  in  on  the  same  side, 
and  lastly,  just  above  its  mouth,  it  receives  the  river  Assump- 
tion, which  has  a  course  of  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles. 

"  From  Ottawa  the  river  is  navigable  to  Grenville,  a  distance 
of  fifty-eight  miles,  where  the  rapids  that  occur  for  twelve  miles 
are  avoided  by  a  succession  of  canals.  Twenty-three  miles 
lower,  at  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Ottawa,  a  single  lock,  to 
avoid  a  slight  rapid  (St.  Anne's  Rapid),  gives  a  passage  into 
Lake  St.  Louis,  an  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Montreal. 

"  The  remaining  half  of  the  Ottawa's  waters  find  their  way 
to  the  St.  Lawrence,  by  passing  in  two  channels  behind  the 
jlsland  of  Montreal  and  the  Isle  Jesus,  in  a  course  of  thirty- 
ne  miles.  They  are  interrupted  with  rapids,  still  it  is  by  one 
jof  them  that  all  the  Ottawa  lumber  passes  to  market.  At 
jBottt  de  risle,  therefore,  the  Ottawa  is  finally  merged  in  the 
\  Lawrence,  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  b.Iow  from  the  city 
f  Ottawa. 


Il 


i 


■i  ?i^  -1 


;.'-  -^n 


■C*,: 


« 


/ 


288 


OTTAWA     KIVER. 


•j 


Mi  ;.. 


"  The  most  prominent  characteristic  of  the  Ottawa  is  its 
great  volume.  Even  above  the  town,  where  it  has  to  receive 
tributaries  equal  to  the  Hudson,  the  Shannon,  the  Thames,  the 
Tweed,  fhe  Spey,  and  the  Clyde,  it  displays,  when  unconfined, 
a  width  of  half  a  mile  of  strong,  boiling  rapid ;  and  when  at 
the  highest,  while  the  north  waters  are  passing,  the  volume, 
by  calculated  approximation,  is  fully  equal  to  vbat  passing 
Niagara — that  is,  double  the  common  volume  of  the  Ganges. 

**  Taking  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  valley  of  the  Ottawa,  we 
see  spread  out  before  us  a  country  equal  to  eight  times  the  State 
of  Vermont,  or  ten  times  that  of  Massachusetts,  with  its  great 
artery,  the  Ottawa,  curving  through  it,  resembling  the  Rhine 
in  length  of  course,  and  the  Danube  in  magnitude. 

*•  This  immense  region  overlies  a  variety  of  geological  form- 
ations, and  presents  all  their  characteristic  features,  from  the 
level  uniform  surface  of  the  Silurian  system,  which  prevails 
along  a  great  extent  of  the  Ottawa,  to  the  rugged  and  roman- 
tic ridges  in  the  metamorphio  and  primitive  formations,  which 
stretch  far  away  to  the  north  and  the  northwest. 

'*  As  far  as  our  knowledge  of  the  country  extends,  we  find 
the  greater  part  of  it  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  red 
and  white  pine  timber,  making  the  most  valuable  forests  in  the 
world,  abundantly  intersected  with  large  rivers,  fitted  to  con- 
vey the  timber  to  market  when  manufactured. 

"The  remaining  portion  of  it,  if  not  so  valuably  wooded, 
presents  a  very  extensive  and  advantageous  field  for  settlement, 
/part  from  the  numerous  townships  already  surveyed  and  partly 
settled,  and  the  large  tracts  of  ^ood  land  interspersed  through- 
out the  timber  country,  the  grefit  region  on  the  upper  course 
of  the  western  tributaries  of  the  Ottawa,  behind  the  red  pine 
country,  exceeds  the  State  of  New  Hampshire  in  extent,  vith 
an  equal  climate  and  superior  soil.  It  is  generally  %  beautiful 
undulating  country,  wooded  with  a  rich  growth  of  maple,  beech, 
birch,  elm,  etc.,  and  watered  with  lakes  and  streams  affording 
numerous  mill-site'  and  abounding  in  fish.  Flanking  on  the 
one  side  the  lumbering  country,  which  presents  an  excellent 
market  for  produce,  and  adjoining  Lake  Hiiron  on  the  other, 
the  situation,  though  comparatively  inland,  is  highly  advan- 
tageous. Jn  the  (uversity  of  resources,  the  Ottawa  coimtr/ 
al^ve  described  presents  unusual  attractions  alike  to  agricul- 
tural and  commercial  enterprise.' 


}> 


^        \ 


the  Ottawa  is  its 
e  it  has  to  receive 
>n,  the  Thames,  the 
s,  vrhen  unconfined, 
apid ;  and  when  at 
assing,  the  volume, 
al  to  v.hat  passing 
e  of  the  Ganges, 
of  the  Ottawa,  we 
ight  times  the  State 
letta,  with  its  great 
lembling  the  Rhine 
nitude. 

of  geological  form- 
features,  from  the 
em,  which  prevails 
rugged  and  roman- 
e  formations,  which 
west. 

ry  extends,  we  find 
'iant  growth  of  red 
uable  forests  in  the 
[vers,  fitted  to  con- 
Bd. 

►  valuably  wooded, 
field  for  settlement, 
lurveycd  and  partly 
ierspersed  through- 
Q  the  upper  course 
3hind  the  red  pine 
ire  in  extent,  ^ith 
nerally  %  beautiful 
rth  of  maple,  beech, 
streams  affording 

Flanking  on  the 
$sents  an  excellent 
iron  on  the  other, 

is  Idghly  advan- 
e  Ottawa  country 
s  alike  to  agricul- 


LAKE  GEORGE,  OR  HORICON 


This  romantic  sheet  of  water,  whose  beauties  are  almost  in- 
describable, lies  mostly  in  the  county  af  Warren,  N.  Y.,  27 
miles  north  of  Saratoga  Springs.    It  is  justly  celebrated  for  its 
varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  and  for  the  transparency  and 
purity  of  its  waters.    It  is  36  miles  long,  north  and  south,  and 
from  two  to  three  miles  wide  *  and  is  elevated  243  feet  above 
the  tide-water  of  the  Hudson,  although  its  waters  flow  north 
into  Lake  Champlain.    It  is  surrounded  by  high  and  pictur- 
esque hills,  sometimes  rising  to  mountain  height,  and  dotted 
with  numerous  islands,  said  to  count  as  many  as  there  are  days 
in  the  year ;  some  are  of  considerable  size,  and  cultivated ; 
while  others  are  only  a  barren  rock,  rising  majestically  out  of 
tht  surrounding  waters.    The  wild  and  romantic  scenery  of  this 
lake  is  nowhere  surpassed.    The  bed  of  the  lake  is  a  handsome 
yellowish  sand,  and  the  water  is  so  pure  and  transparent  as  to 
render  the  bottom  visible  from  30  to  40  feet.    Here  the  delicious 
sahnon-trout,  that  weigh  from  five  to  twenty  pounds,  are. found 
in  great  numbers,  and  of  the  finest  quality.    Silver  trout,  brook 
trout,  pike,  pickerel,  perch,  and  several  other  kinds  of  fresh 
water  fiph,  are  also  abundant.    Travelers  on  the  tour  from  the 
Springs  to  Canada  should  not  fail  to  vicit  Lake  George ;  by  the 
French  called  Lac  Sacramt  ^t,  on  account  of  the  purity  of  its 
waters.    The  steamboat  **  Minnehaha"  runs  through  the  lake, 
from  Caldwell  to  the  landing  near  the  village  of  Ticonderoga, 
whence  stages  run  to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  at  the  steamboat  land- 
ing on  Lake  Champlain ;  where  steam  passage  boats,  on  their 
route  from  Whitehall  to  Burlington  and  Rouse's  Point,  touch 
<laily  during  the  season  of  navigation.    This  route  is  varied  in 
Bcenery,  and  deeply  interesting  in  historical  incidents. 

The  romantic  village  of  Caldwell,  lying  at  the  south  end 
of  the  lake,  contains  a  court-house  and  jail,  two  churches,  and 

25 


I 


i 


I  i 


n 


u  t 


%  ■  ■■ 
f 

if.  ri: 


II 


290 


LAKE    OBOROEi    OR    HORICON. 


it-  -J 


f  numner  of  haDdsomo  private  residences,  besides  Fort  William 
Henry  Hotel  and  the  Lake  Houses  two  popular  public  housea, 
which  are  usually  thronged  with  fashionable  visitors  during  the 
summer  months. 

**  Lake  George  abo;  '^  with  small  and  beautiful  islands, 
among  the  most  impor  of  which  are  Diamond  Island,  Tea 
Island,  and  Long  Island.  i«oger*s  Rock  or  Slide,  and  Anthony's 
Nose,  the  former  on  the  west  and  the  latter  on  the  east  side,  arc 
two  precipices  worthy  of  note.  Howe's  Landing,  just  behind  an 
island  ai  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  denotes  the  spot  where  the  un- 
fortunate expedition  of  Abercrombie  landed,  and  derives  it^ 
name  from  Lord  Howe,  who  accompanied  and  fell  in  that  ex- 
pedition, in  1758. 

"  This  lake  and  its  vicinity  has  been  the  scene  of  several  im- 
portant battles.  One  which  has  been  generally  known  as  the 
Battle  of  La/ee  George,  was  fought  at  the  head  of  the  lake  in 
1756,  between  the  French  under  the  Baron  Dieskau,  and  the 
English  under  Sir  Wm.  Johnson.  Dieskau  attacked  the  English 
in  their  encampment,  but  was  defeated  and  slain.  The  loss  of 
the  English  was  130  slain,  and  that  of  the  French  about  700.' 

*'  The  most  shocking  transaction  in  the  vicinity  of  this  lalie 
was  the  Massacre  at  Fort  William  Henry  in  1757.  A  British 
and  Provincial  army  having  been  collect(Kl  at  Fort  Edward  and 
Fort  William  Henry  under  Gen.  Webb,  for  the  reduction  of  the 
French  works  on  Lake  Champlain,  the  French  sent  a  large  army 
up  the  lake  under  Gen.  Montcalm,  for  their  defense.  Gen. 
Webb,  then  at  Fort  William  Henry,  learning  from  Maj.  Putnam 
that  this  force  had  entered  Lake  George,  returned  immediately 
to  Fort  Edward,  and  the  day  following  sent  Col.  Monroe,  with 
his  regimttnt,  to  reinforce  the  garrison  at  the  lake.  The  day 
after  Monroe's  arrival  the  French  appeared  at  the  fort,  laid 
siege  to  it,  and  demanded  its  surrender.  The  garrison,  con- 
sistin^;  of  2,600  men,  defended  themselves  with  much  bravery 
for  several  days,  with  the  expectation  of  succor  from  Fort  Ed- 
ward. But  as  none  came,  Monroe  was  obliged  on  the  9th  of 
August  to  capitulate.  By  the  articles  of  capitulation,  all  the 
public  property  was  to  be  delivered  to  Montcalm,  and  the  gar- 
rison were  to  march  out  with  their  arms  and  baggage,  and  to 
be  escorted  to  Fort  Edward,  on  condition  of  not  serving  against 
the  French  within  the  period  of  eighteen  months. 

''  The  garrison  had  no  sooner  marched  out  of  the  fort  than  . 
scene  of  perfidy  and  barbarity  commenced,  which  it  is  impos- 
sible for  language  to  describe.  Regardless  of  the  articles  of 
capitulation,  the  Indians  attached  to  the  French  army  fell  upon 

*  See  Thomnsou^  V<»rmA««  p^rt  IL,  page  8. 


m 


;IC0N. 


LAKB    OEOKOE     OR   HORICON. 


291 


hesides  Fort  William 
opular  public  houses, 
3le  visitors  during  the 

ad  beautiful  islands. 

Diamond  Island,  Tea 
>  Slide,  and  Anthony's 
r  on  the  east  side,  are 
.nding,  just  behind  an 
le  spot  where  the  un- 
idea,  and  derives  it^ 

and  fell  in  that  ex- 

e  scene  of  several  im- 

nerally  known  as  the 

le  head  of  the  lake  in 

ron  Dieskau,  and  the 

1  attacked  the  English 

id  slain.     The  losa  of 

B  French  about  700.' 

le  vicinity  of  this  lake 

jT  in  1757.     A  British 

i  at  Fort  Edward  and 

r  the  reduction  of  the 

ach  sent  a  large  array 

their  defense.    Gen. 

ig  from  Maj.  Putnam 

eturned  immediately 

ent  Col.  Monroe,  with 

the  lake.    The  day 

red  at  the  fort,  laid 

The  garrison,  con- 

with  much  bravery 

succor  from  Fort  Ed- 

bliged  on  the  9th  of 

capitulation,  all  the 

ntcalm,  and  the  gar- 

and  baggage,  and  to 

not  serving  against 

nonths. 

>ut  of  the  fort  than  . 
d,  which  it  is  impos- 
■ss  of  the  articles  of 
rench  army  fell  upon 

I.,  page  8. 


the  defenseless  soldiers,  plundering  and  murdering  all  that  foil 
in  their  way.  The  French  officers  were  idle  spectators  of  this 
bloody  scene ;  nor  could  all  the  entreaties  of  Monroe  persuade 
them  to  furnish  the  promised  escort.  On  that  fatal  day  about 
1,500  of  the  English  were  either  murdered  by  the  savages  or 
carried  by  them  into  captivity  never  to  return. 

*'  The  day  following  these  horrid  transactions.  Major  Putnam 
was  dispatched  from  Fort  Edward  with  his  rangers  to  watch 
the  motions  of  the  enemy.  He  reached  Lake  George  just  after 
tiie  rear  of  the  enemy  had  left  the  shore,  and  the  scene  which 
was  presented  he  describes  as  awful  indeed.  'The  fort  was 
entirely  destroyed;  the  barracks,  out-houses,  and  buildings 
were  a  heap  of  ruins — the  cannon,  stores,  boats,  and  vessels 
were  all  carried  away.  The  fires  were  still  burning— the  smoke 
and  stench  offensive  and  suffocating  Innumerable  f  ragmen  is 
of  human  skulls,  and  bones  and  carcasses  half  consumed,  were 
still  frying  and  broiling  in  the  decaying  fires.  Dead  bodies 
mangled  with  scalping-knives  and  tomahawks,  in  all  the  wan- 
tonness of  Indian  barbarity,  were  everywhere  to  be  seen.  More 
than  100  women,  butchered  and  shockingly  mangled,  lay  upon 
the  ground  still  weltering  in  their  gore.  Devastation,  barbar- 
ity, and  horror  everywhere  appeared ;  and  the  spectacle  pre- 
sented was  too  diabolical  and  awful  either  to  be  endured  or 
described.' " 


STEAMER   ON   LAKE    GEORGE. 

A  NEW  steamboat  is  being  built  on  Lake  George  in  the  place 
of  the  John  Jay,  burned  in  July  last.  She  is  145  feet  long 
and  26  feet  wide.  The  boiler  and  furnace  are  placed  in  com- 
partments, incased  in  iron,  entirely  fire-proof,  no  expense  being 
spared  in  order  to  make  her  a  beautiful  and  safe  passenger  boat. 

Her  name,  "  Minne-ha-ha,"  a  romantic  one,  is  selected 
with  great  appropriateness  from  Longfellow's  Hiawatha  : 

"  "With  him  dwelt  his  dark-eyed  daughter, 
Wayward  as  the  Minnehaha ; 
With  her  moods  of  shade  and  sunshine, 
Eyes  that  Arv.  wned  and  smiled  alternate, 
Feet  as  rapid  as  tide  river, 
Tresses  flowing  like  the  water, 
And  as  musical  a  laughter ; 
And  he  named  her  from  the  river, 
From  the  waterfall  he  named  her 
'Uinne-hii''h&— laughing  water." 


292 


FALLS   OF  TICONDEROGA. 


• ) 


The  Falls  or  Ticoivderooa,  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George,  arc  well  worthy  the  attention  of  tourists.  Hero  are 
two  important  cascades  within  the  distance  of  two  or  three 
miles,  surrounded  by  mountain  scenery  of  great  historic  in 
tercst.  Tlie  Upper  Falla^  near  the  Tillage  of  Alexandria,  are 
formed  by  a  succession  of  descents  of  upward  of  200  feet  witiiin 
the  distance  of  a  mile,  affording  water-power  unsurpassed  by 
any  other  locality  in  the  State  for  safety  and  a  steady  flow  of 
water,  the  stream  not  being  subject  to  freshets.  The  Lowtr 
Fally  in  the  village  of  Ticonderoga,  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of 
80  feet,  being  much  used  for  hydraulic  purposes.  The  ruins 
of  old  Fort  THconderogOy  two  miles  below  this  place,  are  situ- 
ated on  a  point  of  land  at  the  entrance  of  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George  into  Lake  Champlain,  standing  on  an  eminence  of  about 
60  feet,  overlooking  the  lake ;  the  ruins  are  plainly  visible  from 
the  water,  presenting  a  conspicuous  and  interesting  object. 
About  1,800  yards  southwest  stands  Mount  Defiance ^  rising 
7^0  feet  above  the  lake,  overlooking  and  commanding  the  site 
of  Fort  Ticonderoga.  A  public  house,  for  the  accommodation 
of  visitors,  stands  near  the  steamboat  landinc;. 


DISTANCES   FROM  CALDWELL  TO   ALBANY,  tia  SARATOGA 

SPRINGS. 


CALDWELL 0 

Glenn's  Falls,  Stage. .  9 
Morcau  Station  "  . .  6 
Saratoga  Springs.  .15 

Ballston  Spa 7 

Mechanicsville 13 

Junction  Albany  R.R.  6 

Waterford 2 

Cohoes 1 

Troy 3 

ALBANY 6 


0     ALBANY 0 

9     Troy 6 

14     Cohoes 3 

29     Waterford...., 1 

36  Junction  Albany  R.R.  2 

49     Mechanicsville 6 

55     Ballston  Spa 13 

57  *  Saratoga  Springs.  .  7 

58  Moreau  Station 15 

61  Glenn's  Falls,  Stage. .  5 

67  CALDWELL     "      ..9 


0 
6 
9 
10 
12 
18 
31 
32 
53 
58 
67 


the  outlet  of  Lake 
;ouri8ts.  Hero  arc 
e  of  two  or  three 
great  historic  in 
of  Alexandria,  are 
i  of  200  feet  within 
er  unsurpassed  by 
id  a  steady  flow  of 
ishets.  The  L<twtr 
jrpendicular  fall  of 
irposes.  The  ruins 
his  place,  are  situ- 
the  outlet  of  Lake 
1  eminence  of  about 
plainly  visible  from 
interesting  object. 
nt  Defiance^  rising 
)mmanding  the  site 
the  accommodation 


LAKE    CHAM  PLAIN. 


T,  vta  SARATOGA 

0  0 

6  6 

3  9 

, 1  10 

Ibany  R.R.  2  12 

He 6  18 

13  31 

iPRiNGs. .  7  32 

tion 15  53 

J,  Stage...  5  58 

«      ..  9  67 


Onk  of  the  most  interesting  and  lovely  bodies  of  water  in 
North  America  lies  between  the  States  of  New  York  and  Ver- 
mont, through  which  runs  the  boundary  line  from  near  White- 
hall to  lat.  45°,  being  a  distance  of  116  miles;  it  may  be  said 
to  extend  four  miles  farther,  into  Canada,  making  the  whole 
length  of  the  lake  120  miles;  varying  from  half  a  mile  or  less 
to  twelve  miles  in  width.      Its  direction  is  nearly  north  and 
south,  and  it  is  a  long,  narrow,  and  deep  body  of  water,  dotted 
with  a  number  of  islands,  the  largest  of  which  belong  to  Ver- 
mont.   From  Whitehall  to  Crown  Point  the  lake  is  quite  nar- 
row, but  here  it  begins  to  expand,  and  soon  becomes  three 
miles  wide,  still  increasing  northward  until  near  Burlington, 
where  it  spreads  to  its  greatest  width.     Miaaisquoi  Bay,  an 
extension  of  Lake  Champlain  on  the  northeast,  lies  mostly  in 
Canada,  above  the  45th  degree  of  north  latitude.    Steamboats 
of  the  first  class,  and  sloops  of  from  50  to  100  tons  burden, 
navigate  Lake  Champlain  its  whole  length,  thence  down  the 
Sorelle,  or  Richelieu  River,  its  outlet,  to  St.  John's,  Canada, 
where  steamboat  navigation  ceases ;  a  total  distance  of  about 
140  miles.      This  lake  is  also  connected  with  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  Hudson,  by  means  of  the  Champlain  Canal,  which 
extends  south,  a  distance  of  63  miles.     As  you  approach  near 
the  center  of  Lake  Champlain,  a  large  body  of  water  presents 
itself  to  view,  bordered  by  scenery  of  the  most  picturesque 
description ;  the  headlands  which  are  seen  to  great  advantage, 
and  the  vast  ranges  of  mountains  on  either  side,  are  truly  grand 
and  romantic.     The  highest  peak  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
called  the  "  CameVa  Hump"  is  seen  on  the  east,  while  the 
high  ranges  of  the  mountains  of  Essex  County  are  seen  on  the 
west.    This  latter  range  of  mountain  peaks,  the  Adirondack 

26* 


I 


294 


LAKE    CHAMPLAIN. 


W  V 


?* 


;*:-i 


group,  contains  the  highest  land  in  the  State  of  New  York, 
rising  in  some  places  to  the  height  of  6,000  feet  and  upward, 
abounding  with  iron  ore  and  timber  of  large  growth.  In  the 
streams  which  flow  into  this  lake  are  frequent  waterfalls  of 
great  beauty ;  and  the  flne  headlands,  with  numerouf>  indenta- 
tions and  bays  of  singular  beauty,  only  need  to  be  seen  to  be 
admired.  Its  waters  are  well  stored  with  salmon,  salmon  trout, 
sturgeon,  pickerel,  and  other  fish. 

"  Lake  Champlain  was  discovered  by  Samuel  Champlain  in 
July,  1609,  having  founded  the  colony  of  Quebec  in  1608;  in 
June,  1809,  he,  with  a  number  of  French  and  Indians,  pro- 
ceeded in  a  shallop  up  the  St.  Lawrence  and  river  Iroquois, 
now  Richelieu,  till  stopped  by  the  Chambly  Rapids.  From  this 
place  he  determined  to  proceed  in  Indian  canoes,  but  the 
Frenchmen  manifested  great  reluctance,  and  only  two  would 
be  p3rsuaded  to  accompany  him.  With  these  and  about  sixty 
of  the  natives,  h  /ing  transported  their  canoes  by  the  rapids  on 
the  2d  of  July,  and,  proceeding  southward,  on  the  4th  of  July 
e  entered  the  lake 
♦*  Champlain  and  his  party  proceeded  along  the  west  shore, 
advancing  by  water  during  the  night  and  retiring  into  the 
forests  by  day,  to  avoid  being  discovered  by  the  Iroquois,  be- 
tween whom  and  the  Canada  Indian '.  a  war  was  then  carried  on. 
As  they  drew  near  the  enemy's  country  they  proceeded  with 
great  caution,  but  on  the  29th  of  July,  in  the  evening,  they 
fell  in  with  a  large  war  party  of  the  Iroquois.  Both  parties 
drew  up  to  the  shore,  and  the  night  was  spent  in  preparation 
for  battle,  and  in  singino  and  taunting  each  other.  In  the 
morning  an  engagement  took  place,  but  the  Frenchmen  bein^ 
armed  with  muskets,  it  was  decided  in  favor  of  Champlain  and 
his  party,  a  large  number  of  the  Iroquois  being  slain  and  seve- 
ral taken  prisoners.  With  these  they  returned  immediately 
to  their  shallop.  Champlain  says  that  this  battle  was  fought 
in  lat.  48°  and  some  minutes,  and  the  place  is  supposed  to 
have  been  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  George.  The  present 
name  of  Lake  Champlain  was  given  by  its  discoverer  during  his 
first  visit,  as  he  informs  us  in  his  journal.  He  was-  not 
drowned  in  its  waters,  as  has  been  sometimes  said,  but  died  at 
Quebec  in  1635.  One  of  the  Indian  names  of  this  lake  was 
Petawa-Bouque,  signifying  alternate  land  and  water,  in  allu- 
sion to  the  numerous  islands  and  projecting  points  of  land. 
Another  is  said  to  have  been  Caniaderi-  Gtmrunte,  signifyi  ig 
the  mouth  or  door  of  the  country.  If  so,  it  was  very  appropriate, 
as  it  forms  the  gate- way  between  the  country  on  the  St.  Law- 


'-^'^ 


LAKE    CHAMPLAIN. 


295 


rence  and  that  on  the  Hudson.  In  more  recent  times  the  In- 
dians called  it  Corlear,  in  honor  of  a  Dutchman  who  saved  a 
war  party  of  Canada  Indians  from  being  destroyed  by  the  Mo- 
hawks in  1665. 

"  The  first  steamboat  built  on  this  lake  commenced  running 
in  1809.  The  line  boats  have  always  been  favorably  known 
to  travelers  either  for  business  or  pleasure,  for  the  manner  in 
which  they  have  been  managed— their  neat  and  orderly  ap- 
pearance—obliging and  attentivj  ofl&cers  and  efficient  crews. 
At  present  there  are  daily  lines  to  and  from  Whitehall  and 
Rouse's  Point,  stopping  at  Ticonderoga,  Burlington,  Plattsburgh, 
and  intermediate  places,  connecting  with  the  various  railroads 
-also  numerous  ferry  boats,  propellers,  and  tow  boats,  besides 
more  than  300  sloops,  canal  boats,  barges,  etc." 

Champlain  Canal  connects  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  with 
Lake  Champlain.  it  is  64  miles  long,  40  feet  wide  at  the  top  and 
28  at  the  bottom,  with  a  navigable /e^c/er  at  Sandy  Hill  11  miles 
long.  It  has  21  locks,  14  by  90  feet.  Rise  from  the  Hudson, 
134  feet,  fall  to  the  lake,  54;  was  begun  in  1816,  finished  in 
1819,  and  cost  $1 ,079,872.  The  route  of  this  canal  is  interest- 
j  r^  on  account  of  its  passing  through  a  section  of  country  ren- 
dered memorable  by  important  military  operations.  It  passes 
in  part  along  the  line  of  Burgoyne's  advance  from  Lake  Cham- 
plain—near  the  scene  of  his  principal  battles — and  of  his  final 
surrender.  It  passes  near  Fort  INIiller — Fort  Edward — the 
spot  where  Miss  M'Crea  was  murdered — Fort  Anne — the  tree  to 
which  Gen.  Putnam  was  boUnd  in  1757,  etc. 


I  Height  op  thb  Pri^tcit ai  Moun- 
tain Pbak8  in  V  ERMONT— Green 
Mountain  Banqe. 

Nv.MK.  Altitude  above  S'ja. 

Chin,  or  North  Peak,  Mans- 
flel/d  Mountain    4,279  ft. 

Camel's  Hump,  Huntington  4,188  " 

Shrewsbury  Mountain 4,086  " 

Kose,  or  Boutti  Pealc,  Mang- 
fleld  Mountain 8,988  " 

Killington  Pealc,  Slierburne  8,924  •* 

Equinox  Mountain,  Man- 
chester  8,706  " 

4«:utney  ML,  Windsor. . . .  8,820  " 

Surface  of  Lake  Champlain, 
'*       Lake  George 
**       Laki  Ontario 


Altitude  of  the  Principal  Moun- 
tains Northern  New  York — 
Adirondack  Group. 


Namk. 

Mount  Marcy, 
Mount    Mcln- 

tire . . 

Mount  McMar- 

tln       

Dial  Mountain 
Wliiteface  Mt. 


Altitude  hIiovi'  8pn. 
5,407  ft. 


Essex 

i  County. 

I 


5,188 


(( 


6,000  " 
4,900  « 
4  855  " 

Mount  8eward,Franlvlin  Co.  4,600  " 
Mount  Lyon,  Clinton  Co.  . .  4,000  " 


above  tide 90  feet. 

t4       «    248   ** 

u       4(     .'  i  i  .*  i  i  .*  i  i  284  ** 


rf 


i;"  .   ,    ! 


•:4i 


296 


LIST   OF   STEAMERS,    ETC. 


LIST  OF  STEAMERS  BUILT  AND  RUNNING  ON  LAKE  CHAM- 

t»LAIN  SINCE  1809. 

Bul't.        Nnme  T'>n'«.      Wh«  e  buHt.  Reniarkfi. 

1809. .Vermont* 167.  .Burlington,  Vt.— aunk  Oct.,  1315. 

1815.  .Phoenix  (Ist) 836. . Vergeunes,  Vt— burnt  Sept.,  1819. 

1817.  .Champlaln 128. . Vergennes,  Vt— burnt  1S17. 

1819 . .  Congress 209 . .  Vergennes,  Vt — broken  up. 

1820.. Phoenix  (2d).. 846.. Vergennes,  Vt— broken  up. 

1825 . .  Gen.  Greene I5i5 . .  Burlington,  Vt— broken  up. 

1827. . Franklin 812.  .St  Albans,  Vt— broken  up. 

"    . .  Washington 1 84 . .  Essex,  N.  Y.  —broken  up. 

1828 . .  M'Donough 188 . .  St  Albans,  Vt.— lost  1841. 

1832 . .  Winooski 159 . .  Burlington,  Vt.— broken  up. 

"    . .  Water-Witch 107 . .  Fort  Cassin,  Vt. — changed  to  schooner. 

1887 . .  Burlington 482 . .  Shelburne,  Vt— broken  up. 

1888. .Whitehall 461. .Whitehall, N.  Y.-broken  up. 

1842 . .  Saranac 831 . .  Shelburne,  Vt.— broken  up. 

"    ..Bouquet 81.. Essex,  N.  Y. 

1S45.  .Francis  Saltus 878.  .Whitehall,  N.  Y. 

1847 . .  United  States 666 . .  Shelburne,  Vt 

"    . .  Ethan  Allen 500    Shelburne,  Vt 

1851 .  .Boston 219 .. Shelburne,  Vt 

1852.  .America 681 .  .Whitehall,  N.  Y. 

1858.  .Canada 718. .Whitehall,  N.  Y. 

1856 . .  Montreal 416 . .  Shelburne,  Vt. 

"    . .  Oliver  Bascom 860 . .  WhitehaU,  N.  Y. 

STEAMERS  BUILT  ON  LAKE  GEORGE. 

Bnilt.  Name.  Where  built.  Remarka. 

1817. .Caldwell,  (Ist) Ticonderoga— burnt  1821. 

1824.  .Mountaineer. Caldwell-  condemned  1887. 

1888 . .  CaldweU,  (2d) Ticonderoga— broken  up. 

1852.  .John  Jay burnt,  July,  1856. 

1857 . .  Min-ne-ha-ha. Caldwell. 


AMERICAN  STEAMERS  RUNNING  ON  LAKE  CHAMPLAIN,  1951. 

(day  and  night  line.) 

Name.  Tons.  From  and  To. 

America,  Capt.  Flagg  ....  681  Whitehall  to  Burlington  and 

Rouse's  Point. 

Canada,  Capt.  Davis 718         "  «*  " 

United  States 566         »*  «  " 

Capt.  Wm.  Anderson. 

Francis  Saltus 373  Whitehall  to  Plattsburgh. 

Capt.  L.  Chamberlin. 

Montreal,  Capt.  Mayo  . . .  418  Burlington  to  Plattsburgh. 

Bouquet,  Capt.  Barker  ...     81  Plattsburgh  to  St.  Albans,Vt. 

Boston,  Capt.  Hinkley 219  Burlington  to  Rouse's  Point. 

*  Built  and  run  by  Capt.  John  Winanta.    Fare  $7  from  Whitehall  to  | 
Bt.  John's,  Can. 


STEAMBOAT    AND    RAILROAD    ROUTES. 


297 


ON  LAKE  CHAM. 


FREIGHT   BOATS. 


Ethan  Allen,    Capt.  Wriffht,  500    Whitehall  to  St.  John's,  Can. 
Oliver  Bascom,  "   Eldridge,  SCO  "  «* 

James  H.  Hooker.  Propeller  •♦  " 


:  CHAMPLAIN,  1S57. 

rom  and  To. 
to  Burlington  and 

se's  Point. 

to  Plattsburgh. 

n  to  Plattsburgh. 
ghtoSt.Albans,Vt. 
n  to  Rouse's  Point. 

$T  from  Whiteball  to  j 


STEAMBOAT  AND  EAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  WHITEHALL 
TO  BURLINGTON,  ROUSE'S  POINT,  AND  MONTREAL. 


Landings,  etc. 

I  Whitehall,  N.  Y.  . . 

Benson,  Vt 

Orwell,    "    

Ticonderoga,  N.  Y.  . . . 
Laral)ee's  Point,  Vt. . . 

Crown  Point,  N.  Y 

Port  Henry,       ** 

Westport, 

Essex, 


(( 


u 


i( 


Miles.        Stations,  etc. 

0  Montreal,  Can.  . . . 
13  St.  John's,  «... 
7-20  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.. 
4-24  Plattsburgh,  "  . 
1-25  Port  Kent, 
8-33    Burlington,  Vt. 

8-41    Essex,  N.Y 14-108 

9-50    Westport,"    12-120 

Port  Henry,  N.  Y 9-129 

8-137 
8-146 


Miles. 

0 
21 
23-44 
25-69 
15-84 
10-94 


12-62 

Burlington,  Vt 14-76    Crown  Point, 

Port  Kent,  N.  Y 10-86    Larabee's  Point,  Vt. 


(( 


Plattsburgh,  "    15-101  Ticonderoga,  N.  Y 1-146 

hwtes  Point,  N.  Y.  .  25-126  OrweU,  Vt 4-150 

St.  John's,  Can 23-149  Benson,  «    7-157 

MoiTTREAL,  "    21-170  Whitehall,  N.  Y.  . .  13-170 

I  Usual  Time  from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point,  9  hours. 

«         "  Fare $3  00 

Rouse's  Point  tr  Montreal,  2  hours. 
«         «*  Through  Fare 4  50 


u 


(( 


RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  ALBANY. 
Stations.  Miles.  Total  Miles. 

WHITEHALL 0     0 

Fort  Anne 11     11 

Fort  Edward 12     23 

Moreau  Station 1     24 

Saratoga  Springs - 15     39 

Ballston  Spa 7 40 

Mechanicsyille 13     69 

Waterford  .' 8     67 

Troy 4     71 

ALBANY. 6     77 

Usual  Time,  8}  hours.    Fare,  $2  38. 


298 


WHITEHALL. 


t'^--    ^i 


The  village  of  Whitehall,  77  miles  north  of  Albany  by 
railroad  route,  is  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  at  the  head 
of  Lake  Champlain,  and  at  the  junction  of  the  Champlain 
Canal  with  the  lake,  being  a  secure  and  important  naTal 
station  in  time  of  war.  The  village  was  incorporated  in  1820, 
and  now  contains  four  churches,  three  hotels,  a  bank,  30  stores  | 
of  different  kinds,  several  storehouses,  and  extensive  forwarding 
houses ;  two  ship-yards  and  two  dry  docks,  where  are  built  and 
repaired  steamboats,  lake  craft,  and  canal  boats ;  machine-shope, 
brick  yards,  tanneries  and  other  manufacturing  establishments. 
Population  about  4,000. 

Besides  the  daily  line  of  steamers  running  from  Whitehall  to  I 
Burlington,  Plattsburgh,  and  Rouse's  Point  on  the  north,  the  | 
Saratoga  and  Whitehall  Railroad  extends  40  miles  south,  to  j 
Saratoga  Springs,  and  a  branch  railroad  extends  east  to  Rut- 
land, Yt.,  connecting  with  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Rail* 
road,  thus  forming  speedy  facilities  for  reaching  New  York  and  | 
Boston  by  railroad  routes. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Whitehall  are  high  and  rugged  | 
hills,  while  to  the  south  lies  the  valley  formed  by  Wood  Creek, 
heading  near  the  banks  of  the  Hudson.    Through  this  valley,  I 
during  the  old  French  War  of  1759,  and  the  Revolutionary  War 
of  1776,  the  French,  the  British,  and  the  American  armies 
each  marshaled  their  forces  preparatory  to  attack,  or  on  their 
retreat.     This  place   was    formerly    called    SkeenesboroughA 
The  Indian  name  was  said  to  be  Kah-sha-quah-na^  or  place\ 
where  dip  fish.     Here,  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  for  a 
time,  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  American  forces ;  this  point 
and  Lake  George  being  the  only  two  accessible  approaches  from 
Canada,  by  the  invading  loe,  under  Gen.  Burgoyne.    Here,  too,  j 
during  the  old  French  War,  Gen.  Putnam  distinguished  him- 
self, both  in  battle  and  in  an  adroit  escape  from  Indian  foes,  hav- 1 
ing,  it  is  said,  plunged  into  the  lake  about  one  mile  north  of 
Skeenesborough,  and  swam  his  horse  to  the  opposite  shore,  thus 
eluding  their  pursuit.    Peaceful  pursuits  and  pleasure  nowj 
render  this  place  a  great  thoroughfare. 


lortli  of  Albany  by 
valley  at  the  head 
1  of  the  Champlain 
id  important  naval 
icorporated  in  1820, 
Is,  a  bank,  30  stores 
jxtensive  forwarding 
where  are  built  and 
3ats ;  machine-shope,  | 
iring  establishments. 

ig  from  Whitehall  to 
it  on  the  north,  the  I 
is  40  miles  south,  to 
jxtends  east  to  Rut- 
id  Burlington  Rail- 
ching  New  York  and  | 

ire  high  and  rugged 
ed  by  Wood  Creek, 
through  this  valley,  i 
}  Revolutionary  War 
le  American  armies 
attack,  or  0)i  their 
id    SkeenesboroughA 
i-quah-na,  or  plan 
ationary  War,  for  a  i 
forces;  this  point 
ble  approaches  from 
rgoyne.    Here,  too, 
distinguished  him-j 
om  Indian  foes,haT- 
one  mile  north  of 
opposite  shore,  thus 
and  pleasure  now 


TRIP  FROM  WHITEHALL  TO  BURLINGTON  AND 

ROUSE'S  POINT. 


This  excursion,  during  the  summer  months,  is  the  most  grand 
Ipd  interesting  of  any  of  similar  extent  in  North  America — 
passing  through  a  romantic  lake,  with  high  mountains  in  the 
distance,  and  past  scenes  rendered  classic  by  their  associations 
with  events  that  occurred  during  the  old  French  and  Revolu- 
|tionary  wars. 

On  leaving  the  new  steamboat  wharf,  about  one  mile  north  of 
I  Whitehall,  an  interest  is  at  once  excited  in  the  breast  of  all 
intelligent  travelers.  The  hills  rise  abruptly  to  the  height  of 
several  hundred  feet,  while  the  lake  or  outlet  of  Wood  Creek  is 
hemmed  in  for  several  miles  by  rocky  cliffs.  The  Elbow  y  the 
\Karrows,  the  Pulpit,  and  other  names,  are  given  to  the  most 
{interesting  points. 

Bgnson,  13  miles  below  Whitehall,  is  the  first  steamboat 
I  landing.  Here  the  waters  begin  to  widen  to  about  half  a  mile 
I  in  width. 

Orwell,  seven  miles  farther,  is  another  steamboat  landing. 
I  Here  the  lake  widens  from  one  to  two  miles. 

TicoNDEROGA,  24  milcs  north  of  Whitehall,  and  four  miles 
I  east  of  the  foot  of  Lake  George,  is  a  sacred  and  romantic  spot, 
where  is  a  convenient  steamboat  landing  and  a  good  hotel,  bo- 
I  ades  the  celebrated  ruins  of  the  old  Fort. 

Fort  Ticonderoga. — The  ruins  of  this  old  fortification  are 

lotuated  in  the  town  of  Ticonderoga,  Essex  Co.,  on  the  west  side 

of  Lake  Champlain,  at  the  entrance  of  the  outlet  of  Lake  George, 

1 24  miles  north  of  Whitehall.    This  place  was  originally  called 

Ghe-ort'der-o-^a  by  the  Indians,  signifying,  in  their  language, 

I  flo»e,  and  applied  to  the  falls  in  the  outlet  of  Lake  George ;  its 

uune  was  afterward  slightly  changed  by  the  French  into  its 


300 


WHITBMALL    TO    ROUSE  S   POINT. 


present  appellation,  which  it  has  borne  ever  since  it  was  first 
occupied  and  fortified  by  them  in  1756.  The  fort  was  at  first 
named  Fort  Carillon ,  but  afterward  called  Fort  Tieonderoga 
by  the  English  and  Americans.  This  fortification  cost  the 
French  government  a  large  sum  of  money,  and  was  considered 
very  strong,  both  by  nature  and  art.  It  stands  on  a  point  of 
land  elevated  70  feet  above  Lake  Champlain,  being  surrounded 
on  three  sides  by  water,  and  on  the  northwest  it  was  defended 
by  strong  breastworks.  Mou?it  Independence ,  on  the  opposite 
or  east  side  of  the  lake,  was  also  fortified,  and  some  of  the  in- 
trenchments  are  still  visible,  elevated  110  feet  above  the  lake, 
and  overlooking  the  peninsula  of  Ticonderoga.  After  several 
sanguinary  conflicts  in  this  vicinity,  and  "inder  the  very  walls 
of  the  fort,  in  which  several  thousand  lives  were  sacrificed,  this 
important  military  position  was  tamely  evacuated  by  the  French 
in  1769,  and  given  np  to  the  British  army  under  Lord  Amherst; 
who  retained  possession  until  it  was  taken, by  surprise  by  Col. 
Ethan  Allen,  of  the  American  army,  in  1775.  He  is  said  to 
have  entered  the  fort  through  a  subterraneous  passage  from  the 
south,  extending  to  the  lake ;  surprising  the  commandant  in  his 
bed  before  he  was  aware  of  his  danger,  and  in  his  characteristic 
way  required  the  officer  to  surrender.  He  asked  to  whom? 
•*  Why,  to  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress^  to  be  sure," 
was  his  laconic  reply.  In  1777,  tho  British  army,  under  Gen. 
Burgoyne,  on  their  route  to  Saratoga,  appeared  in  array  before 
Ticonderoga,  when  Gen.  St.  Clair,  the  American  commander, 
was  forced  to  evacuate ;  the  enemy  having  erected  a  battery  on 
Mount  Defiance,  in  the  rear,  elevated  720  feet  above  the  lake, 
which  overlooked  and  completely  commanded  this  fortification, 
which  was  before  considered  almost  impregnable ;  it  then  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  British  until'  the  close  of  the  war. 
Since  that  time  it  has  been  suffered  to  go  to  decay,  and  nov 
presents  one  of  the  most  interesting  ruins  of  the  kind  in  this 
country,  and  is  annually  visited  by  a  great  number  of  travelers. 
Niear  by,  delightfully  situated  on  the  lake  shore,  is  a  well-kept 
hxA^  ioT  the  accommodation  of  visitors.    Here  steamboats,  dur* 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSE  8    POINT. 


801 


j  iog  the  season  of  navigation,  daily  land  and  receive  passengers 
on  their  route  from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point. 

The  following  account  of  the  defeat  of  tue  British  at 
TicoNDEROGA,  IN  1769,  Is  taken  from  the  **Memoir8  of  an 
American  Lady**  written  by  Mi  s.  Grant : 

"  The  army,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Abercrombie,  crossed 
lake  George  on  the  5th  of  July,  and  landed  without  opposition, 
iliey  proceeded  in  four  columns  to  Ticonderoga,  and  displayed 
a  spectacle  unprecedented  in  the  New  World.     An  army  of  six- 
teen thousand  men,  regulars  and  provincials,  with  a  train  of 
artillery,  and  all  the  necessary  provisions  for  an  active  cam- 
paign or  regular  siege,  followed  by  a  fleet  of  batteaux,  pontons, 
etc.    They  set  out  wrong,  however,  by  not  having  Indian  guides, 
who  are  alone  to  be  depended  on  in  such  a  place.    In  a  short 
time  the  columns  fell  in  upon  each  other,  and  occasioned  much 
confusion.     The  advance  guard  of  the  French,  which  had  re- 
tired before  them,  were  equally  bewildered,  and  falling  in  with 
j  each  other  in  this  confusion,  a  skirmish  ensued,  in  which  the 
French  lost  above  three  hundred  men,  and  the  English,  though 
I  gaccessful  in  this  first  rencontre,  lost  as  much  as  it  was  possible 
1  to  lose,  in  one  man — for  here  it  was  that  the  valiint  Lord  Howe, 
tlie  second  in  command,  fell  mortally  wounded.     He  was  shot 
I  from  behind  a  tree,  probably  by  some  Indian ;  and  the  whole 
army  were  inconsolable  for  a  loss  they  too  well  knew  to  be 
I  irreparable. 
"  The  fort  is  in  a  situation  of  peculiar  natural  strength ;  it 
es  on  a  little  peninsula,  with  Lake  Champlain  on  one  side,  and 
I  a  narrow  opening  communicating  with  Lake  George  on  the 
I  ether.    This  garrison,  which  was  well  prepared  for  attack,  and 
I  almost  impregnable  from  situation,  was  defended  by  between 
four  and  five  thousand  men.     An  engineer  sent  to  reconnoiter 
was  of  opinion  that  it  might  be  attacked  without  waiting  for  the 
artillery.    The  fatal  resolution  was  taken  without  consulting 
I  those  who  were  best  qualified  to  judge. 

"  I  can  not  enter  into  the  dreadful  detail  of  what  followed. 
I  Certainly  never  was  infatuation  equal  to  this.    The  forty-second 
raiment  was  then  in  the  height  of  deserved  reputation,  and 
commanded  by  a  veteran  of  great  experience  and  military  skill. 
Col.  Gordon  Graham,  who  had  the  first  point  of  attack  assigned 
to  him.    He  was  wounded  at  the  first  onset,  and  of  the  sur- 
TiTors,  every  ofiEicer  retired  wounded  off  the  field.     Of  the  fifty- 
fifth  regiment,  ten  officers  were  killed,  including  all  the  field 
h^oers.    No  human  beings  could  show  more  determined  cour- 
tge  than  this  brave  army  did — standing  four  hours  under  a 
I  constant  discharge  of  cannon  and  musketry  from  barricades,  on 

26 


M 


,02 


WHITBHALL   TO    ROUSE  8    POINT. 


which  it  was  impossible  for  them  to  make  the  least  impression. 
Gen.  Abercrombie  saw  the  fruitless  waste  of  blood  that  wag 
every  hour  increasing,  and  ordered  a  retreat,  which  was  very 
precipitate ;  so  much  so,  that  they  crossed  the  lake,  and  re- 
gained their  camp  on  the  other  side,  the  same  night.  Two 
thousand  men  were  killed,  wounded,  or  taken  in  this  disastrous 
engagement;  which  was,  however,  quickly  succeeded  by  the 
dear-bought  conquest  of  Quebec,  where  fell  both  the  rival  com- 
manders, Wolfe  and  Montcal.m." 

Mount  Bejiancey  about  one  mile  southwest  of  Port  Ticon- 
deroga,  on  the  south  side  of  the  outlet  to  Lake  George,  is  a  bold 
promontory,  elevated  about  800  feet  al30ve  the  level  of  the  lake. 
While  the  ascent  from  the  water  or  eastern  face  is  quite  steep 
and  difficult,  the  approach  from  the  west  is  easy.  It  was  from 
this  quarter  that  Gen.  Burgoyne,  in  1777,  ascended  this  moun- 
tain and  planted  several  pieces  of  artillery— obliging  the  Amer- 
icans to  evacuate  the  fort,  wliich  was  before  considered  almost 
impregnable.  The  top  of  this  eminence  gives  a  grand  view  of 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  surrounding  country,  and  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit,  which  can  easily  be  accomplished  on  foot. 

The  village  of  Ticonderoga,  two  miles  west  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  is  situated  on  the  outlet  of  Lake  George,  where  is  a  thriT- 
ing  settlement,  surrounded  by  picturesque  mountain  scenery. 
One  or  two  miles  farther  west,  on  the  road  to  Lake  George,  is 
situated  another  village,  called  Upper  Ticonderoga t  or  Jllcx- 
afidria.  Here  is  a  most  beautiful  fall  of  water,  affording  im- 
mense hydraulic  power,  a  small  part  of  which  is  only  used  for 
propelling  machinery.  The  steamboat  landing,  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  George,  is  about  one  mile  west  of  the  latter  place,  the 
whole  distance  to  Lake  Champlain  being  four  miles.  The  dis- 
tance to  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  is  86  miles. 

Larabee's  Point,  Yt.,  one  mile  from  the  landing  at  Fort 
Ticonderoga,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  is  a  regular  steam- 
boat landing.  Here  the  lake  expands  from  one  to  two  miles  in 
width. 

Chimney  Point,  nine  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga,  is  also 
another  landing  on  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  although  not  now 
frequented  by  the  steamers. 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSK  8    POINT. 


303 


<*  Here  the  French  commenced  their  first  settlement  upon  the 
lake  in  1731.  When  Crown  Point  fell  ,into  the  hands  of  the 
Enelish,  in  1759,  this  settlement  was  abandoned,  and  the  re- 
mains of  the  chimneys,  which  they  had  erected  in  their  huts, 
probably  suggested  to  the  first  English  settlers  the  name  of 
Chimney  Point,  The  stone  windmill ^  mentioned  by  Kalm  as 
being  one  or  two  musket-shots  to  the  east  of  Fort  Frederick,  and 
as  having  five  or  six  small  cannon  mounted  in  it  in  1749,  and 
which  has  been  supposed  to  have  ^iven  name  to  this  point,  was 
most  probably  at  the  place  opposite,  marked  by  the  ruins  of 
what  is  called  Grenadier's  Battery" 

Crown  Point,  ten  miles  north  of  Ticonderoga,  on  the  west 
Bide*of  Lake  Champlain,  presents  an  intc  ;}sting  appearance 
from  the  water.  The  ruins  of  the  old  fortifications  are  situated 
on  a  neck  of  land  running  into  the  lake ;  the  embankments  are 
Tisible,  and  indicate  an  immense  amount  of  labor  expended  to 
render  this  point  invulnerable  to  an  approaching  foe,  whether 
by  land  or  water ;  yet  it  was  taken  by  surprise  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Revolutionary  struggle. 

"The  French  first  established  themselves  here  in  1731,  and 
erected  a  fort  which  they  called  Fort  St.  Frederick,  from 
Frederick  Maurepas,  the  French  Secretary  of  State.  At  this 
place  the  French  kept  a  garrison,  and  from  it,  during  the 
colonial  wars,  sent  out  their  parties  of  French  and  Indians  to 
destroy  the  frontier  English  settlements  and  massacre  the  in- 
habitants. When  Kalm  visited  this  place  in  1749,  there  was 
considerable  settlement  around  the  fort,  with  well-cultivated 
gardens.  Within  the  fort  was  a  neat  little  church.  The  fort 
was  built  upon  the  brow  of  a  steep  bank  of  the  lake,  but  a  short 
distance  from  the  water,  and  the  remains  of  its  bomb-proof 
covered  way,  ovens,  etc.,  are  still  to  be  seen,  though  in  a  very 
dilapidated  state.  The  small  circle  to  the  southeast  of  this  de- 
notes the  site  of  Grenadier's  Battery,  and  the  two  small  paral- 
lelograms to  the  southwest  of  the  latter  place,  the  situation  of 
two  strong  redoubts. 

"  On  the  approach  of  the  British  army  under  Gen.  Amherst, 
in  1759,  the  French  abarioned  this  fort  and  retired  to  the 
north  end  of  the  lake.  AFJi«^rst  took  immediate  possession,  but 
instead  of  repairing  the  old  works,  began  a  new  fort,  which  was 
called  Crown  Point,  about  2C0  yards  to  the  southwest,  on  higher 
and  more  commanding  ground.  This  fort  was  never  completed, 
as  is  evident  from  an  examination  of  the  ditch,  glacis,  etc.,  at 
the  present  day,  although  it  has  been  said  that  the  British 
government  expendt  I  here  no  less  than  £2,000,000  sterling. 


i 


iV 


304 


WHITEHALL   TO    R0U8K  8    POINT. 


(< 


This  fort  was  taken  by  surprise  by  a  partv  of  Green  Mouu- 
tain  Boys,  under  Seth  Warner,  on  the  same  day  that  Ticonde* 
roga  surrendered  to  Ethan  Allen. 

"  The  width  of  the  peninsula  upon  which  these  works  stood  is 
one  mile,  and  is  in  no  part  much  elevated  above  the  site  of  tlie 
principal  fort,  but  there  is  a  considerable  mountain  on  the  west 
side  of  Bulwagga  Bay,  the  nearest  summit  of  which  is  only  ]\ 
miles  from  the  fort,  and  elevated  400  feet  above  it.  The  highest 
is  distant  2|  miles,  and  elevated  900  feet.  The  whole  peninsula 
is  made  up  of  dark  limestone,  covered  in  most  parts  with  only 
a  slight  depth  of  earth,  so  that  works  upon  it  can  not  be  assailed 
by  regular  advances.  The  width  between  Crown  Point  and 
Chimney  Point  is  only  about  half  a  mile.  From  Crown  Point 
to  Split  Rock  the  average  width  of  the  lake  is  about  three  and 
a  half  miles." 

Port  Henry,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  is  situated  on 
Cedar  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  Bui  wag ga  Bay,  which  separates 
Crown  Point  from  the  mainland.  Here  are  the  works  of  the 
Port  Henry  Iron  Company,  with  iron  ore  of  good  qutvlity  in 
the  vicinity 

Westport,  60  miles  north  of  Whitehall,  is  situated  on 
Northwest  Bay,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain.  It  con- 
tains 700  or  800  inhabitants,  and  is  a  thriving  place.  A  horse 
ferry-boat  here  plies  across  the  lake,  running  to  Basin  Harbor, 
Vermont. 

Ba-sin  Harbor,  one  of  the  best  on  the  lake,  is  in  the  town 
ot  Ferrisburgh,  Vt.,  and  is  five  miles  west  from  the  city  of 
Vergennes,  and  is  the  landing  for  it 

Fort  Cassin,  three  miles  north  of  Basin  Harbor,  aud  on  the 
north  side  of  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  was  formerly  a  landing 
place  of  passengers  for  Vergennes.  It  is  eight  miles  from  tho 
city  of  Vergennes,  where  Macdonough's  fleet  was  fitted  out,  with 
which  he  gained  his  victory.  Fort  Cassin  takes  its  name  from 
Lieut.  Cassin,  of  the  navy,  who,  with  a  small  breastwork  at  iHls 
place,  and  less  than  200  men,  commanded  by  himself  and  Capt. 
Thornton,  of  the  artillery,  on  the  14th  of  May,  1814,  repulsed 
a  large  British  force  in  an  attempt  to  enter  the  creek  for  the 
purpose  of  destroying  the  American  flotilla  before  it  should  he 
ready  for  service. 


INT. 


WHITEHALL   TO    ROUSE  S   POINT. 


303 


:ty  of  Green  Mouu- 
I  day  that  Tlconde* 

these  works  stood  is 
bovo  the  site  of  the 
Duntain  on  the  west 
of  which  is  only  ]\ 
ive  it.  The  hi{5lie8t 
^he  whole  peninsula 
ost  parts  with  only 
can  not  be  assailwi 
Crown  Point  an'l 
From  Crown  Point 
s  is  about  three  and 


lake,  is  situated  on 

af/i  which  separates 

•e  the  works  of  the 

of  good  qutvlityin 

Eill,  is  situated  on 
Ihamplain.  It  con* 
ng  place.  A  horse 
ig  to  Basin  Harbor, 

lake,  is  in  the  town 
from  the  city  of 

[arbor,  aiid  on  the 
formerly  a  landing 
Ight  miles  from  tho 
as  fitted  out,  with 
ikes  its  name  from 
breastwork  at  this 
himself  and  Capt. 
[ay,  1814,  repulsed 
the  creek  for  the 
)fore  it  should  he 


Split  Rock  has  been  regarded  as  one  of  the  greatest  natural 
cariosities  on  the  lake,  and  is  one  which  did  not  escape  the 
notice  of  the  earliest  French  explorers.  Backer Fendu  occupies 
ft  conspicuous  place  on  Charlevoix's  map  of  1744.  The  part  de- 
tftched  contams  about  half  an  acre,  rises  about  80  foffi  mbore 
the  water,  is  covered  with  bushes,  and  is  separated  about  twelve 
feet  from  the  main  rock.  Some  have  supposed  the  chasm  to 
have  been  produced  by  the  breaking  off  of  tho  pit^montory  in 
consequence  of  being  undermined  by  the  lake,  or  by  some  great 
convulsion  of  nature.  But  the  slightest  examination  shows  that 
the  rocky  point  was  here  originally  crossed  by  what  geologists 
call  a  dike,  the  materials  of  which  have  been  washed  out,  form- 
ing a  chasm  in  the  more  solid  rock,  through  which  the  lake 
flows  when  high.  The  chasm,  instead  of  being  unfathomable, 
as  some  have  represented,  is  so  shallow  that  no  water  flows 
through  when  the  lake  is  low.  A  few  rods  south  of  Split  Rock 
stands  a  light-house.  The  width  of  the  lake  between  Split 
Rock  and  Thompson's  Point  is  only  about  a  mile  From  this 
place  the  width  of  the  lake  increases  toward  the  north,  and  at 
McJVeiPs  Ferry,  between  Charlotte  landing  and  the  village  of 
Essex,  it  wants  20  rods  of  three  miles. 

The  village  of  Essex,  61  miles  from  Whitehall,  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  opposite 
Charlotte  Landing,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  horse 
ferry-boat.  Population  about  700.  The  lake  here  expands  to 
three  or  four  miles  in  width,  and  presents  a  large  expanse  of 
water  toward  the  north.  The  Green  Mountains  of  Vermont, 
and  the  Adirondack  Chroup  of  Essex  County,  are  here  seen 
stretching  north  and  south  in  va9t  Tuountain  peaks  and  ridges. 
The  CameVa  Hump,  being  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  for- 
mer, is  overlooked  by  Mount  Marcy,  on  the  New  York  side  of 
the  lake,  the  latter  baing  elevated  6,467  feet,  or  upward  of  one 
mile  above  the  tide  watf^ri  of  the  Hudson;  and  near  it  this 
noble  river  has  its  most  northern  source. 

Four  Brothers  are  four  small  islands  lying  about  seven 
iniles  south'o^est  from  Burlington,  and  being  out  of  the  usual 

2e* 


306 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSe's    POINT. 


r     I 


!'    If 


ii, 


line  of  navigation,  they  are  resortiKl  to  by  gulls  and  other 
wator-fowl  for  the  purpose  of  raising  their  young.  On  Charle- 
Toil's  map  of  1744  they  are  calM  Jsle  de  Quatre  Vents. 

Juniper  Island  lies  about  three  miles  southwest  from  Bur- 
lington—is composed  of  slate  rock,  with  precipitous  banks 
about  thirty  feet  high,  and  covered  with  about  a  dozen  acres  of 
good  soil.     A  light-house  was  erected  here  in  1826. 

Rock  Dunder  is  a  solitary  rock  rising  out  of  the  water,  be- 
tween Juniper  Island  and  Pottier's  Point,  to  the  height  of  about 
thirty  feet. 

Bttrlington,  Vt.,  76  miles  from  Whitehall,  25  miles  from 
Plattsburgh,  and  50  miles  from  Rouse's  Point  by  steamboat 
route,  is  delightfully  situated  on  Burlington  Bay,  on  the  east 
shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  is  the  most  important  place  in 
the  State.  It  possesses  a  convenient  and  safe  harbor  for  steam- 
boats and  lake  craft.  The  United  States  government  have  here 
erected  a  breakwater,  which  protects  the  shipping  from  westerly 
winds,  and  is  a  great  addition  to  the  security  of  the  harbor. 
In  1850  it  contained  a  population  of  6,110  inhabitants;  the 
University  of  Vermont,  founded  in  1791,  occupying  four  spa- 
cious edifices,  and  having  a  medical  school  attached  to  it ;  the 
Episcopal  institute,  a  court-house  and  jail,  eight  churches  of 
different  denominations,  an  academy,  and  two  female  semina- 
ries; three  banking-houses,  several  well-kept  hotels,  and  a 
number  of  stores  of  diflferent  kinds,  besides  several  factories 
and  mills,  and  almost  every  k?'nd  of  mechanic  establishments 
About  1 J  miles  distant,  on  the  falls  of  the  Onion  River,  is  a 
thriving  manufacturing  place  called  Winooski,  where  are  lo- 
cated several  large  factories  and  mills. 

Burlington  is,  no  doubt,  destined  rapidly  to  increase  in  wealth 
and  population,  froixi  the  fact  of  here  centering  several  impor- 
tant lines  of  railroad  travel,  extending  from  Boston  by  two 
routes,  through  Montpelier  and  through  Rutland.  This  rail- 
road and  steamboat  conununication  extends  across  Lake  Cham- 
plain  to  Plattsburgh  and  Rouse's  Point,  running  north  to 
Montreal,  Canada,  and  west  to  Ogdensbnrgh,  N.  Y. 


INT. 


7  gulls  and  other 
aung.  On  Charle- 
latre  Vents. 
uthwcst  from  Bur- 
precipitous  banks 
at  a  dozen  acres  of 
1 1826. 

Lt  of  the  water,  be- 
the  height  of  about 

all,  25  miles  from 
oint  by  steamboat 
1  Bay,  on  the  east 
important  place  in 
B  harbor  for  steam- 
rernment  have  here 
)ping  from  westerly 
rity  of  the  harbor. 
0  inhabitn,nts ;  the 
3cupying  four  spa- 
ittached  to  it ;  the 

eight  churches  of 
wo  female  semina- 
ept  hotels,  and  a 
s  several  factories 
lio  establishments 

Onion  Riyer,  is  a 
iskif  where  are  lo- 

increase  in  wealth 
ing  several  impor- 
>m  Boston  by  two 
tland.  This  rail- 
icross  Lake  Cham- 
running  north  to 
N.  Y. 


S  o 

ti  ^ 

Sd 

o  o 


n 


3 


CO  > 

H  at 

a  ^ 

o  0 

5  w 

M  Q 

o  o 

*  3 

a  <1 


i< 


308 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSE  S    POINT. 


Its  advantages  are  now  great,  and  its  situation  most  beauti- 
ful, overlooking  the  lake,  with  its  bays,  islands,  and  adjacen 
scenery — the  passing  steamboats  and  other  vessels — and  pog. 
sesses  a  beauty  of  location  probably  unsurpassed  by  any  other 
place  in  the  Union.  In  trade  and  commerce  it  is  closely  allied 
with  the  interests  of  the  State  of  New  York.  Steamboats  stop 
here  daily  on  their  route  from  Whitehall  to  Rouse's  Point ;  a 
steamboat  also  plies  from  this  place  to  Port  Kent,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  lake,  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  and  thence  to 
Plattsburgh,  25  miles. 

The  principal  hotels  in  Burlington  are  the  American  Hotel, 
the  Exchange  Hotel,  and  the  Howard  House. 

Travelers  wishing  to  visit  Mansfield  Mountain ^  20  miles 
northeast  of  Burlington,  or  the  CameVs  Hump,  in  the  toini 
of  Huntington,  about  the  same  distance  in  a  southeast  direc- 
tion, can  easily  obtain  conveyances  to  either  of  the  above  ro- 
mantic resorts.  From  the  summit  of  both  are  obtained  beau- 
tiful and  sublime  views  of  the  surrounding  country  and  Lake 
Champlain,  said  to  fully  equal  the  prospect  from  the  White 
Mountains  of  New  Hampshire.  The  Vermont  Central  Railroad 
route,  between  Burlington,  Montpelier,  and  Windsor,  runs  near 
the  base  of  the  latter  mountain. 

The  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  about  120  miles 
east  of  Burlington,  are  reached  from  this  place  by  railroad  and 
stage,  passing  over  the  Vermont  Central  Railroad  to  Whit"! 
River  Junction,  and  from  thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Connecti- 
cut River  to  Wells'  River,  where  commences  the  White  Mount- 
ain Railroad,  extending  to  Littleton,  N.  H.  From  Littleton 
stages  run  to  the  Notch  of  the  White  Mountains,  a  farther 
distance  of  20  miles.  This  line  of  travel  can  be  extended 
through  to  Portland,  Me.,  passing  over  a  romantic  section  of 
country. 

Port  Kent  is  advantageously  situated  on  the  west  side  of 
Litke  Champlain,  12  miles  south  of  the  village  of  Plattsburgh. 
It  contains  about  400  inhabitants,  50  dwelling-houses,  one 
church,  two  taverns,  three  stores,  and  two  warehouses.   The 


WHITBHALL   TO    ROUSE  8    POINT. 


309 


e  the  American  Hotel, 


site  of  this  place  is  beautiful,  commanding  one  of  the  finest 
views  on  Champlain,  extending  to  the  opposite  shore  of  Vermont. 
It  is  contemplated  to  construct  a  railroad  from  Port  Kent  to 
the  Au  Sable  Forks,  a  distance  of  16  miles,  passing  through 
I  the  villages  of  Keeseville  and  Glintonyille. 

Immediately  south  of  the  landing  at  Port  Kent  lies  Tremble  u 
I  Pointy  the  commencement  of  the  Clinton  range  of  mountains. 

KEES'=!vii,iiE,  situated  on  both  sides  df  the  Au  Sable  River,  is 
I  four  miles  west  of  Port  Kent.  It  contains  about  8,000  inhab- 
itants, 400  dwelling-houses,  one  Congregational,  one  Baptist, 
one  Methodist,  and  one  Roman  Catholic  church;  an  incorpo- 
rated academy,  one  banking-house,  two  taverns,  and  20  stores 
and  groceries.  The  water-power  at  this  place  is  very  great, 
riud  advantageously  used  by  several  extensive  manufacturing 
establishments.  There  are  two  fiouring-mills,  four  extensive 
siw-mills,  which  make  annually  about  half  a  million  of  market 
boards,  an  iron  foundry,  one  furnace,  and  a  machine-shop,  to- 
I  gather  with  most  other  kinds  of  mechanic  workshops. 

At  Birmingham,  two  miles  below  Keeseville,  is  a  succession 
I  of  picturesque  falls,  in  all  about  150  feet  descent.  Immediately 
below  the  lower  falls  the  river  enters  a  deep  ravine  of  singular 
and  romantic  beauty.  Through  the  chasm  thus  formed  by  the 
wearing  of  the  waters,  or  some  convulsion  of  nature,  the  rocks 
{rise  from  75  to  150  feet,  almost  perpendicular,  for  a  distance  of 
about  two  miles,  averaging  about  50  feet  in  width,  altogether 
fonning  a  great  natural  curiosity.  In  addition  io  the  above, 
[there  are  other  ravines  in  this  vicinity  of  singular  formation 

Fi'om  Port  Kent  to  Plattsburgh  the  course  is  along  the  west- 
jem  shore  of  the  lake,  passing  several  islands. 

Port  Jackson,  the  only  intermediate  landing  place,  is  nearly 
Iwest  of  the  south  end  of  Valeour  Island^  noted  for  a  severe 
naval  conflict,  on  the  11th  of  October,  1776,  between  the  Amer- 
liean  flotilla  under  General  Arnold,  and  the  British  under  Capt. 
|Prindle.    The  battle  was  fought  a  little  north  of  Port  Jackson. 

"  Five  or  six  miles  nearly  east  from  Port  Jackson  was  the 
iKcne  of  the  conflagration  of  the  steamer  Phoenix  on  the  5th  of 


m..^. 


M 


■i    -«•:.« 


.■■'^1 

^^^'^1..; 


lil 


310 


WHITEHALL   TO   HOUSE  8   POINT. 


Septer  *.ber,  1819.  On  the  morning  of  the  accident,  the  Phoenix 
left  Burlington  about  one  o'clock,  against  a  strong  north  wind. 
About  3  o'clock,  while  oflf  nearly  west  of  the  south  end  of 
Grand  Isle,  the  boat  was  discovered  to  be  on  fire,  and  all  efforts 
to  extinguish  it  were  unavailing.  There  were  at  this  time  44 
persons  on  board,  31  of  whom  entered  the  small  boats,  and  sue* 
ceeded,  mth  considerable  difficulty,  in  reaching  a  small  island 
about  a  mile  to  the  windward,  called  Providence  Island.  The 
remaining  13  were  soon  obliged  to  commit  themselves  to  the 
water  upon  bits  of  plank  and  such  other  things  as  were  within 
their  reach.  The  small  boats  returned  just  after  daylight,  and 
succeeded  in  saving  six  of  those  who  had  managed  to  keep  them- 
selves afloat.  The  remaining  seven  were  drowned.  The  wreck 
drifted  southward  and  lodged  on  a  reef  extending  from  Colches- 
ter Point.  This  is  the  only  accident  worthy  of  notice  which  has 
occurred  during  46  years  of  steam  navigation  on  this  lake." 

Plattsburgh,  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y.,  is  situated  on  both  sides  I 
of  the  Saranac  River,  100  miles  north  of  Whitehall  and  25  miles 
south  of  Rouse's  Point  by  steamboat  route     It  was  incorporated 
as  a  village  in  1815,  and  now  contains  about  4,000  inhabitants  J 
500  dwelling-houses,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  county  clerk's  | 
office ;  a  town-hall,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Episcopal,  one  Meth- 
odist, and  two  Roman  Catholic  churches ;  an  incorporated  acad- 
emy, 50  stores  of  different  kinds,  and  six  public  houses,  the  I 
principal  of  which  are  the  Cumberland  House  and  Fouquet's 
Hotel ;  two  banks  and  one  insurance  office.    Here  are  situated, 
on  the  Saranac,  using  water-power,  two  flouring-mills,  one 
woolen  factory,  one  fulling-mill,  two  saw-mills,  two  machine- 1 
shops,  and  one  foundry  ;  there  are  also  two  tanneries,  one  so 
manufactory,  three  printing-offices,  together  with  almost  every  I 
other  kind  of  mechanic  workshops.     The  water-power  at  this 
place  is  very  great,  the  Saranac  River  here  having  a  succession 
of  falls,  making  a  total  descent  of  about  40  feet.    The  sor-j 
rounding  country  is  rich  in  agricultural  and  mineral  produc- 
tions ;  iron  ore  of  fine  quality  is  procured  in  different  part«(rf| 
the  county.     This  is  also  a  United  States  military  post,  where 
the  government  has  erected  extensive  stone  barracks,  near  the! 
lake  shore,  and  a  permanent  breakwater  for  the  protection  (^| 
the  harbor  in  Cumberland  Bay 


>OINT. 

ccident,  the  Phoenix] 
i  strong  north  wind. 
r  the  south  end  of 
a  fire,  and  all  efforts  | 
prere  at  this  time  44 
mall  boats,  and  sue* 
shing  a  small  island 
idence  Island.    The] 
it  themselves  to  the 
lings  as  were  within 
t  after  daylight,  and  ] 
Einaged  to  keep  them- 
rowned.    The  wreck 
ending  from  Colches- 
y  of  notice  which  has  I 
tion  on  this  lake."     ' 

tuated  on  both  sides 
hitehall  and  25  miles 
It  was  incorporated 
ut  4,000  inhabitants, 
,  and  county  clerk's 
Episcopal,  one  Meth* 
in  incorporated  acad- 
x.  public  houses,  the 
louse  and  Fouquet's 
Here  are  situated, 
flouring-mill3,  one 
mills,  two  machine- 
0  tanneries,  one  soap 
ler  with  almost  every 
water-power  at  this 
e  having  a  succession 
40  feet.    The  sur- 
and  mineral  produc- 
indifferent  part*  of  I 
military  post,  where] 
Le  barracks,  near  the| 
for  the  protection  of 


WHITKHALL    TO    ROUSE'8    POINT. 


311 


Steamers  run  daily,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  from 
Plattsburgh  to  Burlington  and  Whitehall  on  the  south,  and  to 
St.  Albans  and  Rouse's  Point  on  the  north,  connecting  with 
different  railroads.  The  Plattsburgh  and  Montreal  Railroad 
Ditends  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Mooer's  Junction,  and  thence 
across  the  Canada  line  to  Caughnawaga  and  Montreal,  a  total 
I  distance  of  62  miles. 

RAILROAD  ROUTE  FROM  PLATTSBURGH  TO  MONTREAL. 
Stations.                                                 Miles.               Total  Miles. 
Plat  rsBURGK 0     0 

WestChazy 10     10 

Mooer's  Junction 10     20 

Hemingford,  Canada 6     26 

St.  Remi 16     41 

Caughnawaga.  . . .  •. 11     52 

La  Chine 2     64 

MONTHKAL 8       62 

Usual  Time,  three  hours.    Fare,  $2  10. 

Plattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  an  important  engagement  be- 
jtween  the  British  and  American  armies,  in  September,  1814, 
which  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  the  British,  under  the  command 
of  Sir  George  Prevost,  and  the  capture  of  the  British  fleet  under 
Com.  Downie,  who  was  killed  in  the  action.  The  American 
army  was  commanded  by  Maj.  Gen.  Macomb,  and  the  fleet  by 
Com.  McDonough. 


m 


NAVAL  ENGAGEMENT  AND  BATTLE  OF  PLATTSBURGH, 

SEPT.  U,  1814. 

Cpifd/ram  Paltnsr^»  "History  of  Lake  Champlain." 

"When  the  British  army  reached  Plattsburgh,  their  gun- 
Iboats  had  advanced  as  far  as  the  Isle  La  Motte,  where  they 
pmained,  under  command  of  Capt.  Pring.  On  the  8th  Sept., 
I  Captain  Downie  reached  that  place  with  the  rest  of  the  fleet, 
land  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  the  whole  weighed  anchor  and 
Utood  south  to  attack  the  Americans,  who  lay  in  Cumberland 
IB&y.offPlattsburKh. 

'^As  the  Britiw  vessels  rounded  Cumberland  Head,  about 


s         


312 


NAVAL    BATTLE    OF    PLATTSBURGH. 


%  "if 


eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  they  found  McDonough  at  anchof 
a  little  south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  River,  and  abreast,  | 
but  out  of  gun-shot,  of  the  forts.  His  vessels  lay  in  a  line  run- 
ning north  from  Crab  Island,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  west  I 
shore.  The  brig  Eagle,  Captain  Henley,  lay  at  the  head  of  the 
line,  inside  the  point  of  the  Head.  This  vessel  mounted  twenty 
guns  and  had  on  board  one  hundred  and  fifty  men.  Next  to  | 
her,  and  on  the  south,  lay  McDonough's  flag-ship,  the  Saratoga, 
mounting  twenty-six  guns,  with  two  hundred  and  twelve  men. 
Next  south  was  the  schooner  Ticonderoga,  of  seventeen  guns, 
Lieutenant  Cassin,  with  one  hundred  and  ten  men,  and  next  to 
her,  and  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  line,  lay  the  sloop 
Preble,  Lieutenant  Charles  Budd.  This  vessel  carried  seven 
guns,  and  was  manned  by  thirty  men.  She  lay  so  near  the 
shoal  extending  northeast  from  Crab  Island,  as  to  prevent  the 
enemy  from  turning  that  end  of  the  line.  To  the  rear  of  the 
line  were  ten  gun-boats,  six  of  which  mounted  one  long  twenty- 
four  pounder,  and  one  eighteen  pound  Columbiad  each;  the 
other  four  carried  one  twelve  pounder.  -The  gun-boats  had,  on 
an  average,  thirty-five  men  each.  Two  of  the  gun-boats  lay  a 
little  north  and  in  rear  of  the  Eagle,  to  sustain  the  head  of  the 
line ;  the  others  were  placed  opposite  the  intervals  between  the 
different  vessels,  and  about  forty  rods  to  their  rear.  The  larger 
vessels  were  at  anchor,  while  the  gun-boats  were  kept  in  posi- 
tion by  their  sweeps. 

"  The  British  fleet  was  composed  of  the  frigate  Conjianee, 
carrying  thirty-seven  guns,*  with  over  three  hundred  men. 
commanded  by  Captain  Downie;  the  brig  Linnet,  Captain 
Pring,  of  sixteen  guns  and  120  men;  the  sloop  Chub,  Lieutenant 
McQhee,  and  the  sloop  Finch,  Lieutenant  Hicks,  carrying  eleyen 
guns  and  about  forty-five  men  each.  To  these  vessels  were 
added  twelve  gun-boats  of  about  forty-five  men  each.  Eight  of 
them  carried  two  guns,  and  four  one  gun  each.  Thus  the  force 
of  the  Americans  consisted  of  one  ship,  one  brig,  one  schooner, 
one  sloop,  and  ten  gun-boats,  manned  by  eight  hundred  and 
eighty-two  men,  and  carrying  in  all  eighty-six  guns.  The 
British  had  one  frigate,  one  brig,  two  sloops,  and  twelve  gun- 
boats, manned  by  over  one  thousand  men,  and  carrying  in  all 
ninety -five  guns.  The  metal  of  the  vessels  on  both  sides  was 
unusually  heavy.  The  Saratoga  mounted  eight  long  twenty- 
fours,  six  forty-twos,  and  twelve  thirty-twos,  while  the  Con- 
fiance  had  the  gun-deck  of  a  heavy  frigate,  with  thirty  long 
twenty-fours  upon  it.  She  also  had  a  spacious  topgallant  fore- 
castle, and  a  poop  that  came  no  farther  forward  than  the  mizen 


*  There  were  thirty-nine  guns  on  board  the  Gonflanoe,  but  two  of  then 
were  not  mounted.— 0>^7>fli*. 


m 


NAVAL    BATTLE    OF    PLATTSBUROH. 


313 


last.    On  the  first  were  a  long  twenty-four  on  a  circle,  and 
jfoiir  heavy  carronades ;  tw(^  heavy  carronades  were  mounted  on 
ie  poop. 

"  When  the  British  fleet  appeared  in  sight,  the  Finch  led  and 
i[ept  in  a  course  toward  Crab  Island,  while  the  other  vessels 
tiove  to  opposite  the  point  of  Cumberland  Head,  to  allo^^'  the 
i-boats  to  come  up,  and  to  receive  final  instructions  as  ^  the^ 
plan  of  attack.  The  vessels  th^  filled  and  headed  in  toward 
the  American  fleet,  prising  inside  of  the  point  of  Cumberland 
iHead ;  the  Chub  laying  her  course  a  little  to  windward  of  the 
[Eagle,  in  order  to  support  the  Linnet,  which  stood  directly  to- 
Iward  that  vessel.  Captain  Downie  had  determined  to  lay  the 
IConfiance  athwart  the  Saratoga.,  but  the  wind  bafflins,  he  was 
lobliged  to  anchor  at  about  two  cables'  length  from  that  ship. 
IThe  Finch,  which  had  run  about  half  way  to  Crab  T-rland,  tacked' 
land  took  her  station,  with  the  gun-boats,  opposite  the  Ticonde- 
|roga  and  Preble. 

"As  the  British  vessels  approached  they  received  the  fire  of 
I  the  American  fleet;  the  brig  Eagle  firing  first,  and  being  soon\ 
followed  by  the  Saratoga,  and  the  sloop  and  schooner.*    The 
Linnet  poured  her  broadside  i^to  the  Saratoga  as  she  passed 
that  ship  to  take  her  position  opposite  the  Eagle.     Captaini 
Downie  brought  his  vessel  into  action  in  the  most  gallant  man- 
ner, and  did  not  fire  a  gun  until  he  was  perfectly  secured,, 
although  his  vessel  suffered  severe!    from  the  fire  of  the  Ameri- 
cans    As  soon,  however,  as  the  L^nfiance  had  been  brought 
into  position,  she  discharged  all  her  larboard  gans,  at  i?early 
the  same  instant.    The  eflfecfc  of  this  broadside,  thrown  fromi 
long  twenty-four  pounders,  double  shotted,  in  smooth  waterj. 
was  terrible.    The  Saratoga  trembled  to  her  very  keel ;  about 
forty  of  her  crew  were  disabled,  including  her  first  Lieutenant). 
]  Mr.  Gamble,  who  was  killed  while  sighting  the  bow-gun. 

"  Soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  engagement,  the  Chub, 

j  while  maneuvering  near  the  head  of  the  American  line,  received' 

ja  broadside  from  the  Eagle,  which  so  crippled  her  that  she- 

{ drifted  down  between  the  opposing  vessels  and  struck.     She  was ' 

taken  possession  of  by  Mr.  Charles  Piatt,  on^  of  the  Saratoga's 

midshipmen,  and  was  towed  in  shore  and  anchored.     The  Chub » 


iflanoe,  bat  two  of  tboa 


*Tlie  first  gun  fired  on  board  the  Saratoga  was  a  long  twenty-four,, 
whioh  McDonough  himself  sighted.     The  shot  is  said  to  have  struck  the 
Conflanoe  near  the  outer  hawse-hole,  and  to  have  passed  the  length  ofher* 
Jeck,  killing  and  wounding  several  men,  and  carrying  away  the  wheel. 
In  clearing  the  decks  of  the  Saratoga^some  hen  coops  were  thrown  over-- 
ward,  and  the  poultry  permitted  to  run  at  large.    Star  led  by  the  report 
of  tbe  opening  gun  of  the  Eagle,  a  young  cock  flew  upon  a  gun.  Mide, 
dtpped  his  wings  and  crowec'.    The  men  gave  three  cheers,  and  consid^ 
wed  the  little  incidence  as  a  happy  omen.— Cooper's  Naval  nUiory  and 
A'iki' Register. 

27 


i 


4  "^^ 


314 


NAVAL    BATTLE    OF    PLATTSBURGil. 


iJ' 


l» 


'i^ 


pv; 


ii 


had  suffered  severely;  nearly  half  of  her  men  Having  be(Mi| 
killed  or  wounded.  About  an  hour,  later  the  Finch  was  driven! 
from  her  position  by  the  Ticonderoga,  and,  bo'-g  badly  injured,! 
drifted  upon  the  shoal  near  Crab  Island,  ■w^.j*e  she  grounded.! 
After  being  fired  into  from  the  small  battery  on  the  island,  she! 
struck,  and  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  invalids  who  manned! 
the  battery.* 

**  After  the  loss  of  the  Finch,  the  British  gun-boats  made| 
several  efforts  to  close,  and  succeeded  in  compelling  the  slo 
Preble  to  cut  her  cables  and  to  anchor  in  shore  of  the  line,} 
where  she  was  of  no  more  service  during  the  engagement.  The! 
gun  boats,  emboldened  by  this  success,  now  directed  their  efforul 
toward  the  Ticonderoga,  against  which  they  made  several  very| 
gallant  assaults,  bringing  the  boats,  upon  two  or  three  occa- 
sions, within  a  few  feet  of  the  schooner's  side.  They  were,  how- 
ever, as  often  beaten  back,  and  the  schooner,  during  the  re-l 
mainder  of  the  day,  completely  covered  that  extremity  of  the  line. 

"  While  these  changes  were  taking  place  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  line,  a  change  was  .ilso  made  at  the  other  extremity.    The  I 
Eagle,  having  lost  her  springs,  and  finding  herself  exposed  to 
the  fire  of  both  the  Linnet  and  Confiance,  dropped  down  and 
anchored  between  the  Saratoga  and  Ticonderoga,  and  a  little  in| 
shore  of  both.    From  this  position  she  opened  afresh  on  the  Con- 
fiance  and  the  British  gun-boats,  with  her  larboard  guns.    Tbisl 
change  relieved  the  brig,  but  left  the  Saratoga  exposed  to  thel 
whole  fire  of  the  Linnet,  which  sprung  her  broadsides  in  such  a] 
manner  as  to  rake  the  ship  on  her  bows, 

"  The  fire  from  the  Saratoga  and  Confiance  now  began  mate- 
rially to  lessen,  as  gun  after  gun  on  both  vessels  became  dis- 
abled, until  at  last  the  Saratoga  had  not  a  single  available  gun,  I 
and  the  Confiance  was  but  little  better  oflF.    It  therefore  became 
necessary  that  both  vessels  should  wind,  to  continue  the  action] 
with  any  success.    This  the  Saratoga  did  after  considerable  de- 
lay, but  the  Confiance  was  less  fortunate,  as  the  only  effect  of  | 
ner  efforts  was  to  force  the  vessel  ahead.     As  soon  as  the  Sara- 


♦  Mr.  Alison  (History  of  England,  vol.  4),  referring  to  this  event,  says: 
"The  Finch,  a  British. 6Hfl',  grounded  out  of  shot  and  did  not  engage n 
and  again,  "  The  Finch  struck  on  a  reef  of  roclcs  and  could  not  get  intol 
action."  Had  Mr.  Alison  taken  the  trouble  to  read  Capt  Pring's  official 
account  of  the  engagement,  he  would  have  found  in  it  the  following  staie- 
ment :  "  Lieutenant  Hicks,  of  the  Finch,  had  the  mortification  to  strilte  on 
a!  reef  of  rocks,  to  the  eastward  of  Crab  Island,  about  the  middle  of  the  en- 
gagement, which  prevented  his  rendering  that  assistance  to  the  squadron 
that  might,  from  an  officer  of  such  ability,  nave  been  expected."  It  is  very 
convenient  for  the  English  historian  to  convert  a  small  sloop  of  eleren 
guns  and  forty  men  into  a  briff^  and  to  keep  that  large  vessel  out  of  the 
action  altogether,  but,  as  I  have  before  said,  such  statements  are  unneces- 
sary to  preserve  the  well-earned  reputation  of  the  British  navy  for  braverj  j 
>  or  gallantry  in  action. 


SBUROII. 


NAVAL    BATTLE    OF   PLATTSBUROH. 


315 


?*■' 


er  men  Haying  beeii| 
the  Finch  was  driven! 
,  br--g  badly  injured,! 
v^.j*e  Bhe  groundeil 
ery  on  the  island,  she! 
invalids  who  manned! 

itish  gun-boats  madel 
compelling  the  sloopl 

in  shore  of  the  line,! 
;he  engagement.    The| 
f  direct^  their  efforul 
ey  made  several  veryj 
Q  two  or  three  occa- 
de.    They  were ,  how- 1 
►oner,  during  the  ^^ 
k  extremity  of  the  line.! 
le  at  the  lower  end  off 
ther  extremity.    The 
ng  herself  exposed  to 
e,  dropped  down  and 
ieroga,  and  a  little  in 
led  afresh  on  the  Con- 
larboard  guns.    This 
ratoga  exposed  to  the 

broadsides  in  such  a] 

nee  now  began  mate- 
1  vessels  became  dis-j 
single  available  gun, 

It  therefore  became 
0  continue  the  action 
ifter  considerable  de- 

as  the  only  effect  of  | 
As  soon  as  the  Sara- 


ring  to  this  event,  says; 
t  and  did  not  engaffen 

and  could  not  get  into 
ad  Capt  Pring'8  olBclal 
in  it  the  following  staie- 
nortiflcation  to  strike  on  | 
mt  the  middle  of  the  en- 

istance  to  the  squadron  I 
m  expected."    It  is  very 
small  sloop  of  elerei 
t  large  vessel  out  of  tbe 

itatements  are  nnnece»-l 

ritish  navy  for  braverjl 


came  around  she  poured  a  fresh  broadside  from  her  lar- 

ird  guns  into  the  Confiance,  which  stood  the  fire  for  a  few 

^utes  and  then  struck.     The  ship  then  brought  her  guns  to 

ir  on  the  Linnet,  which  surrendered  in  about  fifteen  minutes 

erward.     At  this  time  the  British  pun-boats  lay  half  a  mile 

1  ie  rear,  where  they  had  been  driven  by  the  sharp  fire  of  the 

ficmideroga  and  Eagle.     These  boats  lowered  their  colors  as 

on  as  they  found  the  larger  vessels  had  submitted ;  but  not 

eing  pursued,  for  the  American  gun-boats  were  sent  to  aid 

ke  Confiance  and  Linnet,  which  were  reported  to  be  in  a  sink- 

^  condition,  they  escaped,  together  with  a  store  sloop,  which 

Ly  near  the  point  of  Cumberland  Head  during  the  battle. 

The  engagement  continued  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  and 

fas  the  most  severely  fought  naval  battle  of  the  war.    The 

iratoga  had  twenty-eight  men  killed  and  twenty-nine  wounded ; 

lie  Eagle  thirteen  killed  and  twenty  wounded ;  the  Ticonde- 

six  killed  and  six  wounded,  and  the  Preble  two  killed. 

be  loss  on  the  gun-boats  was  three  killed  and  three  wounded. 

[otal  killed  and  wounded,  one  hundred  and  ten,  being  equal  to 

rery  eighth  man  in  the  fleet.    Besides,  the  Saratoga  had  been 

[ailed  fifty-five  times,  and  was  twice  on  fire;  the  Eagle  was 

lulled  thirty-nine  times!    The  carnage  and  destruction  had 

een  as  great  on  the  other  side.    The  Confiance  had  forty-one 

nen  killed  and  eighty-three  wounded ;  the  Linnet  reported  her 

sualties  at  ten  killed  and  fourteen  wounded,  but  the  killed 

ad  wounded  probably  exceeded  fifty ;  the  Chub  was  reported 

[tsix  killed  and  ten  wounded,  and  the  Fir.oli  at  two  wounded. 

Jo  account  is  given  of  the  loss  on  the  gun-boats,  but  from  their 

jlose  and  severe  contest  with  the  Tic  mderoga,  it  must  have 

en  large.    The  total  of  killed  and  woujided  on  the  British  side 

|ra8  equal  to  at  least  one  fifth  of  the  whole  number  of  men  in 

heir  fleet.     The  Confiance  had  been  huUe  i  one  hundred  and 

pre  times.     So  severe  had  been  the  contest,  that  at  the  close  of 

be  action  there  was  not  a  mast  in  either  fleet  fit  for  use.* 

"  Among  those  killed  on  the  side  of  the  British  were  Captain 

ownie,  who  fell  soon  after  the  action  commenced.  Captain 

Uexauder  Anderson  of  the  Marines,  Midshipman  William  Gunn 

bf  the  Confiance,  and  Lieutenant  William  Paul  and  Boatswain 

fharles  Jackson  of  the  Linnet.    Among  the  wounded  were  IMid- 

bipman  Lee  of  the  Confiance,  Midshipman  John  Sinclair  of  the 


*  I  could  only  look  at  the  enemy's  galleys  going  off,  in  a  shattered  con- 
jlitior ;  for  there  was  not  a  mast  in  either  squadron  that  could  stand  to 
Bke  sail  on ;  the  lower  rigging  being  nearly  all  shot  away,  hung  down 
I  though  it  had  been  just  placed  over  the  mast  he&d.—McDonougfi'g 
art  of  the  Battle.  Our  masts,  yards,  and  sails  were  so  shuttered,  that . 
De  looked  \ike  so  many  bunches  of  matches,  and  the  other  like  a  bundle 
frags. — Letter  o/Mid^ipman  Lee  o  the  Confiance. 


m 


816 


NAVAL    BATTLE    OF    PLATTSBUROH. 


Linnet,  and  Lieutenant  James  McGhee  of  the  Chub.    The  Amerl 
ican  officers  killed  were  Peter  Gamble,  Ist  Lieutenant  of  the! 
Saratoga,  John  Stansbury,  1st  Lieutenant  of  the  TicoDderogaj 
Midshipman  James  M.  Baldwin,  and  Sailing  ATadter  Rogenr 
Carter.     Keferring  to  the  death  of  three  of  these  officers,  Mr. 
Cooper,  in  his  History  of  the  Navy,  says  :  *  Lieutenant  Gamblej 
was  on  his  knees,  sighting  the  bow-gun,  when  a  shot  entere 
the  port,  split  the  quoin,  drove  a  portion  of  it  against  his  breastj 
and  laid  him  dead  on  the  quarter-deck  without  breaking  his 
skin.     Fifteen  minutes  later  one  of  the  American  shot  struck 
the  muzzle  of  a  twenty-four  on  the  Confiance,  dismounted  itJ 
sending  it  bodily  inboard  against  the  groin  of  Captain  DownieJ 
killing  him  also  without  breaking  the  skin.    Lieutenant  Stans-I 
bury  suddenly  disappeared  from  the  bulwarks  forward,  whilel 
superintending  some  duty  with  the  springs  of  the  Ticonderogaj 
Two  days  after  the  action,  his  body  rose  to  the  surface  of  the 
water,  and  it  was  found  that  it  had  been  cut  in  two  by  a  ruiindl 
shot.' 

"  It  is  said  that  scarcely  an  individual  escaped  on  board  of! 
either  the  Confiance  or  Saratoga  without  some  injury.  MacJ 
donough  was  twice  knocked  down ;  once  by  the  spanker-booin,| 
which  was  cut  in  two  by  a  shot,  and  fell  upon  his  back  as  he 
was  bending  his  body  to  sight  a  gun ;  and  again  by  the  head 
of  a  gunner,  which  was  driven  against  him,  and  knocked  himl 
into  the  scuppers.  Mr.  Brum,  the  sailing-master  of  the  Sara-' 
toga,  had  his  clothes  torn  off  by  a  splinter  while  winding  thel 
ship.  Mr.  Vallette,  acting  Lieutenant,  had  a  shot-box,  onl 
which  he  was  standing,  knocked  from  under  his  feet,  and  hel 
too  was  once  knocked  down  by  the  head  of  a  seaman.  Very! 
few  escaped  without  some  accident,  and  it  appears  to  have  beenl 
agreed  on  both  sides,  to  call  no  man  wounded  who  could  keep! 
out  of  the  hospital.*  Midshipman  Lee  of  the  Confiance,  who! 
was  wounded  in  the  action,  thus  describes  the  condition  of  thati 
vessel :  *  The  havoc  on  both  sides  is  dreadful.  I  don't  thinkl 
there  are  more  than  five  of  our  men,  out  of  three  hundred,  buti 
what  are  killed  or  wounded.  Never  was  a  shower  of  hail  sol 
thick  as  the  shot  whistling  about  our  ears.  Were  you  to  seel 
my  jacket,  waistcoat,  and  trowsers,  you  would  be  astonishedl 
how  I  escaped  as  I  did,  fbr  they  are  literally  torn  all  to  ragsl 
with  shot  and  splinters ;  the  upper  part  of  my  hat  was  also  shotl 
away.  There  is  one  of  our  marines  who  was  in  the  Trafalgar 
action  with  Lord  Nelson,  who  says  it  was  a  mere  fleabite  in| 
comparison  with  this."t 


•  Cooper's  Naval  History, 
t  Letter  to  his  brother,  published  in  Niles'^  Register,  voL  8.    The  result  | 
of  the  engagement  depended,  from  the  first,  upon  the  Saratoga  and  Con* 


WHITEHALL    TO    ROUSE  8    POINT. 


317 


The  officers,  on  both  sides,  who  fell  in  the  several  encounters 
by  land  and  water,  on  the  memorable  occasion  above  mentioned, 
vera  buried  in  the  public  cemetery  adjacent  to  the  village  of 
Plattsburgh;  but  their  graves  were  left,  under  the  pressing 
exigencies  of  that  time,  without  any  permanent  monument,  or 
stone  of  memorial.  That  community,  long  discontented  with 
an  omission  which  seemed  to  betoken  an  apathy  not  at  all  in 
unison  with  real  feelings,  at  last  determined  to  make  amends 
for  their  neglect,  and  fulfill  all  the  rites  of  sepulture.  Accord- 
ingly, a  little  previous  to  the  return  of  the  anniversary  of  the 
battle,  in  1843,  meetings  were  held  at  whicL  was  resolved  to 
celebrate  the  day,  by  placing  marble  monuments,  with  appro- 
priate inscriptions,  at  the  several  graves,  and  thu^i  render  to 
the  brave  and  devoted  dead  the  remaining  public  honors  so 
eminently  their  due,  and  so  long  left  unpaid.  This  design  was 
carried  into  effect  under  the  superintendence  of  tho  Clinton 
County  Military  Association,  and  the  anniversary  rendered 
deeply  interesting  by  the  placing  of  these  monuments,  with 
appropriate  ceremonies  and  religious  services,  accompanied  by 
commemoration  addresses. 

The  graves  are  arranged  m  the  form  of  a  parallelogram, 
with  that  of  Capt  Downie,  the  commander  of  the  British  flo- 
tilla, in  the  center,  as  the  officer  of  highest  rank.  The  names 
of  the  others,  so  far  as  known,  are  as  follow :  Of  our  own 
countrymen,  Lt.  George  W.  Runk,  of  the  U.  S.  A. ;  Lt.  Pete:* 
Gamble,  U.  S.  N. ;  Lt  John  Stansbury,  U.  S.  N. ;  Sailing  Mas- 
ter Rogers  Carter,  U.  S.  N. ;  Midshipman  James  M.  Baldwin, 
U.  S.  N. ;  Pilot  Joseph  Barron,  U.  8.  N.,  and  another  pilot, 
name  not  known.  Of  the  British  army,  Col.  Wellington,  3d 
Regt  Buflfs,  Capt.  Purchess,  70th  Regt.,  Lieutenant  R.  Kings- 
bury, 3d  Regt.  Buffs ;  and  of  the  British  navy,  Capt.  AleXr 
Anderson  and  three  Lieutenants,  names  not  known. 


Ilance.    When  McDonoiigh  anchored  his  vessel,  he  not  only  attached' 
'prings  to  the  cables,  but  also  laid  a  kedge  broad  off  on  each  bow  of  the 
Saratoga,  and  brought  the  hawsers  in  upon  the  two  quarters     To  this 
timely  precaution  lie  was  indebted  for  the  victory,  for  without  the  larboard 
liawser  he  could  not  have  brought  his  fresh  broadside  into  action. 

27* 


i; 


318 


WniTJiHALL    TO    ROUSR  8   POINT. 


m4 


HI' in 


The  beautiM  linej  of  an  Irish  poet  o^  the  last  century  (Col. 
lins),  can  never  be  more  appropriate  than  to  this  occasion : 

"  How  Rliep  the  brave  who  sink  to  rest, 
By  all  '.heir  country's  wishes  blest ! 
when  spring  with  dewy  Angers  cold 
Retun:s  to  deck  their  hallowed  mold. 
8 he  there  shall  dress  a  sweeter  sod 
Tlian  I'liicy's  feet  have  ever  trod. 
There  honor  comes,  a  pilgrim  gray, 
To  bless  the  turf  that  wraps  their  clay, 
And  mevnory  shall  awhile  repair 
To  dwell  a  weeping  hermit  there. 

Cumberland  Head  ia  a  peninsula  extending  two  or  three 
miles  into  the  lake,  opposite  the  village  of  Plattsburgh,  forming 
Cumberland  Bay,  into  which  empties  the  Saranac  River. 

Crab,  or  Hospital  Island  lies  two  miles  south,  and  near 
the  track  of  the  steamers  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  landing 
at  Plattsburgh.  It  was  on  a  line  nearly  north  and  south 
between  Cumberland  Head  and  Crab  Island  that  the  Britisii 
and  American  fleets  encountered  each  other,  on  the  11th  of 
September,  1814,  a  day  which  brought  so  much  honor  to  the 
American  flag. 

South  Hero  and  North  Hero  are  the  names  of  two  Is* 
lands  belonging  to  the  jurisdiction  of  Vermont.  The  former  is 
connected  by  a  ferry,  and  on  the  east  side  with  the  main  shore 
of  Vermont  by  a  bridge. 

Chazy  Landing,  16  miles  north  of  Plattsburgh,  is  a  conve- 
nient steamboat  landing,  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain. 

Isle  au  Motte,  opposite  the  above  landing,  is  a  fine  island, 
also  attached  to  Vermont.  It  is  6  miles  long  and  2  miles  wide, 
containing  much  good  land,  and  a  valuable  quarry  of  marble. 

The  village  of  Rouse's  Point,  in  the  town  of  Champlain,  25 
miles  north  of  Plattsburgh,  and  125  miles  from  Whitehall,  is  j 
situated  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  about  one  mile 
south  of  the  Canada  line,  and  has  a  convenient  steamboat 
landing,  a  very  large  depot  building,  and  a  well  kept 
hotel.  It  is  surrounded  in  part  by  a  level  and  fertile  region,  j 
which  extends  west  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  One  mile  north  j 
of  the  village  is  a  fort  and  military  position  commanding  tb« 


WHITEHALL   TO   R0U8B  8   POINT. 


31ID 


naTigabld  channel  of  the  lake.  In  1815  the  government  of  the 
United  States  cojimenced  the  construction  of  a  strong  fortress 
at  Rouse's  Point;  but  on  running  out  the  boundary  line 
between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  under  the  treaty  of 
Ghent,  this  point  was  found  to  be  north  of  the  45th  degree  of 
north  latitude,  and  the  works  were  suspended. 

United  States  Boundary  Line. — "This  l?ie  was  fixed  in 
1842,  by  treaty  negotiated  by  Lord  Ashburton  and  Mr.  Web- 
ster, on  the  old  line  formerly  supposed  to  be  the  45th  parallel 
of  latitude.  Immediately  after  the  close  of  the  last  war  the 
United  States  government  commenced  building  a  fort  on  a  low 
point  to  the  northward  of  Rouse's  Point  landing,  which  should 
completely  command  the  pi\8sage  up  the  lake.  By  the  survey 
of  this  line  in  1818,  it  was  ibund  that  this  point  was  north  of 
the  45th  parallel,  and  the  work  was  consequently  abandoned ; 
but  by  the  late  treaty  the  fort  was  secured  to  the  United  States, 
and  .ne  work  has  recently  been  resumed.  An  opening  through 
the  woods  like  a  road,  on  the  east  side  cf  the  lake,  and  about 
200  rods  north  of  the  fort,  marks  the  place  of  the  Line  as  now 
established." 

At  Rouse's  Point  is  erected  a  long  and  substantial  draw- 
bridge, crossing  the  foot  of  Lake  Champlain,  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  railroad  traffic  passing  from  Montreal  and  Ogdens- 
burgh  to  New  York  and  Boston.  During  the  winter  months 
this  bridge  afifords  the  exclusive  thoroughfare  at  this  point 
between  Canada  and  the  Eastern  States. 

The  railroads  which  here  terminal te  are  the  Vermont  and 
Canada  Railroad ^  connecting  with  the  Vermont  Central  Rail- 
road; the  JVorthern  Railroad  of  New  York,  118  miles  in  length, 
terminating  at  Ogdensburgh ;  and  the  Champlain  and  St.  Law- 
rence Railroad,  44  miles  in  length,  terminating  opposite  Mon- 
treal. 

On  arriving  and  departing  from  Rouss'e  Point,  travelers  are 
subjected  to  the  inconvenience  of  having  their  baggage  exam- 
ined by  custom-house  officers ;  this  is  a  great  port  of  mtiy  as 
well  as  thoroughfare. 


i 


■'4  h^- 


320 


WHITEHALL   TO   ROUSES   POINT. 


N, 


The  town  of  Alburoh,  Vt.,  is  a  triasgnlar  body  of  land  pro- 
jecting from  Canada  into  Lake  Champlain,  by  which  it  is  sur- 
rounded, excepting  on  the  Canada  side.  On  the  eastern  shoro 
lies  the  village  of  ^Iburghy  a  port  of  entry,  and  a  few  miles 
north  is  Alburgh  Spring.^,  where  is  a  small  settlement  and 
several  hotels.  This  justly  celebrated  watering-place  lies  near 
the  Missisquoi  Bay,  and  is  easily  reached  by  railroad,  being 
situated  seven  miles  east  of  Rouse^s  Point  and  IG  miles  west 
of  St.  Albans,  Vt. 

HiOHGATE  Sprinu.8,  throo  miles  from  Swanton  Station  anl 
17  miles  from  Rouse*s  Point,  near  the  village  of  Highgate,  Vt.,  is 
another  and  favorite  watering-place,  attracting  much  attention. 
It  is  situated  near  Missisquoi  Bay,  affording  tine  fishing-grounds, 
and  an  opportunity  to  enjoy  aquatic  sports  and  hunting. 

Missisquoi  Bay,  connecting  with  Lake  Champlain  on  the 
north,  is  a  large  and  romantic  sheet  of  water  lying  mostly  in 
Canada,  or  north  of  the  45th  degree  of  north  latitude.  Tliis 
bay  and  its  sarrounding  shores  afford  most  romantic  and  de- 
lightful scenery,  varied  by  high  land  and  picturesque  points 
Hunting,  fishing,  or  pleasure  sailing  can  here  be  enjoyed  by 
those  fond  of  such  sports,  while  the  invigorating  climate  gives 
strength  and  elasticity  to  the  weak  and  debilitated.  During  the 
summer  and  autumn  months  a  steamer  runs  around  the  bay, 
landing  at  Phillipsburgh,  Can.,  Highgate,  Vt.,  and  other 
landings. 

Ash  Island,  four  miles  north  of  Rouse's  Point,  is  considered 
the  foot  of  Lake  Champlain.  Here  the  Richelieu,  or  St.  John's 
River,  as  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain  is  called,  is  about  half 
a  mile  wide.  The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  stream  seems  almost 
level  with  the  water,  and  presents  this  low  and  flat  surface  for 
many  miles. 

Isle  Aux  Noix,  situated  in  the  Richelieu  River,  12  miles 
north  of  Rouse's  Point,  is  the  first  steamboat  landing  after 
entering  Canada.  Here  is  a  strong  fortification  commanding 
the  channel  of  the  river  and  occupied  by  British  troops. 


ROUSE  8   POINT   TO  MONTREAL,    ETC. 


321 


RAILROAD  EOUTB  FROM  ROUSE'S  POINT  TO  OODENS- 
BURQU,  tia  NORTHERN  RAILROAD. 


Stations.  Miles. 

Rouse's  Point 0 

Mooer's  Junction 12 

Chazy 11 

Summit 14 

Chateaugay 9 

Malone 11 

Brush's  Mills 11 

Stockholm 14 

Potsdam  Junction 11 

Lisbon 16 

Ogdensburoh 9 


Total  Miles. 
0 


12 
23 

37 
46 
67 
68 
82 
93 
109 
118 


Usual  Time,  5  hours.     Fare,  $8  60. 


On  leaving  Rouse's  Point  for  St.  John's  and  Montreal,  the 
line  of  the  Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence  Railroad  extends 
along  the  west  side  of  ae  Sorel  or  Richelieu  River,  over  a  level 
Hnd  productive  section  of  country,  passing  La  CoUe,  six  miles 
from  Rouse's  Point. 

St.  John's  or  Dorchester,  150  miles  from  Whitehall,  is 
advantageously  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Richelieu  Elver, 
at  the  foot  of  navigation ;  a  bridge  connecting  it  with  the  vil- 
lage of  St.  Anthanase,  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  is  23  miles 
north  of  the  American  line>  22  miles  southeast  of  Montreal, 
and  contains  about  2,200  inhabitants,  275  dwelling-houses,  a 
custom-house,  and  extensive  barracks  for  soldiers,  one  Episco- 
pal, one  Roman  Catholic,  and  one  Methodist  church ;  ten  ho- 
tels and  taverns,  ten  stores,  and  two  forwarding  houses,  one 
extensive  glass  factory,  one  stone  factory,  two  tanneries,  and 
mechanics  shops  of  different  kinds. 

The  Chamhly  Canal  extends  from  St.  John's  to  Chambly, 
on  the  northwest  side  of  the  Richelieu  River,  a  distance  of  12 
miles.  It  was  completed  in  1843,  at  a  cost  of  about  $400,000. 
There  are  nine  locks  on  this  canal  120  feet  long,  24  feet  wide. 


"■Hi 


822 


ROUSE  S   POINT    TO    MONTREAL,    ETC. 


i;.|      ijc,-.- 


and  SIX  feet  deep ;  lift  ten  feet  each,  making  a  total  descent  of 
90  teet  in  12  miles.  This  canal  was  constructed  by  the  Pro- 
yincial  government.  It  affords  navigation  for  vessels  of  100 
tons  burden  between  Like  Champlain  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
Biver,  thus  furnishing  a  a  uninterrupted  water  communication 
from  New  York  to  Quebec. 

The  railroad  from  Si.  John's  to  Montreal,  21  miles  in  length, 
extends  over  a  level  soction  of  country,  the  St.  Lawrence  River 
soon  coming  in  sight. 

The  as^^ect  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  truly  grand  and  intersst- 
u^g)  as  you  approach  it  on  the  south  from  Rouse's  Point.  Tow- 
ard the  west  is  seen  the  La  Chine  Rapid,  one  of  the  most  dan- 
gerous on  the  river.  Op*)osite  Montreal  it  is  two  miles  wide, 
embosoming  the  beautiful  island  of  St.  Helen,  which  is  fortified 
and  garrib  ned  by  British  troops. 

As  you  approach  Montreal  by  water,  the  new  Victoria  Bridge, 
the  city,  shipping,  and  wharves  are  seen  to  great  advantage. 
The  latter — the  wharves — probably  exceed  any  thing  of  the  kind 
in  America,  consisting  of  a  range  of  massive  and  solid  masonry 
extending  along  the  river  for  upward  of  a  mile. 


The  following  beautiful  lines,  descriptive  of  one  of  the  sources 
of  human  happiness^  is  from  the  gifted  pen  of  N.  P.  Willis, 
ajid  may  be  appropriately  inserted  at  this  place : 

"  Tig  to  have      < 
Attentive  and  believiag  faculties ; 
To  go  abroad  reioicing  in  tlie  joy 
Of  beautiftil  and  well-created  things 
To  love  the  voice  of  waters,  and  the  shi'^u 
Of  silver  fountains  leaping  to  the  sea ; 
To  thrill  with  the  rich  meltdy  of  birus, 
Living  their  life  of  nusic ;  to  be  gl&  i 
In  the  gay  sunshiue,  reverent  in  the  storm ; 
To  see  a  beauty  <n  the  stirring  leaf, 
And  flnd  calm  thoughts  beneath  the  whispering  tree ; 
To  see,  and  hear,  and  breathe  the  evidence 
Of  God's  deep  wisdom  in  the  natural  world.** 


iifflfii 


TABLES    OF    DISTANCES. 


323 


■■i:  »i 


TABLE  OP  DISTANCES  BETWEEN  ALBANY  AND  MONTREAL. 


Places.  Miles. 

ALBANY 0 

Troy 6 

Saratoga  Springs 32 

Whitehall 40 

Ticonderoga 24 

Burlington,  Vt 61 

Plattsburgh,  N.  Y 26 

Rouse's  Point,  *'     25 

St.  John's,  Canada 23 

MONTREAL 22 


From 

From 

Albany. 

MontreaL 

....       0     ... 

.     248 

....       6     ... 

.     242 

....     38     ... 

.     210 

. . . .     78     . . . 

.     170 

....102     ... 

.     146 

....153     ... 

.       95 

....178     ... 

70 

....203     ... 

.       45 

....226     ... 

22 

....248     ... 

0 

i  >\ 


TABLE   OP   DISTANCES    FROM   MONTREAL  TO   QUEBEC,  BY 

WATER. 

MONTREAL ; 0 

To  Varennes 0 

William  Henrt 30 

Lake  St.  Peter. 8 

St.  Francis 30 

Three  Rivers 7 

St.  Anne 20 

Richelieu  Rapids 15 

Cape  Sante. 15 

Cape  Rouge 22 

QUEBEC 8 


0 

15  Miles 

45 

53 

83 

90 

no 

126 

140 

102 

170 

RAILROAD   ROUTE  FROM  MONTREAL  TO   QUEBEC,  WHITE 
MOUNTAINS,  AND  PORTLAND,  MAINE,  t)ia  GRAND  TRUNK 

RAILWAY. 
Stations.  Miles.  Total  Miles. 

MONTREAL 0  0 

Longueuil. 2  2 

St.  Hyacinthe 80  82 

Richmond 42  74 

QUEBEC 97  171 

Sherbrooke 24  98 

Boundary  Line 30  128 

Island  Pond,  Vt 17  145 

Northumberland 27  172 

Ctorham  (White  Mt.  Station)  ...  31  203 

South  Paris. 43  246 

Danville  Junction 20  266 

PORTLAND 28  294 


324 


RAILROAD   ROUTR. 


EAILEOAD   EOUTE   FEOM   MONTREAL  TO  TORONTO,  via 
GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY. 


Stations.  Miles. 

MontrI:al 0 

Blue  Bonnets 5 

Pointe  Claire 15 

St.  Anne's  (  Ottawa  River)   21 

Vaudreuil 24 

Cedars  (road  to) 29 

Coteau  Landing 37 

Riyer  lieaudette 44 

Lancas  er 64 

CORNW  VLL 68 

Dickinson's  Landing 77 

Aultsville 84 

Williamsburg 92 

Matilda 99 

Edwardsburg 104 

Prescott  Junction 112 

PRESCOTT 113 

Maitland 120 

Brockville 126 

Mallorytown 137 

Lansdowne 146 

Gananoque 155 

Kingston  Mills 169 

Kingston 173 

Collins  Bay 180 

Ernestown 188 

Napanee 199 

Shannonville 213 

Bellkville 220 

Trenton 232 

Colborne..    249 

Grafton 256 

COBOURG 263 

Port  Hope 271 

Port  Britain 274 

Newcastle 286 

Bowmanville 290 

OSHAWA 800 

Port  Whitby 804 

Port  Union 816 

Scarboro' 820 

York 327 

Toronto 838 


Stations.  Miles. 

Toronto 0 

York 6 

Scarboro' 13 

Port  Union 17 

Port  Whitby 29 

OsHAWA S3 

Bowmanville 43 

Newcastle 47 

Port  Britain 59 

Port  Hope 62 

CoBOURO 70 

Grafton 77 

Colborne 84 

Trenton 101 

Belleville 113 

Shannonville 120 

Napanee 134 

Ernestown 145 

Collins  Bay 153 

Kingston  ....    160 

Kingston  Mills 164 

Gananoque 178 

Lansdowne 187 

Mallorytown 196 

Brockville 208 

Maitland 213 

Prescott 220 

Prescott  Junction 221 

Edwardsburg 229 

Matilda 234 

Williamsburg 241 

Aultsville 249 

Dickinson's  Landing 266 

Cornwall 265 

Lancaster 279 

River  Beaudette 289 

Coteau  Landing 296 

Cedars  (road  to) 804 

Vaudreuil  (  Ottawa  Riv'r)  309 

St.  Anne's 312 

Pointe  Claire 318 

Blue  Bonnets 328 

Montreal 333  j 


UsuAi*  Time,  15  hours.    Fabei  $10. 


)  TOEONTO,  via 

> 

Miles. 

;;•;;;  ^  |    TRIP  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 

17      H 

This  interesting  trip  is,  during  the  warm  season,  one  of  a 
83  ■  most  delightful  character.    To  be  fully  enjoyed,  however,  it 

) ^3  I  should  be  performed  during  daylight ;  but,  unfortunately,  the 

pg  ■  evening  line  of  steamers  usually  alone  performs  the  trips, 

............   62  ■  leaving  Montreal  at   seven   o'clock  p.  m.,  and  Quebec  two 

70  I  hours  earlier.     '*  Both  banks  are  low  and  uninteresting  in  a 

L  I  scenic  point  of  view,  but  lined  with  the  neat,  whitewashed  cot- 

........... .  101  Btages  of  the  French-Canadian  peasantry,  built  so  closely  to 

E 113  leach  other  as  to  suggest  the  idea  of  a  continuous  village  on 

^ ]i.  I  either  bank;  with  here  and  there  a  thicker  grouping  of  houses 

145  Broond  the  parish  church.    Darkness,  however,  soon  closes  the 

153  BTieW;  and  the  traveler  only  knows  that  he  is  rapidly  borne 

!ry.  ■  along  on  the  now  united  and  smooth  waters  of  two  mighty,  rivers, 

^  ! !  178  Better  known  by  the  inhabitants  on  its  banks  as  the  La  Grande 

'. '. '.  187  l/ttM^re." 

a OAQ  I  ^  leaving  Montreal  for  Quebec  and  the  intermediate  land- 

^ 213  1"^'  ^^  ^^®  ^^  ^^  many  splendid  steamers  which  navigate  the 

220  I  St  Lawrence,  you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  beautiiul  fortified 

notion ^21  ■jgiand  of  St.  Helkn,  situated  mid-stream  opposite  the  city ; 

^S 9gl  lind  as  you  are  borne  along  on  the  majestic  current  of  the 

lPg 241  ■Biglity  river,  its  thickly  settled  and  cultivated  shores  compel 

'^^A 1^^  A^inii^iAg  attention  of  the  traveler,  by  the  aspect  presented 

Landing Hby  their  lines  of  settlements  on  each  side,  for  the  whole  distance 

279  Btf  170  miles  from  city  to  city. 

iette 289  ■  Longueuil,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Montreal, 

ding JjjiB'B  connected  with  the  city  by  a  commodious  ferry — this  being 

Ottawa Riv'rjl^m^^  prt^ent  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  leading 

312  ■to Quebec  and  Portland,  Me.,  the  two  routes  diverging  at  Kioh- 

e grtg  mf^^^y  C.  E. — thus  forming  a  speedy  line  of  travel  both  to  Que- 

*** 883  ^ffc  on  tho  northeast,  and  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hamp- 

^.  Q  ^r~v  on  the  southeast. 


32C 


MONTREAL  TO   QUEBEC. 


The  Rapidb  of  St.  Mart  are  entered  immediately  below  St. 
Helen's  Island ;  and,  althongh  not  formidable  to  steam  vessels, 
they  often  retard  the  ordinary  river  craft  for  many  days  in 
ascending. 

LoNouE  Point  and  Point  aux  Trembles,  on  the  island  of 

« 

Montreal,  are  successively  passed  on  the  left,  and  Boucher- 
viLLE  on  the  opposite  shore. 

The  Island  or  St.  Theresa  lies  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  a 
short  distance  from  the  northern  termination  of  the  island  of 
Montreal,  and  15  miles  below  the  eiU  near  the  lower  mouth 
of  the  Ottawa  River. 

Varennes,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  river,  15  miles  from 
Montreal,  is  a  beautiful  place,  and  was  formerly  much  resorted 
to  for  the  mineral  springs  in  its  vicinity.  The  massive  church, 
with  its  two  spires,  surrounded  by  a  cli  ^  er  of  neat  dwellings, 
presents  a  fine  appearance  from  the  river.  Other  '^.Igect'^  of 
interest  are  seen  in  the  distance ;  the  hills  back  of  Montreal 
are  %till  visible ;  and  the  Mountain  of  Eouville,  rising  grandly 
in  the  southeast^  its  summit  crowned  with  an  immense  cross, 
seen  for  many  miles,  greatly  exalts  the  character  and  expres- 
sion of  the  whole  prospect. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  45  miles  below  Montreal,  standi 
on  the  site  of  an  old  fort,  built  in  1 665,  at  the  mouth  of  tb 
Richelieu  River.    It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  streets  cross! 
each  other  at  right  angles.    This  town  was  first  settled  in  1685 
and  now  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants.    It  is  no  doubt  dcs 
tined  to  increase,  as  a  canal,  with  locks,  is  now  constructed  fro; 
Ohambly  to  St.  John's,  affording  an  uninterrupted  water  com 
munication  with  Lake  Champlain.    The  fort  at  this  place  wi 
taken  and  occupied,  in  May,  1776,  by  a  party  of  the  Americ 
army,  in  their  retreat  from  Quebec  on  the  death  of  Gen.  Mom 
gomery. 

Leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Richelieu  and  proceeding  down  thj 
St.  Lawrence,  several  islands  are  passed  in  succession,  and  tin 
yoa  enter 

Lake  St.  Peter,  50  miles  below  Montreal.    This  sheet 


diorol 


MONTREAL   TO    QUEBEC. 


327 


mediately  below  St. 

>le  to  Bteam  vessels, 

for  many  days  in 

.E8,  on  the  island  of 
left,  and  Boucheb- 

the  St.  Lawence,  a 
ion  of  the  island  of 
lar  the  lower  moutli 

i  river,  15  miles  from 
rmerly  much  resetted 
The  massive  church, 
er  of  neat  dwellings,! 
er.    Other  '-.'^jectiofl 
ills  back  of  Montreal 
,MuiZ/e,  rising  grandly 
th  an  immense  cross, 
•haracter  and  expres- 

lelow  Montreal,  stands 
at  the  mouth  of  the 
with  streets  crossii 

kS  first  settled  ml685| 

It  is  no  doubt  desj 

now  constructed  froi 

Lterrupted  water  comj 

•ort  at  this  placets 

larty  of  the  America 

[e  death  of  Gen.  Mont 

Id  proceeding  down  th 
In  succession,  and  thd 

itreal.    This  sheet 


water,  which  is  but  an  expansion  of  the  river,  is  about  20  miles 
long  and  12  to  15  miles  wide,  while  the  average  breadth  of  the 
river  proper,  from  Montreal  to  Quebec,  is  about  two  miles,  and 
the  scone  which  its  waters  present  has  some  features  peculiar 
eQOllg^  to  be  noticed.  In  addition  to  the  more  customary  forms 
of  steamboats,  of  ships,  and  other  sea-going  vessels,  and  of  the 
craft  usually  employed  in  the  navigation  of  large  rivers,  the 
watei  3  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  more  than  any  other  even  on  this 
forest- covered  continent,  are  frequented  by  enormous  timber- 
rafts,  commonly  borne  along  on  their  way  to  market  by  the 
force  of  the  current  alor.3,  though  occasionally  aided  by  spread- 
ing a  sail,  or  by  huge  oars  called  sweeps.  These  floating  islands 
of  tim]jer,  with  huts  here  and  there  rising  from  their  low  sur- 
face, for  the  atoommodation  of  the  raft-men,  and  another  sin- 
gular sort  of  craft  with  long,  low  hulls,  nowhere  else  known, 
and  designed  chiefly  for  the  transport  of  timber  of  great  length, 
contribute  the  more  remarkable  and  picturesque  features  to  the 
animating  spectacle  presented  bj  the  navigation  of  this  noble 
river ;  while,  from  its  high  latitude,  and  from  the  character- 
istic phenomena  of  northern  skies,  the  ordinary,  as  well  as  the 
nore  grotesque,  features  referred  to  are  accompanied  by  con- 
trasts in  the  golden  grandeur  of  the  sunsets,  and  in  the  varied 
splendor  of  the  northern  lights,  both  of  which  are  so  frequent 
and  so  remarkable,  that  they  may  be  very  fairly  regarded  as 
habitual,  and  from  which  the  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  de- 
rives a  magnificence  and  beauty  probably  unequaled. 

Port  St.  Francis,  83  miles  below  Montreal,  is  the  next 
steamboat  landing.  Here  the  river  again  contracts  to  its  usual 
iridth. 

Thrre  Rivers,  about  half  way  between  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  St.  Maurice ;  nearly  opposite  to  which,  and 
of  smaller  volume,  enters  the  river  Becancour.  Three  Rivers 
|>8  an  old  town,  having  been  settled  by  the  French  in  1618. 
I  Here  is  a  court-house  and  jail,  a  convent,  a  Romar  Catholic 
church,  and  three  Protestant  churches ;  a  mechanics'  institute, 


328 


MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 


an  academy,  several  pnblio  houses,  40  stores,  lumber-yards,  a 
ship-yard  and  foundry ;  also,  other  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. The  town  contains  about  6,000  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
place  01  considerable  trade  and  importance. 

This  place  has  become  a  great  lumber  mart,  caused  by 
the  opening  up  of  the  great  timbe.'  country  in  ita  rear,  on  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Maurice.  A  visit  to  the  wild  and  romantic 
Falls  of  Shawiiinagenne,  about  25  miles  up  this  river,  will  be 
found  interesting ;  it  may  be  easily  accomplished  in  one  day, 
the  road  leading  through  a  forest  for  most  of  the  way,  with 
here  and  there  a  hamlet  to  vary  the  scene.  A  part  of  the 
journey  is  usually  performed  in  a  bark  canoe  propelled  by  In- 
dians. On  arriving  at  the  falls,  nothing  but  grandeur  and 
solitude  strikes  the  imagination. 

St.  Anne,  25  miles  below  Three  Kivers,  stands  on  the  north 
bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same 
name. 

The  Richelieu  Rapids,  45  miles  above  Quebec,  extend  some 
eight  or  ten  miles.  The  chftnnel  of  the  river  is  here  very  nar- 
row and  intricate,  huge  rocks  being  visible  in  many  places  dur- 
ing low  water.  In  order  to  guide  the  mariner  safely  through 
these  rapids,  beacon  lights  are  stationed  at  the  more  critical  | 
points  of  the  passage. 

Cape  Sante,  30  miles  from  Quebec,  is  on  the  north  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  a  settlement  called  I 
St.  Trois.    The  banks  of  the  river  are  here  elevated  some  60  or 
80  feet  above  the  water,  and  are  almost  perpendicular,  from 
which  the  land  extends  away  for  many  miles,  with  an  almost  | 
level  surface. 

Cape  Rouge,  eight  miles  above  Quebec,  is  next  passed  on  the  I 
left,  when  the  citadel  of  Quebec  comes  into  view,  presenting  a 
sight  at  once  grand  and  deeply  interesting,  from  the  historical  | 
events  with  which  it  is  associated. 

The  Chaudiere  River,  on  the  right,  is  much  visited  for  the! 
sake  of  its  beautiful  falls,  situated  a  short  distance  from  its] 
entrance  into  the  St.  Lawrence 


QUEBEC. 


329 


I,  lumber-yards,  a 
^turing  establish- 
abitants,  and  i»  a 

mart,  caused  by 
in  its  rear,  on  the 
jrild  and  romantic 

this  river,  will  be 
ilished  in  one  day, 
t  of  the  way,  with 
le.  A  part  of  the 
oe  propelled  by  In- 
but  grandeur  and 

jtands  on  the  north 
a  river  of  the  same 

Quebec,  extend  some 
)T  is  here  very  nar- 
T5  many  places  dur- 
iner  safely  through  i 
i.t  the  more  critical  | 

n  the  north  side  of 

a  settlement  called 

elevated  some  60  or 

perpendicular,  from 

les,  with  an  almost 

next  passed  oil  the 
view,  presenting  a 
from  the  historical 

luch  visited  for  the 
It  distance  from  it* 


WoLFE*8  CoVe,  two  miles  above  Quebec,  on  the  same  side,  is 
an  interesting  spot  to  strangers,  for  here  the  lamented  Wolfe 
landed  with  his  gallant  army,  in  1759,  and  ascended  to  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  where  he  fell  a  yictim  to  his  heroic  enter- 
prise. But  he  fell  not  alone.  France  mourned  an  equal  loss 
in  the  fall  of  the  brave  and  generous  Montcalm. 

As  the  steamer  approaches  the  wharf,  the  line  of  shipping, 
extending  usually  for  two  or  three  miles,  gives  life  and  interest 
to  the  scene  below — while  the  towering  citadel  above  produces 
emotions  of  wonder  and  delight.  The  city,  or  Lower  Town, 
only  as  yet  partly  seen,  soon  opens  to  view,  hugging  the  base 
of  the  rocky  promontory. 


QUEBEC. 


The  City  of  Quebec,  a  seaport,  and  most  important  naval 
and  military  depdt,  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  St. 
Lawrence,  at  the  point  where  it  is  joined  by  the  St.  Charles, 
170  miles  below  Montreal,  and  about  400  miles  from  the  Gulf, 
bN.  lat.  46°  49'  12'',  W.  long.  71°  15'  46".  Population  in  1831, 
25,913;  in  1844,  82,876;  in  1852,  42,000,  and  in  1856,  esti- 
,  mated  at  46,000,  of  which  about  two  thousand  are  soldiers. 

As  a  fortress,  Quebec  may  be  justly  ranked  in  the  first  class. 
I  Words  can  hardly  express  the  strength  of  its  position  without 
the  aid  of  technical  terms.  The  citadel,  the  Gibraltar  of 
America,  is  approached  by  a  zigzag  pathway,  with  thirty-two 
pounders  staring  you  in  the  face  at  every  turn.  When  inside 
ibe  fortress,  it  looks  like  a  world  of  itself.  The  officers'  barrack 
u  a  fine  building,  overlooking  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  soldiers 
quarters  are  under  the  ramparts.  The  armories,  magazines, 
Uad  warlike  ixr-nlements  are  immense.  The  military  authori- 
ties are  energetically  at  work  putting  the  fortifications  of  Que- 
[bec  into  repair.     The  Quebec  Mercury,  of  a  late  date,  says : 

'There  is  hardly  a  point  at  which  the  fortifications  are  not 
wkg  repaired  or  improved.  A  new  and  very  strong  block- 
|Woae  is  making  below  the  flag-staff,  and  very  extensive  works, 

as* 


1  ■  ,  n'  ■"■ 


330 


QUEBEC. 


of  by  no  means  anoient  construction,  above  that  point,  have 
been  condemned,  and  are  now  rebuilding  in  a  more  formidable 
manner,  near  where  a  new  battery  and  draw-bridge  outlet 
from  the  citadel  have  lately  been  constructed,  communicating 
with  the  city  over  the  northeastern  glacis." 


i( 


The  city  is  built  on  the  extremity  of  a  ridge  terminating  in 
the  angle  formed  by  the  i  unction  of  the  two  rivers  on  the 
point  called  Ca)/;  Diamond,  which  here  rises  to  the  height 
of  about  340  feet  above  the  St.  Lawrence.    The  cape  is  sur* 
mounted  by  the  citadel,  and  the  city  extends  from  it  principally 
in  a  N.E.  direction,  down  to  the  water's  edge.    The  old  town, 
which  lies  wholly  without  the  walls,  partly  at  the  foot  of  Cape 
Diamond,  and  around  to  the  St.  Charles,  has  narrow  and,  in 
parts,  steep  streets.    The  ascent  from  the  upper  to  the  lower 
portion  of  the  city  which  crosses  the  line  of  the  fortifications  is 
by  a  winding  street  and  by  a  flight  of  steps ;  the  streets  in  this 
section,  though  narrow,  are  generally  clean,  and  well  paved 
or  macadamized.    The  public  buildings  and  most  of  the  houses 
are  built  of  stone.    The  line  of  the  fortifications  stretches  nearly 
across  the  peninsula  in  the  west,  and  runs  along  a  ridge  between 
the  upper  and  lower  parts  of  the  city.     It  is  intersected  by 
five  gates,  and  has  an  inner  circuit  of  about  2^  miles.    Beyond 
the  ramparts  on  the  west  are  the  extensive  suburbs  of  St.  Rocb, 
St.  John,  and  St.  Louis.     Durham  Terrace  conuuands  a  pictur- 
esque view,  having  the  lower  part  of  the  city  in  the  foreground; 
and  the  shores  and  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  extending  far  in  | 
the  distance.     The  Public  Garden,  on  Des  Carrieres  Street,  con* 
tains  an  elegant  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  I 
Montcalm.    It  is  65  feet  high,  and  its  design  is  very  chaste  and 
beautiful.    This  spot  attracts  great  attention,  and  should  be 
visited  by  every  stranger.     The  Esplanade,  railed  off  from,  and 
situated  between  D'Auteuil  Street  and  the  ramparts,  affords  | 
delightful  views  of  the  surrounding  country  and  river  scenery. 
*'  There  are  174  streets  in  the  city  and  suburbs,  the  principal 
of  which  are  the  following :  St.  John  Street,  the  principal  seat  I 
of  the  retail  trade;    St.  Louis  Street,  occupied  by  lawyers'! 
ofl&ces  and    private  dwellings,  is   handsome  and  well-built; 
D'Auteuil  Street,  facing  the  Esplanade  in  the  upper  town,  and 
in  the  lower  town,  St.  Peter  Street,  in  which  most  of  the  banks,] 
insurance  companies,  and    merchants'    offices    are    situated. 
There  are  also  many  other  fine  streets,  and  the  appearance  of  I 
the  city  has  been  much  improv^^d  since  the  great  fire  of  l84o| 
when  nearly  2,000  buildings  were  destroyed,  which  have  been 
replaced  by  others  of  a  superior  description.    The  streets 
lighted  with  gas,  and  the  city  is  well  supplied  with  water  fron 


^„ 


QUEBEC. 


331 


HI 


the  St.  Charles  River.  The  Parliament  House  (destroyed  hy 
I  fire  1853)  was  an  elegant  pile  of  buildings,  forming  three  sides 
of  a  square,  now  about  being  rebuilt  in  a  much  improved  style. 
The  Court  House  and  City  Hall  are  substantial  stone  edifices, 
I  St.  Louis  Street,  upper  town.  The  Marine  Hospital,  a  fine  stone 
building,  will  accommodate  400  patients.  The  Lunatic  Asylum 
at  Beauport,  2 J  miles  from  the  city,  is  an  extensive  building, 
inclosed  in  a  park  of  200  acres.  The  Quebec  Musical  Hall, 
recently  erected,  is  a  substantial  and  well-built  edifice,  fitted 
for  musical  entertainments,  etc.  The  Quebec  Exchange,  the 
Canadian  Institute,  the  Literary  and  Historical  Society,  the 
Quebec  Library  Association,  the  Advocates'  Library,  etc.,  are 
I  among  the  most  noted  and  interesting  institutions  of  Quebec. 

*<  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  a  large  and  commodious 
I  building,  but  with  no  great  pretensions  to  beauty  of  architec- 
ture; the  interior  is  handsomely  fitted  up,  and  has  several  fine 
paintings ;  the  church  will  seat  4,000  persons.  It  has  a  fine 
Ichoir  and  a  good  organ.  The  Episcopal  Cathedral  is  a  hand- 
Isome  edifice,  135  feet  by  75  feet.  It  was  erected  in  1804,  and 
I  will  seat  between  3,000  and  4,000  persons.  Trinity  Church  is 
la  neat  stone  building,  erected  in  1824  ;  it  is  handsomely  fitted 
Inp.  St.  Andrew,  Presbyterian  Church,  is  95  by  48  feet,  and 
IwiU  accommodate  about  1,200  persons.  There  were,  in  1852, 
lone  Baptist,  one  Congregational,  four  Episcopal,  one  Free  Pres- 
Ibyterian,  two  Methodist,  one  Presbyterian,  and  five  Roman 
ICatholic  churches.  Quebec  has  three  banks,  and  several  bank 
jigencies,  two  savings'  banks,  and  a  number  of  insurance  agen- 
The  hotels  are  numerous,  and  several  of  them  well-kept, 
usually  thronged  with  visitors  from  the  United  States 
ad  foreign  parts  during  warm  weather. 
"There  are  three  nunneries,  one  of  which,  the  Hotel  Dieu,  is 
ivery  valuable  hospital ;  the  nuns  acting  as  nurses  to  the  sick 
these  establishments,  and  as  instructresses  of  young  females. 
Iiere  are  numerous  religious  and  benevolent  institutions,  an 
fxchange,  a  board  of  trade,  a  mechanics'  institute,  etc.  Among 
tie  establishments  for  educational  purposes,  the  first  place  is 
ne  to  the  University  of  Quebec ;  it  has  a  principal,  and  profes- 
of  theology,  rhetoric,  and  mathematics,  with  five  regents  for 
be  Latin  and  Greek  classes. 

I  "Though  not  a  manufacturing  town,  Quebec  has  various 

ptiUeries,  breweries,  with  tobacco,  soap  and  candle  works,  and 

[Unbers  of  fine  vessels  have  been  launched  from  its  ship-yards. 

lie  chmate,  though  on  the  whole  good  and  healthy,  is  ex- 

lely  hot  in  summer  and  cold  in  winter.    The  majority  of 

population  is  of  French  extraction,  and  the  French  lan- 

I  is  mostly  spoken  in  the  best  circles,  and  the  Roman 

liolic  religion  predominates." 


I 


332 


QUEBEC. 


Steamships  and  other  sea-going  Teasels  of  the  largest  burden 
come  up  to  the  whar^*^  of  Quebec.  Its  harbor  or  basin  between 
the  city  and  the  island  of  Orleans  is  of  great  extent,  having  in 
general  about  28  fathoms  %,atr^r,  the  tide  rising  from  16  to  18 
feet  at  neaps,  and  from  24  to  30  feet  at  spring  tides.  The  com- 
merce of  the  city  is  very  extensive,  the  lumber  trade  alone  | 
giving  employment  to  a  great  number  of  ships  during  the  sea* 
son  of  navigation,  From  May  to  November.  Quebec  has  a  regu- 
lar intercourse,  by  means  of  steamers,  with  Montreal  and  ports  I 
higher  up  the  St.  Lawren(  e  and  the  Ottawa  River ;  also  with  | 
Ilalifax,  Liverpool,  and  other  ports  on  both  sides  the  Atlantic. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  is  now  so  far  finished  as  to  I 
afford  speedy  communication  with  St.  Thomas,  49  miles  below  | 
Quebec,  with  Portland,  Me.,  Montreal,  Kingston,  Toronto,  etc. 
Its  passenger  and  freight  depots  are  situated  at  Point  Levi,  I 
opposite  Quebec,  the  two  places  being  connected  by  steam  ferries. 
Steamers  also  run  to  different  ports  below  Quebec,  and  during 
warm  weather  make  trips  to  the  lower  St.  Lavn-ence  and  Sague-| 
nay  rivers. 

The  following  description  of  the  city  of  Quebec  is  taken  from| 
Mr.  Buckingham's  late  interesting  work  on  Canada,  etc. : 

"  The  situation  of  Quebec  is  highly  advantageous,  in  a  com- 
mercial as  well  as  a  military  point  of  view,  and  its  appearancel 
is  very  imposing,  from  whatever  quarter  it  is  first  approached.! 
Though  at  a  distance  of  four  hundred  miles  up  from  the  sea,  thel 
magnificent  river  on  which  it  is  seated  is  three  miles  in  breadthl 
a  little  below  the  town,  and  narrows  in  to  about  a  mile  inl 
breadth  immediately  abreast  of  the  citadel ;  having,  in  bothj 
these  parts,  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  the  largest  ships  in  the 
world— a  rise  and  fall  of  twenty  feet  in  its  tides — and  space 
enough  in  its  capacious  basin,  between  Cape  Diamond  on  the 
one  hand,  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans  on  the  other,  to  afford  roor 
and  anchorage  for  a  thousand  sail  of  vessels  at  a  time,  shelter 
from  all  winds,  and  perfectly  secure !  A  small  river,  the  St.| 
Charles,  has  its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence  a  little  to  the 
north  of  the  promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  affords  a  favor-j 
able  spot  for  ship-building  and  repairs,  as  well  as  an  excellentj 
winter-harbor  for  ships  lying  up  dismantled. 

"  The  citadel  of  Quebec  occupies  the  highest  point  of  Cap 
Diamond,  being  elevated  350  feet  above  the  river,  and  present 


'd. 


QUEDBC. 


333 


ing  almost  perpendicular  cliffs  toward  the  water.    The  city  is 

built  from  the  water's  edge  along  the  foot  of  these  cliffs,  round 

tlie  point  of  the  promontory,  and  ascending  upward  from  thence 

•0  the  very  borders  of  the  citadel  it&jlf.    It  is  divided  into  the 

I  Lower  and  Upper  Town,  the  former  including  all  that  is  below 

the  ramparts  or  fortified  lines,  the  latter  comprehending  all  that 

I  is  above  and  within  that  barrier.    Besides  these,  there  is  a  large 

I  suburb,  separated  from  Quebec  proper  by  the  ramparts,  and 

gome  open  lawn  beyond  these  on  the  west,  called  the  suburb  of 

St.  Roch,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  St.  Charles,  the  only 

I  portion  of  the  whole  that  is  built  on  level  ground. 

"  On  landing  at  Quebec,  therefore,  the  traveler  has  to  wind 
Ibis  way  up  through  steep,  narrow,  and  tortuous  streets,  with 
still  narrower  alleys  on  his  right  and  left,  till  he  reaches  the 
fortified  line  or  barrier.  Here  he  enters  by  Prescott  Gate,  on 
the  right  of  which,  after  passing  through  it,  he  sees  the  impos- 
ing structure  of  the  New  Parliament  House  (since  destroyed  by 
fire),  with  its  lofty  cupola  and  fine  architectural  front;  and  on 
the  left,  a  double  flight  of  mean  and  straggling  wooden  steps, 
leading  to  one  of  the  oldest  streets,  as  an  avenue  to  the  Place 
d'Armes.  Going  across  this  last,  he  passes  the  English  ant] 
French  cathedrals,  the  government  offices,  and  palace  of  justice 
on  his  right ;  and  has  the  site  of  the  old  castle  of  St.  Lewis,  and 
the  platform  overlooking  the  harbor,  on  his  left.  Passing  by 
these,  and  continually  ascending  for  about  half  a  mile  beyond, 
he  reaches  the  ramparts  and  gates  on  the  upper  side  of  the  city ; 
I  tad  going  through  these,  he  comes  to  the  open  lawn  in  front  of 
Ithe  glacis,  beyond  which  is  the  suburb  of  St.  Roch,  on  the  level 
|ground  along  the  southern  bank  of  the  St.  Charles  River. 

"  The  plan  of  the  city  is  as  irregular  as  the  greatest  enemy 
|of  symmetry  could  desire.  The  steepness  of  the  ascent  from  the 
IriTer  to  the  plain  above  is  no  doubt  one  cause  of  this,  because 
jit  was  only  by  making  the  ascending  streets  winding  and  tor- 
Itaous  that  they  could  be  got  over  at  all ;  but  besides  this,  the 
jinequalities  in  the  surface  even  of  the  Upper  Town  led  to  other 
Ipr^ularities  in  the  form  and  direction  of  the  streets ;  while  the 
ii^e  space  occupied  by  the  old  religious  establishments,  still 
ler  curtailing  the  linee  in  different  directions,  so  cut  up 
he  area,  that  there  is  not  a  single  street  in  all  Quebec  which 
in  compare  in  length,  breadth,  or  general  good  appearance  to 
l»8  King  Street  of  Toronto  or  the  Notre  Dame  of  Montreal, 
"lie  streets  of  Quebec  are,  therefore,  in  general  short,  narrow, 
■ooked,  steep,  wretchedly  paved  in  the  center,  still  worse  pro 
pded  with  sidewalks,  and  not  lighted  with  lamps  at  night  The 
rate  dwellings  are  in  general  destitute  of  architectural 
tuty,  and  small  and  incommodious ;  some  few  are  of  wood, 
He  of  brick,  but  the  greatest  number  are  of  rough-hewn 


I! 


4'f 
1 1] 


834 


QUEBEC. 


It  *' 


■■•fi 


n 


stone,  with  high,  stoep  roofs,  containing  a  double  row  of  pro- 
jecting garret  windows,  very  lofty  chimneys,  and  the  roofs 
principally  covered  with  sheets  of  tin. '  The  shops  are  aUo 
small  and  mean,  and  greatly  inferior  in  the  extent  and  variety 
of  their  contents  to  those  of  Montreal  and  Toronto ;  though  thel 
prices  charged  are,  as  we  t^.ought,  higher  hero  than  in  eitherj 
of  these. 

*♦  The  public  buildings  are  acattorod  over  the  ci«*.y  with  sol 
much  irregularity,  that  their  position  seems  to  be  as  much  thel 
eflfeot  of  accident  as  design.     Several  i»f  them,  however,  are  sol 
promir  ently  placed  and  advantageously  seen,  that  they  relieve,! 
in  some  degree,  the  general  monotony  of  the  mass  of  onlinaryf 
houses,  an?  are  thus  far  ornamental  to  the  town ;  while  the 
spires  of  the  churches,  the  dome  of  the  Parliament  House,  and 
other  elevated  points  rising  from  the  general  surface,  with  their 
tinned  roofs  glittering  in  the  sun,  give  a  liveliness  and  varietj 
to  the  picture  presented  by  the  city ,  from  every  point  of  viewj 
which  no  other  place  in  Canada,  and  indeed  few  places  on  th« 
globe,  present. 

"  The  earliest  of  the  public  buildings  erected  in  Quebec  wa 
undoubtedly  the  castle  of  St.  Lewis,  of  which  Champlain  laid 
the  foundation  on  the  6th  of  May,  1024.  The  position  chosen 
for  it  was  a  most  commanding  one,  on  the  very  edge  of  an  al| 
most  perpendicular  precipice  of  rock  200  feet  above  the  river) 
yet  close  to  its  edge;  as,  between  the  clitf  and  the  strean 
there  is  only  just  room  enough  for  one  narrow  avenue,  calle 
Champlain  Street.  The  castle  erected  here  was  regarded  as  thd 
palace  of  the  French  governors,  who  received  in  it  the  fealti 
and  homage  of  the  several  seigneurs  holding  their  lands  accordj 
ing  to  the  feudal  tenure  of  the  times.  Nor  is  this  practice  dis] 
continued ;  for,  according  to  Mr.  Hawkins,  in  his  Picture  off 
Quebec i  the  sovereignty  of  England  having  succeeded  to  thai 
of  France,  with  all  its  ancient  rights  and  privileges,  the  kingj 
representative,  in  the  person  of  the  English  governor,  receive 
the  same  homage  at  the  present  day  as  was  paid  by  the  seigj 
neurs  of  former  times ;  this  being  one  of  the  conditions  on  whicf 
the  feudal  tenure  is  sustained.     His  words  are  these : 

"  '  Fealty  and  homage  are  rendered  at.  this  day  (1834)  by  tlij 
seigneurs  to  the  governor,  as  the  representative  of  the  sovereij 
in  the  following  form :  His  Excellency  being  in  full  dress,  anj 
seated  in  a  state-chair,  surrounded  by  his  staff,  and  attende 
by  the  Attorney-General,  the  Seigneur  in  an  evening  dress,  ia\ 
wearing  a  sword,  is  introduced  into  his  presence  by  the  Insp 
tor-General  of  the  Royal  Domain  and  Clerk  of  the  Land  Rol] 
Haying  delivered  up  his  sword,  he  kneels  on  one  knee  before!' 
Governor,  and  placing  his  right  hand  between  those  of  < 
GoYemor,  he  repeats  aloud  the  ancient  oath  of  fidelity ;  aft^ 


QUEBXC, 


885 


■m 


1  ble  row  of  pro-l*^'^^  ^  solemn  act  is  drawn  up  in  a  register  kept  for  that  pur- 
^^^  and  the  roofs ■l**°'  ^^^^^^  *8  signed  by  the  Governor  and  Seigneur,  and  coun- 
rf  o  alioDS  are  alaol^'^^'K'^®^  ^^  *^®  proper  officers.' 

t  ntwid  variety ■  **^^  ^^^^  castle  the  French  and  English  governors  resided 
^^  \o '  thoujrh  theB*'^^  1809,  when  it  was  found  necessary  to  erect  a  temporary 
h^^"  than  in  eitherl"'^  building  for  their  use  while  the  old  one  underwent  repair ; 

lind  £10,000  were  expended  for  this  purpose  under  the  admin- 
the  ci^v  with  soB'*^''"'^^^  ®^  ^^'  James  Craig.  After  this  it  continued  to  be  the 
^^  t  be  as  much  theB****  ^^  government  as  before ;  and  all  the  proclamations  and 
^^  ^  however  are  Jw<l''**'^ces  issued,  and  all  the  messages  sent  to  the  legislative 
!^™th  it  they  relieve,!*^"*^^^®^  ^y  *^®  governor  in  the  king's  name,  were  dated  from 
h '  ass  of  onlinarvB*''®  castle  of  Quel^.  It  was  also  the  scene  of  all  the  public 
ih  T  wu  •  while  theB^^®®^  ^^'^  private  entertainments  of  the  governors  and  their 
V  ment  House,  andB^"^'^*®^  ?  *°^  "^^^  therefore  the  constant  resort  of  all  the  gay 
^1  face  with'tbeirB"^^  fashionable  society  of  the  province.  In  1834,  however,  this 
I  ^l^ness  and  varietjB'^^'®'^^  edifice  was  entirely  destroyed  by  a  fire,  which  broke  out 
'  V  Doint  of  viewfr  *^*®  23d  of  January,  in  the  depth  of  winter,  when  Lord  Ayl- 
everj  po  ,  -^^j.  Q^j^^pj^^  ^^  ^  yg  official  residence ;  and  notwithstanding 

ery  exertion  made  to  sa/e  it,  the  thermometer  being  at  22  ' 

ilow  zero,  and  the  fire-engines  only  capable  of  being  worked 

ly  a  constant  supply  of  warm  water,  the  castle  was  soon  ro 

ced  to  ashco.     It  has  never  since  been  rebuilt ;  but  Lord 

rham,  during  his  short  stay  here,  had  the  site  cleared  of  the 

ined  heaps  that  still  covered  it,  and  the  whole  area  of  the 

rmor  edifice  leveled,  floored  with  wood,  and  converted  into  a 

lUtiful  platform,  with  a  fine  iron  railing  at  the  edse  of  the 

cipice,  making  it  one  of  the  most  beautiful  promenades  imag- 

ble— commanding  an  extensive  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence 

iwn  as  far  as  the  island  of  Orleans — the  harbor  filled  with 

ips  immediately  before  it,  and  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river, 

itli  Point  Levi,  the  village  of  D'Aubigny,  and  the  road  leading 

through  one  continuous  line  of  cottages  to  the  Falls  of 

udi^re. 

"The  site  on  which  the  Parliament  House  stood  is  of  even 
^^\  naid  by 'theseiSl^^^'f  <ifl'te  than  that  of  the  castle  of  St.  Lewis;  there  being 
^^  -^^u;««a  rni  wbicftojl  reason  to  believe  that  it  occupied  the  first  spot  of  ground 

ijuch  was  cleared  by  Champlain  f^r  his  fort,  on  founding  the 

^y  in  1608.    Here,  too,  as  at  the  castle,  the  site  stands  on  a 

of  rock  made  level  by  art,  and  extending  to  the  brink  of  a 

ndicular  precipice,  of  about  100  feet  above  the  river,  the 

owest  part  of  which  is  commanded  by  its  guns.    Along  the 

of  this  precipice,  beyond  the  area  occupied  by  the  late 

Uament  House,  still  runs  the  Grand  Battery  of  Quebec,  the 

'menade  on  which,  and  the  view  from  its  platform,  is  scarcely 

ferior  to  that  already  described  on  the  site  of  the  old  castle 

8t.  Lewis.'* 


.;*! 


eed  few  places  on  m 

•ected  in  Quebec  va 
rhich  Champlain  laii 

The  position  chose 
e  very  edge  of  an  al 
)  feet  above  the  river, 
cliff  and  the  streai 
aarrow  avenue,  call 
•e  was  regarded  as  tin 
eived  in  it  the  fealt; 
ng  their  lands  accord 
or  is  this  practice  dis 
[IS,  in  his  Picture  oj 
ing  succeeded  to  thai 
\  privileges,  the  king' 

sh  governor,  receiy' 


he  conditions  on  whicl 

s  are  these : 
this  day  (1834)  by  thi 
tative  of  the  sovereign 
8ing  in  full  dress,  m 
lis  staff,  and  attende 
.an  evening  dress,  ani 

presence  by  the  Insp»* 
erk  of  the  Land  m 
on  one  knee  before 
between  those  of 
oathof  fideUty;aft< 


^ 


\ » 


U'X 


r:    s 


336 


QUEOBC. 


la  a 


Plains  of  Abraham. — This  celebrated  battle-field  lies  a 
short  distance  southwest  of  the  citadel.  A  monument  is  here 
erected  on  the  spot  where  Gen.  Wolfe  is  said  to  have  died,  with 
this  simple  inscription :  **  Here  fell  Wolfe  victorious."  A  beau- 
tiful monument  is  also  erected,  of  recent  date,  to  the  memories 
of  both  Wolfe  an<l  Montcalm,  within  the  city  walls,  with  this 
inscription  :  "  Immortal  memory  of'  Wolfe  and  Montcalm.*' 

WOLFE'S  MONUMENT-QUEBEC. 

"  nEEK  FELL  WOLFE  VTCTORTOUS.** 

A  broken  column  I  few  and  brief 

The  words  inscribed  upon  its  stone ; 
Yet  speaks  it  of  the  dying  chief, 

Triumphant  tales  alone : 

It  tells  unfading  glory  shed 

Upon  the  hero's  parting  hour ; 
Dying  beside  the  host  he  led, 

To  victory  and  to  power  I 

The  trumpet's  tone,  the  battle  shout, 

All  sounds  of  triumph  come  again, 
As  shines  the  brief  inscription  out. 

Upon  the  storied  plain. 

The  clashing  sword,  the  cannon's  roar. 

The  f>eating  of  the  wild  war  drum ; 
And  the  last  shout,  "  They  fly !"  once  more 

On  fancy's  vision  come. 

And  marching  round  the  hero's  bed, 
Witli  banners  floating  free  and  fair ; 

Are  seen  the  host  he  nobly  led 
For  England's  glory  there. 

But  years  have  passed,  and  silence  reigns 
Where  once  was  heard  the  battle  cheer ; 

Of  aU  the  trophies  naught  remains— 
This,  only  this,  is  here. 

A  broken  column !  brief,  yet  high 

The  eulogy  its  words  convey ; 
Thus  in  the  triumph  hour  to  die, 

Breathes  net  of  earth's  decay. 

Wolfe  fell  in  the  moment  of  victory,  and  Montcalm,  who  ^| 
mortally  wounded  in  the  action,  expired  soon  after.    Tb^ 
French,  panic-struck  by  the  loss  of  the  battle  and  the  deati 
of  their  commander-in-chief,  surrendered  the  city  before  ere 
a  single  battery  had  been  opened  against  it.    This  importAnlj 
event,  which  transferred  the  possession  of  Canada  from 
French  to  the  English  nation,  occurred  on  the  18th  Sept.,  1759] 


QUEBEC. 


337 


The  following  is  an  English  account  of  the  attack  on  Quebec 
|by  Montgomery  and  Arnold,  in  1775  and  1776  : 

"  At  the  period  of  the  American  Revolution,  it  is  well  known 
I  that  Canada  did  not  join  the  revolted  colonies,  but  continued 
prm  in  her  allegiance  to  the  Crown ;  and  hence  it  became  the 
hand  of  refuge  to  the  many  loyalists  who  were  driven  from  the 
United  States  by  the  success  of  their  war  of  Independence.     As 
it  was  believed,  however,  by  the  Americans  of  that  day,  that  an 
attack  on  Quebec  would  be  successful,  and  if  so,  would  induce 
all  Canada  to  join  their  cause,  such  an  attack  was  planned,  and 
ita  execution  committed  to  two  American  generals,  Montgomery 
and  Arnold.    The  British  troops  usually  retained  in  Canada  for 
its  defense  had  been  bent  on  to  Boston,  so  that  the  province  was 
almost  destitute  cf  military  force,  there  being  scattered  through- 
out all  Canada  only  about  800  men.    In  this  state  of  things 
I  Gen.  Montgomery  advanced  from  Lake  Champlain  on  St.  John's, 
lind  after  a  short  resistance  took  it ;  he  then  marched  on  against 
iMontreal,  which  being  perfectly  defenseless,  surrendered  to  the 
American  arms  on  the  12th  of  November,  1775.     At  the  same 
Itime  Gen.  Arnold  was  known  to  Montgomery  to  be  advancing 
Itoward  Quebec,  from  the  New  England  States,  by  way  of  the 
Kennebec  River  through  Maine,  which  at  this  late  period  of  the 
year  was  a  most  daring  undertaking.     After  passing  thirty- two 
days  in  the  wild  forests  and  swamps,  and  suffering  almost  in- 
[credible  hardships  and  privations  in  this  hitherto  untrodden 
Iwilderness,  Arnold  and  his  followers  reached  the  banks  of  the 
ISt.  Lawrence,  by  the  Chaudiere  River,  on  the  4th  of  November, 
in  the  same  year.    From  thence  they  descended  to  Point  Levi, 
opposite  to  Quebec,  where  they  arrived  on  the  9th,  crossed  over 
on  the  night  of  the  13th,  and  landed  600  men  at  Wolfe's  Cove 
Iwithout  being  perceived  either  by  the  sentries  or  from  the  ships 
I  of  war. 

"On  the  1st  of  December  this  force  was  joined  by  a  much 
I  larger  one  under  General  Montgomery,  from  Montreal.  By 
these  two  the  city  was  invested,  and  several  bombardments  of 
it  made  with  shot  and  shells,  but  without  producing  much 
effect.  A  night  attack  was  at  length  determined  on  by  Mont- 
((omery  on  the  southern,  and  Arnold  on  the  northern,  side  of 
the  Lower  Town.  Both  attacks  were  made  with  great  courage 
ttd  impetuosity,  but  both  failed.  In  the  former.  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery and  nearly  all  his  personal  staff  were  killed ;  in  the 
Utter,  Gen.  Arnold  was  wounded,  and  with  most  of  his  follow- 
ers taken  prisoners.  The  loss  of  the  Americans  in  these  attacks 
|va8  upward  of  100  killed  and  wounded,  and  of  the  British, 
ly  one  naval  officer  killed,  and  seventeen  men  killed  and 
I  wounded.    The  Americans  did  not,  however,  give  up  the  attempt 

29 


p.  »'"' 


338 


QUEBEC. 


to  reduce  Quebec ;  as,  during  all  the  winter  following  they  con- 
tin'ied  to  receiye  reinforcements,  and  to  invest  the  town;  and 
in  the  spring  of  the  year  ensuing,  May,  1776,  they  renewed 
their  attack  on  the  citadel.  Gen.  Carleton,  the  English  com- 
mander of  the  garrison,  having  received  an  important  accession 
to  his  force  by  the  arrival  of  a  small  squadron  undeif  the  com- 
mand of  Sir  Charles  Douglas,  bringing  to  his  aid  provisions, 
ammunition,  and  men,  was  enabled  to  baffle  every  attempt  made 
on  the  city,  and  ultimately  to  make  a  sally  on  the  enemy,  when| 
they  retreated,  and  abandoned  their  post. 

*'  This  was  the  last  attack  made  on  Quebec  by  any  foreign  I 
foe,  and  as  since  that  period  thr  citadel  has  been  gradually 
strengthened  and  improved,  undei  every  successive  governor  of 
the  province,  it  is  now  in  a  condition  to  resist  ten  times  the  force] 
eve-  yet  brought  against  it,  and  could  not,  so  long  as  it  con- 
tained supplies  of  pruvisionfi,  and  an  adequate  number  of  brarel 
and  faithful  msn,  be  conquered  by  any  force  likely  to  be  brought| 
against  it  from  this  continnnt." 

General  Montgomery. — A  tablet  has  been  placed  onthel 
rock  of  Cape  Diamond,  near  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery | 
fell,  with  his  two  aids-de-camp,  Majors  McPherson  and  Cheese- 
man,  at  Prcs-de-ville,  in  the  attack  upon  Quebec  by  the  Amer- 
ican forces,  in  the  winter  of  1775-0. 

The  tablet  is  raised  about  Miy  :^eet  from  the  road,  and  bean| 
the  following  inscription : 

here 

MAJOR-GENERAL  MONTGOMERY  FELL, 

DECEMBER   31ST,  1775. 

*<  It  has  long  been  a  matter  of  surprise  to  our  neighbors  of| 
the  Unit'ed  States,  who,  during  the  summer  months,  pour  in  i 
continual  stream  of  visitors  to  our  celebrated  city,  that  no  clue 
could  be  found  by  them  to  indicate  the  spot  where  Montgomery! 
fell.  The  event  must  ever  remain  memorable  in  our  colonial 
history  as  terminating  the  last  hostile  struggle  before  the  city 
of  Quebec. 

*<  Quebec  is  much  indebted  to  the  late  Mr.  Hawkins  for  th^ 
labor  he  Las  bestowed  in  bringing  before  the  public  the  vari^ 
historical  reminiscences  connected  with  the  city,  and  this  tab- 
let, erecte<l  by  him,  is  a  fresh  proof  of  the  interest  he  takes  i' 
perpetuating  the  recollection  of  every  incident  connected  wi^ 
tlie  many  warlike  and  memorable  events  illuming  the  ai 
of  our  American  Gibraltar."     See  Hawkins'  Quebec. 


VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC. 


339 


i  the  road,  and  beanl 


VICINITY  OF  QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  most  travelers,  stands  not 

Ijlone  in  regard  to  attractions  of  interest.     In  the  Vicinity, 

within  a  few  hours'  ride,  are  located  waterfalls  and  varied 

scenery  of  the  most  romantic  character,  while  the  banks  of  the 

Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  rivers  stand  unrivaled  in 

I  scenic  grandeur. 

EXCURfclOV   TO   CAPE    ROUGE. 

On  this  excursion  you  leave  the  city  by  the  St.  Lewis  Gate, 
land  cross  the  Plains  of  Abraham  to  the  right  of  the  spot  where 
Wolfe  fell.  A  mile  from  the  gate  is  t!ie  Bace  Course ^  wliich  is 
thronged  during  the  spring  and  fall  races;  and  a  mile  farther, 
iroad  branching  to  the  left  leads  to  Wolfe's  Cove^  celebrated 
as  the  place  where  he  landed  with  his  army  previous  to  the 
capture  of  Quebec,  but  now  occupied  by  an  extensive  ship-yard 
and  lumber-yard.  The  road  beyond  runs  for  some  distance 
through  a  fine  grove,  with  avenues  leading  to  various  pleasant 
country  residences  overlooking  the  river,  of  which  you  catch  as 
you  pass  along  occasional  glimpses,  together  with  the  opposite 
I  shore  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Chaudiere  Falls. 

Returning  by  the  St.  Foi  road,  and  facing  toward  the  city, 
I  the  prospect  is  far  wider  and  more  magnificent.  Below  and  to 
the  left  stretches  the  fine  cultivated  valley  of  the  St.  Charles, 
bounded  on  the  northwest  by  a  picturesque  range  of  mountains, 
the  settlements  reaching  to  their  very  base,  with  villages  and 
church  spires  scattered  over  the  intervening  region ;  in  another 
direction  appear  the  Falls  of  the  Montmorenci  and  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  and  in  front  spreads  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  with  the  boU 
cliffs  of  Cape  Diamond  and  Point  Levi  rising  perpendicularly 

I  on  each  side,  the  former  crowned  with  impregnable  bulwarks. 
The  FauliS  of  Lorette,  situated  eight  miles  northwest  of 

[Quebec,  are  visited  by  many  strangers  with  delight,  though  but 

I I  small  volume  of  water.    They  have  a  descent  of  about  50  feet, 
[  and  are  surrounded  by  very  fine  scenery,  peculiar  to  this  section 

of  Canada. 


:-'::i 


340 


VICINITY    OP    QUEBEC. 


Pi  'I- 


The  Indian  Village,  at  the  falls,  is  inhabited  by  the  remains 
of  the  once  powerful  tribe  of  the  Hurons. 

The  hills  or  mountains  on  the  northwest  of  Lorette  may  be 
said  to  be  the  bounds  of  white  settlements  in  North  America, 
although,  at  no  distant  period,  the  upper  Saguenay  River  and 
Lake  St.  John  will,  no  doubt,  be  reached  in  this  direction  by 
railroad. 

FALLS   OF   MONTMORENCI. 

In  going  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  which  should  be  visited 
by  every  lover  of  picturesque  natural  scenery,  you  pasd  through 
the  suburbs  of  Quebec,  mostly  inhabited  by  French  Canadians, 
and  cross  the  river  St.  Charles,  near  its  mouth,  by  a  wooden 
toll  bridge.  Here  are  situated  on  the  roadside  several  pretty 
country  residences,  on  the  route  to  Beauporty  which  is  a  long 
scattered  village  e.bout  half  way  between  Quebec  and  Montmo- 
renci, although  for  most  of  the  distance  there  are  dwellings 
so  continuous  as  to  appear  like  one  continued  settlement. 
At  Beauport  there  is  a  Roman  Catholic  church  with  three] 
spires ;  and  a  little  farther  north  may  be  seen  a  neat  monu- 
ment and  cross  near  the  road,  where  are  frequently  found  per- 
sons kneeling  at  their  devotions. 

The  celebrated  Montmorenci  Falls,  situated  eight  miles  I 
below  Quebec,  is  a  grand  cataract.    The  river  is  but  GO  feet 
wide,  but  the  height  of  the  faUs  is  240  leet.    The  effect  on  the 
beholder,  fays  Professor  Silliman,  is  delightful.     All  strangers! 
at  Quebec  proceed  to  visit  Montmorenci. 

"The  effect  of  the  vievr  of  these  falls  on  the  beholder  is  most  I 
delightful.  The  river,  at  some  distance,  seems  suspended  in  the! 
air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,  and,  contrasted  as  it  is,  witbl 
the  black  frowning  abyss  into  which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  [ 
the  highest  interest.  The  sheet  of  foam,  which  iirst  breaksl 
over  the  ridge,  is  more  and  more  divided  as  it  plunges  and  isj 
dashed  against  the  successive  layers  of  rock,  which  it  almostl 
completely  vails  from  view ;  the  spray  becomes  very  delicate! 
and  abundant  from  top  to  bottom,  hanging  over  and  revolTiDn 
around  the  torrent  till  it  becomes  lighter  and  more  evanesoenti 
than  the  whitest  fleecy  clouds  of  summer,  than  the  finest  at*! 
tenuated  web,  than  the  lightest  gossamer,  constituting  the  mM 
airy  and  sumptuous  drapery  that  can  be  imagined.     Yet,  li]n| 


VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC. 


au 


ted  by  the  remaiiui 


the  drapery  of  some  of  the  Grecian  statues,  whioh,  T7hile  it 
Tails,  exhibits  more  forcibly  the  form  beneath,  this  does  not 
liide,  but  exalts,  the  effects  produced  by  this  noble  cataract. 

**  Those  who  yisit  the  falls  in  the  winter,  see  one  fine  feature 
added  to  the  scene,  although  they  may  lose  some  others.  The 
spray  freezes,  and  forms  a  regular  cone  of  one  hundred  feet  or 
upward  in  height,  standing  immediately  at  the  bottom  of  the 
cataract,  like  some  huge  giant  of  fabulous  notoriety." 

The  JViatural  Steps,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  falls  above,  are  an 
object  of  much  interest,  and  there  are  many  excellent  fishing 
places  on  the  river,  rendering  it  a  favorite  resort  of  the  lovers 
of  angling  and  romantic  scenery.  There  are  also  historical 
incidents  connected  with  this  neighborhood,  which  render  it 
almosb  classic  ground. 

There  are  extensive  saw-mills  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river 
below  the  falls,  which  are  propeiied  by  water-power  taken  from 
the  stream  above,  and  conveyed  for  about  half  a  mile  in  a  race- 
way. These  mills  have  upward  of  a  hundred  saws  in  motion  at 
a  time,  and  are  said  to  be  capable  of  completing  an  entire  cargo 
of  planks  in  a  single  day !  In  winter,  the  spray  rising  from  the 
falls  is  congealed,  and  often  presents  a  conical  mass  of  ice  100 
feet  and  upward  in  height.  It  was  on  the  high  grounds  north 
of  the  falls  that  Gen.  Wolfe  met  his  first  repulse,  when  he  at- 
tacked the  French,  a  short  time  before  his  triumph  on  the  Plains 
of  Abraham,  lie  was  here  driven  back,  and  compelled  to  re- 
embark,  with  the  loss  of  700  engaged  in  the  assault. 

On  returning  to  Quebec  there  is  afforded  a  splendid  view  of 
the  city  and  citadel ;  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  opposite  shore 
above  and  below  Point  Levi ;  the  beautiful  island  of  Orleans, 
opposite  the  falls,  and  the  rich  valley  of  the  St.  Charles. 

The  Falls  of  Sr.  Anne  are  situated  on  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  on  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  24  miles  be- 
low Quebec,  and  presents  a  singular  variety  of  wild  and  beauti- 
ful scenery,  both  in  themselves  and  their  immediate  neighbor- 
hood. By  leaving  Quebec  early  in  the  day,  the  tourist  can 
Tisit  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  and  the  objects  contiguous,  and 
reach  St.  Anne  the  same  evening,  leaving  the  next  morning  tc 
visit  th  3  falls,  and  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  return  to  Qaebeo. 

29* 


342 


VICINITY    OF    QUEBEC. 


mi:  '-': 


Lake  St.  Charles,  13  miles  north  of  Quebec,  is  a  favorite 
resort  of  tourists,  particularly  of  those  who  are  fond  of  angling, 
as  the  lake  abounds  with  fine  trout.  Parties  intending  to  re- 
main any  length  of  time  would  do  well  to  bring  some  of  the 
good  things  to  be  found  in  the  larders  of  Quebec  with  them,  aa 
it  is  not  at  all  timos  that  the  supplies  in  the  vicinity  are  all 
that  can  be  desired. 

The  Chaudiere  Falls,  on  the  river  Chaudicre,  nine  milea 

above  Quebec,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 

are  very  beautiful,  and  much  visited.     They  are  130  feet  high. 

The  cataract  is  a  fierce  and  noisy  one.     The  following  is  Col. 

Bouchette's  description : 

"  The  continued  action  of  the  water  has  worn  the  rock  into 
deep  excavations,  that  give  a  globular  figure  to  the  revolving 
bodies  of  white  foam  as*  they  descend,  and  greatly  increase  the 
beautiful  effect  of  the  fall ;  the  spray  thrown  up  being  quickly 
spread  by  the  wind,  produces  in  the  sunshine  a  most  splendid 
variety  of  prismatic  colors.  The  dark-hued  foliage  of  the  woods, 
that  on  each  side  press  close  upon  the  margin  of  the  river,  forms 
a  striking  contrast  with  the  snow-like  effulgence  of  the  falling 
torrent;  the  hurried  motion  of  the  flood,  agitated  among  the 
rocks  and  hollows,  as  it  forces  its  way  toward  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  the  incessant  sound  occasioned  by  the  cataract  itself,  form 
a  combination  that  strikes  forcibly  upon  the  senses,  and  amply 
gratifies  the  curiosity  of  the  admiring  spectator.'* 

On  visiting  the  above  falls,  the  tourist  crosses  the  river  to 

Point  Levi,  and  then  obtains  a  conveyance  for  the  excursion, 

passing  up  the  St.  Lawrence  for  a  few  miles. 


DISTANCES  FROM  QUEBEC  TO  KAKOUNA,  CHICOUTIMI,  ETC 

Miles. 
QUEBEC  to  Gbosse-Isle 30 

"  Sr.  Thomas 10-40 

"  River  Quelle 32-72 

*<  Murray  Bay 12-84 

•«  Kamourahka 6-90 

"  Riviere  du  Loup 20-110 

♦«  Kakouna 10-120 

<«  Tadousac 130 

««  Ha-Ha  Bay 64-184 

•*  CHICOUTIMI 16-200 


TABLE    OF    DISTANCES. 


343 


bee,  is  a  favoriU 
fond  of  angling, 
intending  to  re- 
ing  some  of  the 
ec  with  them,  as 
B  vicinity  are  all 

dicre,  nine  miles 
lie  St.  Lawrence, 
re  130  feet  high, 
following  is  Col. 

►rn  the  rock  into 
to  the  revolving 
atly  increase  the 
up  being  quickly 
a  most  splendid 
age  of  the  woods, 
f  the  river,  forms 
ice  of  the  falling 
:ated  among  the 
he  St.  Lawrence, 
aract  itself,  form 
inses,  and  amply 

ases  the  river  to 
)r  the  excursion, 


[ICOXITIMI,  ETC 

MilcH. 
30 
....  10-40 
....  32-72 
....  12-84 
....  6-90 
....  20-110 
....  10-120 
130 
....  54-184 
....  16-200 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  BETWEEN  QCTEBEC  AND  KIN08TC 
via  ST.  LAWKENCE  RIVEB. 


From 

[QUEBEC 0  0 

iRichelieu  Rapids 45  45 

■Three  Rivers 35  80 

Lke  St.  Peter. 80  110 

IWiLLiAM  Henry.  .  .15  125 

ImONTREAL 45  170 

|U Chine, ma  Canal.  9  179 

iuharnois 18  197 

Cascade  Rapids 1  198 

gpUtRock  "     3  201 

Cedar          "     2  203 

rEAir  DU  Lac 5  208 

mcaster 16  224 

pt.  Regis 13  237 

(N.Y.  State  Line.) 

FoRNWALL 3  240 

(Long  Saut  Rapid.) 

bicdnson's  Landing.  10  2-50 

barren's  Point 4  254 

Williamsburg 11  265 

iapidPlat 2  267 

Iatilda 6  272 

foint  Iroquois 2  274 

fallop  Rapids 6  280 

fRESCOTT,  or 

JDENSBURGH 6  286 

iaitland 7  293 

pROCKVILLE 5  298 

(Thousand  Islands ) 

fananoque 80  828 

LNGSTON 22  860 


PUce*. 


KINGSTON 0 

Qananoque 22 

(Thousand  Islands.) 

Brockvil.le 30 

Maitland 5 

Prescott,  or 

Ogdensburgh 7 

Gallop  Rapids 6 

Point  Iroquois 6 

Matilda 2 

Rapid  Plat 5 

Williamsburg.  ...  2 

Farren*s  Point 11 

Dickinson's  Landing.  4 

(Long  Saut  Rapid.) 

Cornwall 10 

St.  Regis 3 

(N.  Y.  State  Line.) 

Lancaster 18 

CoTEAU  DU  Lac.  .  .16 

Cedar  Rapids 5 

Split  Rock"  2 

Cascade      "   3 

Beauharnois 1 

La  Chine 18 

MONTREAL  9 

William  Henry.  .45 

Lake  St.  Peter 10 

Threk  Riverx 35 

Richelieu  Rapids. .  .85 


Pn>m 
Milcn.  KlUKOton. 

0 

22 


52 
67 

64 
70 
76 
78 
83 
85 
96 
100 

110 
113 

126 
142 
147 
149 
152 
153 
171 
180 
225 
235 
270 
305 
8r)0 


QUEBKC 45 

Distance  from  Quebec  to  Niagara  Falls,  570  miles. 
nt  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  from  Kingston  to  Quebec, 
feet. 


m 


m 


iit\i 


m 


TRIP  FROM  QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 


As  a  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Riviere  du  Loup,  Ka- 
koaua,  and  the  far-famed  river  Saguenay  has,  within  the  last 
few  years,  become  a  fashionable  and  exceedingly  interesting 
steamboat  excursion,  we  subjoin  an  account  of  such  trip  made 
by  the  author  some  few  years  since. 

As  the  steamboat  left  the  wharf,  she  took  a  graceful  turn  up 
stream,  passing  a  74  gun- ship  of  the  Royal  Navy,  and  then  tie- 
Bcended,  running  close  under  Point  Levi,  affordi*^  ^  a  fine  view 
of  the  city  and  citadel  of  Quebec. 

The  beautiful  line  of  settlements  below  the  cl.jr,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  river,  next  attracts  attention ;  the  view  in  the  distance 
being  bounded  by  hills,  apparently  elevated  1,500  to  2,000  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  romantic  Falls  of  Montmorenei,  seven  miles  below 
Qaebec,  are  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer,  plunging  over  an  almost  perpendicular  precipice  of  240 
feet  directly  into  this  great  river.  Immediately  below,  on  the 
bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  was  fought  a  severe  battle  between 
the  English  and  French  armies,  a  short  time  previous  to  the 
capture  of  Quebec  by  Gen.  Wolfe,  in  1769,  in  which  the  British 
were  repulsed  with  considerable  loss. 

The  IsLAXD  OF  Orleans  is  next  passea  on  the  left,  descend^ 
ing  the  river  through  the  principal  ship  channeL  This  is  a  fertile 
tract,  20  miles  long  by  five  or  six  wide,  and  in  part  ccv  jred  with 
&  beautiful  growth  of  forest.  It  rises  from  50  to  100  feet  above 
the  water,  and  the  stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence  being  here 
divided,  the  aspect  of  the  shores  at  once  reminds  ycu  of  the 
scenery  of  the  Hudson  River  above  the  Highlands.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  7,000  souls,  and  produces  the  finest  fruit  in 
Lower  Canada,  excepting  that  raised  in  the  vicinity  of  Montreal. 


J 


346         QUEBEC    TO   THE   SAOUENAT   RIVER,    ETC. 


w 


Bt.  Patrick's  Hole,  eleyen  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the 
Orleans  shore,  affords  a  fine  anchorage  for  yessels  of  the  largest 
size.  It  WPS  here,  some  30  years  ago,  that  the  immense  timber 
ship  was  built,  supposed  to  be  the  largest  yessol,  by  far,  that 
ever  crossed  the  Atlantic. 

The  Parish  of  St.  Laurent,  14  miles  below  Quebec,  is  hand- 
somely  situated  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  island,  which  is  set- 
tled exclusively  by  French  Canadians,  mostly  engaged  in  culti- 
vating the  soil.  The  dwellings  have  a  remarkably  neat  look, 
being  one  story  high,  with  both  roof  and  sides  painted  white. 

The  southeast  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  for  many  miles  be- 
low Point  Levi,  presents  a  succession  of  villages  and  haraletii, 
consisting  each  of  a  cluster  of  houses  with  a  church  standing  in 
the  midst,  and  with  its  aspect  of  guardianship  and  guidance  to 
the  families  dwelling  around,  imparting  to  the  landscape  a 
moral  expression,  which  greatly  enhances  its  picturesque 
beauty. 

The  vessels  usually  seen  on  this  part  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are 
of  the  larger  class  of  merchant  ships.  The  arrivals  at  the  port 
of  Quebec  average  some  1,400  to  1,500  annually,  mostly  from 
Great  Britain,  and  besides  other  colonial  produce,  they  carry 
back  immense  quantities  of  timber  and  lumber. 

Madam  Island,  26  miles  from  Quebec,  is  one  of  several 
small  islands  lying  below  Orleans.  The  river  here  widens  to  ten 
miles,  which  gradually  increases  all  the  way  to  its  mouth ;  and 
for  most  of  the  distance  there  are  two  ship  channels,  called  the 
north  and  south  channels,  the  latter  being  the  best  and  most 
navigated. 

Cape  Tourment,  30  miles  below  Quebec,  is  a  bold  promon- 
tory on  the  northwest  side  of  the  river  rising  to  the  height  of 
about  2,000  feet,  and  seen  at  a  great  distance.  Here  the  scen- 
ery is  truly  grand. 

Gkosse  Island,  opposite  Cape  Tourment,  is  the  Quarantint 
station  for  vessels  ascending  the  river,  and  it  has  a  hospital,  a 
Roman  Catholic  chapel,  and  other  buildings  usually  connected 
with  such  an  establishment. 


QUEBEC    TO    THE    8AGURNAY    UIVER,    ETC. 


347 


ce.    Here  the  seen- 


St.  Thomas,  40  miles  from  Quebec,  on  the  southeast  shoid, 
is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  stream  called  South  River.  The 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  lined  with  a  succession  of  dwellings 
for  many  miles  below,  with  high  grounds  rising  in  the  distance, 
beyond  which  may  occasionally  be  seen  the  hills  formerly 
claimed  by  the  Americans,  as  the  boundary  between  the  Stut3 
of  Maine  and  Canada.  Here  terminates  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  for  the  present,  but  will  be  extended  soon  some  100 
miles  farther,  to  Trois  Pistoles. 

Crane  Island,  45  miles  below  Quebec,  is  fertile  and  settled. 
Its  north  end  is  adorned  with  the  delightful  residence  of  the 
Seigneur. 

GooBE  Island,  60  miles  from  Quebec,  is  owned  by  the  Nuns, 
and  is  cultivated  as  a  farm,  by  tenants. 

The  Pillars,  GO  miles  below  Quebec,  is  the  name  given  to 
several  small  rocky  islets,  on  one  of  which  stands  a  light-house. 
Here  the  scenery  is  peculiarly  grand  and  interesting.  The  vast 
estuary  of  the  river  below  looks  indeed  like  an  opening  to  the 
ocean.  The  shores  for  some  ten  mileb  onward  are  studded  with 
shining  residences,  while  the  hills  in  the  distance,  on  both  sides, 
resemble  very  much  the  scenery  bordering  the  widest  part  of 
Lake  Champlain. 

Sixty-five  miles  below  Quebec  is  the  remarkable  channel 
called  the  Traverse.  A  floating  light  guides  the  mariner  by 
night  through  this  narrow  and  dangerous  passage. 

Isle  aux  Coudrks  (Isle  of  Filberts)  is  a  large  body  of  land 
lying  toward  the  north  shore,  opposit3  the  Bay  of  St  Paul's, 
and  about  65  miles  from  Quebec.  It  is  said  that  when  Jacques 
Cartier  anchored  here,  on  his  first  voyage  of  discovery  up  the 
St.  Lawrence,  he  gave  this  island  the  name  it  yet  bears,  froTu 
the  quantity  of  filberts,  or  hazel  nuts,  which  he  found  there. 

St.  Anne  stands  on  the  southeast  shore,  on  a  bay  of  the  same 
name.  Here  is  a  Catholic  college  and  a  settlement  of  consider- 
able size,  about  70  miles  from  Quebec. 

As  yon  approach  Goose  Cape,  75  miles  below  Quebec,  the 
banks  of  the  river  seem  to  decline  in  the  distance;  the  river 


si 


I 


«-;.t- 


348         QUKBEO   TO   THB    BAOUENAT   RIVER,   ETC. 

now  being  iVoo  of  islands,  presents  a  largo  expanses  of  water, 
here  being  about  18  miles  wide. 

Murray  Bay,  80  miles  below  Quebec,  lies  on  the  northwest 
side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same 
name,  lliis  is  a  fine  section  of  country,  producing  wheat  ai  J 
other  kinds  of  grain  in  abundance.  Beyond  this  place  is  seen  ,\ 
beautiful  range  of  hills,  terminating  at  Cape  Eagle  and  Capo 
Salmon  on  the  east.  This  dcHghtful  place  has  become,  within  a 
few  years,  a  fashionable  sunmer  resort  for  the  Canadians. 

Kamouraska,  situated  00  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the  south- 
east side  of  the  river,  contains  about  1,600  inhabitants,  and  ia 
surrounded  by  a  fruitful  district.  Vessels  can  land  here  only 
at  high  water ;  at  low  water,  passengers  are  taken  ashore  in 
small  boats.  In  the  rear  of  this  village  are  seen  abrupt  and 
sterile  hills  with  little  or  no  verdure.  In  front  are  two  or  three 
smoU  islands,  chiefly  resorted  to  for  fishing  and  bathing,  this 
being  a  favorite  resort,  during  the  summer  months,  for  the 
citizens  of  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  is  no  doubt  destined  to 
become  a  fashionable  watering-place,  where  sea-bathing  can  be 
enjoyed  by  invalids  and  seekers  of  pleasure. 

About  106  miles  below  Quebec  are  the  Pilgrim  Islands,  a 
group  of  rocky  islets  which  are  passed  to  the  right.  On  the  left, 
a  few  miles  below,  is  Hare  Island^  near  the  middle  of  the  river. 

The  settlement  at  the  Riviere  du  Loup,  110  miles  below 
Quebec,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  contains  about 
1,600  inhabitants.  Here  commences  the  great  road  from  the 
St.  Lawrence  River  to  the  St.  John's,  by  the  way  of  ihe  Mada- 
waska  River  and  settlement. 

Cacona  or  Eakouna,  120  miles  below  Quebec  is  a  fashion- 
able sea-bathing  resort. 

Red  Island  lies  off  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  this  being 
the  first  island  of  the  small  group  met  on  ascending  the  St 
Lawrence.  It  is  destitute  of  a  light,  and  has  caused  many  ship- 
wrecks during  the  prevalence  of  fogs  and  stovms,  so  frequent  on 
the  lower  part  of  the  river  and  Gulf  of  St,  Lawrence.  Greeic 
Island  lies  nearly  opposite  Red  Island,  on  the  southeast. 


[VKR,   ETC. 


QUEDRC    TO   T>IK    8A0UBNAT    KIVBR,    ETC. 


349 


0  expan8\)  of  water, 


Quebec  is  a  fashion- 


RIVER  DU  LOUP  AND  KAKOUNA. 
From  the  pen  of  a  talented  Correspondent  of  the  Montreal  Ga»ett4. 

** Riviere  du  Loup  is  a  prettily  situated  Tillage,  taking  its 
n^iiie  troii;  its  river,  which  river  has  been  made  available  for  the 
purpo8(j8  of  an  extensive  saw-mill,  a  water-power  being  created 
by  its  preoi;)itation  over  a  ridge  of  rocks,  which  form  tl  e  very 
beautiful  Biviere  du  Loup  Falls.  There  are  a  few  **  fuglish" 
settlers  (the  word  being  used  in  its  general  sense  as  distiLguish- 
ing  from  "  Fiiiuch"),  and  a  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  Eigland 
IB  stationed  here.  Six  miles  from  Hivicre  du  Loup  is  the  village 
of  "  Kakoun  A,"  to  adopt  the  Indian  and  more  euphonious  name, 
which  is  effectually  supplanting  the  corruptions  of  "  Cacona" 
ami  '•  Cocoui"  now  in  vogue.  Kakouna  is  formed  into  a  village,, 
from  the  invariable  custom  of  placing  the  houses  on  the  front  of 
the  farms.  It  is  prettily  situated  on  a  high  ridge,  along  which 
passes  the  highway.  Behind  the  ridge  on  which  the  village 
stands,  gently  slopes  a  valley,  which  is  well  cultivated,  ascend- 
ing gradually  till  it  attains  a  considerable  elevation  at  the  rear 
concession,  where  another  village  and  church  are  placed.  In 
front  of  the  Kakouna  ridge  a  cuk'^oiu  Oi*"  trees  intervenes  between 
the  village  and  the  beach.  The  yleyf  from  Kakouna  is  very 
pleasing.  The  river  stretches  out  before  it  in  a  noble  width  of 
twenty-five  miles.  The  farther  shore  is  a  continuous  succession 
of  mountains.  Amid  them  opens  up  the  scarcely  visible  em- 
bouchure of  thtf  Saguenay.  Up  the  river  the  pilgrim  rocks  look 
grim  and  solitary.  Midway,  Hare  Island  rises  from  the  sur* 
rounding  waters.  Below,  Kakouna  Island  projects  into  the- 
river,  forming  a  bay.  Sunset  at  Kakouna  sometimes  presents 
aa  enchanting  spectacle.  The  gently  rippling  waters  gleam 
and  shine  with  the  sparkling  luster  derived  from  the  rays  of  the 
dei.'lining  sun.  The  brilliant  coloring  and  changeful  hues  of  the 
evening  sky  appear  to  rest  upon  the  somber  mountains,  which, 
begirt  midway  with  a  zone  of  gray  mist,  contrast  strangely  with 
the  gleaming  dark  blue  river  which  laves  their  base.  Far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  the  wide  expanse  glitters,  as  if  set  with  gems 
of  every  hu'  —its  calm  repose  unbroken,  save  by  the  numerous 
vessels  which,  with  their  white  sails  floating  on  the  breeze,  pro- 
claim the  industry  of  man  and  his  power  over  the  elements,  or 
by  the  &.iores  of  the  islets  which,  bathed  in  light,  rise  from  its 
surface.  When  a  storm,  too,  rises,  the  river  wears  a  peculiar 
grandeur,  and  the  mind  is  irresistibly  impressed  witli  a  sense 
of  iU  majesty,  and  led  to  a  contemplation  from  nature  up  to 
nature's  God. 

"  But,  to  pass  on  from  this  digression,  a  word  or  two  as  to  th' 
advantages  of  Kiviere  du  Loup  and  Kakouna  as  watering-place 
Now  easy  of  aoc^s,  with  a  telegraph  at  Kiviere  du  Loup  and  a 

80 


mr 


350  QUEBEC    TO    THE    8AGUENAY    RIVER,    ETC. 


daily  mail,  these  places  are  every  year  becoming  more  resorted 
to.    There  is  now  much  increased  accommodation  at  Kakouna, 
where  are  two  large  and  commodious  hotels,  and  a  good  board- 
ing-house.    These  contain  many  yisitors,  but  many  families  are 
accommodated  in  the  farm-houses — renting  these  and  providing 
for  themselves.    This  is  a  comfortable  and  independent  plan. 
The  houses  are  improving  in  accommodation ;  the  practice  is  be- 
ginning to  be  established  of  the  Canadian  families  having  a 
Hnialler  house,  to  which  they  betake  themselves  so  as  to  give  to 
the  V  sitors  control  of  the  whole  of  the  farm-house     A  few  home 
comforts  will  naturally  be  wanting,  but  life  in  Kakouna  is  no; 
without  its  attractions,  and  the  deprivation  of  a  few  comtoris 
m;vke3  one  appreciate  them  more  keenly  when  regained     A 
baker  leaves  regularly  at  the  houses  good  bread.     Beef,  poultry. 
mutton,   salmon,  herrings,  pigeon,  sardines,  eggs,  milk,  and 
butter  present  a  bill  of  fare  that  shows  there  is  no  danger  of 
starving,  while  strawberries,  raspberries,  and  blueberries  aro 
besides  to  be  had  in  the  greatest  abundance.     The  strawberry 
grows  in  peculiar  profusion,  eTid  of  a  singularly  excellent 
quality,  attaining  often  a  large  size.     The  children  of  the  vil- 
lage reap  a  harvest  while  they  continue.    The  sportsman  will 
not  find  much  game,  through  trout  are  abundant  in  the  streams  j 
and  lakes.     There  are,  it  may  be  remarked,  attractive  places 
for  walks  and  drives,  however.     But  the  main  recommendation 
of  the  two  places  in  question,  is  the  comparative  moderation  of 
the  tempera;ture,  and  the  fact  that  open  air  exercise  can.  at  all  j 
periods  of  the  day,  be  enjoyed.    The  heat  is  never  excessive,  but 
the  air  of  the  evening  is  often  decidedly  cool.     On  the  whole, 
these  watering-places  of  the  St.  Lawrence  will  no  doubt  continue  | 
to  attract  a  steady  annual  Stream  of  visitors,  desirous  of  luxuri- 
ating in  a  cool  atmospheie  and  enjoying  sea-bathing,  while  I 
ether  places  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  presenting  equal  or  | 
greater  advantages,  will  no  doubt  in  due  course  come  into  no- 
tice, and  prove  desirable  places  of  resort  so  soon  as  the  necessary  | 
facilities  for  reaching  them  shall  have  been  supplied." 

As  you  approach  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River,  the] 
waters  take  a  very  black  hue,  perceivable  for  many  miles  below, 
and  extending  far  into  the  St.  Lawrence.    Just  within  the  mouth  I 
of  the  river,  near  Tadousac,  there  is  a  round  mountain  peak, 
called  Tite  du  Boule^  about  800  feet  high,  while  on  the  oppositej 
bank  there  is  another  bold  eminence. 

Tadousac,  140  miles  below  Quebec,  is  situated  on  the  north" 
west  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth,  of  the  Saguenayj 
River.    This  is  a  post  belonging  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company. 


IVER,    ETC. 


in;  the  practice  is  be- 


QUEBEC    TO   THE    6AGUENAY   RIVER,   ETC,         351 

«nd  is  the  residence  of  one  of  its  partners  and  an  agent.  They 
alone  are  allowe*^!  to  trade  with  the  Indians  in  the  interior,  who 
occasionally  visit  this  place,  but  more  frequently  Chicoutimi,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay,  and  the  post  at  the 
Lake  of  St.  John,  where  some  of  the  company's  agents  also  re- 
side. At  Tadousac  is  a  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  a  store,  and 
warehouse,  and  some  eight  or  ten  dwellings.  Here  is  erected 
a  flag-staflf,  surrounded  by  several  pieces  of  cannon,  on  an  emi- 
nence elevated  about  60  feet  and  overlooking  the  inner  harbor, 
where  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  to  float  the  largest  vessels. 
This  place  was  early  settled  by  the  French,  who  are  said  to  have 
here  erected  the  first  dwelling  built  of  stone  and  mortar  in 
Canada,  and  the  remains  of  it  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  view  is 
exceedingly  picturesque  from  this  point.  The  southern  shore 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  traced  even  with  the  naked  eye  for 
many  a  league — the  undulating  lines  of  snow-white  cottages 
stretching  far  away,  both  east  and  west — while  the  scene  is 
rendered  gay  and  animated  by  the  frequent  passage  of  the 
merchant  vessel  plowing  its  way  toward  the  port  of  Quebec, 
or  hurrying  upon  the  descending  tide  to  the  Gulf — while  from 
the  summit  of  the  hill  upon  which  Tadousac  stands,  the  sublime 
and  impressive  scenery  of  the  Saguenay  rises  into  view. 


0 


We  extract  from  the  Report  of  the  Commissioners  for  cxplor- 
|ing  the  Saguenay,  published  in  1829,  the  following : 

"  Upon  landing  at  Tadousac,  we  proceeded  immediately  to 

lexamiiie  a  few  of  the  geognostical  characters  of  the  couniry. 

I  The  only  place  of  residence  here  is  erected  on  a  h9n\  of  sandy 

alluvium,  elevated  about  fifty  feet  above  the  river,  and  forming 

a  flat  terrace  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  which  suddenly 

I  emerges  at  a  short  distance  behind.     The  rocks  of  which  the.se 

jmountains  are  composed  is  granite,  either  of  a  red  or  gray  color, 

|(lepetiding  upon  that  of  the  feldspar.     On  the  shore  were  seen 

Ismail  deposits  of  magnetic  iron.     Here  bases  were  measured, 

land  the  requisite  angle  taken,  for  determining  the  height  of  the* 

I  most  elevated  point,  on  either  side  of  the  Saguenay,  at  its 

I  mouth,  and  this  was  found  to  be  012  feet  on  the  westerly  side, 

and  588  on  the  opposite  " 


352 


6AGUENAY    RIVER. 


L*ANCE  A  L*EAU,or  Water  Harbor,  situated  on  the  Sague- 
nay,  about  a  half  a  mile  above  Tadousac,  is  the  name  of  a  set- 
tlement where  is  an  extensive  lumber  establishment. 

The  St.  Lawrenck  River,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Sagupnay, 
assumes  an  imposing  appearance,  gradually  widening  until  its 
breadth  exceeds  one  hundred  miles. 


THE   8AGUENAY. 


"  This  river  has  its  mouth,  according  to  common  computation, 
130  miles  below  Quebec,  on  the  north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
in  latitude  48  deg.  6  min.  38  sec.  long.,  70  deg.  40  min.  west 
from  Greenwich.  It  discharges  a  much  greater  body  of  water 
than  any  other  river  that  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Indeed, 
it  is  the  largest  river  in  North  America,  the  St.  Lawrence  ex- 
cepted, east  of  the  Alleghanies. 

"  It  takes  the  name  of  Saguenay  only  below  Lake  St.  John, 
which  lies  about  120  miles  N.  by  W.  of  Quebec.  From  Tadou- 
sac, a  distance  of  about  140  miles  to  the  lake,  the  course  of  the 
river  is  nearly  east  and  west,  Tadousac  being,  as  before  stated, 
in  lat.  48  dog.  6  min.  38  sec.,  and  the  south  side  of  Luke  St. 
John  in  48  deg.  23  min.  12  sec,  giving  only  16  miles  to  the 
north  of  Tadousac." 

This  lake,  which  is  nearly  circular,  is  about  40  miles  across, 
and  it  is  the  center  of  an  extensive  region,  the  waters  of  which 
flow  into  it  from  the  north,  the  west,  and  the  south,  in  twelve 
principal  rivers,  being  discharged  to  the  east  by  the  Saguenay. 

The  streams  which  flow  into  this  lake  from  the  south,  the 
west,  and  the  northwest  have  their  sources  in  a  mountainous 
tract  which  ranges  nearly  east  and  west  for  a  long  distance, 
and  then,  far  in  the  west,  bends  northwardly,  separating  these 
waters  from  those  which  seek  the  St.  Lawrence  above  Quebec 
and  the  Ottawa ;  and  i'eg  uding  them  in  their  still  wider  rela- 
tions, they  are  part  of  the  extensive  range  of  highlands  ^vhich 
divide  the  basin  of  the  St  Lawrence  from  that  of  Hudson  Bay 
and  its  tributaries. 

"  The  country,  the  waters  of  which  are  discharged  in'o  the 
St.  Lawrence  by  the  Saguenay,  is  more  extensive  than  nil  tho 
rest  of  Lower  Canada;  but  it  has  till  lately  coutninol.  pi'<'b 
ably,  not  more  than  a  few  hundred  Indian  fam'l  oa.  who  live  hy 


]h 


8AOUBNAY    RIVER. 


853 


Bited  on  the  Sague- 

,he  name  of  a  set- 

shment. 

hof  theSaguj'nay, 

widening  until  its 


mmon  computation, 
»f  the  St.  Lawrence, 
I  deg.  40  min.  west 
jater  body  of  water 
Lawrence.  Indeed, 
le  St.  Lawrence  ex- 

;low  Lahe  St.  John, 
ebec.  From  Tadou- 
ke,  the  course  of  the 
ng,  as  before  stated, 
ith  side  of  Luke  St. 
)nly  16  miles  to  tlie 

)Out  40  miles  across, 
the  waters  of  wliich 
the  south,  in  twelve 
,st  by  the  Saguenay. 
from  the  south,  the 
les  in  a  mountainous 
for  a  long  distance, 
ily,  separating  these 
wrence  above  Quebec 
heir  still  wider  rela- 
;e  of  highlands  which 
that  of  Hudson  Bay 

discharged  in'^o  the 

tx tensive  than  all  the 

itely  contain?.!,  pn.b- 

Ijunl  03-,  wliO  Uvi  hy 


hunting  and  fishing,  and  exchange  their  surplus  with  lessees 
of  the  King's  Post,  for  a  few  articles  of  imported  produce. 

"  The  passage  of  the  waters  of  the  Saguenay  from  below  the 
Ha- Ha  Bay  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  distance  of  fifty  Liiles,  is  one 
of  the  wonders  of  nature.  They  penetrate  through  a  mount- 
ainous tract,  composed  of  sienite  granite,  forming  an  immense 
canal  in  manj  places,  with  banks  of  perpendiculr  r  rocks  rising 
from  a  thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
river,  which  is  from  a  hundred  to  a  hunared  ana  fifty  fathoms 
deep  nearly  the  whole  way,  and  from  a  mile  to  three  miles 
broad.  The  power  and  pride  of  u\B,n  is  as  much  humbled  in 
some  parts  of  this  tremendous  chasm,  as  in  the  immediate  pres- 
ence of  Niagara  Falls.  Tn  many  places  the  largest  vessel  may 
run  close  to  the  perpendicular  rocks,  with  100  fathoms  water. 
There  are,  however,  several  coves  with  good  anchorage.  In 
Ha-Ha  Bay  the  navy  of  England  might  ride,  in  from  five  to 
eighty  fathoms.  At  twelve  miles  below  Chicoutimi,  which  is 
distant  68  miles  from  Tadousac,  the  spring  tide  rises  18  feet, 
and  there  is  from  10  to  50  fathoms  at  low  water.  The  tide  rises 
and  the  river  is  navigable  seven  miles  above  Chicoutimi,  whore 
the  rapids  of  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  John  commence.  At  this 
point  a  range  cf  highlands  crosses  the  Saguenay,  extending 
along  the  head  waters  of  the  Malbay,  the  Goufi're,  the  Jacques 
Carticr,  St.  Anne,  Batiscan,  and  St.  Maurice,  and  forming  the 
south  and  western  side  of  the  basin  of  Lake  St.  John,  with  the 
Hudson  Bay  highlands  on  the  north  and  east. 

"  It  is"  only  within  a  few  years  that  there  have  been  any  agri- 
cultural settlcrc  in  the  Baguenay  country.  At  present  there 
are  a  few  hundred  families  of  stjwitttrs  from  the  north  shore 
below  Quebec,  chiefly  induced  to  go  in  by  employment  in  lum- 
bering, etc.,  for  Mr.  Price's  numerous  sawmills.  At  lla-IIa 
Bay  there  is  a  church,  and  about  150  families,  and  openings 
are  made  at  various  places  on  the  river.  The  soil  is  of  disin- 
tegrated clay  >>nd  gran'te,  with  limestone  in  some  places.  The 
general  level  of  the  land  above  Ha-Ha  Bay,  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach  from  the  river,  is  not  higher  than  the  island  of  Or- 
leans, aj  though  more  broken.  The  timber  nxixed,  i^ard  and 
soft,  and  of  a  middling  growth.  The  climate  is  milder,  if  any- 
thing, than  at  Quebec.  VVirh  the  exception  of  the  ridge  cross- 
ing below  Lake  St.  John,  already  mentioned,  the  country  to  a 
gre{\t  extent  roun<l  the  lake,  but  particularly  on  the  southwest 
side,  is  of  the  s  ime  character. 

"  On  entering  the  Saguenay  from  Tadousac,  which  is  about 
one  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  the  hills  soon  rise  abruptly  from  the 
water's  edge,  from  500  to  1,000  feet  above  the  tidvway,  pre- 
senting an  appearance  somewhat  similar  to  the  entrance  from 
the  north  into  the  '  Highlands'  of  the  Hudson  River,  with  which 


80* 


854         QUEBEC    TO    THE    8A0CENAT    RIVER,    ;CTO. 


»u 


in 


most  trayelers  are  familiar,  diyested,  however  or  all  apptiar- 
ance  of  habitation  for  many  mi^es,  and  die  Stigaeray  a\ ^rag- 
ing twice  the  width  of  the  Hudson." 

Tetk  du  Boule,  a  round  mountain  pe.ik,  rh*tsi  ou  nyQ  north 
side  of  the  river,  about  one  mile  from  its  aaor»ih.  liere  the 
rocks  and  hills  are  mostly  bare,  but  the  verdure  increases  as 
you  ascend. 

About  three  miles  from  Tadousac,  the  river  incline^  to  the 
north  for  a  few  miles,  then  resumes  its  western  course  to  Ciii- 
coutimi,  a  distance  of  sixty-eight  miles  from  the  St.  'iawrence, 
and  being  in  many  places  three  miles  in  width,  with  a  great 
depth  of  water,  until  you  arrive  at  the  bar,  about  sixty  miles 
from  its  mouth. 

The  Two  Profiles,  seen  on  the  north  shore,  a  few  miles  up, 
and  elevated  several  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  bear  a  L'trik- 
ing  resemblance  to  the  human  face. 

St.  Louis  Island  presents  a  rocky  and  rugged  appearjiTiee 
It  lies  eighteen  miles  above  Tadousac,  and  m/jy  be  passed  by 
large  vessels  on  either  side.  Here,  it  is  said,  fin(;  trout  may  be 
taken  in  large  quantities. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  river  Marguerite,  on  the  north  shore, 
and  at  St.  John's  Bay,  on  the  south,  are  lumber  establishments 
— ^the  latter  28  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Sugaenay. 

At  the  distance  of  34  niiles  from  Tadousac,  on  the  south 
shore  of  the  river,  arc  >  enormous  masses  of  rock  called 
Eternity  Point  and  Cape  Trinity.  They  rise  from  the 
water's  edge  to  the  height  of  some  1,500  feet,  and  so  abruptly 
that  they  can  almost  be  touched  with  the  hand  from  the  deck 
of  the  passing  steamer.  The  aspect  of  these  mountain  cliffs  is 
beyond  expression  grand.  No  man  can  pass  along  their  base, 
and  lift  his  eyes  up  their  vast  height,  without  awe— without 
experiencing  the  most  intense  emotions  of  sublimity.  Sheltered 
between  them  is  a  lovely  recess  of  the  shore  called  Trinity  Cove, 
its  sequestered  and  lonely  beauty  enhanced  by  its  strong  con- 
trast with  +j,e  wild  grandeur  of  the  rest  of  the  scene.  {See 
JEj.'i  graving.) 


R,    iSTO. 


QUKBEO    TO    TUB    8A0UKNAY    RIVEK,    ETC. 


855 


sr  of  all  appear- 

n5»»j(  oil  ii'G  north 
iior.iVi.  Ii«re  the 
dure  increases  as 

rer  inclino"  to  the 
em  course  to  Chi- 
,  the  St.  Viawrence, 
idth,  with  a  great 
.,  about  sixty  miles 

)re,  a  few  miles  up, 
water,  bear  a  i3trik- 

rugged  appearance 
L  may  v.e  passed  by 
^,  tm.  trout  may  be 

jn  the  north  shore, 
\iihzv  establishments 
le  Sa^jjuenay. 
)usac,  on  the  south 
Lsses  of  rock  called 
fThey  rise  from  the 
jet,  and  so  abruptly 
hand  from  the  ded 
^se  mountain  cliffs  is 
iss  along  their  base, 
ithout  awe- without 
LbUmity.     Sheltered 
called  Trinity  Cove, 
by  its  strong  con- 
of  the  scene.    (»^^^ 


Triwitt  Cape  tp,V'«:  its  name  from  the  three  peeks  of  it» 
•^.^TTrlt,  bearing  somo  redcmblance  to  three  humay  heads ;  and 
ihe  name  of  Eternity  Point  is  aburidfi"it!j  induated  br  tne 
huge  pile  of  ever-duri'ig  rock  of  which  it  is  compoaed.  The 
whole  scene — the  majestic  river,  a  hundred  fathoms  deep,  roll- 
ing along  the  base  and  in  the  shadows  of  the  vast  and  beetling 
cUflfs,  bearing  on  their  rocky  fronts  the  impress  of  Almighty 
power  and  everlasting  duration — the  whole  scene  at  this  place 
is  unsurpassed  for  its  magnificence  and  solemn  beauty. 

Continuing  up  the  Saguenay,  Statue  Point  is  next  passed, 
where  formerly  was  to  be  seen  a  rock  in  a  niche,  high  above 
the  water,  which  resembled  a  huge  human  figure.  The  niche 
is  still  visible,  but  the  figure  has  fallen  into  the  deep  wator. 

The  Tablcau  is  an  upright  rock,  rising  almost  perpendic- 
ularly from  the  water,  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet, 
situated  on  the  south  shore. 

The  scenery  in  this  vicinity,  and  for  several  miles  belaw,  is 
exceedingly  grand  and  picturesque — high  and  precipitous  hills, 
clothed  with  a  stunted  growth  of  forest  trees,  and  all  around  a 
wild  solitude,  unbroken  by  a  sign  of  habitation  or  life,  except 
occasionally  a  huge  porpoise  showing  his  back  above  the  wave, 
and  the  water-fowl  peculiar  to  these  northern  latitudes. 

Fifty-eight  miles  from  Tadousac  opens  the  Ha-Ha,  or  Great 
Bay,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  It  is  entered  on  the  left,  while 
the  Saguenay  proper  comes  down  on  the  right.  At  the  head 
of  the  bay  there  is  a  large  settlement,  with  several  extensive 
saw-mills. 

The  Bay  of  Ha-TIa — a  name  by  no  means  euphonious  or 
worthy  of  the  locality — contains  a  numerous  population  for  so 
[Dew  a  country.  Two  villages  appear  at  the  farther  extremity, 
the  population  whereof  must  number  at  least  five  hundred 
souls;  it  is  situated  about  sixty  miles  above  the  entrance,  and 
so  closely  does  it  resemble  the  Saguenay,  that  it  is  only  when 
the  traveler  has  arrived  at  its  extremity  that  the  mistake  is 
pere^iived.  The  streams  which  flow  into  this  bay  furnish  the 
hsirioup  .•  vA'^- mills  with  the  power  of  preparing  deals  for  the 


356         QUEBEC   TO   THE    SAOUEXAT    RIVER,    ETC. 


L2iil^^ 


,iiiL< 


A 


Englisli  market — and  it  is  not  an  uncommon  occurrence  to  be- 
hold three  or  four  square-rigged  Tcssels  busily  engaged  load- 
ing on  English  account.  All  the  lumber  establishments 
throughout  the  country  are  owned  by  the  firm  of  Messrs.  Price 
&  Co.,  of  Quebec,  and  although  they  entered  the  trade  in  the 
first  instance  with  the  intent  of  furthering  their  own  interests, 
the  result  has  been  that  the  men  they  employed  haye  become 
settlers,  and  brought  into  cultivation  a  large  tract  of  t>^&b\6 
land. 

From  the  entrance  to  Ha-IIa  Bay  to  Chicoutimi,  a  distance 
of  about  twelve  miles,  the  banks  of  the  river  are  less  rugged 
and  are  clothed  with  more  verdure,  and  openings  may  now  be 
seen  on  both  shores,  with  occasionally  a  habitation.  About  eight 
miles  below  Chicoutimi  there  is  a  bar,  which  can  be  passed  by 
vessels  of  a  large  size  only  when  the  tide  is  up,  this  being  the 
first  impediment  to  navigation  in  ascending  this  noble  river, 
which  for  grandeur  of  scenery  and  depth  of  water  may  vie 
with  any  other  stream  on  the  American  continent. 

Chicoutimi,  68  miles  from  Tadousac,  situated  at  the  junc- 
tion 0/  the  Chicoutimi  River  with  the  Saguenay,  where  is  a  pic- 
turesque water-fall,  is  another  post  occupied  by  the  Hudson 
Bay  CoDjpaDy,  which  has  a  resident  agent  stationed  here.  The 
settlement  now  contains  an  extensive  saw-mill,  a  few  dwell- 
ings., and  a  venerable-looking  Roman  Catholic  chapel,  of  small 
dim.;asions,  erected  in  1727.  It  is  one  of  those  stations  where, 
in  former  days,  the  indefatigable  Jesuits  established  a  home 
foT*  themselves ;  a  church  yet  remains  to  attest  their  religious 
aeal.  This  edifice  is  believed  to  have  been  one  of  the  first 
eve  pied  in  Canada.  The  locality  selected  is  singularly  pictur- 
c;>qi!?^  and  romantic.  On  one  side  the  Saguenay  pours  down  its  I 
might  y  flood,  the  shores  on  either  side  covered  to  the  water's 
edge  With  the  most  luxuriant  foliage,  while,  on  the  other  side, 
a  safe  and  commodious  bay  receives  the  mountain  torrent  of  tliej 
Ciacoutimi  River. 

The  church,  a  peculiarly  agreeable  object  in  so  remote  »j 
spoc,  stands  about  100  yards  from  the  margin  of  the  stream,  m 


QUEBEC   TO   THE   SAQUBNAT   RIVER,    ETC.         357 

the  center  of  a  plat  of  green-sward  set  out  with  shrubbery,  and 
forest  trees  crown  the  rising  ground  in  the  rear.  Here  assem- 
ble at  stated  periods  the  children  of  the  soil;  some  from  the 
region  ef  the  far  north — the  faith  which  their  fathers  were 
taught  in  earlier  ages  leading  them  to  reverence  a  spot  hal- 
lowed by  traditional  associations. 

The  steamboat  nayigation  of  the  Saguenay  ends  here,  as  the 
riyer  above  this  is  obstructed  by  rapids  and  falls.  Fifty  miles 
above  Ghicoutimi,  the  river  issues  from  Lake  St.  John,  which 
is  a  fine  expanse  of  water  of  about  80  miles  in  length,  and,  in 
the  widest  part,  the  same  in  breadth,  its  superficial  area  being 
over  600  square  miles.  The  rivers  Mistasine,  Assuapmous' 
toiUi  PeriboneOf  and  Ouatchoanish ^  all  of  which  are  large 
streams,  and  many  smaller  ones,  empty  into  Lake  St.  John, 
and  as  its  only  outlet  is  the  Saguenay,  which  also  receives  many 
considerable  streams  in  its  course,  the  great  depth  and  volume 
of  water  in  that  river  may  be  thus  accounted  for.  A  portage 
roady  or  foot-path,  runs  from  Ghicoutimi  to  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company's  station  on  Lake  St.  John. 

Lake  St.  John,  the  Saguenay,  and  the  rivers  which  they 
I  receive,  abound  in  excellent  fish,  consisting  of  white  fish,  bass, 
1  trout,  dor 6,  carp,  pike,  eels,  and  others;  the  favorite  salmon, 
during  the  spring  and  summer  months,  ascends  the  Saguenay 
for  a  considerable  distance,  and  are  taken  in  largo  quantities 
and  shipped  to  Quebec;  also  cured  and  sent  to  European  mar- 
[kets. 

"The  region  of  the  Saguenay  can  not  long  remain  silent  and 
)een  one  of  the  first  ■nnoccupied.      It  is  destined  to  become  the  }iome  of  an  active 
.   ^vi^arlv  pictur-  Bwid  enterprising  race.      The  climate  is  well  adapted  to  the 
\s  sin^,         V  j^g  ■purposes  of  agriculture,  and  the  virgin  soil  can  not  ^il  to  repay 

kenay  pours  down  ^^^  labors  of  the  farmer.  The  aspect  of  the  country  around 
jovered  to  the  water  3  ■pijjgQ^^lj^j  jg  divested  of  the  rugc;e(i  and  rwky  character  which 
li  the  other  side,Bdi8tingui.shes  the  banks  of  the  Saguenay  for  the  first  50  miles, 

lie,  on  toftlieB*^'^  '^^  *^®  traveler  advances  inland,  the  appearance  of  the 

[ountain  torren  Jeountry  indicates  a  superior  soil — while  the  climate  in  the 

icinity  of  Lake  St.  John  approaches  very  closely  to  that  of  the 
Ibiect  in  so  remote  aBMontreal  district." 

Irgin  of  the  stream,  ^M  Taken  altogether,  few  excursions  can  aflFord  more  interest  to 


R,   ETC. 

[Kscurrence  to  be- 
ly  engaged  load- 
r   establishments 
01  of  Messrs.  Price 
the  trade  in  the 
leir  own  interests, 
oyed  have  become 
ge  tract  of  enable 

loutimi,  a  distance 
er  are  less  rugged 
emngs  may  now  be 
ation.  About  eight 
ch  can  be  passed  by 
8  up,  this  being  the 
ig  this  noble  river, 
i  of  water  may  vie 
atinent. 

tuated  at  the  June- 
3nay,  where  is  a  pic- 
pied  by  the  Hudson 
stationed  here.  The 
mill,  a  few  dwell- 
lolic  chapel,  of  small 

,liose  stations  where, 
established  a  home 

attest  their  religious 


■  f'  i 


H 

va 


858      MURRAY    BAY,    TADOUSAO,    IIAHA    BAT,    ETC. 

tho  tourist  and  seeker  of  pleasure,  than  a  yisit  to  Chicoutimi  and 
its  vicinity.  Besides  having  a  view  of  the  magnificent  scenorj 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  here  may  be  seen  a  picturesque  water-fall, 
and  if  fond  of  angling  or  hunting,  the  visitor  may  enjoy  himself 
to  his  heart's  content— surrounded  by  a  vast  wilderness,  as  yet 
almost  unbroken  by  the  haunts  of  man. 


MURRAY  BAY— TADOUS  AC -HA-HA  BAY,  ETC. 

The  following  letter  was  written  by  a  gentleman  of  Phila- 
delphia : 

*'  On  Wednesday  morning,  25th  July,  1855,  we  left  Quebec 
for  the  lower  St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  rivers.      At  eight 
o'clock,  precisely,  the  steamer  Saguenay  shot  out  from  the 
landing,  and  rounding  under  the  stern  of  the  French  frigate 
La  Capricituae  made  h  ^r  way  down  the  St.  Lawrence.     The 
tin  roofs  and  spires  of  Quebec  gradually  grew  smaller  in  the 
distance,  and  the  blue  tops  of  the  Green  Mountains,  miles  away 
in  Vermont,  broke  on   the  sight.     As  we  steamed  down  tlie 
river,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Quebec  with  its  precipitous  hill, 
crowned  with  battlements,  whose  immense  guns  were  leveled 
at  us  in  the  harbor.    The  magnificent  basin  before  the  city  wai> 
dotted  with  craft  laden  with  other  tributaries  of  iLo  St.  Jnw- 
rence.     A  few  miles  below  Quebec  the  river  is  divided  by  the 
island  of  Orleans,  which  is  at  first  hilly  and  covered  with  trees, 
but  as  we  pass  along,  its  shores  becomes  flat  and  under  cultiya- 
tiou      Its  lands  are  held  under  the  eld  French  tenure,  and  its 
inhabitants  are  Canadian  French.     A  singularity  of  division  in 
lands  wliich  the  tourist  will  observe  through  Eastern  Canada, 
presents  itu,olf  very  prominently  in  this  island.     The  lands  of 
the  French  population,  at  the  owner's  doatli,  are  divided  equally 
among  the  chjldren;  and  in  order  that  each  child  may  havea| 
portion  of  the  river  front,  a  farm  is  cut  up  into  narrow  strips 
running  sometimes  a  mile  in  length  by  twenty  yards  in  breadth. 
Upon  the  front  the  house  is  built,  and  the  island  shore  is  there- 
fore a  continuous  line  of  little  wooden  houses,  backed  by  culti- 
vated fiolds 

"  In  about  an  hour  after  passing  the  island  of  Orleans.  we| 
came  to  Grosse  Isle,  upon  which  is  lo"  ited  the  Quarantine  Sta- 
tion of  Canada.  Several  largo  vessels  were  anchored  in  thej 
stream,  undergoing  the  precautionary  measures  against  infec- 
tious or  contagious  diseases.  Ample  accommodations  an 
erected  upon  the  shore  for  emigrants  suffering  from  ship-fevei 
or  similar  disorders,  and  the  Lazaretto  arrangements  of  Quel 


8G 

G 
fe 

§: 

8tl 

fri 

th( 

we 

a  n 

affc 

mu 

wer 

ing 

day 

the 

Kivj 

attl 

is  sii 

Sa^ 

settl 

out 

Law] 

high 

float 

the 

tho  a 

cei'ta 

botto 

direc 

stean 

land. 

is  one 

mass 

feet  >] 

itaba 

Theb 

the  pi 


benea 
gaze 
ing  of 
*e8p< 


irom 


BAT,   BTO. 

t  to  Chicoutimi  and 
lagnificent  scenory 
aresque  -water-fall, 
may  enjoy  himself 
t  wilderness,  as  yet 


BAY,  ETC. 
gentleman  of  Phila- 

B55,  we  left  Quebec 
V  rivers.  At  eight 
shot  out  from  the 
'  the  French  frigate 
St.  Lawrence.  The 
grew  smaller  in  the 
ountains,  miles  away 
5  steamed  down  the 
its  precipitous  hill, 
e  guns  were  leveled 
n  before  the  city  vrab 
aries  of  Iho  St.  L"W. 
rer  is  divided  by  the 
Ld  covered  with  trees, 
it  and  under  cultin. 

rench  tenure,  audits 
rularity  of  division  m 
Juch  Eastern  Canada, 
3land.  The  lands  of 
1,  are  divided  equally 
ach  child  may  have  a 
lip  into  narrow  strip 
nty  yards  in  breadth.! 
island  shore  is  there- 
uses,  backed  by  culti- 

island  of  Orleans. ^ve 
■  the  Quarantine  bW"' 
were  anchored  in  tw 
sasures  against  intec- 
accommodations  are 
iering  from  ship-fevei 
■rangements  ot  Queo* 


MURRAY    BAY,    TAD0U8AC,    HA  HA    BAY,    ETC.       359 

seem  to  be  of  the  most  perfect  kind.  On  the  mainland,  behind 
Grosse  Isle,  Cape  Tourment  lifts  its  cloud-capped  summit  1 ,800 
feet  into  the  air.     The  boat  stopped  at  Murray  Bay  to  land 

Sassengers  and  freight.  This  place  seems  to  be  the  Cape  May  of 
anada,  where  the  citizens  of  Quebec  and  Montreal  resort  in 
great  numbers,  for  salt-water  bathing.  The  long  pier  that 
stretches  into  the  river  was  crowued  with  ladies  expecting 
friends  and  relatives  by  the  boat.  During  the  summer, 
the  ladies  of  Canada,  of  every  class,  when  at  watering-places, 
wear  straw  hats,  with  rims  of  enormous  breadth,  whic!»  afford 
a  marked  contrast  to  the  minute  fixtures  which  Americaii  ladies 
affect.  The  scene  was  highly  picturesque,  and  culled  forth 
much  complimentary  notice  from  traveling  Americans  who 
were  aboard.  We  arrived  at  Riviere  du  Loup,  another  water- 
ing-place, about  dusk,  and  anchored  in  the  stream  to  await 
daylight.  At  three  o'clock  we  again  started  for  the  mouth  of 
the  Saguenay,  which  is  directly  across  the  St.  Lawrence  from 
Riviere  du  Loup.  The  8t.  Lawrence  ;s  twenty-one  miles  wide 
at  this  point.  About  five  o'clock  we  reached  Tadovsac,  which 
is  situated  on  the  point  of  land  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the 
Sa^enay  and  St.  Lawrence  At  this  place  the  French  first 
settled  in  Canada,  and  a  little  red-spired  church  was  pointed 
out  to  us  as  being  the  first  church  erected  north  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  oldest  ecclesiastical  edifice  in  America 

"  Lea  7ing  the  St.  Lawrence  at  this  point,  we  plunged  between 
high  ridges  into  the  Saguenay,  and  continued  for  five  hours  to 
float  over  its  mirror-like  expanse.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that 
the  depth  of  the  Saguenay  is  about  seven  hundred  feet  greater 
thoQ  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  into  which  it  empties,  and  in 
ceitiin  parts  a  fathom  line  of  one  thousand  feet  fails  to  touch 
bottom.  The  perpendicular  mountains  that  hem  it  in;  rise 
directly  out  of  the  water,  without  an  intervening  shore,  and  the 
steamboat  can  glide  rapidly  along  within  a  yard  of  the  solid 
land.  Cnpe  Eternity,  about  thirty-five  miles  above  Tadousac, 
I  is  one  of  the  most  striking  objects  upon  the  route.  It  is  a  huge 
I  mass  of  granite,  without  flaw  or  fissure,  rising  eighteen  hundred 
feet  in  the  air.  Hardy  birches  and  pines  cling  tenaciously  to 
its  barren  sides,  giving  the  only  indication  of  life  in  the  vicinity. 
The  boat  arrived  at  this  Doint  while  we  were  at  breakfast,  and 
the  pilot  ran  into  a  littlo  cove  beside  it,  so  as  to  give  the  pas- 
sengers a  view  of  it  from  every  side,  then  rounding  directly 
beneath  the  overhanging  mass,  we  shot  out  into  the  stream  to 
I  gaze  at  its  heavy  summit  from  the  distance.  There  was  a  feel- 
|iflg  of  indescribable  awe  in  watching  the  receding  boulder,  as 
|te  sped  up  the  stream,  and  many  an  admiring  gaze  was  flung 
[backward,  even  after  a  sudden  bend  in  the  rivtir  had  hid  it 
prom  our  view.    Tete  du  Boule,  the  Two  Profiles,  the  Tableau, 


1 

si  I 


3G0      MURRAY    BAY,    TADOUSAO,    HA-HA   BAY,    ETC. 


9i  i'} 


'% 


^  i' 


Cape  Trinity,  and  Statue  Point,  are  each  attractive  objects  that 
excite  the  admiration  of  the  tourist. 

"  Near  eleven  o'clock  in  the  forenoon  we  arrived  before  the 
little  town  which  lies  at  the  head  of  Ha-Ha  Bay^  about  00 
miles  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  having  dropped  our  anchor, 
the  passengers  were  sent  ashore  by  the  ship's  boats.     The  town 
is  merely  an  establishment  for  lumbering  purposes,  and  la 
owned  by  William  Price,  Esq.,  of  Quebec,  who  is  the  most  ex- 
tensive lumber  merchant  in  Canada.     All  the  saw-mills  upon 
the  Saguenay  belong  to  this  gentleman.     He  keeps  constantly 
employed  at  his  various  mills  about  3,000  persons,  and  freights 
over  100  vessels  annually  with  lumber.     As  only  a  fe!'.  minutes 
were  allowed  us,  before  starting  on  our  return  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence, we  preferred  remaining  upon  the  steamer's  deck  and 
inspecting  the  towc  and  adjacent  country  with  the  aid  of  a 
lorgnette.     About  Ha-Ha  Bay  the  cliflfs  almost  dii^appear  and 
some  indications  of  agricultural  attempts  are  manifest,  but  a 
sterile  soil  and  a  bleak  atmosphere  always  militate  with  til- 
lage and  farming  in  this  region     The  Governor- General  of 
Canada,  Sir  Edmund  Head,  was  expected  to  visit  the  Saguenay 
on  this  trip,  and  as  we  ran  up  before  the  town  a  salute  of  guns 
was  fired,  and  the  English  colors  run  up  the  flagstaff  on  shore. 
In  return  for  the  compliment,  Capt.  Simard  decorated  his 
steamer  with  flags  of  almost  every  nation,  and  we  left  Ila-IIa 
Bay  about  noon,  in  a  gala   attire  of  floating  bunting.     At 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  touched  at  Tadousae,  and  ini 
two  hours  after  anchored  at  the  pier  of  Riviere  du  Loup,  tO| 
wait  for  the  morning.    Early  on  Friday,  July  27,  we  started 
for  Quebec,  and  made  the  114  miles  before  four  o'clock  in  tbe{ 
afternoon. 

•'  The  greater  part  of  American  tourists  make  a  great  mis 
take  in  omitting  the  Saguenay  River.     They  miss  the  finesi 
scenery  on  this  continent,  which  they  can  view  by  an  addi 
tional  expense  of  $12  only.     The  fare  on  board  the  boat  isof| 
excellent  quality,  and  the  berths  large  and  comfortable.    Iti 
worth  a  visit  to  the  S;iguenay  to  taste  the  salmon,  that  but  ai 
hour  before  was  gliding  in  its  native  element.     As  a  matter 
information  to  those  wishing  to  make  the  trip  in  future  seaso; 
we  may  say  that  a  thick  over- coat  is  an  absolute  necessityj 
From  eleven  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  four  in  the  aftcruooi 
the  temperature  is  agreeable,  but  not  too  warm;  during  tiii 
other  hours  of  the  day  and  night  it  will  compare  exactly  witf 
our  November.     Coming  from  warmer  climates,  the  tourist  c 
not  be  too  careful  to  prepare  for  sudden  changes  of  terapsn 
ture.     We  can  not  close  our  imperfect  sketch  of  the  Saguensj 
without  a  word  of  thanks  to  Capt.  Simard,  who  commands  ' 
steamer  Sagaenay.    To  our  numerous  questions  he  politely 


ploi 
shel 


BAY,   BTO. 


ANTIC08TI. 


301 


i^\ 


active  objeots  that 

arrived  before  the 
Ha  Bay.  about  00 
•opped  our  anclior, 
8  boats.    The  town 
T  purposes,  and  i3 
?hc  is  the  most  ex- 
the  saw-mills  upon 
le  keeps  constantly 
<jrsons,  ard  freights 
J  only  a  foT.  minutes 
lurn  to  the  St.  Law- 
steamer's  deck  and 
y  with  the  aid  of  a 
Imost  disappear  and  | 
are  manilest,  but  a 
ya  militate  with  til- 
iovernor-General  of 

bo  visit  the  Saguenay 
own  a  salute  of  guns 
,he  flagstaff  on  shore, 
imard  decorated  hisl 
1,  and  we  left  Ha-1  a 
Dating  bunting.     At 
at  Tadousafe,  and  ml 
Riviere  du  Loup,  tol 
r,July27,w9  startcdl 
,re  four  o'clock  m  tbel 

ts  make  a  great  misj 

They  miss  the  nn^« 

lan  view  by  an  addH 

-  board  the  boat  is  ofl 
nd  comfortable.  It  ij 
le  salmon,  that  but  aj 
nant.  As  a  matter  ol 
trip  in  future  seisonsl 
an  absolute  nacessityl 

■^four  in  the  aftcruool 
ioo  warm ;  during  m 
compare  exactly  ^vf 
amates,  the  tourist  ci 
n  changes  of  temparal 
jketch  of  the  SaguenJ 
ird,  who  commands! 
questions  he  politely 


tUFiiod  us  full  and  satisfactory  answers,  and  we  are  greatly 
indebted  to  him  for  much  valuable  information  We  cordially 
comLxend  him  and  his  boat  to  the  attentions  of  all  American 
travelers  who  mav  hereafter  visit  Quebec.  From  all  classes  of 
Canadians,  both  French  and  Enelish,  we  met  with  the  politest 
treatment,  and  can  vouch  for  their  hospitality  and  good-will. 
In  conversation  with  numerous  intelligent  persons  from  Quebec 
and  Montreal,  we  discover  that  the  American  character  is 
greatly  admired  in  Canada,  and  an  earnest  hope  is  indulged 
uat  the  amicable  commercial  relations  noi^  in  process  of  for- 
mation between  the  two  countries  will  tend  to  introduce  some 
of  our  finer  national  characteristics  into  Canadian  affairs. 
While  they  are  eminently  loyal  to  their  sovereign,  they  yet  re- 
joice in  the  active  enersy  of  the  Yankee  race,  and  esteem  it  a 
privilege  to  live  in  such  close  juxtaposition  to  a  nationality 
whose  rapid  rise  and  hardy  vigor  reflect  honor  on  the  Angle- 
Saxon  blood.  The  kindlv  feeling  beyond  doubt  is  reciprocated 
in  the  United  States,  and  that,  too,  from  a  nobler  motive  than 
commercial  and  mercantile  gain — from  the  fraternal  feeling 
inseparable  from  nations  descended  from  a  common  stock. 
Whether  or  not  the  time  will  ever  come  when  Colonial  Canada 
will  be  a  sovereign  State,  and  part  of  our  rapidly  expanding 
confederacy,  remains  to  be  seen.  K  the  course  of  events  should 
take  such  a  turn,  we  will  acquire  a  territory  rich  in  mineral 
and  agricultural  resources,  and  one  geographically  i.dapted 
for  unexampled  greatness ;  if  not,  we  are  sure  of  a  faithful  ally 
and  a  firm  unwavering  friend."  J.  M.  Q. 


ANTICOSTI  ' 

Anticosti,  about  400  miles  below  Quebec,  is  a  large  and  im- 
portant island  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  lying  W.S.W.  and 
E.S.E.,  in  the  widest  part  of  its  estuary,  between  the  meridians 
of  61°  46'  and  64°  15'  W.,  and  dividing  the  entrance  of  the  river 
into  two  channels,  from  twenty  to  forty  miles  in  width.  It  is  about 
125  miles  in  length ;  its  extreme  breadth  is  80  miles ;  its  super- 
ficial area  1,530,000  acres.  Its  surface  is  in  general  low,  and 
covered  with  forests  of  stunted  fir,  white  cedar,  and  poplar,  or 
alluvial  flats  clothed  with  cranberry  and  blaeberry  bushes ;  but  * 
the  timber  is  of  inferior  quality,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  poor. 
Bears,  foxes,  harei,  martins,  sea-otters,  partridges,  curlews, 
plover,  and  snipe  are  numerous.  The  geological  formation  is  a 
shell  limestone  mixed  with  clay,  and  in  some  places  wholly  com- 

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posod  of  cncrinites.  The  northern  coast  is  bold  and  high,  pre- 
senting magnificent  limestone  cliffs,  which  sometimes  rise  to  the 
height  of  500  feet.  The  severity  of  the  climate  is  so  great  that 
any  grain  is  usually  nipped  in  the  bud.  In  the  month  of  June, 
ice  of  considerable  thickness  is  frequently  formed  during  the 
night ;  and  summer  is  always  far  advanced  before  the  snow  dis- 
appears. Winter  commences  in  the  early  part  of  Nv»vember, 
and  continues  till*the  middle  of  March ;  the  thermometer  rang- 
ing during  this  season  from  20°  above  to  20°  below  «ero.  The 
shores  are  then  surrounded  with  ice,  and  all  communication 
with  them  is  cut  off.  Its  shores  present  a  few  small  creeks,  but 
throughout  an  extent  of  300  miles  there  is  neither  bay  nor  har- 
bor sufficient  to  protect  ships ;  while  the  powerful  stream  setting 
jonstantly  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  shoals  which  surround 
this  island,  and  the  heavy  snow-storms  which  here  occur  in  tho 
fall  of  the  year,  with  its  position  across  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
render  it  the  frequent  scene  of  shipwrecks,  and  the  sailing  past 
it  •*  the  worst  part  of  the  voyage  to  or  from  Canada.'*  (Bonny - 
castle. )  '*  The  bearings  of  its  extreme  points  are  as  follows :  west 
point,  N.  lat.  49°  62  29",  W.  long.  64°  36'  54";  variation  22° 
55'  W.  East  point,  N.  lat.  49°  8'  30",  W.  long.  61°  44'  56"; 
mriation  24°  38'  W.  North  point,  N.  lat.  49°  57'  38",  W.  long. 
35°  14'  1".  Southwest  point,  N.  lat.  49°  23',  W.  long.  63°  43'. 
An  elevated  and  magnificent  light-house,  with  a  revolving  light, 
aow  occupies  this  point  of  the  island;  and  another  has  been 
erected  on  the  E.  coast.  Spring  tides  rise  ten  feet ;  neaps,  seven 
feet  This  island  formerly  belonged  to  Labrador,  but  was  an- 
nexed to  Lower  Canada  in  1825,  and  now  forms  part  of  the 
county  of  Saguenay.  Its  name  is  probably  a  corruption  of  the  I 
Indian  name  JVaticostee.  It  is  first  noticed  in  1535,  by  Cartier,  | 
who  gave  it  the  name  of  Assumption."    (Bouchette.) 

Gulf  or  St.  Lawrence. — On  passing  along  the  south  sidc| 
of  the  island  of  Anticosti,  entering  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
the  shores  of  Gaspe  are  seen  in  the  distance.    This  is  an  im- 
portant district  and  headland,  jutting  out  into  the  Gulf,  andl 
running  round  into  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs,  comprehending  350 


GULF    OF    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


863 


miles  of  coast ;  the  whole  extent  is  said  to  abound  with  fish  of 
different  kinds,  and  during  the  fishing  season  a  large  number 
of  vessels  and  men  are  engaged  in  taking  and  curing  fish  foi 
exportation. 

Below  where  the  Saguenay  joins  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  dis- 
tance from  shore  to  shore  across  the  latter  stream  exceeds 
twenty  miles,  and  the  width  goes  on  increasing  till  it  expands 
to  forty  miles,  from  Cape  Chatte  to  Cape  des  Monts  Pelles,  some 
three  hundred  miles  below  Quebec.  From  thence  it  goes  on  still 
further  expanding,  till  it  reaches  the  breadth  of  about  120  miles 
from  shore  to  shore,  in  a  line  drawn  from  the  extreme  point  of 
Gaspe  due  north  across  the  western  edge  of  the  island  of  Anti- 
costi,  and  so  on  to  the  coast  of  Labrador. 

The  grand  trip  from  the  Upper  Lakes  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence is  thus  spoken  of  by  a  late  writer,  on  terminating  the 
voyage:  "Through  this  magnificent  mouth  of  the  river  we 
passed  into  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence j  having  thus  traced  the 
noble  stream,  from  the  island  of  Mackinac,  in  the  strait  of 
Michilimackinac,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Huron,  down  to  the  island 
of  Anticosti,  a  distance  of  at  least  2,000  miles,  through  a  chain 
of  the  most  splendid  lakes  in  the  world,  and  with  almost  every 
variety  of  scenery  along  its  majestic  course." 

For  further  description  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  voy- 
age to  Halifax,  see  Buckingham's  Canada,  Nova  Rcotia,  etc. 


ip:lii 


7? 


364 


VALUE    OF    MONEYS. 


HH    m,.. 


VALUE  OF  MONEYS. 

The  following  information  will  be  found  valuable  to  strangers 
visiting  Canada,  and  particularly  to  emigrants  bringing  with 
them  sterling  money. 

Value  of  Colonial  Moneys. 

The  basis  of  the  currency  is  the  imperial  gold  standard,  dif- 
fering from  sterling  money  in  the  different  nominal  value  of 
the  pound  and  its  constituents. 

The  pound  sterling  is  by  law  fixed  at  Twenty-four  shillings 
and  fourpance  currency.  At  this  rate  ali  large  transactions 
are  settled,  and  remittances,  with  the  correction  of  the  day  for 
exchange,  are  calculated. 

One  pound  currency,  contains  four  dollars. 

One  dollar        "  "       five  shillings. 

One  shilling      *'  "       two  sixpences. 

One  sixpence    '*  **       six  pennies. 

One  penny        *'  "       two  coppers. 

The  value  in  sterling  of  the  pound  currency  is  rather 
over 16s.  64d. 

The  dollar  currency  rather* over «.     4s.  l|d. 

*'   shilling      "  «*  9|d. 

"   sixpence    "       rather  under 6d. 

But  in  retail  transactions  an  approximation  is  maie  to  the 
value  of  the  coins  current  in  Britain  and  the  United  States, 
and  in  small  purchases  the  following  are  the  rates  at  which 
such  coins  are  usually  paid  away : 

BRITISH. 

The  sovereign £1  4s.  6d. 

The  crown t)S.  Id. 

Half  crown 8s.  Old. 

Shilling,  called  Trente-Sous Is.  3d. 

Sixpence,    "     Quinze-Sous 7  jd. 

AMERICAN. 

Eagle , £2  10s. 

Dollar 6s.  Id. 

Half  dollar 2s.  6.M. 

Dime>  or  ten  cents 6d. 

♦       Real,  or  Ydrk  shilling 7^d. 

A  shilling  sterling  and  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  are  taken  in  the 
stores  as  equal.  The  exchangeable  value  of  the  dollar,  of 
course,  varies  with  the  course  of  exchange  between  the  Provin- 
ces and  the  United  States,  which  is  principally  ruled  by  that 
between  New  York  and  London.  In  general,  its  value  is  about 
6s.  Id.  currency,  or  4s.  2d.  sterling. 


5  to  strangers 
>ringing  with 


standard,  d.f- 
inal  value  of 

-four  shillings 
B  transactions 
of  the  day  for 


J  is  rather 

16s.  54d. 

4s.  l^d. 

9|d. 

6d. 

is  maie  to  the 
United  States, 
rates  at  which 


£1  4s.  6d. 
6s.  Id. 
3s.  OAd. 
Is.  3d. 
T^d. 

£2  10s. 
5s.  Id. 
2s.  6.\d. 

ea. 

7;^d. 

at 

are  taken  in  the 
'  the  dollar,  of 
lyeen  the  Provln- 
y  ruled  by  that 
ts  value  is  about 


APPENDIX; 


OONTAININO 


BUSINESS    AnVKRTISKMENTS 

RELATING   TO 

HOTELS,  RAILUOAD,  AND  STEAMBOAT  LINES,  ETC., 

* 

^  AFFORDING  IXFOBMATIOX  OF  INTIRE8T  TO  THB 

TRAYEUXG  PUBLIC. 


366 


APPENDIX. 


I'     ' 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Page 


y\i 


I      tt'll 


Stevens'  House,  New  York . 

Clifton  House,  Niagara  Falls 

International  Hotel      '*     . . 

Michigan  Exchange,  Detroit 
— Anglo-American  Hotel* 
Hamilton,  C.  W 4 

Biddle  House,  Detroit,  Mich, 
— Johnson's  Hotel,     "     .5 

Chippewa  House,  Saut  Ste 
Marie — Armstrong  House, 
Collingwood,  C.  W 6 

Tremont   House,   Chicago — 
Briggs'  House,        " 
Richmond  House,    "      . .   7 

American  Hotel,  Cleveland — 
Weddell  House,       " 
Commercial   Hotel,  Pene- 
tanguishene,  C.  W 8 

American  Hotel,  Toronto — 
Clarendon  House,     "     . .  9 

Russell's  Hotel,  Toronto  — 
Russell's  Hotel,  Quebec . .  10 

Wilson  House,  Brockville, 
C.  W. — Crossman's  Hotel, 
Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y. — 

•     Rowe's  Hotel,  Alexandria 
Bay,  N.  Y 11 

St.  Lawrence  Hotel,  Ogdens- 
burgh — Woodruff  House, 
Watertown,  N.  Y. — Lake 
House,  CaUwell,  N.  Y...12 

Fort  William  Henry  Hotel.  .13 

Montreal  House,  Montreal — 
St.  Lawrence  Hall,  "     .  .14 

O'Neirs  Hotel,  Quebec— Vic- 
toria Hotel,  Point  Levi, 
C.E.— La  Rochelle's  Hotel, 
River  du  Loup,  C.  E 15 

Lake  and  Canal  Transporta 
tion — Old  Oswego  Line. .  .16 

Pine  Lands  of  Michigan — St. 
Mary's  Falls  Ship  Canal 
Company 17 


Page 

Lake  Superior  Line— Steam- 
ers Illinois  and  North 
Star 18,  19 

Lake  Superior  Express  Com- 
pany— Detroit  to  Sandus- 
ky, Steamer  Bay  City 20 

Detroit  to  Mt.  Clemens— De- 
troit &  Saginaw  Steaners  21^ 

Cleveland,  Detroit,  dad  Lake 
Superior  Line  PropeUora. 

Galena,  Dunleith,  and  Min- 
nesota Steam  Packets. . . . 

ISIichigan  Central  Railroad .  21 

North  Shore  Line  Steamers- 
Detroit  to  Buffalo 25 

Michigan  Southern  Railroad 
Line  and  Steamers 26 

Lake  Ontario  and  River  St. 
Lawrence  American  Ex- 
press Line 27 

Lake  Ontario  Royal  Mail 
Line 23 

Ontario,  Simcoe  and  Huron 
Railroad,  and  Steamer ...  29 

Royal  Mail  Line — Montreal 
to  Kingston, Toronto,  etc. 30 

Montreal  and  Quebec  Steam- 
ers— Bay  of  Quinte  Steam- 
ers, etc 31 

Ottawa  Mail  Steamers 32 

Upper  Ottawa  Steamers ....  83 

Lake  George  Steamer 84 

Lake  Champlain  Steamers. .  35 

St.  Lawrence. and  Saguenay* 
Steamers .30 

Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence 
llailroad — Express  Co. . .  .37 

Grand  Trunk  Railway  of 
Canada 3 

New  England  Life  Insurance 
Company 391 

Trade  List  of  Maps,  Guide 
Books,  etc 40| 


25    BROADWAY 


N 


4,1   i: 


k 


\-'v 


VI 


A 


ADVRRTISEMENTS. 


I 


'&1 


2 


< 


CLIFTON  HOUSE, 

On  the  Canada  Side, 

Is  situated  directly  in  front  of  the  AMERICAN  and  BRITISH 
IFALLS.  Visitors  should  Check  their  Baggage  to  the  Canada 
Iside  of  the  Niagara  Suspension  Bridge,  and  hand  their  checks 
|to  porters  wearing  Badge  of 

^'CLIFTON   HOUSE. '» 

E^  OMMIBUSES  and  Baggage  Wagois  attend  the  arrival 
ttd  departure  of  all  Passenger  Trains  at  tho  Bridge. 


i 

^  I  Clifton,  C.  W. 

< 

0 

••»    1 

w 


G.  P.  SHEARS,  Proprietor. 


INTERNATIONAL  HOTEL, 


^.Jlh 


MA  ©^©©I'ilf  ^  ®^^^ 


I 


PROPRIKTOKS, 


NIAGAEA  FALLS,   (American  Side.) 


£i!n(SISIII(&.£J7   ISZ(91fiL£iS7(&Ifi2, 


JEFFERSON     AVENUE, 

Epw^rd  Lyow,    )  «,«,^.w.v. 

DanLton,  Ji>pne<,,r,.  ffi  S  T  »  0  J  T  . 


KING  STREET,  EA:iT.  HAMILTON,  C.  W. 
CHARLES  S.   COLEMAN,    Propriktor, 


Z<St^Q 


iii(a)'5M% 


ADVIRTtSEMENTB. 


BIDDLE   HOUSE 

JEFFERSON  AVENUE, 

DETROIT,       MIOH, 


This  large  and  commodious  Hotel  is  favorably  situated,  on 
i  wide  Avenue,  near  the  center  of  the  City,  being  convenient ' 
the  Railroad  Depots  and  Steamboat  Landings. 

0.  B.  DIBBLE  &  SON, 

Proprietors. 

JOHNSON'S  HOTEL, 

S.   B.   KING.    PROPRIETOR. 

Opposite  Mlrhigan  Central  R»llroad  Depot,  Corner  of 
Woodb^Sdgt*  an '  Third  Street^ 

DETROIT,    MICH. 


Ilton,  c.  w. 


^W.    IB.    ECOTV^E, 

BOOKSELLER, 

JEFFERSON   AVENUE, 
DKTROIT,    MICH. 

OHN^   R.    KERK    &    CO., 

WOODWARD  AYENUE, 

DETROIT      MIOH. 


ADVSRTI8ElfEHT8. 


CHIPPEWA   HOUSE, 


SAIJT    STE    lfI4RIE,    I«IICH 


This  favorite  Hotel  is  pleasantly  situated,  near  the  steamboat 
landings,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ship  Canals  and  in  the  immediate  | 
vicinity  of  Fort  Brady. 

No  section  of  country  exceeds  the  Saut  and  its  vicinity  fori 
fishing,  hunting,  or  aquatic  sports.  The  table  of  the  Hotel  is| 
daily  supplied  with  delightfiil  White  Fish,  and  other  varieties  of  I 
the  season,  no  pains  being  spared  to  make  this  house  a  comfort- 1 
able  home  for  the  pleasure- traveler,  or  man  of  business. 

H.  P.  SMITH, 

Proprietor. 


ARMSTRONG  HOUSE, 

COL.LINGWOOD,  G.  W. 


This  HoTBL,  adjoining  the  Railroad  Depot,  will  be  found 
desirable  stopping-place  for  the  traveler  visiting  this  section  oil 
Canada.    Nottawassaoa  Bat  and  Gborgiait  Bat,  togethej 
with  the  innumerable  islandf  which  dot  its  surface,  on  th( 
north  shoie,  altogether  afford  ample  amusement  to  the  angle 
and  sportsman. 

G.  W.  ABMSTEONG, 

Proprietor. 

ly  Steamers  leave  the  landing,  near  the  Hotel,  daily  fij 
BiMldnao,  Chicago,  Saat  Ste  Marie,  etc. 


R 


TA 


ADVBRTISBIIBVTS. 


i-#^-f 


^i^: 


Til 


llJiU 


TfTl 


'''•';^.--.^..' 


'I!;  !i»*l    !   ■!    1- 


J 


lorner  of  Lake  and  Dearborn  Streets, 

CHICAGO. 

CAGE,  BROTHES  &  DRAKE,  Preprlc!on. 


IS 


9 


mM 


3 


Randolph  Street,  CHICAGO. 
FLOYD  &.  FRENCH,  PROPRIETORS. 


RICHMOND    HOUSE, 

Michigan  Avenue,  CHICAGO. 
TABER  &.   CO.,  PROPRIETORS. 


ADVBRTISBMBNTS. 


AMERICAN  HOTEL, 

Superior  Street, 

CLEVELAND,    OHIO 


old  and  popular  Hotel,  ntuated  near  the  center  of  the 
oity,  wiU  be  found  worthy  of  patronage. 

fp»^  An  OMNIBUS  runs  to  the  different  Railroad  Depots 
and  Steamboat  Landings  for  the  conyenience  of  guests. 

A.  P,  WINSLOW, 

Proprietor. 


Mf  m  B  P  III  M        11 II IJ 

J.  F.  BOSS,  FBOPBIETOB, 

Corner  of  Superior  and   Bank   Streets, 

CLEVELAND,  OHIO. 


9 


OMNIBUSES  run  to  and  from  this  iIotel  to  the 
Depots  and  Steamboat  Landings. 


COMMERCIAL  HOTEL 

PENETAIf OUISBL2NB,  C.  W. 
JAMES  JEFFBET,  FBOpllETOB. 


Ihe  COMMERCIAL  HOTEL  is  a  comfortable  brick  house, 
newly  fomiahed,  with  a  good  Stable,  careful  Hostler,  and  every 
accommodation  for  traTelera,  and  commanding  a  splendid  view 
of  Penetanguiflhene  Bay,  conligaous  to  Qeorgion  Bay 


ADVBRT18IMBNT8. 


B  center  of  the 


AMERICAN  HOTEL, 

Corner  of  Front  and  Yonge  Streets, 

TCIONTO,  c.  w 


This  Popular  liOTEL  Is  oonyeniently  situated,  near  the  Custom 
^ouse  Wharf-  and  Steamboat  Landing,  and  in  the  Ticinity  of 
the  Railroad  Depots. 

f^  PORTERS  will  be  in  attendance  on  the  arriyal  and 
departure  of  Steameig  and  Passenger  Trains  of  Cars,  to  take 
charge  of  baggage,  etc. 


loTEL  to  the 


CLARENDON   HOUSE, 

raozfs  ST&BST,  Toaoifso. 


B.    O.   OHILiDS, 

(Late  Proprietor  of  the  International  Hotel,  Niagara  Falls,) 
announces  that  he  has  now  fdrnished  entirely  and  refitted  and 
decorated  the  above  House,  and  is  now  ready  to  accommodate 
his  old  friends  and  the  public  in  the  best  style.  Pleasure 
travelers  will  find  here  a  comfortable  home, 

BT  PORTERS  will  be  found  at  the  Steamboat  Landings  and 
Railroad  Depots,  to  take  charge  of  Baggage,  etc. 


m 


i.i-1? 


nv 


It 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


RUSSELL'S  HOTEL, 

P^L^CE     STREET, 


QUEBEC  (Upper  Town). 


This  well-managed,  and  most  comfortable  Ho  pel,  kept  by 
Messrs.  Russelb,  of  Quebec,  has  recently  bc^n  newly  painted  and 
re-furnished  throughout.  The  ball-room,  used  in  summer,  when 
the  house  is  full  of  strangers,  as  a  dining-room,  has  been  en- 
tirely re-decorated  in  the  handsomest  style.  The  room  will 
comfortably  dine  250  persons  at  a  time. —  Toronto  Globe, 
April  y  1857 


3 


CHXJRCH    STREET 


n 


r'!*  -'4 


Hi 


TORONTO,  0.  W. 


The  undersigned,  grateful  for  favors  extended  him  since  as- 1  The  pi 
Burning  the  Proprietorship  of  this  Hotel,  and  haying  effected  I  pounds, 
his  summer  &x  rangements,  is  confident  he  will  give  entire  satis- ('e^ort. 
faction  to  all  who  favor  him  witli  their  patronage. 

G.  T.  rOPE. 

Toronto,  April  21, 1857. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


"WlLSOISr   HOUSE, 

Main  Street,  Brockville,  C.  ¥. 

The  Subscriber  begs  to  intimate  to  his  friends  and  the  public,  that  he  has 
leased  the  above  premises,  and  will  feel  grateful  for  the  continuance  of 
the  patronage  heretofore  extended  to  the  Hotel. 

The  situation  of  Bbockvillk  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  on  the  whole  line 
of  the  St  Lawrence  or  Grand  Trunk  Eailroad.  From  it  the  traveler  may 
enter  at  once,  by  steamboat,  into  the  exciting  scenery  of  the  Thousand 
Islands.  Or  if  the  wonderful  Bapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  are  to  be  visit- 
ed, the  local  position  of  Brockville  renders  it  tlie  most  enticing,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  most  convenient  spot  for  taking  steamboat  downward  to 
Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Brockville  also  forms  a  comfortable  half-way  distance  between  Montreal 
and  Toronto  by  railroad,  wJiere  passengers  could  enjoy  a  quiet  night's 
rest,  and  continue  th»iir  journey,  either  East  or  We8t,,on  the  following  day, 
I  there  being  a  local  and  through  train  each  way. 

THE     WILSON    HOUSE 

I  is  commodious,  and  one  of  the  most  comfortable  in  America.    Omnibuses 
will  attend  at  the  cars  and  boatd  to  carry  passengers  to  the  House,  free  of 

I  chargo. 

Stages  leave  daily  for  SmiWa  Falls,  Perth,  Famiersville,  West' 
port,  etc. 

JOHN  BRENNAN,  Proprietor. 

Brockvillk,  March,  185T. 

HOWE'S    HOTEL, 

ALEXANDRIA    BAY, 

JKFFERSON    CO.,    N.    Y. 

This  House  is  entirely  new,  and  is  fitted  and  furnished  in  first-class 
I  style.  It  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  great  Fishing  Grounds  and  the  Thou- 
sand Islands,  which  have  become  so  noted  for  their  beauty  and  romantic 
I  scenery. 

^^  The  American  Steamers  make  regular  landings  at  this  place. 

B.  BOWE,  Proprietor. 

CROSSMON'S   HOTEL, 

AI^EXANDRIA     BAY, 

JEFFERSON  CO.,  N.  Y. 
The  proximity  of  this  House  to  the  Thousand  Islands  (the  great  fishing 
I  pounds),  as  well  as  its  airy  and  healthflil  location,  renders  it  a  desirable 
[resort. 
Tke  American  Boats  make  regular  landings  at  this  place. 
Passengers  conveyed  inland  to  any  part  of  the  county. 

CHAEXES  CEOSSMON.  Proprietor. 


t 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


*f    } '  '<i.  * 


r^''  t"" 


LAKE  HOUSE, 

LAKE   GEORGli. 


This  old  and  popular  Hotel  is  delightfully  located  at  the 
head  of  the  Lake,  and  surrounded  by  extensive  and  well- shaded 
grounds.  The  traveling  public  from  the  South  will  find  at 
Morcau  Station  coaches  to  convey  passengers  over  a  fine  plank 
road  to  the  House,  affording  a  pleasant  and  speedy  mode  of 
conveyance  from  Saratoga  Springs.  The  Lake  Champlain 
Steamers  land  and  receive  passengers  at  Ticonderoga,  connect- 
ing by  Stage  with  the  Steamer  on  Lake  George,  affording  a 
most  delightful  excursion. 

^^*  Cottages  and  Rooms  can  be  engaged  by  mail,  addressed 
to  Lake  House,         JOHN  F.  SHERRILL,  Proprietor, 

Caldwell,  Warren  County,  N.  Y 


■  h  . 


n  -.« 


1 1  i 


WOODRUFF    HOUSE, 

(Opposite  the  Park,) 

W  A  TERTO  WN,   N.   Y. 
D   DOBSET,  Proprietor. 

ST.  LAWREIirCB  HOTEL, 

Corner  of  Ford  and  State  Streets, 

OQDENSBURGK,   N.Y. 
D.  DOBSET,  Proprietor. 


.^^*  An  OMNIBUS  runs  from  the  Fotil  to  the  Depots  and 
Steamboat  I  andings,  for  the  convenience  of  guests. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


THE 


FORT  WILLIAM  HENRY  HOTEL, 

OPENED    FOR   THE    RECEPTION    OF    GUESTS    ON    THE    IST 


JUNE,    1857. 


This  is  a  new  Hotel,  erected  in  1855,  situated  at  the  south 
end  of  Lake  George,  immediately  adjoining  the  ruins  of  Fort 
William  Henry,  and  a  short  distance  from  the  Lake  House. 
It  has  a  "view  of  the  Lake  for  miles  northward. 

The  house  and  furniture  have  cost  about  $97,000.  It  is  335 
feet  in  length  on  the  Lake,  and  42  feet  deep,  with  a  wing  192 
feet  in  the  rear.  The  grounds  are  laid  out  in  the  most  beauti- 
ful manner,  with  fountains,  etc.  The  house  can  comfortably 
accommodate  350  guests. 

Water  is  brought  for  the  use  of  the  Hotel  from  a  mountain 
spring,  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  is  carried  to  every  part  of 
the  house,  furnishing  a  full  supply  of  Hot  and  Cold  Baths ;  the 
house  is  lighted  throughout  with  gas. 

The  Hotel  contains  every  comfort  and  convenience  that  can 
be  desired,  and  is  furnished  in  a  style  not  inferior  to  our  first- 
class  city  hotels. 

The  rooms  are  all  large,  with  complete  ventilation,  and  most 
of  them  connect,  so  that  suites  of  rooms  may  be  had,  or  private 
parlors,  as  may  be  preferred.  A  Livery  Stable  is  connected 
with  the  house,  together  with  an  abundance  of  stable  and  barn 
room.  A  Billiard  and  Bowling  Saloon  is  also  attached  to  the 
Hotel. 

1^  All  communications  to  be  addressed  to  "  Caldwell, 

Warren  County,  N.  Y." 

DANIEL  QALE,  Proprietor 


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ADVERTISEMSNTS. 


COLEM^:S^'S 


MOITMAL  HOUSi 


COBNEB  or 

CKJSTOinL    IIOVfilE   »<|Ui&RK. 


This  spacious  Hotel  is  conveniently  and  prominently  situ- 
ated,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is 
unsurpassed  by  any  house  in  the  city  for  its  style,  finish,  and 
arrangements  for  Travelers  or  Visitors  to  the  city,  on  business 
or  pleasure. 

The  Proprietor,  having  made  extensive  arrangements  for 

the  accommodation  of  his  guests,  and  being  determined  that 

none  shall  go  away  dissatisfied,  anticipates  the  continuance  of 

that  liberal  share  of  public  patronage  which  has  heretofore 

been  bestowed. 

J.  WARREN  COLEMAN,  Proprietor. 


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Great  St.  James  Street, 

MONTREAL. 

This  splendid  Hotel,  which  is  situated  in  the  most  beautiful 
part  of  the  City  of  Montreal,  near  the  Banks  and  Post-Ofl&ce, 
is  furnished  throughout  in  the  best  style  of  the  New  York  and 
Boston  Hotels,  and  comprises  a  DINING  SALOON  and  CON- 
CERT BOOM,  unequaled  by  any  Hotel  in  Canada. 

^^/^  The  TABLE  will  receive  special  attention,  with  the  viei? 
of  rendering  it  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any  in  America. 

HOT  and  COLD  BATHS  can  be  had  at  all  hours ;  and  an 
OMNIBUS  will  always  be  in  attendance  on  the  arrival  or  de- 
parture of  Railway  Cars  and  Steamboats. 

PENN  &  HOQAN,  Proprietors. 


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prominently  situ- 

Lawrence,  and  is 

I  style,  finish,  and 

5  city,  on  business 

arrangements  for 
I  determined  that 
the  continuance  of 
sh  has  heretofore 

iN,  Proprietor. 


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the  most  beautiful 

ka  and  Post-Office, 

the  New  York  and 

LLOON  and  CON- 

nada. 

tion,  with  the  "vieT^ 

in  America. 

EiU  hours ;  and  an 

the  arrival  or  de- 

\.N,  Proprietors. 


ADVEHTISEMRNTS. 


O'NEIL'S   HOTEL, 

Late  Swords, 
ST.  LEWIS  STREET,  UPPER  TOWN,   QUEBEC. 

The  Proprietor  bees  to  return  thanks  to  the  public  for  the 
kind  patronage  which  has  been  liberally  bestowed  on  him,  and 
informs  them  that  he  has  in  many  wars  improved,  with  regard 
to  elegance  and  comfort,  this  old  and  well  known  Establishment. 

His  DINING  HALL  has  been  re-fitted  according  to  the 
PARISIAN  STYLE,  and  he  flatters  himself  that  his  Table  will 
be  second  to  none  in  the  Country.  As  to  the  situation  of  the 
HoTEX.,  it  is  in  one  of  the  most  central  and  healthiest  parts  of 
the  City.  It  is  also  contiguous  to  the  Court  House,  Olympic 
Theater,  Governor's  Garden,  Citadel,  Durham  Terrace,  and 
other  places  of  public  resort. 

ADJOINING  THE  TERMINUS  OF  THE  GRAND  TRUNK    RAILWAY. 

POINT  LEVI,  OPPOSITE  QUEBEC. 

WILLIAM  NORMAN,  for  many  years  connected  with  the 
Cunard  Line  of  Steamers,  begs  leave  to  inform  the  Nobility, 
Gentry,  and  Traveling  Public,  that  he  has  taken  the  above 
HoTii^L,  where  every  attention  shall  be  paid  to  those  honoring 
him  with  a  visit. 

^^*  STEAMBOATS  crossing  from  the  Hotel  to  Quebec 
every  10  minutes. 

Permits  to  the  Citadel  to  be  had  at  the  bar. 


LA  ROCHELLE'S  HOTEL, 

RIVER  DU  LOUP,  EN.  BAS.  C.  E. 

The  agreeable  temperature  of  River  D(j  Loup,  its  magnifi- 
cent scenery  added  to  the  presence  of  salt  water,  is  rendering  it 
every  year  a  more  fashionable  resort.  Here  the  business  man 
can  find  relaxation,  and  recover  his  wonted  energy ;  the  invalid 
be  restored  to  health  by  the  recuperative  power  of  salt-water 
bathing  and  a  genial  temperature,  and  even  the  healthy  be  re- 
moved from  the  oppressive  heat  of  a  southern  latitude. 

The  Subscriber  has  fitted  up  his  Establishment  to  meet  the 
requirements  of  Summer  Travelers,  and  will  spare  no  effort  t-^ 
make  his  guests  comfortable. 

^^^*  His  Table  is  daily  supplied  with  fresh  Salmon-Trout, 
Shad,  Herrings,  Sturgeon,  etc. 

EUGENE  LA  ROCHELLE,  Proprietor. 


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ADVERTISEMENTS. 


OLD  OSWEGO  LINE. 

CAPITAL   $300,000. 

INCORPORATED  MDER  THE  LAWS  OF  THE  STATE 

OF  NEW  YORK. 


D.  C.  LITTLE  JOHN,  Prkstdent, 
H.  FITZHITGH,  Vici.>Pbe8idujnt, 
h.  H.  FyvILTNG,  Sbcrktary, 
K.  FITZIIUGII,  Jr.,  TREASURan, 


OswBoa 


Merchandise  and  other  Property  forwarded  to  and  from  the  West, 
via  Canal  to  Oswego,  thence  by  Steam  or  Sail  on  the  Lakes,  QUICKER 
and  CHEAPER  than  by  any  other  water  communication. 

NO  TBAHSHIFMEMT  AT  ALBANY  OR  TROT. 

NEW  YORK  AGENT.— F.  8.  LITTLEJOHN,  100  Broad  Street. 

ALBANY  AGENT.-A.  H.  THOMPSON,  96  Pier. 

CONTRACTING  AGENTS  IN  NEW  YORK.— F.  S.  LITTLEJOHX, 
E.  HARVEY,  for  Canada,  W.  H.  JENNISON,  100  Broad  Street. 

Wester^l  Agents.— GEO.  M.  CHAPMAN,  Chicago,  Office  with 
James  Peck  &  Co. ;  ALBERT  LEE,  MilwauTceo ;  F.  B.  DANE,  Toledo; 
GEO.  THORNTON,  Sandusky,  Office  with  Thornion  &  FiTzniron. 

Western  Consignees.— JAMES  PECK  «fe  CO.,  Chicago;  DOUSE- 
MAN  &  CO.,  Milwaukee:  CATLIN  k,  ERWIN,  Detroit;  FIELD  & 
KING,  and  SINCLAIR  &  CO,  Toledo;  THORNTON  <&;  FITZHUGH, 
Sariusky;  GUYLES,  FOOT  «fe  BASH,  Cleveland. 

Lake  Ontario  Consignees.  —  D.  C.  LITTLEJOHN,  Peesident, 
Office  of  Company,  Oswego ;  BROWN  &  MALCOMSON,  Hamilton,  C. 
W. ;  R.  K.  CHISHOLM,  Oakville,  C.  W. ;  UPTON  &  BROWN,  M  J. 
BORST  &  CO.,  T.  J.  MILLER  h  CO.,  and  ROBERT  MAITLAND, 
Toronto,  C.  W. ;  G.  M.  KINGHORN,  Kingston,  C.  W. ;  N.  CORNELL, 
Lewiston,  N.  Y. ;  A.  LANE,  Youngstown,  N.  Y. ;  FULLER  h  WOOD- 
WORTH,  Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y. ;  E.  B.  ALLEN  «fe  SON,  Ogdensburgh, 
N.  Y. ;  FOWLER  &  ESSELTYNE,  Clayton,  N.  Y. 

^r-Mark  Packages,  "OLD03W:'GO  LINE/'  and  Skip  Daily 
from  Pier  8,  E.  B.,  New  York. 


ADVERT1REMENT8. 


JUli«lWU.         ^jjg  SAINT  MARY'S  FALLS 


LINE. 

)00. 

OF  THE  STATE 


[)8WB0a 


>  and  from  the  "West, 
le  Lakes,  QUICKER 
ation. 

OB  TROY. 

00  Broad  Street, 
r. 

?.  S.  LITTLEJOHN, 
Broad  Street, 
'hicago,  Office  with 
.  B.  DANE,  Toledo; 
)N  &  FiTZHxron. 
,  Chicago;  DOUSE- 
Detroit;  FIELD  & 
rON  &  FITZHUGH, 

EJOHN,  Peesident, 
MSON,  Hamilton,  C. 
tr  &  BEOWN,  M  J. 
BERT  MAITLAND, 
3.  W. ;  N.  CORNELL, 
FULLER  *  "WOOD- 
\i  SON,  Ogdensburgh, 

r. 

B,"  and  Ship  Daily 


S|tp  Canal  Compng 


OrrSR    FOR    8A& 


THEIR    ENTIRE   SELECTION  OF 


550,000  AfTes  of  Pine  and  Farming  Land 

IN     MICHIGAN. 


These  compriGe  some  of  the  choicest  and  most  desirable  lands 
in  the  West,  either  for  settlement^  as  an  investment,  or  for 
lumbering  purposes* 

Unlike  a  considerable  portion  of  the  Pine  Lands  of  the 
country,  these  lands  are  valuable  for  farming  purposes  after 
the  timber  is  cut  oflf.  They  were  selected  with  great  care,  with 
particular  reference  to  the  quality  and  quantity  of  the  Pine, 
and  their  locality  on  the  large  streams  of  the  State. 

T'hese  lands  are  more  favorably  situated  in  reference  to  the 
Chicago  Market,  than  any  other  Western  thnber  lands.  Some 
of  the  fineso  Pine  timber  is  located  within  16  miles  of  Lake 
Michigan,  with  good  water  communication  to  the  t  «\ke,  and 
with  but  150  miles  of  Lake  navigation  to  Chicago. 

Particular  information  given,  and  description  cf  land  fur- 
nished, on  application  to 

GEO.  S.  FEOST,  Land  Agent 

Land  OryiCE  St.  Mary's  Falls  Ship  Canal  Co.,  > 
Detroit,  Michigan.  y 


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ADVERTISEMENTH. 


McRSriaBT'S 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  LINE. 


The  Splendid  Low  Pressure  Steamer  ILLINOIS,  t'apt.  Johw 
WiLsox,  will  run  the  ensuing  season  between  Clbveland,  De- 
troit, Saut  Stb  Marie,  Superior  Citi,  and  intermediate 
ports  on  Lake  Superior,  as  follows: 


Leaves  Cluveland  at  7  o'clock  p.m. 

Tueuday May  6 

Friday* '*  15 

Ttiesday "  26 

Friday* June  6 

Tuesday "16 

Friday* "  26 

Tuesday July  7 

Friday* "  17 

Tuesday "28 

Friday* August  7 

Tuesday "     18 

Friday* "     28 

Tuesday Sept.  8 

Friday* •'    18 

Tuesday "   29 


Leaves  Detroft  10  o'clock  a  m. 

Wednesday May  6 

Saturday* "16 

Wednesday "27 

Saturday* June  6 

Wednesday "17 

Saturday* "  27 

Wednesday July  8 

Saturday* "    18 

Wednesday "   29 

Saturday* ;  Aug.  8 

Wednesday "  10 

Saturday* **   29 

Wednesday Sept.  D 

Saturday* "   19 

Wednesday "   30 


The  days  of  leaving  Cleveland  and  Detroit  after  Oct.  1st 
will  be  irregular,  but  will  be  as  near  the  above  schedule  aa 
weather  will  permit. 

The  ILLINOIS  is  a  first-class  upper-cabin  Steamer,  1,000 
tons  burthen,  fitted  and  furnished  with  spacious,  airy  state- 
rooms, and  all  the  modern  improvements  for  safety  and  comfort. 

Pleasure-seekers  will  find  this  route  unrivaled  for  salubrity 
of  climate,  beauty  and  variety  of  scenery ;  while  an  opportunity 
is  afforded  to  visit  the  rich  Iron  Mines  at  Marquette,  and  the 
unrivaled  Copper  Mines  at  Eagle  River  and  Ontonagon. 

f^  Parties  at  a  distance  wishing  to  secure  State-Kooms,  can 
do  80  by  addressing  the  Subscriber, 

S.  Mcknight,  Detroit. 

^^^  In  addition  to  Steamer  Illinois,  two  first-class  Propel- 
LSRs  are  run  in  this  line,  carrying  heavy  freight,  etc. 

,  I  ,  I  HI  I  ■       * 

*  Goes  to  Superior  City.    All  other  trips  termiaate  at  Oxtokaook. 


ADYEKTISRMENTS. 


LINE. 


NOIS,  tapt.  JoHw 
n  Clbveland,  Db- 
and  intermediate 


^Rorr  10  o'clock  a  m. 

May  6 

'«  16 

"  27 

June  6 

»*  17 

*'  27 

Julys 

**   18 

<•   29 

Aug.  8 

"   19 

*'   29 

Sept.  H 

"   19 

"   30 

ROiT  after  Oct.  1st 
above  schedule  as 

>in  Steamer,  1,000 
acious,  airy  state- 
safety  and  comfort, 
valed  for  salubrity 
tiile  an  opportunity 
f  arquette,  and  the 
Ontonagon, 
e  State-Kooms,  can 

NIGHT,  Detroit. 

first- class  Propel- 
sight,  etc. 

ite  at  Ontokaooic. 


IMl  glFlil©!  um 


THE  STEAMER 


ISrORTH    STA.R 


B.  0.  SWEET,  Master, 


LeAVFS    Cr.EVKT.ANP,    AS    FOLLOWS, 

AT  S  o'clock  P.m. 

ThuMfla y April  80th 

Monday! May  llth 

Thursday "     2t8t 

Mondav June  Ist 

Tliursd'ay "   llth 

Mondav "    22d 

Thursday July  2d 

Mondav "  18th 

Thursday "   28d 

Mondav Aug.  8d 

Thursdav "    18th 

Monday* "  24th 

Thursday Sept.  8d 

Mondav '^  14th 

Thursday "  24th 

Mondav* Oct.  6th 

Thursday "  IMh 

Monday.... "  26th 

Thursday Nov.  5th 

Monday "   16th 


Leaves  Pktroit,  as  follows, 
AT  lu  o'clock  a.m. 

Friday May  1st 

Tuesday "  12th 

Friday "    22d 

Tuesday June  2d 

Friday "  12th 

Tuesday.... "    2.Sd 

Friday July  8d 

Tuesday "  14th 

Friday "  24th 

Tuesday Aug.  4th 

Friday "    14th 

Tuesday "   25th 

Friday Sept.  4th 

Tuesday "   16th 

Friday "    25th 

Tuesday Oct,  6th 

Friday "   16th 

Tuesday "  27th 

Friday Nov.  6th 

Tuesday "    17th 


.The  NORTH  STAR  is  not  surpassed,  ^n  point  of  speed  and  accommo- 
dations, by  any  boat  on  the  Lakes.  She  built  for  this  particular  trade, 
is  over  1,100  tons  burthen,  is  fast,  staun'  n,  and  new.  She  performs  her 
trips  with  surprising  regularity,  and  Is  so  well  appointed  ana  Airnished  aa 
to  make  her  a  PALACE  HOME  to  the  pleasure  traveler. 

The  LAKE  SUPERIOR  ROUTE,  In  the  Summer  Season,  is  altoffether 
the  most  picturesque,  healthful,  and  delightful  to  be  found  on  the  Ameri- 
can Continent.  It  contains  the  grand,  the  beautif\il,  and  the  useful ;  and 
bids  fair  to  be  one  of  the  most  fashionable  resorts  in  the  United  States.  It 
includes  in  its  circuit  the  Detroit,  St.  Clair,  and  St.  Mary's  Rivers ;  Lakes 
St.  Clair,  Huron,  and  Superior ;  the  beautiful  Islands  on  the  Route,  the 
Pictured  Rocks,  Marquette,  Copper  Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  Eagle  River, 
Ontonagon,  La  Pointe,  and  Superior  City,  besides  many  other  localities  of 
great  interest  and  attractive  scenery. 

To  the  invalid,  the  eool  and  bracing  climate  will  be  highly  salubrious, 
while  sportsmen  find  the  facilities  for  fishing  and  hunting  of  the  most  invit- 
ing character.  The  Copper  and  Iron  Mines,  the  leading  business  interest  of 
this  region,  will  always  continue  to  attract  the  enterprising  and  scientiflo 
to  their  vicinity,  and  the  new  and  easy  communication  by  the  Saut  Sto 
Marie  Canal,  have  made  the  voyage  one  of  uninterrupted  comfort  and 
pleasure. 

^F°  Rooms  secured  for  the  round  trip  (time  8  days,  distance  2,000 
miles),  by  addressing  8.  &  A.  TURNER,  Cleveland,  0. 

8.  P.  BRADY,  and  CRAGG  &  BROTHER, ) 
Agents,  Detroit,  Michigan.  f 


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ADVERTISEMENTS. 


MORNING  LINE. 

Detroit  to  Sandusky,  Cleveland,  Springfield,  Dayton, 

Cincinnati,  etc., 


The  New  Low  Pressure  Steamer,  BAY  CITY,  Capt.  J.  W. 
Keith,  will  leave  the  dock  of  the  M.  C.  R.R.,  Detroit,  every 
morning  (Sundays  excepted),  on  the  arrival  of  the  Train  from 
the  West,  connecting  at  Sandusky  with  Railroads  direct  to 
Cleveland,  Springfield,  Dayton,  Cincinnati,  and  points  South. 

Cy  For  THROUGH  TICKETS,  apply  at  the  Clerk's  Office  on 
board  the  Boat. 

Freight  contracted  to  Cincinnati  and  Columbus  at  the  lowest 
rates.  CATLIN  &  ERWIN, 

\gents,  Detroit. 


LAKE  SUPERIOR  EXPRESS  COMPANY, 

106   JEFFERSON   AVENUE, 
DETROIT. 


Having  resumed  their  Express  to  Mackinac,  Saut  Ste  Marie, 
Marquette,  Copper  Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  Eagle  River,  Onton- 
agon, and  Superior,  they  are  prepared  to  do  a  General  Express 
Business  to  the  above-named  places. 

Each  Express  will  be  in  charge  of  Special  Messengers,  who 
will  be  provided  with  Iron  Safes,  for  the  safety  of  Money, 
Valuable  Parcels,  Jewelry,  etc. 

The  LAKE  SUPERIOR  EXPRESS  COMPANY  connect  at 
Detroit  with  AMERICAN  EXPRESS  COMPANY,  for  all  parts 
of  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

C.  FARGO,  Agent,  Detroit. 
Office  with  American  Express  Company. 


aDViCRTISRMRNTB. 


DETROIT  TO  MT.  CLEMENS,  MICH. 

Great  Saving  of  Time  and  Distance* 

THROUGH  TO  MT.  CLEMENS  IN  TWO  HOURS,  VIA 

NEW  LIVERPOOL. 

FAST  AND  SPLENDID  STEAMER 


CAPT.  JOHN  A.  SLOANE, 

Will  commence  her  Daily  Trips  (Sundays  excepted), 

Leaving  Detroit,  foot  of  First  Street,  at  10  o'clock  a.m 

Leaving  New  Liverpool  at  1  o'clock  p.m. 

BP*  An  Omnibus  will  leave  on  arrival  of  the  Boat  at  Mt. 
Clemens  at  12  m.,  and  connect  with  all  Stage  Lines  for  Romeo, 
Almont,  Dryden,  Utica,  etc. 

For  Freight  or  Passage,  apply  on  board,  or  to 

CATLIN  &  ERWIN,  foot  of  First  Street,  Detroit 
A.  S.  GUERBER,  New  Liverpool,  A:ich. 


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DETROIT  AND  SAGINAW. 

The  New  Fast-Sailing  Low  Pressure  Steamer,  FOREST 
QUEEN,  George  H.  Cottrel,  Captain,  will  ply  between 
Detroit  and  Saginaw  during  the  season,  as  follows  : 

Leaves  the  dock  of  A.  E.  Bissell,  Detroit,  every  Monday  and 
Thursday  Morning  at  9  o'clock. 

Leaves  Saginaw  City  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  at  1  p.m. 

AGENTS.— A.  E.  Bissell,  Detroit;  D.  H.  Jerome,  Sag- 
inaw City ;  Beech  &  Moores,  East  Saginaw,  Mich. 

FOR   SAGINAW. 

The  Steamer  SAM  WARD,  Running  between  Detroit  and 
Saginaw,  will  take  Freight  at  Low  Rates,  to  all  ports  on  the 
River  St.  Clair,  to  Lexington,  Cherry  Creek,  Forestville,  Sand 
Beach  Bay,  Willow  Creek,  Fort  Austin,  and  Towas  Bay. 

.^^*  This  Boat  will  make  two  trips  per  week,  touching  at  the 
above  places,  and  will  take  Passengers  and  Freight  cheaper 
than  they  can  be  got  by  any  other  route. 

JOHN  HUTCHINGS,  Agent,  Detroit. 


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ADVERTISEMENTS. 


CLEVELAND,  DETROIT,  AND 
LAKE  SUPERIOR  LINE. 


On  the  Opening  of  Navigation  three  first-class  Propellers, 
carrying  Freight  and  Passengers,  will  constitute  the  above  line, 
running  regularly  from  Cleveland  and  Detroit  to  Superior 
City,  stopping  at  all  intermediate  points  on  Lake  Superior 
The  line  will  be  composed  of  the 

IRON  CITV Capt.  J.  E,  Turner. 

MANHATTAN "     C.  Ripley. 

(New  Boat) *'     John  Spalding. 

The  '*  Iron  City"  is  a  new  boat,  built  last  season,  and  is 
one  of  the  fastest  boats  on  the  Lake.  The  "  Manhattan"  has 
undergone  a  thorough  repair,  and  is  a  sound,  staunch  boat  in 
every  particular.  The  new  boat,  now  being  built  expressly  for 
the  trade,  with  ah  the  modern  improvements  for  Freight  and 
Passengers.  These  boats  are  fitted  up  expressly  for  Freight 
and  Passengers.  Every  attention  will  be  given  to  the  comfort 
of  Passengers,  and  the  prompt  delivery  of  Freight  consigned  to 
their  carp. 

j^^*  For  Freight  or  Passage,  apply  to 

HANNA,  GARRETSON  &  CO.,  Cleveland. 

J.  G.  HUSSEY,  Cleveland. 

G.  0.  WILLIAMS  &  CO.,  Detroit. 

WM.  P.  SPAULDING,  Saut  Ste  Mario. 

J.  P.  PENDEILL,  Marquette. 

P.  M.  EVERETT, 

WM.  P.  RALEY,  Copper  Harbor. 

S.  LEOPOLD  &  CO..  Eagle  Harbor. 

PITTSBURGH  &  BOSTON  MINING  CO.,  Eagle  River. 

CARSON  &  CLOSE,  Ontonagon. 

E.  M.  LIVERMORE, 

J.  AUSTRIAN,  La  Pointe. 

C.  C.  CHILD,  Bayfield. 

H.  ROBBINS,  Sunerior. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


)IT,  AM 

LINE. 


ilass  Propellers, 
ute  the  above  line, 
:roit  to  Superior 
on  Lake  Superior 

Turner. 

RIPLEY. 

N  Spalding. 

ast  season,  and  is 
^Ian-iattan''  has 
d,  staunch  boat  in 
built  expressly  for 
s  for  Freight  and 
ressly  for  Freight 
vren  to  the  comfort 
eight  consigned  to 


ad. 


Eagle  River. 


GALENA,  DUNLEITH,  AND  MINNESOTA 

PACKET    COMPANY. 


ORRIN  SMITH,  President,  Galena,  111. 
J.  P.  FARLEY,  Vice  President,  Dubuque. 
GEO.  C.  BLISH,  Secretary,  Galena. 


MOllNING  AND  EVENING  LINE  TO  ST.  PAUL, 

AND  A  DAILY  LINE 
FUOifl    GALENA    TO    ROCK   ISLAND. 


The  Boats  of  this  Company  will  make  regular  trips  between  GALENA, 
DUBUQUE,  DUNLEITH,  AND  ST.  PAUI.,  connecting  at  Dunlelth  with 
tlie  trains  of  the  ILLINOIS  CENTRAL  RAILROAD  from  the  East  and 
South,  going  up  and  returning— stopping  at  ail  intermediate  points,  and 
remaining  sufficiently  long  for  passengers  to  VISIT  THE  FALLS  OF  ST. 
ANTHONY. 

The  following  Boats  comprise  the  line  between  Galena,  Dubuque,  Dun- 
leith,  and  St  Paul : 

NORTHERN  LIGHT Capt.  Prestos  Lodwick. 

GREY  EAGLE "  D.S.Harris. 

NORTHERN  BELLE «  J.  Y.  Hurd. 

KEY  CITY "  J.  WoRDEX. 

WAR  EAGLE "  A.  T.  Kingman, 

GALENA "  W.  H.  Lauohton. 

CITY  BELLE "  Kennedy  Lodwiok. 

GOLDEN  ERA "  John  Soott. 

GRANITE  STATE "  W.  H.  Gabbekt. 

GOLDEN   STATE "  S.R.Harlow. 

ALHAMBRA "  E.  McGuieb. 

All  flrst-class  Steamers,  commanded  by  the  most  skillftil  and  gentle- 
manly officers,  and  are  fitted  up  with  a  view  to  the  safety  and  comfort  of 
Passengers. 

^r-  Being  UNITED  STATES  MAIL  BOATS,  their  punctuality  can 
be  relied  upon. 

THIS  COMPANY  WILL  ALSO  RUN  THE 

FANNY  HARRIS Capt.  R.  Andrews. 

KATE  CA8SELL "     

Between  Galena  and  Rock  Island,  making  a  Daily  Line,  connecting  at 
Rock  Island  with  the  CHICAGO  AND  ROCK  ISLAND  RAILROAD- 
and  the  ST.  LOUIS,  KEOKUK,  AND  ROCK  ISLAND  LINE  OF  FIRST 
CLASS  STEAMERS,  and  at  Fulton  City  with  the  trains  of  the  CHICAGC 
FULTON,  AND  IOWA  RAILROAD,  and  at  Galena  with  the  boats  of  tt 
GALENA,  DUBUQUE,  DUNLEITH,  AND  ST.  PAUL  LINE. 

J.  F.  HILLS,  Freight  Agent,  Dnnleith,  III 


ii 


■I- 


I  <.i 


ill 


i'  i 


•  f,*. 


i  4 


ADVKRTISEMEJJT8. 


MICHia^N 


CENTRAL  RAILROAD 


PASSENGEB  TBAINS  WILL  RUN  AS  FOLLOWS : 

GOING   WEST. 

MAIL  TRAIN— Daily,  except  Sundays,  leaves  Detroit  at  6.30  a.m.,  and 
stops  at  all  Be^lar  and  Signal  Stations. 

DAY  EXPRESS— Dally,  except  Sundays,  at  10.15  a.m.,  will  stop  only 
at  Ypsilanti,  Ann  Arbor,  Chelsea,  Jackson,  Albion,  Marshall,  Battle  Creek, 
Kalamazoo,  Decatur,  Niles,  Michigan  City,  Lake,  and  Calumet. 

EVENING  EXPRESS-Except  Saturdays  and  Sundays,  at  6.20  p.m., 
will  stop  at  all  Regular  and  Signal  Stations  as  far  as  MarshalL  West  of 
Marshall,  it  stops  at  Regular  Stations  only. 

NIGHT  EXPRESS— Daily,  at  9.20  t.M.,  stops  only  at  Ypsilanti,  Ann 
Arbor,  Jackson,  Albion,  Marshall,  Battle  Creek,  Kalamazoo,  Decatur, 
Niles,  Michigan  City,  Lake,  and  Calumet  * 

GOING   EAST. 

MORNING  EXPRESS— Leaves  Chicago,  daily,  except  Sundays,  at 
6.15  A.M.,  and  makes  all  the  stops. 

DAY  EXPRESS— Daily,  except  Sundays,  at  7.45  a.m.,  stops  only  at 
Calumet,  Lake,  Michigan  City,  Niles,  Decatur,  Kalamazoo,  Battle  Creek? 
Marshall,  Albion,  Jackson,  Ann  Arbor,  and  Ypsilanti. 

EVENING  EXPRESS— Daily,  except  Saturdays  and  Sundays,  at  8  p.m., 
stops  at  all  Regular  Stations.  It  will  stop  to  leave  passengers  at  Signal 
Stations,  between  Chicago  and  Kalamazoo,  but  not  east  of  Kalamazoo. 

NIGHT  EXPRESS— Daily,  at  8.80  p.m.,  stops  west  of  Marshall  only  at 
Oalumet,  Lake,  Michigan  City,  Niles,  Decatur,  Paw  Paw,  Kalamazoo,  and 
Battle  Creek.  East  of  Marshall,  it  stops  at  all  the  Regular,  and  if  neces- 
sary, at  Signal  Stations. 

On  Saturday  it  makes  all  the  stops  of  Evening  Express  of  other  days. 

f^ff^  On  Sundays  it  stops  at  all  Regular  Stations  west  of  Marshall. 

B.  N.  BICE,  Oeneral  Superintendent 

Office  qf  Michigan  Central  S.B.  Co.^  ) 
Dbtboit,  Mioh.  ) 


'lN^ 


:Ma^ 


ROAD 


FOLLOWS : 


TBOiT  at  6.30  A.M.,  and 

5  A.M.,  will  stop  only 
[arshall,  Battle  Creek, 
d  Calumet. 

Sundays,  at  6.20  p.m., 
18  Marshall.    "West  of 

ily  at  Tpsilanti,  Ann 
Kalamazoo,  Decatur, 


except  Sundays,  at 

15  A.M.,  stops  only  at 
amazoo,  Battle  Creek) 
ti. 

md  Sundays,  at  8  p.m., 
passengers  at  Signal 
;ast  of  Kalamazoo. 
;st  of  Marshall  only  at 
Paw,  Kalamazoo,  and 
ilegular,  and  if  neces- 

Jxpress  of  other  days, 
v^est  of  Marshall. 
I  Superintendent 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  RAILROAD  CO. 


NORTH   SHORE  LINE   STEAMBOATS. 
DETROIT   AND    BUFFALO. 


The  new  and  magnificent  Steamers  PLTMOUTII  ROCK,  WESTERN 
WORLD,  and  MISSISSIPPI  will  form  this  line  the  ensuing  season,  and 
commence  running  immediately  upon  the  opening  of  navigation,  as  fol- 
lows : 

PLYMOUTH  ROCK P.  J.  HALPH,  Commander, 

Will  leave  Detroit  -Mondays  and  Thursdays. 
"      "      Buffalo— Tuesdays  and  Fridays. 

WESTERN  WORLD J.  S-  RICHARDS,  Commander, 

♦  Will  leave  Detroit— Wednesdays  and  Spturdaya. 

"       "     Buffalo— Mondays  and  Thursdays. 

MISSISSIPPI S.  G.  LANG  LEY,  Commander, 

Will  leave  Detroit— Tuesdays  and  Fridays. 
"      "     Buffalo— Wednesdays  and  Saturdays. 

These  steamers  are  all  new,  of  the  largest  class,  being  about  2,000  tons 
each.  The  commanders  and  officers  are  gentlemen  ol*  great  experience  and 
capability.  They  are  fitted  up  and  flimished  for  the  convenience  of  pas- 
sengers in  a  style  of  comfort  and  luxury  entirely  unequaled,  and  are  in  all 
respects  considered  the  safest  and  most  desirable  steamers  that  sail  upon 
the  Western  waters.  ' 

For  the  transportation  of  Freight,  the  line  will  surpass  any  thing  ever 
before  offered  to  the  public,  having  arrangements  with  parties  between 
Boston  and  New  York,  and  all  points  west  of  Buffalo  to  St.  Louis,  which 
will  enable  them  to  forward  goods  and  merchandise  with  greater  dispatch 
than  has  ever  yet  been  attained. 

For  the  transportation  of  live  stock,  these  steamers  offer  facilities  to 
drovers  which  can  not  be  surpassed  or  equaled. 

fW^  Shippers  of  merchandise  from  the  East  should  ma  .  packages  to 
the  care  of  C.  L.  Sbymoub,  Buffalo;  merchandise  from  the  iVest  should  be 
marked  to  the  care  of  John  Hosmer,  Freight  Agent,  Detroit 

C.  B.  SWAIN,  Agent, 

DETROIT,  MICH. 


S3 


ADVERTI8EMKNTS. 


•  i< 


MICHIGAN  SOUTHERN 


RAILROAD   LIISTE, 

BUFFALO    TO    CHICAGO. 

Toll  do,  Milwanke^,  Racine,  Kenosha,  Waukegpan    Galena, 

Rock  Island,  Bnrtin^ton,  Dnbnqne,  Madison,  Iowa 

City,  St.  Louis,  St.  PanI,  and  all  Places  in 

th^  West  and  Sonth  West. 


The  following  New  Low  Pressure  STEAMERS  form  the  Line  from 
BUFFALO     "TO    TOLEDO, 

CONNECTING  THERE  WITH  THE 

MICHIGAI  SOUTHERN  AND  NORTHERN  INDIANA  RAILROAD. 

ONLY  242  MILES  TO  CHICAGO. 


WESTERN  METROPOLIS I.  T.  Pheatt,  Com'r. 

Leaves  Buffalo  Mondays  and  Thursdays. 

CITY  OF  BUFFALO A.  D.  Pekkins,     " 

Leaves  Buffalo  Tuesdays  and  Fridays. 

SOUTHERN  MICHIGAN  L.  B.  Goldsmith,    « 

Leaves  Buffalo  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays, 
Leaving  Michigan  Southern  Railroad  Docic,  foot  of  Main  Street,  Buffalo, 
every  evening  (Sundays  excepted),  at  9  o'clock,  or  immediately  after  the 
arrival  of  the  Express  Train  from  Boston,  Albany,  and  New  York,  through 
to  Toledo  without  landing,  where  passengers  take  the  Lightning  Express 
Train  for  Chicago,  etc. 

1^~  Passengers,  by  delivering  their  Checks  to  the  Agent  ou  the  Cars, 
can  have  their 

Sa^i^age  Conveydd  t3  tha  Boat  f  ee  of  Charge,  and  Checked 

Ihrough 

At  Toledo  this  Line  of  Steamers  connects  with  the  TOLEDO,  WABASH, 
AND  WESTERN  RAILROAD. 

Passengers  who  desire  to  go  all  the  way  by  Railroad,  can  take  the 
LAKE  SHORE  RAILROAD,  at  Buffalo,  for  Toledo,  or  GREAT  WEST- 
ERN RAILWAY,  at  Suspension  Bridge,  for  Detroit,  where  direct  con- 
nections are  made  with  tlie  MICHIGAN  SOUTHERN  AND  NORTH- 
ERN INDIANA  RAILROAD. 

THROUGH  TICKETS  can  be  purchased  at  all  Railroad  and  Steamboat 
OfiBces  East ;  of  the  Agents  of  the  Company,  John  F.  Porter,  198  Broad- 
way, New  York ;  B.  F.  Fifield,  Detroit;  Geo.  M.  Gray,  Chicago ;  U.  B. 
BncHiE,  foot  of  Main  Street,  Buffalo. 

SAM  BBOWN,  General  Superintendent,  Toledo  0. 
EZRA  DOWNER,  Traveling  Agent. 


^HERN 


IIS^E. 


nkegpan    Galena, 
idison,  Iowa 
l*laces  in 


m  the  Line  ft'om 
[DO, 

UNA  RAlLaOAD. 

0. 


'.  Pheatt,  Com'r. 
lays. 

X  Pekkins,     " 
iy8. 

Goldsmith,    " 
■days. 

Main  Street,  Buffalo, 
mmediately  after  the 
i  New  York,  through 
e  Lightning  Express 

5  Agent  on  the  Cars, 

rge.  and  Checked 

OLEDO,  WABASH, 

Iroad,  can  take  the 
or  GREAT  WE8T- 
t,  where  direct  con- 
RN  AND  NORTH- 

Iroad  and  Steamboat 

Porter,  198  Broad- 

;ay,  Chicago ;  U.  B. 

dent,  Toledo  0. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


LAKE  ONTARIO 

AND  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


THE  AMERICAN  EXPRESS  &  U.  S.  MAIL 

LINES  OP  STEAMBOiTS  PLY  DAILY  BETWEEN 


l^f 


SSIIS! 


Rochester,  Oswego,  Kingston,  S.  Harbor,  CapeTincent, 
Brockville,     Ogdensburgh,    and    Montreal. 


AMERICAN  EXPRESS  LINE. 

Formed  by  the  Steamers  NEW  YORK,  Capt.  Chapman,  and  NORTH- 
ERNER, Capt.  Guilds,  ply  DAILY  between  Toronto,  Lewist-^  ;  Cape 
Vincent,  Brockville,  and  Ogdensburgh.  Leaving  Maitlanr.  Wharf, 
Toronto,  every  morning  (Monday  excepted)  at  7  a.m.  for  Lewiston,  and 
will  leave  the  same  wharf  every  afternoon  (Sundays  excepted)  at  4  p.m., 
and  the  Queen's  Wharf  at  4.80  p.m.,  for  Cape  Vincent,  Brockville,  and 
Ogdensburgh. 

TWEI^TY-OME  HOUflS  TO   IVIOIVTREAL., 

Being  in  advance  of  any  other  Steamboat  Line. 

Taking  this  line,  Passengers  can  bo  certain  of  making  connectioni— 
reaching  Montreal,  New  York,  and  Boston  early  the  following  aflemoom 
and  evening.  

UNITED    STATES    MAIL   LINE. 

Consisting  of  the  Steamers  BAY  STATE,  Capt  Ledyard;  ON- 
TARIO, Capt  Throop;  CATARACT,  Capt.  Estes;  and  NIAGARA, 
Capt.  MoRLEY,  form  a  DAILY  LINE  between  Toronto,  Rochester, 
Oswego,  Sackets  Harbor,  Kingston,  Brockville,  aad  Ogdensburgh. 

RAILROAD  AND  STEAMBOAT  CONNECTIONS. 

Connect  at  Lewiston  with  Cars  for  Niagara  FallH,  Buffalo,  etc.  At 
Toronto  with  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  Ontario,  Simcoe  and  Huron 
Railroad.  At  Charlotte  with  Cars  for  Rochester,  etc.  At  OswTiao  with 
Cars  for  Syracuse,  etc. ;  at  Cape  Vincent  with  the  Waterlown  and  Rome 
Railroad ;  at  Kingston  with  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

At  Ogdensburgh  with  Railroad  Lines,  and  the  Montreal  Daily  Liw>. 
of  Fast  and  Superior  Upper-Cabin  River  Steamers,  consisting  of  the 
JENNY  LIND,  Capt  Moodie  ;  BRITISH  QUEEN,  Capt.  Cameron,  and 
MONTREAL.  Capt  La  Flammb  ;  forming  a  connecting  Daily  Line  to  and 
from  Montreal— passing  the  Rap)ds  by  daylight. 


h 


'.'it 


m 


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'1 

3  Si   ', 


hf'^.U^    I 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


LAKE    ONTARrO 


ROYAL   MAIL  LINE. 

axmnasm.  AR&AxroBMtBxrrs. 
LAKE  ONTARIO  INTERNATIONAL 


STEAMBOAT   COMPANY, 

IN  CONNECTION  WITH  THE 

New  York  Central,  Genesee  Valley  and  Grand 

Trunk  Railroads. 


THE  STEAMER 

MA.PLE    LE^F, 

CAFT.  QEO.  SCHOi'IELD, 

Will  leave  Rochester  daily  (Sundays  oxcepted>,  at  12  o'clocc,  noon,  for 
Goburg  and  Port  Hope,  connecting  at  Coburg  with  the  Orand  Trunk  Sail< 
way,  for 

Bellerille)  Kingston,  Brockrille,  OffdenubnrKh,  IVIot:- 

Ireal,  Quebec,  Portland,  on  the  Eant;  Oiihawa) 

IVhitby,   Toronto,  Collinic^irood,  and 

litrnlford,  on  the  Weeitj 

Will  also,  at  Coburg,  connect  with  the  Coburg  and  Peterboro'  Railroad, 
and  with  a  Line  of  Steamers  for  Toronto  and  Montreal. 

^r  PASSENGERS  TAKEN  AS  LOW  AS  BY  THE  OLD  STEAM- 
BOAT ROUTE,  AND  WITH  MORE  DISPATCH. 

^^^  Passengers  leaving  Rochester  at  12  o'clock,  noon,  will  arrive  at 
Ooburg  at  4  o'clock,  Kingston  at  11  o'clock  same  night,  and  at  Ogdens- 
burgh  and  Montreal  early  next  morning ;  or,  Tickets  can  be  procured  at 
the  OflQce  with  privilege  to  take  Steamer  from  Kingston  to  Montreal,  pass- 
ing all  the  Thousand  Islcmdn  by  daylight. 

RETURNING,  will  leave  Coburg  at  9  o'clock  p.m.,  on  the  arrival  of  the 
Trains  from  Montreal  and  Toronto. 

»-  THE  STEAMER  WILL  CALL  AT  COLBORNE  ON  WEDNES- 
DAY  AND  SATURDAY  EVENIN63,  WEATHER  PERMITTING. 

For  Freight,  or  Passage,  or  other  information,  apply  at  the  CANADA 
STEAMBOAT  OFFICE, 

110  State  Street,  Rochester, 

GEO.  DARLING,  Agt. 

f0P*  The  Oars  will  leave  the  Dep  it,  Rochester,  at  11.50  a.m.,  Railroad 
Time,  to  oonvey  passengers  to  the  Boat. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


LINE. 

kKBXVTS. 

NATIONAL 


PANY, 


E 


ey  and  Grand 


"71 


D, 

12  o'clocic,  noon,  for 
le  Orand  Tnink  Bail< 

eimbiirsh,  ITfot:. 
•t;  Oiihawaj 
»dy  and 

Peterboro'  Eailroad, 
il. 
THE  OLD  STEAM- 

noon,  will  arrive  at 
ight,  and  at  Ogdens- 

can  be  procured  at 
on  to  Montreal,  pass- 
on  the  arrival  of  tbe 

iNE  ON  WEDNES- 
;  PERMITTING. 
>ly  at  the  CANADA 

ochester, 
lRLING,  Agt. 

11.60  A.3I.,  Bailroad 


ONTARIO,  SIMCOE,  AND  HURON 

RAILROAD. 


TORONTO  TO  COLLINGWOOD,  C.   W. 

Trains  will  ran  as  follows  (Sundays  excepted) : 

LEAVE  TORONTO  7.15  a.m.,  MAIL  TRAIN,  stopping  at  all  Regular 
Stations,  and  Flag  Stations  on  signal,  arriving  at  Collingwood  12.20  p.m. 

4  P.M.  ACCOMMODATION  TRAIN,  stopping  as  atove,  and  arriving  at 
Collingwood  at  8.80  p.m. 

LEAVE  COLLINGWOOD  6  A.51 ,  ACCOMMODATION  TRAIN,  stop- 
ping at  all  Regular  Stations,  and  Flag  Stations  on  Signal,  arriving  at 
Toronto  10.20  a.m. 

8.45  P.M.  MAIL  TRAIN,  stopping  as  above,  and  arriving  at  Toronto 
8.4' •  P.M.  

THE   COMPANY'S   STEAMER, 


J.  C.  MORRISON,  Capt.  Chas.  Y.  Bell, 

(LAKK    SIMCOK,) 

Will  commence  her  regular  trips  on  Monday,  May  4th,  leaving  Bkll 
EwART  daily  upon  arrival  of  Mail  Train  from  Toronto,  at  10  o'clock  a.m., 
,  and  touch  at  Lake  Ports  (weather  permitting)  as  follows  : 

At  Hawestone,  11  o'clock  a.m.,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 

At  Obillia,  12.80  p.m..  Daily. 

At  Athbrlt,  1.80  p.m..  Daily,  if  required. 

At  Bbaverton,  2.45  p.m..  Daily. 

At  Jackson's  Point,  4.80  p.m..  Daily, 
And  arrive  at  Bell  Ewart  in  time  for  Evening  Trains  North  and  South. 

^~  The  Steamer  J.  C.  MORRISON  will  leave  Babbib  every  Wednes- 
day, at  7  A.M.,  by  which  passengers  can  make  the  tour  of  the  Lake  and  re- 
turn via  Bell  Ewabt,  by  Evening  Train. 

a.  LEWIS  OBAHT,  Svpr^intendent 

Tobonto,  Jpril  28, 185T.  '^ 


i 


i 


ADVERTISEMENTS, 


m 


ROYAL  MAIL  THROUGH  LINE. 

FOR 

Kingston,  Cobnrg,  Fort  Hope,  Darlington, 
Toronto,  and  Hamilton. 


ONLY  LINE  WITHOUT  TRANSHIPMENT. 


THE  FOLLOWING 

First-Class  Upper-Cabin  Steamers    * 

Compose  this  Line,  viz., 

KINGSTON,  (Iron) Capt.  Kelly. 

BANSHEE "      Howard. 

PASSPORT,  (Iron) «      Harbottle. 

ARABIAN '       Maxwell. 

CHAMPION "      Sinclair. 

MAGNET,  (Iron) , "      Twohy. 

They  were  built  expressly  for  Lake  and  River  Navigation — 
commodious,  staunch,  and  in  every  respect  well  found  with 
every  requirement  for  safety,  and  fitted  and  furnished  with 
every  modern  convenience  and  comfort. 

One  of  these  Steamers  leaves  the  Canal  Basin,  Montreal, 
every  day  (except  Sundays),  at  9  a.m.  and  Lachine  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  12o' clock  m.  train  irom  Montreal,  for  the  above 
and  intermediate  ports,  direct  without  transhipment,  connecting 
as  follows :  at  Hamilton,  with  the  Great  Western  Railway  for 
London,  Chatham,  Windsor,  Detroit,  Chicago,  Galena,  St.  Paul, 
Milwaukee,  etc. ;  at  Toronto,  with  the  Northern  Railroad  for 
Mackinaw,  Green  Bay,  and  all  ports  on  Lake  Michigan ; 
at  Niagara,  with  the  Erie  and  Ontario  Railroad  for  Niagara 
Falls,  Buffalo,  Cleveland,  Toledo,  Columbus,  Cincinnati,  etc. 

To  the  tourist  or  pleasure- seeker  this  line  affords  a  most 
desirable  conveyance— -comfortable,  pleasant,  and  expeditious — 
passing  through  the  delightful  scenery  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Thousand  Islands,  and  aU  the  Kapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  by 
daylight. 

W  Tickets,  or  further  infoi  mation,  cai^  be  procured  from 
0.  F.  MucKLE ;  at  the  hotels ;  on  board  of  the  Steamers ;  or 
at  the  Oflace,  40  McGILL  STREET. 

ALEX.  MILLOY,  Agent. 

Montreal,  May  4,  1857 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


1 


H  LINE.  I  ROYAL  MAIL  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE 

BETWEEN 

MONTREAL  AND  QUEBEC. 


)arlington, 


1. 


SHIPMENT. 


(teamers 


Kelly. 
Howard. 
Harbottle. 
Maxwell. 
Sinclair. 

TWOHY. 

iver  Navigation — 
i  well  found  with 
id  furnished  with 

tasin,  Mowtreal, 
lChine  on  the  ar- 
2AL,  for  the  above 
pment,  connecting 
stern  Railway  for 
Galena,  St.  Paul, 
lern  Kailroad  for 
Lake  Michigan ; 
iroad  for  Niagara 
incinnati,  etc. 
le  affords  a  most 
md  expeditious — 
the  Lake  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  by 

t)e  procured  from 
he  Steamers;  or 

[LLOY,  Agent. 


THE  MAGNIFICENT  STEAlfEES 

JOHN  MUNN A.  Crawford,  Commander. 

Length  312  feet     Cylinder  72  inches. 

QUEBEC A.  M.  Rudolf,  Commander. 

Length  280  feet.    Cylinder  60  inches. 

.  CABIN  FARE  REDDCED  TO  $2  ^ 

Carrying  Passengers  in  connection  with  all  the  popular  lines 
of  travel  from  the  Falls  of  Niagara  to  the*  sublime  scenery 
of  the  River  Saguenay.  The  grandeur  and  variety  of  the 
views  on  the  River  St.  Lawrence  present  unequaled  attrac- 
tions to  Travelers,  and  have  secured  for  this  Route  great  and 
increasing  popularity. 

Leave  Montreal  at  7  p.m.  Leave  Quebec  at  6  p.m.,  daily 
(Sundays  excepted),  arriving  at  an  early  hour  the  following 
morning,  in  time  to  connect  with  the  trains  South,  and  the 
Ottawa  Route  (during  the  season  of  navigation). 

,^*  Usual  Time  Downward,  10  hours — Upward,  12  hours 

H.  E.  SCOTT,  Commissioner  Street,  MontreaL 


THE   STEAMER 


SIR  CHARLES  I(APIER, 

Has  resumed  her  Regular 
Morning  and  Afternoon  Trips 
between  KING  STON  andC  APE 
VINCENT,  connecting  with  the 
Water'  OWN  and  Rome  Rail- 
koad  f  »r  iTetv  York  and  Bos- 
ton;  also  with    the   Grand 

Trunk  Railway  for  Toronto, 
etc^ 

BP*  For  Freight  or  Passage 
apply  to 

GEO.  CREIGHTON,  Master. 


For  Picton  &  Belle?iUe. 


THE  ROYA.L  MAH*  STEAMER 


"  BAY  OF  CtUINTE," 

F.  A.  CARRELL,  Master, 

Will  commence  her  Regular 
Daily  Trips  on  the  Bay  of 
Quinte,  leaving  Kingston 
every  afternoon  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted), at  half-past  3  o'clock, 
and  Belleville  every  moni« 
in^  at  7  o'clock. 


■  '^11 


I; 


m 


lII 


ii^i 


ADVERTISE  MKNTS. 


OTTAWA  MAIL  STEAMERS. 


DAILY    LINE. 


MONTREAL  TO  OTTAWA  CITY  (Bytown). 

ji  coooectloD  ulih  tbe  Montreal  and  Lachlne  and  CarUloo 
and  GrenvUle  Railroads* 


THROUGH   BY   DAYLIGHT 


4TEAMEU  LADY  SIMPSON Capt.  H.  W.  Shepherd, 

LACHINE  TO  CARILLON. 

ITEAMER  PHCENIX Capt^  McLachlin, 

GRENVILLE  TO  OTTAWA  CITY. 

The  Ottawa  Passengers  and  Mails  will  leave  the  Lachine 
iailroad  Depot,  Bonayenture  Street,  by  the  7,15  a.m.  Tram, 
iaily  (Sundays  excepted),  connecting  with  the  Steamer  Lady 
Simpson  at  Lachine,  and  the  Steamer  Phgcnix  at  Grenville. 
Passengers  will  be  landed  at  all  the  principal  places  along  the 
River  (where  the  boats  stop  to  exchange  mails),  and  at  Ottawa 
jiTY  early  the  same  evening 

This  will  be  found  the  cheapest  and  most  agreeable  route  to 
iie  Ottawa  Country.  Tourists  and  pleasure  parties  may  obtain 
PkOturn  Tickets  on  liberal  terms. 

Further  information  may  be  obtained  at  tUe  Railroad  Dep6t, 
tonaventure  Street,  Montreal,  and  on  board  the  Steamer 
Uldy  Simpson,  at  Lachine. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


EAMERS, 


PY  (Bytown). 

chine  and  CarUIoo 

8« 


GHT 


H.  W.  Shepherd, 
Nf. 

f  McLachuw, 
CITY. 

leave  tho  Lachine 
le  7.16  A.M.  Traia, 
the  Steamer  Lady 
isrix  at  Grenyille. 
pal  places  along  the 
Ifl),  and  at  Ottawa 

1  agreeable  route  to 
parties  may  obtain 

'le  Railroad  Dep6t, 
loard  the  Steamer 


VPFER   OTTAWA. 


THE 


Union  Forwarding  Company, 

Hereby  give  notice  that  their  STEAMERS  will  be  prepared,  on 
the  Opening  of  Navigation,  to  carry  Passengers  and  Freights  as 
formerly,  plying  as  follows :  • 

"EMEBALD,"  Capt.  Gumming, 

Will  leave  Aylmer,  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday 
mornines,  at  7  o'clock,  for  all  parts  of  the  Upper  Ottawa, 
connecting  at  the  Chatts,  per  Railroad,  with  the  Steamer  **  Ork- 
gon/*  returning  to  Aylmer  on  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day. 

"OREGON,"  Capt.  Billiard, 

Will  leave  Portage  Du  Fort  every  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and 
Saturday  mornings,  at  7  o'clock,  connecting  with  the  Steamer 
"  Emerald"  for  Aylmer  and  Ottawa  City,  returning  the 
same  evening  to  Portage  Du  Fort,  from  whence  passengorn 
take  Stage  and  Steamer  to  Pembroke  and  intermediate  places. 
These  Steamers  carry  the  Mail,  and  touch  at  all  Stopping- 
Places  en  route,  up  and  down,  between  Aylmer  and  Portagk 
Du  Fort. 

■'  FONTIAC,"  Capt.  Batbun. 

DOWNWARD. — Will  leave  Des  Joachim  on  Mondays  and 
Fridays,  at  6  o'clock  a.m.,  arriving  at  Pembroke  in  time  to 
connect  with  Stage  and  Steamer,  via  Gould's  Line  for  Ottawa. 

UPWARD. — ^Will  leave  Pembroke  same  days,  at  1  o'clock 
p.m.,  arriving  at  Des  Joachim  early  the  same  evening,  touch- 
ing at  all  points  each  way. 

T.  A.  CUMMING,  Ottawa,  ^gent  U.  F.  Com, 


ADVKRT18KMENT8. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


mm 


►k    « 


'    *A 


THE  NEW  AND  BEAUTIFUL  STEAMER 

Mi:iSr2SrEHA.H[A., 

Which  has  just  been  completed,  will  make  her  regular  trips 

from  Caldwell,  the  South  end  of  Lake  George,  to  Ticgn- 

DEROGA,  the  North  end,  commencing  on  the  8tli  day  of  June, 

1857. 

The  Steamer  leaves  Caldwell  (the  Fort  William  IIenry 
Hotel)  at  7  o'clock  a.m.,  and  Ticondehoga  at  4  o'clock  p.m., 
or  immediately  on  arrival  of  the  Boats  from  the  North  on  Lakr 
Champlain. 

Passengers  from  Saratoga  who  desire  to  visit  the  Hotel,  or 
to  go  through  Lake  George,  will  take  the  Saratoga  and 
Whitehall  Cars  at  Saratoga  Spiiixgb,  and  stop  at  Moreau 
(the  second  Station  from  Saratoga),  18  miles,  or  at  Fort  Ed- 
ward (the  third  Station  therefrom,  and  half  a  mile  from 
Moreau).  They  will  there  find  Coaches  waiting  on  the  arrival 
of  all  the  trains  to  take  them  to  the  Lake,  a  beautiful  and 
romantic  ride  of  14  miles  (2  hours)  on  a  plank  road. 

Travelers  going  South  on  Lake  Champlain  will  stop  at 
Ticonderoga.  The  MINNEHAHA  will  then  take  them  through 
Lake  George  to  Caldwell,  from  which  place  they  can  go  by 
Stage  and  the  Whitehall  and  Saratoga  Railroad  to  Saratoga 
Springs. 

The  new  Steamer  is  admitted  to  be  the  best  and  most  com- 
fortable boat  ever  built  on  that  Lake.  She  is  built  and  fitted 
up  regardless  of  expense,  safety  being  the  principal  object 
sought  after. 

The  Boiler  and  Furnace  are  placed  in  compartments  encased 
in  iron,  and  are  entirely  fire-proof. 

^'  The  Life-Saving  Apparatus  is  of  the  most  perfect  and 
improved  kind. 

By  taking  the  Hudson  River  Railroad  Cars  in  the  City  of 
New  York  at  6  a.m.,  passengers  can  arrive  at  the  Lake  at 
abont  4  p.m. 


)RGE. 


STEAMER 


ke  her  regular  trips 
:  George,  to  Ticoy. 
the  8  til  day  of  June, 


RT  WiLLTAM  IIeNRY 

GA  at  4  o'clock  P.M., 
I  the  North  on  Lake 

)  visit  the  Hotel,  or 
the  Saratoga  and 
md  stop  at  Moreau 
les,  or  at  Fort  Ed- 
i  half  a  mile  from 
liting  on  the  arrival 
ke,  a  beautiful  and 
mk  road. 

[PLAIN  will  stop  at 
n  take  them  throut^h 
)lace  they  can  go  by 
liroad  to  Saratoga 

best  and  most  com- 
J  is  built  and  fitted 
he  principal  object 

npartments  encased 

e  most  perfect  and 

7ars  in  the  City  of 
ive  at  the  Lake  at 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


LAKE   CHAMPLAIN. 


jti     .ii.,-„,-i 

THE  NEW  AND  SPLENDID  STEAMERS 

OF   THE 

^Ijamplitiit  Cranspffrtation  Coinpnn, 

VIZ., 

AMERICA Capt.  Flagg, 

CANAr  1 ♦'     Davis, 

UNITED   STATE3 •'     Anderson, 

Will  make  Two  Daily  Lines  between  Whitehall  and  House's 
Point  (Sundays  excepted). 

Leave  Whitehall  at  10  a.m.  and  10  p.m.,  on  arrival  of  the 
Morning  and  Evening  Trains  from  the  South  and  West ;  arrive 
at  Burlington  at  4  p.m.  and  4  a.m.  ,  and  at  Plattsburgh  and 
Rouse's  Point,  mornings  and  evenings,  in  time  to  connect  with 
Trains  for  Montreal  and  OoDENSBtiRGH. 

Passengers  who  leave  New  York  by  the  Evening  Boat  will 
arrive  at  Montreal  and  Ogdensburgh  the  next  evening.  Those 
who  leave  New  York  by  the  12  m.  Train,  Hudson  River  Railroad, 
will  arrive  at  Whitehall  at  10  p.m.,  and  Montreal  next  morning 
fit  9  o'clock,  and  Ogdensburgh  at  1  o'clock  p.m. 

GOING  SOUTH — Leave  Rouse's  Point  every  morning  nnd 
evening,  on  arrival  of  the  Trains  from  Montreal  and  Ogdens- 
burgh, and  via  Plattsburgh,  Burlington,  and  Ticonderoga,  ar- 
rive at  Whitehall  at  6  a.m.  and  4  p.m.,  connecting  with  Trains 
for  the  South  and  West. 

THE  NEW  AND  BEAUTIFUL  STEAMER 
MONTREAL Capt.  Lot  Chamberlain, 

Will  make  Daily  Trips  between  Burlington  and  St.  Albans,  vl'i 
Port  Kent,  Port  Jackson,  Plattsburgh,  and  the  Islands. 

^SS*  These  Boats  are  not  excelled,  either  in  speed,  nQatne»«», 
or  comfort,  by  any  other  Boats  afloat. 


m 


n^ 


« « 


W>' 


15.  •    J* 


!'i-; 


'"^ 


Ji^ 


1.,  *»    i 


ft 


>•); 


'if 


^ 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


FOR 


RIVER    SAOTTSNAT, 

MURRAY  BAY,  RIVER  DU  LOUP, 

AND 

KAKOVNA. 


THE  FIKST-CLASS  SEA-GOING  STEAMER 


"  S  A.  a  TJ  E  ]sr  A.  Y/' 

R.  SimARD,  Commander, 

Will  make  an  Excursion  up  the  renowned  Biver  Saguenay  O^CE  A 
WEEK,  during  Ihe  months  of  JULY  and  AUGUST,  leaving  Quebec 
every 

WEDNESDAY    MORNING 

AT  EIGHT  O'CLOCK, 

Calling  on  the  way  at  Elver  Quelle,  Murray  Bay,  and  Elver  du  Loup,  and 
getting  back  on  the  Friday  afternoon. 
Leaving  Quebec,  also,  every 

SATURDAY    MORNINQ 

AT  EIGHT  O'CLOCK, 

On  an  Excursion  as  far  ai«  Eiver  du  Loup,  calling  at  Biver  Ouelle  and 
Murray  Boy,  and  getting  back  the  following  Monday  afternoon. 

The  steamer  SAGUENAY,  having  been  built  expressly  for  this  route, 
Is  furnished  and  Utted  out  accordingly. 

^^  Any  further  information  required  can  be  oDtained  by  applying  at 
the  Office  of 

JOHN    LAIKD, 

Commission,  Forwarding,  and  Insurance  Agent, 
ST.  LAWKENCE  CHAMBERS,  ST.  PETER  STEEET, 

QUEBEC 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


AY, 

)U  LOUP, 


lEAMER 


3 


der, 

Saguenay  O^CE  A 
ST,  leaving  Quebec 

nriNG 

Biver  da  Loup,  and 

INd 

It  Elver  Ouelle  and 

afternoon. 

>res8ly  for  this  route, 

ined  by  applying  nl 

ice  Agent, 
SR  STEEET, 
QUEBEC 


CHAMPLAIN  AND  ST.  LAWRENCE 

RAILROAD. 


LENGTH,  44  MILES. 


EAEE,  $2. 


STEAM  FERRY-BOATS  leave  Montreal,  morning  and 
evening,  for  St.  Lambert,  two  miles,  where  commences  the 
Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence  Railroad,  running  to  Sr. 
John's,  20  miles;  tlience  to  Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.,  i}3  miles 
farther,  connecting  with  the  Vermont  and  Canada  Railroady 
the  JS^orthern  Railroad  of  New  York,  and  Steamers  running 
on  Lake  Champlain,  forming  a  speedy  and  direct  communi- 
cation with  Burlington,  Boston,  and  New  York. 

EXPRESS  TRAINS  leave  Montreal  at  6  a.m.  and  3 
P.M.  Leave  Rousk's  Point  at  7.30  a.m.  and  7.40  p.m.,  for 
Montreal,  etc. 

0F*  For  Pleasure  Travelers  this  is  the  most  direct  and 
pleasant  route  to  enter  Canada  from  the  East  or  South. 


ifi 


W!^M\^ 


mf     V  f^fl 


^^m 


^1 


CKESTET,    FISSE   &   CO.' 

Money,  Valuables,  ami  all  kinds  of  Freight,  forwarded  to  p.n<3 
from  all  parts  of  the  country. 

^''  All  Orders  for  goods  from  the  Cities  promptly  at- 
tended to.    Office, 

No.  3  SEYMOUR'S  BLOCK 

Ogdensburoh,  N.  V. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


iffcT 


■»> 


if* 


H/f-' 


,;** 


GRAND  TRUNK  RAILWAY 

OF    CANADA. 


This  Great  Railway  Lin  e  diverges  from  Montreal,  and  runs 
to  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  and  Portland, 
Me.,  on  the  Southeast;  to  Quebec  and  St.  Thomas  on  the 
Northeast;  and  Southwest  to  Kingston,  Toronto,  etc.,  etc., 
afifordii]%  facilities  to  Pleasure  Travelers  and  Emigrants  un- 
rivaled by  any  other  Railroad  on  the  Continent  of  America; 
forming  altogether  a  direct  and  speedy  through-line  of  travel 
from  the  Sea-board  to  the  great  Lakes  and  Canada  West. 


MAIN  LINE  AND  BRANCHES 

1.  Montreal  and  Portland  Districts,  292  miles  in  length,  runs 
through  Canada  East,  Vermont,  and  New  Hampshire,  to 
Portland,  Me. 

2.  Quebec  and  Richmond  Districts,  168  miles  in  length;  runs 
from  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

8.  St.  Thomas  Branch  is  finished  49  miles  below  Quebec,  and 
will  extend  to  Troifa  Pistoles,  C.  E.,  100  miles  farther. 

4.  Montreal  and  Toronto  District,  333  miles  in  length,  runs 
on  the  west  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River  and  Lake  Ontario 
to  Toronto. 

6.  Toronto  and  Port  Sarnia  District  is  finished  88  miles,  to 
Stratford,  C.  W.,  and  will  be  extended  to  Port  Sarnia,  at  the 
foot  of  LaJse  Huron,  100  miles  farther. 

IdF*  For  Through  Tables  of  Distances,  see  pages  823  and 
324.  

PASSENGER  TRAINS  leave  Montreal  Morning  and 
Afternoon,  during  the  Summer  months,  for  Portland,  Que- 
bec, Toronto,  etc.,  connecting  with  Steamers  and  Railroad 
Lines  running  to  every  part  of  Canada  and  the  United  States. 

&"  For  further  particulars  see  DisturnclPs  Railway  and 
Steamship  Guide. 


AILWAY 


i 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Montreal,  and  runs 
hire,  and  Portland, 
St.  Thomas  on  the 
Toronto,  etc.,  etc., 
and  Emigrants  un- 
mtinent  of  America; 
[irough-line  of  travel 
I  Canada  West. 

[CUES 

miles  in  length,  runs 
New  HamjShire,  to 

miles  in  length;  runs 

ss  below  Quebec,  and 
miles  farther. 

niles  in  length,  runs 
^er  and  Lake  Ontario 

)  finished  88  miles,  to 
,0  Port  Sarnia,  at  the 

e:s,  see  pages  823  and 


[lEAii  Morning  and 
or  Portland,  Que- 
jamers  and  Railroad 
id  the  United  States. 

irnclPs  Railway  and 


NEW  ENGLAND 


ttteal  JTife  Insurance  fe, 

BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS. 


ESTABLISHED    1843. 


BEANCH  OFFICE  IN  l^fETROPOLITAN  BANK  BUILDING,  110 
BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


CAPITAL  and  Accumulation  PREMIUMS  to  meet  Losses,  over  ONE 
MILLION,  after  paying,  among  all  holding  Policies,  In  Cash  (not  in 
Sc-ip)  Dividends  amounting  to  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  EIGHTY-ONE 
THOUSAND  DOLLARS. 

The  Surplus  is  divided  among  all  the  members  IN  CASH,  thus  afford- 
ing a  good  and  certain  rate  of  interest  upon  the  outlay  of  premiums,  and 
avoiding  the  largo  and  unnecessary  accumulations  of  unpaid  dividends 
of  uncertain  tendency  and  erroneously  called  capital. 

One  half  of  the  first  five  annual  premiums  on  lUe-poIicies  loaned  to  in- 
surers if  desired ;  the  remaining  half  may  be  paid  quarterly. 

The  premiums  are  as  low  as  those  of  any  reliable  company. 

THIS  IS  THE  OLDEST  AMERICAN  MUTUAL  LIFE  INSUR- 
ANCE COMPANY,  AND  ONE  OP  THE  MOST  SUCCESSFUL. 

Insurance  may  be  effected  for  the  benefit  of  married  women,  beyond  the 
reach  of  their  husband's  creditors.  Creditors  may  insure  the  life  of  debtors. 

Blank  form  of  application  for  insurance,  or  the  Company's  pamphlet, 
containing  the  Charter,  Rules,  and  Regulations,  also  the  Annual  Reports 
showing  the  condition  of  the  Company,  will  be  furnished  gratis. 

WILLARD  PHILLIPS,  President 


Charles  P.  Curtis, 
Thomas  A.  Dexter, 
Sewell  Tappan, 
A.  W.  Thaxter,  Jr., 
B.  F. 


DIRECTORS. 

Charles  Hubbard, 
Marshall  P.  Wilder. 
William  B.  Reynolds, 
Geo.  11.  Folger. 

STEVENS,  Secretary. 


REFERENCES  IN  NEW  YORK: 

Rev.  S.  H.  Tyng,  D.D.,  A.  Oakey  Hall,  District  Attorney  of  New  York 
city,  R.  Warren  Weston  (Goodhue  &  Co.),  Wm.  W.  Stone  (Lawrence, 
Stone  A  Co.),  William  G.  Lambert  (A.  &  A.  Lawrence  &  Co.>,  B.  J.  How- 
land,  Rev.  G.  L.  Prentiss,  Henry  L.  Plerson,  D.  Randolph  Martin,  Presi- 
dent Ocean  Bank,  Wm.  L.  King  (Naylor  &  Co.),  Rev.  S.  8.  Cutting,  Ellery 
A  Gibbons,  Freeman  Ihmt  (l/unVs  J/a/7a«t/w),  Samuel  B.  Buggies,  and 
Rev.  R.  8.  Storrs,  D.D.,  of  Brooklyn. 

JOHN  HOPPER, 
Agent  and  Attorney  for  the  Company, 
110  Broadway,  New  YorV 


I* 

fev'l 


Mri" 


J.  DISTURNELl, 

PUBLISHER 

AND 

DEALER  IN 


ixp,  imk-^flolis, 


STATISTICAL  WORKS,  ETC. 
No.  16  BEEKMAN  ST., 


NEW   YORK. 


TRADE  I.I8T  OF  IflAPS,  OUIDE-BOOKS,  Etc. 

TOWNSHIP  MAP  OF  TEE  STATE  OP  NEW  TOBK;  showing  all 
the  Canals,  Bailroads,  etc.    Price,  pocket  form,  50  cents. 

COUNTY  MAPS  OP  THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK.  Revised  edi- 
tion.    In  sheets,  pocket  form,  and  mounted. 

MAP  OF  THE  CITY  OF  NEW  YORK  AND  VICINITY.  Price, 
pocket  form,  50  cents. 

RAILROAD  MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  AND  CANADA. 
Price,  pocket  form,  *1 ;  mounted,  $2. 

MAP  OP  THE  UNITED  STATES  AND  C\NADA.  Small  size. 
Price,  pocket  form,  87*  cents. 

MAP  OF  THE  NORTHERN  AND  EASTERN  STATES,  AND  CAN- 
ADA.   Price,  pocket  form,  87^  cents. 

MAP  OF  THE  HUDSON  RIVER,  with  Guide.  Price,  pocket  form,  25  cts. 

MAP  OF  THE  REPUBLIC  OP  MEXICO.  Price,  pocket  form,  |1  25: 
mounted,  !^2  50. 

MAP  OF  CALIFORNIA,  OREGON.  NEW  MEXICO,  ETC.     Price, 

Jocket  form,  75  cents. 
ILWAY  AND  STEAMSHIP  GUIDE  FOR  1857,  with  Map  of  the 
United  States  and  Canada.    Price  25  cents. 
SPRINGS,   WATERFALLS,   SEA-BATHING   RESORTS,   etc.,   witb 

Maps  and  Illustrations.    Price  50  cents. 
A  TRIP  THROUGH   THE  LAKES  OF  NORTH  AMERICA;  Em 
bracing  a  Description  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  etc.,  together  witlj 
the  Principal  Places  on  its  Banks,  from  its  Source  to  its  Mouth.    Witli 
14  Maps  and  Illustrations.    Price  $1  50. 

Smith's  Hand-Book  and  Maps  for  Travelers  and  Emigrants. 
ILLUSTRATED  HAND-BOOK  FOR  TRAVELERS  THROUGH  THE 

UNITED  STATES.    Giving  a  Description  of  every  State,  Railroad 

Route,  etc.    By  J.  Calvin  Smith.    Price,  with  Colored  Map,  $1. 
SMITH'S  NEW  MAP  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES.  Engraved  on  Steel. 

Price,  pocket  form,  50  cents. 
MAP  OP  NEW  ENGLAND,  NEW  YORK,  AND  CANADA.    Engraved 

on  Steel,  and  highly  Embellished.    Price,  pocket  form,  75  centa. 


mmii, 

^ISHER 

JlSD 

.LEB  IN 

IL  WORKS,  ETC. 
EKMAN  ST., 

7  tore:. 


-BOOKS,  Btc. 

•  TOBK ;  showing  all 

[)  cents. 

YORK.    Eevised  edl- 

1  VICINITY.     Price, 

ES   AND   CANADA. 

\NADA.     Small  bLec. 

STATES,  AND  CAN- 

Ice,  pocket  form,  25  cts. 
ice,  pocket  form,  $1 25: 

EXICO,  ETC.     Price, 

185T,  with  Map  of  the 

EESOETS,  etc.,  with 

TH  AMERICA;  Em 
roiE,  etc.,  together  with 
rce  to  its  Mouth.    W;tu 

srs  and  Emigrants. 
EB8  THROUGH  THE 
'  every  State,  Railroad 
)lored  Map,  f  1. 
JLS.  Engraved  on  Steel. 

)  CANADA.    Engraved 
5t  form,  76  cents. 


